Singeing of Fabric

Singeing of Fabric: Objectives, Flowchart, Methods and Machines
What is Singeing?
Singeing is a part of the pretreatment processes carried out in textile

processing, and is usually the first step carried out after weaving. It is
a process of passing an open-width fabric over a gas flame or hot
plate at such a distance and speed that it burns only the protruding
fibers but does not damage the main fabric. The main objective of the
singeing process is to produce a clean fabric surface and
reduce fabric pilling tendency by removing the protruding fibers
from the fabric surface. In singeing process the surface of yarn or
fabric in order to improve the luster and smoothness of the material.
The ‘fuzz’, as the protruding fibers also tends to scatter incident light
on the yarn or fabric surface and contributes to a dull appearance of
the textile material. Removal of ‘fuzz’ results in a smoother and more
uniform surface that reflects more light and therefore gives a brighter
appearance.
Objectives of Singeing:
1. Burning of projecting fibers from yarn/fabric surface.

2. Fabric/yarn surface become smooth, even and clean.
3. To develop maximum luster in the textile materials.
4. Help to create smart design by printing.
5. Save from uneven dyeing and printing.
6. To make the textile materials suitable for subsequent next
process.
Flow Chart of Singeing Process:
Batch
↓
Pre –Brushing
↓
Gas-singeing
↓
Post-Brushing
↓
Padding
↓
Squeezer
↓
Batching
Different Methods of Singeing:

The natural fabrics are usually singed in grey form as there can be
burned ashes and some sort of yellowing on the fabric which are
cleared in the subsequent processes. On the other hand, synthetic
fibers and their blends are to be singed after dyeing, otherwise
molten amorphous beads take up more dyes making dark spots.
Polyester melts at higher temperature and requires a powerful flame.
There are various methods of singeing:
1. Hot plate singeing

2. Hot rotary cylinder or roller singeing
3. Gas flame singeing
Different singing positions may be used for different fabrics in order

to attain different intensity of singeing.
Main singeing positions are: singeing
 onto free guided rollers;

 singeing onto water-cooled rollers
 tangential singeing.
The main parameters of gas flame singeing includes
 flame intensity,
 fabric speed over the flame,
 singeing position (or angle between the fabric and the flame),
 distance between the fabric and the flame, and width of the
flame.
You may also like: Different Types of Singeing Problems,

Causes and Their Solutions
The commonly used methods to assess the singeing efficiency include

observation of fabric surface with magnifying glass or stereo
microscope, and fabric pilling test. A harsher fabric hand-feel may
also be an indication of over-singeing. Commonly
encountered problems in singeing operations include incomplete
singeing, uneven singeing along the fabric length, uneven singeing
along the fabric width, horizontal / width-way singeing stripes,
vertical / length-way singeing stripes, over-singeing or thermal
damage to fabric, and formation of molten fiber beads in synthetic or
blended fabrics.
Different Types of Singeing Machine:

There are three different types of singeing machine:
1. Hot plate singeing machine:
Advantages:
 Hot plate singeing machine is suitable for back filling finishing

process as the fiber ends in the interstices are not removed.
Disadvantages:
 Fiber ends in the interstices of warp and weft are not singed.
 Produces an undesirable fabric luster due to the frictional contact
with the hot plate.
 Causes uneven singeing due to difficulty in maintaining uniform
plate temperature.
2. Roller singeing machine:
Advantages:
 Roller singeing machine is suitable for back filling finishing

process as the fiber ends in the interstices are not removed.
 The uneven singeing takes place to a lesser extent in roller
singeing.
Disadvantages:
 Fiber ends in the interstices of warp and weft are not singed.
 Produces an undesirable fabric luster due to the frictional contact
with the hot plate.
 Causes uneven singeing due to difficulty in maintaining uniform
plate temperature.
3. Gas singeing machine:

Advantages:
 Both sides of the cloth are singed simultaneously.

 Uniform singeing of the cloth is obtained.
 There is no question of unwanted cloth sheen as there is no
contact with any metal surface as in the case of the other singeing
machines such as the roller and hot plate singeing machine.
 Fibers in the interstices between the warp and weft threads are
also burn effectively. This is not entirely possible in the case of
other singeing machines.
 Different varieties of fabric can be singed.
Disadvantages:
 The major disadvantage of gas-singeing is obviously that there is a

great risk of fire, if proper care is not taken on this count.
However, any risk of fire can be avoided completely if,
 The flame is adjusted to be at its optimum size.
 Careful monitoring of the singeing process is carried out.
 The necessary fire-fighting equipment is available close at hand.
 The operators at the machine are properly trained to run the
singeing machine and to use the fire-fighting equipment in an
emergency.
Temperature of fabric in singeing chamber: 80°C -90°C

Fig: Singeing burner and its position
Procedure:
1. Cloth is withdrawn from the batch and passed through the guide
rollers to the pre-brush roller.
2. And passed through the guiders to the J-scray.
3. Again with the help of guiders and guide rollers it is passed to the
singeing machine.
4. The guide rollers then take the fabric to the post-brushing roller,
from where it is taken to the padding unit if other route is to be
taken.
5. At the end fabric is taken to the winding unit through the
squeezer by the help of mangle rollers.
Service and Maintenance of Singeing Machine:
1. Ensure the feed fabric before brushing is always bone dry.

2. Clean pre-brush bottom SS ducts every day to maintain constant
efficiency of brushing.
3. In the Cyclone Dust Collector, change the plastic collector bag
once it is filled up to 80% of its capacity.
4. Clean burner slit with cleaning gauge before beginning the
singeing process everyday with machine in cleaning mode.
5. Ensure the ramp bodies mounted on burner should be aligned
properly (straight). There should not be any gap between two
adjacent ramp bodies.
6. Ensure while aligning ramp bodies, the edges should be properly
matched.
7. When the machine is in cleaning mode, make sure the air pressure
should be 20 mbar.
8. Do not clean the ramp bodies with compressed air.
9. Always feed dry compressed air to the machine for proper
functioning of pneumatic system for burner.
10. Maintain cooling water pressure
11. Maintain gas pressure at 1 bar (before regulator cum shut off
valve).
12. Always feed dry LPG or CNG to the machine to avoid fluctuation.
13. Always feed ambient temperature (30-35 degree) water to the
water cooled guide rollers to avoid sticking of fluff to the roller.
14. Pre washer should be thoroughly cleaned every day.
15. Ensure proper cleaning of indirect heating coil in desizing tank
to avoid unevendyeing.
16. The bottom rollers in desizing tank should be thoroughly cleaned
every day to increase life of spherical carbon bearing.
17. Always use oil cups suggested by Osthoff on squeezer rollers to
increase life of bearings
Different Types of Singeing Problems, Causes and
Their Solutions
Singeing:
Singeing is the process of burning of the fiber hairs projecting through the fabric surface.
It is done to obtain a uniform and smooth fabric surface by removing hairiness. To ensure
uniform optical reflectance throughout the fabric surface in subsequent fabric wet
processing.
The natural fabrics are usually singed in grey form as there can be
burned ashes and some sort of yellowing on the fabric which are
cleared in the subsequent processes. On the other hand, synthetic
fibers and their blends are to be singed after dyeing, otherwise
molten amorphous beads take up more dyes making dark spots.
Polyester melts at higher temperature and requires a powerful flame.
There are various methods of singeing:
1. Plate singeing machine

2. Rotary cylinder or roller singeing machine
3. Gas singeing machine.
The singeing is carried out in yarn or fabric form. In this article I will
discuss different types of singeing problems, causes and their
solutions.
Fi
g: Problems of singeing
Different types of singeing problems, causes and their
solutions
Singeing Problems Possible Causes Solutions
1. Too low flame intensity.

1. Optimum flame intensity.
2. Too fast fabric speed.
2. Optimum fabric speed.
3. Too far distance between
In complete singeing 3. Optimum distance between
Two burners.
the fabric and the burner.
4. In appropriate singeing
4. Optimum singeing position.
Position (not severe enough).
5. No excess moisture in the
5. Too much moisture in the
fabric incoming for singeing.
Fabric incoming for singeing.
1. Non-uniform moisture
1. Uniform moisture content
content across the fabric
Across the fabric width.
Width.
Uneven singeing (Width ways) 2. Uniform flame intensity
2. Non-uniform flame intensity
Across the fabric width.
across the fabric Width.
3. Uniform distance between
3. Uneven distance between the
the burner and the fabric.
burner and the fabric.
1. Non-uniform moisture
1. Uniform moisture content
Content along the fabric
along the fabric length.
length.
2. Uniform flame intensity
2. Non-uniform flame intensity
Along the fabric length.
Uneven singeing (Lengthways) along the fabric Length.
3. Uniform fabric speed During
3. Change in fabric speed During
singeing.
singeing.
4. Uniform distance between
4. Change in the distance
the fabric and the burner
between the fabric and the
along the length.
Burner along the length.
1. Singeing and Desizing Process in Textile Industry

Singeing and Desizing Process in Textile Industry
Rana Sohel
Executive Engineer
Sunman Textile Mills Ltd. Chittagong
Email: [email protected]
Objectives of Singeing and Desizing:

The objectives of singeing operation is to pass the fabric from the
burners of the Osthoff singeing machine so that the hairiness of the
fabric is burn out and smooth fabric with minimum pilling is obtained.
From the desizing process the main objective is to obtain the fabric
specially cotton fabric free of sizes so that the penetration of the
dyeing, printing and finishing chemicals made possible for best
quality product.
Fig:
Fabric singeing process Fig: Desizing

Process
Scope:
The overall the activities carried out on fabrics for which singeing and
desizing is prescribed and to get the fabric as per requirement of the
International Standards.
Procedure:
Preparation of the Recipe:
General recipe:
Desizing Chemical: 3.33 gm/L
Wetting agent / Soap: 2gm/L
Acid: 0.5 gm/L
Singeing and Desizing Operation:
 All the chemicals are prepared on gram per litre (gpl) basis.
 Instruct the workers to wear PPEs as per requirement.
 Weigh all the chemicals according to the Receipe Khata as written
by the production officer or department Manager for specific
quality of the fabric
 Add all the chemicals by calculation as per instructions of the
production officer to the stock tank.
 Now transfer the desizing chemicals to the running tank for
desizing operation.
 Check the pH of the desizing bath, it should be 5-6 for proper
desizing.
Pre-Running Mode:
 Prepare the rout card for the program number and it should
always accompanied by the lot number during all processing
operations.
 Make arrangements to load the fabric on the Singeing / Desizing
Machine and at the exit the Batcher.
 Tight all the compensators and make sure that the fabric is not
loose in desizing chamber.
 Check the chemical stock tank, it should be filled up to the
optimum level.
 Heat up the desizing chamber as per requirement of the quality of
the fabric.
 Start the burning chamber and make sure that the flame intensity
is up to the level as per instructions of the production officer for
each quality.
Running Mode:
Now start the singeing / desizing machine with the following
procedure!
 Press the squeezing button to ready for operation the sqeezers.

 Once squeezing OK set the flame intensity and the speed of the
machine.
 Start the machine.
 Make sure that the fabric is picking up desizing chemicals at an
optimum level.
 Once the batcher is complete, take it out of the winder and install
it on the batching stations and cover it with blue polythene sheet.
 Start rotation of the batcher.
 The rotation time is given as per instructions of the production
officer and it should not be less than 8 hours for complete reaction
between the desizer and the fabric impurities.
 Make sure that the rotation will not stop at any stage because it
will create unevenness in the fabric and it will make the quality of
the fabric inferior.
Quality Control:
 Inform the quality control department for the running lot number
and program number.
 Q.C. personnel will collect the sample and check the quality
meters.i.e. pilling test, tegewa scale rating. pH of the fabric and
GSM etc. to ensure the best quality.
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1. What is Elastic Fabric | Pretreatment of Elastic Fabric
Study on Different Chemical Finished Treatment on
Knitted Fabric
May 6, 2021 by Mazharul Islam Kiron
Study on Different Chemical Finished Treatment on

Knitted Fabric
Raduan Hasan1
Md. Ruhul Amin & Md. Masud Rana
Department of Textile Engineering
Northern University Bangladesh
Email: [email protected]
Abstract
In this study, the effect of chemical treatment on knitted fabric was
observed. The research works on that Chemical treatment of cotton
cellulose without changing their fibrous form is a common practice in
the textile industry. However, some change is observed due to
chemical finishing. In this paper, cotton knitted fabrics are selected
and treated with different softener and others chemicals. For the
reason of use of different chemical that the shade changes no
occurred, the GSM change slightly occurred and overall, the fastness
was good for all type of chemical.
Chapter 1
Introduction
1.1 Introduction
Chemical finishing can be defined as the use of chemicals to achieve
a desired fabric property. Chemical finishing, also referred to as ‘wet’
finishing, includes processes that change the chemical composition of
the fabrics that they are applied to. In other words, an elemental
analysis of a fabric treated with a chemical finish will be different
from the same analysis done prior to the finishing[1].
Typically, chemical finishing takes place after coloration (dyeing or

printing) but before fabrics are made into garments or other textile
articles. However, many chemical finishes can also be successfully
applied to yarns or garments.
Chemical finishes can be durable, i.e. undergo repeated launderings

or dry cleanings without losing effectiveness, or non-durable, i.e.
intended when only temporary properties are needed or when the
finished textile typically is not washed or dry cleaned, for example
some technical textiles. In nearly all cases, the chemical finish is a
solution or emulsion of the active chemical in water. Use of organic
solvents to apply chemical finishes is restricted to special applications
owing to the expense and the real or possible toxicity and
flammability of the solvents employed.
The actual method of finish application depends on the particular

chemicals and fabrics involved and the machinery available.
Chemicals that have strong affinities for fiber surfaces can be applied
in batch processes by exhaustion in dyeing machines, usually after
the dyeing process has been completed. Examples of these exhaust
applied finishes include softeners, ultraviolet protection agents and
some soil-release finishes. Chemicals that do not have an affinity for
fibers are applied by a variety of continuous processes that involve
either immersing the textile in a solution of the finishing chemical or
applying the finishing solution to the fabric by some mechanical
means.
To soften the knitted goods, softening is done by using softening
agents. Because it is tubular form, normally exhaust method is applied
using winch machine softeners like anionic, nonionic, cationic and
reactive softeners may be used. Reactive softeners produce
permanent softening effect. Silicone emulsion is also used as
softening agent for knitted goods [2].
Chemical Finishing involves applying chemicals to the fabric that may

be dissolved or suspended in a liquid medium such as water.
1.2 Objectives of the Thesis
 To know the effects of different chemical finished treatment on

knitted fabric.
 How to change of shade due to different chemical treatment on
knitted fabric.
 To know the finishing treatment process.
1.3 Work Outline
Collection of Dyeing fabric
Normal Wash (Wash by detergent)
Stenter
Compactor
↓
GSM Test
Preparation for fastness properties
Color fastness Test (Wash, Perspiration, Rubbing)
Fatness Grading
Result
Chapter 2
Literature Review
2.1 Literature Review

Chemical finishing of textiles is the process where we enhance the
value of the product by adding some incentives to it. The world
market place is continuously changing and so is demand of people
changing. Every person desire for some change.i.e. something new &
unique. The successful effective implementation of change has to be
done to in the market. We by the medium of this paper have made an
earnest attempt to present you a detailed comprehensive analysis
done by chemical finishing and which has busted this industry with
exuberant value added finish with the incorporation of different scents
into fabrics, leading to the production of scented fabrics and the
psychology of acceptance of synthetic scents in textile goods.
Chapter 3
Materials and Methods
3.1 Materials
Following materials are used for this research:
 Fabric
 Chemicals
Specification of Fabric
 Fabric Types: Knit Single jersey (Dyed fabric)

 Composition: 100% Cotton
 GSM: 160
3.2 Chemicals
Table 3.1: Chemicals
Auxiliaries Name Supplier Name Country
Hydrophilic Softner Austex Germany
White Softner Austex Germany
Silicon Softner Austex Germany
Fixign Agent Austex Germany
Color Sofrner Austex Germany
Solusoft R MW liq Austex Germany

Siligen R SIH liq Huntsman Germany
Solusoft R ECO liq Austex Germany
Solusoft NUP liq Huntsman Germany
Sandofix EC-(Fixing agent) Huntsman Germany
3.3 Apparatus
 Beaker
 Stirrer
 Conical Flux
 Measuring Cylinder
 pH Meter
 Electric Balance
 Scissor
 Thermometer
 Padding Mangle
 Shaker Bath
 Stenter Machine
 Curing Machin
3.4 Hydrophilic Softener Recipe

Table 3.2: Hydrophilic Softener Recipe
Name of Chemicals Quantity (g/l)
Hydrophilic Softener Recipe 10 – 20 g/l

Temperature 140-150oC
M/c Speed 30 – 40
Pader Passer 4/4
Time 35 m/g
Working Procedure
1. Hydrophilic softener is a compound of organic polysiloxane and

polymer which is for soft finishing of natural fibers such as cotton,
hemp, silk, wool, and human hair. It also deals with polyester,
nylon, and other synthetic fibers.
2. Hydrophilic softeners are macro molecule comprised of a poly
backbone of alternating silicon oxygen atoms with of group
attached to silicon.
3. Hydrophilic softener softening capability comes from the
hydrophilic backbones flexibility and its freedom of rotation along
the (si-o) bonds.
3.5 White Softener Recipe

Table 3.3: White Softener Recipe.
White Softener 10 – 15 g/l
M/c Speed 30 – 40
Pader Passer 2/4
Time 35 m/g
3.6 Silicon Softener Recipe

Table 3.4: Silicon Softener Recipe
Silicon Softner 2.5 g/l
M/c Speed 30 – 40
Pader Passer ¾
Time 30 /g
Working Procedure
1. Silicon softener is a compound of organic polysiloxane and

polymer which is for soft finishing of natural fibers such as cotton,
hemp, silk, wool, and human hair. It also deals with polyester,
nylon, and other synthetic fibers.
2. Silicon softener is macro molecule comprised of a poly backbone
of alternating silicon oxygen atoms with of group attached to
silicon.
3. Silicon softener softening capability comes from the silicon
backbones flexibility and its freedom of rotation along the (si-o)
bonds.
3.7 Fixing
Table 3.5: Fixing Softener Recipe
Fixing 10 – 30 g/l
Temperature 30-50oC
M/c Speed 30 – 40
Pader Passer 3/4
Time 15-20 m/g
pH 3-5
Working Procedure
Fixing agent is one of the important textile auxiliaries in dyeing and
printing industry, which can improve the color fastness of dye in
fabric. On the fabric, it can form insoluble colored material with dye,
thus to improve the color of washing, perspiration fastness, and
sometimes can improve its sun fastness. In recent years, with the
development of science and technology, dyeing and finishing
technology has also been significantly improved. Due to the expansion
of international textile trade and the improvement of people’s living
standards and environmental awareness, it’s more required of textiles
comfort, clean and safety. Since the 1970s, Germany first launched
the “Blue Angel” plan,
3.8 Color Softener

Table 3.6: Color Softener Recipe
Color Softener 10.5 – 30.5 g/l
Temperature 30-50oC
M/c Speed 30 – 40
Pader Passer 3/4
Time 15-20 m/g
pH 3-5
Working Procedure
Color Softener agent is one of the important textile auxiliaries in
dyeing and printing industry, which can improve the color fastness of
dye in fabric. On the fabric, it can form insoluble colored material
with dye, thus to improve the color of washing, perspiration fastness,
and sometimes can improve its sun fastness. In recent years, with
the development of science and technology, dyeing and finishing
3.9 Solusoft R MW liq

Table 3.7: Solusoft RMW liq Softener Recipe
Solusoft R MW liq Softener 5 – 30 g/l
Pad 65-85
Dry at 130oC
pH 5
Working Procedure
The nonionic character of Solusoft R MW liq Softener enables their
application by the pad method on all substrates in all shades, in
particular one bath application together with anionic fluorescent
brighteners without any effect on the degree of whiteness. In general,
when using silicone products care must be taken to rise the good
thoroughly after pretreatment or dyeing in order to remove all
chemical residues. In particular detergents based on polymers must
be well rised out as they can cause precipitations and silicone spots
on the good. The finishing liquors should be adjusted to ca. PH 5 to
ensure good liquor stability. Solusoft R MW liq are distinguished by
good stability so that they can also be used for special finished even
under extremely acid conditions. Even the strongly alkaline scour
required by these finishes does not cause any problems.
3.10 Siligen R SIH liq

Table 3.8: Siligen R SIH Softener Recipe
Name of Chemicals Quantity(g/l)
Siligen R SIH Softener 2 – 5 g/l
Time 30 minutes
Temperature 30-45oC
pH 5
Working Procedure
Siligen R SIH Softener is applied at room temperature by a padding or
exhaust process. The PH value of the prepared finishing liquor should
be 5. The liquor picks up depending on the type of goods should be in
the range of 60-90%. Drying is usually carried out in the temperature
range of 120-150 degree. High shear stress and increased liquor
temperature can lead to the instability of the finishing liquor. The
permanence of silicone of silicone products means that care and
attention should be paid when processing as faults one very difficult
to repair. Before finishing alkaline fabrics should be adjusted to a
slightly acid PH. After the finishing of dyes the washing and rubbing
fastness usually remain unchanged. Deterioration occurs only in rare
cases.
3.11 Solusoft R ECO liq

Table 3.9: Solusoft R ECO Softener Recipe
Solusoft R ECO Softener 0.5 – 4 g/l
Time 20-30 minute
Temperature 30-40oC
pH 4-5
Working Procedure
Solusoft R ECO Softener can be applied in both exhaust and padding
process. Its liquor stability is greatly improved in padding process
compared to conventional polysiloxanes.
Application in overflow dyeing machines with low shearing forces is

possible. When applying silicone products care should always be
taken to ensure adequate rising to remove all chemical residues after
pretreatment or dyeing. It is essential to rerse thoroughly if special
detergents based on polymers have been used because these
productions can cause precipitations and therefore silicone sports on
the goods. High temperature should also be avoided because too high
a temperature can have a negative effect on the stability of the
finishing liquor.
3.12 Solusoft NUP liq
Table 3.10: Solusoft NUP liq Softener Recipe
Solusoft NUP Softener 5 – 30 g/l
Pat at 60-85%
Dry at 120-140oC
pH 5
Working Procedure
Solusoft NUP Softener is mainly applied by the padding method due
to their nonionic character. It can be applied on all substrates in all
shades. The nonionic character of the product enables one bath
application on together with anionic fluorescent brightness without
any impainment of the degree of whiteness. The production should be
applied in the weakly acid region. Application in the alkaline region
should be avoided. When applying silicone production care should
always be taken that the goods are adequately rinsed after
pretreatment and or dyeing in oder to remove all chemical residues.
In particular polymer-based detergents must be raised well as they
can cause precipitions and therefore silicone sports on the goods.
3.13 Sandofix EC- (Fixing agent)

Table 3.11: Sandofix EC- (Fixing agent) Recipe
Name of Chemicals Quantity(g/l)

Sandofix EC- (Fixing agent) 15 – 30 g/l
Temperature 30-40oC
Pader Passer 3/4
Time 20-25 m/g
pH 5
Working Procedure
Sandofix EC- (Fixing agent) is one of the important textile auxiliaries
in dyeing and printing industry, which can improve the color fastness
of dye in fabric. On the fabric, it can form insoluble colored material
with dye, thus to improve the color of washing, perspiration fastness,
and sometimes can improve its sun fastness. In recent years, with the
development of science and technology, dyeing and finishing
3.14 Anionic Softener (Negative ion)

This types of tense is produced from condensed fatty acids. This type
of softener has quality to make soft hand feel of fabric. In acid and
hard water this type of softener not stable. This type of softener is
negatively changed hydrophilic group. When cellulose fabric wet in
water than it acquires negative change and attracts positively change
hydrophobic group.
Padding Method
 Softener = 20-25 G/L

 Ph = 4-5
 Pick Up % = 70-80%
 Temperature = 120-140
 Time = 2-3 Minutes
Ex Haust Mothod
 Softener = 1-2% Of Wight Of Fabric

 M: L = 1:10
 Temperature: 45-50
 Ph = 4-5
 Time = 20-30 Minutes
3.15 Assessment of Color Fastness
1. Changes in the color of the specimen being tested that is color

fading.
2. Staining of undyed material which is in contact with the specimen
during the test that is bleeding of color.
Grey Scale:
Grey scale is an empirical scale containing a series of pairs of
neutrally colored chips, showing increasing contrast within pairs.
It is used to assess contrasts between the pairs of patterns visually.

Two types of grey scale:
1. Color change
2. Staining
3.16 Color Fastness to Washing
Wash fastness and rubbing fastness (dry and wet) of dye cotton were
measured as per the ISO 105-C06 and ISO 105-X12 respectively.
Color fatness to washing means, a specimen of the textile, in contact
with one or two specified adjacent fabrics, is mechanically agitated
under described conditions of time and temperature in a soap
solution, then rinsed and dried. The change in color of the specimen
and the staining of the adjacent fabric are assessed with the
greyscales.
In my personal experience, in case of fastness test color fastness to

washing is the first and most important requirements of buyers. There
are a number of ISO test for color fastness to washing.
Instruments
 Gyrowash / Rotawash Color Fastness Tester

 Stainless Still Ball
 Multi-fiber fabric
 Greyscale
 Sewing machine
 Thermometer
 Cylinder
Recipe
 ECE phosphate reference detergent (B) 4gm./liter

 Sodium Perborate 1gm/liter
Sample Preparation
 Sample Fabric——-100mm*4mm
 Multifiber fabric—–100mm*40m
Working Procedure
Collecting the sample and then conditioning for 06 hours. Making a
specimen of 04 cm x 10 cm in size. Sewing the specimen with multi-
fiber fabric of same size at one corner, Making the solution of
4gm/liter ECE (B) detergent & 1 gm/liter sodium perborate). Putting
the specimen with multi-fiber fabric into the solution in Gyrowash m/c
Prog. A2S Temp.: / 40 C Time: 30 min Still ball: 10 pcs. Rinsing with
hot water respectively. Squeezing with cold water of the sample is
done (Hand Wash). Then drying is done at a temperature in the air not
exceeding 60°C The stitching is then broken out except on one of the
shorter ends. Measuring the staining and color change by grey scale
& make a test report. [12]
For ISO 105 C06 (A2S)
 Total solution (changeable)…………….150ml

 Number of Stainless Still Ball………….10 (for hitting)
 Time …………………………………………………30min
 Temperature …………………………………..400C
For ISO 105 C06 (B2S)
 Total solution(changeable)……………150ml
 Number of Stainless Still Ball ……….25 (for hitting)
 Time …………………………………………….. 30min
 Temperature ……………………………… 500C
For ISO 105 C06(C2S)
 Total solution(changeable) ………….50ml

 Stainless Still Ball ………………………….25 (for hitting)
 Time ……………………………………………30min
 Temperature …………………………… 600C
Figure 3.1:
Gyro wash (For color fastness to washing machine)
3.17 Color Fastness to Perspiration

The color fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline) shall be at least
level 3-4 (color change and staining). This criterion does not apply to
white products, to products that are neither dyed nor printed, to
furniture fabrics, curtains or similar textiles intended for interior
decoration. A level of 3 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics are both
light colored (standard depth < 1/12) and made of silk or of blends
with more than 20% silk. This kind of test is specially applied for the
sportswear and heavy dresses which are used specially. Normal cloths
are also tested by perspiration test. [20]
The garments which come into contact with the body where
perspiration is heavy may suffer serious local discoloration. This test
is intended to determine the resistance of color of dyed textile to the
action of acidic and alkaline perspiration. Before knowing about the
Color Fastness to perspiration you must have to know about Color
Fastness to wash and Color Fastness to Rubbing. Well, in today’s class
you will know about the perspiration matters which effects on
Colorfastness.[14]
Reagent for Perspiration Test
1. Acid: Solution freshly prepared, containing 0.5g 1-histidine mono-

hydrochloride mono- hydrate, 5g sodium chloride, and 2.2g sodium
dihydrogenortho phosphate per liter brought to PH 5.5 with 0.1N
sodium hydroxide.
2. Alkali: Solution freshly prepared, containing 0.5g 1-histidine

mono-hydrochloride mono- hydrate, 5g sodium chloride, and 2.5g
disodium hydrogenortho phosphate per liter brought to PH 8.0 with
0.1N sodium hydroxide.
Figure 3.2: Incubator &

Perspirometer (For color fastness to perspiration)
Working Procedure
Where fibers are to be tested, take a mass of the fiber approximately
equal to one-half of the combined mass of the adjacent fabrics and
either. Place it between a (100 ± 2) mm × (40 ± 2) mm piece of the
multitier fabric and a (100 ± 2) mm × (40 ± 2) mm piece of the non-
dye able fabric and sew them along all four sides.
Layout the composite specimen in a flat bottom dish and cover with
grade 3 water at room temperature. Thoroughly wet out
approximately liquor ratio 50:1, and allow it for 30 min. Pour off the
solution and wipe the excess liquor off the between two glass plate.
Place the composite sample between two resin plate under presser of
12.5± 0.9 kpa /5kg, place the test device in oven at temp 37±2ºC for
4 hours. Open out the specimen, dry by hanging in the air not
exceeding 60ºC in contact only at the line of stitching.[14]
3.18 Color Fastness to Rubbing

There are two test methods for rubbing fastness.
1. ISO-105-X12AATCC-08
Determining the resistance of the color of textiles of all kinds,
including textile floor coverings and other pile fabrics, to rubbing off
and staining other materials.
A rectangular rubbing surface with the lead edge rounded measuring

19 mm × 25.4 mm (crock block). Downward force of (9 ± 0.2) N,
Track length (104 ± 3) mm Diameter of rubbing finger (16 ± 0.1) mm.
Two tests may be made, two with a dry rubbing cloth and two with a
wet rubbing cloth on both directions. Two pieces not less than (50 ×
140) mm are required for dry rubbing and two for wet rubbing. Two
pieces not less than (50 × 140) mm are required for dry rubbing and
two for wet rubbing. 10 cycle 10 sec, Condition the specimen and
rubbing cloth for at least 4h in an atmosphere of (20 ± 2) ◦C and (65
±
2. %RH by laying each test specimen and each piece of rubbing cloth
separately on a screen or perforated shelf. What is the moisture pick
up percentage for wet rubbing 95% to 100%. [15,16]
Figure 3.3
Crockmaster (For color fastness to rubbing)
Chapter 4
Results and Discussion
4.1 Effect of softener on GSM:

GSM change For Double Lacoste fabric (Second sample): During
overall wet processing & finishing process of Double Lacoste fabric,
GSM is changed to a greater extent as shown in table-10(a) &
10(b). GSM is mainly changed in Pretreatment, Dyeing, Stentering &
in Compacting stages. During Pretreatment overall impurities are
removed by using scouring & Bleaching Agent for why GSM is
extremely reduced than grey fabric. During Ant pilling Protruding
fibers are removed by using Enzyme for why GSM is reduced. During
Dyeing a lot of dyes are used for Combination shade for why GSM is
increased. During soaping extra unfixed color is cut for why GSM is
reduced. During stentering GSM is reduced.
Table 4.1 Effect of softener on GSM
Chemical Before Softener After Softener GSM Change GSM

GMS
Hydrophilic Softner 163 160 -3
White Softner 151 150 -1
Silicon Softner 157 160 3
Fixign Agent 135 138 3
Color Sofrner 137 140 3
Solusoft R MW liq 158 160 2
Siligen R SIH liq 155 160 5
Solusoft R ECO liq 135 140 5
Solusoft NUP liq 159 160 1
Sandofix EC- (Fixing agent) 139 140 1
4.2 Effect of softener on Hand feel and Shade
 Hand feel ——–Good Softness, Flexibility Very Good.

 Shade ————No changed
4.3 Effect of softener on Color Fastness to wash

Table 4.2: Effect of softener on Color fastness to Wash
Signal jersey
Sample Type Combed Compact Combed Compact Combed Compact
Fiber Samples
Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool Acetate
Chemical
Hydrophilic Softner Grade Grade Grade Grade Grade Grade
White Softner 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5
Silicon Softner 4-5 4-5 3 4-5 4-5 4-5
Fixign Agent 4-5 4 4 4 4-5 4-5
Color Sofrner 4-5 4-5 4-5 5 4-5 5
Solusoft R MW liq 4-5 4-5 4-5 5 4-5 5
Siligen R SIH liq 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5
Solusoft R ECO liq 4-5 4-5 3 4-5 4-5 4-5
Solusoft NUP liq 4-5 4 4 4 4-5 4-5
Sandofix EC-(Fixing
4-5 4-5 4-5 5 4-5 5
agent)
From the above table can be said that the result of staining and
change value of all chemical treatment fabric is natural same. When is
show very good result of all sample?
4.4 Color Fastness to Rubbing

Table 4.3: Color fastness to Rubbing
Dry Wet
Sample Name
Rating Fastness Grade Raring Fastness Grade
Hydrophilic Softner 4-5 Good 4-5 Fair
White Softner 4-5 Fair To Good 3-5 Fair
Silicon Softner 4-5 Good To Excellent 3-6 Fair To Good
Fixign Agent 4-5 Fair 4-5 Poor To Fair
Color Sofrner 4-5 Good 4-5 Fair
Solusoft R MW liq 4-5 Fair To Good 3-5 Fair
Siligen R SIH liq 4-5 Good To Excellent 4-5 Fair To Good
Solusoft R ECO liq 4-5 Fair 4-5 Poor To Fair
Solusoft NUP liq 4-5 Fair 4-5 Poor To Fair
Sandofix EC- (Fixing agent) 4-5 Good 4-5 Fair

From the table color fastness to rubbing it can be said that the wet
and dry rubbing result of staining and change value of all chemical
treatment fabric is nearly same. Which is show very good result.
Better result in fining agent treatment in dark shade.
4.5 Color Fastness to Perspiration (Alkali)

Table 4.4: Color fastness to Perspiration
Chemical Sample Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool
Hydrophilic Softner 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5
White Softner 4-5 4-5 3 4-5 4-5 4-5
Silicon Softner 4-5 4 4 4 4-5 4-5
Fixign Agent 4-5 4-5 4-5 5 4-5 5
Color Sofrner 4-5 4-5 4-5 5 4-5 5
Solusoft R MW liq 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5
Siligen R SIH liq 4-5 4-5 3 4-5 4-5 4-5
Solusoft RECO liq 4-5 4 4 4 4-5 4-5
Solusoft NUP liq 4-5 4-5 4-5 5 4-5 5

Sandofix EC-(Fixing agent) 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5
From the table color fastness to perspiration is graded in three steps

tor color staining in the multifabric and color change of the sample.
One step in made for alkaline other is acidic perspiration. Two
individual respective grey scales are used for color stain and color
change the results are given as following. From the above data we
found that alkaline perspiration fastness grads for color staining show
good result all sample color fastness to perspiration result is good.
4.6 Color Fastness to Perspiration (Acid)

Table 4.5: Color fastness to Perspiration
Chemical Sample Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool
Hydrophilic Softner 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5
White Softner 4-5 4-5 3 4-5 4-5 4-5
Silicon Softner 4-5 4 4 4 4-5 4-5
Fixign Agent 4-5 4-5 4-5 5 4-5 5
Color Sofrner 4-5 4-5 4-5 5 4-5 5
Solusoft RMW liq 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5
Siligen R SIH liq 4-5 4-5 3 4-5 4-5 4-5
Solusoft RECO liq 4-5 4 4 4 4-5 4-5

Solusoft NUP liq 4-5 4-5 4-5 5 4-5 5
Sandofix EC-(Fixing agent) 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5
It is found that in this research with it is found that acidic perspiration

grades are almost same to alkaline.
Chapter 5
Conclusion
5.1 Conclusion:
From this project work, we have gained a brief practical knowledge
about different types of chemical treatment (Silicon Softener
Hydrophilic Softener White Softener and Color Softener). We have
compared different types of chemical process and also identified their
effect on color fastness process. We believe this little effort taken by
us can play a significant role in future practical life to improve
practical knowledge to work in a textile factory. Finishing process to
give an excellent result; Chemical can be exhausted almost entirely on
to the cellulose fibers. The color fastness of these dying at different
chemical treatment as different result. After treatments of dye fixing,
and wet rubbing improving, the color fastness of dyed cotton fabric
with different dye were improved without doubt.
References:
1. E.P.G. Ghol & L.D. Vilensky, Textile Science (1983), CBS

Publishers & Distributors, 41-42.
2. S. Gordon and Y-L. Hsies, Cotton: Science and technology (2007),
Woodhead Publishing Ltd, 3-5.
3. A.D. Broadbent, Basic Principle of Textile Coloration9201), SDC,
72.
4. E.R. Troatman, Dyeing & Chemical technology of Textile Fibers
(1975), Charles Giffin & Company Ltd, 44.
5. Postle, R. (1990) “Fabric Objective Measurement Technology:
Present Status and Future Potential”, International Journal of
Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 2 No: 3, pp.7 – 17
6. Ukponmwan J. O. (1988). Correlation Between Objective and
Subjective Methods of Assessing Fabric Handle, Journal of Textile
Institute, No 4, 1988, pp 580-587.
7. Kawabata S. (1989). Fabric Performance in Clothing and Clothing
Manufacture, Journal of Textile Institute, Vol 80, No 1, pp 19-50
8. Chen, Y., and Collier, B. J, (1997). Characterizing Fabric End Use
by Fabric Physical Properties, Textile Research Journal, Vol 67, No
4, pp 247-252.
9. BS (1979). Methods of Test for Textiles (British Standard
Handbook No. 11), British Standards Institution, Revised Edition.
10. Gong R.H. and Mukhopadhyay S.K. (1993). Fabric Objective
Measurement: A Comparative Study of Fabric Characteristics,
Journal of Textile Institute, Vol 84, No 2, pp 192-198.
Appendix
Sample Test
Fig:
Hydrophilic Softener Tested Sample.
GSM Test
Fig:
Hydrophilic Softener GSM Tested sample.
Color fastness to Wash, perspiration and Rubbing test.

Tested Sample Color fastness to Rubbing for different chemical
treatment on knitted fabric.
Fig:
Hydrophilic Softener Color fastness to Wash, perspiration And
Rubbing.
Sample Test:
Fig: White
Softener Tested Sample.
GSM Test
Fig: White
Softener GSM Tested sample.

Fig: White
softener Color fastness to Wash, perspiration And Rubbing.
Sample Test
Fig: Silicon
softener Tested Sample.
GSM Test
Fig: Silicon
softener GSM Tested Sample.
Color fastness to Wash, perspiration And Rubbing test.

Treatment.
Fig: Silicon
softener Color fastness to Wash, perspiration And Rubbing.
Sample Test
Fig: Fixing
GSM Test
Fig: Fixing
softener GSM Tested Sample.

Fig: Fixing
Softener Color fastness to Wash, perspiration And Rubbing.
Sample Test
Fig: Color
GSM Test
Fig: Color
Softener GSM Tested Sample.

Fig: Color
Softener Color fastness to Wash, perspiration And Rubbing.
Sample Test
Fig: Solusoft
R MW liq Softener Tested Sample.
GSM Test
Fig: Solusoft
R MW liq Softener GSM Tested Sample.

Fig: Solusoft
R MW liq Softener Color fastness to Wash, perspiration And Rubbing.
Sample Test
Fig: Siligen R
SIH liq Softener Tested Sample.
GSM Test
Fig: Siligen R
SIH liq Softener GSM Tested Sample.

Fig: Siligen R
SIH liq Softener Color fastness to Wash, perspiration And Rubbing.
Sample Test
Fig: Solusoft
R ECO liq Softener Tested Sample.
GSM Test
Fig: Solusoft
R ECO liq Softener GSM Tested Sample.

Fig: Solusoft
R ECO liq Softener Color fastness to Wash, perspiration And Rubbing.
Sample Test
Fig: Solusoft
NUP liq Softener Tested Sample.
GSM Test
Fig: Solusoft
NUP liq Softener GSM Tested Sample.

Fig: Solusoft
NUP liq Softener Color fastness to Wash, perspiration And Rubbing.
Sample Test
Fig: Sandofix
EC-(Fixing agent) Softener Tested Sample.
GSM Test
Fig: Sandofix
EC-(Fixing agent) Softener GSM Tested Sample.

Treatment on knitted fabric.
Fig: Sandofix
EC
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Desizing: Mechanism, Processes, Types in

Textile
What is Desizing?
Desizing is the first wet process in the textile processing of raw grey fabrics. In one word it’s
the removal process of previously applied size materials (during sizing). Desizing depends
on applied size materials. Desizing is done on raw greige (grey) fabric, that is means when
the fabric is unprocessed or in an unfinished raw condition. The previous processes of
desizing are brushing, croping, and singeing, and the next processes are scouring and
bleaching the textile industry. The objective is to remove size material from the raw fabric so
that dyeing and printing process can be smooth. This article is about to desizing mechanism,
processes and types of desizing in Textile Industry.
What are the size materials?
Size materials are basically starch or synthetic film-forming polymers. To improve the
strength and smoothness of yarn before weaving size materials are applied on yarn (warp
yarn) to prevent repeated breakage with the loom. Commonly used sized materials are
Starch, CMC, Guar Gum, PVA, Acrylic Polymers, etc. Tallow, Wax, Urea, Lubricants, etc
also used during Sizing for auxiliary purposes.
Why do we need further removal of Size materials?
Ok, as we know, sizing is a coating with a thin polymer film on the yarn surface. Though it
enhances smoothness and strength fabric stage is not the last stage of Garments processing.
We are required to remove this outer layer for Dyeing and other subsequent processes.
Now if we used Starch as a size material, it can decay naturally. But in industrial practice,
it’s a misfit. Because it takes a huge time and floor space but the most serious thing is
outputs are unpredictable. It means uneven Desizing. If we use synthetic-size materials, then
the removal process is quite easy, but synthetic agents are expensive. So, for techno-
economic consideration mixer of natural and synthetic agents is used.
Desizing Processes in Textile Industry
Starch, and its chemical compositions
Starch contains Amylose and Amylopectin in its structure. Where Amylose in the greater
portion and Amylopectin is the lower portion. Amylose is water soluble but due to the
presence branch chain in Amylopectin, it is water insoluble. So, in the Desizing process, our
main focus is to remove Amylopectin. Let’s consider its structure.
Picture credit: Research Gate, Yusuf Habibi
So, for 1-6 linkage it remains insoluble in water.
We can soluble it by breaking 1-4 linkage or by Oxidation of -OH groups present in the ring
structure. In Desizing Starch convert to Dextrin, Maltose, and Glucose which are water-
soluble.
Methods/ Type of Desizing
From ancient to recent Desizing are mainly four types:
 Rot Steeping
 Acid Steeping
 Enzymatical Desizing
 Oxidative Desizing
Rot Steeping
It is a very easy and old method, no specialized chemical is used. During this process, fabrics
are passed through hot water without squeezing and stored covered by polythene.
Microorganism generates in hot and warm conditions. And they start to degrade starch. This
process is taking time generally 24 hours.
Advantages:
 No chemical use
 Minimum Cost
 Environment friendly
 Very easy Process
Disadvantages:
 Large floor space

 Huge time-consuming (24 hours)
 Uneven effect
 Industrially not suitable.
Acid Steeping
In this process, fabric passed through an acid solution mainly HCl with a concentration of
0.5-1 % according to fabric weight (owf). Then the fabric was stored at room temperature at
30℃ for a few hours. Acid break 1-4 linkages and size materials soluble into water.
Advantages:
 Cheap process
 Energy efficient
 More weight loss
Disadvantages:
 Cotton fabric degradation starts if the acid concentration is above 2% during storage.
 Time-consuming (Around 2 hours at 60℃&4 hours at 30℃)
 Large Floor Space
Enzymatic Desizing
Before this, let’s talk briefly about Enzyme. The term Enzyme is used to indicate Bio-
catalyst. Enzymes are proteins with high molecular weight. They are very specific in their
action. One enzyme doesn’t act on other substrates. If we changed the conditions, they
remain in inactivation mode. A 10-degree Celcius increase in temperature reduces 50% of
efficiency. Enzymes are named according to the substrate they act on like,
 Amylase act on Amylose

 Cellulase act on Cellulose etc.
Enzyme Sources:
 Melt, from plant origin

 Pancreatices enzyme from animal origin
 Bacteriacal enzymes are artificially made by genetic modification.
Conditions of Enzymatic Desizing:
Source pH Temperature
Malt 4.6-5.2 (50-60) ℃
Pancreatic around 7 (40-55) ℃
Becteriacal 5-7 (60-70) ℃
Typical Recipe for Enzymatic Desizing:
Bacterial Enzyme 2-5 g/l
Common Salt (Activator) 5g/l
Wetting Agent (Non-ionic) 1.5g/l
pH around 7
Temperature (70-80) ℃
Advantages:
 Environmental friendly
 Less time required
 Good desizing effect
 Do not hamper Fabric strength
Disadvantages:
 Costly
 Careful condition control
 Sometimes tough to find skilled person
Oxidative Desizing
This Desizing technique is effective on both natural and synthetic-sized materials. Oxidative
Desizing agents are NaBrO2, NaOCl (Chemic), H2O2, etc. But in recent time NaOCl does not
use cause, with the presence of protein impurities in Cotton fabric it generates yellow spots
which are tough to remove. As oxidative agents are costly so this process is performed with
scouring to meet the cost.
Conditions of Oxidative Desizing:
Persulphate 0.3-0.5 %
Temperature 100℃
Time 10 min. pH 12
During Desizing 85% of the size was removed. Rest will be removed in the subsequent next
process.
Advantages:
 Fast process
 Effective on both natural and synthetic impurities
 Continuous process
Disadvantages:
 Careful control
 Costly Chemicals
 Hamper on fabric structure
Dyeing Recipe Calculation in Textile Industry
Dyeing Recipe Calculation:

A lab dip is a sample of fabric that has been dyed as per
requirements. When a dye house or color lab dyes a few small
swatches of actual quality fabric or textile trim to find out what
formula creates the best color match for that quality. Lab dips are
very essential before dyeing bulk or even small lots of anything. In lab
dip calculation some formulas are used. These formulas are
described below.
Dyeing Recipe Calculation Formula:
Dye = (Shade % * Weight of the fabric in gm) / Stock solution %
Or,
Required solution = WP / C
Where,
W = weight of fabric, yarn, or fiber
P = shade percentage
C = concentration of stock solution
CC = cubic centimeter.
For auxiliaries (chemicals) the formula is as below:

Required amount of solution (mls) = (g/l required * wt of substrate *
LR) / (10 * concentration (%) of stock soln)
For addition of auxiliaries in solids form such as salt the formula is:
Salt in g/l = (Required amount (%) * Sample weight * LR) / 1000
Conversion formula from percentage to g/l is as below:

g/l = Required amount (%) * 10.
If alkali conc. Is given in Be. then the formula to calculate this in g/l is
as follows :
Or ,
= (Required amount (%)* wt of substrate * LR) / (Concentration (%) of

stock soln)
Or,
Required alkali soln in c.c. = (g/l required * wt of substrate * LR) / (10*

conversion value from Be. to g/l of alkali)
Or ,
Required alkali soln in c.c. = (Required amount (%) * wt of substrate *

LR) / conversion value from Be. to g/l of alkali
Example:
Suppose a lab deep of a fabric sample (1*1 rib) has to be formed with
following dyes and chemicals:
Dyes:
1. Rema Blue RR = 1.122%
2. React Red KHW = 2.014%
3. React Yellow KHW = 1.486%
Salt = 70%
Soda Ash (conc.20%) = 5 g/l
Caustic Soda (38 Be) = 1.32%
L: R = 1:8
Sample Wt. = 5 gm
% Stock Soln = 1
Therefore, recipe calculation for dyes and auxiliaries in g/l will be as

follows:
For dyes:
We know,
Dye = (Shade % * Weight of the fabric in gm) / (Stock solution % )
For,
1. Rema Blue RR = (1.122*5)/1=5.61 g/l
2. React Red KHW = (2.014*5)/1= 10.07 g/l
3. React Yellow KHW = (1.486*5)/1= 7.43 g/l .
For auxiliaries:
We know,
Salt in g/l = (Required amount (%) * Sample weight * LR) / 1000
Required Salt = (70*5*8)/1000 = 2.8 gm.
For Soda ash (conc.20%):
We know ,
—.
. . Required amount of soda ash in C.C. = (5*5*8) / (10*20) = 1.0
For Caustic soda (38 Be.):
We know ,
Required alkali soln in c.c. = (Required amount (%) * wt of substrate *
LR ) / conversion value from Be. to g/l of alkali
—.
. . Required caustic soda = (1.32*5*8) / 441 = 0.12 c.c.
[since 38 °Be.NaOH = 441 gm NaOH 100% per 1lit NaOH soln]
Extra Water required:

= M:L – (required water to make soln of dyes and auxiliaries) = (5*8)
– [(5.61+10.07+7.43) + (1.0+0.12) ]
= 40 – 24.112
= 15.77 (Salt is added in solid form)
Equipments of Recipe Section:
1. Microprocessor pH Meter (Hanna Instrument)

2. Digital pipette
3. Digital Weighting Meter
LABORATORY CALCULATIONS & PROCEDRES
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1. M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected]
1 Engr. Abu Sayed,
DEDICATED TO MY DEAR SIR MR. SAJESH PERINGETH Abu Sayed Sajesh sir
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT At first, I gratefulness goes to Almighty God to give us strength
and ability to understand good or bad. You have made our life more beautiful. May
you name be exalted, honored and glorified. I am Abu Sayed, not big man but simple
man. My home district is Tangail. I am proudful that my father is a farmer. I have
completed the M.Sc in Textile Engineering from Daffodil Internatioanal University. I
am working as laboratory Manager in a reputed group at Narayanganj. I want to give
my heartiest gratitude to my dear sir Mr. Sajesh (Quality Assurance Manager).
Thanks goes to all Engineers, officers, technicians, employees, staff and all section in-
charges for their cordial behavior help. SUMMARY This Manual has arranged on the
basis of Textile Dyeing lab procedure, calculations & ETP etc. Here presenting some
Lab & Dyeing calculations in my Practical life. I am not Writer & If I any mistake,
Excuse me. You mind it man is wrong.
2. 2 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Lab Dip:
Lab Dip Development means the sample which is dyed according to buyer’s
requirements (similar shade and so on). Depending on lab dip development sample
dyeing and bulk production dyeing planning is done. Lab work plays an important
role in dyeing process. Bulk dyeing process completely depends on the lab dip
development work. Lab work is completely managed as the following sequence. Lab
dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes
percentage in the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR”. Lab dip plays an
important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the dyes and
chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production. So this is an important task
before bulk production. Object of Lab Dip: The main objectives in lab dip are as
follows: 1. To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing. 2. To compare dyed sample
with swatch by light Box or Spectrophotometer. 3. To calculate revise recipe for
sample dyeing. 4. Finally approved Lab Dip (Grade: A, B, C & D) Common Stock
Solutions: Red – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common) Yellow – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%,
2.0% (very common) Blue – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common). Preparation: To
prepare 0.1% Stock solution, it is necessary to mix 0.1 g dye and 100 cc water. To
prepare 0.5% Stock solution, 0.5 g dye stuff is mixed with 100 cc water. To prepare
1.0% & 2.0% Stock solution similar procedure is followed. To prepare 10% Stock
solution of Soda ash, 10 g Soda is mixed with 100 cc water. Depth of Shade: 0.5% to
5% shade for the goods. Lab Dip Calculation: Usually following calculations are
followed: Dye Solution = (Shade % * Sample Weight) / (Stock solution %) (cc). Salt =
(Shade % * Liquor) / 1000 (gram per liter, gpl). Soda Solution = (Shade % * 100 *
Liquor) / (1000 * Stock solution %) (cc). Sample Calculation for 0.5% Shade: Sample
wt. = 5 mg Material liquor ratio = 1: 10 Total liquor (5 * 10) = 50 cc Dye solution
required = (5 * 0.5%) / 1% = 2.5 cc Salt solution required = (50 * 25) / (20 * 10) = 6.25
cc Soda ash solution required = (50 * 10) / (20 * 10) = 2.5 cc Water required = {50 –
(2.5 + 6.25 + 2.5)} = 38.75 cc
3. 3 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Working
Procedure in Lab Dip: All ingredients had been taken according to the recipe into the
pot of sample dyeing machine. At a room temp the material had run then after 10
minutes started to rise the temperature at 1°C/ min. to get 60°C temperature. For
performing the required dyeing temperature it took 30 minutes. The material had
dyed at 60°C for 45 minutes. Then the temperature was reduced at room
temperature within in 10 minutes. The fabric washed in cold water & then the
material was washed in 1 gm/l soap solution (liquor ratio 1:20) at 90°C temperature
for 15 minutes. Then after rapidly cold washing the material was dried & preserved.
And then check the shade match with the required sample by the lighting box. Then
send to buyer or merchandiser for approval. Working Procedure of Sample Dyeing
(Knit Dyeing Section): Normally a textile dyeing mill get offer through merchandiser.
Merchandising department of dyeing mill send the swatch to the central dyeing lab.
Then the lab manager analysis the color of swatch with the help of
spectrophotometer. After shade matching three sample are submitted to the buyer
or buyer agents. If sample is approved by the buyer then this sample recipe are sent
to floor for bulk production. The dyeing master dyeing the sample for bulk
production. Now I will give the flowchart of sample dyeing for bulk production.
Sample dyeing machine (Scouring and Bleaching) Water load in sample dyeing
machine ↓ Fabric load ↓ Temperature raised in 500 C ↓ Scouring chemical added
(dosing time 10min) ↓ Temperature raised in 600 C ↓ NaOH dosing ( dosing time
5min) ↓ Temperature raised in 700 C ↓ Hydrogen Peroxide dosing (dosing time
10min) ↓ Temperature raised in 100-1100 C and running at 30min ↓ Cooling at 800
C ↓ Ringe or normal wash (10min) ↓ Drain out ↓ New water load
4. 4 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] ↓
Temperature raised in 550 C ↓ Add acid + OEM ( for destroying Hydrogen Peroxide
power) ↓ pH check and obtain 4.5 by adding acetic acid ↓ Enzyme is added and run
time 60 min ↓ Sample check if approved by incharge ↓ Ringe (run time 15min) ↓
Drain out (Dyeing) New water load ↓ pH check and obtain 5.6 by adding acetic acid
↓ Temperature raised at 50-550 C ↓ Dyeing auxiliaries added (leveling agent, anti
creasing agent, sequestering agent etc) ↓ Salt added and running at 10min ↓ Color
is added and dosing time 30 min ( Reactive dye, Disperse dye, Acid dye etc) ↓
Running time 25 min ↓ Temperature raised at 600C ↓ Soda ash (dosing time 35
min) ↓ Sample cutting for checking after 10 min later ↓ If approve then ringe at 20
min ↓ New water load ↓ Add acetic acid for neutralization at 400 C and run at
10min ↓ Ringe at 5 min ↓ Drain out
5. 5 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] ↓ New
water load ↓ Temperature raised at 90-950 C and 10 min running ↓ Cooling at 800
C ↓ Ringe ( for cut sample) ↓ Shade checking if approve by incharge then ↓ Ringe
and running at 15 min ↓ Drain out ↓ New water load ↓ Temperature raised at 300
C ↓ Fixing agent added ( GG-100, ECO, CR) and dosing time 10min ↓ Ringe ( 10min)
↓ Drain out ↓ New water load ↓ Temperature raised at 400 C ↓ Softener added
and run time 30 min ↓ Shade matching if approve then ↓ Fabric unload.
6. 6 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Cotton
fabric dyeing by Reactive dyes Sample weight = 5 gm. M: L = 1: 10 Recipe: Reactive
dyes = 0.8 % Reactive dyes = 1.0 % Reactive dyes = 0.05 % Salt = 30 g/l Soda = 10 g/l
Calculations: We know, Dyes = F. weight in gm x shade % Stock solution % Water = 50
ml. Suppose, Stock solution = 1 %. Reactive dyes = 5 gm x 0.8 % = 4 ml. 1 % Reactive
dyes = 5 gm x 1.0 % = 5 ml. 1 % Reactive dyes = 5 gm x 0.05 % = 0.25 ml. 1 % Salt = 30
g/l = 30 x 50 / 1000 = 1.5 gm. Soda = 10 g/l = 10 x 50 / 1000 = 0.5 gm. Total volume =
50 ml Required water = 50 – (4+5 + 0.25) ml = 40.75 ml. In dye pot, 5 gm sample + 4
ml +5 ml + 0.25 ml + 1.5 gm + 0.5 gm + 40.75 ml. Time & Temperature = 60 min x 600
C. FABRIC DYEING Fabric dyeing is the method after weaving, knitting or non-woven
to make fabrics. This is very popular method of dyeing as the dyed fabrics will be
processed further to garment industries very easily. Dyeing forms of the fabric
dyeing can be used in 2 ways. 1. Open width form using the fabrics to spread without
any creases and dye them. 2. Rope form using the fabrics with the form like a rope.
Dyeing work flow chart: Scouring & bleaching ↓ Per oxide hot with a/acid ↓
Enzymes wash with a/acid ↓ Leveling with sequestering ↓
7. 7 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Dyeing
dosing ↓ Salt dosing ↓ Soda dosing ↓ Sample ↓ Drain ↓ Washing off ↓ A/acid ↓
Softener ↓ Unload Working Procedure: Firstly the detergent, Anti-creasing agent,
Anti-foaming agent and Stabilizer are mixed in mixing tank, then load to machine at
50°c ↓ The temperature is risen to 60°c. Now the Caustic Soda is given to bath ↓
The Hydrogen Peroxide is given at 70°c ↓ Raise the temperature at 98°c and run for
60 minutes. Here the Ph = 11-12 ↓ Rinse the fabric ↓ Hot wash is done at 80°c × 10
→ Drain → Normal wash → Drain ↓ Peroxide is applied at 60°c and run for 15
minutes → Hot wash ↓ Add Acetic Acid at same temperature and run 10 minutes ↓
pH checked (pH=6.5) → Normal wash ↓ Now Acetic Acid applied at 55°c for pH
control (pH= 4.50) and then Enzyme is given to bath at same temperature with 60
minute ↓ Raise the temperature (Grade rate → 2 C/min) at 80°c and run 6 minute ↓
Cold wash is done 2 times and the drained out.
8. 8 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Procedure
for Lab dips by the Different Dyestuff in the Laboratory: Procedure for100 % Cotton
Fabric: 1. Calculate the recipe. 2. Weight the fabric. 3. Take the beaker keep the
fabric in to the beaker. 4. Then the dyes, chemicals & required amount of water take
in to the beaker by the digital pipeting. 5. Then weight the salt by the electric balance
and add in to the beaker. 6. Then the beaker set in to the lab dyeing machine for
dyeing. 7. Start the program for dyeing the whole dyeing time 60 min at 60 °C
temperature. ( the dyeing time and temperature depends on which classes of dyes
are used for dyeing .) 8. After 30 min add the then add the soda ash . by pipeting . 9.
Again run the program next 30 min at the same temperature . 10. Finished the
dyeing time then the sample taken from the beaker first hot wash & then cold wash.
11. Then acid wash as for neutralization. 12. Then soaping required soap solution 10
min at 90° C temperature. 13. After the fabric again cold. 14. Then dry the lab dip
and compare with the standard. Turquoise Color: Turquoise is the color of the gem
turquoise. It is a slightly greenish shade of cyan. Turquoise is sometimes described as
a mixture of pale blue and green. The name comes from the French for Turkish.
Turquoise Color Types of Turquoise Color: There are six type of Turquoise Color. They
are given below: 1. Pale Turquoise (web color) (Hex: #AFEEEE) (RGB: 175, 238, 238)
2. Turquoise Blue (Hex: #00FFEF) (RGB: 0, 255, 239) 3. Bright Turquoise (Hex:
#08E8DE) (RGB: 8, 232, 222) 4. TURQUOISE (web color) (Hex: #40E0D0) (RGB: 64,
224, 208) 5. Medium Turquoise (web color) (Hex: #48D1CC) (RGB: 72, 209, 204) 6.
Deep Turquoise (web color Dark Turquoise) (Hex: #00CED1) (RGB: 0, 206, 209)
9. 9 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Process
Flow Chart for 100% Cotton Knit Fabric (Turquoise Color): Turquoise is very sensitive
color. Its wash fastness is not good. Dyeing process of turquoise color is slightly
difference from other color process. Process Sequence of Turquoise Color: Fabric
loaded ↓ Treating with anti-creasing agent (Room temperature) ↓ Adding detergent
↓ Adding Antifoaming agent ↓ Caustic dosing (dosing 6min) ↓ Peroxide dosing
(60˚c; 5min) ↓ Run time 1 hour 95˚c ↓ Sample check ↓ If ok ↓ Drain out ↓ Normal
hot (70˚c, 10min) ↓ Drain ↓ Adding Peroxide Killer ↓ Run time 55˚c, 10min ↓
Adding Acetic Acid ↓ Run time 10min 55˚c (ph-4.5) ↓ Adding enzyme ↓ Run time
1hour, 55˚c ↓ Enzyme hot- 70˚c, 10min
10. 10 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] ↓ Drain
↓ Filling in the tank (run time 5min) ↓ Rinsing -4min ↓ Drain ↓ Filling in the tank ↓
Adding Leveling, Antifoaming & Anti-creasing agent (R.T.) ↓ 10min run time (R.T.) ↓
10min run time (60˚c) ↓ Color dosing-30min ↓ 10min run ↓ ½ Salt dosing-5min ↓
½ Salt dosing -5min ↓ Runtime -25min (60˚c) ↓ Sample check ↓ Soda dosing (2 g/l;
20min) ↓ Remaining Soda dosing (30min) ↓ 20 min run ↓ Temp rise 80˚c ↓ Run
time-1 hour ↓ Rinsing-5min ↓ Drain ↓
11. 11 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Filling in
the tank ↓ Run time (RT) ↓ Drain ↓ Filling in the tank ↓ Normal hot (60˚c,10min)
↓ Sample check ↓ Drain ↓ Adding Acetic Acid (room temp, run time-30min) ↓
Sample check ↓ Drain ↓ Filling in the tank ↓ Adding soaping agent (90˚c, run-10
min) ↓ Drain ↓ Sample check ↓ Filling in the tank ↓ Rinsing (5min room tem) ↓
Drain ↓ Filling in the tank ↓ Run time (5min, room tem) ↓ Drain ↓ Filling in the
tank ↓ Dosing-fixing agent (15min)
12. 12 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] ↓ Run
time (20min, room tem) ↓ Sample check ↓ Drain ↓ Filling in the tank ↓ Dosing
softener (5min) ↓ Run time (20min, room tem) ↓ Sample check ↓ Unload. Package
Dyeing (HT HP) - Cheese Yarn Dyeing-II Reactive Dyeing of cotton yarn in cheese
form: Whether it is Vinylsulphone or Bifunctional dyestuff, you may follow the
following dyeing cycle for yarn dyeing: The Chemical table shown below contains a
Code No. that has to be included time to time when the dyeing process is going on.
Code No Name of Chemical Grams/liter 1 Acetic Acid 0.5 Sequestering Agent 0.5 2
Acetic Acid 0.5 Vacuum Salt or Glauber's Salt As Recommended 3 Dyestuff O.W.F. 4
Soda Ash As Recommended 5 Acetic Acid 0.5 6 Sequestering Agent 0.5 Anionic Soap
0.5 7 Acetic Acid 0.5 8 Dye fixing Agent Not Necessary 9 Softener 1.0
13. 13 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected]
Processing Cycle for Yarn Dyeing:  Set the dye bath with soft water at ambient
temperature and as per MLR  Enter the RFD (Ready For Dyeing) yarn in to the
processing vessel.  Add Chemical [Code-1]. Circulate for 3 minutes (In -> Out) and
hold for 10 minutes. Drain.  Check pH. It should be 6 - 7. Check for channeling.  Fill
cold water, add chemicals [Code-2], Circulate for 5 minutes (In -> Out) and hold for
10 minutes.  Raise temperature to 40°C and hold for 5 minutes.  Add dissolved
dyestuff [Code-3] in 2 to 3 portions with Out -> In circulation at 40°C.  Raise
temperature to 60°C @ 1.5°C/minute and hold for 15 minutes.  Add Chemicals
[Code-4] in two parts with In->Out circulation and run for 45 minutes.  Check the
sample and drain the dye bath.  Rinse at room temperature for 5 minutes and drain.
 Give overflow rinse as per the dept of shade - 3 to 5 minutes.  Fill fresh water, add
chemicals [Code-5] and hold for 5 minutes. Drain.  Fill hot water (60°C), add
chemicals [Code-6] and circulate for 3 minutes.  Raise the temperature to 95°C and
run for 15 minutes. Drain.  Rinse at 70°C for 10 minutes followed by 5 minutes
overflow wash. Drain.  Fill fresh cold water, add chemicals [Code-7] & [Code-8] and
circulate for 3 minutes, hold for 15 minutes and then drain.  Fill Cold water, add
chemicals [Code-9], circulate for 3 minutes and hold for 10 minutes. Drain.  Unload
the batch. Notes on Dyeing:  For Shades above 7%, two soaping operations are
necessary.  Dye fixing is optional but not a substitute for thorough washing. 
Pressure difference during In->Out and Out ->In operations has to maintain a
constant. Package Dyeing Of Unmercerised Cotton Yarn With High Exhaust Reactive
Dyes
14. 14 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] · Start
Dyeing @50°C; ensure the starting bath pH be 6; adjust with Acetic Acid if necessary.
· Add salt (vacuum or Glauber’s salt) and hold for 15 minutes. · Add ½ the volume of
dissolved and filtered dyestuff and hold 10 minutes. · Add ½ the volume of dissolved
and filtered dyestuff and hold 10 minutes. · Raise the temperature @2°C/minute to
80°C and hold for 20 minutes. · Add ½ alkali (Soda ash) and hold 25 minutes. · Add ½
alkali (Soda ash) and hold for 30 minutes. · Check sample. · Drain. · Cold wash (10 +
10 minutes). · Neutralize @ 40°C with adequate qty of Acetic acid. · Cold wash – 10
minutes. · Hot Wash @ 70°C (2°C/minute) – 10 minutes. · Soap @ 95°C – 15 minutes
(1st soap). · Soap @ 95°C – 15 minutes (2nd soap) · Soap @ 95°C – 15 minutes (3rd
soap) · Hot Wash · Sample check for shade and wash fastness · Cold wash (10 + 10)
minutes · Acid wash with 1 gpl of acetic acid · In the same acid bath – cationic
softener treatment – 20 minutes · Check pH – 6 · Unload. Lycra Yarn – Pretreatment
in Package dyeing machine: Machine Circulation Cycle Settings: Cheese winding: on
plastic cones or cheeses. Cheese Weight: Not more than 500 grams/cheese 
DEMINERALIZATION: o Recipe:  Kierlon Jet B Conc = 0.05%  Lufibrol MFD = 0.05%
 @ 50°C for 2 cycles  This is done to remove the unwanted mineral contents from
the fiber.  Hot Wash = 1 cycle @ 50°C  Cold Wash = 1 cycle
15. 15 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] 
BLEACHING: o Recipe:  Soda Ash = 2.0%  Stabilizer = 0.5%  Lissopol D paste =
0.5%  Hydrogen Peroxide(50%) = 2.0%  @ 65° to 70°C for 45 to 60 minutes.  Set
the bath with chemicals other than H2O2.  Raise temperature @ 1.5°C/minute 
Hot Wash = 1 cycle @ 50°C  Peroxide Killer Treatment: o Recipe:  Organic Peroxide
killer = 0.25%  Acetic acid = 1.5 g/l  @ 50°C for 1 cycle  Drain, Cold wash  Start
Dyeing. Note: 1. Bleaching temperature should not go beyond 65 to 70°C 2. Cheese
weight = 500 grams and less is safer. 3. If you want to use regular cheese weights of
800 to 1000 grams, then the cheeses have to be conditioned in the autoclave with
moist steam at 100°C for 30 minutes, repeatedly, so that a stable shrinkage
percentage of yarn is reached. The linear shrinkage % should be 20 to 25%. Sample
dyeing process for cotton Recipe for cotton fabric Recipe for Machine Wash
Pretreatment Wetting agent (NOF) – 0.5g/L Sequestering agent (2146 – 1g/L
Anticreasing agent (JN) – 1g/L Stabilizer (SIFA) – 0.7g/L Caustic – 2g/L H2O2 – 4g/L
Detergent (Sol ax) - 0.5 gm/L Caustic -1 gm/L Hydrous - 2 gm/L Neutralization Acetic
Acid – 0.5g/L Fabric weight Enzyme treatment Enzyme UL – 1g/L Fabric cold wash
Dyeing A/Acid – 0.5g/L Leveling agent – 1g/L Ant creasing agent – 1g/L Dyes – X %
Salt – X g/l [salt & soda depend on liquor ratio
16. 16 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] but
general formula is 6:1 salt: soda, if used power soda then 3:1] Soda – X g/L Recipe
calculation After Treatment Fixing agent (Neofix ECO/CIBA fix FRD) - 0.5 g/l Soaping
agent(Lipotol PS-60) - 0.8 g/l Acetic acid - 1 g/l Dye + Salt + Water and other
chemicals Softening Acetic acid - 0.2 g/l Softener (Perrostol CWS) - 1 g/l. Are taken by
pipette in the pot, Then wash fabric keep in the pot Set. Time and temp. (60-80˚c x
60) Fabric unload Cold wash 2 times Hot wash with Rsk Dyer Shade matching.
Sequence of cotton fabric dyeing Sequence of white fabric dyeing for cotton Fabric
loading Required amount of water was taken (1:10) Required amount of water was
taken into the M/C Scouring [NOF-0.5g/l, 2146-0.5g/l, JN-0.5g/l, SIFA0.7g/l, NaOH: 3-
4g/l, H2O2 4-8g/l 110°c x 60 ́]. Fabric loading Hot wash [NOF, Soda 90°c x 20, 1:10]
Acid wash /chemical remove [A/Acid-0.5g/l, H2O2-0.5g/l, 60°c x 10 ́]. Scouring [NOF,
2146, JN, SIFA, H2O2 110°c x 60 ́] Enzyme [Enzyme: 0.5g/l; UL/Biosoft 2xl. 50°c x 60 ́
PH 4.5]. Wash Leveling [LRDS-0.5-1g/l, JN -0.5g/l10 ́ PH 6.5-7]. Acid wash /chemical
remove [A/Acid 60°c x 10 ́] Salt (Glaubar salt– 60g/l) Enzyme [Enzyme UL 50°c x 45 ́
PH-4.5] Color [60°-90°c x 60 ́] A/Acid [PH - 6 - 6.5] Soda (power soda – 15g/l) Syno
white 4BK [60°-80°c x 20 ́] RSK hot [60°c x 60 ́] Washing A/Acid (neutralization)
A/Acid Fixing [Dyaploe-Dco 30°c x 10 ́ PH 5.5] Softener [Hcs] Softener [HCS 40°c x 20
́] Washing Unload the dyed fabric
Calculation for Lab Deep: Recipe Calculation Formula: Dye = (Shade % * Weight of
the fabric in gm) / Stock solution %. Or, Required solution = WP / C Where, W =
weight of fabric, yarn, or fiber P = shade percentage C = concentration of stock
solution CC = cubic centimeter. For auxiliaries (chemicals) the formula is as below:
Required amount of solution (mls) = (g/l required * wt of substrate * LR) / (10 *
concentration (%) of stock soln) For addition of auxiliaries in solids form such as salt
the formula is: Salt in g/l = (Required amount (%) * Sample weight * LR) / 1000
Conversion formula from percentage to g/l is as below: g/l = required amount (%) *
10. Calculation of Dyeing Recipe If alkali conc. Is given in be. Then the formula to
calculate this in g/l is as follows: Required amount of solution (mls) = (g/l required *
wt of substrate * LR) / (10 * concentration (%) of stock soln) Or, = (Required amount
(%)* wt of substrate * LR) / (Concentration (%) of stock soln) Or, Required alkali soln
in c.c. = ( g/l required * wt of substrate * LR) / (10* conversion value from Be. to g/l
of alkali ) Or, Required alkali soln in c.c. = (Required amount (%) * wt of substrate *
LR) / conversion value from Be. to g/l of alkali Example: Suppose a lab deep of a
fabric sample (1*1 ribs) has to be formed with following dyes & chemicals: Dyes: 1.
Rema Blue RR = 1.122% 2. React Red KHW = 2.014% 3. React Yellow KHW = 1.486%
Salt = 70% Soda Ash (conc.20%) = 5 g/l Caustic Soda (38 Be) = 1.32% L: R = 1:8 Sample
Wt. = 5 gm
18. 18 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] % Stock
Soln = 1 Therefore, recipe calculation for dyes and auxiliaries in g/l will be as follows:
For dyes: We know, Dye = (Shade % * Weight of the fabric in gm)/ (Stock solution %)
For, 1. Rema Blue RR = (1.122*5)/1=5.61 g/l 2. React Red KHW = (2.014*5)/1= 10.07
g/l 3. React Yellow KHW = (1.486*5)/1= 7.43 g/l. For auxiliaries: We know, Salt in g/l
= (Required amount (%) * Sample weight * LR) / 1000 Required Salt = (70*5*8)/1000
= 2.8 gm. For Soda ash (conc.20%): We know, Required amount of solution (mls) =
(g/l required * wt of substrate * LR) / (10 * concentration (%) of stock soln) Required
amount of soda ash in C.C. = (5*5*8)/(10*20) = 1.0 For Caustic soda (38 Be.): We
know, Required alkali soln in c.c. = (Required amount (%) * wt of substrate * LR)
/conversion value from Be. to g/l of alkali Required caustic soda = (1.32*5*8)/441 =
0.12 c.c. [Since 38 °Be.NaOH= 441 gm NaOH 100% per 1lit NaOH soln] Extra Water
required: = M:L – (required water to make soln of dyes & auxiliaries) = (5*8) –
[(5.61+10.07+7.43) + (1.0+0.12) ] = 40 – 24.112 = 15.77 (Salt is added in solid form)
Equipments of Recipe Section: Microprocessor pH Meter (Hanna Instrument) Digital
pipette Digital Weighting Meter with Glass Box (Explorer, USA) There are different
matching systems followed in Labs. They are: Tube light matching. Sun light
matching. Ultra Violet matching. Sodium light matching (show room).
19. 19 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Process
Sequence of Lab Dip: Lab dip plays an important role in dyeing process. Bulk dyeing
process completely depends on the lab dip development work. Lab dip is completely
managed as the following sequence. Lab Dip Requisition from buyer ↓ Entry in the
computer ↓ First recipe is given by swatch/pantone number ↓ First correction ↓
Second correction ↓ Grading of sample (A, B, C, D) ↓ Yarn and knit sample send to
buyer ↓ Approved by buyer ↓ Order for bulk production ↓ Production card with
approved sample and recipe send to production section. Process Flow
Chart/Sequence of Dyeing Lab At first dyeing is performed in dyeing laboratory and
then starting for bulk production. A lots of work is done in the dyeing laboratory. In
the dyeing lab, lab dip or sample is developed by the dyeing master. Lab dip plays an
important role in shade matching & this is an important task before bulk production.
Process Sequence of Dyeing Lab: Sample/Swatch/Panton no. / TCX no. / TPX no. from
the buyer ↓ Determination of sample’s possible color combination by the help of
Spectrophotometer or manual ↓ Dispersion by autodoser ↓ Trial dyeing of first
recipe ↓ Unload ↓ Normal wash ↓ Hot wash with detergent
20. 20 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] ↓ Oven
drying ↓ Ironing ↓ Shade matching in light box ( If Ok then send to buyer for
approval) ↓ If not ok ↓ First correction takes from Spectrophotometer or manually
↓ Dispersion by autodoser ↓ Trial dyeing of first recipe ↓ Unload ↓ Normal wash
↓ Hot wash with detergent ↓ Oven drying ↓ Ironing ↓ Shade matching in light box
( If Ok then send to buyer for approval) ↓ If not ok ↓ Second correction takes from
Spectrophotometer or manually ↓ Dispersion by auto doser ↓ Trial dyeing of first
recipe ↓ Unload ↓ Normal wash ↓ Hot wash with detergent ↓ Oven drying ↓
Ironing ↓ Shade matching in light box
21. 21 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] ↓ If ok ↓
Send for buyer’s approval ↓ Bulk production by considering the buyer’s approved
sample as standard Note: This procedure is applicable for yarn or fabric dyeing.
Reactive Dyes - Shade Card 1 Reactive Dyes are used for all cellulosic Fibres, Silk &
Viscose Rayon. These colours react with cellulose in presence of alkali and also form
chemical linkage resulting excellent fastness. Reactive HE' Dyes are reactive dyes
containing Bismonochlorotriazinyl group as reactive redical and high fixation on
dyeing fabric blends or, Terycot.These colours are suitable for exhaust dyeing (801C)
of medium and heavy depths. Salt and Alkali Requirements: Depth of Shade Salt gm
per lit Soda Ash gm per (O.W.F.) (Na2 .SO4) (Na2CO3) 0 - 0.5% 30 10 0.5 - 1.0% 45 15
1 - 2% 60 15 2 - 4% 70 20 Above 4% 90 20 Dyeing at 800C for 1 hour of the final alkali
addition. Reactive VS' Dyes are reactive dyes containing Vinyl Sulfone groups as
reactive radical Suitable for exhaust dyeing (60°C) , continuous dyeing and printing.
Dyeing at 60°C Material to Liquor Ratio 1:2 to 1:3 1:4 to 1:6 Glauber's Salt gms/lit 50
50 30% NaOH Soln. ml/lit 3-6 2-3 Soda Ash gms/lit 5 5 Trisodium Phosphate gms/lit
30 20-25 Dyeing at 600 C for 60 minutes final alkali addition. After-treatment Rinse in
cold water, Hot rinse, soap at boil with 2 gm/l neutral detergent for 15 minutes, Hot
rinse, Cold rinse & Dry.
22. 22 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] NOTES: 
For T. Blue G. dyeing use 50 gms/lit Glauber's Salt for exhaustion and 15 to 20 gms/lit
Soda Ash alongwith 3-5 gms/ lit NaOH (72°Tw) in last twc ends at 800C 'or fixation 
For Reactive Yellow FG, Red C2G & Red 5B, 80 gms/lit Glaubers Salt gives better
colour yield  In case or Reactive Brill. Blue R only 1 quarter of required Salt is added
over first and second turn. The remaining Salt is added only after the addition of
Alkali. REACTIVE DYES-TANACTIVE HE BRAND DYES DYEING PROCEDURE-DYEING
METHODS - Winch, jet, package & beam dyeing machines. These dyes are specially
designed for exhaust dyeing methods. The dyeing method selection depends upon
the type of substrate to be dyed and the machinery to be used for dyeing. Depth of
Shade Salt Unmercerised cotton(gm/l) Mercerized cotton or Viscose Rayon Soda Ash
(gms/l) Fixation time (min.) Upto 0.10% 10 5 10 30 0.11-0.30% 20 10 10 30 0.31-
0.50% 30 20 10 45 0.51-1.00% 45 30 15 45 1.01-2.00% 60 40 15 45 2.01-4.00% 70 55
20 60 Above 4.00% 90 65 20 60 Method No. 1: Salt addition in portions (suitable for
mercerized yarn) This process is recommended for non-circulating liquor machinery
and it is suitable for all depths of shade.
23. 23 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Method
No. 2: Salt addition at start (Suitable for unmercerised yarn) This method is
recommended for machines with liquor circulation and it is suitable for medium to
heavy depth of shades. Method No. 3: Both salt & alkali addition at start The method
is recommended for machines with liquor circulation, primarily for the dyeing of
medium - heavy binary combinations. It is suitable for unmercerised cotton. Note 1:
A mixture of soda ash and caustic soda is recommended alkali for this method. Depth
of Shade Soda ash gms/l Caustic Soda 100% gms/l Upto 1.0% 5 0.2 1.01 to above 5
0.5 Method No. 4: (Dyeing Pale Shade) (Garment dyeing) The method is
recommended for machines with microprocessor controlled addition system for
dyeing pale shades (less than 0.5% depth) and for all shades on mercerized cotton &
viscose packages
24. 24 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Method
No. 5: Isothermal Method (Dyeing heavy shades garment) The method is
recommended for machines with microprocessor controlled addition systems for
medium to heavy depths (>than 0.5% depth) on unmercerised cotton. Dyeing
method for Jigger machines- Due to high temperature dyeing the problems of off-
shade selvedges of too pale selvedges are often encountered in dyeing with these
machines. The following precautions hence should be taken to avoid such problems.
1. To use closed type jiggers so that a uniform temperature is possible across the
width of fabric. 2. Batch the fabric evenly. 3. Maintain the dye bath at minimum of
85-90o C during salt stage. 4. Adjust the dye bath temperature 85-90o C to ensure
that fabric is maintained at minimum 80o C during alkali addition stage. Procedure -
Set the dye bath at 90o C with resist salt 2 gms/l. Now add 1/2 amt. of dye and run
one end. Then add remaining 1/2 amt. & run another one end. Add 1/2 amt. of salt &
run one end. Add remaining 1/2 amt. Of salt and run another end. Maintain 80o C
temperature continue to run for 2 ends. Now add 1/2 amt. of soda ash & run for one
end. Then add remaining 1/2 amt. Soda ash & run for another one end. Then add
remaining 1/2 amt. soda ash & run for another one end. Then run for 4 ends or more
if required & wash. (1 end =10 minutes) Dyeing method for cotton / polyester blend-
The one bath two stage dyeing method for polyester / cotton blend is applicable on
jet, beam or package dyeing machines. 2 gm/l Buffer pH 5 (5.5) X% GAAYACTIVE 'HE'
dye 1 gm/l Anionic dispersant 50 gms/l Salt X% Disperse Dye 15 gms/l T.S.P. Soda ash
25. 25 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Salt and
alkali requirements- Depth of Shade % on total weight of goods Salt (gms/l) Soda Ash
(gms/l) Upto 0.2% 15 10 0.21-0.4% 20 15 0.41-0.80% 30 15 0.81-1.6% 50 20 Aabove
1.6% 70 20 Washing - off procedure- In order to obtain maximum wet-fastness
properties, brightness and purity of shades with consistent dyeing results, it is
essential to give a through 'Soaping' to clear-off unreached hydrolyzed dye form the
dyed fabric. The dyed fabric is rinsed repeatedly in cold water to remove most of the
alkali, salt and unfixed dye present and rinse again in warm water not higher than
60o C. then run in a bath containing: Anionic detergent - 1-2 gms/liter for 15 minutes
at the boil. Then rinse in warm water (up to 60o C) and finally in cold water. The
most satisfactory results in washing-off, particularly for piece goods, are obtained by
employing an Open soaper or perforated beam-washing machine. If such
equipments are not available, conventional ones like jig or winch may be used. For
yarn in the hank form open-vat is employed and for yarn in packaged form the
package-dyeing machine itself used. About Blend Dyeing: Blends are any textile
material from fibre through yarn to fabric which are deliberate combinations of
chemically or physically different fibrous polymer.cotton and Polyester blend is an
example of chemically different blend and Cotton and Viscose is physically different
blend because both are cellulosic. Object of Blending: 1. Dilution of an expensive,
lusterious fibre by blending with cheaper substitute. 2. To incorporate of more
durable component to extendthe useful life.e.g. Core spun yarn. 3. A compromise to
take advantage of disirable performance characteristics, contribute by both fibre
component.e.g. P/C blends to get comfort of cotton, strength and crease recovery of
polyester. 4. The development of novel fabric design for garments incorporating
multicolour effect.e.g. Polyester part is dyed and cotton part undyed.
26. 26 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] 5. The
presence of attractive appearance using byy combination of yarn of different luster,
crimp is possible by blending. 6. Colourant modification is possible by blending. 7.
Finishing process modification. 8. Improved moisture absorption. 9. Reduce
anstistatic characteristics pilling. Process Sequence of P/C Blend Dyeing: Desizing ↓
Scouring ↓ Drying ↓ Heat setting ↓ Mercerization ↓ Drying ↓ PET dye ↓
Reduction clearing ↓ Drying ↓ Singing ↓ Cotton dye ↓ Washing ↓ Soaping ↓
Washing ↓ Drying
27. 27 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Dyeing
P/C Blend with Disperse and Vat Dye: Recipe: Disperse dye
----------------------------------------X% Vat dye-------------------------------------------------Y%
Dispersing agent------------------------------------o.5-1% Wetting
agent-----------------------------------------0.5-1% PH-------------------------------------------------
4-5 with acetic acid(30%) Procedure: Prepar the bath with dispersing agent,wetting
agent and acetic acid.Treatment for 10-15 minute at 50-60 degree C.Then add
disperse and vat dye in the bath.Dyeing for 10-15 minute.Raise temp. up to 130
degree C in 60-90 minute.After PET part dyeing cool to 80 degree for proper levelling
then add caustic and hydrose and dyeing 15 minute.Cooling to 60 degree c and
dyeing for 30 minute for better exhaustion.Rinse with cold water and oxidation with
hydrogen per oxide for 15 minute at 50 degree C.Then rinseing with cold water and
soaping 95 degree c for 25 minute using 2g/l lissapol.Hot and cold rinse and then
final wash off. Dyeing P/C blend with Disperse and Reactive Dye (Thermosol Process):
Recipe: Disperse dye -----------------------------------X% Reactive dye
----------------------------------Y% Soda ash-----------------------------------------5-20g/l
Migration inhibitor ----------------------------10-20g/l Wetting
agent----------------------------------1-2g/l Dyeing Procedure: Padding: Padding with
disperse and reactive dye at 20-30 degree C. Liquor pick up 60-80%. Predrying:
Partial drying is done to avoid migration of dyes.Here keep m.c 25%. Drying:
Complete and even dyeing at 110-150 degree C. Thermofixation: It's done at 180-220
degree C about 30-45 sec. to fixation dye.Polyester dyeing complete here Alkali
Padding: Padding at 20-30 degree C.Pick up 50-60%.Caustic and salt used for Procion
mx and Procion H. Steaming: Steaming is done 103-105 degree C about 30 sec. for
procion mx and 45-75 sec.for procion H. Wash off: A typical 8 box wash off is given
by Cold,hot water and detergent. Box-1:-------------------------------------water 60 degree
C. Box -2&3:-------------------------------------Detergent 5 gm/l at boil Box-
4&5:---------------------------------------water at the boil Box-
7;-------------------------------------------water 60 degree C. Box-
8:-------------------------------------------Cold water.
Classification of the methods for dyeing of P/C blend: Exhaust dyeing method or
batch dyeing method- This is again classified in the following three groups- 1. Two
bath dyeing 2. One bath one step dyeing 3. One bath two step dyeing method
Thermosol Dyeing method - It is again classified in to two groups- 1. Continuous
dyeing- 2. Pad batch process (semi-continuous) Note-In continuous dyeing process
may be single bath or double bath. EXHAUST DYEING: Two bath dyeing 1. This is the
process in which we have to dyed first polyester part in the HTHP beam dyeing
machine or HTHP jet dyeing machine and the cotton part is dyed in the jigger
machine. 2. Batch process 3. Machine used for dyeing of polyester part-  HTHP
Beam dyeing machine( First commercialized HTHP machine)  HTHP jet dyeing
machine 4. Machine used for dyeing of cotton part- 5. Jigger dyeing machine used
29. 29 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] PROCESS
ROUTE P/C BLEND DYEING: MACHINE FOR POLYESTER DYEING: HTHP beam dyeing
machine- No need to explain the whole process of dyeing in beam dyeing machine.
Only some important points we will discuss about it- Advantages & features: 1.
Loading and unloading of the fabric is easy and time of dyeing is short. 2. Dyeing in
open width form. 3. Most suitable for those fabrics that might crease, extend or
abrade when dyed in machines where the fabric is in motion. 4. Not appropriate for
compact fabrics 5. De-aeration is essential to avoid paler dyed spots. 6. A wetting
agent helps to eliminate air bubbles within the fabric roll. Recipe used HTHP dyeing:
 Disperse dye- X%(depends upon the shade)  Dispersing agent-1g/l  Sequestering
agent-1-2g/l(If required)  Defoamers -.5 to 1g/l  Levelling agent-.5 to 1 g/l 
Wetting agent- .5g/l  Acetic acid-enough to get ph=5-6
30. 30 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Flow of
the liquor usually in the in-to-out direction, but it can be reversed. Out-to-in flow can
compress the material causing flattening and glazing, particularly on the inner layers.
 Material stationary and liquor is moving.  Batching is very important; during
batching tension should be uniform and optimum.  M:Lratio is 1:10  Both cloth and
yarn can be dyed on this machine. Major Chemicals Used in Textile Wet Processing
Introduction: Chemical analysis always involves the use of different chemicals. In
order to assure accurate analysis results, the chemicals used need to be
standardised, the procedures must be followed exactly and the data obtained have
to be analysed statistically. If an instrument is used, it should be maintained and
calibrated properly. In a chemical analysis, especially involving quantitative analysis,
the amount of chemical used is critical and can be determined by the measurement
of concentration if it is a solution, or by weight, if it is a solid. Sometimes, the
concentration of a solution can be easily determined by using another known
solution through titration. For acids and bases, if the concentration is sufficiently low,
the pH concept is generally used to represent the concentration of the acid or base
in the aqueous solution. For the analysis of common chemicals, such as caustic soda,
acetic acid, soda ash, sodium dithionite, hydrogen peroxide, and so on, titrimetric
analysis and gravimetric analysis are widely used. For the analysis of surfactants and
other chemicals, qualitative spot tests and specialised instruments should be utilized.
Before the analysis of chemicals in textile wet processing we should to know about
concentration, titration, weighing, pH etc. Now a short identity of these is given
below. Concentration: The concentration of a solute is usually expressed as the
amount of a solute in a unit volume of a solution. The amount of a solute can be in
grams (g), kilograms (kg), moles (mol), or normals (n). The unit volume of a solution
is always in litres (l). Titration: Titration is a method by which the concentration of an
unknown solution can be determined using a standardised solution with a known
concentration through a stoichiometric reaction. The end point of the chemical
reaction is indicated by the colour change of an indicator or an instrumental reading.
The standard solution of a known reagent is the titrant and the unknown solution is
the titrand. Weighing: Weighing is an important operation in gravimetric analysis.
Usually it involves the use of an
31. 31 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] electronic
balance with a minimum readability of 0.1 mg. In order to ensure reproducible
results, sample handling is very critical especially when hygroscopic materials are
weighed. pH: pH is a scale between 0 and 14 used to express the concentration of
hydronium (H3O+, or H+) ions in a solution. It is defined by Equation. pH = – log [H+]
Major Chemicals Used in Wet Processing: Acids, bases, salts, surfactants, oxidising
agents and reducing agents are the major chemicals those are widely used in wet
processing industry. Acid: An acid (from the Latin acidus/acēre meaning sour) is a
substance which reacts with a base. Commonly, acids can be identified as tasting
sour, reacting with metals such as calcium, and reacting with bases such as sodium
carbonate. Aqueous acids have a pH under 7, with acidity increasing the lower the
pH. Chemicals or substances having the property of an acid are said to be acidic.The
following standard solutions are used in the acid analysis. They are usually prepared
in advance and consumed within a certain period of time. 1. H2SO4, 0.1 N, 0.25N, 0.5
N and 1 N; 2. HCl, 0.1N, 0.25 N, 0.5 N and 1 N; 3. HNO3, 0.1 N; There are two types of
acid 1. Inorganic acid 2. Organic acid Inorganic Acid: Inorganic acid are Sulphuric acid
(H2SO4), Hydrochloric acid (HCl), Nitric acid (HNO3), Phosphoric acid (H3PO4), etc.
Sulphuric Acid (H2SO4): The concentration of sulphuric acid (H2SO4) can be
determined by using Baume’s (ºBé) hydrometer. The titration of sulphuric acid is
carried out using sodium hydroxide in the presence of phenolphthalein as an
indicator. The end point is reached when a faint pink color is persistent. HCl The
concentration of hydrochloric acid (HCl) can be determined using a hydrometer, in a
very similar manner to the determination of sulphuric acid concentration.
Hydrochloric acid is a volatile acid at high concentration.
32. 32 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] HNO3
The concentration of nitric acid (HNO3) can be determined using a hydrometer. If
titration is used to determine the concentration, phenolphthalein is the indicator.
H3PO4 The concentration of phosphoric acid (H3PO4) can be determined in a similar
manner to that discussed for H2SO4, HCl and HNO3. Organic Acids: Organic acids are
HCOOH (formic acid), Acetic acid etc. HCOOH HCOOH (formic acid) is the simplest
organic acid in terms of its organic structure. Concentrated HCOOH is usually 88% in
strength. Since formic acid is a volatile acid, precautions should be taken to prevent
loss of strength in the sample preparation stage. The concentration of formic acid
can be determined by acid– base titration as well as by redox titration owing to the
reduction power of formic acid. CH3COOH Acetic acid is a weak acid. It is available at
different concentrations. Highly concentrated acetic acid at 98% and above is called
glacial acetic acid because its freezing point range is between 13.3 ºC (98%) and 16.7
ºC (100%). Glacial acetic acid is flammable. The concentration of acetic acid can
easily be determined using acid–base titration with phenolphthalein as an indicator.
The water used should be free from CO2, prepared by boiling before use. Base: A
base in chemistry is a substance that can accept hydrogen cations (protons) or more
generally, donate a pair of valence electrons. A soluble base is referred to as an alkali
if it contains and releases hydroxide ions (OH−) quantitatively.Bases are two types 1.
Inorganic and 2. Organic bases Inorganic Bases: Inorganic bases are Sodium
hydroxide (NaOH), Sodium carbonate (Na2CO3), Ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH) etc.
NaOH Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) is also called caustic soda. It is available in solution
at different concentrations or in solid form. Commercial NaOH often contains a little
sodium carbonate (Na2CO3) as a by-product of the manufacturing process. This
small amount of Na2CO3 will usually not influence its use in textile wet processes.
33. 33 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Owing to
its strong alkalinity, NaOH can react with CO2 in air easily. It can also absorb water
very quickly. Na2CO3 Sodium carbonate (Na2CO3) is also called soda ash. In textile
wet processes, it is often available in anhydrous form. Its purity can be > 99%
Na2CO3 (58% Na2O). If the concentration of a Na2CO3 solution needs to be
determined, a titrimetric method identical to the ones listed for NaOH in this section
can be used. If the existence of bicarbonate is a concern (very rarely in textile wet
processes) the following method can be used to determine the content of
bicarbonate in sodium carbonate. NH4OH Ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH) is a water
solution of ammonia gas (NH3). It can also be called aqua ammonia or ammonia
water. The concentration determination can be done using either a hydrometer or
an acid–base titration. Since ammonia is volatile, the concentration determination
should be done with care to avoid any loss of strength. If a hydrometer is used, the
sample and the hydrometer should be cooled to 5–10 ºC. Table 4.75 lists the
relationship between the concentration (% w/w) and ºBé of NH4OH at 10 ºC. Acid–
base titration can also be used to determine the concentration of NH4OH. Organic
Bases: Organic bases are Triethanolamine, N (CH2CH2OH) 3, Ethylenediamine
(H2NCH2)2 etc. Triethanolamine Triethanolamine, N (CH2CH2OH) 3, is a strong
organic base miscible with water, methanol and acetone. The pH of its 0.1N aqueous
solution is 10.5. Analytical grade N(CH2CH2OH)3 is a highly hygroscopic and viscous
liquid with a pale yellow or no colour. Its melting point is between 18 and 21 ºC. Its
density is about 1.12. Ethylenediamine Ethylenediamine, (H2NCH2)2, is a strong
organic base miscible with water and alcohol. It is a colourless and viscous liquid with
a density of 0.898 and a melting point of 8 ºC. The pH of a 25% aqueous solution is
11.5. Like triethanolamine, it is an aliphatic amine soluble in water and, therefore,
can be determined by the acid–base titration with methyl orange as an indicator.
Salts Salts are the products of the acid-base neutralisation reaction. The salts used
most in textile wet processes are common salt (NaCl, sodium chloride) and Glauber’s
salt (Na2SO4, sodium
34. 34 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] sulphate).
The content analysis of salts is usually conducted by using a precipitation titration
method which may be followed by filtering and weighing procedures to obtain the
final results. Sodium chloride Industrial grade NaCl has a content of 92–98%. The
precipitation titration can be conducted using 0.1 N AgNO3 as the titrant and 5%
K2CrO4 as the indicator (the Mohr method). The sample chloride solution should be
buffered with calcium carbonate to a pH between 6.3 and 7.2 in order to avoid any
interference from other ions present in the solution. Sodium sulphate Na2SO4 is
available in two types, anhydrate and decahydrate. Its content analysis can be
conducted based on the precipitation method using barium chloride (BaCl2). An
excess amount of barium chloride is added into the sample solution which has been
filtered beforehand to form BaSO4 precipitate as indicated by the following reaction:
Na2SO4 + BaCl2 →2NaCl + BaSO4↓ Surfactants Surfactants are widely used in textile
wet processes for the purpose of wetting, dispersing, emulsifying and cleaning. The
molecular structures of surfactants have a distinctive hydrophilic moiety and a
distinctive hydrophobic moiety. When they are used at a sufficient concentration,
the surface/interface tension of the solution is lowered and micelles are formed,
which give the solution extra properties. According to their ionic properties in
aqueous solution, traditional surfactants can be divided into four categories: anionic,
cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic. Surfactants are four types 1. Anionic surfactants ,
2. Cationic surfactants, 3. Non-ionic surfactants and 4. Amphoteric surfactants
Amphoteric surfactants: Amphoteric surfactants contain both anions and cations.
They should show positive results when tested using either the basic methylene blue
test for anionic surfactants or the alternative bromophenol blue test for cationic
surfactants. A saturated bromine aqueous solution can also be used to determine
the type of amphoteric surfactant. Add 5 ml of 1% sample solution to 1.5 ml
saturated bromine aqueous solution.
35. 35 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Observe
the colour of the precipitate. Heat the mixture and observe the change in the
precipitate. If the precipitate is a yellow to yellow-orange colour and is dissolved to
form a yellow solution after heating, the sample is an imidazoline or alanine type of
amphoteric surfactant. If the precipitate is a white to yellow colour and insoluble
after heating, the sample is the other type of amphoteric surfactant. Oxidising agents
and reducing agents Oxidising agents are mainly used for bleaching and reducing
agents are mainly used for vat dyeing in textile wet processes. These agents are
often strong chemicals and need to be handled with care. The assay of these agents
is almost always based on the redox titration. In a redox reaction, an oxidising agent
(oxidant) is reduced (it gains electrons) and a reducing agent (reductant) isoxidised
(it loses electrons). The redox reaction can be written as two half reactions shown
below: Oxidation reaction: reducing agent → oxidized form + n e– Reduction
reaction: oxidising agent + n e– → reduced form The net reaction is: reducing agent +
oxidising agent → oxidised form + reduced form Oxidising Agents: Hydrogen
peroxide Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) can be titrated with potassium permanganate
(KMnO4) in an acid medium. H2O2 is the reducing agent and KMnO4 is the oxidising
agent. Sodium Hypochlorite In hypochlorite bleaching of textiles, active chlorine is
the species measured for the control of the bleaching process. Iodometry is the
method used to determine the content of active chlorine. Sodium perborate Either
sodium permanganate or potassium iodide can be used to titrate the sodium
perborate (NaBO3•4H2O). Dissolve 0.2 g of sample in 200 ml distilled water, add 40
ml 6 N H2SO4, and titrate with 0.1 N sodium permanganate until a pink colour
appears. Reducing Agents: Sodium hydrosulphite (Na2S2O4) It is the Dilute of 10 ml
40% formaldehyde with 50 ml distilled water. Glucose Glucose (C6H12O6) can be
used as a reducing agent in vat and sulphur dye applications. It can
36. 36 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] be
analysed by iodometry. Accurately prepare a 0.5% glucose solution. Sodium
thiosulphate Sodium thiosulphate (Na2S2O3•5H2O) can be titrated easily by
iodometry. Accurately weigh a 5 g sample and dissolve it in 500 ml distilled water to
make a 1% sample solution. Miscellaneous Chemicals Ethanol The specific gravity of
ethanol (C2H5OH) is directly related to its content. Table 4.7 lists the relationship
between the volume% (weight %) and the specific gravity of ethanol at 15 ºC.
Ethylene glycol and glycerol ASTM method D161518 may be used to estimate the
concentration of ethylene glycol and glycerol in an aqueous medium. Others Urea
Urea is tested for the content of nitrogen using H2SO4 and formaldehyde. The
indicator used is a mixed indicator containing 0.5 g phenolphthalein and 0.5 g thymol
phthalein dissolved in 100 ml ethanol. A 25% formaldehyde solution used should be
neutralised before use. The procedures of the method are briefly described below. 1.
Dissolve 1 g fully dried sample in a small amount of water; add 3 ml concentrated
H2SO4; mix well and heat on a hot plate. 2. Heat until the release of CO2 (bubbling)
has stopped and dense white smoke (SO3) is emitted; leave to cool down. 3. Add 50
ml distilled water and 2 drops of methyl red indicator. 4. Neutralise the acidity of the
solution with 6 N NaOH added dropwise until the red colour changes to a pink
colour; add 0.5 N NaOH slowly to change the solution colour to a faint pink. 5. Add
40 ml 25% neutralised formaldehyde solution and 5 drops of the mixed indicator;
stand for a few minutes. Fluorescent whitening agents Fluorescent whitening agents
(FWA) are a special type of chemical that can significantly increase the apparent
whiteness of treated fabrics. They absorb UV radiation and re-emit the absorbed
energy in the blue visible light range which makes the treated fabrics appear whiter.
The easiest test for the effect of FWAs is simply a visual examination of the
whiteness of treated fabrics. Manufacturer’s recommendations should be followed
in order to achieve the best whitening effect. Ethylenediamine tetraacetate (EDTA)
Ethylenediamine tetraacetate (EDTA) can form a few different water soluble salts
with calcium, potassium and sodium, for example, calcium disodium, trisodium and
tetrasodium salts. EDTA tetrasodium salt is used most widely in many industrial
applications as a powerful chelating
37. 37 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] agent. Its
1% solution has a pH of 11.3. It can chelate with many divalent and trivalent metal
ions to form watersoluble metal complexes. HTHP BEAM DYEING MACHINE:
Sectional diagram of a high-temperature beam dyeing machine Disadvantages of
beam dyeing machine:  —Fabric of different width can not be dyed together on a
single beam.  —The dyed fabric may be display moiré effect if it is tightly due to
shrinkage.  —Uneven dyeing may occur if the beam is fully loaded, as the dye liquor
has penetrate several layers of fabric. JET DYEING MACHINE:
38. 38 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] HTHP jet
dyeing machine: The jet dyeing machine is an extension of the HPHT winch dyeing
machine. Jet dyeing machine developed by BURLINGTON Industries and first
machine developed in 1963 by Gaston country Machine co. of U.S.A Features:  Both
material and liquor is moving.  Dyeing in rope form.  Fabric speed usually 200-
250mt/min  The jet dyeing can usually operated up to 1400c under high pressure
and having capacity capable of dyeing 100 to 150 kg of fabric at a time Chemicals
added  Acids  Buffers  Sequestering agent  Anticrease agent  Defoamers 
Levelling agent DEVELOPMENT IN JET DYEING MACHINE:  Soft flow jet- slow motion
of fabric. Suitable for knitted fabric  Super jet dyeing machine- M:L is 1:1 
Aerodynamic jet dyeing machine  Jet created by mixture of air + water  M:L is 1:1 ,
drain out at a 130c  Multi-nozzle sot flow jet dyeing machine Advantages of jet
dyeing machine: 1. Fabric of two different width can be dyed at a time so that two
lots can be combined together for dyeing. 2. No special batching device is required
for winding the fabric as in beam dyeing. 3. There is no flattening effect or uneven
dyeing on the fabric as in beam dyeing
Disadvantages: 1. There is possibility of entanglement of light-weight fabric during
dyeing. 2. Loose fibres removed from the fabric may get redeposited on the fabric
surface as well as on the interior of the jet dyeing vessel, this problem does not arise
in beam dyeing. 3. Yarn can not be dyed in a jet dyeing machine whereas it can be
dyed in a beam dyeing machine. PROBLEMS- 1. Foaming problem 2. Oligomers
problem 3. Rope marks Machine used for cotton dyeing: Jigger dyeing machine 
Open jigger or closed jigger dyeing machine-  Closed jigger specially for vat dyeing. 
Liquor is stationary and fabric is moving.  500 t0 1000 meter of fabric is processed in
one time.  M:L ratio in jigger dyeing machine is about 1:5.  Usually take 10 min. for
each passage One bath two step dyeing- One-bath dyeing processes, using both the
dyes such as following in the same dye bath. 1. Disperse and vat dyes. 2. Disperse
and reactive dyes. 3. Disperse and direct dyes. Dyeing machine: Name of the m/c:
Dyeing machine Brand Name: Dilmenlar Manufacturing Company: Turkey Year of
Manufacturing: 2004 Machine capacity: 150 kg No. of nozzle: 02 Maximum
Temperature: 135°c Motor: 01 Winch Motor: 01 Pump Motor: 01 Jigger dyeing
machine Jigger dyeing machine is the most commonly used for dyeing all kinds of
cotton fabric. There are mainly two types of jigger dyeing machine. One is open
jigger dyeing machine and other is closed jigger dyeing machine. The open jigger
dyeing machine is shown in the figure. This machine consists of V shaped stainless
steel vessel. Two rollers are fitted above the vessel called as cloth rollers. These
rollers are rotated by power. Out of these two rollers one roller is driven by a motor
which is called take
40. 40 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] up roller
and the other roller from which the cloth is delivered is called let off roller. When all
the cloth is passed from the let off roller to the take up roller, it is called as one end
or one turn. The number of ends or turns depends upon the type of the fabric and
also the percentage of the shade. Jigger dyeing machine Initially, a large length of (50
kg) cloth is wound on the let off roller and take up roller is then driven by the power.
After one end is taken, the take up becomes let off roller. These backward and
forward movements of cloth through the dye liquor absorb more and more dye. The
capacity of the jigger is 100 to 150 gallons. In the modern jigger, automatic devices
are fitted along with the timing switch by using reversing will take place
automatically. When dyeing all the dye liquor should not be added at one time. The
dye liquor should be added in batch wise, in order to get even shade on the cloth. In
the present scenario, closed types of jiggers are used. The main advantage is to
prevent heat loss and chemical loses by evaporation. This type of jigger is very
important for dyeing vat, Sulphur etc. Advantages of Jigger Dyeing Machine 1. The
cloth can be dyed in open width form of full width form. 2. Chemical and heat loses
are less when compared to winch dyeing machine 3. The material to liquor ratio is
1:3 (or) 1:4 which saves considerable amount of chemical cost and steam cost.
Disadvantages of Jigger Dyeing Machine It exerts lot of tension in the warp direction
and because of this normally woolen, knitted fabric, silk etc are not dyed in jigger
dyeing machine. Modern Machinery Used in Dyeing Process: Modern dyeing
machines are made from stainless steels. Steels containing up to 4% molybdenum
are favored to withstand the acid conditions that are common. A dyeing machine
consists essentially of a vessel to contain the dye liquor, provided with equipment for
heating, cooling and circulating the liquor into and around the goods to be dyed or
moving the goods through the dye liquor. The kind of machine employed depends on
the nature of the goods to be dyed. Labor and energy costs are high in relation to
total dyeing costs: the dyers aim is to shorten dyeing times to save steam and
electrical power and to avoid spoilage of goods. Modern dyeing machine
41. 41 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] The
conical-pan loose-stock machine is a widely used machine. Fibers are held in an inner
truncated conical vessel while the hot dye liquor is mechanically pumped through.
The fiber mass tends to become compressed in the upper narrow half of the cone,
assisting efficient circulation. Leveling problems are less important as uniformity may
be achieved by blending the dyed fibers prior to spinning. The Hussong machine is
the traditional apparatus. It has a long, square-ended tank as a dye bath into which a
framework of poles carrying hanks can be lowered. The dye liquor is circulated by an
impeller and moves through a perforated false bottom that also houses the open
steam pipe for heating. In modern machines, circulation is improved at the points of
contact between hank and pole. This leads to better leveling and elimination of
irregularities caused by uneven cooling. In package-dyeing machines dye color may
be pumped in rather two directions: 1. Through the perforated central spindle and
outward through the package or 2. By the reverse path into the outer layers of the
package and out of the spindle. In either case levelness is important. Some package-
dyeing machines are capable of working under pressure at temperatures up to 130C.
The winch is the oldest piece of dyeing machine and takes its name from the slated
roller that moves an endless rope of cloth or endless belt of cloth at full width
through the dye liquor. Pressurized-winch machines have been developed in the U.S.
In an entirely new concept; the Gaston County jet machine circulates fabric in rope
form through a pipe by means of a high-pressure jet of dye color. The jet machine is
increasingly important in high-temperature dyeing of synthetic fibers, especially
polyester fabrics. Another machine is the jig. It has a V-shaped trough holding the
dye color and guide rollers to carry the cloth at full width between two external,
powered rollers, the cloth is wound onto each roller alternately, that is, the cloth is
first moved forward, then backward through the dye color until dyeing is complete.
Modern machines, automatically controlled and programmed, can be built to work
under pressure. It was found that in using Winch machines, there were some
inherent problems. So the Jet dyeing machines when they came up in the 1970’s
were specifically designed to overcome those shortcomings. In the Jet dyeing
machine the reel is completely eliminated. A closed tubular system exists where the
fabric is placed. For transporting the fabric through the tube a jet of dye liquor is
supplied through a venturi. The Jet creates turbulence. This helps in dye penetration
along with preventing the fabric from touching the walls of the tube. As the fabric is
often exposed to comparatively higher concentrations of liquor within the transport
tube, so little dye bath is needed in the bottom of the vessel. This is just enough for
the smooth movement from rear to front. Aqueous jet dyeing machines generally
employs a driven winch reel along with a jet nozzle. The following diagram explains
the functioning of a Jet dyeing machine:
42. 42 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Types of
Jet Dyeing Machine: In deciding the type of dyeing machine the following features
are generally taken into consideration for differentiating. They are the following.
Shape of the area where the fabric is stored i.e. long shaped machine or J-box
compact machine. Type of the nozzle along with its specific positioning i.e. above or
below the bath level. Depending more or less in these criteria for differentiation
following types of Jet Machines can be said to be as developments of the
conventional jet dyeing machine. 1. Overflow Dyeing Machine 2. Soft-flow Dyeing
Machine 3. Airflow Dyeing Machine Advantages of Jet Dyeing Machine: The Jet
Dyeing Machine offers the following striking advantages that make them suitable for
fabrics like polyesters. 1. Low consumption of water 2. Short dyeing time 3. Can be
easily operated at high temperatures and pressure 4. Comparatively low liquor
ratios, typically ranges between 1:4 and 1:20 5. Fabrics are handled carefully and
gently Soft Flow Dyeing Machine: In the soft flow dyeing machine water is used for
keeping the fabric in circulation. The conceptional difference of this equipment from
a conventional jets that operates with a hydraulic system is that the fabric rope is
kept circulating during the whole processing cycle (right from loading to unloading).
There is no stopping of liquor or fabric circulation for usual drain and fill steps. The
principle working behind the technique is very unique. There is a system for fresh
water to enter the vessel via a heat exchanger to a special interchange zone. At the
same time the contaminated liquor is allowed channel out through a drain without
any sort of contact with the fabric or for that matter the new bath in the machine.
Key Features of Soft flow Dyeing Machine:  Significant savings in processing time. 
Savings in water that is around 50%.  Excellent separation of different streams
results in optimum heat recovery and a distinct possibility of further use or a
dedicated treatment.
43. 43 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Principle
of Soft Flow Dyeing Machine: Textile material can be dyed using batch, continuous or
semi continuous process. Batch processes are the most common method used to dye
textile materials. There are three general types of batch dyeing machines: 1. In which
fabric is circulated 2. In which dye bath is circulated 3. In which both the bath and
material is circulated. Jet dyeing machine is the best example of a machine that
circulated both the fabric and the dyebath. Jet dyeing is used for knitted fabrics. For
Terry-towels soft flow dyeing is use. In jet dyeing machine the fabric is transported
by a high speed jet of dye liquid. As seen in the figure, this pressure is created by
venturi. A powerful pump circulates the dyed bath through a heat exchanger and the
cloth chamber. Cloth guide tube helps in circulation of fabric. Types of Soft Flow
Dyeing Machine: A few of the commercially popular brands along with their
particular technical specifications are discussed here. The categories are not
exhaustive as such. Multi Nozzle Soft Flow Dyeing Machine: Technical Features: 1.
Very low Liquor ratio - around 1:1 (Wet Fabric) 2. Can reach high temp. up to 140°C
3. Easily dye 30 to 450 g/mt.sq. of fabrics (woven & knitted fabrics) 4. Number of
very soft-flow nozzles 5. No pilling effect 6. Wide capacity
44. 44 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Multi
Nozzle Soft flow Dyeing Machine High Temperature High Pressure Soft Flow Dyeing
Machine: Technical Features: 1. Compact body made of stainless steel. 2. High
efficiency heat exchanger for quick heating/cooling. 3. Compact body made of
stainless steel. 4. Heating rate - around 4°C/Min upto 900°C - around 3°C/Min upto
135°C At steam pressure of 6 Bar. 5. Cooling Rate- around 4°C/ Min At water
pressure of 4 Bar and 15°C. 6. Maximum working temp is 135°C. 7. Maximum
working pressure of 3.2 Bar. 8. Control manual as well as automatic. 9. Heavy duty
stainless steel pump. Soft Flow Dyeing Machine 1. The vigorous agitation of fabric
and dye formulation in the cloth increases the dyeing rate and uniformity. It
minimizes creasing as the fabric is not held in any one configuration for very long.
The lower liquor ration allows shorter dye cycles and saves chemicals and energy. 2.
In soft flow dyeing machines the fabric is transported by a stream of dye liquor.
However, the transport is assisted by a driven lifter reel. 3. These machines use a jet
having lower velocity that that used on conventional jet dyeing machines. 4. The soft
flow machines are gentler on the fabric than conventional jet machines.
45. 45 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Winch
dyeing machine A dyeing machine consisting essentially of a dye vessel fitted with a
driven winch ( usually above the liquor level) which rotates and draws a length of
fabric, normally joined end to end, through the liquor. Winch dyeing machine Winch
dyeing machine is a rather old dyeing machine for fabrics in rope form with
stationary liquor and moving material. The machine operates at a maximum
temperature of 95-98°C. The liquor ratio is generally quite high (1:20-1:40). Winch
dyeing machines are a low cost design that is simple to operate and maintain, yet
versatile in application proving invaluable for preparation, washing or after
treatments as well as the dyeing stage itself. In all winch dyeing machines a series of
fabric ropes of equal length are immersed in the dye bath but part of each rope is
taken over two reels or the winch itself. The rope of fabric is circulated through the
dye bath being hauled up and over the winch throughout the course of the dyeing
operation. Dyestuff and auxiliaries may be dosed manually or automatically in
accordance with the recipe method. A winch dyeing machine Description and Dyeing
Method on Winch Dyeing Machine The basic principle of all winch dyeing machines is
to have a number of loops or ropes of the fabric in the dye bath, these ropes are of
equal length , which are mostly immersed in the liquor in the bath. The upper part of
each rope runs over two reels which are mounted over dyebath. At the front of the
machine, above the top of the dye liquor , is a smaller reel, which is called jockey or
fly roller. The fly roller remains free wheeling along with fabric rope. At the back of
winch tank is the winch wheel, which pulls the fabric rope from the dye bath over
the jockey reel for dropping in the dye bath for immersion. From the dropped
location, the fabric rope travels back. To be lifted and fed to winch wheel.
46. 46 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] The
dyeing process on winch dyeing machines is based on higher M:L as compared with
other dyeing machines. The process is conducted with very little tension. The total
dyeing time is lengthier as compared to other machines. Advantages of Winch
Dyeing Machine 1. Construction and operation of winch are very simple. 2. The
winch dyeing machines are suitable for types of wet processing operations from
desizing to softening. 3. The winch dyeing machine is suitable for practically all types
of fabrics, which can withstand creasing in rope form processing. 4. Thr tension
exerted on winch is less than jigger dyeing machine,the material thus dyed is with
fuller hand. 5. The appearance of the dyed goods is clean and smooth on winch
dyeing machines. Limitations of Winch Dyeing Machine 1. Batch dyeing operations
needs trimming, sewing, opening out the rope , loading and unloading for individual
lots separately. 2. Since several lengths of fabric are run over the winch reel into the
liquor and sewn end to end,Continuous length processing is not possible in a single
batch. 3. Fabric is processed in rope form which may lead to crease marks,
particularly in heavy , woven , thin and light synthetics. 4. Most of the machine works
under atmospheric conditions Jet Dyeing Machine This is the most modern machine
used for the dyeing of polyester using disperse dyes. In this machine the cloth is dyed
in rope form which is the main disadvantage of the machine. In this machine, the dye
tank contains disperse dye, dispersing agent, leveling agent and acetic acid. The
solution is filled up in the dye tank and it reaches the heat exchanger where the
solution will be heated which then passed on to the centrifugal pump and then to
the filter chamber. Jet Dyeing Machine The solution will be filtered and reaches the
tubular chamber. Here the material to be dyed will be loaded and the winch is
rotated, so that the material is also rotated. Again the dye liquor
47. 47 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] reaches
the heat exchanger and the operation is repeated for 20 to 30 minutes at 135o C.
Then the dye bath is cooled down, after the material is taken out. Metering wheel is
also fixed on winch by external electronic unit. Its purpose is to record the speed of
the fabric. The thermometer, pressure gauge is also fixed in the side of the machine
to note the temperature and pressure under working. A simple device is also fixed to
note the shade under working. Advantages Jet Dyeing Machine  Dyeing time is short
compared to beam dyeing.  Material to liquor ratio is 1:5 (or) 1:6  Production is
high compared to beam dyeing machine. Disadvantages Jet Dyeing Machine  Cloth
is dyed in rope form  Risk of entanglement  Chance for crease formation. Package
dyeing machines Package dyeing machines are the most widely used now a days for
dyeing of almost all type of yarns ,due to economical ,automatic and accurate dyeing
results. The term package dyeing usually denotes for dyeing of any type yarn wound
on the compressible dye springs/perforated solid dyeing tubes or cones. Yarn dyeing
in package form is done at high temperature and under high pressure ,with the
packages mounted on hollow spindles .These spindles are fixed on the dyeing
carriers ,which is inserted into the dyeing vessel after closing the lid of the
machine ,the dyeing liquor is forced through the packages in two way pattern (inside
to out and outside to in) and goes on circulating throughout the vessel and yarn.
Heat is applied to the dye liquor to achieve the dyeing temperature, time –
temperature and flow reversal are controlled through a programmer. Package
Dyeing Machine A series of technical developments in the recent years has resulted
into package dyeing being developed into a highly sophisticated as well as an
economic process. Latest design Package Dyeing machines are amenable to accurate
control and automation. These features would likely
48. 48 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] to lead to
increases in the application of package dyeing. The term package dyeing usually
denotes for dyeing of yarn that has been wound on perforated cores. This helps in
forcing the dye liquor through the package. With the start of dyeing cycle, the dye
liquor goes on circulating throughout the vessel and tank. This happens till all the dye
is used up or fully exhausted. The dye flows through to the yarn package with the
help of the deliberate perforations in the tube package. Once full exhaustion is
brought about, the carrier of coloured yarn is consequently removed from the vessel.
A large centrifuge removes excess water from the packages. Finally the yarn is dried
using an infra red drying oven. The image shows the process working of a Package
dyeing machine. Working Process of Package Dyeing Machines The material to be
dyed is wound on the dye springs, perforated plastic cheeses or steel cones and
loaded in the carrier spindles ,which are compressed and bolted at the top to make a
uniform and homogeneous dyeing coloumn. The liquor containing dyes chemical and
auxilliaries is forced through with the help of pump, and circulated through the
material from inside –out and is reversed periodically so that each and every part of
the material get the same and uniform treatment. The dyeing cycle is controlled
through a micro computer and different chemicals may be added through the
injector pump or color kitchen at any stage of dyeing. In case of fully flooded
machines ,the liquor expands with the rise in temperature (approximately 5%
volume increases from 30-130 degree centigrade temperature) is taken back in the
expansion tank through a back cooler. This extra water is then again injected to the
dyeing vessel through an injector pump. Expanded volume of the dye liquor is thus
remains in continuous circulation in the system. Any type of addition can be done to
the machine through the injector pump, the quantity and time of injection can be
controlled through the programmer. In case of air pad machines ,the air above the
liquor acts as a cushion ,which is compressed with the increase in liquor volume, the
pressure is controlled by pre set pressure control valve .In air pad machines have an
advantage ,that entire dye liquor participate in dyeing and dye exhaustion is perfect.
In case some addition has to be done in air pad machines , if the machine
temperature is less than 80 degrees ,the liquor is taken back by back transfer valve to
addition tank ,and injected back to machine vessel. If the machine temperature is
above 80 Degree then cooling has to be done to bring down the machine
temperature. Air pad technology is possible in all types of machines such as vertical
kier, horizontal kier and tubular dyeing machines. The material after dyeing is
washed and finished properly in the same machine and taken out hydro extracted or
pressure extracted in the same machine and dried subsequently. Advantages of
Package Dyeing machine Package dyeing methodologies have been subjected to
intensive research and development. As a result package dyeing machine has
evolved into a very sophisticated apparatus. It offers a number of advantages.
49. 49 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Package
Dyeing Machine  Considerable reduction in yarn handling.  Compatible to
automatic control, in the process leading to reproducible dyeing‟s.  Open to large
batches.  High temperature dyeing a possibility.  Low liquor ratios, giving savings in
water, effluent and energy.  Uniform and High rates of liquor circulation, that leads
to level application of dyes. Machinery totally enclosed resulting in good working
conditions at the dye-house. Types of Package Dyeing Machines Different type of
Package Dyeing Machines are 1.Vertical Kier Dyeing Machines 2.Horizontal Kier
Dyeing Machines 3.Tubular Dyeing Machines Vertical Kier Dyeing Machines These
machines have a vertical cylindrical dyeing kier, in which material loaded into carriers
with vertical perforated spindles, is dyed .The machine could be fully flooded or air
pad type .These are high pressure machines and suitable up to 1350C temperature
dyeing. Horizontal HTHP Dyeing Machines These machines are similar to vertical type
machines in which the cylindrical dyeing kier is in horizontal position. The dyeing
carriers with vertical spindles are used in these machines, which are inserted into the
machine via trolleys. These machines are erected at the ground level and hence do
not needs an overhead hoist as well as platform, thus making the dye house design
and layout is simple. Tubular HTHP Dyeing Machines These machines may be of
vertical or horizontal type, and have one or many tubes acting as small dyeing
vessels, each with a single individual spindle. The spindle is taken out of the tube,
loaded and then inserted back into it. These machines can be operated either fully
loaded tubes or to partial loads by using dummies. Since all individual tubes in a
machine are connected and serviced by a main pump, therefore it is also possible to
operate as many tubes as required and disconnecting others. These machines can be
erected at ground level and hence do not need a platform or hoist. These machines
are most flexible as for as the capacity variation is concerned ,without altering the
material to liquor ratio.
50. 50 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Hydro
Extractor: Hydro-Extractors are also called Centrifuges. Centrifuges are used for
water extraction (dewatering, pre-drying) of textile materials. Values of approx. 15%
for residual moisture content can be achieved depending on the type of textile fiber.
Centrifuges with perforated drums or baskets (Ø up to approx. 2000 mm) which
oscillate vertically in ball-and-socket joints suspended on three points are produced
in various designs as pendulating, suspension, cage and vertical centrifuges, also with
so called gliding support bearings as gliding support centrifuges or in horizontal resp.
vertical arrangements as open-width, horizontal and warp-beam centrifuges, etc.
Most centrifuges have electric drives for speeds of approx. 750–1200 rpm and are
generally provided with automatic control over various ranges. For safety reasons, an
interlocking lid is essential on a centrifuge so that the motor cannot be started until
the lid is locked, nor the lid raised until the basket is stationary again after the
machine has been stopped. Hydro Extractor When used for dewatering loose stock,
the cake of loose fibers is transferred from the dyeing machine to the centrifuge and
hydro-extracted before it is run into the fiber opener as a preliminary stage of drying
in a perforated drum drier. If an immersion centrifuge is used, impregnation of the
loose fibers with a spinning lubricant is also possible. In this case, the material is
loaded into the centrifuge, liquor is then pumped in (until it covers the material), and
the goods are finally hydro-extracted. The advantage of such a procedure lies in the
fact that a separate treatment of the textile material in an impregnation vat and the
reloading of wet goods into the centrifuge are eliminated . Impregnation of textile
material in the impregnation basket of a centrifuge is generally quicker and more
effective for all processes than in a vat. The centrifugal force which drives the liquor
through the goods during centrifuging accelerates penetration. It is possible to carry
out several processes one after the other in an immersion centrifuge. In this case,
however, separate drain channels and liquor tanks must be provided. The basket of
an immersion centrifuge has an outer casing without perforations which surrounds
the cylindrical basket of a normal centrifuge (extended conically at the top). By this
means, it is possible to fill it with liquor to the level of the upper rim. Only when the
basket is set in motion
51. 51 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] does the
liquor, which is driven outwards by centrifugal force, rise up the basket casing and
run over the upper rim. Loose fiber material (loose stock) can also be centrifuged
continuously. For the dewatering of yarn packages, other possible options besides
the asymmetrical dewatering of columns of yarn packages in suitably shaped
compartments of the centrifuge include symmetrical dewatering by the rotation of
individual packages or columns of yarn packages which involves less risk of package
deformation. Technical Data: 1. Working width 1300mm 2. Machine speed
5~30M/min 3. Machine for the hydro extractor, softener, air ballooning type of
cotton knitted tubular fabrics without tension, with fabrics entwisting, air balloon,
control of the squeezing pressure and control of the final width of the fabric. 4.
Automatic control of the feeding without tension, no edge mark, final folding
without stretching. Versions with simple or double squeezing and imbuing with
softeners. Advantages of Hydro Extractor:  No deformation of the packages. 
Excellent rewinding properties. Rewinding can even be eliminated in a lot of cases. 
Low residual moisture.  Even humidity distribution through the package.  Low
energy consumption.  Dyeing tubes last longer.  Processes many different size
packages.  Operator of centrifuge can also load dryer.  Maintenance-free brakes. 
Closed system for effluent.  Low compressed air consumption.  Significant energy
savings. HTHP Beaker Dyeing Machine HTHP Beaker Dyeing Machine is ideally
suitable for sample dyeing of fabric and yarn at high temperature and pressure. This
machine is a versatile, compact and maintenance free apparatus suitable for both
Polyester and cotton sample dyeing. In fact it is suitable for dyeing of any fiber in
form. The apparatus is of immense use for dyeing and processing units
research/testing labs, textile engineering institutes and dyes manufacturers.
52. 52 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] Beaker
Dyeing Machine Features of HTHP Beaker Dyeing Machine: 1. The machine
comprises of tank, beaker and gear box 2. The beakers are capable of withstanding
pressure upto 6.0 Kg/cm square. 3. The machine is complete in stainless steel 4.
Ensures a sound free and smooth working. 5. Microprocessor based programmer is
provided which ensures temperature control. 6. Promises long life and leak proof
service even after many years of use. Specifications of HTHP Beaker Dyeing Machine:
 Standard Model : 12x250 ml., 12x100 ml., 6x500 ml., 12x500 ml.  Electric Supply :
Single phase 220 Volts, AC Supply  Heater Supply : 3000 watt Single Phase  Overall
dimensions of the Unit : 700 ±05mm (L) x 470±05mm (H) x 370±05mm (W)  Capacity
of Beaker: 250 ml Beaker X 12 Pcs.  Carriage Rotation: At 22 rpm. (±2 rpm) 
Maximum operating Temperature: 135°C.  No. of Heater : 3 x 1500 W  Maximum
rate of heating: 1.50C  Maximum rate of cooling 1.50C ( Water temperature max
250C )  Net Weight of the Unit: 35 Kg.  Net Weight of the Beaker (250ml): 10.980
Kg.  Motor : Reversible Synchronous Geared Motor  Medium used for Heating :
Glycerine  Beakers : 12x250 ml., SS-316 grade Working Principle of HTHP Beaker
Dyeing Machine: 1. First of prepare for dyeing piece by taking the sample fabric as
per leakier ratio as suggested by your quality consultant. 2. Sample moves up &
down with auto forward and reverse direction through process controller. 3. The
machine must be cleaned at the regular intervals by changing water inside the
chamber.
53. 53 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] 4. All
bearings should be lubricated every three months. 5. Single phase motor contacts
and Power contacts should be inspected every three months Skein Dyeing Machine
This is the most suitable machine for dyeing delicate yarns (Silk, Bemberg, etc.) since
it prevents the material being too tightly packed; in fact other skein dyeing systems
frequently produce an excessive packing of the dyed material. The machine is
equipped with horizontal arms perforated in the upper part; skeins are stacked and
suspended on this rack. The liquor, forced through the arm holes, penetrates the
skeins and is then collected in an underlying vat. Standard machines are equipped
with a rod which moves the skeins at preset times, changing the bearing point to
obtain a more uniform dyeing. During the skein motion, the flow of the liquor is
stopped to avoid the formation of tangles in the yarn; since yarns are not fixed to
rigid supports, they can thoroughly shrink. This machine does not run under
pressure. It is possible to dye at steady temperatures since the liquor is contained in
a separate tank. Skein Dyeing Machine Modular skein dyeing machine with pullout
arms. Pullout arms also allow the loading and unloading of skeins far from the dyeing
machine, without manually intervening in the
intermediate dyeing, squeezing and drying operations. It can be used for silk, cotton,
viscose and Cashmere yarns. The operating costs of this machine are generally very
high because it require a very high liquor ratio (1:15. 1:25. 1:30). Standby times for
loading and unloading operations are also very high and the arms must be often
cleaned. This machine can be used also for scouring and finishing processes. Some
machine manufacturers have designed machines with slant covers to avoid
unwanted liquor dripping on the skeins; the skein rotation is determined by the
perforated arms, and not by the rotation of the skein-lifting device when the arm is
stopped; it is therefore possible to eliminate the sliding contact with the skeins and
preserve them perfectly. There are also package dyeing machines with triangle-
shape arms, arranged radially on a variable-speed rotor. When the dyeing process
has terminated, the material can be centrifuged and dried, by forcing a hot air flow
into the arms and through the skeins. Equipment used in wet processing lab: Wet
Processing Lab: Wet processing lab plays a vital role in the quality control of wet
processing department. In every wet processing lab mainly three types of tests are
performed. 1. Tests for determination of the acceptability of chemicals for their
intended purposes. 2. Tests for determination of several physical properties of the
material. 3. Tests for determination of the quality of he finished materials. 4. Tests
for determination of the quantity of dyes & chemicals required for a particular order.
When a new order is found; then the formulation of quantity of dyes & chemicals are
prepared in the wet processing lab. According to the recipe at first lab dyeing is
done. If the obtained shed is ok then sample dyeing is done in the floor. During
sample dyeing different options are prepared by slightly altering the quantity of dyes
& chemicals. The sample is sent to the buyer for approval. Buyer approves any one of
the multiple options. Finally the recipe of the approved sample is taken for bulk
production. After production the bulk is tested in the wet processing lab in order to
ascertain wheatear the finished products are confirming the requisite quality or not.
The instruments used in the dyeing lab are enlisted bellow with their purposes: 1.
Oven: Used for drying samples. It dries any sample by using micro wave. 2.
Thermostatic Water Bath: Used for extraction test. The samples are kept in Weing
Bottle & are heated at required temperature by this instrument. 3. Tear strength
tester: Used for testing the tear strength of sample (towel). Two samples from warp
& two samples from weft are tested & the average tensile strength of sample in warp
& weft direction is
55. 55 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] reported
separately. 4. Crock Meter: Used for testing the rubbing fastness of sample. The
sample is clipped in the sample stand & a staining fabric is clipped in the nose. Then
the nose is rubbed against the sample for 10 times. At first rubbing is done in wet
condition, then again rubbing is done in dry condition with another piece of staining
fabric. Then the staining fabrics are assessed with standards & a grade is assigned to
the sample. 5. PH Meter: Used for testing the PH of any solution. The PH meter is
calibrated at first by using standard solution. Then the sensor is dripped in to the
solution that’s PH should be tested & the reading of PH is shown on the display. 6.
Hot Air oven: Used for drying sample by using hot air. 7. Absorbency Tester: Used for
testing the water absorbency of towel. 8. Color Fastness Tester: This instrument is
used for three distinct tests. These are: a. Color Fastness to Wash. b. Color Fastness
to Perspiration. c. Phenolic Yellowing Test. This test is done in order to find out the
presence of hazardous component in the poly bag. 9. Oscillating Dyeing M/C Used
for lab dyeing in exhaust process. 10. Geyser: Used for heating water at desired
temperature that is used for various tests. It is provided with separate pipes for feed
& delivery of water. As it is mounted at a higher level so hot water can easily be
supplied due to gravity force. 11. Horizontal Padding Mangle: It is a lab dyeing m/c of
cold pad type. In this m/c the padding rollers remain horizontally; therefore it is
called Horizontal Padding Mangle. This m/c is used for sample dyeing. For dyeing any
sample at first the mangle is washed with water. Then dye liquor is taken to the bath.
Then towel sample passes through the liquor & then through the squeezing rollers.
Then the sample is kept covered with polybag for 12 hrs. Then the liquor is drained
out & the m/c is washed again with water. 12. Launder-O-Meter: Used for assessing
color fastness to non chlorine bleach. 13. AATCC Washer: Used for washing any
sample. 14. AATCC Dryer: Used for drying samples. It dries the given sample in
tumbling process in association with hot
56. 56 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] air. 15.
Tensile Strength Tester: It is used for testing the tensile strength of sample. The Grab
Test Principle is used in this m/c. The m/c is provided with two jaws; one fixed
(bottom jaw) & another movable (top jaw). The sample is clumped between two
jaws & then the m/c is started. As the distance between two jaws increases;
eventually the sample breaks. Tensile strength of the sample is shown on the digital
display in kg unit. Two samples from warp & two samples from weft are tested & the
average tensile strength of sample in warp & weft direction is reported separately.
16. Hardness Test Kit: It is used for testing the degree of hardness in water. 17. Fume
Hood: This m/c has just taken in to the wet processing lab & yet it has not been
erected. It is used for testing different properties of dyes & chemicals. 17. Light Box
Area: It is used for finding out deviation of shed between the batch & reference.
Here a dyed sample is checked in the specific light recommended by buyer. The dyed
sample is placed on the observation board that inclines at 45o angle. Then it is
compared either with reference fabric or with reference pantone no. in the
recommended light source visually. The following light sources are usually
recommended by the buyers:  D-65  TL-84  UL-35  UL-30  CWF Except the
enlisted instruments, many other simple instruments that are used in chemistry lab;
are also used in wet processing lab. Those are enlisted bellow: 1. Beaker 2. Burette 3.
Pipette 4. Glass Rod 5. Test Tube 6. Digital Balance etc 7. Decicator 8. Wine Bottle
etc. KNOWLEDGE IS POWER SAYED
DISPERSE/REACTIVE DYEING SYSTEM: Disperse/vat dyeing system: Typical dyeing
recipe  Disperse dye-X%  Vat dye-Y%  Dispersing agent-.5-1%  wetting agent-.5-
1%  pH 4-5 with acetic acid (30%) Procedure- Prepare the bath with dispersing
agent, wetting agent and acetic acid + treatment for 10-15min at 50-60°c then +
disperse and vat + dye for 10-15min + raise temp up to 130°c in 60-90 min. After PET
part dyeing cool to 80c for proper levelling then add NaOH & Na2S2O 4 + dyeing
15min + cooling to 60°c + dyeing for 30 min. for better exhaustion Rinse with cold
water + oxidation with H2O2 for 15min at 50°c + Rinsing with cold water + Soap at
95° C for 25 min using 2 g/l Lissapol D + Hot and cold rinse and then final wash off.
Only vat dyes which are stable up to 130°c can be used for this process. One bath
two step dyeing method- All vat dyes may be used for the one –bath high
temperature process provided that the dyes are finely divided enough. The IK vat
dyes are not preferred because the dye liquor requires to be cooled to about 300c in
order to obtain full colour yield. Therefore when IK dyes are to be used it is
preferable to dye by the two-bath process. Typical dyeing recipe-  Disperse dye-X% 
Vat dye-Y%
58. 58 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] 
Dispersing agent-0.5-1%  Wetting agent-0.5-1%  Ph-4-5(attained with 1-2 ml/l of
30% acetic acid) Oxidation and soaping: Oxidation and soaping can be be achieved
simultaneously using the following recipe:  Hydrogen peroxide(35%) 1-2 ml 
Anionic detergent -.5-1g/l  Ph-9-10 First treat the material for 10-15 min. at 500c
with hydrogen peroxide. Then the anionic detergent and raise the temperature to
950c. Soap for 10-15 min.  Method is used when selected vat dyes severely. It stain
PET component during high temp dyeing.  Vat dye is added at 80°c after PET part
dyeing rather than adding at the start with disperse dye.  Except it the whole
process is same as the dyeing in one bath one step. DISPERSE/REACTIVE SYSTEM
Same as one step dyeing except the addition of reactive dye at 80°c. This process is
used for the reactive dyes which are not stable up to 130°c, due to which they can
not be used in one step process Thermosol Dyeing method:  Continuous dyeing. 
Pad batch process. Advantages of Thermosol dyeing-  Continuous process so it gives
higher production.  Dye utilization is excellent.  Dye can be used afterward.  No
carrier is required.  Fabric is processed in open width form so natural feel of fabric
do not get disturbed.  No crease formation.  Lower energy is required than batch. 
No extra heat setting is required
Disperse/vat dye system- PDPS method (Continious method) ONE BATH ONE STEP
THERMOSOL DYEING WITH DISPERSE AND REACTIVE DYES:
CHEMICAL RECIPE & PROCEDURE: Chemical recipe-  Disperse dye-x g/l  Reactive
dye-y g/l  Sodium bicarbonate or soda ash-5-20g/l  Urea-100-200g/l  Migration
inhibitor-10-20 g/l  Wetting agent- 1-2g/l PROCESS-pad-dry-thermosol-cool-wash: 1.
PADDING  Padding Temp-20-300 c  Liquor pick up-60-80% 2. DRYING  First partial
drying in infrared pre dryer and then fully drying.  Partial drying is done to avoid
migration of dyes.  Drying is done at 120°c. 3. THERMOFIXATION  It is done at 180-
220°c, 30-45sec  It is the fixation step. 4. PADDING  Padding bath contain NaOH +
Na2S2O4 5. STEAMING  During this vat dye penetrated inside the cotton part. Then
oxidation, soaping and finally washing. One bath one step dyeing
process-Disperse/Reactive dyes:  Padding in the second step is done using NaCl +
NaOH  H- Brand reactive dye is used.  Fixation is done during steaming with
saturated steam (102°c) for 30-60 sec.  Then washing, soaping and again washing.
Recipe-  Disperse dye-x g/l  Reactive dye-yg/l  Sodium bicarbonate or soda ash-5-
20g/l  Urea-100-200g/l  Migration inhibitor-10-20 g/l  Wetting agent- 1-2g/l.
61. 61 Engr. Abu Sayed, M.Sc in Textile Engineer, Email id- [email protected] NEW
APPROACHES OF DYEING OF P/C BLEND FABRIC-  Dyeing with Reactive Disperse
Dyes in Supercritical carbon oxide.  Dyeing of 80/20 PET/COTTON blend by using
azeotropic solvent.  Polyester/cotton blend fabric with sulphatoethyl sulphone
disperse /reactive dye treatment.  One-bath dyeing PET/COTTON blend with
azohydroxypyridone disperse dye containing a fuluorosulfonyl. Dyeing with Reactive
Disperse Dyes in Supercritical carbon oxide: What is supercritical CO2?  It is a
naturally occurring that is chemically inert, physiologically compatible, and relatively
inexpensive.  It is nonflammable, it is supplied either from combustion process or
volcanic process without the need of producing new gas & it is recycled in a closed
system.  No disposal problem.  Easy to handle.
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Singeing of Fabric: Objectives, Flowchart, Methods and Machines

Singeing is a part of the pretreatment processes carried out in textile

1. Burning of projecting fibers from yarn/fabric surface.

Flow Chart of Singeing Process:

Different Methods of Singeing:

There are various methods of singeing:

1. Hot plate singeing

Different singing positions may be used for different fabrics in order

Main singeing positions are: singeing

 onto free guided rollers;

The main parameters of gas flame singeing includes

You may also like: Different Types of Singeing Problems,

The commonly used methods to assess the singeing efficiency include

Different Types of Singeing Machine:

1. Hot plate singeing machine:

 Hot plate singeing machine is suitable for back filling finishing

2. Roller singeing machine:

 Roller singeing machine is suitable for back filling finishing

3. Gas singeing machine:

 Both sides of the cloth are singed simultaneously.

 The major disadvantage of gas-singeing is obviously that there is a

Temperature of fabric in singeing chamber: 80°C -90°C

Service and Maintenance of Singeing Machine:

1. Ensure the feed fabric before brushing is always bone dry.

There are various methods of singeing:

1. Plate singeing machine

Singeing Problems Possible Causes Solutions

1. Too low flame intensity.

1. Singeing and Desizing Process in Textile Industry

Objectives of Singeing and Desizing:

Fabric singeing process Fig: Desizing

Singeing and Desizing Operation:

 Press the squeezing button to ready for operation the sqeezers.

You may also like:

Study on Different Chemical Finished Treatment on

Typically, chemical finishing takes place after coloration (dyeing or

Chemical finishes can be durable, i.e. undergo repeated launderings

The actual method of finish application depends on the particular

Chemical Finishing involves applying chemicals to the fabric that may

1.2 Objectives of the Thesis

 To know the effects of different chemical finished treatment on

1.3 Work Outline

Collection of Dyeing fabric

Normal Wash (Wash by detergent)

Preparation for fastness properties

Color fastness Test (Wash, Perspiration, Rubbing)

2.1 Literature Review

Following materials are used for this research:

 Fabric Types: Knit Single jersey (Dyed fabric)

Auxiliaries Name Supplier Name Country

Hydrophilic Softner Austex Germany

White Softner Austex Germany

Silicon Softner Austex Germany

Fixign Agent Austex Germany

Color Sofrner Austex Germany

Solusoft R MW liq Austex Germany

Solusoft R ECO liq Austex Germany

Solusoft NUP liq Huntsman Germany

Sandofix EC-(Fixing agent) Huntsman Germany

3.4 Hydrophilic Softener Recipe