The Contractor Option ~

In-ground sprinkler systems require extensive excavation

and plumbing. Installing one is a project that should be
attempted only by experienced do-it-youselfers. If you
aren't completely sure that your abilities, knowledge, and
experience properly equip you for tackling this particular
project, hire a contractor instead. Use only a licensed
contractor who can provide you with proof of insurance.
You don't want to find out the limits of your homeowner
coverage if and when a worker is injured digging a trench
for a sprinkler line. You should also check references to
see if the contractor has successfully completed a project
on par with yours, including the same or greater number
of zones, and a similar controller installation. Make sure
the contractor will warranty the equipment, whether
he is selling it to you as part of the project, or you are
getting it from a third party vendor. Ultimately, you want
to be secure in the knowledge that if something goes
wrong with any part of the system, quick help will be only
a phone call away. As always, get everything in writing,
including start and finish dates and warranty specifications
(if the contractor is not supplying the materials, you'll want
him to conform to all the manufacturer's requirements for
maintaining the warranty).

Parts of an inground sprinkler system

c include: Controller (A), sprinkler heads (8),
PVC pipe (C), copper pipe (D), backflow
preventerlVacuum assembly (E), control
valve (F), control valve box (G), tees (H),
I funny pipe (I), low-voltage wire (J)'
polyethylene pipe (K).

iVlain tain ing Your Lawn • 149

 I How to Install an In-Ground Sprinkler System
2

Measure the flow rate of your water supply by setting a Measure the water pressure of your water supply system.
gallon bucket under an outdoor spigot. Open the faucet all the Make sure all faucets in the house are off, and then attach a
way and time how long it takes to fill the bucket. Calculate the pressure valve to an exterior sillcock. Open the valve all the
system gallons per minute (GPM) by dividing 60 by the fill time. way and record the reading.
The GPM figure is needed to choose properly sized feeder pipe.

The fundamentals of an in-ground

sprinkler system are shown here. The
water-supply line draws water from the
house's cold water supply, routing it to
zone valves contained in an underground
box. The water is then piped out to the
sprinkler heads for each zone.

150 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

 House

Valve manifold

D o
Sprinkler line Sprinkler line
(PVC pipe) ... (PE pipe)

D ~ (]

Sprinkler beads Circuit 1

(]

Plan your system. Take measurements and sketch a rough splice a tee fitting into the cold water supply line in the
layout of the lawn and yard with exact dimensions. Send this run just after the meter, inside or under the house. You may
information, along with the pressure and GPM figures, to the use copper or plastic supply pipe. If you choose plastic,
manufacturer or third-party sprinkler plan creation company. you'll need to use a tee with compression-fittings and a
Collect all the pieces for your system and check them against copper-to-PVC adapter. You'll also need to connect a full-flow
the plan. Check that you have the right number of each type of ball valve and vacuum breaker/back flow preventer. Some
sprinkler head, and a sufficient amount of pipe and tubing. municipalities require this be done by a licensed contractor or
plumber. Local codes may also require the vacuum assembly
be connected inside. Drill a hole through the rim joist or
foundation wall and run the supply pipe and controller wire
out through the hole.

(continued)

Mai.ntaining Yuur Lawn • 151

 Remove sod over the trenches and dig the trenches for Run the supply line and wire to the first control valve
sprinkler lines 8" to 10" deep. Do the same for the holes for the location. Line the bottom of the control-valve hole with gravel,
zone valves. Keep the sod on plastic next to the trenches, and and splice the valve body connections into the supply line.
regularly moisten it as you work.

construct the zone-valve assembles and connect them Connect the control wires to the zone valves. Run supply
to the supply-line. Install an in-line drain fitting, if required by lines to other zone valve locations, and finish them in the same
code or as part of the system design, opposite the supply side way. Install the control-valve boxes and backfill around them.
of each valve. Make sure that the valves can be easily accessed through the
box cover.

152 • THE COM PLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

Run the main feed lines and branch lines from the control Create a hole for pipe to run under sidewalks by gluing a
valves. Install drain valves at the lowest point in each feed line hose adapter to one end of a length of PVC pipe and a special
(or as required by local code), threaded into the valve with tunneling nozzle (available at large home centers) to the other
Teflon tape. end. Spray from each side to create the pipe access hole.

cut polyethylene pipe with scissor cutters (use PVC pipe Install the sprinkler heads. In most cases, use a basic 90°
cutter on PVC pipe). Add tees for branch lines. fitting, although you may need to use a drain fitting at low
points. Connect the head using funny pipe.

(continued)

Mai.ntaining Yuur Lawn • 153

 If you've used a drain fitting, put gravel below it and over it Alternative: When a sprinkler head is located directly over the
when backfilling. Backfill the sprinkler head hole, being careful supply pipe, use a tee connection with a threaded riser (you'll
to keep the head level with the top surface. Tamp down the find them in a range of lengths).
soil, leaving room for sod.

14 Rent a Pipe Puller ~

If your yard is large and will require several long
trenches for main and branch sprinkler lines, it may
make sense for you to rent a pipe puller (sometimes
called a vibratory plow). This machine uses a
powerful blade on an arm that essentially burrows
down to create a tunnel in which it runs the sprinkler
pipe 12" to 16" below the surface of the soil. The
machine is heavy to operate and fairly expensive to
rent, but on a large project it will save many hours
of time and hard labor. You'll still need to dig up the
trench at junction points, such as wherever a head
must be installed or for the zone control valves.

Backfill all trenches and replace all the sod you

removed . Finally, wire in the control panel according to the
manufacturer's wiring diagram and setup and test the system.

154 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

I Adjusting In-ground Sprinklers
Modern in-ground sprinkler heads are extremely Rotary heads that spray a concentrated stream
adjustable, something many homeowners don't realize can be adjusted by twisting the collar on the body
because their contractors didn't tell them. You can adjust of the sprinkler. This allows you to direct the water
your sprinkler heads to account for variations in weather, exactly where you want it to go.
wind, and anomalies in the lawn itself. However, in most Spray heads can be adjusted to any of a number
cases, you'll only need to adjust the head right after the of spray patterns and angles using a special tool
system is installed. Conditions affecting the need for available from the manufacturer of the head.
water will usually be accounted for in your controller.

The In-Ground System Alternative ~

If you love the idea of an in-ground
sprinkler system but can't quite manage
the budget to install one, consider
installing "hybrid" sprinkler heads instead.
These are installed in the ground and
look much like standard in-ground heads.
The big difference is that these heads
are connected to male and female hose
adapters that allow you connect a garden
hose to the head and, if you want, to
connect another hose on the outflow side,
to link several of the heads in series.

iVlaintaining Your Lawn • 155

 I Winterizing the Lawn
P reparing the lawn to survive the winter months
is almost as important as keeping it going
strong during the growing season. Warm-season
lawns in temperate parts of country continue to
grow over the winter. Note: Warm-season grasses
should not receive "winterizer" or any other kind
of fertilizer in the fall unless a cool-season grass
is overseeded.
The first step in winterizing a cool-season lawn
is to apply a specially formulated fertilizer called
winterizer. This is a formula high in potassium,
which helps strengthen the cells of the grass plants
and toughens them up for the winter to come.
The potassium affects both top growth and roots,
increasing the plant's ability to endure cold and
helping it take up other essential nutrients prior to
going dormant.
The last time you mow the grass at the end of
the growing season, set the mower lower so that
you cut to a grass height of around 2" or less. This
will limit damage to the grass and prevent it from
becoming a haven for rodents during the colder
months. Water the lawn well one last time before
the first freeze.
It's also very important that the lawn not be
covered with leaves or other yard debris over the
winter months. Any covering can damage the lawn,
adding to the stress of colder temperatures. Remove
leaves and give the lawn a brisk raking to clear all
debris from between the grass plants. Once you're
finished with that, make sure all your lawn-care
equipment and tools are cleaned, serviced, and stored.
Then head inside and keep yourself warm until spring,
when your lawn will need you again.

Sprinkler System
Hibernation ~
If you live in an area where the ground freezes, you'll
need to prepare your in-ground sprinkler system
for winter. Turn the supply line off using the va lve at
the T between the cold water supply and sprinkler
system supply. Then use the system's drain valve to Removing the layer of fall leaves sitting on your lawn
completely drain the lines. ensures that the grass plants don't develop disease over the
winter months.

156 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

I using a Leaf Blower/Vacuum

A leaf blower can make quick work out of clearing the lawn using a blowerlvac to pick up leaves is a quick way to
of leaves, especially if your town has curbside pickup. The gather them for your own compost pile.
blowing action also clears organic debris down to the soil
(inset). helping ready the lawn for winter.

I Disposing of Fall Leaves

If your municipality collects leaves at curbside, rake Some sanitation departments require that leaves be put in
them onto a large tarp, such as a plastic painter's tarp, and biodegradable bags for pickup. But even if they don't, it's the
drag them to the curb for pickup. ecologically responsible thing to do.

iVlaintaining Your Lawn • 157

- -.
I
.Ii
 I

Solving Lawn
Problems
Y our first line of defense against any invaders or
flaws in the lawn is simple plant h ealth. If you take
care of the lawn with the right nutrition, the proper
amount of hydration, and fastidious maintenance,
you'll be giving it the best chance flourish.
Unfortunately, there is always the possibility that
something is going to cause damage or try to overtake
the real estate. In creating the perfect circumstances
for a lawn to thrive, you're creating a very inviting
habitat for all kinds of plants and insects (even the

IIIII11 II fill , I undesirable ones).

Not to worry. There are solutions for every malady
a lawn may suffer. Of course, you need to know what
to look for. That's why this chapter includes photo
guides of the lawn's most common foes, along with
appropriate treatments you need to beat them and
keep your grass in the peak of health .

In this chapter:
• Fighting Weeds • Installing a
• Defeating Harmful French Drain
Insects & Pests • Creating a
• Dealing With Drainage Swale
Lawn Diseases • Adding a
• Improving Mowing Strip
Site Conditions • Artificial Lawns

• 161
 I Fighting Weeds
W e tend to think of weeds as the sworn enemies
of the lawn, but in fact they are just different
plants looking for a place of their own. Of course, that
doesn't much matter, when they show up as blights on
what is otherwise a pristine, uniform, deep green lawn.
That's when the gauntlet is thrown down, the
gloves come off, and the weapons come out. But really,
before you start fighting a weed or weeds, you need to
understand what you're dealing with. If you're going
to beat it, you need to know how and when it grows.
That starts with the knowledge that not all weeds are
created equal. Bluegrass
There are many ways to classify weeds. Like
turfgrasses, there are warm-season and cool-season
weeds. A warm-season weed flourishes in the heat
• Annuals. Like annual flowers, annual weeds
of summer, while cool-season species actively grow
live their entire life in one growing season. The
in spring and fall. Either kind may be found in either
classification is a little deceptive, however,
season of lawn.
because if an annual weed matures and produces
Another useful grouping in terms of heading off
seeds, new annual weeds will arrive next year.
weeds before they grow is into annuals, biennials,
This means you can break the cycle by simply
and perennials.
disrupting the creation, dissemination, or
germination of those seeds. Common annuals
include prostrate knotweed and annual bluegrass.
• Biennials. Biennials have a two-year lifecycle.
They spend the first year using all their energy to
grow, setting down strong roots and establishing
themselves in the soil. The second year is focused
on flowering and setting seed. These are tough
plants to eradicate, because if you don't kill or
remove the first-year root, they will come back
with flowers and seeds in year two. Mallow is
a common biennial and a familiar interloper in
many lawns.

Crabgrass is a common lawn invader and one that is quick to

spread in just about any area your turfgrass finds inhospitable.
Once it has a foothold, it wi ll gradually invade healthier parts
of your lawn, too. Crabgrass is a warm-season annual. Apply
a pre-emergent before hot weather and mow lawn high
to smother. Mallow

162 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

 Regardless of how you classify them, all weeds
are opportunistic plants that look to take advantage
of conditions turfgrass finds challenging. Some
weeds will infiltrate a wet area at the first sign of
boggy conditions. Others can thrive in hot, waterless
conditions that leave most turfgrasses withered,
brown, and sparse.
The problem is, even after those conditions
have been remedied, the weed will staunchly hold
onto the ground it has gained. That's one of the
many reasons why it's so important to not let adverse
Creeping Charlie conditions linger in the lawn. If weeds have made it
in, you'll have to decide between turning to chemical
remedies, or using more labor-intensive, but less toxic,
• Perennials. Perennial weeds live for multiple natural cures. Whichever remedy you choose, keep
years. They will continue through a cycle of in mind that a completely weed-free lawn is a very
dormancy and active growth, and may even fool hard objective to achieve and, many would argue, not
you into thinking you've eradicated them. Some completely desirable. Some weeds bring beneficial
perennials spread through rhizomes and stolons, diversity to the lawn and can even help maintain soil
making them even more difficult to permanently and lawn health.
remove from the lawn. The secret is to kill the
whole plant, preferably before they flower and set
seed. Dandelion and Creeping Charlie are two
common perennials.

In addition to their growth periods, weeds are

classified based on appearance: Broadleaf weeds have
relatively wide leaves with branching veins. Many have
conspicuous flowers. Narrow-leafed weeds have grass-
like leaves with parallel veins. Dandelion and oxalis are
two common broadleaf weeds, while Bermuda grass
(in cool-season lawns) and crabgrass are examples
of narrow-leaf weeds. The distinction is important
because they respond to different herbicides. Dandelion

Compact-Soil Weeds ~

Weeds will take advantage of poor soil conditions. They

are tough plants that can flourish in soil that would
stymie most turfgrasses. That's why basic lawn hygiene
and soil maintenance are so important. One poor soil
condition that creates a prime breeding ground for weeds
is compaction. Weeds such as crabgrass, plantain, and
chickweed have no problem thriving in compacted soil
and will move right in to push more desirable grasses
aside. The best remedy for compacted soil is timely
situational aeration (see page 54). It is also wise to
eliminate controllable sources of the compaction, such as
ca r 0 r foot traffi c.

Solvi.ng Lawn Problems • 163

 I Identifying Common Weeds
When it comes to weeds, it's wise to know the enemy-
which means recognizing them on sight. The one big
advantage any homeowner has over these lawn invaders
is that most weeds stick out. The following listings
are divided into the sneakier narrow-leaf species that
often blend right in with the lawn while they spread
throughout the turf, and the brazen broad-leaf types Annual bluegrass
that announce themselves with distinctive appearances.
Once you determine the specific weed you're dealing
with, follow-up with the appropriate treatment. up in boggy conditions or where water puddles on
top of poorly draining soil. It can't take heat, and

I Narrow-Leaf Weeds will often yellow, wither, and die in the height of
summer drought-but not before spreading seed that
germinates through fall.
CRABGRASS Treatment: Mow higher than normal if you know
Perhaps the best-known and most ubiquitous lawn annual bluegrass will be a problem, and alleviate
weed, crabgrass, is sometimes also called Devil's any drainage problems, especially low-lying areas
grass-for good reason. This warm-season annual will that collect water, before the season starts. You can
sneak into a cool-season lawn during hot, dry weather. treat with a preemergence herbicide in fall just as
It spreads seeds that sprout in spring, but the thick the weather cools. Do not use herbicide if your fall
branching stems can root at joints. In a compromised maintenance will include overseeding.
lawn, crabgrass will spread quickly, filling in bare spots.
Treatment: Crabgrass is relatively easy to pull, QUACKGRASS
because the fibrous root bundle grows close to the Similar in appearance to crabgrass but with thicker
surface. As prevention, apply a preemergence herbicide stems, quackgrass is a clump-forming perennial that
in late winter or early spring (crabgrass herbicides are will grow up to 3 ft. tall if left uncut. The bluish-
often part of weed-and-feed combinations). Enrich the green stems are hollow and end in wheatlike spikes.
soil with compost and calcium. Dense, healthy lawns It spreads through rhizomes and can consequently be
rarely allow crabgrass invasion. Mow high. difficult to entirely eradicate.
Treatment: Quackgrass is a tough enemy,
because a tiny piece of rhizome can grow into a brand-
new plant. Don't attempt to pull the grass, because
this may stimulate rhizome growth. Cut back new
growth constantly in spring and carefully apply a non-
selective herbicide to individual plants. The stronger
you make your turfgrass, the more it will crowd out
the quackgrass. But if your entire lawn is infested, you
really have two choices: kill the lawn and start again,
or live with the quackgrass.

crabgrass

ANNUAL BLUEGRASS
As the name says, this is a cool-season annual that is
quick to sprout and spread as soon as warm weather
hits in spring. You can tell it from Kentucky bluegrass
by its lighter green color. It features small white
seedheads, which give the lawn an overall whitish
hue. Annual bluegrass loves moisture and it will pop Quackgrass

164 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

DALLIS GRASS
A clump-forming, warm-season perennial, dalIis grass
sends down deep roots that support long stems growing
out of the crown in a star pattern. The leaves are
coarse, and fingerlike segments sprout from the tips of
the stems. This grass starts growing in early spring and
is a common enemy of warm-season grasses. It thrives
in moist, hot areas. It grows best in lawns that have
been allowed to grow high. Dallis grass reproduces by
seeds and rhizomes and can grow from segments of
rhizomes left over after tilling or pulling the weed. It Barnyard grass
sprouts in spring and thrives throughout summer.
Treatment: Don't bother trying to pull the weed;
it will just come back. Use a postemergence herbicide BARNYARD GRASS
such as glysophate to spot-treat outbreaks of individual A tough survivor, this grass grows in poor soil and
plants, and repeat once a week for three weeks to ens ure neglected and sparse areas of the lawn. It is a
the plant is eradicated. Head off the establishment of shallow-rooted summer annual that usually grows
dallis grass in your turf by mowing regularly. tall and erect, but will form mats if regularly mowed.
It reproduces by seed, and grows signature purple
seedheads on thick, reddish purple stems.
Treatment: The best defense is a highly fertile
soil and dense turf. Individual weeds can be pulled
or, in the case of extensive mats, spot-treated with
a nonselective herbicide. You may have to reapply
it two or three times over the course of one or two
weeks, until the weed is completely dead. Use a
preemergence herbicide in early spring, just as the
Dallis grass weather warms.

Sedges ~

sedges are a group of perennials and annuals that Treating sedges requires persistence and painstaking
resemble common, cool-season grasses. Even in a lawn maintenance. Start by making sure that you are
conscientiously mowed and maintained lawn, sedges conservative in your lawn watering, and that every part
may go unnoticed . The most distinctive features of of the lawn drains well. The best direct treatment is a
most sedge species are their seedheads. Two common selective "nutsedge" herbicide applied in early spring, and
lawn invaders, purple nutsedge and yellow nutsedge, reapplied several times over the following two weeks.
are named for the color of their seed heads. The leaves Repeat at the same time the following year, to ensure the
are very similar to grass leaves, although if you roll a weeds don't reappear.
sedge stem between your fingers, you'll notice that
the stems are actually triangular, as opposed to the
round stems of most turfgrasses. In addition, sedges
have three leaves per stem, while turfgrasses generally
have two.
Sedges are prolific plants that reproduce by seeds,
rhizomes, and tubers. Pulling sedges doesn't have much
effect. It may seem like you have removed all the plant,
while it has actually left tubers behind to sprout the
following year. These weeds prefer wet or even boggy
conditions, in otherwise nutrient-rich soils.

So lvi.ng Lawn Problems • 165

 WITCH GRASS
A summer annual that grows upright with a tasseled
flowerhead and fleshy, shallow roots, witch grass
reproduces by seed. The foliage is hairy and the
seed heads are grayish brown, and spread the seed
when they break off from the stem. The stems
can also root at nodes. Witch grass grows best in
compacted conditions along driveways, walkways and
curbs, and rarely takes hold in well-maintained lawns.
Treatment: It is easy to pull, but important that it
be pulled at first sign of growth, long before seedheads
have a chance to drop and spread seed. It can also be
mowed to prevent seedheads from growing. Apply a
preemergence herbicide in early spring, right after the
weather warms.

Foxtail

FOXTAIL
This summer annual is common in lawns bordering
wild fields and rural areas, from which it will migrate.
It's easily detected by the characteristic seedhead that
looks like its namesake. It is a nuisance for dogs, often
breaking off and sticking deep in their ears. It thrives
in the heat of summer and suffers under repeated
mowing, which can kill the plant. Foxtail prefers rich,
well-drained soil.
Treatment: Foxtails are easy to pull and can be
mowed down, although if seedheads are mowed, the
clippings should be bagged and disposed of. Foxtail
can be controlled or prevented with a preemergence
Witch grass herbicide in early spring.

Moss Madness ~

Moss can't really be considered a weed, because it's more

a symptom than a problem itself. If moss is growing it's
because several undesirable conditions exist in that area
of the lawn. The most prevalent will be excess moisture,
because moss dries out and dies very quickly in a dry,
well-drained environment. Its presence also indicates
infertile soil that is in need of nutrients. It also thrives in
shallow soil and deep shade.
Although you can find both synthetic and organic
moss-killing products (such as herbicidal soap) on the
market, the real issue and the ultimate solution is to
clear up the underlying causes that sparked the moss to
flourish in the first place.

166 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

 Treatment: Nimblewill is easy to pull, and this
is the preferred method of eradication. It thrives
under the same conditions most turfgrasses prefer, so
changing lawn conditions will not affect the growth
of nimblewill. If infestation is widespread, use a
selective herbicide labeled for use on nimblewill, from
late spring through the beginning of summer. Keep
the lawn mowed to the correct height to prevent the
formation of seedheads in fall.

WILD ONION AND WILD GARLIC

Welcome in the herb garden, these species are
Goose grass considered hostile invaders in a lawn. Both grow
from bulbs and reproduce from seeds or bulblets,
making them somewhat different from other weeds.
GOOSE GRASS Wild onions will grow bulbs or seeds on the tip of the
This clump-forming annual can look a little like tall stems if allowed to grow high-their means of
crabgrass when it is cut low, and it will spread into reproducing. Both plants have fleshy, tubular leaves.
mats. The seedheads grow like spikes at the end of They are dormant over winter and spread in spring and
stems, and the stems are prone to collapsing and summer. But the most obvious characteristic of both
laying flat on the ground. It grows widespread roots, these plants is the odor. Wild onion smells strongly of
making it difficult to remove by pulling. Goose grass onion, while wild garlic smells just as strongly of garlic.
likes compacted, poor quality soil. Treatment: These plants are easy to pull or, if
Treatment: Eradicate clumps of goose grass by it is your preference, to harvest. Just make sure you
spot-treating with a non-selective herbicide, waiting dig up all bulbs and bulblets when weeding. Regular
about a week before digging out the plant (the mowing helps keep both wild onion and wild garlic
herbicide should kill the weed's roots, but top growth controlled and stops them from spreading. In the
may still appear alive). You can use a preemergence event of infestation, use a selective herbicide in spring,
herbicide in late spring, but loose soil and dense turf repeating applications as necessary into the summer.
will prevent goose grass infiltration. Ultimately, to get rid of any traces of these two plants,
you'll need to use the herbicide for two to three years .
NIMBLEWILL
This warm-season perennial features wiry, spreading
growth, with flat, bluish-green leaves. The appearance
mimics many turfgrasses, but if allowed to grow, it
will produce feather-like seedheads in fall. Nimblewill
spreads through both seeds and stolons.

Nimblewill Wild garlic

So lvi.ng Lawn Problems • 167

 I Broadleaf Weeds
BROAD LEAF PLANTAIN
One of the most common weeds, this perennial
intruder grows light green leaves in a rosette pattern.
It grows slender, tall seed stalks in fall, and the plant is
deeply rooted with strong fleshy roots and a stubborn
central taproot. Like many other weeds, broadleaf
plantain thrives in constantly moist, compacted soil.
Treatment: Although pulling the complete plant
is work and not always successful (this works best Dandelion
if you catch them young, long before the seedheads
develop), broadleaf plantain is easy to eradicate with
selective post-emergence broadleaf herbicides. Treatment: Dandelions are relatively easy to treat
with a selective preemergence herbicide applied in
fall. One application should be plenty to kill the entire
plant. You can also use this same treatment in early
spring. In the course of the season, use non-selective
broadleaf herbicides for spot treatments; pulling the
plants is effective if you remove all or most of the root.
Note: Research indicated that dandelions wear out and
die if you keep after them, although there is some re-
growth from incompletely removed roots.

CURLY DOCK
Reddish leaves with wavy margins define this
perennial, and make it look a little like a dandelion
that is not in bloom. It spreads by seeds that are grown
on a tall, thin, green seedheads, but is fairly easy to
contain and eradicate.

Broadleaf plantain

DANDELION
There's no mistaking this flashy lawn invader. The
bright yellow flowers are markers of spring in fields
everywhere, and in lawns across the country. The
flowers are followed closely by puffy snowball
seedheads that explode and send seeds scattering to
the wind. The serrated leaves grow out from a central
crown, which is fed by a deep, tight-holding root. curly dock

Thinking Green: Dandy-Lions ~

If you're willing to put up with the appearance of a few dandelions in the lawn, you can realize some benefit from them.
Dandelion greens are edible and can be added to salads (wash them very well first) . They are also a favorite treat for
domesticated rodents, such as guinea pigs. In your soil, the root growth creates gaps for earthworms and other beneficial
organisms, and the flowers are an early food source for honeybees.

168 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

 English daisy

Treatment: You can pull English daisy plants by

hand, but you need to be sure to get the whole plant,
Chickweed
including all of the taproot. Fertilize to increase the
nutrient density in the soil, and if you suspect they will
be a problem, use a general weed-and-feed product
Treatment: Curly dock is one of the less resistant that includes a selective broadleaf herbicide.
weeds, and can usually be eradicated with a single
application of a general broadleaf herbicide. Individual SPEEDWELL
plants can be dug out as long as all of the plant is In the right place and circumstance, speedwell is
removed. Mowing regularly to standard heights usually considered a groundcover for its habit of spreading far
keeps the plant from spreading seed. and wide in a tight-knit mat. It's actually a wildflower,
with stems filled with pretty purple blossoms over
CHICKWEED tiny, hairy green round leaves . However, in a lawn, it's
A common, mat-forming annual, chickweed does not one of the first weeds to appear, usually right at the
usually infiltrate healthy, dense lawns. Instead, it tends end of winter. Speedwell loves cool, wet conditions
to grow into bare patches or areas that would not and thrives in shade. It's a vigorous opponent to
support vigorous grass growth. These include heavily homeowners looking for a pristine lawn, and in
shaded and moist corners of the yard, and gravel addition to spreading seed, mowing can spread the
pathways. It grows yellow-green leaves along spreading plant. Small sections will root and grow independently.
stems with small white flowers in spring. The stems Treatment: The first line of defense against
can root at nodes. The seeds germinate in early fall. speedwell is to make sure every part of the lawn is
Treatment: Chickweed is a very easy weed to well drained, and that any shady areas are opened up
pull, and extracting the entire plant is simple and by cutting back trees and shrubs to allow plentiful
practically effortless. To prevent recurrence, you sunlight over the lawn. Hand pulling is effective and
should improve the soil or conditions in the area easy, but you really have to be sure you get the whole
the weed covered, and if the problem is severe, you plant, because one small piece can grow anew. If you
can treat with a general post-emergence broadleaf decide to attack with chemicals, you'll need to use
herbicide, or proactively, with a pre-emergence a selective broad leaf herbicide, and probably more
product in early fall, just as the weather cools. than one application will be necessary to completely
eradicate the speedwell.
ENGLISH DAISY
A favorite perennial in the flower garden, this
flowering plant will quickly invade the lawn if given a
chance. The pretty white flowers with yellow centers
grow over softly lobed leaves, starting in spring and
sometimes in fall. It does best in lawn soil that is
deficient in nutrients and consistently wet. Growth of
the tall stems is fueled by a deep taproot, and the plant
spreads through seeds. Before you rid your lawn of this
plant, cut the flowers for indoor displays and, if you're
so inclined, make tinctures or teas from the greens. Speedwell

SolVing Lawn Problems • 169

 HENBIT
Henbit is a winter annual, following an unusual cycle
of growth. It features sprawling square stems with
somewhat fuzzy, round, scalloped leaves. H enbit
grows from seed, sprouting in fall, and then growing
throughout winter, only to bloom in mid spring, after
which it dies. It's important to know this cycle if you're
going to eradicate the plant.
Treatment: It's fairly easy to pull hen bit by hand,
but if the weed seems out of control in your lawn, you
can use weed-and-feed post-emergence application
using a product labeled for henbit. You can also apply
pre-emergence herbicide in early fall to kill seeds.
Prostrate knotweed

PROSTRATE KNOTWEED
Yet another annoying mat-forming weed, prostrate
knotweed is a summer annual that starts growing
as soon as the soil warms. Like many other weeds ,
it thrives in poor soil and in problem areas such as
high-traffic driveway edges, along shortcut paths
across the lawn, and in similar locations in which
soil is compacted. The plant sends out wiry stems
with smooth, oval, blue green leaves. It also produces
a tough taproot. Prostrate knotweed reproduces
Henbit from seed.

Clover: Friend or Foe? ~

Many organic gardeners would contend that far from

being an invader that needs to be fought or eradicated,
clover should be embraced as an ally in the war against
other weeds and nutrient deficiencies.
Traditional white clover, with its small pretty flowers
and signature simple round leaves in groups of three or-
if you're lucky-four, can be a boon to lawn health. Clover
is infected by rhizobia, a soil bacteria that spurs the plant
to create nodules on roots that "fix" or hold nitrogen . This
allows clover to convert nitrogen in the air for use in the
plant. Mowing and mulching clover in the lawn helps feed
the lawn with slow-release nitrogen (and it also smells
fantastic) . If the lawn contains 5 to 10 percent clover, the
clover can supply almost all the yearly nitrogen needs of
the turfgrass. Clover also remains green all year round,
and can help make the lawn more resistant to disease.
The look certainly isn't for everyone, and certainly not
for the homeowner trying to create an immaculate lawn.
But if you can put up with a few round leaves amongst your
blades of grass, you'll enjoy a bounty of organic benefits.

170 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BEITER LAWN

 Treatment: In spite of the taproot, it's not
difficult to pull individual prostrate knotweed plants.
You do, however, have to make sure to get all the root
and crown to eliminate the plant. Treat infestations in
early spring, with a selective broadleaf post-emergence
herbicide. Here again, improving the low-quality
conditions that allow the plant to flourish will go a
long way toward preventing its return.

GROUND IVY (CREEPING CHARLIE)

A highly aggressive perennial, ground ivy can be a
serious threat to your lawn. The plant features various- Mallow
sized round leaves with scalloped edges. It spreads
both by seed and by creeping stems that can root. It
forms a dense mat that can quickly crowd out healthy Treatment: You can pull mallow, but once
lawns, and although it prefers poor quality soil and it's established, you'll usually need to be a bit
shade, it can thrive in sun and loam as well. more aggressive than hand-pulling each plant.
Treatment: If you notice ground ivy in nearby Add nitrogen to the soil in the form of fertilizer or
yards, chances are you're going to be dealing with it organic topdressing, and mow regularly to the proper
in yours eventually. Take quick and decisive action. height for the grass. Use a weed-and-feed product
Optimum lawn and soil health are essential, but in labeled for use on mallow, and spot treat with a non-
and of themselves, no guarantee of deterrence. Spot selective herbicide.
treat with a non-selective herbicide, and apply a
selective broadleaf herbicide in fall. You can also use a GARLIC MUSTARD
weed-and-feed product labeled for use on ground ivy. It may sound delicious to some, but garlic mustard
is an invasive , biennial herb that poses a significant
ecological threat because it routinely outcompetes
native plants. Its seeds can remain viable in the
ground for five years, complicating its eradication. In
its first year the plant exists as a low-to-the-ground
rosette of leaves. In its second year it will grow stalks
that can reach up to 3 feet in height if not mown.
Treatment: Thorough hand-pulling of the
entire plant can be effective for light infestations,
but be sure to remove the plant immediately. For
larger infestations, cut any flowering stems within a
few inches of the ground, and treat with a systemic
glyphosate herbicide.

Ground ivy

MALLOW
Distinctive, dark green crinkled leaves set mallow
apart from other weeds. It's also one of the more
tenacious species, growing into a low mat, with pink
flowers in the leaf joints throughout summer. It has a
significant taproot and will spread wherever the soil is
deficient in nitrogen and other nutrients, and high in
potassium. It can be an annual or biennial, but either
form is difficult to eradicate. Garlic mustard

Solving Lawn Problems • 171

 I Fighting Weeds Naturally
The first and best weapon in your war on weeds
should be a strong, dense, healthy lawn. Even if you
manage to accomplish this, however, there are many
aggressive species that just won't quit until they've
infiltrated and attempted to take over the lawn. But
before you go reaching for chemical herbicides, get
busy pulling weeds. Although some weeds are so
well rooted that pulling them can be fruitless, many
weeds can be pulled easily and effectively. Narrow
leaf weeds, for example, are best controlled with hand
pulling. If they do come back, pull them again and
you weaken the plant further until it no longer has the
energy to start from scratch.
If weeding is not an option for you, there are a
number of natural alternatives to spot treat weeds
of all kinds. These include pouring salted boiling
water over the weed, and spraying with vinegar or
A simple weed puller can make extracting even deep-
citrus-based solutions. You'll find organic spot weed- rooted weeds such as these dandelions a fairly easy chore. The
treatment sprays at home centers and garden stores, tool also helps ensure that you pull as much of the root system
and some natural food stores. as possible so the plant is less likely to grow back .

•
--
Corn gluten is an all-natural herbicide that also contains beneficial nitrogen. It will prevent weed seeds from germinating but will
not kill existing weeds. Proper application time is critical.

172 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

 Perhaps the most lethal weapon in th e natural nitrogen rich fertilizer your lawn needs from oth er
lawn care armory is corn gluten. This by-product source s. Corn gluten breaks down slowly, so the
of corn processing is used as a pre-emergence nitrogen is released over time , and it's a completely
treatment for weeds of all kinds. The gluten is environmentally safe option.
spread with a spreader just like fertilizer or lawn Th e drawbacks to corn gluten are its substantial
seed. It must be laid down two to three weeks before price tag and th e fact that you can't spre ad it within
seed germination for the weed you're attacking, six wee ks of overseeding a lawn or the n ew seeds
however. Contact your local cooperative exte nsion won't germinate. It also won't affect existing annual ,
service office to find out weed germination date s in p e rennial, or biennial wee ds .
your area. Just the same , corn gluten is part of a group of
Corn gluten h as certain ben efits in addition to natural solutions, all of which should be considered
its h erbicidal qualitie s. It is about 10% nitrogen , before you turn to the riskier use of chemical
so an application can gre atly re duc e the amount of weed killers.

Thinking Green: Torching Weeds ~

Some weeds can be eradicated by pulling and some can't.

Another option is using a basic DIY torch, or a special
"flamer" with a feed hose and a long wand. You can direct
an intense, tiny flame exactly where you want it go. Then
burn the weed to death. It lends a whole new meaning to
the term "scorched earth."
The heat of the flame not only fries top growth,
it causes the liquids in the entire plant-including
the roots-to become superheated . In most cases,
a single burning will destroy an annual weed
outright. Perennial weeds, and those with deep,
stubborn root systems may take more than one
burning, but keep at it. They too will eventually die
under the flame.
Safety, of course, is paramount when using a flamer.

• Use an igniter like the type used to light

gas grills. Matches can result in nasty finger
burns. Better yet, purchase a torch with
electronic ignition .
• Don't use a torch near flammable yard waste and
debris. This includes a dry layer of thatch, tanbark
pathways, or in a lawn that has been parched
by drought.
• Use the torch for only a second or two at a time,
repeating as necessary to completely destroy the
weed. Sustaining the flame too long can damage soil A propane torch dispenses with just about any
weed quickly. Look for a torch with a hose and wand-
and adjacent grass.
style head, and push-button ignition. Hooked up to a
• Handle the torch or flamer with care, making sure not 20-pound propane tank, this type of torch is portable
to contact the hot tip with your skin, and storing the and doesn't require you to bend over or work on
fuel tank out of reach of children. your knees.

So lvi.ng Lawn Problems • 173

 I Synthetic Weed Killers
The field of chemistry has done wonders in coming up Contact herbicides kill any plant matter to which
with ways to fight any invasion of weeds in your lawn. they are applied. This means top growth will be
You'll find an amazing diversity of herbicides-the quickly killed. But that doesn't necessarily mean that
name for any chemical designed to kill plant life-at the weed is gone-its roots may be able to produce
nurseries, garden stores, and home centers. Many of another plant. Systemic herbicides infiltrate the entire
these are even formulated to eradicate specific classes plant and are more complete solutions. The entire
of weeds. plant is killed.
To use any herbicidal product correctly and Selective formulas are created for one category,
responsibly, you need to determine if it's the right such as broad-leaf weeds, to destroy only those plants
type of herbicide for the weeds you're attempting and leave other surrounding flora alive. Non-selective
to eliminate, and for your lawn, yard, and garden. formulas kill plant life indiscriminately, and will take
You'll choose between granular and liquid out turfgrasses as quickly as weeds. These are usually
products, but beyond that, there are several other sold as spot-use sprays that can kill a single plant or
important distinctions . group with a directed application.
Pre-emergence herbicides kill seeds as they In using any herbicide it's essential that you
germinate, before they have the chance to "emerge" use it at the right stage of the growing season.
as plants. They are most effective at permanently You should also err on the side of caution,
eradicating annual weeds, although they may work using less than you need, rather than more.
on some species of perennials that grow solely from You can always reapply an herbicide, but using
seeds. They will be far less effective against weeds too much can cause dangerous side effects and
that spread through rhizomes or stolons. damage your lawn just as surely as it destroys
Post-emergence herbicides are formulated weeds. Lastly, look for the least toxic forms
to kill existing weeds. They are organized into two you can buy; these include glyphosate and
interrelated pairs of categories: glufosinate-ammonium formulations.

Spot treatments of selective

formulations are often the best use of
chemical herbicides.

174 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

 Herbicidal Soap ~

An alternative to more toxic compounds, herbicidal

soap can be used as a broad-spectrum, non-selective
herbicidal for spot treatments. The soap works by
destroying plant cell walls where it contacts the
plant, drying out and killing the tissue. Herbicidal soap
works best on seedlings and moss, and may require
several applications to effectively destroy weeds with
deep taproots, or perennial weeds. The best part is
that the soap breaks down completely in two days.

Pre-emergence herbicide

HERBICIDll SOAP

post-emergence herbicide

Warning ~
Chemicals that are formulated to destroy plant life • If you're applying granular herbicide with a spreader,
usually are harmful to humans and other animals as make sure that the spreader is properly calibrated.
well. Herbicide formulations are regulated and meant to • If you're spraying an herbicide, don't do it on a
be safe for home use when used as directed and in a windy day.
cautious, mindfu l manner. The Environmental Protection • Keep pets and chi ldren off the lawn for 24 hours after
Agency classifies herbicides with Roman numeral applying herbicides.
ratings of I through IV, from the most toxic (I) to the least • Wear a mask and gloves (whether the label says to
(IV). To be on the safe side, limit your use of chemical or not).
herbicides to those rated III or IV. But even with the safer • Take your shoes off before going into the house, after
formulations you must follow all safe-use practices you've walked over an area treated with herbicides.
and precautions: • Take steps to limit any runoff from watering after
applying herbicides. You should prevent them from
• Follow to the letter the instructions on the bag or making their way into the storm drain system,
bottle of herbicide. waterways, or adjacent properties.

So lvi.ng Lawn Problems • 175

 I Defeating Harmful Insects & Pests
P erhaps the greatest challenge when dealing with
insect invaders in your lawn is identifying if the
problem you're having is actually caused by insects
the roots, while others will eat top growth. Still others
act like vampires, sucking the juice out of grass blades
and leaving toxins behind. However they operate, all
and, if so, which species. That is made all the harder insects are attracted by a healthy, dense, fast-growing
because signs of insect damage can look like a lot of lawn. It's a feast waiting to be plundered.
other problems, including drought, disease, and pet Finding insects is a matter of looking for them
damage. Added to that is the fact that insects have where and when they are active. If you've detected
very rapid life cycles. They change quickly, well within damage that you think is insect related, you need to
the course of a lawn's growing season. That means actually see the insects to confirm your diagnosis.
that there is usually a period when the pests are most Dig under the sod and check the soil. Cutworms, for
vulnerable, creating a window for eradication. Treating instance, eat the roots, so that the sod will come up
for insect infestation at the wrong time is just as too easily and you'll see the actual worms. Inspect the
inefficient as using the wrong treatment. The stages area at night as well, because some insects are only
of a typical insect lifecycle include hatching from an active after dark. If possible, capture one or more of
egg, from which they go into the larval stage (the stage the insects and either use the photo identifications in
where the most damage is often caused), pupation the pages that follow, or take it to a local cooperative
in a cocoon-like phase, and emergence as adult extension office or nursery to have the insect
winged insects. identified. The experts who can identify the insect will
Other insects, such as chinch bugs, go through more than likely be able to instruct you on appropriate
a different development cycle. They become nymphs eradication methods.
after hatching from eggs, essentially becoming small If the damage happens during one part of the
adults without wings. As they mature, their wings grow year, every year, chances are you have an insect that is
and they take flight. If you try to fight the insects at moving on after it matures. In that case, you want to
this point, you'll have little success. mark the calendar and treat the pest in the larval stage
Another difference separating insect species is to prevent recurrence. Visually identify the insect
the way in which they attack the lawn. Some go for before you attempt to fight it.

Testing for Insects ~

There is no room for guesswork when you're determining

what treatment to use for an insect problem. To confirm
wh ich pest you have, turn to some simple tests. Discover
chinch bugs by cutting the bottom out of a coffee can
or simi lar can, sinking it into the lawn several inches,
and filling the aboveground portion with water. Keep
filling to maintain the level of water in the can and, if you
have chinch bugs, they'll float to the top within about
five minutes. You can also detect mole crickets and sod
webworms this way.
Another more generalized test is to mix a couple
of tablespoons of lemon dishwashing soap in a gallon
of water. Slowly pour the mixture over a section of lawn
about a yard square. Within about 8 to 10 minutes, any
mole crickets, bill bugs, cutworms, and sod webworms wi ll
come right to the surface, driven out by the soap.

176 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

 Whatever damage you find, and whatever insect soil, as well as affecting people who use the lawn and
is causing it, you should consider the simplest, most nearby natural resources such as water tables . Besides,
natural solutions first. More extreme eradication there are so many natural treatments that chances are
methods such as pesticides can have serious you can solve your problems without ever turning to
consequences on other beneficial organisms in the synthetic insecticides or pesticides.

Not all evidence of insect damage is as apparent as the sawdust-like residue left by billbugs. Normally, you'll need to see the
insect itself.

Integrated Pest Management ~

Integrated Pest Management (lPM) is a relatively new concept • Prevention. This is the first step in dealing with pests,
in lawn care and gardening. Focused on environmentally and can include changing fertilizer schedules to slow
beneficial practices in pest control, it involves viewing the down growth so that harmful insects will view the
yard as a complete ecosystem where anything you do to one lawn less favorably, and seeding with different grass
living organism affects all the other organisms. The concept species that the insects you're dealing with don't like.
clearly lays out four guiding criteria, including: • Control. This comes last, once you've definitively
identified the pest, determined the extent of the
• Action thresholds. or the point at which the damage, and attempted whatever form of prevention
number of pests or the amount of damage indicates might be available to you . Taking action to control
the need for some action . In lawn care, this translates the pests begins with the least risky and least
to determining if the damage or pest population toxic solution first, working toward more powerful
you've detected is modest enough that you should alternatives only after the initial attempts at control
take a wait-and-see attitude, or if you need to take or eradication prove unsuccessful.
action to prevent further damage to your lawn. Small
spot problems may not be worth treating aggressively. Although IPM was developed as a more ecologically
• Monitor and Identify. Where IPM is concerned- focused way to solve pest problems, the method includes
and where sound lawn-care pest control is the possible use of chemical pesticides. This means it is
concerned-it's essential to see and understand not considered an organic process by organic gardeners.
what's happening, and verify that the pest you think is Just the same, it is a sound method, and a good one for
causing the damage is actually causing the damage. the homeowner to follow in attacking a lawn pest problem.

So lvi.ng Lawn Problems • 177

 I Natural Pest Controls
Insects are attracted to your lawn because it offers broadcast across the entire lawn. The lawn should
them something they want. If you make the lawn a be thoroughly moist before nematodes are applied. If
less hospitable place, sometimes that takes care of you can, wait until the sun sets to apply nematodes-
the problem. The two most common conditions in direct sunlight can sterilize them. Nematodes are
a lawn that draw harmful insects are a thick layer of at their most effective and aggressive when the soil
thatch and persistent moisture. Dethatching your temperature is between 65 and 90°F.
lawn not only improves overall lawn health, it can Bacillus thuringiensis, known as BT, is
also take away the habitat of insects that are causing another common and effective biological control. The
other problems. Likewise, if you simply improve your many different strains of this bacteria are used in
watering routine or increase drainage in wet areas applications from vegetable gardens to lawns (when
of the lawn, you'll be taking steps to deny refuge to you purchase BT you want to make sure you're buying
moisture-loving insects. Biological controls are your the strain applicable to the insects you're fighting).
next point of attack. Typically, this means increasing BT is effective against white grubs, sod webworms
the population of beneficial organisms that prey on and other harmful worms, and is available at most
harmful insects. large, well-stocked garden centers and nurseries. It
Beneficial nematodes-microorganisms that must be kept refrigerated before use, should be mixed
have an appetite for the larvae of many lawn pests- with water according to the package instructions,
are one of the most common biological controls. They and applied with a sprayer. One application rarely
will aggressively attack and destroy common white kills the entire population of insects you're trying to
grubs, cutworm and sod webworm larvae, army worms, eradicate, so be prepared to reapply as necessary every
and other pests. Nematodes, sold in bags containing two weeks.
several million of the microscopic roundworms, are Endophytes are another way to fight detrimental
also easy to install. They are mixed with lukewarm insects. The microscopic endophyte fungi infect
water and then applied to the problem area or even the grass without hurting it, but make blades and

White grubs are one of the most common lawn pests, and Nematodes are microscopic organisms (parasitic worms,
one of the most easily eradicated with organic controls. actually) that attack several insects that can damage your
lawn, including lawn grubs, cutworms, and slugs.

178 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

leaf stalks toxic to insects such as chinch bugs, All of these solutions-or a combination-can
sod webworms and billbugs. This is a longer-term be highly effective. Most of these work slower than
solution because you'll need to overseed with grass chemical insecticides and on a more limited range of
seed that has been inoculated with endophytes. insects in many cases. But the trade-off is that they do
Once those seeds begin growing, the insects begin minimal damage and are environmentally responsible.
dying. Only a limited number of grass species are In the end, one or more of these treatments can solve
available as inoculated seeds, mostly comprising just about any insect problem you'll encounter in
cool-season grasses. your lawn.
Botanical insecticides are derived from plant
sources, so they break down quickly after use and are
fairly harmless to humans and animals. Neem is one
of the most common. Derived from a tropical tree, it
can kill immature feeding insects and has been known
to repel Japanese beetles so that they cannot lay the
eggs that result in white grubs.
Pyrethin is a common organic insecticide,
derived from the daisy. It is a broad-spectrum
insecticide that should be used carefully because it
can kill both beneficial and harmful insects. It's best
used as a spot treatment for localized infestations
of sod webworms or white grubs. It is sometimes
combined with synthetic additives to amplify its
effects and power, and doing so can make it toxic to
other insects such as armyworms and aphids, although
it can also become toxic to beneficial insects and
harmful to the environment.
Rotenone is extracted from an Asian plant. It has
long been used as a broad-spectrum insecticide that Bacillus thuringiensis is a natural bacteria that is used
is slow to work and also somewhat dangerous for pets to combat caterpillars and some types of worms that
and humans. damage lawns.

Diatomaceous Earth ~
Made from the ground up fossils of ancient plants called
diatoms, diatomaceous earth is a highly effective and
completely organic insecticide. The material is a fine dust
that doesn't harm humans or animals, but slices the outer
skin that serves as a skeleton for most insects, or shreds
their digestive systems. You should use only agricultural-
or food-grade diatomaceous earth (there's a more harmful
type used for pool filtration), and dust it over any lawn
area with an insect problem. You can spread it by hand, or
with a spreader over larger areas. Either way, you should
wear a high-quality dust mask when you are working with
diatomaceous earth. It usually works within 48 hours. It's
most effective against ants and aphids, although it will
harm many types of top-dwelling insects. It can also harm
beneficial insects, so it should not be used as a regular Diatomaceous earth is the active ingredient in this
preventative treatment. natural insecticide product.

Solving Lawn Problems • 179

 I Beneficial Insects
One of the best ways to eradicate harmful pests is by
enticing their natural predators into your yard. These
beneficial insects can be the best, most ecological
solution to solving pest problems in the lawn.
Although you can actually buy and introduce species
such as lady beetles, the best way to bring in the good
guys is by creating an environment they find attractive.
This usually means adding a diversity of flowering Lady beetle
plants, and a water source doesn't hurt either. The
more diverse your yard and garden, the more diverse
the insect population will be-including a range of
beneficials (as well as birds that feast on grubs!).
If you want to foster populations of beneficial
insects, you should also limit the chemical controls you
use in the lawn. Pesticides of any sort may drive away or
kill beneficial insects as guickly as they do the harmful
types. The more chemicals you introduce for whatever
reason, the more you put insect populations at risk.
Some of the beneficial insects that you should
keep any eye out for include: Ground beetle
Lady beetles. Popularly known as lady bugs,
these easily recognized insects are the groundskeeper's
friend (although some species, such as the Japanese
Lady Beetle, can overrun your home). The lady beetle
feasts on aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The
larvae, especially, are hungry eaters that can put a
huge dent in detrimental insect populations.
Ground beetle. Don't make the mistake of trying
to eliminate this ugly friend. The ground beetle with
its iridescent body and spindly black legs won't win
any beauty contests, but it will eat grubs, armyworms,
and cutworms .
Braconid wasps. Are tiny creatures that lay eggs
inside of their prey or in the pupal cocoons of the prey
larvae. In this way, they destroy aphids, grubs, and
other insects.

Braconid wasp

The lady beetle is one of the most effective beneficial insects

any homeowner can hope for, feasting on a range of lawn- Lacewing
damaging pests.

180 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

 Lacewing. Named for its distin ctive, delicate
gossamer win gs, th e lacewing m ay look like a fragile
beauty, but th ey're anythin g but dainty wh en it com es
to attacking aphids . In fac t, th eir larvae are som e times
known as "aphid lion s" for an almost insatiable
appe tite. T he larvae will also eat other h armful insects
in the egg stage.
Big-eyed bugs. Appropria tely named for th eir
bulgin g eyes, the se in sects are a feared enemy of
chin ch bugs . T hey are tiny and green in th e eas t, and
brown in the west of North America. But no m atter
where they call hom e, they go after chinch bugs,
leafhoppers, aphids , and caterpillars. Big-eyed bug

Using Pesticides ~

Chemical pesticides and insecticides should be the Clean all equipment thoroughly after use, rinsing it
options of last resort when you're dealing with an insect several times and allowing itto dry thoroughly. If you use
problem in the lawn. Although pesticide companies a sprayer for herbicides or other applications, it's a good
formulate their products to be as safe as possible, the fact idea to use a separate one for pesticides, because even
remains that any synthetic pesticide is potentially harmful after rinsing, some residue remains.
to animals and humans, and they have the potential to Follow all instructions to the letter and use
damage the environment as well. commonsense safety practices, and you'll quickly
Proper pesticide usage begins with identifying eradicate the detrimental insects. Always follow up,
exactly the insect you're trying to eradicate. Once though, with healthy lawn maintenance to create an
you're certain of the species, the next step is to read environment that discourages a recurrence of the pest.
pesticide labels closely and completely. The law sets out Pesticides are some of the most dangerous
stringent requirements for pesticide manufacturers and chemicals you'll ever use in your yard, so take every
outlines what they must include on the label. You'll find precaution necessary to apply them in the safest
relevant safety information along with a list of insects way possible.
the pesticide is used to treat. Only use a pesticide if
the insect you're targeting is listed. Pesticides are also • Wear appropriate clothing, including long pants, a
labeled for use on either warm- or cool-season lawns. long-sleeve shirt, sturdy shoes, and rubber gloves.
Don't use it if it is recommended for a different season • Protect your lungs. Wear a high-quality dust mask
than your lawn. when dusting with pesticide, and a tight-fitting
Pesticide regulations cover the user as well respirator when spraying it. Look for specific masks
as the manufacturer. You are legally obligated to approved by the National Institute for Safety and
use pesticides in a safe manner in accordance to Health (NIOSH).
the manufacturer's instructions and prevailing best • Clean up completely. Thoroughly rinse equipment and
standards and practices. Pay particular attention to rubber gloves, and wash the clothes you used during
dosing. Using exactly the recommended amount of application in a load by themselves.
pesticide is a key step in insect eradication. More is not • Choose your product carefully. Use the pesticide with
better, nor is too little. the least risks and side effects, and the one most
Apply granular pesticides just as you would spread targeted to the insect you need to eradicate.
fertilizer, but use a drop spreader, not a broadcast or • Store pesticides properly. They should be locked up in
hand-held model. Spray liquid formulas with a hose end a cabinet out of the reach of children .
sprayer for pre-mixed types, and a pressure sprayer for • Dispose of leftover, out-of-date pesticide according to
concentrated liquid pesticides. Never apply pesticide when local sanitation codes.
it's raining or about to rain, or on windy days. • Keep all pesticides in their original containers.

So lvi.ng Lawn Problems • 181

 I Common Problem Insects
This photo guide will help you identify the culprit
you're dealing with in diagnosing lawn damage. Keep
in mind that some insects are nocturnal, and have
to be detected at night-a Hashlight and patience
will be your best friends in this type of detective
work. Some underground enemies, such as grubs, are
visible only when you lift an area of the lawn. Once
you've identified the villain, follow the steps listed to
eradicate them.

BLACK ANTS & FIRE ANTS

Black ants are generally beneficial to a lawn's ecology,
but may become a problem when colonies grow large
and several anthills appear. Although they are limited
to certain areas of the deep south and a few locations
in the north of the country, fire ants are a much
greater nuisance than black ants. They build bigger
hills in the lawn than other species do, and they are
Chinch bug (nymph)
far more aggressive. Fire ants will swarm pets and
humans alike, causing painful stings that can lead to
anaphylactic shock.
Treatment: You can get rid of the black anthills CHINCH BUGS
by physically destroying them and raking them out, One of the most common lawn pests, chinch bugs
or pouring boiling water into them. If the problem have tiny black bodies and white wings. The females
persists, and becomes overwhelming, turn to an age- lay eggs in late spring or early summer, which hatch
old remedy of borax (boric acid) mixed with sugar- into a stage called nymphs. The red nymphs cause
although make sure no small children or pets will most of the damage to grass plants by sucking juices
be in the area. Make an effective boric acid trap by from the grass blades, leaving toxins in their place, and
forming a hollow ball out of several layers of aluminum creating round, yellow patches in sunny parts of the
foil, filling it with a borax-and-sugar mix, and punching lawn. The nymphs tend to cause damage in the middle
small holes in it. of summer in cool-season lawns, and in late spring in
To get rid of fire ants, use spinosad, a natural warm-season lawns.
botanical pesticide that is broadcast around the fire Treatment: Dealing with chinch bugs begins
ant hill in spring or fall. with regular lawn watering. The insects proliferate
in drought conditions, and don't like moist soil. You
can also treat them with insecticidal soaps, applied in
liquid solution over the affected area. This treatment
may need to be repeated to completely eradicate the
infestation. You can also spot treat with pyrethin.

SOD WEBWORMS
The first sign of sod webworms is usually the adult
moths that appear over your lawn in spring during
the early evening. The moths lay eggs that hatch two
to three weeks later. Signs that the larvae are causing
damage include small sections of dead grass about the
size of a drink coaster. The detrimental larvae are just
under an inch long, with black-spotted grey bodies.
The larvae burrow into thatch during the day, and feed
Fire ant on blades of grass during the evening.

182 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

Sod webworm

Treatment: Like many lawn pests, sod webworms White grub

infiltrate and thrive in poorly maintained lawns, which
makes improving the health of your lawn the first step
in treating an infestation. Dethatching will remove WHITE GRUBS
the hiding places for the destructive larvae. Beneficial These ubiquitous insects are actually the larvae
nematodes are extremely effective against the larvae, of Japanese beetles, along with a few other beetle
especially when applied shortly after they hatch. Turn types. If you find beetles on your roses or vegetables,
to BT and pyrethrin for severe infestations on which chances are you have some level of white grub
other solutions have not worked. problem that can result in extensive damage to grass
plant roots. The grubs sever the roots from the plant,
BILLBUGS causing dead patches and bare areas in spring. As if
Adult bill bugs are tiny beetle-like insects, but the that weren't enough, grubs are an irresistible attraction
threat to your lawn is posed by the larvae. The white to burrowing predators, like moles and skunks.
grubs with orange heads eat the blades of grass, Treatment: The most common and effective
causing small areas of dead lawn, much like you would treatment for killing Japanese beetle white grubs
see with sod webworm larvae. However, billbug larvae is milky spore. Other species can be treated with
leave a sawdust-like scattering of waste product near beneficial nematodes.
the crown of a grass plant. The larvae are most active
and destructive in the middle of summer. MOLE CRICKETS
Treatment: As with other grubs, the first line The mole cricket can easily be mistaken for the
of defense is a healthy lawn, specifically a lack of common cricket. The difference is that the mole
thatch. Dethatching is the first step in treatment of cricket has a larger head with thicker front legs-and
billbug infestations. The botanical insecticides neem it is much more destructive. Feeding on grass plant
and rotenone are effective, as is insecticidal soap. You roots, it tunnels under the soil, creating significant
can also turn to beneficial nematodes to eradicate cavities that can cause the lawn to feel spongy
obvious infestations. underfoot. An infestation will be quite apparent; aside
from the tunnels, the crickets are pretty nonchalant
about appearing openly in the grass.

Mole cricket

Billbug Common cricket

So lvi.ng Lawn Problems • 183

 Treatment: Beneficial nematodes are effective a widespread infestation , you can use an application of
against mole cricket eggs, but this control needs to be insecticidal soap.
applied with fairly precise timing to kill the crickets
before they hatch. Neem is also somewhat effective, CUTWORMS
as long as it is watered into the soil deeply. Common to colder parts of the country, cutworms
often migrate from vegetable or flower gardens to
APHIDS the lawn. They are actually caterpillars (the larvae
Also known as greenbugs, these are tiny, nearly of moths ) and are plenty ugly, with plump and dark
transparent insects that are hard to detect without brown or black bodies. They are nocturnal and feed on
careful examination. They suck the fluids out of grass grass blades in one area, causing circular dead spots in
blades (and many other garden plants), while injecting the lawn. Generally, you should treat them aggressively
a toxin that eventually kills the plant. Grass will slowly if there are more than 5 or 6 worms in a square yard
turn brown in small areas under an aphid attack. of sod.
Treatment: Aphids are a favorite food of many Treatment: BT is the solution of choice for
different beneficial insects. They can also be washed cutworm infestations, although beneficial nematodes
off the grass with a vigorous blast of water. If you have and pyrethin spray are also very effective.

Aphids Cutworm

Thinking Green: Oil's Well ~

When it comes to repelling unwanted inhabitants in your with clove oil to create a nerve toxin that is fatal to many
lawn, you can turn to nature's own defenses-specifically, insects. Orange peel extract is used in several natural
plant oils. For instance, castor oil made from the seeds of insecticide sprays because it tends to degrade and
the castor bean plant can be applied to the soil to send destroy the respiratory systems of several insect species.
moles and voles packing. Rosemary oil can be combined When it comes to defending plants-including the grass
with pure peppermint oil to create an insecticide that plants that make up your lawn-few formulations can
fights chinch bugs. Peppermint oil can also be combined beat nature's own.

184 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

I Getting Rid of Skunks and Raccoons
Normally, skunks, raccoons, and (in the south)
armadillos cause few problems for the average lawn.
There simply isn't much of interest to lure these
mammals into your yard. That is, until they discover
that a treasure trove of grubs is easily accessible just
below the surface of the sod.
That's when the trouble starts. Even if the grubs
themselves aren't causing much damage, you'll
suddenly find sections of sod pulled up, with the soil
underneath tilled . It may be a mystery until you realize
that these wild raiders tend to eat at night or very early
in the morning.
You can build a fence or try one of several home
remedies such as motion-activated safety lights, or
predator urine. But don't count on these solutions .
Raccoons are wily and tend not to be put off by
light or noise, while skunks are generally fearless
for good reason (sharp claws and a unique defense
mechanism ).
In the end, if you have an ongoing problem that
you can trace to any of these three animals, the only
real permanent way to dissuade them from digging up
your lawn is to send them to greener pastures. If you
eradicate your grub population, these animals have
little reason to visit your lawn, or dig it up. If you spot
raccoons or skunks in your city yard, notify animal
control immediately, because there is a good chance
that they are rabid, hurt, or otherwise dangerous.
Never attempt to handle or deal with a wild animal
that seems disoriented or aggressive.

When the Pest is a Pet ~

If you're not walking your dog regularly, he will
probably choose a part of your lawn on which to
do his business, and he'll return to the same spot
again and again. If you notice a spot on the lawn that
grows rapidly and turns dark green and then brown,
your pet is probably the culprit. To fix pet damage,
flush the spot thoroughly with water, repeating in
subsequent days. To allow the grass to return, you'll
have to get into a schedule of walking your dog, or
train him or her to go on another surface off the lawn. Skunks and other hungry mammals can do plenty of
damage to your lawn in their quest for delicious grubs.

So lvi.ng Lawn Problems • 185

 I Dealing with Tunneling Rodents
In most cases, wildlife will avoid your lawn. After all, trap and dead animal when the trap is successful. You
it's an exposed area with little in the way of protective can also bait for moles, although this is not a good idea if
cover. Plus, a healthy lawn offers a dearth of tempting you have pets or children around-even if they are just
dinner items. But when you have grubs or other insects casual visitors to your house. Bait lasts a long time and
in your lawn, they may attract other visitors. The most you don't want any but the target animal consuming it.
common of these are moles, voles, and gophers. Gophers. Gophers are similar to moles in that
Moles. Moles tunnel under the lawn in search they tunnel throughout the yard in search of food,
of grubs. Left alone, they will clear your lawn of although the food they are looking for is plant matter.
white grub infestations, but they'll also leave behind They don't usually feed on grass roots, but the search
unsightly tunnels that make the lawn a challenge to to find a tasty meal will often take them beneath your
mow. Experts are somewhat divided on how big of lawn, causing damage similar to what a busy mole
a problem moles really are. Because they're meat- will leave behind. Gophers travel in larger groups and
eaters, they don't actually consume any of your lawn. can be a persistent problem, and are usually trapped.
However, they do damage the lawn by raising the However, if you can locate active tunnels, sponges
sod, and they can also traumatize grass roots in their soaked with ammonia placed in the tunnels will cause
tunneling. Because they are solitary animals, any mole the gopher to vacate to another area. Just remember to
problem you have is usually limited to a single rodent. remove the sponges once that gopher has left.
You can tamp down the tunnels and water well Voles. Voles differ from moles in that they
to make sure roots reestablish after they've been regularly surface (moles only emerge by accident).
disturbed by the mole. Getting rid of the mole entails Among voles, the pine vole is a burrower and a threat
a two-part strategy. Treating the lawn with beneficial to your grass roots. The non-burrowing meadow vole
nematodes or other applicable product to eradicate is a threat in the cooler months, when it will chew
the grubs is the first part. With the grubs gone, the uncut grass down to the roots as a cold-weather source
mole may leave for other feeding grounds. However, if of nutrition.
he stays around to feast on your earthworms, you may Regardless of which type you're dealing with,
want to trap him. the best method to eradicate voles is trapping. Use
You can live-trap a mole and then transport it to a a large rat trap if you don't mind killing the animal;
wild area such as a state or national park. If that is too live-trap and relocate it if you do. Peanut butter is an
much hassle and you see the mole as just a nuisance effective bait for these animals either way. But tackle
and an undesirable varmint, you can use a kill trap, the problem early, because unlike moles and gophers,
which requires less effort- you simply throwaway the voles are quick to reproduce and colonize .

By the time you see evidence of a

mole, gopher, or vole, a lot of damage
has already been done-quick action is
necessary to stop large-scale devastation
of the lawn. The best way to find active
tunnels for any burrowing rodent is to get
up very early in the morning and watch
the tops of the tunnels for movement.
You can also mark tunnels, and check
later to determine if the marks have
been disturbed.

186 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

I The underground Trio

Moles have a distinctive appearance, with shortened Voles have a mouse-like appearance, with small but
forelimbs equipped with oversized digging claws, no visible obvious ears, prominent tiny eyes, and reddish brown or
ears, and tiny, nearly non-existent eye slits. grey fur.

Sonic Warfare ~

You'll find a host of high-tech products on the market

that claim to repel any burrowing rodent in your
yard. The idea is to stick a probe into the ground or
set speakers down that produce sonic, ultrasonic, or
electromagnetic energy. The energy is in the form of
high-pitched noise or waves. Manufacturers claim
that the energy drives the rodents out of their mind
and out of your yard. Unfortunately, the claims remain
largely unproven, and professional groundskeepers
have not had a great deal of success in using these
devices. Until more quantitative proof is produced
regarding these devices, it generally makes sense
to use time-tested remedies such as traps or
tunnel flooding.

Gophers are distinguishable by their large teeth,

whiskers, and the pouches on either side of the mouth.

Solving Lawn Problems • 187

 I Dealing With Lawn Diseases
I t's a simple fact that lawn diseases don't just pop
up out of thin air. The disease itself can be present,
having arrived from any number of sources, including
on the disease you're dealing with, as well as possible
courses of treatment. As a last resort, if you're having
no success in fighting the disease, you can take a sod
airborne, bird borne, animal borne-it may even have sample to the extension office. Ask them for a referral
arrived on tools or equipment brought from elsewhere to a lab that can analyze the disease.
and used in the yard. But no matter where it came
from, for the disease to take hold, it needs a hospitable ROOT CAUSES OF LAWN DISEASE
breeding environment and a grass that is susceptible • Most lawn diseases are water-related. Some
to the disease. The lawn usually has several problems diseases thrive in a very moist habitat, while
that serve to create the right conditions for growth of others will do best in arid surroundings. Either
the disease. way, few diseases do well in a lawn that is
The key to treating any disease in your lawn is irrigated at just the right time with just the right
first correctly identifying it. This can be a challenge amount of water for the climate and the type
because many lawn diseases look very similar to other of grass.
conditions, such as drought, nitrogen burn, or pet • Improper mowing is a common mistake that
spotting. Take a close look not only at the damaged invites diseases to take hold. The height you mow
grass, but also at the overall pattern of destruction. should reflect the type of grass you're mowing (see
Look at the grass around the damaged area and check page 122 for ideal heights according to different
for any changes in the healthy grass. Inspect individual species). Mowing consistently too low or too
blades to determine if they have any particular marks infrequently, or using a mower with a dull blade,
on them, and check different areas of the lawn to are examples of improper mowing that can lead to
determine if there are different stages of the same lawn disease.
disease at work. • Disease can take hold in the lawn if you have a
If the disease is not fairly obvious, but it is dense, thick layer of thatch. The more thatch
widespread, you may need help in identifying and there is, the more disease spores it can harbor.
treating it. You can talk to a local nursery professional • How, when, and how much you fertilize and use
who may have encountered other customers with the insecticides or pesticides will also affect the lawn's
same problem. Or, if you want to go a little more in resistance to disease. The more chemicals used
depth, contact your local cooperative extension office. on the lawn, the greater the chance that disease-
The experts there may be able to give you information fighting beneficial organisms will be killed.

Need Some Expert Help? ~

You local agricultural extension office is the best source

for assistance in identifying and combating lawn disease.
These local agencies are part of a larger network called the
Cooperative Extension System. This network is partnered
with the National Institute of Food and Agriculture
(NIFA), which is administered by the U.S. Department of
Agriculture. Although the NIFA has some helpful resources,
its primary benefit for homeowners is as a clearinghouse
for local agencies. By logging on to their website you can
easily find contact information for the agricultural extension
closest to you-often a division of a land grant university.
The website address is: www.nifa.usda.gov/Extension/.

188 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

I Treating Lawn Diseases
Quick fixes are hard to come by once a disease has You can overseed with a resistant grass, but
taken hold in your lawn, which is why most experts that's a long-term solution. Changing the conditions
preach prevention. Fungicides are available for in the lawn is the more immediate treatment. This
individual diseases and can be effective in certain includes being fastidious about watering, and getting
cases, but as with most strong chemicals, there rid of thatch. To treat the spores themselves, consider
are repercussions to using fungicides. The most topdressing with compost. Certain specific types of
important is that the chemicals can kill good fungi compost have been linked to disease eradication.
at the same time as bad. Some fungicides are long- These include composted manures, leaf composts,
lasting, lingering in the soil long after they've served and sludge compost such as Milorganite. Ultimately,
their purpose. That's why fungicides are generally it pays to remember that the lawn has its own disease-
considered the option of last resort for treating most fighting mechanisms and the healthier you keep it, the
lawn diseases. More often, the answer lies in changing better eq uipp ed it is to respond to an infection. That's
one of the three legs of lawn disease "triangle" : why you may want to take a wait-and-see approach if
susceptible grass species, conditions that foster the outbreak does not seem severe, making sure that
disease, and the presence of disease spores. your lawn care practices are as painstaking as possible.

Dollar spot is one of many common fungal ailments that afflict lawns. As with most lawn diseases, a change in how you water
and care for the lawn is usually the best course of action to eradicate the disease naturally.

Survival of the Fittest ~

The type of grass in your lawn impacts how resistant disease resistance part of your purchase decision if you're
the lawn will be to diseases. Some species are naturally buying sod or seed for a new lawn, or for overseeding. The
disease resistant to certain conditions. But grass seed professionals at local nurseries, garden centers, and your
companies are constantly developing new varieties that local cooperative extension office will be able to instruct
are more tolerant to adverse circumstances such as you on diseases that are common in your area, and the
drought, and are resistant to specific diseases. Consider latest resistant grass varieties available.

Solving Lawn Problems • 189

 I Lawn Disease Identification & Treatment
If you're going to fight a lawn disease, you need to higher than normal, and cut back on fertilization.
know which one you're fighting. Identification is key Aerate as necessary and alleviate pockets of deep
and the photos shown here will give you a better idea shade on the lawn if you can. If your lawn has been
of exactly what each disease looks like. The listings affected by the fungus before, or if you know that
here represent the most common lawn diseases, it is common in your area, you can treat with a
along with treatments to eradicate them, repair their preventative fungicide in early spring (although this
damage, and prevent them from recurring. usually isn't necessary).

BROWN PATCH FAIRY RINGS

This soil-borne fungus is a common problem in Fairy rings are one of the most distinctive lawn
regions where high humidity combines with warm diseases, characterized by rings of lush lawn growth,
temperatures. Grasses most often affected by the often accompanied by growth of mushrooms along
disease include Kentucky bluegrass, centipede grass, the ring (and sometimes featuring just mushrooms in
Bermuda grass, and St. Augustine. The disease is the ring formation without the underlying excessive
usually most active in late spring and early fall for lawn growth). Fairy rings sometimes include dieback
warm-season grasses, and early spring for cool-season in the ring formation if the fungus is so prolific as to
types. The fungus attacks while the grass is actively block water absorption by the grass. But more often,
growing. Onset is encouraged by overfertilization the grass survives. The fungus usually returns the
and overwatering. The first signs of brown patch are next year, often creating a larger ring. It's caused by
small circles of wet-looking grass that quickly turn decaying organic matter that contained the fungus to
brown. The damaged patch enlarges quickly, but start with, usually added as a soil amendment when
eventually the infected area begins to return to health, the lawn was first planted.
creating rings of brown that are lined on the outside Treatment: Because the effects are largely to the
by yellowing grass, sometimes called a "smoke ring." appearance and not the health of the lawn, fairy rings
Infected areas can range from the size of a dinner are usually treated as a cosmetic problem. Remove
plate to many feet in diameter. You may, in certain the mushrooms (which are toxic, so you should keep
instances, notice lesions on the grass leaves. The children away from them). Water and fertilize as
lesions will be brown, going black at the edges. usual. Eradication of the fungus entails digging out the
Treatment: Lawns can recover from brown infected area and removing soil and sod as deep as 10
patch in time, especially when measures are taken to inches-which is why most homeowners simply cover
correct the conditions that allow the fungus to thrive up the disease's affects. There are powerful fungicides
in the first place. Water only in the morning and only for use on the fungi that cause fairy rings, but these
when the lawn absolutely needs it. Mow the lawn are not considered safe for home lawn use.

A lawn with brown patch Fairy rings

190 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

 There are actually two types: pink and gray. Both
appear as patches of dead, brown grass surrounded
on the margins by a gray or pinkish fuzzy growth.
Gray snow mold is the less damaging of the two,
affecting only the blades of the grass. Pink snow mold
infects the blades and crown, and can do serious
damage to the lawn.
Treatment: The fungicides effective on
snow molds are not recommended for home use.
Generally, the treatment consists of changing the
conditions that fuel the fungus. These changes
pythium blight
include cutting the lawn short for winterization,
forgoing nitrogen-rich fertilizer in the fall,
and improving drainage through dethatching
PYTHIUM BLIGHT and aeration.
The first signs of pythium blight, or grease spot as it
is sometimes called, are small dark areas that may LEAF SPOT
look slimy or greasy. The affected area can range from Leaf spot is also called "melting out," which actually
around 1 inch to over a foot in diameter. The disease describes the second, more destructive effect of the
spreads rapidly, creating signature reddish brown and disease. The first signs are spot-like lesions on the
wilted grass sections that may streak as the disease grass leaves. The lesions resemble burns, with brown
follows the lines of drainage. Infected grass will centers and darkened margins. These symptoms
shrivel and turn brown. The appearance may include a appear in early spring or fall, and cause no serious
cotton web-like growth, especially in the evening and damage to the grass. However, the second phase of
early morning. the disease- melting out- involves the fungus moving
Treatment: Fight the disease with fungicide into the crown and roots of affected grass plants,
as soon as you notice an outbreak. Prevention is killing them. This happens in the hottest weather of
key, involving aerating to improve drainage and, the summer.
specifically, correcting any alkalinity imbalance with Treatment: Apply a contact fungicide at the first
an application of lime, as necessary. signs of leaf spot, and expect to reapply until the signs
disappear. Usually, three or four applications spaced
SNOW MOLD a week apart are necessary. Prevention focuses on
As the name implies, this fungus only occurs avoiding overfertilization, and watering deeply once or
in colder areas of the country with freezing twice per week, in the early morning, to prevent water
temperatures and snow. The fungus grows under from sitting on the grass leaves. Keep in mind when
cover of the snow, in wet conditions, and is more overseeding that there are many new varieties of leaf
prone to shady areas in which the snow melts late. spot-resistant grasses.

Snow mold Leaf spot

So lvi.ng Lawn Problems • 191

 DOLLAR SPOT Treatment: Mildew is regularly treated with a
Dollar spot is one of the lawn diseases that mimic the broad-spectrum systemic fungicide at the first signs
look of many other conditions. It's named after the of outbreak, with a repeat application around a week
silver-dollar size dead spots the fungus creates in the later. To prevent recurrence, prune shrubs and trees to
lawn. However, the spots are often larger than that, allow more sunlight exposure over shaded areas of the
and can develop into significant areas of dead grass. lawn, and water only moderately in affected areas.
The disease is most common during spring and fall,
when the weather is the mild 60 to 80°F range that
the fungus thrives in. In some regions it will persist
through summer. The fungus is spread throughout
the lawn by contact with shoes, sprinklers, hoses, and
lawn-care equipment.
Treatment: If the infection is widespread, use
contact fungicide labeled for dollar spot at the first
sign of outbreak, and repeat the application a week to
10 days after the first treatment. To prevent dollar spot
from returning, you should water only in the morning
and ensure that the lawn is receiving the proper
nutrients. Overseed the lawn with resistant varieties.
Ultimately, however, your lawn will recover on it's own
powdery mildew
from an attack of dollar spot, although it may take
months for the lawn to completely regenerate.
RUST
This aptly named fungus coats grass blades with
orange and reddish brown spores that can be rubbed
off. It most commonly afflicts Kentucky bluegrass and
perennial ryegrass, and strikes in late summer and
early fall. Outbreaks occur most often in lawns already
stressed by other conditions or diseases. The fungus
grows best in mildly warm, moist conditions.
Treatment: In most cases, rust will cause only
minimal cosmetic damage, with no significant grass
die-off. If you detect the disease, continue to mow
regularly, bagging and disposing of the clippings. In
severe cases, treat the lawn with a systemic fungicide,
repeating the application in a week as necessary.

Dollar spot

POWDERY MILDEW
This fungus exhibits a distinctive coating on the top
growth of the lawn, resembling a dusting of powdered
sugar or flour. The mildew coating ranges from white
to gray, and only in severe cases will it actually kill
the grass. The fungus prefers shaded sections of the
lawn in regions with cool nights and high humidity.
It is most common in lawns of Kentucky bluegrass,
although other grasses may be affected as well. Rust

192 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

 LEAF SMUT
There are two types of leaf smuts that affect lawns:
stripe smut and flag smut. When infected with either
fungus, grass will turn pale yellow, followed by long
gray-black streaks on the grass blades. Smuts thrive
in the cool weather of early spring or fall. The grass
blades will wither and die, and the fungus eventually
moves into the crown and other tissues in the plant.
Plants often die as the summer warms.
Treatment: Leaf smuts, like many fungi, flourish
in deep, dense thatch. They also grow best in acidic
soil with an abundance of nitrogen. That's why
dethatching and fertilizing lightly are the first steps in
limiting the effects of leaf smuts. Severe cases can be
treated with systemic fungicides, but the wisest course
Red thread of action is to simply reseed damaged areas with one
of the many disease-resistant cultivars.

RED THREAD FUSARIUM BLIGHT

The namesake pink and red strands of this fungus Sometimes called summer patch, this fungus grows
attach to leaves and sheaths of the grass plant, causing most actively in hot weather above 85 °F and in
irregular die-off and a ragged lawn appearance. From drought-stressed lawns. It appears as small circles of
a distance, the disease in full bloom may give the lawn graying or brown dead or dying grass. The best way to
a reddish hue. The fungus is active in cool, moist tell fusarium blight from other conditions with similar
weather in early spring and fall. In the vast majority of symptoms is to examine the crowns of dead plants-
cases, the disease causes no serious long-term damage they often feature a reddish rot.
to the lawn. Treatment: Maintaining proper mowing height
Treatment: Red thread may be a sign of is crucial in prevention, as is keeping the lawn
potassium deficiency that should be corrected with consistently moist through hot and arid periods.
organic or synthetic fertilizer, after being confirmed There are also a number of blight-resistant cultivars
with a soil test. Water sparingly, and only in the that should be used to overseed lawns that have
morning. In very extreme cases, apply a contact proven susceptible to attack. As a last resort, apply an
fungicide labeled for use on red thread. appropriate contact fungicide.

Leaf smut Fusarium blight

So lvi.ng Lawn Problems • 193

 I Improving Site Conditions
I na perfect world, your lawn would sit atop a deep
layer of loam and bask in a wealth of sunshine and
ideal temperatures. The lawn would slope gently, almost
the lawn and where, why, and how it collects.
Ensuring proper drainage can involve solutions from
the simple, such as slowly improving the soil by top-
imperceptibly, creating efficient, non-eroding drainage dressing, to the complex, such as installing a French
for whatever excess water the lawn received. In the real drain. The solution that you choose will be guided by
world, there are very few perfect places for lawns. how serious and extensive your drainage issues are.
The fact is, if your yard is fairly large-and even Drainage can involve grading the soil and
if it isn't-chances are that the lawn will have one landscape, but grading may also be required for
or more trouble spots or challenging areas where different features in the lawn. For instance, if you are
it's hard to keep the grass healthy. Some site-related adding a child's play structure or putting green, you
problems are easily fixed, while others call for more may need to grade that particular area differently then
creative solutions. the rest of the lawn.
One of the most common inhibitors to thick, Lastly, your site location and particular features
lush turf is shade. Shade is a reality for many mature may lead you to make aesthetic improvements. For
landscapes where shrubs have grown tall and the instance, installing edging between the lawn border
canopies of long-established trees arch over whole and the line of a flower or shrub bed will provide a
areas of the lawn. The trick is in opening up those crisp look to the lawn, but it also may be necessary
screens as much as possible, and in ensuring watering to prevent aggressive species such as ivies or other
and mowing practices don't make the situation worse. ground covers from invading your lawn.
Drainage is another key issue for any lawn. The The point is, by proactively responding to the
soil composition will control drainage to a certain challenges posed by your site, you can head off a lot
degree, but the topography of your lawn will also of problems before they begin. It's one more way to
influence how quickly water makes its way through ensure a healthy, trouble-free lawn.

A severe slope can be an unusable and hard-to-maintain area of a lawn. A few simple terraces create an attractive, low-
maintenance yard feature instead.

194 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

Deep shade such as this can lead to a host of lawn problems, from poor grass growth to a proliferation of lawn diseases. The
solution is to prune trees judiciously, to thin out sun-blocking canopies.

Certain types of gardens, such as native perennial beds, contain fairly aggressive plants that will covet your turf space and
eventually make a play for it. You can keep most of them at bay with simple lawn edging.

So lvi.ng Lawn Problems • 195

 I Dealing With Shaded Areas
Shade is a hard thing to plan for. Trees that were
relatively young when your lawn was planted often Tools & Materials ~
grow to become incredible sun blockers. Or you
may have made your lawn-care plan in the winter, Pole chainsaw Safety glasses
when the trees surrounding your yard were bare Alligator loppers Gloves
of leaves, not realizing that in season they were Hard hat Protective shoes
going to create dense dark areas inhospitable to
grass growth.
Areas of deep or persistent shade call for a change
in lawn-care tactics. The challenge is changing
the way you care for one small area of lawn, while
maintaining the proper maintenance for the rest of
the yard. That can be a bit of bother, but if you're
going to keep shaded grass healthy, you need to
make adjustments.
The first is in how you feed shaded parts of the
lawn. You may want to skip any mid-season feedings
in the shady areas, because those feedings will divert
resources of already challenged grass from roots
to top growth. Shaded top growth is already full of
moisture, so adding denser leaves means attracting
insects and disease that prefer moist environments.
It's best for shaded areas of grass to be fertilized in
spring and fall when deciduous trees are leafless.
When winterizing a shady area, use a potassium-
heavy fertilizer to fortify the grass against the stress of
its location.
Watering is also important. Shaded areas need
less water than other areas of the lawn, and allowing
consistently moist conditions in a shady part of the
lawn is simply asking for insect and disease problems.
Check that shaded portions are regularly drying out
before watering.
Overseed the problem area with shade-
tolerant species and varieties. This is a simple way
to introduce a more appropriate strain of grass
over time.
You can also approach the problem from
the other side of the equation, by increasing the
sunlight in the area. This usually entails pruning
back shrubs and trees that are keeping the lawn in
shadow. In some cases, where a significant portion
of the lawn has suffered under the shade of a
large tree, you may want remove the tree if your
goal is to have a healthy and vibrant lawn. You'll
find instructions for doing just that in the pages
that follow. A pole chainsaw. like the one shown here, is ideal for
pruning back smaller tree branches that clutter the canopy and
create denser shade.

196 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN

 How to Prune a Shade Tree

Start by undercutting from beneath the limb with your bow Finish the cut from above. This keeps the bark from tearing
saw or chain saw. when the limb breaks loose.

Trim the stub from the limb so it's flush with the branch An electric alligator lopper makes quick work of fallen tree
collar, but do not cut the collar, which is responsible for healing branches. Remove branches quickly; if they're allowed to sit
the wound. on the lawn too long they can kill the grass underneath and
spread diseases.

Solving Lawn Problems • 197

 I Removing a Shade Tree
Sometimes, for the health of the lawn, you may
choose to remove a tree that has simply grown too
large and blocks too much light. But take your time
and follow all safety precautions; felling a tree is not a
small job. If you don't feel sure of your abilities, hire
a professional arborist or tree trimming company to
remove the tree. You should definitely seek the help
of a professional if the tree is close to the house, or
is diseased.
The first step in removing a shade tree is
determining where you want it to fall. For safety's
sake, you'll also want to decide on two "retreat"
paths that will let you avoid the tree if it falls in the
wrong direction.
Ensure that tree falls where you want it to by
making a series of cuts in the trunk. The first is called
a "notch" and is made by cutting out a triangle-shaped
section on the side of the tree facing the path you
want it to fall along. A felling cut is then made on the
opposite side, forming a wide hinge that guides the
tree's fall.
Always follow the manufacturer's safety
instructions when operating a chain saw. These are
extremely dangerous pieces of power equipment and
every year, thousands of people are injured using
chainsaws. The most common injury is caused by
kickback, a sudden movement in which the saw
unexpectedly jumps up and back. Kickback is caused
by the nose of the guide bar making contact with the
tree. Prevent it by avoiding contact with the nose of
the guide bar, and using both hands on the handles
while making a cut.

Tools & Materials ~

Chainsaw Gloves
Hard hat Wedge
Safety glasses Hand maul
Ear protection

198 • THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO A BETTER LAWN