TT Contr A01 Textile Certification Rules
TT Contr A01 Textile Certification Rules
TT Contr A01 Textile Certification Rules
A01
Version 1.0; 2023DEC
CHAPTER 13
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This Textile Certification Rules (TCR) contains regulation regarding the policy of Control Union (CU)
on inspection and certification for textile programs. It mentions what your rights and obligations are,
as well as those of CU. This document is complementary to the Certification General Rules (CGR)
chapter 1 applicable to any certification program of CU Services.
1. APPLICABILITY
The rules as stated in this TCR are applicable for the following programs:
- Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS),
- TE Standards (CCS, GRS, RCS, OCS, RDS, RAF, RWS)
- All interpretations as made by CU and by both Global Standard gGmbH of the Global
Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) on the Global Organic Textile Standard and Textile
Exchange, on their Standards (CCS, GRS, RCS, OCS, RDS, RAF, RWS) shall be used and
followed by the client in all situations in which the article that interpretation regards, is
applicable. The latest edition of the official interpretation provided are available at:
GOTS https://global-standard.org/
2. DEFINITIONS
No additional elements
3. CONTRACTING
a) CU will ensure that during the GOTS/TE standard contracting process your company does not
appear on the banned company list.
b) GOTS:
• A risk assessment (RA), for all the units that will be part of the project, will be developed
as part of the GOTS certification contracting process by CU. All production units (main,
facilities and non-certified subcontracted units) and processes will be considered as high
risk, due to strict GOTS requirements, and must undergo an annual on-site audit with the
exception of traders without storage and engagement in re-packing or re-labelling, those
can be audited remotely on an annual basis. No exemptions for “small-scale” units will
be considered. CU will consider any additional relevant criteria it is aware of when
conducting the risk assessment, for example as result of the due diligence perform during
the application review.
• The assigned risk is communicated to your company by means of the Offer letter. This risk
assessment is not applicable for Independently certified subcontractors.
• If your company holds an OCS scope certificate with another CB, CU cannot prepare an
offer letter unless the standard scope certificate mentioned is in the process of being
transferred to CU.
• All gins shall be independently certified to the Standard. As an exception a gin may be
subcontracted only if they have an exclusive operational contract with a single certified
entity. Contract shall mention that certified entity will take complete responsibility of all
the GOTS related activities in subcontracted gin.
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c) TE:
• If your company has the below standards scope certificates currently with another CB, CU
cannot prepare an offer letter (OL) unless the standard scope certificate mentioned is in
the process of being transferred to CU.
Standard to
be certified Action
by CU
No OL can be issued to an organization which holds a GOTS scope certificate with
OCS another CB, unless GOTS scope certificate is in the process of being transferred to
CU.
No OL can be issued to an organization which holds a RCS scope certificate with
GRS another CB, unless RCS scope certificate is in the process of being transferred to
CU.
No OL can be issued to an organization which holds a GRS scope certificate with
RCS another CB, unless GRS scope certificate is in the process of being transferred to
CU.
• A risk assessment shall be made as part of the contracting process for all Textile Exchange
Standards. A risk designation is assigned, according to the requirements of the last version
of ACP ASR-101 from TE, and is communicated to your company by means of the Offer
letter.
• In case of disagreement about the assigned risk level, your company have the right to file
a complaint with Textile Exchange as per ASR-110 Complaints and Feedback Policy.
d) Provide to the Certification Body and the Accreditation Body the right of access to all units of the
inspected facilities, access to formulations and manufacturing premises including to units where
no GOTS products are processed, stored, or administered, if applicable, and to all relevant
documentation and records, including financial records.
4. PLANNING
• If you do not have certified raw materials, a comparable audit can be carried out, which will be
with conventional raw materials, but the requirements of the standard will be evaluated.
• For GOTS, a full physical audit of the production/processing units shall be made once a year,
based on a risk assessment.
• For TE standards, according to the risk level, the audit could be on-site, remote or hybrid and
will be performed on an annual basis.
• No additional elements, for other requirements follow P12.CONTR.A02 Certification General
Rules: 8.
5. AUDIT EXECUTION
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5.2 Subcontractors
A legal entity hired by the organization to perform services (e.g., storage, processing) on a claimed
material. Subcontractors take physical possession but not legal ownership of claimed materials and are
independent of the organization which outsources the material. Also is who´s not certified
independently from the contracting organization and is instead audited as part of the contracting
organization’s audit.
Subcontractor agreement: The client shall conclude subcontractor agreements with all individual
subcontractors within the project. The subcontractor agreement shall contain at least the information
as mentioned in Annex I of this document. The subcontractor agreement shall be written in the local
language or in any case in a language understandable by the processor.
5.3.1. Administration
- Records relevant to the audit shall be kept for at least five years.
- On request of the auditor, the client shall prove the gene technology free origin of all products
and raw materials for which gene technology is prohibited by means of an accredited laboratory
analysis as per applicable regulations. That is, GOTS and OCS forbid the presence of GMO on the
fibers, so the presence of GMO must be tested by ISO IWA 32:2019, in an accredited laboratory
(ISO 17025) for this purpose.
- For each lot of products, for which a Transaction Certificate is issued, the client shall have a
representative and sealed sample kept present for one year or until next annual audit.
- For wet processes, clients shall have invoices, delivery notes as well as copies of valid Letters of
Approval at hand listing all preparations they are using in processing and manufacturing GOTS
Goods as verification proof that all colorants and textile auxiliaries used for GOTS Goods are
approved.
- Wet processing units shall keep full records of chemical, energy, and water consumption as well
as wastewater treatment data, including the disposal of sludge. Certified Entities shall
continuously measure and monitor wastewater temperature, wastewater pH, sediment
quantities, and waste toxicity. There shall be provisions to recycle and/or dispose of solid waste.
On-site waste burning or uncontrolled waste landfilling shall not be undertaken.
- Clients shall keep records of test analysis reports, in accordance with risk assessments, to attend
compliance with GOTS requirements as well as a Quality Management System implemented.
This system shall have a complaint management system for product quality, an internal audit
system, documentation of corrective actions, monitoring and management of incidences, risk
assessment for contamination, periodic review of QMS by the management.
- The client shall keep records of the following information on certified incoming goods:
• Copies of transport documents and/or other delivery documents; Invoices.
• A copy of valid transaction certificates stating that the products have been
produced according to the applicable organic regulation.
• For not CU certified incoming products: A copy of the valid accreditation certificate
that is issued to the certification body, which certified the product in question.
- The client shall keep records of the following information on outgoing certified products:
• Copies from transport documents and/or other delivery documents.
• Copies of the CU transaction certificates, and invoices.
• The invoices and transport documents must contain a reference to the organic
production method, clearly related to the certified products, and CU followed by
the client number.
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- The client shall have on all labels, invoices, packing lists and transport documents a traceable
identification code which enables to identify production date/year and lot number to trace
down the product at least to the last producer and preferably to the individual farmer or farmer
group.
- The client shall have all operational procedures and practices supported by effective
documented control systems and records that enable to trace:
a. The origin, nature and quantities of organic and additional (raw) materials,
Accessories as well as Inputs which have been received by the unit
b. The flow of goods within the unit (processing/manufacturing steps performed,
recipes used and stock quantities)
c. Nature, quantities and consignees of GOTS Goods which have left the unit
d. Fibre composition of manufactured products
e. Any other information that may be required for proper inspection of the operation.
- CU shall accept certificates and letters of approval issued in accordance with the GOTS by other
GOTS approved Certification Bodies in order to conclude final certification. Further the CU shall
accept certificates as well as residue analysis reports issued by other certification bodies and
laboratories in accordance with the provisions of the GOTS (items 2.1, 4.2).
a) The Certified Entity shall engage into a responsible business conduct. GOTS Chemical Input
Criteria, GOTS Environmental Criteria, GOTS Human Rights and Social Criteria, and GOTS
Governance Criteria shall be implemented through the due diligence process. This process shall
be commensurate with the risk and appropriate to a specific Certified Entity’s circumstances
and context.
b) The Certified Entity shall assign oversight and responsibility for due diligence to relevant senior
management and assign board-level responsibilities for implementing the Policy on
Responsible Business Conduct. The Certified Entity shall regularly provide the responsible
person(s) with training on all relevant topics including those related to human and labor rights.
c) The Certified Entity shall allocate adequate support and resources to conduct due diligence
process and implement the Policy on Responsible Business Conduct. The Certified Entity shall
continuously implement due diligence so that it can show progressive improvement over time.
d) The Certified Entity shall continuously implement due diligence so that it can show progressive
improvement over time.
e) The Certified Entity shall strengthen its management systems to conduct due diligence in
Certified Entity’s own operation and in its supply chain.
f) Certified Entities shall assure compliance with the applicable national and local legal
environmental requirements applicable to their processing/manufacturing stages (including
those referring to emissions to air, wastewater discharge, as well as disposal of waste and
sludge).
g) Certified Entities shall have a written environmental and chemical management policy that is
appropriate to the nature of their business. In addition, necessary procedures shall be in place
to allow monitoring and improving relevant environmental management performances in their
Facilities.
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a) During inspection, clients shall provide proof of using dyes and processing aids permitted by GOTS
and GRS. This may be done by for GOTS processing aids; Providing valid GOTS approved chemical
input lists by approved suppliers. Also, companies must have letters of approval updated to
auditor verify them.
b) For GRS: providing proof of compliance to GRS chemical requirements.
c) Also, complete traceability of use of respective processing aids.
a) For GOTS, all incoming goods used to include natural fiber processing by the client in the certified
production process, must be certified according to GOTS, by a GOTS recognized certification
company.
b) For OCS, all incoming goods used by the client in the certified production process must comply
with the last version of ASR-106 – Accepted Equivalent Standards.
c) For GOTS and OCS, organic raw material fiber shall be certified as organic according to one of the
following certification schemes:
• Regulation (EEC) No. 834/2007 and 889/2008
• National Organic Program of the United States Department of Agriculture
• National or private standards accepted by IFOAM (NPOP, India)
d) The raw material fiber shall be certified by a certification agency that is accredited according to
ISO 17065 (for Regulation (EEC) No. 834/2007 and 889/2008), IFOAM (for IFOAM certified raw
material) or recognized by the USDA (for NOP).
e) No fibers shall be used which originate from production projects with regard to which there is
evidence of a persistent pattern of gross violations of the ILO core labor norms (as far as these are
relevant for agriculture) and/or of animal welfare principles (i.e. Mulesing) or irrefutable evidence
of a persistent pattern of land grabbing methods.
f) The use of fibers, which originate from production projects located in high human rights risks
areas, may require additional mitigation measures (for example, on-site social audits) to ensure
that these production projects comply with GOTS Human Rights and Social Criteria.
Note: Products will only be accepted if further processing under CU certification takes place.
a) For RCS, GRS and CCS: The incoming materials to be used for standard production and suppliers
shall be declared by declaration form and obtained approval by Control Union.
a) The company shall perform wastewater analysis on a quarterly basis, according with the
requirement of each standard.
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5.3.7 Sampling
a) For certification programs Organic Content Standard (OCS), Content Claim Standard (CCS) and
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) the following additional rule applies:
- Companies that receive certified organic lint cotton or raw cotton, which was not
certified by CU, shall take a representative sample of each transport of organic (raw or
ginned) cotton as per section 4 of ISO 1130:1975 Textile fibres.
- The samples shall be sent to a laboratory, which is accredited for GM cotton analyses
as per the ISO IWA 32:2019.
-
Standard Process
Ginning Other than Ginning
GOTS Auditor shall collect three equal samples The auditor can choose to draw samples
from the same lot, seal and identify each of any other product based on risk of
sample with a stamp with lot number, contamination.
quantity (in kg), composition, TC number.
One sample stays with the ginner and the
other two stays with CU.
OCS - TE - Samples of seed cotton shall be collected CU may collect a sample and arrange for
for GMO testing as follows: a GMO test on cotton at any site which
handles cotton which has not been
a) Protocols A4 and A5, of the Policy for chemically processed or mixed with non-
GMO Screening of Organic Cotton OCS cotton. This should be done if CU
OCS-103 from TE, shall be folowed. believes that there is a substantial risk of
b) One sample shall be collected per volume substitution of non-chemically
incoming transaction certificate or one processed organic cotton at a site
sample per outgoing transaction following the gin.
certificate.
c) CU shall collect at least one sample Protocols A4 and A5, of the Policy for
per year at each gin for GMO testing. GMO Screening of Organic Cotton OCS-
This sample shall be collected on-site 103 from TE, shall be folowed.
during the applicable cotton harvest
and processing season (e.g. November
through May in India), and may be
collected during the audit.
d) Remaining samples should be
collected by the certification body or
another third-party, but may be
collected by the gin or by the certified
organization for subcontracted gins.
GOTS https://global-standard.org/the-standard/gots-key-features/organic-
fibres/global-iso-iwa-32-2019-proficiency-test-initiative
Textile Exchange https://textileexchange.org/knowledge-center/documents/global-iso-iwa-
322019-proficiency-test-initiative/
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b) The company will perform quality and residual analyses on its products according to the risk
analysis (2.1, 4.2 - GOTS standard), these analyses must be performed in accredited laboratories
according to ISO 17025. The analysis reports shall be requested and reviewed by the auditor.
c) Clients are expected to undertake testing, in accordance with a risk assessment, in order to assure
compliance with GOTS Standard, as well as GOTS Implementation Manual, and in specific with the
criteria of Section 5.2.6 (Technical Quality Parameters) as well as 5.2.7 and 5.2.8 (Limit Values for
Residues in GOTS Goods, additional materials and accessories). All GOTS Goods, the components
of these products and the inputs used are to be included in this risk assessment and therefore
potentially subject to testing. The testing frequency, the type and number of samples are to be
established according to this risk assessment.
• The results of these analyses shall be kept available for the CU auditor.
• Not taking samples or not keeping them available to Control Union Services
will affect our certification decision.
• Certified client shall keep representative sample from products of each transaction
certificate that has been sold under any of GOTS and TE standard.
• The sample shall be properly packed, sealed, labelled, and be kept for 02 years.
• This sample may subject to analysis as required by Control Union.
• Alternatively, representative sample from input materials can be kept when the
production process does not have chemical use or does not change material
composition.
d) Samples for residue testing shall also be taken by the auditor during the required on-site audit,
either as back-up to the audit process or in case of suspicion of contamination or non-compliance.
Additional samples of goods may be taken from the supply chain at any time without advance
notice.
a) If during the audit the auditor detects non-compliance with the audited standard or legal
compliance, those will be identified as critical, major, or minor NCs, depending on the textile
program. See NC classification in the table below. Each one will have a different deadline for
closure.
b) During the closing meeting, auditor will present the audit results. In case there are NCs, client will
receive the NC report, via e-mail, that has to be signed by both parties (client and auditor). Auditor
will explain each NC and the deadline given to take proper actions for an effective NC closure. NC
report will also be available by the CU information system.
c) Client can follow Certification General Rules: 9.11 for developing corrections and corrective actions.
d) NCs must be closed through the CU information system (ICU). It is necessary to complete the boxes
of root cause, correction, and corrective action, and upload the evidence(s).
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Classification of Non-conformities:
Audit report can be downloaded from ICU once it has been approved and certification decision taken.
6. CERTIFICATION
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c) Scope certificates shall be valid for a maximum of one year from the date of issue. The date
(month and day) one day after the expiry of the first scope certificate shall be identified as the
anniversary date, and future scope certificates shall expire one day before the anniversary
date.
d) The certification decision shall be completed within 60 days of the audit. If there are NCs
raised during the audit, all NCs shall be closed within the deadline.
e) Scope certificate validity only be extended with approval from Textile Exchange for reasons
which are outside of the certification body’s and the organization’s control (e.g. force
majeure).
In case you wish to certify with another certification body, CU will immediately withdraw your current
scope certificate. The withdrawal will have a date prior to the issuance of the scope certificate with the
new certification body.
b) Regarding to Textile Exchange Standards certification:
1- The reasons for withdrawal are in the following table:
REASON
Critical non-conformity – following identification of a critical nonconformity, including
intentional fraud.
Non-conformity – following identification of a major or minor nonconformity which was
not resolved within the allowable timelines.
If a scope certificate is suspended for 180 days or until its expiry date – whichever is sooner
– the scope certificate shall be withdrawn.
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CU will respond to all tips and complaints about fraudulent products or services following
its complaints process (P08). If fraud or other misrepresentation is found to exist, CU will
take appropriate action by suspending or withdrawn your certificate.
Recertification completed – including early recertification with the same certification body,
adding the site(s) to another scope certificate, and transfer of certification bodies prior to
scope certificate expiry.
Withdrawal of the certification body’s accreditation for the applicable scope (voluntary or
involuntary).
Non-payment or other issues with certification body procedures or contracts which do not
relate to standards conformity.
Voluntary – upon request from the certified organization.
Other – for any reason not on this list.
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e) In the event of a certified gin voluntarily choosing to move to another CB after their scope
certificate validity date expires, CU and the chosen CB shall cooperate and proactively verify details
about closing stock before recertification takes place. Gins shall be permitted to migrate to another
CB only after three years of continuous certification.
d) Client shall request the application for TCs by using client portal, and complete correctly all the
fields required to apply for TC approval.
e) The complete TC application shall be made to CU within validity period of scope certificate and
within maximum 06 months from date of last shipment or delivery in particular TC application.
f) Documents: The following documents are required to be uploaded in Control Union portal (CU
Information System), to process an application of any of above listed types of TC’s:
i. A copy of invoice(s)
ii. A copy of BL or AWB or FCR or any other transport document(s). (The certifier can
decide which document is required)
iii. The supplier’s transaction certificate for inward materials (shall be addressed to one
of licensee’s units)
iv. Any other documents as requested by the certifier (GMO laboratory analysis, quantity
control sheet/ mass balance sheet, composition test report, etc.)
v. Photographical evidence of on product label along with the product, and bulk packing
label.
a) Certified clients can use on-and-off product statements for GOTS and/or TE on certified products.
b) The requirements for product labelling of GOTS and TE products is available in:
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c) Client is responsible for all on- and off-product statements for certified products that are
transported between units within the same project, contain at least the following information:
• The name of the product.
• The name “CU”, followed by the client number.
• A reference to the applicable standard.
d) The use of logos standard, on- and off-product, is subject to approval by CU, prior to its use. Clients
must apply for logo approval through CU Information System. Labelling of GOTS Goods sold in retail
is mandatory.
e) The client is obliged to inform CU Services S.A.C immediately and truthfully on any changes
concerning the identification data of the Certificate Holder and certification status of suppliers,
subcontractors, production sites and certified customers.
f) In case of misuse CU will request the client to discontinue the use of certificates and logos that it
authorizes certified entities to use.
g) In case the client ignores the above-mentioned indications, the following CONTR.A02 GENERAL
CERTIFICATION RULES Annex 1: Conditions for the use of the CU certification logo, item d)
Sanctions shall apply.
a) CU Services S.A.C retains the possibility to withdraw the use/approval of GOTS Signs and TE
Standard’s Logos with immediate effect (suspension) if there are reasons to believe that any of
the terms of these Registrations and standard requirements (GOTS and TE Standards), are not
being adhered to.
b) The Certificate Holder makes known to CU Services S.A.C without delay any unauthorized use of
the GOTS Signs/ TE Standard’s Logos that it gains knowledge about, including but not limited to
any unauthorized use of the GOTS Signs/ TE Standard’s Logos by its direct and/or indirect
customers and buyers. Failing to do this may have consequences for the certification status of the
Certificate Holder.
c) Either party may terminate the GOTS Logo/ TE Standard’s Logos use Registration with three
months prior notice in writing.
d) The Global Standard gGmbH and/or CU Services S.A.C can pursue all legal remedies for any
unauthorized or misleading use of the GOTS Signs on product declarations, in advertisements,
catalogues or other contexts, including actions such as corrective and/or legal action and/or
publication of the transgression so as to safeguard credibility of the GOTS identification.
e) Should a Certificate Holder initiate or threaten to initiate cancellation action or otherwise attack
the validity of the GOTS signs, Global Standard gGmbH may terminate the rights of the Certified
Entity to use GOTS Signs without notice.
f) If Textile Exchange becomes aware of an improper or unlicensed use of its intellectual property,
Textile Exchange will attempt to engage with the claim maker and will offer a 30-day window
from the date of first notice to correct or remove the claim.
g) If the misuse is not remedied within 30 days and/or upon a second instance of misuse, Textile
Exchange may take applicable actions as per any in-force licensing agreement and may pursue
further applicable action up to and including legal proceedings and/or action with the certification
body, which may result in withdrawal of certification.
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h) This Registration enters into force when it has been signed by the legal representative of the
Certificate Holder and the logo user has paid the GOTS Signs fees based on an invoice issued by
CU Services S.A.C.
9. PUBLICATIONS
a) Once a certification decision is made, CU will update the information in the GOTS portal. For
clients certified to TE standards, the information will be sent to TE and then TE will update their
website.
In addition, certified operators can be found in CU Services web page: peru.controlunion.com
2. I will allow CU Inspectors access to all premises and information required for inspection purposes
and I will fully cooperate with them.
3. In case of non-compliance with the above-mentioned standards I will inform the CU client and I
will not sell the products as organic or under conversion to organic. Also, I will inform in writing the
buyers of the products in order to ensure that the indications referring to the organic production
method are removed from the product in question.
Date and signature of
processor
Date and signature of
client
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