History of Noodles and Pasta-Lierheimer - Nola J1
History of Noodles and Pasta-Lierheimer - Nola J1
History of Noodles and Pasta-Lierheimer - Nola J1
Nola Lierheimer
Grant High School
March 28, 2022
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Abstract
There are many foods historians consider to be an important part of history but many
have overlooked a food with rich culinary, cultural, and historical impact: the noodle. Much of
the history of this food is complex and different throughout the diverse societies it is a part of.
This paper focuses on the unique, influential cultures and traditions of Italy and China, through
the lens of noodles and pasta. Additionally, it expands to examine surrounding regions and the
culmination of ideas that have led to distinct noodle cultures around the world. From prehistoric
times to the present day, this food has had a lasting legacy and will continue to be a staple food
for millions of people worldwide.
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Introduction
Searching “universal foods” on the internet brings up what you would expect to find.
Potatoes, rice, beans, corn, the list goes on and on. But one food that is never mentioned, but
definitely should be, are noodles. Think about it. Noodles (and pasta) are eaten everywhere.
There are many different cultures and places around the world that have some type of noodle or
pasta dish. The classic Italian-American dish of spaghetti and meatballs, the popular street food
of Thailand’s pad thai, Vietnamese pho, Japanese ramen, Chinese Lanzhou Lamian, German
spaetzle and hundreds of other noodle dishes are consumed every day by people in different
countries, on different continents. In 2020, 116.6 billion servings of instant noodles were eaten
across the globe.¹ In 2021, 16.9 million tons of pasta were produced worldwide.² There is no
denying that the noodle has made its impact across the planet.
But noodles also remain an overlooked type of food when they are such a large part of so
many people’s diets. From the bowls of ancient peoples over 4,000 years ago to the instant
ramen consumed by millions today, noodles have thrived as a diverse cuisine. The noodle
highlights the commonalities and connections humans have in culture, food, religion, and
history. It is also an example of the ability for humans to learn over generations and build upon
already existing ideas to develop culture, society and the human population. The question is
where did the noodle originate? How did noodles become such a worldwide phenomenon? And
how has the noodle evolved to the present day after thousands of years of history?
Noodles vs Pasta
Noodles and pasta seem to be used interchangeably as words to describe dishes we all
know and love. But saying noodles in reference to dishes from East Asia, while pasta is used to
reference the food from around the Mediterranean, specifically Italy, is more accurate. Although
foods from each region are similar in some senses, like shape, they are different in many other
senses like taste, ingredients, and preparation, thus the different names. This mirrors the
development of the respective pasta and noodle cultures of Italy and China, which had some
similarities, but mostly grew as different entities. As said in Pasta and Noodles: A Global
History, “...we see the evolution of two different and complimentary culinary traditions, each of
which influenced their respective worlds, and across the centuries evolved to garner loyal
followings throughout the globe.”3
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have risen to be two of the noodle pioneers of the world, with unique culinary and cultural
traditions surrounding noodles. However this food first came to be, or whether there was a
culture that used it first, the diversity and versatility of the noodle is a direct result of its many
origins. Noodles wouldn’t be the same today if the history of the noodle wasn’t such a cross-
cultural phenomenon.
make pasta today, although some pastas are made with wheat local to the regions where the pasta
is being made.
In China noodle history also starts with wheat.10 For many, many years wheat was not a
common plant in China and other grains were more used in ancient history. The climate in China
was not in favor of wheat crops like the areas around the Mediterranean. While areas around the
Mediterranean had hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters, East Asia was the opposite and that
heavily affected the ability of wheat to be grown. They also didn’t have very many tools for
processing the wheat and making it into flour. While the weather stayed the same, the tools
changed. With the invention of the rotary mill and irrigation technology, flour could be produced
quicker, and more noodles could be made. These different environmental factors influenced the
way pasta was made in each region and drove China to be more of a “fresh noodle” and softer
wheat country while Italy had more “dry pasta” and more durable wheat available.
Another type of noodle emerged which was starch-based instead of wheat based, which is
a noodle that China is well known for. This noodle could not be kneaded or shaped before
cooking so to help shape it, cooks partially gelatinized the noodle by putting it through a sieve
over boiling water, draining it, and drying it for later use, which groups it with the qiemian and
luosuo noodles that were also preserved for later consumption.15 During the Song dynasty,
noodles spread rapidly through China as a result of Mongol invasion in the North and the center
of Chinese civilization shifted to Southern China. This also caused foreign noodle recipes from
other places in Asia and Eastern Europe to make their way into Chinese noodle culture. The
spread of noodles throughout China further included ingredients like meat, seafood, and
vegetables that were being added to different noodles. Noodle shapes also really began to take on
a wide variety. This further diversified noodle dishes in China and established that noodles were
artisanal and domestic, a food for the working class. Noodles were (and are) classified not just by
how they are made but by shape, cooking crafts, seasoning, and different ingredients, indicating
just how complex of a food they are. After this period, during the Ming Dynasty, the
development of noodles was stagnant. There were no major developments until the industrial
revolution.
gravy (打卤面), which means flavored life; on the day of lunar February
2 “dragon head (龙抬头)”, people eat dragon whiskers noodles (龙须面) to look
forward to good weather. We eat different noodles in different
seasons and different festivals”.16 Noodles are also a way of connecting with your
community in China and showing love and appreciation to people close to you. They were and
still are a very communal food.
Today, there are many ways that noodles influence the daily life and beliefs of people in
China. Humans use food as a way to form relationships with other people and the world around
them, which is how noodles fit into food culture in Chinese society. There are different types of
noodles eaten to signify different events or connections. Eating noodles and peaches is a
common way of celebrating a birthday and long noodles are associated with having a long life.17
Food, like noodles, linked with different customs, traditions, and stories, are ever present in
Chinese culture and around the world. The process of handmade noodles not only connects
people to each other but the customer to the cook who made the noodles and creates an
appreciation for the craft. The noodle has certainly made its mark on Chinese culture and history,
and we can now turn to Italy to see the development of another kind of noodle culture.
Other scholars point to Estrucan sculptures in La Tomba dei Rilievi depicting rolling pins
and boards as evidence of pasta, even though pasta is nowhere to be seen in those artworks. 20
Others say that a dish called laganum, mentioned in early poetry written by Roman poet Horace,
was the first sign of pasta in Italy. He wrote “I come back home to my pot of leek, peas, and
laganum.”21 Descriptions of it barely resemble pasta as we know it today, although it might have
been an early version of lasagna. Another mention of pasta occured when Jewish people went to
France in the 11th century CE and were making something like pasta called vermishelsh. To
truly understand where pasta first emerges in Italy, it is important to look beyond the region to
other parts of the world. Like it is stated in On the Noodle Road by Jen Lin-Liu, “The
development of pasta in the country seemed to be the result of cross-pollination with other
cultures, unlike in China, where evidence suggested that noodles were homegrown”.22
In Italy, the progress of pasta was slow. For years and years, bread products were the
dominant food to make with wheat-flour. Kneaded doughs shaped into bread became popular
while pasta was mostly a gruel-like substance, hardly eaten. The earliest type of pasta in Italy
that resembles what we actually have today is lasagne and vermicelli. These two pastas represent
four of the pasta shapes that categorize all the various pasta shapes that they had back then and
we have now. These categories are long goods, short goods, egg noodles and specialty products.
Lasagne requires making a large sheet of dough while vermicelli requires making strands of
dough. Lasagne appeared much earlier in Italian history than vermicelli did. The sheets of dough
that were lasagne can be cut and made into lasagna, ravioli, tortellini, croseti, longeti and various
other types of pasta. Since vermicelli appeared later, historians have taken this to indicate that it
was introduced to Italy by some other group of people, possibly from Southwest Asia. Vermicelli
would be made into strands of dough that could then be made into early types of pasta like
tri/tria, itrium, fidaws (an early word for fideos), and other pastas that evolved into what we have
today. Dry pasta and fresh pasta were also categories of pasta that emerged. Vermicelli were
generally dried pastas while lasagne were fresh and consumed after they were made. 23
In the Middle Ages, pasta started to become a popular food in Italy and the surrounding
areas. Fresh pasta shops would line the streets and dry pasta was making its way around the
Mediterranean and beyond. Sicily was a pasta hub and a large reason for the success of pasta.
They had fantastic durum wheat crops that made excellent pasta. The pasta producers of Sicily
also found themselves to be in control of many of the steps of pasta creation, from wheat
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production to selling the product. This was mainly because many pasta makers were good with
business and had the financial and commercial resources to produce pasta. Sicily was also,
geographically, in an advantageous spot. The island was at a global crossroads, “at the
intersection of the Christian and Muslim worlds.”24 Sicilians also consumed wheat products
more than other places because there was easy access to it and demand for pasta was high.
Sardinia, Pisa, Naples, and Genoa were also notable pasta hubs, Sardinia especially because of
its similar situation as Sicily; at the crossroads of global trade and the growth of quality wheat
crops. The pasta trade was ever present in Pisa, Naples, and Genoa as well but not on the scale of
Sicily or Sardinia at the time. There was extensive trade between these areas as well as outside of
the Italian peninsula, with North Africa and other parts of Europe. Over time these trade
networks became very interconnected and complex.
There was also specific demand for dry pasta or fresh pasta based on the location. Dry
pasta was underappreciated because it was seen as inferior to fresh, artisanal pasta, especially
among the upper class. Even so, pasta was a luxury and dry pasta was important in its own way.
It was able to last for a while and be used on long journeys or kept in the house to be cooked for
different meals. The technique used to make this early pasta is up in the air because there are not
a lot of sources from this time. We know that kneading dough, shaping the pasta, and tools like
rolling pins were used but not much else was recorded from this first generation of pasta makers.
noodles. Machines replaced people and many pasta makers no longer needed to make the pasta
by hand because there was a machine for every step. This was a radical change that increased its
availability to the world beyond Italy and made the region famous for its pasta.
Today people are reverting back to handmade pasta, as a way to connect to the past and
preserve the techniques and recipes of the original pasta makers in Italy. Pasta traditions have
survived, passed down through generations, and as the pasta industry grew as Italians
immigrated out of Italy and to the Americas, spread to other parts of the world. The variety of
local and regional traditions across the world would not be where it is today without the Italian
influence and Italy would not be one of the pasta hubs of the world if not for the many influences
of early societies around the Mediterranean.
Conclusion
The noodle, like the other universal foods of rice, potatoes, and beans, are not limited to
where they are most popular or where they have the most history. Noodles have become a staple
of many countries across the world and, as a result, noodle dishes have evolved even more to fit
the different tastes of a diverse number of cultures.
In other East Asian countries, such as India, Japan, and South Korea, noodles have had
different paths. In India, the cultural significance and community meaning of noodles in Chinese
culture resonated with ideas of Hinduism in India at the time when the noodle was being
introduced.26 This caused the noodle to become a staple food in India and even as the ideas of
community change, noodles change with it. Maggi, an instant noodle brand, represents
individualistic ideas that are developing in India in the modern day. In Japan, Korea, and other
parts of the world, the instant noodle has also been a cultural sensation. Ramen and other noodles
also make up a large part of food culture in East Asian countries, showing that the influence of
the noodle has spanned centuries. Southwest Asian countries have been thought to be the origin
of early domesticated wheat, different types of noodles, and different techniques of making
noodles which have all had influence on the noodle history of Italy and China.
In North and South America, iconic dishes of spaghetti and meatballs, macaroni and
cheese or tallarines verdes would not be possible without Italian immigrants moving there. In
North Africa, dishes like couscous and rechta emerged, offering a new version of pasta. They
also were prolific in the wheat industry and trade throughout history. And finally in Europe,
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countries like Spain, Germany, England, and others were creating their own pasta dishes and
kickstarting the spread of an industry that would become international. These examples are only
a few ways noodles and pasta show up across the histories of countless countries.
The history of noodles and pasta is not a single country's history to claim but a global
history of the generations of pasta and noodle makers who perfected their craft and taught it to
younger generations. It is said that “Culture evolves through the collective accumulation of small
variations”27 like the individual cooks' innovations on recipes leading to the variety of pasta and
noodles today, or the inventions of different people that led to the machines that would make
pasta and noodles a global sensation. We owe this fabulous food to all of the cultures and people
who came before, which echoes the communal nature and love of noodles and pasta around the
world.
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Endnotes:
1. “Instant Noodles Trivia,” World Instant Noodles Association, accessed March 10, 2022,
https://instantnoodles.org/en/noodles/demand/trivia/.
3. Kantha Shelke, Pasta and Noodles: A Global History (London: Reaktion Books Ltd.,
2016), 95.
4. Peter Jackson, “Marco Polo and His ‘Travels,’” Bulletin of the School of Oriental and
African Studies, University of London 61, no. 1 (1998): 82,
http://www.jstor.org/stable/3107293.
5. Françoise Sabban and Silvano Serventi, Pasta: The Story of a Universal Food, trans.
Antony Shuggar (Columbia University Press, 2002), 10.
12. Sabban and Silvan, Pasta, 273. “The Ode to Bing” is one of many poems written by Shu
Xi and explores the ways in which pasta fits into the cultures of early China. It recounts
noodles eaten during the different seasons, how noodles are prepared and even different
noodle shapes like “dog tongues”, “piglet ears” or “dagger laces”.
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16. Guansheng Ma and Na Zhang, “Noodles, traditionally and today,” Journal of Ethnic
Foods 3, no. 3 (September 2016): 210, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2015.11.004.
17. Guansheng Ma, “Food, eating behavior, and culture in Chinese society,” Journal of
Ethnic Foods 2, no. 4 (December 2015): 195 - 199,
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2015.11.004.
18. “Jerusalem Talmud,” Jewish Virtual Library: Project of AICE, accessed March 12, 2022,
https://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/talmud-jerusalem. The Jerusalem Talmud, also
known as the Palestinian Talmud, is one of two Talmuds. They consist of notes from
Rabbi’s on the Jewish oral tradition of Mishnah.
21. B. L. Ullman, “Horace Serm. I. 6. 115 and the History of the Word Laganum,” Classical
Philology 7, no. 4 (1912): 442–49, http://www.jstor.org/stable/261474.
22. Jen Lin-Liu, On the Noodle Road: From Beijing to Rome with Love and Pasta,
(Riverhead Books, 2013), 581.
26. Vaishnav Shetty, “The Historical Role of the Noodle in Indian Society by Vaishnav
Shetty,” Noodles on the Silk Road, Accessed January 2020,
https://scholarblogs.emory.edu/noodles/2018/07/03/the-historical-role-of-the-noodle-in-
indian-society-by-vaishnav-shetty/.
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27. David Baker, “Collective Learning: A Potential Unifying Theme of Human History,”
Journal of World History 26, no. 1 (2015): 79, http://www.jstor.org/stable/43818826.
17
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18
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