SRF ‐ Basic Theory about car setup (from John Bodin and Adam V Brouillard)

values
I can’t really tell a difference. In theory more toe out is more optimized for tight corners and toe-in is for faster ones. You are always looking at a
Front Toe compromise anyway. I normally just leave it at 0. 0
At the front, a little negative toe (toe-out) helps loosen the car (J.Bodin)
For optimal straight line braking, you can probably run down to a 54 or so. The lower the brake bias you run the more throttle you will have to give at
Brake
turn in though. I typically run 56 or so just to give me a little extra stability.
Bias (front
I should probably explain more here about the engine braking and how it works with brake bias. Your engine braking is a braking force through the 54
brake
rear tires. (...) This is why holding some throttle to remove the engine braking is the only way to keep your brake bias from going too far.
bias)
if you are spinning under the brakes on turn entry, adjust the brake bias forward (J.Bodin)

Primary adjustments that create the most significant handling change on the car. Stiffening one end will remove relative grip at that end. For
example putting the front from medium to hard will remove relative grip at that end and shift your balance more toward understeer.
Anti-Roll
For extra compliance you should run softer bars and for faster response you can run relatively firmer bars. I have found that as long as you can keep Soft or
Bars
it off the bumpstops (firm roll-bar allow lower ride height) you can actually run a firm rear and soft front, and you will still not be oversteering in most Medium
(front)
flat corners, assuming you have a smooth corner entry.
Typical settings for anti-roll bars (ARBs) on the SRF are FIRM front, SOFT rear (John Bodin)

Higher pressures will give you faster response at the expense of ultimate grip (It’s a compromise setting).
Upon further testing I have been upping my rear pressures to 24 and lowering my front to 20. It’s very hard to verify if this is improving grip even after
Tire F20
looking at telemetry, but it has been giving better temperature readings. When you are close with tire pressures a few psi in either direction makes
Pressure R24
very little difference.
you will need to run 5-10 psi higher pressures than you might expect to get the tires to feel predictable.
Camber works together with your pressure settings and in general you are trying to maximize your contact patch. The plateau seems reasonably
wide so I generally run 1.5 front and rear. I’ve done skid pad testing and I didn’t notice any gains going more negative.
There is no optimal setting as for example corners with more banking will want more negative camber. So it’s a compromise setting and close is
Camber generally good enough. 1,5
One note for beginners about camber and pressures is that if you are still not getting enough stability with the maxed out anti-roll bars you can really
jack up your front pressures or camber to lower grip at the front.
you will want to run cambers that may be a bit closer to zero than you might otherwise for now. This is also helped by higher pressures

There are several things going on with caster that I don’t want to get too deeply into right now, but I’ll hit the highlights. A higher caster setting will
dynamically change camber more, as well as dynamically change your corner weights more. It also increases steering effort, but you can always
tone that down in your steering settings. First I’ll go over the camber change. If most corners on the track are the same radii, you can use your caster
to increase camber on the outside wheel to it’s optimal while at the same time reducing inside camber to increase it’s grip. This not only improves
Caster
your turning ability, but you can also run less static camber and have better braking performance. This is what circle trackers spend lots of time
optimizing. But on road courses with a mix of corners the higher your caster the bigger the change in dynamic cambers from slow corners to fast.
Caster will also dynamically change your cross weights. More caster equals a looser car in tighter corners. If you didn’t understand a word I just said,
don’t worry about it, just run a lower setting and move on, it’s not a super critical setting.
 I struggle with rebound settings more than anything else except ride height.
First off, for beginners, you should run higher rebound settings at the front as this will help counteract some of the yaw inertia effects discussed earlier.
Rebound F10
I like the 10 front/5 rear split of the baseline setup, but you can go higher on the front if you like for more stability.
stiffness R05
For more advanced drivers I like 0-5 front for maximum compliance and a rear of 5-10. This feels about right to me for most bumpy tracks.
There's not a very big difference between full stiff and full soft.

Spring perch offset is the basic chassis setting for the front end of the Skippy. A spring perch is a collar on the shock/spring assembly which seats the
Spring
bottom of the spring. The spring perch offset is the distance from the spring perch to a known reference point. On the Skippy, when the SPO is set to
Perch
zero, the ride heights at the front and rear are the same and the car has no “rake”.
(from
A negative SPO value means that the spring/shock assembly is extended and this has the effect of raising the ride height at the front of the car. A
Skippy)
positive SPO value means that the spring/shock assembly is compressed and this lowers the ride height at the front of the car.
There is a lot of stuff going on with ride height on the SRF. Standard racecar theory is that you want the lowest ride height possible without bottoming
too much in order to lower your CG for increased grip. But the SRF has some strange stuff going on that makes this normally non optimal. First off, for
some reason, this car will understeer in right handers more than left handers.
To compensate for this I run a corner weight split of about 25 pounds. This would mean your rear left tire would have a 25 lb higher load than your
Ride rear right. You should adjust all 4 corners to make sure your left and right ride heights are the same so you have a level chassis. One further thing to
4,5
Height note about fixing the assymetry is that running the crossweight like this gets you closer to the rear left bumpstop, which I explain why that is an issue
below.
For beginners I definitely recommend jacking up the rear to 4.5 as it will make driving the car much easier. Front ride height can generally be run
very low, but the greater height differential will change your balance, although not by as much as changing anti-roll bars. Beginners should run as
high a front setting as they like, the higher it is the more understeer you will get. More advanced drivers can lower it as much as they like.
I figured out a pretty nifty way using motec to figure out the optimal shiftpoints. You basically just do acceleration runs through all gears and then
overlay the runs. Basic rule: Shift at 5600.
SRF Shift Points:
Shift
1-2 6050-6250 31-32 mph
Points
2-3 5600-5900 54-57mph
3-4 5600-5750 77-80 mph
4-5 5550-5600 102-103 mph

Rear Toe in will give you stability as the rear tires will build grip faster and you also want some toe-in to maximize rear grip by keeping the slip angles
more optimized. In theory you want more toe-in for tighter corners. It’s a compromise, and I don’t think this makes a huge difference. I normally
Rear Toe 1/32
leave it at 1/32 or 2/32 toe-in.
At the rear, a little positive toe (toe-in) helps stabilize the car.
Primary adjustments that create the most significant handling change on the car. Stiffening one end will remove relative grip at that end. For
example putting the front from medium to hard will remove relative grip at that end and shift your balance more toward understeer.
Anti-Roll
For extra compliance you should run softer bars and for faster response you can run relatively firmer bars. I have found that as long as you can keep
Bars Firm
it off the bumpstops (firm roll-bar allow lower ride height) you can actually run a firm rear and soft front, and you will still not be oversteering in most
(rear)
flat corners, assuming you have a smooth corner entry.
Typical settings for anti-roll bars (ARBs) on the SRF are FIRM front, SOFT rear (John Bodin)