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Utilization and Evaluation of Betalain Pigment from Red Dragon Fruit

(Hylocereus Polyrhizus) as a Natural Colorant for Lipstick

Article in Jurnal Teknologi · July 2014

DOI: 10.11113/jt.v69.3326

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 Jurnal Full paper
Teknologi

Utilization and Evaluation of Betalain Pigment from Red Dragon Fruit

(Hylocereus Polyrhizus) as a Natural Colorant for Lipstick
N. N. Azwanida*, Normasarah, Asrul Afandi

Faculty of Agro Based Industry, Universiti Malaysia Kelantan, Jeli Campus, Locked Bag No. 100, 17600 Jeli, Kelantan, Malaysia

*Corresponding author: [email protected]

Article history Abstract

Received :1 January 2014 Lipstick formulations are most widely used to enhance the beauty of lips. However, current lipcare
Received in revised form : products are often caused irritation (dry lips, chapped lips and wrinkled lips) to the consumers. The use of
15 February 2014 synthetic ingredients has also raised safety concern due to adverse health effects in the long term use. The
Accepted :18 March 2014 objective of this study was to formulate natural lipsticks by using betalain pigments extracted from
Hylocereuspolyrhizus and the lipsticks were evaluated for their organoleptic properties (spreading,
Graphical abstract hardness, shine and gloss), antimicrobial and antioxidant potential. The organoleptic properties of the
formulated lipsticks were found to be satisfactory in order to give attractive beauty to the lips. The
antimicrobial activities of the formulated lipstick showed significant inhibition compared to commercial
lipsticks and the betalain pigment was proved to have antimicrobial effect. The formulated lipstick
showed to have significant antioxidant activities compared to the reference ascorbic acid. In DPPH
radical scavenging assay, the IC50 value of the formulated lipstick was 54.29 μg/mL, whereas IC 50 value
for the reference ascorbic acid was 14.56 μg/mL. As the lipsticks were prepared using natural ingredients
like dragon fruit, olive oil and vegetable fat, additional medicinal values were added to the product.
Adverse health risk effects as concerned by the consumers was minimized and the product can be used
without hesitation and confidence. The lipsticks with the natural ingredients like vegetable fat and olive
oil is an alternative to synthetic product and serves as an economical and effective cosmoseutical product.

Keywords: Cosmetics; cosmeceutical; lipstick formulation; dragon fruit; vegetable fat; natural product

© 2014 Penerbit UTM Press. All rights reserved.

1.0 INTRODUCTION their health. The herbal users give priority to their health care
needs, making them opt for herbal products than synthetic
Nowadays, the whole world is turning towards the use of products [2, 3].
traditional products and adopting more natural way of life through Lip coloring practice originated from the ancient prehistoric
increased use of herbal products in their daily life. People are time. The coloring pigments came from natural resources such as
more interested in natural food, herbal medicines and traditional crushed carmine beetle, henna and ants. Today, the practice
practices for healthy life. Higher demands were seen for the continued and is widely accepted as an important cosmetic
natural products cultivated through biological/organic farming practice. The use of lipstick has increased with the available
without any used of chemicals and pesticides. Recently, herbal choice of color shades, textures, fragrance and other extra
cosmetics are pushing through the cosmetics industry in the world properties of today’s lipstick. This can be observed from the fact
and the demand for the herbal cosmetics is rising and quite that lipstick has steadily increased in market value in order to
significant [1]. satisfy the demand from the customers particularly women
Herb is known as a symbol of safety in contrast to synthetic [4].Recently, lipsticks have been under the attention of many
products which portray negativity especially on human health. health regulators because of the safety issues. A microscopic look
Many herbal preparations such as herbal medicines, herbal tonics, at the ingredients that go in to the lipstick should be done because
herbal pastes, herbal shampoos, herbal contraceptives and herbal lipsticks are also unknowingly consumed by the users. Usually,
lipsticks have seen great demand among the consumers. Herbal the synthetic dyes used to form the color of the lipsticks are
medicines in particular have become the fastest growing segment dangerous to humans for consumption. Coal tars used to form the
in herbal products as many positive testimonials from the synthetic dyes can cause allergy, nausea, dermatitis and drying of
consumers support the ability of the herbal medicines to heal the lips. Worse, they can be carcinogenic and even fatal. Thus,
various ailments. Currently, consumers not only care for their this work was done to formulate herbal lipstick as an alternative
outer appearances but they are also aware of the importance of

69:6 (2014) 139–142 | www jurnalteknologi.utm.my | eISSN 2180–3722 |

140 N. Azwanida, Normasarah & Asrul / Jurnal Teknologi (Sciences & Engineering) 69:6 (2014), 139–142

for the synthetic to minimize the side effects and help consumers temperature for stability study as lipstick usually undergoes
to use the product with confidence. softening and deformation at temperatures over 50ºC [6]. From
The aim and objective of the present study were to formulate this formulation, no organoleptic or spreadability changes were
herbal lipsticks with vegetable fat, olive oil and virgin coconut oil observed.
as natural excipients that replaced conventional synthetic vehicles
of lipsticks. Olive oil and virgin coconut oil help to promote Normal Stability Study
moisturizing and have antibacterial effects. Olive oil and virgin
coconut oil will also act as preservatives to the lipstick produced. The Stability Test of a lipstick usually begins 48 hours after
formulation [6]. A quantity of 350 g of the formulation was
prepared for the Normal Stability Test, in which the organoleptic
2.0 EXPERIMENTAL characteristics (color, odor, appearance), spreadability and
melting point were evaluated for 60 days under the conditions of
2.1 Preparation of Lipstick Room Temperature (RT, 24.0 ± 3.0ºC) and Oven (O, 40.0 ±
2.0ºC) [6]. The samples were stored as indicated in duplicates.
Dragon fruits were obtained from MARDI, Bachok, Kelantan. The formulation was stored at room temperature (24.0 ± 3.0ºC)
They provided the matured red Hylocereuspolyrhizus for our for 48 hours and then evaluated at baseline (t0). It was then stored
research works and all experimental works was done at the under different conditions in accordance to the Normal Stability
Faculty of Agro Based Industry Laboratory, University Malaysia Study, and characteristics was assessed on the 3rd, 7th, 15th, 30th
Kelantan (UMK), Jeli campus, Kelantan. and 60th days. Assessments at t0 were considered as a reference to
compare the results.
Extraction of Colour (Betalain Pigment)
Melting Point
The red-fleshed dragon fruit (Hylocereuspolyrhius) was cut into
similarly sized small cubes using a knife and blended in the To determine the melting point, the material was made molten to
laboratory blender for 30 s. The homogenised sample was firstly fill the capillaries (duplicate). The capillaries were coupled to a
freeze dried in order to reduce moisture content of the sample for system with a thermometer and immersed in a vial with water at a
a more efficient extraction process [5]. The blended dragon fruit controlled temperature. The melting point was assumed at the
flesh was mixed with distilled water in a 500 mL flask at the ratio temperature at which melting of the lipstick sample was first
of 2:3 (w/v). Then, the flask was covered with aluminium foil and observed [6].
placed into a shaking water bath for 60 minutes at 60oC. After
that, the filtrate was concentrated by rotary evaporator for 4 hours Organoleptic Characteristics
at 40oC to remove the solvent and followed by lyophilisation to
remove the remaining water inside the extracts. The dried extract Color and appearance were characterized visually with a loupe of
was packed in air tight glass container and stored at 4oC for 10x magnification while the odour was compared by the
further studies. evaluator. The characteristic described below were developed by
the evaluator to determine organoleptic criteria. Samples were
Formulation of Lipstick analysed twice during the predetermined time for each condition,
and compared with a freshly prepared formulation (to):
The lipstick was prepared as the method described in the literature N – Normal;
[1, 2]. The ingredients used was tabulated in Table 1. M – Modified;
IM - Intensely Modified.
Table 1 Ingredients with their prescribed quantity in the formulation of
lipstick Test of Spreadability
Ingredient Quality percentage Importance The test of spreadability consist of applying the product (at room
(%) temperature of (24.0 ± 3.0ºC) repeatedly onto a glass slide to
visually observe the uniformity in the formation of the protective
Bees wax 15 Glossy & hardness
Vegetable Fat 75 Blending layer and whether the stick fragmented, deformed or broke during
properties/antioxidant application. For this test, the following criteria below were
Olive oil + virgin 5 Moisturizing/ developed by the analyst:
coconut oil antimicrobial G- Good: uniform, does not leave fragments; perfect
Glycerin 1 Surfactant application, without deformation of the lipstick;
Colour Extract 4 Colouring I- Intermediate: uniform; leaves few fragments;
agent/antioxidant appropriate application; little deformation of the
Rose essence s.q Fragrance
lipstick;
B- Bad: not uniform; leaves many fragments; difficult or
inappropriate application, intense deformation of the
2.2 Evaluation of Lipstick lipstick.
Preliminary Stability Study Antioxidant Potential
The formulation developed was evaluated in the Preliminary The DPPH radical scavenging activity was calculated according
Stability Tests which include organoleptic characteristics (color, to literature [7]. 1 mL of a DPPH solution (100 mM in methanol:
odor and appearance) and spreadability over a minimum of three water (50% v/v) was mixed with 1 mL of diluted 1mg/ml sample.
days at room temperature (24.0 ± 3.0ºC) and oven temperature The reaction mixture was incubated in the dark for 20 min, and
(40.0 ± 2.0ºC). The oven condition was used in highest the optical density of the samples was recorded at 517 nm against
141 N. Azwanida, Normasarah & Asrul / Jurnal Teknologi (Sciences & Engineering) 69:6 (2014), 139–142

the blank (methanol: water, (50% v/v)). For the control, 1 mL of The spreadability of the formulation at room temperature was
the DPPH solution was mixed with 1 mL of methanol: water considered good, as they showed smooth uniformity upon
(50% v/v) and the absorbance of the solution were recorded after application without deforming of the lipstick. Under the oven
20 min. The ability to scavenge DPPH radical was calculated condition, the lipstick material showed inconsistency such as
using the following equation: rough application, impaired spreadability and deforming the
product during the test. Furthermore, storage in the oven (40.0 ±
(𝐴𝑜−𝐴1) 2.0°C) caused loss of product functionality. However, the
%𝐼𝑃 = [ ]𝑥100(1)
𝐴𝑜 formulations stored under this condition were found to return to
baseline characteristics after a few hours at room temperature.
Where A1 = absorbance of the test sample and Ao = absorbance
of control. Each assay was carried out in triplicates. Table 2 Evaluation of organoleptic characteristics, spreadability and
melting point of lipstick formulation
Antibacterial Activity
Storage condition
The formulated lipstick with dragon fruit colour extract added was Room temperature Oven temperature
investigated for its antimicrobial activity as well as formulated Time (days)
lipstick without colour extract. The water soluble antibiotic, Parameters* t0 30 70 150 300 600 30 70 150 300 600
gentamicin sulfate (10 μg) was used as positive control. Sterile
nutrient agar was inoculated with the test organism under sterile Aspect Uniform N N N N N N IM IM IM IM

condition and then poured into sterile petri dishes. A sterile cork Colour Red N N N N N N N N M M
borer was used to remove four plugs from each agar plates to Odor Rose N N N N N N N N N N
Spreadability G G G G G G G I I I I
produce 8 mm diameter wells. A 100 μl of formulated lipstick
was added to each well and allowed to diffuse at room MP**(0C) ± 65±0.0 65.5 68.8 64.8 64.8 66.1 69.0 63.8 63.5 67.0 65.5
temperature for 20 minutes and the plates were incubated CV*** 0.5 0.3 0.3 0.7 0.7 0.5 1.8 0.5 0.1 0.5
overnight at 37oC. Test sample was tested against each organism *All parameters were evaluated in duplicate
in triplicate. The calculated of agar diffusion technique was used t0: Preparation of the formulation after 48h
as zone of inhibition. The recorded diameter of inhibition zones of Aspect, Color and Odor: N – Normal; M – Modified; IM – Intensely modified;
Spreadability: G – Good; I – Intermediate; B – Bad;
growth measured in millimetres is presented in Table 3. **MP - Melting Point: mean of two determinations.
***CV – Coefficient of variation

3.0 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

DPPH Radical Scavenging Activity Assay
Preliminary Study of Stability
In DPPH radical scavenging assay, as shown in Figure 1, the
formulated lipstick solution exhibited a concentration dependent
The formulated lipstick showed appropriate organoleptic
antiradical activity. The formulated lipstick showed significant
characteristics (color red, rose fragrance, uniform aspect) and
antioxidant potential because of the properties of olive oil and
solidified at the temperature of 45°C. It was observed that there
virgin coconut oil, which are known for their high antioxidant
were no sweating, bleeding, streaking and blooming after three
properties. However, the antioxidant potential was increased after
days of observation when the product was stored in room
the addition of the betalian pigment. The result suggested that the
temperature (24oC) and oven temperature (40oC).
pigment itself also exhibit the DPPH radical scavenging activity
and has antioxidant properties.
Normal Stability Test
The IC50 value of the formulated lipstick (with pigment
added) was 54.29 ± 1.9 μg/ml and IC50 value of the formulated
The results for Normal stability test were summarized in Table 2.
lipstick (without pigment added) was 76.31±0.43μg/mLwhile the
Color, odor, appearance, spreadability and melting point of the
IC50 value for the reference ascorbic acid was 14.56± 0.24 μg/mL.
formulation were evaluated for 60 days. Melting point remained
The DPPH antioxidant assay is based on the ability of 1, 1-
stable throughout the stability test and had a mean of 66.0± 0.5oC.
diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH), a stable free radical,
The color of the formulation was considered stable under
todecolorize in the presence of antioxidants [9]. The method is
room temperature, but there were changes under the oven
basedon the reduction of DPPHˉ solution by ahydrogen donating
condition, from red to darker red after one month of storage,
antioxidant forming a non-radicalform of DPPH-H. The samples
classified as modified in Table 2. Therefore, it was evident that
were able to reduce DPPH radical (visible deep purple color) to
this formulation of lipstick was not stable after being subjected to
the yellow-coloured diphenyl picryl hydrazine. It has been found
a temperature of 40.0 ± 2.0ºC as the base mostly consist of
that cysteine, glutathione, ascorbic acid, α-tocopherol,
vegetable fat.
polyhydroxyaromatic compounds (e.g. hydroquinone, pyrogallol,
The odor characteristic of rose essence remained stable
gallic acid), and aromaticamines (e.g. p-phenylenediamine, p-
throughout the 60 days of testing under all conditions evaluated.
aminophenol) reduce and decolorize 1,1-diphenyl-2-
The visual aspect was considered uniform under the room
picrylhydrazyl through their hydrogen donating ability [10].
temperature, while under oven conditions, the presence of some
Therefore, one of the possible mechanism the formulated lipstick
white spots (fat bloom) was observed on the surface of the lipstick
(with pigment) has better antioxidant capacity might be attributed
from the third evaluation day onwards. The fat bloom
to good amount of phenolic compounds in the pigment extract of
phenomenon resulted in a whitish appearance on the surface of
dragon fruit. The pigments play an important role in absorbing
the product. This phenomenon is related to the crystalline
and neutralizing free radicals by redox reaction.
formation and a phase separation of the triglycerides within the
crystalline structure of the vegetable fat. The liquid fraction of fat
within the matrix migrated to the surface and recrystallized into a
whitish spots [8].
 142 N. Azwanida, Normasarah & Asrul / Jurnal Teknologi (Sciences & Engineering) 69:6 (2014), 139–142

produces a good uniform product. This formulation would increase

customer acceptance because of the alternative natural ingredients
in the formulation substituting chemical ingredients like isopropyl
myristate and lanolin that may cause darkening of lips. The
formulated lipstick also offers excellent properties of spreadability,
smoothness, covering and stable when stored under room
temperature. Additional properties of antioxidant and
antimicrobials properties added extra market values to the product
as a cosmoseutical product.

Acknowledgement

The authors would like to thank Ministry of Higher Education,

Figure 1 DPPH radical scavenging activity of Formulated lipstick
Malaysia and Research Acculturation Grants (RAGs) for funding
(without pigment), Formulated Lipstick (with pigment) along with
standard Ascorbic acid (Mean ± SD,n=3). Concentrations are displayed on this research activity.
logarithmic scales.

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The combination of natural ingredients such as vegetable fat,
oliveoil and virgin coconut oil as blending agent and vehicle

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