Memorials of Henry Forbes Julian (Hester Julian, 1914)

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CHARLES GRIFFIN
&.
CO., LTD.
MEMORIALS
OF
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
CHARLES GRIFFIN &
CO. LTD.
Publishers
Second Edition. Revised throughout. In medium 8vo. With numerous Plates, Maps, and Illustrations.
pp. i-xxiv+460.
21s net
CYANIDING GOLD & SILVER ORES

A Practical Treatise on the Cyanide
its
Process
Application,
Methods
of Working, Design
and Construction of Plant and Costs
By H.
FORBES JULIAN
; ;
Mining and Metallurgical Engineer Specialist in Gold Late Technical Adviser of the Deutsche Gold und Silber Scheide Anstalt, Frankfort-on-Main
And
Contents:
vestigations.
EDGAR SMART,
A.M.LG.E.
Civil and Metallurgical Engineer
Principles involved in Dissolution and Precipitation of Metals. Dissolution of the Gold and Silver. Temperature Effects. Absorption of Air by Solutions. Action of Various Cyanide Solutions. Sources of Loss of Cyanide. Precipitation. Precipitation by Zinc. Electrical PreCleaning-up, Refining, and cipitation. Other Methods of Precipitation. Smelting, Applications of the Cyanide Process. Double Treatment. Direct Treatment of Dry Crushed Ore. Crushing with Cyanide Solution. Slimes. Dissolving the Gold and Silver in Slimes. Extraction by SucAgitation and Natural Settlement. Filter Presses. cessive Washings. Vats. Essential Parts of a Cyanide Plant (Construction). Piping, Cocks, Launders, and Buildings. Handling Material. Ropes and Gears for
Leaching.
of Plant.
Crushing. Weighing
Early History of the Cyanide Process. Preliminary Inand Measuring. Percolation and
Haulage. Belt Conveyors. Pumps. Spitzlutte and Spitzkasten. Cost Cost of Treatment.- Complete Plants. Roasting. Index.
SOME PRESS OPINIONS

supplied with an admirable scries of working drawings and with valuable tables of costs and working results . an excellent index, completes a work which may be regarded both at a general treatise and an enquire within on the cyanide process." Minivg Journal. "A work of paramount importance to mining engineers, and all such can be recommended to include it in their technical library." Mining- World. "Full of accurate and needful information, with elaborate tabular matter and careful working drawings." A fAentgum. " One of the best and most comprehensive works on cyaniding published." South African Engineering. "A very complete and practical treatise it would be difficult to improve upon this work on the score of all-round utility and practicality." Mechanical Engineer.
.
.
.
"A standard
'
work
'
London:
CHARLES GRIFFIN &
CO. Ltd., Exeter Street, Strand
Frontispiece
1^%
ti rv
Pn^^>t/u>^y|^
Photo by Ciolina, Frankfurt
MEMORIALS HENRY FORBES JULIAN

OF
JOINT
MEMBER OF THE INSTITUTION OF MINING AND METALLURGY AUTHOR OF " CYANIDING GOLD AND SILVER ORES"
mto
Ipetis&eD in tbe ''Citanic'' Disaster
WRITTEN AND EDITED BY HIS WIFE
HESTER JULIAN
AUTHOR OF " A MEMOIR OF WILLIAM PENGELLY, F.R.S."
WITH INTRODUCTORY NOTICES BY
THE
REV.
J.
O.
BEVAN,
AND
M.A., F.G.S., F.S.A.

F.I.C.
H.
LIVINGSTONE SULMAN,
ALSO
LATE PRESIDENT OF THE INSTITUTION OF MINING AND METALLURGY
Uettets from fte " STitanic " anlr tje " (!DarpatJia "
WITH PORTRAIT AND PLATES
LONDON
CHARLES GRIFFIN & COMPANY LIMITED
EXETER STREET, STRAND,
1914
{Ah
rights reserved]
W.C.
T/V
/4-0
605566
7.f.6-S-
.A'
PRINTED AT
THE BALLANTYNE PRESS LONDON
TO THE MEMORY OF
THOSE BRAVE MEN ON THE TITANIC

WHO
SACRIFICED THEIR LIVES FOR
THE SAFETY
OF THE
WOMEN AND CHILDREN

I
DEDICATE
THIS BOOK.
"
Of all the
so
ways
in
which death can come, none

helping
to
is
noble as
when
it does so in
save the
lives
of others.^*
Extract from a letter of Sir
J. J.
Thomson
on the death of Henry Forbes Julian.
PREFACE
IN prompted by her own
compiling this memorial the writer has not been

*
feelings alone
rather has
she yielded to the suggestions of friends,
who
were of opinion that the record of a strenuous life and of an unselfish personality, closed under tragic circumIn the course stances, would interest a wider circle. of his profession as a mining engineer Henry Forbes He Julian was called upon to travel in many lands. was one of the pioneers of the metallurgical industry in South Africa ; and was enabled to assist in the development of mining work in Germany, the United For these reasons it was felt States, and Mexico. that a record should be preserved of his adventures and experiences in districts some of which are still but little known to English readers. In the text are
interspersed illustrations relating to various localities to which reference is made.
Julian visited the Victoria Falls on River before many white men had had the Zambesi the opportunity of seeing them ; he was amongst the early explorers of the Barotse district ; he brought home photographs taken by himself of some of the unique archaeological features of ancient Mexico. These facts will furnish some idea of the range and novelty of his travels. Indications are afforded in the text of his scientific acquirements, his patient industry, his adaptability to varied circumstances ; whilst his letters set forth
vii
Henry Forbes
viii
PREFACE
and equable temperament.
it
his affectionate disposition
In this work
has been thought desirable to include
contributions from
two
friends
and
close associates,
each of whom deals respectively with his characteristics from a slightly different point of view the Rev. J. O. Bevan, Rector of Chillenden, from the personal and temperamental, and Mr. Livingstone Sulman, late President of the Institution of Mining and Metallurgy, from the scientific and professional side. The writer has felt that for her to assume the position of a critic would be alike undesirable and unbecoming. She has therefore simply endeavoured to trace her husband's life as it appeared to the one who knew him most intimately during the last strenuous decade. The natural regret that her knowledge of metallurgy is too limited to enable her to give any adequate summary of his services to science is softened by the fact that Mr. Sulman's sketch conveys a deeper impression than could have been gathered from any words of hers. Her thanks are due to him, to the Rev. J. O. Bevan, Mr. W. Crooke, Mr. S. Hartland, Dr. A. C, Haddon, and Mr. F. W. Rudler for their interest in the progress of the Memoir, and to those friends who have kindly allowed the inclusion of letters. Whilst keeping journals abroad (often hastily written on trains and steamers) she was indebted for a few of the facts mentioned to publications looked into at the time, which are now impossible to trace, but she gladly records her obligation, and wishes it were in her power to render a more adequate acknow:
ledgment of these varied sources of information. The Jubilee of the Devonshire Association, founded by her father, Mr. Pengelly, occurring in the year her husband started for the fatal voyage on the Titanic, and the return desire of the latter to speedily to England for its celebration, suggested the
PREFACE
inclusion of references to the geologist.
life
ix
and work
of the
The
spirit
writer has entered
upon her
task in a different
from that which animated her in setting forth the similar memorial to her father. In that case there was fitly rounded off a career marked, amongst other things, by length of days. The worker had
cheerfully laid down his tools had ended his explorations had accomplished his share of the world's work.
In respect of Henry Forbes Julian, his

in the full vigour of
threads of the skein of existence remained unravelled. That such a life should have been suddenly and tragically brought to a close belongs to the mysteries of a world higher and more complex than ours. To his friends that fact will lend to this volume a pathetic interest whilst for those to whom he was unknown the Memoir may afford some idea of the work already accomplished, which showed by its quality and amount how much more might have been expected from further researches by him in the science he loved so well. The Life has been written under considerable disadvantages, owing to the illness caused by the biographer's bereavement.
^the
manhood
life
was sacrificed
Redholme, Torquay. March 1914.
CONTENTS
PAQX
"
HENRY FORBES JULIAN " I. BY THE REV. J. O. BEVAN n. BY H. L. SULMAN

CHAPTKR
I.
xiii
xvii
II.
III.
IV.
EARLY LIFE TECHNICAL WORK IN SOUTH AFRICA TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA GERMANY. SCIENTIFIC WORK IN TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA AND EASTERN EUROPE
6
14
28
V.
VI.
ENGLAND AND ITALY

MARRIAGE
40
46
63
VIL
VIII.
PUBLICATION OF WORK ON CYANIDING HOME LIFE AT TORQUAY AND TRAVELS
IN ENGLAND IX. SCIENTIFIC PAPERS AND MEETINGS. VISIT OF CAPTAIN SCOTT X. WITH THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN
XI.
XII.
XIII.
71
81
SOUTH AFRICA THE UNITED STATES REVISITED MEXICO MEXICO (continued)

CALIFORNIA
xi
89
no
141
158
173
XIV.
xii
CHAPTER
CONTENTS
PAGE
XV.
XVI.
XVII.
XVIII.
NEW YORK AND NEW JERSEY CANADIAN TOUR FROM QUEBEC TO VANCOUVER
i8o
192
FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS THE ATLANTIC

VIRGINIA
211
229 238
248
263
XIX.
XX.
XXI.
XXII.
XXIII.
XXIV.
BERMUDA RETURN TO ENGLAND LAST MONTHS AT HOME. LETTERS FROM THE THANIC AND THE CARPATHIA THE FOUNDERING OF THE THANIC SYMPATHY OF THEIR MAJESTIES THE KING AND QUEEN. APPRECIATION
OF FRIENDS
274
283
297
"HENRY FORBES JULIAN"

By the rev.
J.
O.
BEVAN, Rector
of Chillenden
who helped to swell the deathconnection with the disaster to the ^ Titanic^ few will be more missed than the distinguished metallurgical engineer, Henry Forbes
those
roll in
AMONG
Julian, of
Redholme, Torquay, and some
justification
may
one
therefore be found for a short sketch of his life, and an appreciation of his genius and character from
who had
special
opportunities
of
his
information
friendship.
and
was
admitted into
obtaining intimate
begin at the beginning, I may say that it was in of 1880 that I made the acquaintance of the late Mr. William Pengelly, F.R.S. In that year the meeting of the British Association for the Advancement of Science was held at Swansea. In the Anthropological and Geological Sections there a Report was presented by Mr. Pengelly in relation to investigations into the prehistoric remains found in Kent's Cavern. Such reports had been rendered by him, year by year, for a considerable period. Some time afterwards, in 1893, I was introduced to his youngest daughter. Miss Hester Pengelly. That introduction formed the beginning of a friendship which has continued to the present time, owing to the deep appreciation I have been led to
the
To
autumn
xiii
XIV
entertain
"
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
one whose character and accomfor plishments have endeared her to a wide circle of acquaintances. In 1902, in view of her approaching marriage, Miss Hester Pengelly held a reception at her club in London, and it was under those circumstances that I first met Mr. Forbes Julian. Since that day I have enjoyed many opportunities of cementing the friendship thus happily begun. We were accustomed to meet at the annual gatherings of the British Association and at the lectures of the Royal Institution, as well as in the ordinary circles of social life. We proceeded together in the Durham Castle to the British Association meeting in South Africa in 1905, and during the close association which a long sea voyage brings about, the great
capacities for friendship
which Mr. Julian possessed

ideal.
were
fully displayed.
life
His married
literary
was
His wife shared his
and
scientific
tastes,
panied him in his travels in

of professional
and frequently accomAmerica, South Africa,
and elsewhere, when scientific meetings or the exigencies work called him abroad. Those who are acquainted with the community of affection and interest which signalized their life together are not surprised at the tributes that have been rendered to his memory even from the highest in the land, which have tended in some slight measure to comfort and solace his widow in her first hours of loneliness and
sorrow.
The last time I saw Forbes Julian was on March

191 2.
29th,
At
my
invitation
he had attended at the
by Professor Sir Results of the Application of Positive Rays to the Study of Chemical Problems,"
a lecture delivered
J.
Royal Institution
J.
Thomson on "
and at its conclusion he addressed to me a few playful words regarding the reception which he suggested
"
HENRY FORBES JULIAN "
xv
certain chemists
theories advanced
would probably accord to the novel by the distinguished physicist. He

;
then spoke of his intended journey we clasped hands together I uttered a hearty wish for a pleasant time Little did and a speedy return. Thus we parted Not I think that I should never see his face again. long after, whilst travelling in France, I was startled by reading in the public Press of the supreme disaster which had overtaken the most finished and powerful heart misgave illustration of man's handiwork. me, for I was conscious of the possibility of the swallowing up in the sea's dread vortex of at least two of my friends one my first pupil and lifelong correspondent, Mr. Hipkins ; the other, Mr. Julian, whom I had equally been led to admire and to regard vnth unfeigned esteem. Forbes Julian was a metallurgist of no mean order. For many years he had been concerned in the practical application of theory to practice in this most important department of the industrial arts. His name and work were recognized over three continents. His advice and opinions were sought in lands far and widely separated, and were valued because they were felt to be informed by knowledge and experience, and directed by honesty and plain dealing. He was not only admired for his intellectual attainments, his
;
!
My
but high standard of life, his unaffectedness, and his amiability. In social circles I particularly remarked his quiet, restrained, equable manner. He was cheerful and serene, his humour was delightful and contagious. Doubtless after his marriage his character expanded and matured under the gracious influence exercised by her who is left to cherish his memory even as she laments his
practical ability,
his fearlessness as a traveller, his
and
was
also universally
esteemed for
loss.
xvi
"
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
To me to many the world is the poorer for the removal from our midst of Henry Forbes Julian. To me, indeed, it is a heavy blow. I am nearing the term of man's existence. The time is past for the making of new friends, so that I can the less afford to lose those already grappled " as with hooks of steel." Although not conscious of any great capacity for friendship, I have been singularly fortunate through life in the knowledge and intimate relationship of a few choice souls. The number is sadly lessened by this catastrophe ; a link with the past is broken, and the rapid running dovm of the sands of time forbids the utilization of any opportunity of welding together the severed parts. But the sunset of life illuminates the path already trod, and its declining rays gild spaces that have become hallowed ground. Darkness, indeed, comes on apace, but, thank God, there is still sufficient light to enable one to perceive the dim outhnes of the Temple of Life with its various altars consecrated to the friendship of kindred souls. This day I stand before such an altar, I call upon the name of my friend. I thank God for his fellowship in life and his memory in death Such a man must be mourned by all by his col-
leagues, as a
man
of science
by
his intimates, as
;
and philosophic insight an incomparable companion and
of his wedded life, as a part indeed, for a time by unkindly fate, but destined to be reunited, and that for ever.
friend
by the partner
of herself
severed,
J.
O.
BEVAN.
ChILLENDEN fe.ECTORY, Canterbury.
II
"
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

F.I.C.,
"
By H. LIVINGSTONE SULMAN,
Metallurgy
" H. F.
J., a Reminiscence by
M.I.M.M.,
LATE President of the Institution of
Mining and
H. L. 5."
Forbes Julian in 1895 at Johannesburg, where I had been summoned in connection with certain developments in the cyaniding of gold ores. This wonderful metallurgical method, which has meant so much not only to the Witwatersrand but to the world at large, although then but a few years old, had even thus early been brought to a state of high efficiency by a circle of
FIRST met Henry
keen, practical,
metallurgist.
and
scientific
engineers,
whose work
indeed already made Johannesburg the Mecca of the
wherein one was privileged to know such men as Charles Butters, W. R. Feldtman, Andrew Crosse, Irvine Williams, Jennings, and others of a now world-famous confraternity. Amongst these the name of Forbes Julian held a deservedly high place, and in the prosecution of my work I found
It
a
was truly
golden
era,
myself constantly referred to his exhaustive studies in regard to the action of oxidants in cyanidation. It was a keen pleasure to meet in him one whose knowledge of the subject was as profound as his method of imparting it to others was modest and generous.
xvii
xviii
"
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

stress of
''
Although through
work
saw him but
few
times at that period, his pecuHar charm of manner left a lasting impression upon me. business calling me to other countries, it was many years before we met again ; but in the interval Forbes Julian (in collaboration with Edgar Smart) had published the text-book " Cyaniding Gold and Silver
My
in
Ores," which has made his name so widely known ; my opinion it is the best work yet written on a subject which has already inspired so large a number
of technical authors.
at the Mining and Metallurgical Club in that we next forgathered once again with Mr. Charles Butters, whose consulting engineer in England Forbes Julian now was. Thereafter, at luncheon, Forbes Julian, my partner, Mr. H. K. Picard, and I constantly met. appeared naturally to reviewing old gravitate together sometimes theories in the light of experience gained in the inters vening years, but more often discussing the prospects and problems of the present. Here again an unassuming but patient thoroughness was characteristic of Forbes Julian's technical outlook, and infalHbly indicated the reason for the trust reposed in him by one of our most brilliant and successful engineers a man who has little need to rest on the advice of any, but
It
was
London
We
to
whom
that of Forbes Julian was of long-proved
worth.
We met almost daily for some months, except during the week-ends, which he spent at his beloved home in Torquay. His obvious delight in returning there each week has now a deeply pathetic aspect we could not then foresee. Each Monday brought him back to London, always with a fresh note of the charming countryside and home he had left behind. After all too short a period, he told me he would
"
HENRY FORBES JULIAN "
xix
be again leaving England for a while to visit Mr. Butters in California. A few days later the news was flashed back to us that Henry Forbes Julian, together with the other heroes of the R.M.S. Titanic^ had given to the world a last triumphant proof of his calm and
steadfast
manhood.
CHAPTER
EARLY LIFE
Julian of Cork, belonged to one and of those families of mingled Irish Scottish descent whose members have at various times rendered important service both to Church and
FORBES HENRYMaria JULIAN, and
the son of
Henry
State
and
have
a
proved
active
workers
for
the
British Empire.
descent
Jtilien
from
a
Julians could also trace their Huguenot family of the name of

of
The
family
considerable
distinction
which
came from France and
settled in Ireland after the
Revocation of the Edict of Nantes. Leaving their native land for ever, they preferred exile, loss, and the surrender of all for conscience' sake rather than
abjure the Protestant faith. Robert Julian, the great-grandfather of the subject of this Memoir, was appointed Governor of Spike Island. Llis son Thomas married Margaret Forbes, of the Aberdeenshire family well known in Scottish history, and in 1856 their son Henry Julian married Maria Neligan, the daughter of an Irish officer who had served all through the Peninsular War with conspicuous heroism, and had taken part with General Picton's Brigade at Amongst recent members of tlie siege of Badajos. family may be mentioned Canon Neligan of the Bishop Neligan, late of Auckland, New Dublin Zealand Judge Neligan and Miss Dorinda Neligan, a noted hospital nurse in the Franco-German War. She afterwards became head mistress of the Girls'
;
;
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
High School at Croydon, and was one of the pioneers of the movement for the Jiigher education of women
in this country.
Henry JuHan and

city that
his wife spent the early years of
and it was in this beautiful most of their ten children were born, and that their second son, Henry Forbes Julian, first saw the light, his birthday being on May 9th, 1861, which Passing his early in that year fell on Ascension Day. childhood amongst the picturesque and romantic scenery of the South of Ireland, the boy's love of nature early developed into almost a passion, which remained with him throughout his life. In later years and in the course of his extensive travels of many thousand miles, over three continents, the contemplation of the scenic beauties revealed to him afforded keen and unfailing delight. In company with his elder brother Tom, he received
their married life at Cork,
education at a school in their native city, but when he was about eight years of age his parents removed to Bolton, in Lancashire. The change from the mild climate of Cork to the bleak air of the North of England, and to a smoky manufacturing town after residing in a beautiful country district, was most unwelcome to the boy. The tall chimneys of the Lancashire factories and the depressing aspects of the mills and workshops were a poor substitute for the green hills of co. Cork or Kerry, and even at this early age the longing of his heart was to be back again amongst the loughs, mountains, and rivers that he had known and loved so well, and to be once more amidst the simple country people who tilled the soil, harvested the crops, and tended cattle, far from the noise of machinery, the turmoil and din of warehouses and offices, and the high pressure of life in a great commercial centre.
his early
EARLY LIFE
His childhood gave little promise of the latent powers within him and of the capacity for concentration and hard work he was later to display. He is described by those who knew him as a bright, sunnydispositioned boy, with all a true boy's devotion to play, of boundless activity, and exceedingly fond of the country and of outdoor life. In company with his brother Tom, he would spend hours rambling over the country-side and exploring the adjacent moors
and
fens.
In 1870, soon after the family had settled in Bolton, the war between Germany and France broke out, and Mrs. Julian's two unmarried sisters, Dorinda and Annie Neligan, volunteered to nurse the sick and wounded soldiers, under the supervision of a friend of the family, the celebrated surgeon Mr. (afterwards Sir William) MacCormac, Surgeon-in- Chief of the Their letters from the seat of English Ambulance. war to their sister, describing many stirring adventures and interesting incidents in connection with their work within the French and German lines, excited the boy's warmest interest, and may have served greatly to stimulate the hopes he always entertained of future opportunities for foreign travel. These hopes were fully gratified when in later years he became consulting engineer to the German Gold und Silber Scheide-anstalt at Frankfort-on-Main, and in that and other capacities made repeated visits to the Continent. Hereditary influences would probably have inclined
him
to a professional career similar to that which so of his ancestors had followed, either in the Church or the Services, had not his change of en-
many
channels.
vironment tended to direct his energies into other From the beginning of his school life he evinced a decided taste for literature and after
;
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
being for some years at school at Bolton he began to manifest interest in engineering and mechanical pursuits, so that whilst still a youth he commenced taking a practical part in the works his father had
established.
At this period of his career he was in the habit of getting to the works every morning before six o'clock, and there assisting his father and helping to supervise the workmen. Such was his industry, however, that his evenings were given up entirely to reading until nearly midnight. The bent of his mind at this time was towards mechanics, apparently without as yet any thought of the science of metallurgy, which was It was ultimately to become the work of his life. not until a year or two later, when he was at Owens College, Manchester, under the stimulative guidance of Sir Henry Roscoe, that his first love of science was Of the many avenues of research now aroused. opening up to him, he soon determined to select
His spirit was stirred by the desire for attaining with a new enthusiasm scientific knowledge, which increased with his years. It was with no motive of self-advancement, but from devotion to metallurgical research, that he became induced to abandon the literary subjects which had
metallurgy
as his special field.
attracted him in his school- days in favour of this pursuit. Whilst still, however, continuing his mechanical studies, he now threw himself actively into investigations connected with mining and metallurgy, the professor's influence producing a strong and abiding impression on his mind and constituting the
turning-point in his
life.
How
successful
he was in
his studies
is
shown by
the fact that he ultimately became a recognized authority on cyanidation, and the joint-author of the most widely consulted text-book on the subject while
;
EARLY LIFE
his
advice as a technical expert in metallurgical matters was sought for and prized in Germany, South Africa, the United States, Canada, and Mexico. For the time, however, he was engrossed in his studies and making rapid advances. In this manner the early period of boyhood and home life passed by, usefully, if uneventfully, and he stood on the threshold of his career, thoroughly grounded and well equipped for the professional studies that were to lead him far and wide. The succeeding years were to be marked by strenuous labours in distant lands, and by voyages and travels to those foreign countries of which he had dreamed in childhood. The story of this portion of
his
life
and of
his
professional
work
at
home and
abroad will be developed in the succeeding chapters.
CHAPTER II TECHNICAL WORK IN SOUTH AFRICA

was in the year 1886 that Henry Forbes Juhan, was then in his twenty-fifth year, left England for South Africa. He landed at Durban, the largest and most beautiful city in Natal, ready and anxious to try conclusions with Colonial life, and acutely aware of the fact that he had still much more to learn than could be acquired in the laboratories and lecture-theatres of his own country. In South Africa he soon found a fitting field for his energies, and, despite his comparative youth and his inexperience, secured work for himself as a mining engineer at Barberton, Johannesburg, and Kimberley, superintending the shaft-sinking and surface equipment of several mines, and the
IT who
erection and operation of a
number
of crushing-mills
and reduction plants. With this work the chapter of his scientific career may be said to have opened. Gifted with perseverance and the spirit of research, he attained comparatively early in
a
life
to considerable distinction as
mining expert and metallurgist, and although at first very lonely and friendless, his enthusiasm and industry soon brought him the notice and won him the respect of other workers in the same field. It was by his own diligent labours that he obtained
a
his
true
conception
of
metallurgical
principles,
all
knowledge being gained in the hard school of

6
experience.
TECHNICAL WORK IN SOUTH AFRICA
He needed all the support and distraction that constant occupation could give him, for in 1887 he suffered a severe bereavement in the loss of his mother. Although she had been in faiHng health when he left England, her last illness and death was an irreparable blow to him, and had an effect from which even his buoyant nature did not enable him to recover for a considerable period. Like many laborious workers, he owed much to his mother, who was a woman of strong and beautiful character and unfailing He had already lost in her devotion to her children. his brothers Tom and Ernest and also two sisters, and the thought of the loneliness and bereavement of the remainder of his family caused him great uneasiness, and made him long to be at home to comfort and support them in the first months of grief and sorrow. He knew, however, that he could best assist his father by continuing to work assiduously in his new sphere of labour, although the hardships of this early period of his career, far from home and in a strange land, rendered him specially sensitive. Perhaps the most lasting impression one can gather
him at this time is that he was endowed with a deeply affectionate nature. In the few records that remain, family touches are abundant and make up a picture of extreme tenderness, showing how responsive he was to all the influences of generous and kindly affection. Those who are acquainted with the many temptations which beset men's lives in mining camps will realize the strength of purpose and manliness of character which enabled the young metallurgist to
of
pass through them unharmed, and to preserve amongst these strange and distant surroundings the warmth of his love for his relatives at home. quarter of a century ago the South African mines
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
were crowded with adventurers from all parts of the world, who were indulging in golden hopes and
spending their energies often in the vain pursuit of
that shadow sudden wealth. Everywhere men were searching for gold, and the success of the minority stimulated the less fortunate. few made large fortunes, but many were ruined, not being content with the slower and safer profit of other forms of From this struggle for riches there ensued labour. the inevitable loose commercial morality and the accompanying low standard of public and social life, so often characteristic of such communities. But this atmosphere seems never to have affected Forbes From boyhood his course had been marked Julian. by uprightness of purpose and action and devotion to the cause of duty. He was averse to betting and gambling and a total abstainer from alcoholic beverages. Temperance was less common in the eighties than at present, and he had often been warned by friends of the danger of drinking water only, in districts where sanitation was so imperfect. In later years, however, those who had feared for his health as a teetotaller assured him that he owed his immunity to disease in the many malarial districts he visited in different quarters of the globe chiefly to his temperate habits It has been frequently stated that a man's character is best revealed by his behaviour on his travels, as it
then be judged whether his disposition remains same when the restraints of public opinion and force of habit are removed. It will be seen that young metallurgist never drifted with the prevailing current when he broke ground for himself in a fresh country. He was always true to his best
can the the the
nature.
His
earliest
work was
at
Barberton,
which had
recently been opened up as a mining centre, for it was in 1886 the year of Forbes Julian's arrival in South Africa ^that the discovery had been made of the Sheba Mine there. This is said to have been found quite accidentally by a prospector v^ho, after several months of unsuccessful search, seated himself idly
one day on a piece of rock near the footpath which he and his comrades had worn in their walks between A their huts and the area they were prospecting. chance blow from his hammer struck off a piece of the rock, which at once attracted his attention and concentrated all his energies on the locality. He had, in fact, discovered the famous gold-mine, the rich yield from which was afterwards quite phenomenal. This at once created a fever of excitement in South Africa. A rush was made to Barberton, men flocking there in hot haste from all parts of the world, although many were entirely without experience of the mining industry. Early in 1887 it is stated that there were between The five and ten thousand people in the district. grew into an important towncollection of huts soon The natural ship, with hotels and public buildings. for wealth was wild consequence of this scramble doubtful companies were rapidly floated speculation and unscrupulous operations led to the inevitable reaction and collapse, distrust becoming widely prevalent. Almost immediately afterwards the steady development of the far richer Witwatersrand reefs made that area the centre of attraction and turned thither the
;
tide of gold-seekers.
The neighbourhood
of Barberton
was at
first
very
unhealthy. Even when sanitary methods improved, malaria still lurked in the low-lying areas along the The climate was also extremely trying river-banks. in summer to those coming direct from England, but
10
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
Forbes Julian does not appear to have been seriously by this or any of the other disadvantages he encountered. The situation of the little town nestling under the shelter of the Kaapsche Berg greatly attracted him. The locality is remarkably picturesque and embraces an extensive viev^ of the De Kaap Valley, whilst shady creeks of rare beauty abound clothed with tree-fern, eucalyptus, cactus, aloe, and many other subtropical plants and trees. In the year 1887 he left Barberton, and with his colleague, Mr. Wanliss, who was then acting with him as consulting engineer to the Johannesburg Pioneer Company, erected a small plant to treat blanketings from the company's first stamp mill. A process was worked out by which the gold could be dissolved out of the ore and precipitated without separating the solution. An account of this in his own words shows that it involved the use of "an amalgamation barrel, a receiver for the treated ore, and an amalgamated copper plate with mercury wells. The gold extracted by this little plant amounted to about ninety ounces per month. " The assays showed that a considerable amount
affected
.
still remained undissolved in the tailings, and was found impracticable to get anything like complete precipitation of the dissolved gold in the time allowed. A longer treatment might have been given and a better extraction obtained, but that meant a decreased output of gold, which is a serious item to a small struggling company just beginning operations. " A much more perfect plant was erected at the Roodepoort United Main Reef Company's mill in
of gold
it
1888."
^ " Cyaniding Gold and Silver Ores," by H. Forbes Julian and Edgar Smart, pp. 3 and 4. London Charles Griffin and Co. Ltd.
:

It
is
ii
interesting to notice that at the
same time
that this small plant, erected by Forbes Julian and Mr. Wanliss, was being used by the Pioneer Company, other workers in the same branch of science Mr. J. S.
MacArthur, Mr. R. W. Forrest, and Mr. W. Forrestwere experimenting in Scotland with samples of gold ore. They applied in October 1887 for a patent, based on similar principles, in Great Britain for " the purpose of extracting gold and silver from ores by dissolving out the metals with a solution containing cyanogen or a cyanide." Their work lent to the gold-mining industry valuable assistance, which has since been greatly appreciated by all mining engineers and metallurgists, and their names will always be connected with the successful working out of the
cyanide process. During the years 1888 and 1889 Forbes Julian was busily engaged on fresh researches in connection with the dissolution of gold in ores, by chlorine and also by cyanide, under high pressure, with subsequent precipitation by an electric current and by sodium
amalgam.
This work resulted in some applications South Africa. For oxidized ores the dissolution of the gold by chlorine under pressure of air and precipitation by sodium amalgam was as perfect as could be desired in fact, some blanketings containing 34 oz. per ton had only about 7 dwt. left
for patents in
;
The
in the residue, equivalent to a 99 per cent, extraction. fine gold was dissolved and re-precipitated, while
when
the coarse gold was made easily amalgamable. But pyritic ore was being dealt with, it was found that the solution of the gold became impracticable
without an excessive consumption of chlorine, and it was necessary again to revert to the use of cyanide
as a solvent,
while in order to precipitate the dissolved metals an electric current was employed, the anode

HENRY FORBES JULIAN
12
A number
burg and
being iron or lead peroxide, and the cathode mercury. of experiments were carried on at Johannes-
Kimberley in 1888-89 embodying these and dealing with ton lots at a time. In the midst of these investigations recreation and diversion were to be found in the pursuit of big game for Forbes Julian was a good shot and in travelling through the native districts, which were at that time somewhat unsettled and dangerous to visit. He explored many places where but few white men had previously penetrated in the Barotse district and the Upper Zambesi Basin, frequently journeying on foot or being jolted in ox- wagons or cramped in canoes. Although somewhat shy and diffident, he was fond of congenial companionship, and as he became better acquainted with his environment his amiability and unaffectedness won him popularity with many of the rough but well-meaning comrades by whom he was
latter ideas
surrounded, whilst his force of character gained their

respect.
with
few loyal and lasting friendships mining and scientific world friendships to be severed only by death. Mr. H. L. Sulman, who first knew him in the
also
He
formed
men eminent
in the
Transvaal, writes
"...
selves
;
His sterling qualities gradually asserted themhis modesty, patience, thoroughness, and his
sight,
broad yet clear
marked him
as
exceptional
among many more apparently

was
a quiet
There magnetism of personality he unconsciously

brilliant
men.
exerted, so unconsciously that we only now realize by missing it. know that he met death with
We
clear,
calm
vision, just as
he looked
at other
problems
unflinchingly.
..."
Butters, another mining friend of the whom he was destined
Mr. Charles
early
South African days, with

:
13
in future years to have much intercourse and correspondence, writing from California, says " His memory will always be an inspiration to me. We always think of him first as a gentleman because of his gentleness, sweetness of disposition, extreme modesty and consideration for others, never being These are the willing to hurt anyone's feelings. qualities that are first in man, and they are the qualities which one always remembers, but when added to such a brilliant intellect and well-stored mind it only
makes them doubly precious." Another fellow-worker in the same

activity describes
field of scientific
but most modest " His untiring energy comrade, and goes on to say and enthusiasm helped everyone who had the good fortune to come in contact with him, and his personal high standard of life won the admiration of all." His colleague, Mr. Edgar Smart, writes from the Transvaal *' In the early days Mr. Julian was consulting engineer to the Johannesburg Pioneer General Mining Company. I first knew him in Kimberley in 1889. He, however, seldom talked of himself, and scarcely ever
as a brilliant
:
him
on
business, his technical matters.
interests
.
. .
lying
in
scientific
His kindness to
my
wife,
. ,
and and
."
to me, will never be forgotten
by
either of us.
CHAPTER
is,
III
TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA

perhaps, only those who, having visited Africa in the early days of mining enterprise and development, have themselves experienced it w^ho can realize the sense of loneHness so often felt by British settlers and the utter lack of many of the requirements regarded at home as almost Added to this, the proindispensable to social life. fessional man of those days was confronted with almost
IT South
his energies and deriving advantage from such opportunities as might from time to time present themselves. Hence the need for hopefulness and patience, and
ceaseless
toil,
which monopolized
prevented
his
hence, likewise, it arose that, although his courage and perseverance secured to Forbes Julian opportunities for a wider sphere of activity and advancement in circumstances he could neither influence nor life, control prevented his deriving benefit from them
when they came. Like so many men

rialist,
of British race
who
a
are resident
in the Colonies, Forbes Julian
was
staunch Impe-
and in his travels in the Barotse district and in the Upper Zambesi Basin he was impressed, as a pioneer of Empire, by the position of these districts, within easy reach of British South Africa. Enjoying a fertile soil, full of natural resources, and having many fine waterways, it seemed strange to him that these regions had been so long neglected. Becoming convinced that there were great openings
14

for British trade
15
and
industries in these forest regions
he secured, by dint of patience and perseverance and after many hardships and adventures, certain valuable rights and concessions from the native chiefs for the development of these fertile lands and their opening up to British com-
and
plains of Central Africa,
merce.
South and Central Africa in the
eighties offered a
fine field not only to the metallurgist but also to the Forbes Julian, who was an traveller and pioneer. traveller and a keen observer, traversed enthusiastic large tracts of country which had only recently become
With companions from Kimberley he but on arriving visited King Khama's territory dire disappointment. The there they were met by a king informed them that they could not in safety
accessible.
;
that proceed further with their wagons and oxen he was responsible for their lives to the great White Queen, and that he would not sell them any oxen for proceeding on the journey which had been contemplated, as further travel would be extremely danThe other members of the party were finally gerous. constrained to remain in Khama's territory, to rest themselves and their cattle, and be content with the journey already accomplished. Not so Forbes Julian, who had that quiet energy of temperament which generally enabled him to achieve what he had undertaken, and was not easily discouraged by difiiculties, even though they might appear insurmountable to Being determined to push on alone, he accomothers. plished a visit to the native chief or King Lewanika,
;
and other native
chieftains,
and had the
satisfaction
of reaching the Falls of the Zambesi.
These impressive Falls, which were then but little known, are twice as broad and more than twice as high as those of Niagara. The immense volume of
i6
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
water Is precipitated into a deep narrow fissure, from which there is but one small outlet to the chasm. This has been appropriately named the " Boiling Pot " by Europeans and the " Thunder Mist " by
the natives. To those who have never beheld it the beauty and splendour of the scene are indescribable and inconIndeed it is impossible to comprehend the ceivable.
wonderful spectacle in a single visit. The traveller stayed some time studying the Falls from several different points of view, and became increasingly fascinated by their grandeur and sublimity.
The first impression of these wonders of nature constituted one of those epochs in life which could never be forgotten by one whose love of fine natural scenery was so strong, and he felt stirred to the greatest enthusiasm. The view of the Victoria Falls and the poetic beauty of the " rain forest " and Zambesi Valley more than repaid him for the perils of the way, which had been neither few nor slight. The necessity of having to walk the last few hundred miles with black men as his baggage-carriers and only companions rendered the exploit extremely hazardous and more daring than wise. This will be gathered from the fact that when on the return journey he was prostrated by fever, he discovered that the natives had begun discussing the chances of his death, and questioning amongst themselves whether they should not at once put him out of the way. Having always been careful to treat them humanely and justly, he had hitherto experienced no difficulty in their management, but with the helplessness of illness his influence over them
white man was endangered. He had picked up good deal of their language, and was thus able speedily to gather from their excited talk and violent looks
as a

The
17
and gestures that they were plotting against his life. situation was serious, for he felt convinced that they intended to murder him, and the truth flashed upon him that he must instantly demonstrate his ability to defend himself, which was probably in doubt. Rising up and taking his rifle with him, he aimed at a distant object, striking it immediately, as he was, fortunately, an excellent shot. The effect was remarkThe carriers looked at him with astonishment, able.
followed his movements intently, and, perceiving that he had apparently recovered, gave him no further
trouble.
The
able to
safety
attack of fever gradually subsided,
and he was
recommence his march and the other members of his party
rejoin in perfect
in
territory, full of thankfulness for his preservation
King Khama's from
danger and well satisfied with the results of his exciting " He always seemed incapable of fear," journey. wrote one who knew him intimately. On the way back to Kimberley with his companions other troubles assailed them, and the forces of nature seemed arrayed against the party. Some of the rivers were in flood, and they had to make repeated halts. The difficulties presented by these swollen streams where the wagons sank so deeply, and by the miry banks where the oxen could scarcely stir them, will be realized by all who have travelled in these districts. On one occasion their wagons overturned while fording the waters, and several almost indispensable possessions were lost. By strenuous exertions and at great personal risk he was, however, able to recover some valuable papers, to secure which had been the main object of his long and arduous journey, for, in spite of many obstacles on this expedition, he had acquired certain concessions in the Barotse district. This district is frequently alluded to as the Barotse
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
Empire. Forbes Julian uses this expression, and that eminent ethnologist Dr. A. C. Haddon speaks of the " Barotse Empire " in his Address to the Anthro-
Town
pological Section of the British Association at Cape in 1905. It was not merely a province, but
was looked upon
as an empire by the Portuguese, Lewanika's authority being recognized by several tribes. His intelligence enabled him to desire education and civilization for his people, and the increase
of
commerce and
industry.
The
result of Forbes Julian's negotiations

is
occasion
dealt with in the following

of
from a well-known firm appended his own report.
on this communication solicitors, to which is
To
the
Rt. Hon.
Lord Knutsford,
for the Colonies
Secretary of State
KiMBERLEY,
South Africa, 6th July, im^.

Lord, I have the honour to communicate with your Lordship with reference to the regions in the Upper Zambesi
Basin.
My
From the latest English newspapers received here it appears that considerable attention has lately been directed in England to the question of the rights over and to territories of independent native chiefs situate beyond British Bechuanaland. I am instructed by Mr. Henry Forbes Julian to inform your Lordship that he has acquired considerable and valuable rights and concessions over the Barotse Empire, some particulars
concerning which are
set forth in
randum prepared by Mr. Julian and Barotse Empire Past and Present.'*
I also
the accompanying Memoentitled " Notes on the
rivers, position of provinces, &c., in
enclose a sketch-plan showing the principal navigable the Barotse Empire. Your Lordship will observe from the general remarks contained in the " Notes " that it is Mr. JuHan's intention shortly

to enter into negotiations with the view of opening
19
up and
developing the country of the Barotse tribes. In view of the discussions presently taking place in England regarding Central Africa, Mr. Julian has deemed it advisable that your Lordship and Her Majesty's Government should be made acquainted with the true position of affairs so far as the Barotse Empire is concerned, in order that the English Government, in dealing with the important question of Central Africa, may be in a position to know how matters stand. Should your Lordship deem it advisable in the interest of the British nation that any further information be supplied to you, I shall be prepared to furnish further particulars. As matters progress I shall probably again have the honour of communicating with your Lordship. Your Lordship might kindly give instructions that the word " Confidential " be endorsed on the envelope of any letters addressed to me with reference to this matter. All communications connected with this matter will be considered by your Lordship as being confidential, and it is understood that the information furnished will only be used
for
Government purposes.
I
have the honour to be, My Lord, Your obedient servant,

J.
Dunoon Duncan.
NOTES ON THE BAROTSE EMPIRE RELATIVE TO

ITS
COMMERCIAL DEVELOPMENT By henry FORBES JULIAN

S.
The
and 11
Barotse
S.
General Features of the Country Empire is situated between parallels 19
and is from 19 E. to 30 E. of Greenwich. It is bounded on the north by the watershed dividing the Zambesi and Congo River systems on the north-west by the Kasai River and the watershed dividing the Zambesi and Quanza River systems on the west by the River Kwando ; on the south by the Rivers Kwando and Zambesi on the cast the boundary is undefined, but the Chief Lewanika
;
;
maintains that his territory extends to the River
Loangwa
20
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
all chiefs to that point. Zumbo is considered outside the territory, but the towns Maashi, on the west side of River Kwando, and Kalende, on the north bank of the River Kasai, belong to the Barotse chief. The provinces are eleven in number, viz. Mamboii, Mambunda, Macei, Barotse, Masubia, Matutala, Makuangua,
and demands tribute of
Mankoia, Mashikulumbi, Matoka, Mashapatan. The area is, roughly, about 280,000 square miles, and the mean elevation is about 3000 ft. above sea-level. There are very extensive plateaus or elevations of 2300 to 4500 ft. above sea-level which have salubrious climates, while the valleys and low-lying parts are malarial during portions of the year. Considering the tropical position of the country, it is on the whole remarkably healthy, large portions of it being well adapted for Europeans. The population is very much denser than any part south of the Zambesi, and in many places is simply teeming, but figures can only approximate. However, placing it at a very low estimate of twenty-two to the square mile, this would
me-an a population of 6,160,000. The country contains a magnificent network of waterways equal to any natural system in the world, both for purposes of navigation and irrigation. The Zambesi and its tributaries furnish over two thousand miles that are navigated at present by the natives, and can be used for commercial purposes. During a portion of the year canoes and flat-bottomed boats can pass from the Zambesi to the Kasai, a tributary of the Congo, and thence nearly eight hundred miles through a thickly populated country within the limits of the Congo free trade area.
Products
products of the country, valuable to Europeans, are too numerous to mention, but a few of the most important, which are readily obtainable in great quantities, are as follows
:
The
Vegetable Products
India-rubber.
natives
Caoutchouc of four kinds

:
is
known
to the
and taken to the coast
for exportation.
Dyes of various kinds are known brehilla weed is very abundant, indigo is also cultivated in many places, and some red and yellow colours are to be had in great quantities.

is
21
arts,
to be
Guano of various had for very
kinds, useful in agriculture

little
and the
trouble.
Oils are obtained from several cultivated plants and trees and carried to the coast for shipment to Europe. Cotton is very extensively grown and may be obtained in great quantities. It is long-stapled with a strong fibre. Cottoncloth is manufactured by the natives in a small way. Fibres of great length and strength are very abundant, and are largely made into cords and ropes by the natives.
Timber.
taining
parts of the country.
Extensive forests of valuable timber are in all Some are many miles in extent, convegetable ivory, palms, ebony, lignum-vitas, and
quantities of beautiful varieties of
immense
mahogany and
*
rosewood, and hard woods unknown in European markets.
Animal Products
Ivory.
Elephants* tusks are bought from the king by As the king monopolizes all elephants' traders and exported. tusks and his people are not allowed to trade in them, the destruction of elephants is very small, about 5000 to 7000 lb. of ivory being the quantity sold annually. The ivory of the hippopotamus, wild boar, rhinoceros, and crocodile teeth have not as yet been traded in, but can be obtained in great quantities. Furs and skins of wild animals are to be had in large numbers, and a very profitable trade has been done in this line for many
years.
Feathers. Marabou may be had in limited quantities. Ostrich wild-bird feathers are obtained from an adjoining territory. Bees'-wax is very abundant and is sent to the coast for exportation.
Mineral Products
Gold exists in alluvial form and in reefs or lodes. About last century large quantities of gold were obtained by one tribe of natives from alluvial deposits, from various parts of the country. They sold it to the Jesuits and Arabs A brisk trade was done for a time, but a of the east coast. war broke out which almost exterminated this tribe and caused the industry to cease. The old workings are still discernible, but no tribe has learned the art of washing the
the end of
alluvium,
22
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

many
places,
Auriferous quartz reefs exist in value is unknown.

Silver
is
but tkeir
abundant and
is
found in
a great variety of minerals.
Some
large deposits of argentiferous copper-ore are wôrked
and smelted by the natives. The metal extracted, which is an alloy, is made into ornaments. Argentiferous galena exists in abundance, and native silver is sometimes found and melted into ornaments. Cinnabar (sulphide of mercury) is found in a very pure state. It is quarried by the natives, and on account of its brilliancy of colour is used, mixed with fat, as a dye for the hair. tinstone is said to exist, but has not been made use of. Some ornamental and beautifully coloured Precious Stones. stones are found and prized by the natives, but whether valuable Diamonds are said to exist in an adjoining or not is unknown.
territory.
The Natives The population consists of eleven tribes, each Some are noted as iron its own characteristics.
makers
of
of
which has smelters and
and agricultural implements. Others and makers of ornaments. Several tribes are famed as wood-workers and makers of canoes, while others excel as river men, being able to navigate dangerous rapids with great skill. All are born traders, and are often known to travel hundreds of miles to trade with a few pounds As agriculturists they are famous and of salt and cured fish.
are smelters
of copper
weapons
are highly skilled in the art of irrigation, often
damming up
high streams and conducting the water for miles by channels to fertilize the lands. In intelligence they are vastly superior to any tribe south of the Zambesi, but (like all native tribes in an uncivilized state) they have little foresight and cannot realize the wealth that might be made by energy properly directed, the subject of supply and demand being quite beyond their comprehension. However, all tribes are excellent labourers, very willing and obedient, and glad of the opportunity to work for wages, which are as a rule paid in and represented by calico and their food for one month's work. In their own way they are quiet and industrious, ever making some article of use or ornament, such as hoes, knives, assegais, copper and ivory bangles, rude stone and woodwork of great variety, and excellent baskets and mats, many other articles

being
Food-stuffs are
23
made which show both skill and taste. Cotton-spinning and weaving are also carried on to a limited extent.
grown
in
immense
quantities
maize,
millet,
dhura corn, &c. Cattle, sheep, and goats are also bred largely by most of the tribes. Each tribe makes an annual tribute to the Chief Lewanika consisting (amongst other things) of articles of their own manufacture and sheep, furs, skins, &c. All ivory at present obtained is esteemed to be the king's own and forms the chief part of his revenue. With the articles of tribute and the ivory the chief buys such goods as cotton and woollen cloth, &c., the greater part of which he generally divides among the headmen and councillors. Speaking generally, the natives of the Barotse Empire have qualifications which would constitute them a strong, thriving people, if only their abilities were trained to flow in a proper
channel.
Commercial Development
to the country being situated at a great distance from the coast and the difficulties to be encountered in travelling overland, it may be said to lie outside the reach of the ordinary
Owing
individual trader.
Occasionally a half-caste or native trader
comes from the east or west coast to exchange various cloths and beads for ivory, but the only real trading which has been done has been by a few traders who have sent wagons of goods from the South by the Katuchara desert route, a long and
The amount of trade that could be effected approach under the present circumstances must of necessity be very limited, owing to the fact that articles of exchange must be of first-class order (such as feathers, furs, &c.) to pay for the heavy expense of transport. This class can only be obtained in limited quantities, but the trade that could be done in a lower class of goods, such as cotton, indiarubber, timber, guano, oils, dyes, minerals, &c., in exchange for manufactured articles of civilization is practically unlimited. To carry on this profitably, it is absolutely necessary that some cheaper and more rapid mode of communication with the coast be obtained than the route in the southern parts. The distance from the main stream of the Zambesi to the west coast is about six to seven hundred miles, over a country with many natural facilities of approach which could be made
tedious journey.
by
this
24
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
easy to travel. There would be no difficulty In arranging with the Portuguese for a port on the west coast as an exit and entrance, and in establishing a number of stations for trading on the navigable streams and in places easy of access, which should be within easy communication with one or more central stations to receive goods from the coast and to dispatch those of exchange. If this were carried out with good distributive organization, a large and lucrative trade would be rapidly established, ever increasing with the success of the undertaking.
At the same time Forbes Julian drew up a carefully compiled paper dealing with the possible amount of trade during the first few years and the probable average quantities of some of the chief articles to be obtained. This was also dispatched to the Secretary
of State for the Colonies.
It was discouraging to find that this correspondence with Downing Street produced no result. It was felt, however, by his friends that this journey earned for
him the distinction
of assisting in organizing the way for the developments afterwards achieved in these districts. The Imperial side of the work had appealed forcibly to him, as it does always to those pioneers who are alive to any great advantages to be gained for the Empire this vast inheritance committed to our charge and amongst those who have essayed this
task his
name
is
therefore enrolled.
Rhodes also obtained similar concessions throughout the same districts, and was able to utilize these advantages in a manner that had been impossible to the young and unknown metallurgist. Fortunately, a cheerful, well-balanced mind prevented him from dwelling on this disappointment. Through his ancestry he had that invaluable inheritance of the Scot,
Cecil
the faculty of hard work, so at this juncture he turned his mind all the more resolutely to technical labours. Perils hy field and flood and the dangers of death

wêre not the only risks that confronted
25
from fever or by the treacherous hands of natives
him
at this
returning from Kimberley to the neighbourhood of Johannesburg, he found that there W2is great fear of famine on the Rand. He was again engaged wîth metallurgical wôrk, but (as vîll be readily understood) many difficulties attended the labours of engineers during the early days of goldmining in the Transvaal. From the very commencement the scarcity of native labour had been keenly felt. Until August 1892 there vâs no raiWay communication vîth the coast, and consequently all machinery and supplies had to be conveyed by oxen or mules, a mode of transport v^hich wâs both tedious and expensive. The question of food-supply wâs most pressing, for in the autumn of 1889 the dwellers on the Witwatersrand were menaced by famine unless special efforts succeeded in the augmentation of existing supplies. It is estimated that the population then
time.
forty thousand persons, of whom twenty- five thousand were white people and the remaining fifteen thousand were natives. The Government offered a bonus of ^20 each to those who reached Johannesburg with the first two hundred and fifty wagons of food from beyond the Transvaal border. By this means, and by the aid and co-operation of the Natal Government, the crisis was averted. The writer of an article in the Rand Daily Mail of Johannesburg for April 23rd, 191 2, alludes in the following terms to the metallurgist's early labours in
On
amounted to about
South Africa
Mr. Julian played a very important part in the opening of the gold industry, as in 1888-9 he introduced the Julian patent process for the recovery of gold from accumulated tailings. He built his plant at Tarry's yard in Kimberley, and it says much for his energy, jis his huge tanks had to be
26
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
He subseconveyed to Johannesburg by wagon transport. quently served as battery manager to the Salisbury Company and the Wemmer Company, but his mind and attention were always devoted towards some new invention for the benefit
of the industry.
The working methods of the first stage of the goldmining industry on the Rand were based on the oldestablished lines of amalgamation and concentration. In the years 1890 and 1891, however, the gold-mining industry entered on what has been termed the second stage of its development by the introduction of the " It was cyanide process. As Forbes Julian writes erected at not until the year 1891, when a plant was the Robinson Gold Mining Company to treat tailings by the MacArthur-Forrest process, that the treatment of ore by cyanide had crystallized into a form acceptFrom that time it may be able to the mining world. process, which has proved such said that the cyanide a phenomenal success, dates " (" Cyaniding Gold and
:
Silver Ores," p. 6).
great contribution that the mining engineers of Johannesburg have made to the world's industrial advancement is the successful application of the
The
cyanide process, metallurgy in South Africa being Although the mining practically covered by it. there are largely applications of prinmethods used ciples practised in Australia and the United States, still in metallurgy the pioneers of the industry took
up a process which in America had been and almost abandoned.
discredited
The rapid development of the riches of the Rand forms a remarkable epoch in the mining history of the world. The vast natural wealth attracted men from all quarters of the globe, and a great cosmopolitan community very speedily settled in the Transvaal.

During the years 1890 and 1891
cyanide solvents, making
interested himself in the application of
27
Forbes Julian
oxidizers to
many experiments on
the
use of air blown through working solutions, the addition of more energetic oxidizing agents for He found facilitating the dissolution of gold in ores. that the results obtained were very encouraging, and in February 1892 protected his application of the use of air blown through the solution and of the more energetic oxidizing agents for this purpose by his Transvaal Patent No. 335. He continued experimenting with a large number of organic and inorganic oxidizers, the results obtained being best given in
his
and on
own words
It
was found that many are undesirable owing to their forming soluble compounds that increase the density of the solutions, and in some cases forming complexes with the cyanide of no value in the process. This increase of density has generally the effect of decreasing the solubility of the metal, by offering
greater resistance to the diffusion of the dissolved oxygen molecules. It is therefore advisable, when employing oxidizers, to select one that introduces
"
only oxygen or oxygen and water " {op. city p. 79). Having now spent several years in South Africa, he determined in the spring of 1893 to take a holiday and visit his relatives in England ; and the time passed with his father and sisters at their home in Lancashire was naturally a very happy period.
SCIENlÎFIC IN NORTH
CHAPTER IV WORK IN GERMANY AND TRA\^LS

AMERICA AND EASTERN EUROPE
in
WHILST
visited
Europe
in
1893
Germany and
Austria,
Forbes Julian having
accepted the important post offered to
him
of Technical Adviser to the
German Gold und
His seven years of absence from Europe had embraced a period of strenuous endeavour, of long journeys by land and sea, and several exciting experiences. Feeling, however, that his metallurgical vôrk needed confirmation and elucidation from experience in other mining centres, he determined during the summer of the same year to prolong his holiday by crossing the Atlantic and visiting North America. Landing in New York, he journeyed across the continent to San Francisco, visiting Chicago, Salt Lake City, and several other important places on the way, and gathering at the mining camps all the information that he could pick up. The United States offered in this respect a splendid field for observation in connection with his work. The tour was entirely successful in its leading object, but, keenly as he entered into the importance of these prof essional studies, the journey was chiefly memorable on account of the great enjoyment he derived from the beautiful localities visited. Not only the luxuriant vegetation of California, but also the magnificent scenery of the Rocky Mountains and
Silber
Scheide-anstalt,
at
Frankfort-on-Main.
'
28
SCIENTIFIC
WORK
IN GERMANY, ETC.
29
of the Great Lakes, aroused in him the warmest enthusiasm, as he viewed the precipitous heights and deep canons of the Rockies and rambled on the beautiful banks and amongst the islands of the Lakes. He was also greatly impressed by the Hudson River with its noble colonnades of basalt, named the " Pali-
sades."
Before leaving the American continent he made a tour over the Canadian border, delighting in the fine scenery, and interested in all he saw of the new cities being called into existence by British energy and perseverance. The Falls of Niagara were visited keenly before concluding the journey. He was impressed by their magnificence, and considered them grander, though less beautiful, than the Falls of the Zambesi, which he had explored a few years
earlier.
During these
travels
Forbes Julian studied with
close attention the political
and
social conditions in
the United States. He returned to Europe during the autumn for a brief visit to his family in England preparatory to his return to South Africa. The long course of metallurgical work in the Transvaal had enabled him to appreciate the significance of all that had been seen in the American mining camps, and had greatly stimulated his scientific proclivities. The year 1 893 was busy and eventful, for, in addition to the journeys undertaken in Europe and America, he conducted experiments on a large scale for the Frankfort Gold und Silber Scheide-anstalt in South Africa at the Rand Central Ore Reduction Company's works in connection with the precipitation of the gold from cyanide solutions. He continued to be closely engaged in metallurgical work, and in the following year, 1894, took out a
30
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
patent in the Transvaal for the use of cathodes made of those employed in galvano-plastic work. To use his own words
on the principle
The cathode consisted of metallic or other surface, coated with a conducting substance. Thus iron coated with plumbago or waxed conducting substances were tried, the great advantage being that the bullion could be stripped off the cathodes and melted into bars without being contaminated with base metals. With rich solutions the process worked well, but when poor in bullion it became difficult to get a film deposited evenly, so that the effective electrode surface was diminished. Another cathode on the same principle was employed, which consisted of cotton or other fibrous threads or woven material, rendered conducting by one of the wellknown methods. These passed over rollers up and down a number of times through each compartment of the precipitating box, using lead peroxide anodes. These threads were continuous in long lengths, and to remove the deposited metal they were drawn between rollers at the head of the box and cut off. A great advantage of this method is that a clean-up could be conducted very often, with only a short stoppage and further, that the bullion obtained is not necessarily contaminated with other metals, as the bullion-covered threads have only to be smelted with borax and an oxidizing agent (" Cyaniding Gold and Silver Ores," p. 149).
In July 1894 he again set sail for Europe, leaving Town by the mail steamer Scot, of the Union Line, and after a short visit to England took up his residence for some months at Frankfort-on-Main. The scene of his labours thus frequently changed from South Africa to Europe. In 1895 a process patented by Johannes Pfleger was for a short time in use on a working scale in the Transvaal. Forbes Julian developed this process and worked it for three months on a full experimental scale on
Cape
behalf of the
Frankfort Gold
und
Silber
Scheide-
anstalt, obtaining
remarkably good and uniform results. His work in the Transvaal was carried on in sympathy
SCIENTIFIC
WORK
IN
GERMANY, ETC.
31
and co-operation with his German friends Herr Hugo Andreae and Herr Friedrich Stockhausen. The Christmas of 1894 was spent at Frankfort, and he greatly enjoyed the Yuletide season there and the spirit of happy rejoicing with which the holy festival is always celebrated throughout Germany. Part of the following year was also spent at Frankfort, and in addition to South African journeyings his love of travel found vent in a long expedition which included Austria, Hungary, Transylvania, Roumania, and the
borders of Russia.
was shown great kindness in Germany and Austria by many of the metallurgists, chemists, and physicists of Frankfort, Berlin, and Vienna. His short sojourn in the Austrian capital was a period of most pleasant relaxation and enjoyment. His growing fame as a mining expert brought him into personal contact with many foreign scientists, and this was in every way advantageous to him, as in some cases the acquaintance ripened into friendship which grew stronger with recurring intercourse. This helped to broaden his views and strengthen his hold upon the scientific activity of his time, keeping him in touch with the foremost workers in more than one great branch of science, men who were constantly in the forefront of the endeavour of the age. At this period he laboured with energy at metallurgical problems, and, being endowed naturally with many of the essential characteristics of a genuine scientific worker, began to take an important place in the mining world. Accuracy and scrupulous regard for truth gave special value to his researches and to the carefully considered conclusions which he formed from them. Received everywhere with friendliness and hospitahty, he was enabled not only to study metallurgical
He
32
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

of
he spent
circle
problems, but also political and social questions, and many pleasant hours in the inner domestic
German
families
with
whom
he became
Such friendly intercourse with foreign intimate. ways of life, in addition to the insight already gained into habits of thought in South Africa, and the views current in the great cities of the West, widened his sympathy for men and things abroad, and kept him from the insularity of outlook of which British
people are sometimes accused. To the great kindness and consideration shown by scientific colleagues and personal friends a piquant contrast was afforded by the overbearing manners of some officers in the army, which amounted to positive rudeness amongst a few of the younger military men. Displays of this state of feeling were witnessed by him not infrequently. On one occasion when having refreshments at a restaurant he happened to be sitting Three young officers entered shortly afteralone. wards and sat down at a table near him, at which a powerful, athletic-looking young man was already seated, the latter being dressed like an Englishman, but having the free-and-easy bearing which suggests The officers eyed him intently, a Colonial origin. and when he gave an order to the waiter in very poor German with a strong English accent all three burst into loud laughter. The young man's attention was concentrated on the waiter, from whom he was making inquiries about the locality. Seeing his head turned away from them, one of the trio knocked off the table a pair of gloves belonging to the stranger and lying by his plate. The latter turned round the moment afterwards, saw what had happened, and with rising colour, but without making any comment, stooped and picked up the gloves. The next time he gave an order the same thing was repeated. Forbes
SCIENTIFIC
WORK
IN GERMANY, ETC.
33
Julian immediately crossed to the table, seated himself beside the young Colonial, and asked in English if he
assist him, not choosing to see a fellow British subject insulted. The stranger thanked him, and with great self-control, after again picking up the gloves, said quietly to the offender, " If that happens again I shall put you all three outside the door."
could
Possibly the officers were slightly ashamed, perhaps they were overawed by the size and sinews of the
young
officer
giant, or probably the appearance of his
com-
patriot at the table turned the scale.
The
offending
immediately apologized, saying he would not have played this practical joke if he had known it was an Englishman he was annoying, and the trio soon afterwards left the restaurant. " You kept your temper admirably," said Forbes " Oh," replied the other, laughing goodJulian. humour edly, " I never like to be unpleasant, but I wished them to know they must not go too far." After a couple of hours spent chatting together, the stranger mentioned that he had only a short time for a tour in Europe and was leaving Germany in a day or two, and they exchanged cards before parting. Forbes Julian was amused to read on the one presented , of Australia, Champion to him, " Mr. Boxer," and almost regretted that his new acquaintance had not taken the opportunity of showing his
,
skiU.
another occasion he had gone one evening with and not being specially fond of dancing, was standing chatting with some acquaintance when their attention was directed to a lady who was dancing very gracefully with her son. The husband, a wealthy American business man, joined them, and soon commenced a conversation in English. An officer, who was apparently Master of Ceremonies
friends to a public ball,
On
34
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
or a steward, now appeared, and, taking an unoccupied chair close by, began talking to them both in a patronizing manner, to their great amusement. All went well until the American lady and her son came to
join them.
that
place
At these dances there was young people under sixteen years
a regulation
of age
were
not admitted.
:
The
following conversation then took
" That boy is too young to be here ; he must go out at once," said the officer to the mother. " Oh no he is not too young," she answered ; " he
!
is
just sixteen."
" That's a
lie," replied
the officer in a loud tone
which could be heard all over the room. Those who are acquainted with the high estimation in which Americans hold women will not be surprised that for this speech the officer found himself knocked off his chair, out of hand, by the enraged husband. This caused an immense sensation. The idea of a
German officer wearing the uniform of the Kaiser being struck by a mere civilian from the United States was a thing calculated to cause consternation in the Teutonic mind. The three Americans were soon the centre of an excited group, and the husband was charged with assault. The utmost that Forbes Julian could do for him was to assist in his being released later, on excessively heavy bail, even this concession being obtained only with difficulty. The husband was then enabled to join his wife and son at their hotel, but until the case came on they could not drive beyond the confines of the city. Eventually the millionaire had to pay an exceedingly heavy fine for his exploit, notwithstanding the fact that his wife had simply spoken the truth about the age of their
son.
In the travels undertaken in Hungary, Roumania,
SCIENTIFIC
and Transylvania
WORK
IN GERMANY, ETC.
35
the romantic "land beyond the " Forbes Julian was fortunate in securing the forest companionship of a secretary who was a good linguist, and so able to act as interpreter in the country
districts.
In the picturesque capital of Hungary they were received by some of the scientists of Budapest with true Magyar hospitality. In the course of their prolonged tour through the less known parts of Transylvania and Roumania they had often to stop at lonely wayside posting-houses, where little refreshment could be obtained except black bread and koumiss, a preparaWhilst in the wilds they distion of mares' milk. pensed quite cheerfully with many of the comforts of civilized life, learning to be contented with food that might have been thought hardly passable elsewhere. They were fortunate when no delays occurred at the posting-houses. On one occasion in Transylvania they arrived in the evening at a country village where a festival was being celebrated, and the innkeeper, his wife, and all the residents of the village appeared to be intoxicated with vodka, so that the travellers were perforce obliged to remain for the night and sleep Even the next day it v/as difficult to get at the inn. a meal and to obtain fresh horses, but after much loss Howof time and patience both were forthcoming. ever, when Forbes Julian and his secretary arrived at any of the mining stations all difficulties vanished. They met with generous hospitality and kindness, and were assisted on their journey in every possible manner. In all the larger towns visited there were tolerably good hotels, whilst the rough fare and humble lodging which were all that could be obtained in the poorer districts were no hindrance to one used to the hard-
36
ships
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

and adventurous
all its
life
of the
South African
veld,
with
varied vicissitudes of travel.
labours that he had undergone during his vânderings over three continents were beginning, however, to tell on a constitution that had never been Forbes Julian was rather below the medium robust.
The
height in person, sHght and active in figure, with an alertness and energy in his movements clearly indiWhile believing that cating the eager spirit within. injurious to no one, he had persevered hard work was in his undertakings long after his powers had become overtaxed. No constitution could stand such a strain
for long.
close of the year 1895 he felt the taking a complete rest, and was looking necessity of forward to spending Christmas with his family in
Towards the
England, as his relatives were becoming alarmed at his continued ill-health. The fatigue of his bodily exertions and mental labours during the past ten years had been severe, the rest taken being quite inadequate for the restoraHe was habitually an early riser, tion of his health. frequently engaged with professional but as he was matters until a late hour, his working day was thus made far too long. In the spring of 1896 he was still hoping to go out again to South Africa to continue the metallurgical work in which he took such interest, and for which he had so great an aptitude. But his health had now become seriously undermined, and he was prostrated by such severe attacks of pain and dyspepsia that he was reluctantly persuaded by friends to go to London with the object of consulting a well-known medical
specialist.
The
professional
doctor's verdict prescribed absolute rest from work for a few years and residence in
SCIENTIFIC
WORK
IN GERMANY, ETC.
37
some quiet place by the sea. The thought of even a temporary abandonment of his researches in South Africa came as a bitter disappointment to one who
looked for happiness in work, especially after the additional experience gained in the United States and Central Europe, and the insight thus obtained into many matters connected with the science of metalHis adaptability and self-reliance had proved lurgy.
important assets in new countries like South Africa and America (where mining work combines to a large extent with pioneering), and in all spheres wherever varying conditions confront the mining expert and circumstances force him to become a man who can face almost any eventuality. During his three years' connection with the Gold
und
Silber Scheide-anstalt of Frankfort as their chief
technical adviser on mining and metallurgical matters, he had conducted extensive researches which resulted in the introduction of far-reaching improvements in
the recovery of precious metals from their ores. The fact that (like other mining experts) his work had led him to various parts of the world was very advantageous to him. But when such men are stricken down by illness and wasted by suffering they cannot secure proper treatment and nursing whilst engaged in developing the mines of new countries like South Africa, and this deprives the Empire of the services of many workers well fitted for such tasks. The results of his labours were given to the mining world somewhat later in the volume " Cyaniding Gold and Silver Ores." He was well qualified for the efficient performance of his various undertakings in South Africa, for, in addition to clear reasoning powers and scientific attainments, he had the gift of dealing successfully His self-chosen time of ith large bodies of men.
38
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

had enlarged
his fellow-
assistance in his father's works
feehng with labourers, for he had endeavoured to understand their lives and sympathize with their pursuits. He was able, therefore, to apply the experience gained in the North of England to the industrial communities of Kimberley and Johannesburg. And in his explorations in native districts he won the confidence of the black population, who found in him a man of rare sympathy and ready kindness. He enjoyed the friendship of Dr. (now Sir L. S.) Jameson and his circle, but this did not prevent his acquaintance with many leading Boer families. Mrs. Rintoul (the sister of Commandant Mostert, of General Cronje's staff) wrote with the warmest gratitude of the attention shown to her husband in illness by Forbes Julian, who was never too busy to be kind. A strong vein of serious feeling ran steadily through all his actions, his conduct being guided by the wellknown words, " I shall pass through this world but once. If, therefore, there be any kindness I can show, or any good thing I can do, let me do it now. Let me not defer it nor neglect it, for I shall not
pass this
way
again."
the close of the nineteenth century, especially at the time of the "Jameson Raid," the social environment of South Africa had few neutral spheres or half-way houses as far as racial antagonisms were concerned, and it is probably true that this condition existed until very recently ; yet (notwithstanding this) his genial personality appealed alike to Briton and Boer, causing him to be regarded as a good comrade, whilst he was recognized as being a patriot and Imperialist in the best and sanest sense
Although
towards
of the terms.
He
judge
was spoken of by one of those fully qualified to as " one of the men best fitted by training and
SCIENTIFIC
WORK
IN GERMANY, ETC.
39
experience to do good work in our Colonies, and of the type that has made Great Britain what she is amongst the nations of the world."
busy decade abroad he had risen from eminence in his profession and from narrow means to affluence. The years had been full of courage, hope, and strenuous endeavour, every step of advance made having been conquered by
During
this
obscurity to
patient labour.
In
of
some
Germany he had been favoured by the friendship of those great scientists who were in the first
;
rank of the thought and progress of the age whilst in South Africa he had become acquainted with several men destined to play an important part in the drama of history amongst Briton and Boer alike, such as Cecil Rhodes, Dr. Jameson, President Kruger, and Dr. Leyds.
CHAPTER V ENGLAND AND ITALY
HAVING
resort,
thus physician to
been advised by
settle
his
London
time
active
some quiet seaside Forbes Julian had now to resign for professional vôrk and fix upon a
in
his
suitable
place
as
residence.
After wândering
about for some time with no definite plan, househunting in North Wales, the Isle of Wight, and other favourite localities, he was finally attracted by the West of England. Here he decided on " The Ness." a small country-house at Shaldon, opposite Teignmouth, which had been the marine residence of the
late
Lord CHfford.
house was situated under the sheltered proof the Ness (from which it was named), on the wooded estuary of the Teign. The views obtained from it are very striking, terminating inland in the Dartmoor range of hills capped by the rocks at Haytor, and seaward in the beautiful coast scenery of South
The
montory
Devon and
Dorset.
Forbes Julian came to Devonshire in the spring, whenthe county looks its best, the wide and sunny bay being at its loveliest and all sparkling with life
and colour.
Directly he had decided on his future residence he became anxious to provide a home for his father and sisters in Devonshire, and soon afterwards two of his sisters, Lilly and Aimee Ethel, together with their father, came to live with him at Shaldon. Charles
40
ENGLAND AND ITALY

Julian,
his
41
only brother, was now in South Africa whilst his eldest sister, Emily, who had been at Newn ham College, Cambridge, was head mistress of the His remainGirls' High School at Tunbridge Wells. ing sister, Lucie, who had been studying at Oxford,
was engaged to
man, Mr. William Davies^ Marquis of Londonderry, and secondly to Mr. (now Viscount) Bryce, Chief Secretary for Ireland and ultimately British Ambassador at Washington. Health was recovered very slowly, but the previous life of activity, for so many years without opportunities
a
Balliol
private secretary,
first
to the
for recruiting strength, rendered it not surprising that Forbes Julian required a prolonged period for rest and recuperation. It was during residence at Shaldon that he first came in touch with all the vigorous life and manly qualities of a seafaring people. His gardener Tipper, a retired naval pensioner and a deacon at one of the neighbouring chapels, became deeply attached to his master, as many of his actions as well as his letters clearly proved. Bryant, another man employed at " The Ness," was also an old sailor and a sterling and valuable
character.
Rallying with the change, Forbes Julian passed almost all the time out of doors, driving and boating. He was thus enabled, with returning strength, to enjoy the beautiful Devonshire lanes and to spend many hours on the water. He soon became proficient in the management of his boat under the assiduous tuition of Tipper, and enjoyed making trips with his neighbour Mr. Gray, who was a keen yachtsman. The private beach at " The Ness " and the beautifully wooded grounds rendered it an ideal place in which to recover health and strength.
42
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
Although living very quietly, he made many friends amongst families in South Devon. Being a good shot and interested in motoring and boating, and fond, moreover, of horses and dogs, he vâs a congenial companion, vîth little of the typical scientist whose
interests are confined to his ov^n pet subject.
frequently visited Torquay, w^here he had friends, including Admiral Lindesey Brine, Colonel and Mrs. Brine, Mrs. Cole of Fell Court and her sons. These quiet years vêre not in any sense empty, but vêre amply filled wîth various occupations. It vâs about this time that his attention was turned to motor traffic. He became one of the founders of the Royal Automobile Club, taking a keen and watchful interest in its early fortunes, and in motoring tours undertaken with the companionship of other members he was enabled to see a great deal of the beautiful scenery of rural England. He also became a member of the Royal Horticultural Society, finding attraction in botanical studies, which he was able in this country district to prosecute
several
successfully.
He
During his residence at Shaldon his sisters Lilly and Lucie both married. As their husbands were busy professional men, they could not in future be very much with him. In 1898 he had the pleasure of a visit from some South African friends, Mr. and Mrs. Rintoul. The former, who had been seriously ill and under treatment at a nursing-home in London, speedily regained his health in Devonshire. He was of Scottish origin, and his talented wife had been a Miss Mostert, and belonged to one of the old-established Boer families
of the Transvaal.
visit,
Mr. Rintoul
Alluding several years later to this " When we went to stay writes
:
ENGLAND AND ITALY

'
43
with him at The Ness,' he had erected his laboratory, and was always engaged in scientific researches." Some time after they left England there were rumours of threatened hostilities, and it will be readily understood that the outbreak of the war in South Africa in 1899 caused great concern to Forbes Julian,
who had
of the
still
several British
and Colonial friends there
in addition to Dr. Jameson, and, moreover,
knew many
combatants on both sides. The following extract from a Mr. Rintoul gives an account of
letter received
life
;
in
from Johannesburg
at the
commencement
of hostilities
his
own
brother
was with the British army and his wife's two brothers were with the Boer forces, so that to him the conflict
partook almost of the nature of a civil war. One of the chief tragedies of the Boer War was that so frequently families were broken up and love destroyed. Mr. Rintoul never became a combatant himself, but rendered assistance in connection with hospital work to the wounded on both sides.
Johannesburg,
^th Oct., 1899.
...
It
would take pages to describe to you the excitement
which has prevailed in Johannesburg for the past three weeks, but I suppose you get all the news in the papers, and I will content myself by just giving a few minor details. The Burghers were all called out a fortnight ago, and willingly responded to the call, and even at the present only mounted men can be seen in the town. The mines are all closed down, with the exception of the foreign groups, and these are being worked by miners and workmen of the nationality with which the mine is connected. There has been an enormous exodus both of whites and blacks, and the discomfort
attending the former during the last fortnight in travelling must have been terrible. The men had to be contented with coal-trucks without a covering, and as this is our rainy season, their discomfort can be more easily imagined than described,
. . .
44
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
All the stores and private houses are barricaded with iron and wood, but this does not prevent private houses being broken into and the contents stolen by the large number of roughs who (as you know) are in Johannesburg. Furniture has been taken by these folk from unoccupied houses in the broad daylight, and as most of the police have been called out nothing can be done. All the bars, hotels, and even the clubs are closed by order of the Government, and a drink is not obtainable at any price. The British companies have removed In comparison their head offices to Cape Town and Durban. with the desolated appearance of the town caused by barricading, there is a large amount of bunting displayed from the
various foreign houses.
I
. . .
applying for a permit to remain and to do the ordinary police duty, which must be done by all those who receive such permission. I don't half like it, but we really cannot . go away, and come v/hat might, we must stay.
. .
am
Another letter, although received much later from whose son-in-law had been one of the heroes of the Mafeking district, may fitly be inserted here.
a friend
wife and I would be greatly pleased to see you again. Last Thursday our second daughter married Captain , who was a terror to the Boers north of Mafeking, for in fifteen months ending last June, when he was invalided home, he trained his company of South Wales Borderers as Scouts and
My
made them good
shots on horseback. During these fifteen months he never had more than two hours' sleep at a time, and that mostly in daylight, as he was scouting all night. He
took so many prisoners that at last he scattered notices over " 's Scouts take no prisoners." After that the veld the Boers gave him a very wide berth. He did not lose a single man of his command, and he had some three hundred men under him. He knew the veld well, having fought in the Lancers in the Matabele War, and then gone after big
:
game.
In January 1900 a break occurred in the home life through the death of his father, Mr. Henry Julian,
ENGLAND AND ITALY
45
who at the time of his last brief illness was staying with one of his married daughters, Lilly Unsworth. Although he died in his seventy-third year, and had thus reached a good old age, his death came upon the hearts that loved him with all the shock of unexpectedness and a keen sense of bereavement. In order to obtain further benefit to his health by change of air and scene, and to avoid the English winter, Forbes Julian twice paid visits to Italy towards the close of the nineteenth century, delighting in the wonderful scenery, the beautiful sky, and magnificent climate.
At Florence, where he stayed for some time, he had the advantage of frequently meeting his sister's friend. Miss Helen Zimmern, the authoress of " The Last Days of Papal Rome," who was a noted lecturer on Dante and well known to the British Colony at Florence. Through her kind introductions he met many compatriots and Italian families, as well as
visitors of other nationalities, who were staying at the famous and cosmopolitan City of Flowers. Not only did the beauties of nature attract him strongly, but also the artistic works of man, such as the statues and pictures. He was himself a fine draughtsman, and soon became absorbed in these studies, visiting the famous galleries and churches with much enjoyment, as well as exploring many lovely scenes in the valley His artistic tastes were greatly stimuof the Arno. lated by these Italian visits, and he became thoroughly conversant with the magnificent cathedral designed by Arnolfo, whose great work was " crowned by
Brunellcschi's
wonderful
dome and shadowed by
Giotto's matchless bell-tower,"
CHAPTER
t I
VI
MARRIAGE
nineteenth century closed in gloom, for Great Britain had still her hand on the sword and was engaged in the protracted struggle Thoughts of war, with the Boers in South Africa. of mourning, and of bitter bereavement filled the land, and before the first month of the New Year had passed away the country was further saddened by the death of Queen Victoria, who for so many long years had held the affectionate admiration and esteem of all classes of her subjects throughout the Empire. The twentieth century was soon, however, to unfold the hope of an early settlement and to usher in the reign of the brilliant and beloved King Edward the Peacemaker. Amidst these great events minor changes were in progress, the results of which were profoundly to influence the life of Forbes Julian. Amongst these was one which occurred in the West of England. The Right Rev. Herbert Ryle, of Cambridge, had succeeded Bishop Edward Bickersteth in the Diocese of Exeter, and his enthronement took place early in 190 1. It was at Torquay, just after her return from Exeter, where she had witnessed the enthronement of the new bishop, that Forbes Julian first met his future wife, Hester Pengelly. The intimacy soon ripened into friendship, and the friendship into affection. She shared his love of science and travel, they had manv other tastes in
AHE
46
PLATE
III
To face page 46
i)<3tte,
Ill'.blJ'Jv
JULIAN
Dublin
MARRIAGE
common,
both her parents.
47
and, like him, she had suffered the loss of She had been educated at private schools at Torquay and Clevedon and at the Ladies' College, Cheltenham, completing her education at home by studying mathematics and geology with her Afterwards she became a member of the father. Geologists' Association, the Royal Anthropological Institute, the Dante Society, and other institutions, especially in all of which Forbes Julian was interested the last named, as during his visits to Florence he had become a student of the works of Dante.
His health was now re-established, and he had previously intended returning to South Africa in 1 90 1, but the prospect of marriage led him to abandon the idea of leaving England. During the spring of 1902 the engagement was announced, and gave great pleasure to their relatives and intimate associates. The earliest friend to send him congratulations was Sir Vincent Barrington, while Mr. and Mrs. Rintoul wrote from Johannesburg sending their best wishes and expressing the hope that they would be able to attend the ceremony. Forbes Julian's future wife was the youngest daughter, by his second marriage, of the late William Pengelly, a distinguished scientist and a Fellow of the Royal Society, who by his explorations of Kent's Cavern was specially identified with the geology of the Torquay district. He was well known also as the founder of the Devonshire Association and the Torquay Natural History Society, and it was in virtue of this connection with Torquay and of Hester Pengelly's love for her old home that Forbes Julian resolved to settle permanently in that town. By his six years' sojourn at Shaldon and by his ten years' residence at Torquay he became a naturalized Devonian, and was soon warmly attached to his
48
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Indeed he always spoke of those
adopted county.
The impresyears as the happiest period of his life. sions of nature which he had gathered as a child from his home in the picturesque district of the South of
rich
Ireland were deep and lasting, but his love for the and beautiful coast scenery of Devonshire and
for the
home
of his married life
was deeper
still
and
more abiding.
In allusion to
his
this affection for the
West Country,
old friend Mr. Sulman, the well-known metallurgical chemist, who often met him in London, " We constantly lunched at the Mining and writes Metallurgical Club together, where we had many a long talk on matters which mutually interested us. The hour seldom passed without a reference to his home at Torquay and the charm that this lovely corner of England exercised over him." The summer of 1902 brought the cessation of the South African War, and the blessings of peace slowly emerged from the dark clouds that had hung over the
:
British Empire,
and
this
seemed
happy omen
for
their engagement.
before their marriage he and his future wife were present in August on the occasion of the procession of the King and Queen to and from Westminster Abbey for the Coronation. This singularly impressive spectacle they witnessed from the windows of Whitehall with his sister Lucie and her husband, Mr. William Davies, who was at that time private Added to the secretary to Lord Londonderry. pageantry of the ceremonial was the pathos of stately the scene ; the King, just given back to the prayers of his subjects after his severe illness, was a dignified yet touching figure, and the thoughts of all were centred on him and on his consort. Great sympathy was also felt for the aged and infirm Archbishop, and
Not long
MARRIAGE
49
by none more keenly than by Hester Pengelly herself. Dr. Temple, when Bishop of Exeter, had been a valued
friend of her father.
During September Forbes Julian was occupied in '' removing from Shaldon to Torquay, " The Ness having been partially burnt down, an occurrence which caused him great inconvenience and pecuniary It happened during his absence on a visit to loss. London that one evening, just before midnight, his beautiful home had been found to be ablaze, the fire having started in the kitchens. Tipper the gardener, with all the ready resource of an old sailor, rendered valuable assistance, with the help of the coastguardsmen, in saving many papers and writings from the burning wreck, and telegraphed to his master, who It was a severe shock to see only at once returned. it was also the blackened ruins of his beloved home
;
sad uprooting, enforcing the obligation to settle elsewhere. It was, however, a matter of consolation to him to know that no servant nor other inmate of the household had suffered harm. The conflagration occurred about the time of his
a
engagement, and although " The Ness " was soon rebuilt, he decided on making his chosen home at Torquay, and quickly adapted himself to the new and narrower surroundings, for " Redholme," his villa residence there, had only a small garden instead of the beautiful grounds which had afforded him such pleasure in the country district of Shaldon.
Amongst those who took much interest in the approaching marriage in October and wrote regretting their inability to be present at the ceremony on account of the long journey to Torquay, were Lord Lister, Lord Avebury, Sir Robert and Lady Ball of Cambridge, Sir John and Lady Burdon-Sanderson of Oxford, Sir Archibald Gcikie, Professor Harley,
50
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
Professor Sayce, the Rev. J. O. Bevan, Mrs. Martin Donohoe, and other old friends of the bride. Likewise Bishop Welldon was to have been present to take part in the service, but was prevented hy absence in
South Africa. A few short extracts from some
letters she received
be inserted here, the first being from Bishop Welldon, written from Little Cloisters, Westminster, on August 29th, 1902
:
may
...
say so.
hardly
if
wedding
see, now, how I am to be present at your go to the Cape, though it is a pain to me to
I shall be in residence here until the end of September, I have made engagements for the three first days in October, and I hope to sail on the 4th. But I do not yet look upon my going as certain. Will you accept from me this present (of volumes of the works of Shakespeare) as a sign of my interest in your approaching marriage, and of my regret that I may not be able to be present at it if I sail for South Africa before the date of your wedding ? I pray that many years of happiness and usefulness may be granted to your husband and yourself.
. . .
Lord
Lister wrote
on October 2nd
as follows
... It is very kind of you to wish that I could attend your wedding. ... It is impossible, I greatly fear, to get away to Torquay this month, and therefore for me to be able to be with you on the occasion, but you have my heartiest good wishes for your happiness, my dear Hester. ... It is extremely kind of you and Mr. Julian to invite me to Torquay. . .
.
Lord Avebury wrote from Farnborough

.
Thank you for the kind and interesting invitation. should be very glad indeed to avail ourselves of it if we are in your neighbourhood. ... I am extremely glad to hear that they have put up the Hall in memory of your illustrious father, my dear old friend. We send all good
. .
Vi e
wishes.
MARRIAGE
Lady Burdon-Sanderson sent the following from Oxford on October 8th
:
.
.
.
51
letter
Accept
my warm
...
good
I
heartily congratulate
congratulations on your engagement Mr. Julian, because I know what
qualities reside in his fiancee, and I have no doubt when have the pleasure of making his acquaintance I shall quite justify your choice. ... I am sorry that we cannot hope to be present at the wedding. I expect to be in the north at the end of this month, and Sir John has engagements in Oxford.
.
Writing from Edinburgh, Professor Sayce says

very sorry that I cannot have the pleasure of a dependent on pen and paper. But I have left London and, as you will see from my address, am now settled in the north. Indeed I have been further north than Edinburgh, for I have been lecturing at Aberdeen. Let me congratulate you on the news your letter contained. I hope that you will have nothing but happiness and prosperity in the new life that awaits you. . I wish we had a little of your warmth here ^we are still in the glacial age. I send all good wishes.
I
...
am
talk instead of being
dent) wrote from

I
Mrs. Martin Donohoe (wife of the war corresponLondon on October 29th

:
am
thinking
much
of
you and
is
shall
be thinking of you
to you.
to-morrow, the day which
to
mean
so
much
you the ceremony which makes you and Mr. Julian one will be over. I pray that the union may be fraught with the greatest happiness to you both and that you, dear Hester, may be able to look back on your weddingday, as I and all other happy wives do, counting it the most blessed day of your life. That all good may attend you in the new time dawning for you is the prayer of
this reaches
When
Your
affectionate friend.
The marriage of Henry Forbes Julian and Hester Pengelly was solemnized on October 30th, 1902, at
52
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
St. Mary Magdalene (Upton) Church, Torquay, the ceremony being performed by the Rev. Canon Edmonds, Chancellor of Exeter Cathedral.
The
bride's elder sister, Lydia, held a reception
after the marriage service,
which was attended by
large circle of relatives and friends, at the " Pengelly Hall," the building erected as a memorial to their father, which is referred to in Lord Avebury's letter.
tour was spent in Cornwall, chiefly Launceston and Tintagel, the travellers being greatly impressed by the scenes so eloquent of history and redolent of antiquarian interest and natural beauty in
at this picturesque district of the west.
The wedding
Before Christ-
mas they were settled at their home in Torquay, where they had a most hospitable reception from families of the neighbourhood. Although there was
that was congenial in this friendly intercourse, the various engagements of social life formed hardly employment enough for an active temperament,
still
much
and were merely pleasant interludes of relaxation amidst more serious occupations. Forbes Julian soon joined the Devonshire Association and the Torquay Natural History Society, the two local institutions founded by his late father-in-law, and served the latter as a member of committee, communicating papers after his election and lending a helping hand in various ways to assist in bringing the Society more prominently forward. He also joined the British Association for the Advancement of Science, and some of the societies in London to which Mr. Pengelly had belonged. This brought him into friendly intercourse with leaders in various branches of learning with whom he had. previously been unacquainted owing to his long residence abroad and the quiet country life he had led since his return to England. Of the man whose scientific activities were thus
MARRIAGE
S3
destined to have so far-reaching an attraction for his future son-in-law and to affect his way of life in manyways something should now be said, in order to throw
on the influences with which Forbes Julian by his marriage and residence at Torquay, and the family and friends of his wife and the surroundings in which she had been brought up. William Pengelly was born at East Looe, in Cornwall, and by descent came from a long line of seafaring men of courage and adventure. His father, Richard Pengelly, was a Cornishman and the captain of a vessel, whilst his mother was a Prout of the same family as Samuel Prout, the celebrated artist.
light
more came
in contact,
only twelve years of age the future geologist school for ever and began his life at sea on the vessel commanded by his father. The death of his only brother made his mother anxious about her sailor boy, and he gave up his seafaring life and returned home at the age of sixteen.
left
When
A few years later he removed to Torquay, where he opened a small day-school and commenced his career as a schoolmaster and lecturer, rendering high service to his generation and giving indirectly a powerful impetus to the whole system of scientific thought in
the south-west of England. Shortly after settling in Torquay his attention was turned to scientific studies. His interest was soon thoroughly awakened, and he prosecuted his geological researches with enthusiasm, working assiduously at the rocks and fossils of Cornwall and Devon, in sympathy and correspondence with Hugh Miller, Charles Peach, and many distinguished contemporaries, including Sir Roderick Murchison, Dr. Bowerbank, Professor Huxley, Sir Charles Lyell, Sir Richard Owen, Professor Sedgwick, Professor Milne-Edwards of Paris, and other leading scientists. Assisted by Mr. Vivian, Dr. Battersby, and a few
54
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
other friends, William Pengelly founded the Torquay Natural History Society in 1844, it being largely due to the untiring efforts and never-abating energy of the young geologist that its success was ultimately He was unwearied in his work of contribusecured. ting to its permanent usefulness by lectures, by papers, and by gifts of fossils, and for nearly forty years of his active life he was the hard-working and indefatigable honorary secretary of the institution. The museum collection is of unique value and of surpassing interest in illustrating the antiquity of man, as evidenced by the geological deposits rescued from Kent's Cavern by his disinterested labours. His private pupils had become so numerous about this time that he finally gave up his school and became a tutor of the natural sciences, his services being called for by very illustrious families, the Russian Imperial family amongst them, and by members of more than one other Royal house. Although he was now contributing geological papers to different scientific societies, it was more as a lecturer than as a writer that his activity was manifested. As his reputation grew he frequently lectured at the Royal Institution in London, at the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge, at Manchester, Liverpool, Birmingham, Glasgow, Dundee, and most of the other large cities in England and Scotland. At Torquay his gratuitously given winter courses on geology attracted crowded audiences. As a natural science lecturer he placed his ever-growing knowledge unreservedly at the disposal of the many, and was
ineffectually remonstrated with
when
friends urged
that he could not afford to be always working without fee. His letters from famous workers in the same field show how opinions were matured on questions of geological difficulty or doubt, whilst his published
MARRIAGE
55
correspondence with his friend Sir Charles Lyell proves what influence WilHam Pengelly's experience and philosophical acumen had on the establishment and progress of geological science, and that he was an adviser in whom the author of '' The Principles of Geology " and " The Antiquity of Man " placed a large and generous confidence. About the same period he formed two of the other great friendships of his life, with Canon Kingsley and the late Lord Lister friendships to be severed only by death. He and Charles Kingsley had many scientific and philanthropic interests in common, which rendered the tie between them unusually strong. Joseph Lister's scientific researches also and the earnestness of his efforts to relieve human suffering greatly endeared him to William Pengelly, creating a warm friendship between them, an attachment which grew stronger by recurring intercourse. '' I cherish his memory v^th affectionate admiration," wrote the great surgeon in a letter to the present writer after William Pengelly's death ; " what a comfort that his love of science never undermined his faith as a
Christian."
connection with the Society of Friends friendships with the Burlinghams, the Listers, and the Fox family of Falmouth, for they all belonged to the Society, and in middle life he made the acquaintance of Mr. Spriggs, to whose youngest daughter, Lydia, he became attached. He had been a widower for some years, and in spite of the difference in age his second marriage added greatly to his happiness, for in all his undertakings he was now sustained and encouraged by the loving and help of his young wife. Lever-ready Her family had been members of the Society of Friends for several generations, her great-aunt being
His
first
came through
S6
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
remembered as the young Quakeress Hester Savory, on whose death Charles Lamb composed his wellknown poem '' To Hester." William and Lydia
her
Pengelly's youngest daughter, the present writer, is namesake. The geologist was a well-known
member
years
of the British Association for nearly forty
at most of the gatherings during that period, being soon placed on the General Committee of the Association and also on the Council. In 1877 he held the Presidency of the Geological Section at the Plymouth meeting, and he presided over the Department of Anthropology at the meeting at Southport in 1883. The Baroness (then Miss) Burdett-Coutts frequently visited Torquay, and her friendship vdth Mr. and Mrs. Pengelly commenced just after their marriage. They were often her guests both in Devonshire and in London, being invited to meet the Prince of Wales (afterwards His Majesty King Edward VII), the Duke and Duchess of Teck, and many other Royal and distinguished persons, at her house. Soon after his second marriage the geologist entered on that special sphere of research in which he was to rise to eminence, for his detailed excavations in the Devonshire Caves commenced in 1858. It was in that year that the Windmill Hill Cavern was discovered at Brixham. Its thorough investigation was undertaken by the Royal and Geological Societies
and was present
through
a committee of which he was a member, the actual superintendence falling entirely on him. These
researches and those undertaken later at Kent's Cavern were gratuitous ; he was rewarded indeed, not vdth
discoveries of the utmost significance. Writing of the work at Brixham, Professor Bonney, " The results proved the well-known geologist, states that in Devonshire a race of men in a low state of
:
money, but by
MARRIAGE
57
civilization had been contemporaneous with a fauna which has now disappeared from Britain and in some
cases
is
actually extinct."
The eminent
Professor
authority
on
cavern
*'
:
excavations,
Boyd Dawkins,
beyond
also writes
all
The
explora-
doubt the existence of Palaeolithic man in the Pleistocene Age, and caused the whole of the scientific world to awake to the fact
tion established
of the vast antiquity of the
human
race."
question of the antiquity of man was warmly debated at the meeting of the British Association at Aberdeen in 1859. Here we are carried back to the
The
atmosphere breathed by Lyell, Murchison, Owen,

PhilHps, Huxley, and Ramsay, and with their help William Pengelly fought for the infant doctrine It against all the forces of bigotry and intolerance.
is
mainly due to their
efforts that
more enlightened
opinions are now held. It was a steady light replacing the gloom. He was one of the earliest converts to the theory of creation by evolution as well as a champion of the doctrine of the antiquity of man, and he laboured as a pioneer of that doctrine through all the burden and heat of the battle. The Presidential chair of the Association at Aberdeen was filled by the Prince Consort, and during the progress of the meeting the geologist was one of those members who received a gracious invitation to Balmoral from Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Many years later Mr. Pengelly had the honour of receiving
Lamorna," Torquay, from Her Majesty's grandsons. Prince Edward and Prince George of Wales. The ex-Emperor Napoleon HI, with the Prince Imperial, Prince Murat, and also the Queen of Holland, visited him at " Lamorna " on other occasions, and
manifested
a visit at his residence, "
much
interest in the fossils
and
scientific
58
specimens.
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
The Grand Duchess Marie, sister of Alexander II of Russia and widow of the Duke of Leuchtenberg, was another frequent visitor at Torquay, and her sons studied several branches of science with Mr. Pengelly, becoming much attached to him. Prince Nicholas, the eldest of the princes, made great progress in geology, and was afterwards appointed hy his uncle, the Tsar, Inspector of Mines in his dominions. The Prince and Princess of the Netherlands, with
Mary, also came to Devonand asked William Pengelly to read geology with the young princess, the latter being so anxious
their daughter, the Princess
shire,
to have his instruction that she agreed to take her

lessons before eight o'clock in the morning.
" The unremitting well-known geologist writes and gratuitous labour which Pengelly for many years devoted to the exploration of caverns met with a reward of a rather unusual kind. In maturer life he was positively courted by all ranks of society, from queens and emperors downwards. The simplicity of his tastes, of his mode of living, and of his general demeanour was never spoiled by the flattery, direct and indirect, of which he was so frequently the
:
recipient."
His pupils included all ranks, from the prince to the peasant, for he started classes for working men and boys, whom he taught gratuitously at a night school after his hard day's work. During the year i860 he completed the formation of a valuable and representative collection of Devonian fossils, which, under the name of the " Pengelly Collection," was presented to the Oxford University Museum in connection with the Burdett-Coutts Geological
Scholarship.
The
were
investigations of the
also undertaken,
Bovey Tracey deposits and concluded by him early
MARRIAGE
in the sixties.
59
that
His scientific colleagues considered systematic examination of these deposits was of exceptional interest, and induced him to communicate a paper to the Royal Society on the work. It was entitled " The Lignites and Clays of
this
Bovey Tracey," and was supplemented by an account of the Fossil Flora of Bovey Tracey from Dr. Oswald Heer of Zurich, the eminent palaeo-botanist. Not the least of Mr. Pengelly's services to his adopted county was the foundation of the Devonshire Association for the Advancement of Science, Literature, and Art, an enterprise in which he received great assistance from Sir John Bowring, Mr. Brooking Rowe, the Rev. W. Harpley, and other intimate associates. The first meeting, held at Exeter in 1862, proved remarkably successful under the able presidency of One of his successors in the Sir John Bowring. ** chair," in 1871, was the founder's intimate friend.
Canon
Kingsley.
The
and has now continued to
Association took firm root, flourish for half a century.
In 1872 another of his friends. Archbishop Temple, then Bishop of Exeter, presided at the second meeting
held in his
own
cathedral city.
and best-known scientific work undertaken by Mr. Pengelly, and the only one remembered by the present writer (who was the youngest child of his second family), was the exploration of Kent's Cavern, Torquay, which was not completed until 1880, having occupied between fifteen and sixteen years. The exploration commenced on March 27th, 1865, and was concluded on June 19th, 1880. Professor Boyd Dawkins writes thus of William
The
last
Pengelly's labours
Day by day, except when the work was stopped, he visited the Cave, and recorded on maps and plans the exact spot where each specimen was found, for no less than sixteen years.
6o
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
vast collection of palaeolithic implements and fossil bones, each of which bears traces of his handiwork, is represented in most of the museums in this country, and the annual reports, listened to with so much pleasure by crowds at the meetings of the British Association, are the most complete
The
that have ever been published.
He willingly abandoned all thought of wealth or advancement in life so as to prosecute these researches successfully, and devoted about five hours daily to
the cavern work, a rare instance of devotion to science on the part of a man who was not in independent circumstances, and had to gain a livelihood by lecturing and teaching, for it was only through an inheritance that came to his wife that his later years were passed
in affluence.
Amongst those who took much
interest
in
the
Cavern exploration and honoured William Pengelly by visiting him at " Lamorna," Torquay, and inspecting his geological collections, was (as already stated) His Majesty the King, then Prince George of Wales. On that occasion the present writer remembers that Prince George was specially interested in viewing the bones gnawed and split by hyaenas and the flint implements found in the Cave, being reminded of similar specimens inspected in the Museum at Copenhagen. The Prince was very anxious that Mr. Pengelly should see the latter. The geologist had several friends amongst Scandinavian professors, and he long cherished the hope of visiting the Danish capital and examining
the anthropological collections there, but unfortunately this wish was never gratified. After William Pengelly's death, which occurred in
1894, Professor
Full of years,
Bonney wrote
much
beloved, and with his scientific work

his rest.
It will
widely recognized, he has gone to
be long
PLATE
IV
To face page 60
A.
S.
Cope, Pinxt.
WILLIAM PENGELLY,
F.R.S.
MARRIAGE
man.
6i
before this work is forgotten, for his name is inseparably linked to the history of caves and the annals of primseval
His scientific work did not interfere with his other if he studied ancient times and primitive ; man he did not lose touch with contemporary life and thought. Music, politics, temperance, all interested him and claimed his sympathies. For more than half a century he laboured unflinchingly to advance the bounds of human knowledge, and he was no less staunch to his friends. His first thought was ever the instruction he could afford to others, the last consideration the personal benefit he might derive
activities
for himself.
The Jubilee of the Devonshire Association, founded by Mr. Pengelly, was celebrated in 191 2, the year and at the Forbes Julian started on the Titanic request of some of their friends his wife had written this little sketch of the founder, which had interested him and engaged his attention on his last day at home, and it was thought, therefore, not out of place to insert it with this memoir. This estimate of William Pengelly's work and influence on Devonian thought and science has accordingly been given at some length because of
;
the special connection with Forbes Julian, who during the last decade of his life, by his change of residence and
interest
takings.
in
his
late
father-in-law's studies,
became
closely associated
with
many
of his scientific underinterest
Facts have an
additional
when
told in
and an account of the metallurgist's new connections helps to make plain some of his subsequent interests and activities, but in the midst of these miscellaneous occupations he did not forget his old and favourite science. Although, in
relation to a personality,
62
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
prospect of his approaching marriage, he had in 1901 relinquished the thought of returning to South Africa, yet an active worker was unHkely to remain long idle ; he was again eager for employment, and was now engaged in the preparation of a scientific text-book,
of which an account must be given in the succeeding chapter.
CHAPTER VII PUBLICATION OF WORK ON " CYANIDING GOLD AND SILVER ORES "
THE
how
the
text-book which preparing with the

colleague,
Forbes
JuHan
of
was
his
collaboration
Mr. Edgar Smart, was a treatise on cyaniding. The two friends had commenced the work in 1901, and their correspondence shows
difficulties
of joint
authorship were over-
come.
Mr. Smart had been out in Australia since the old days of their friendship in the Transvaal. He had been in England during 1901, but returned to South Africa at the close of the Boer War. It was at first intended that he should write the mechanical part, and that Forbes Julian should supply the chemical portion in the work, but it was soon felt that such a plan would hardly give the best
results.
invites his colleague's criticism
Writing from London early in 1901, Mr. Smart on a sample chapter.

says
.
.
He
.
this I am sending you a sample chapter rough before putting on any literary polish, to see whether it meets your views. Please criticize it destructively quite regardless of its parentage, and, if you will allow me, I will do the same for your part as far as my ignorance of chemistry will allow. As you said, writing a book is the best means of learning a subject.
Enclosed with
in the
And
in a later letter
he wrote
63
64
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

London,
^th Afril,
1
90 1.
does not seem feasible entirely to separate the chemical and mechanical portions, and if we were each to write our portions apart there would be a difficulty about the subsequent jointing ; and, secondly, as it does me good to write chemistry even if occasionally marred by false doctrine ; and as, thirdly, you have not so much time to spare as I have I submit that the best plan will be for me to at present write as completely as possible, putting in all I know and can gather, so that you can then remodel the work, cutting out those things that be unseemly or untrue, for which you can substitute your own knowledge. Then, when each chapter is thus complete, it will be comparatively easy to see which sequence of the chapters will be most natural and
it
... As
instructive.
It was on lines such as these that the work was ultimately accomplished, occasional reference being made to friends when it seemed advisable to consult them on specific matters. Amongst those who helped in this way may be mentioned Mr. J. E. Clennell, a colleague of the South African days, who was then
living in
London.
the end of 1903 the book was completed, and was published early in 1904 by Messrs. Charles Griffin and Co. Ltd., under the title of " Cyaniding Gold and The volume was of nearly four hundred Silver Ores."
pages, with
By
abundant
illustrations,
numerous working
drawings in the text, and thirty- four folding plates. The appearance of this work marked a stage in the
was of great use to men. A very favourable reception was accorded the book not only by metallurgists but also by mining journals and other scientific publications, but any adequate review of the work must of necessity lie wholly beyond the range of
history of cyanidation,
scientists
for
it
and
also to practical
the present biographical sketch.
slight
account,
PUBLICATION OF
WORK ON CYANIDING
65
however, should find a place in this memoir, and as it seems advisable to adduce independent testimony, some extracts from lengthy reviews which appeared The in Nature and the Athenaum may be inserted. extracts in question give the following summary of the subject and an appreciative estimate of the way in which it had been treated. In Nature for January 26th, 1905, we read
stripling.
still in its teens, but it is a lusty enormous increase in the production of gold during the last few years is due to it either directly or indirectly. There are few gold-mines of any importance in the world at which the process is not installed, and it has been stated on high authority that the majority of these mines could not earn profits and pay dividends without its Owing to the shortness of the time since the industry aid. of cyaniding gold and silver ores began to spring up, there is a lack of data on the subject readily available to men at work far from centres of civilization. There are many books on the cyanide process, but new ones are still welcome, particulariy a book like that of Messrs. Julian and Smart. The authors were well equipped for their task, both having been engaged in the industry for a number of years. They have not, however, merely written down the results of their own practical experience, a course which usually leads to dogmatic assertions on doubtful points, but, on the contrary, have studied the voluminous literature of the subject with
The Cyanide
process
is
Much
of the
evident care.
. .
begins with an interesting . . . chapter on the early history of the cyanide process. The authors next proceed to describe the laboratory experiments which are necessary to determine the method of applying the process to any particular ore. The later chapters, dealing with the methods and machinery used in practice, form by far the most useful and interesting part of the book. The authors seem to be quite at home in describing the design and construction of leaching vats, precipitation boxes, pumps, launders, sizing plants, and all the accessories of a modern cyanide mill. The methods of treating different classes of material are
.
.
.
The book
also
handled with
skill
and judgment.
ee
The book
. .
.
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

ends with a couple of excellent chapters on the
.
and of treating ores. . that those has been said to show interested in the cyanide industry cannot do without it.
cost of constructing plants
.
And enough
In the Athenceum (August 27th, 1904)
it
is
stated:
amount of gold present and the finer its more necessary it becomes that as little of it as possible should be wasted in extracting it from the matrix or ore in which it lies imprisoned. The coarse, mechanical washing, which was permissible and paid în the happy old days of placer workings, had very early to be supplemented by the use of mercury. When hard, unyielding reefs came to be attacked, even the richest, the expense of crushing, and of otherwise preparing the ore for amalgamation, caused
smaller the
state of division, the
The
many
refinements of that process to be resorted to in order to lessen the leakage. Now the chief stores of gold are of the " low grade " type in which the minute percentage of the precious metal in imperceptible particles is only compensated by the com" parative uniformity of its dissemination as in the " banket deposits of the Rand. The gold which one can afford to lose is thus reduced to its very minimum, and amalgamation alone, however carefully carried out, is no longer equal to its
task.
success,
Chlorination has therefore been tried, with more or less but it involves the preliminary process of roasting the ore, and to multiply operations means a reduction of profits. A further step, and one that has proved extraordinarily effective, has been the adoption of the cyanide process. Essentially this process is simple enough. It may be described as the treating of the crushed ore with a dilute solution of potassium cyanide (an expensive and highly poisonous substance, unfortunately) exposed to the oxygenizing influence of the air. The gold is dissolved and afterwards precipitated from the solution by means of zinc turnings or by electrolysis. To compare this bald statement with the excellent work before us four hundred pages full of accurate and needful information, with elaborate tabular matter and careful working drawings is to realize the extraordinary development of the cyanide process since 1887. In that year Messrs. Wanliss
PUBLICATION OF
WORK ON CYANIDING
67
and Julian, acting as consulting engineers to the Johannesburg Pioneer Company, erected the first small plant in which the cyanide solution was used as an adjunct to amalgamation. Since that time the chemist in his laboratory and the metallurgist at the mines have been strenuously working hand-inhand to perfect every detail of the process, and throughout they have, it must be remembered, been forced to work under the ever-present limitations imposed by pecuniary
considerations.
continue the process of dissolution until all of the gold captured is necessarily to reduce the output ; to remove entirely the impurities present in the solvent though to do so would, of course, add to its efficiency must increase the cost, though by ever so little. These are but instances of the advantages and disadvantages which have incessantly to be balanced in practice. What is theoretically the more perfect way of procedure must always give way to the interests of the investor. To get as much gold as it will pay to get is the only rule. But though this be so, it is very satisfactory to note the tone in which the more modern writers, such as Messrs. Julian and Smart, treat such subjects as these. ... ... In this volume, every slight change in the details of practice has been noted from all parts of the world and is carefully examined and described. But the scientific reasons for each change are duly set forth, even though this necessitates the discussion of topics so difficult and often so recent as the newer views of solution and electro-chemical phenomena discussions which few gold-seekers of the older kind would have listened to with patience. In its combination of sound theory clearly understood and clearly stated with wide practical knowledge, we have met with nothing more helpful in its way than this thoroughly up-to-date and business-like treatise.
is
To
Mr. Sulman, a past president of the Institution of Mining and Metallurgy, in a letter to the present
writer in 191 2, refers thus to Forbes Julian's labours " I profited greatly by his work. His volume on * Cyanidihg ' has for many years been recognized as the best treatise on Rand practice, and of the greatest
:
68
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
men. To ourselves it has been invaluable." Generous testimony to the value of his work was received from several other metallurgists, and warm congratulations immediately poured in from colleagues and associates. Their letters show the favourable opinion formed of his scientific labours by eminent
possible value to technical
experts.
A letter in the Times, written after the news of Forbes Julian's death had been received (April 20th,
1
91 2), says
be remembered as the joint author of Cyaniding Gold and Silver Ores,' which as a textbook has been widely consulted." A scientific man builds not only for his own generation but for those which follow him, and by his researches Forbes Julian helped to develop the process which has worked such a change in the recovery of His contributions not gold and silver from ores. only threw much light on the subject, but opened up a fresh line of investigation, and gave him a permanent place in the history of cyanidation, and the text-book published about a decade ago still holds the
will
'
"
He
field.
his old friend
from Germany received in April 1904 from Herr Friedrich Stockhausen brought the sad intelligence of the death of their colleague Herr Hugo Andreae, with whom they had both worked long and earnestly at metallurgical problems in South and it also conveyed the thanks of the directors Africa
;
A letter
of the Frankfort
his book.
Gold und
Silber Scheide-anstalt for
was a very severe blow to was the more affected by the intelligence as it recalled the pleasant days both in the Transvaal and Germany passed with a kindred spirit
loss of this friend
The
Forbes Julian.
He
PUBLICATION OF
researches
WORK ON CYANIDING
69
and fellow-worker, with whom his life and scientific had been at that time interwoven and bound up. Their close friendship had in spite of absence and separation lasted until death. Herr Friedrich Stockhausen wrote
:
Frankfort,
iSth April, 1904. great pleasure to thank you in the name of the directors for the copy of your interesting book " Cyaniding
It gives
me
Silver Ores," which we received some time ago addressed to our Mr. Andreae. This gentleman was absent on business at that time and returned only a few days ago, apparently in good health, showing no visible sign that his successful career would be finished so soon. On last Thursday morning Hugo Andreae was found dead in his bed, the physician ascribing the sudden end to apoplexy of the brain. I am sure you will mourn with me for the friend with whom we worked together in bygone days in the Transvaal.
Gold and
In addition to his literary work Forbes Julian was engaged on investigations at the little laboratory in his own house. Notwithstanding that he had recently been laid aside by illness and thus prevented from pursuing his studies in such a progressive subject as cyanidation, he had never drifted away from his technical interests, and the fact that he was able to overcome this difficulty so that he remained an authority in his own branch of science and made up for lost time is evidence not only of good natural powers but of a resolute will. But however highly his technical work was appreciated by his colleagues, it was not this alone which secured for him the popularity he undoubtedly possessed. In the course of years he had made many friends who were not in a position to have been impressed by the value of his original investigations. To his charm in private life may chiefly be attributed
also
"'
70
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
kindness of heart endeared him to many of those with he came in contact, and it was because of this unselfish disposition in daily life, more than from the patient and laborious labours of a hard scientific career, that he received so warm a welcome in different parts of the world. The mark he made on his generation sprang from his personality, and was shown not so much by his book or his researches, valuable as these were, as by his influence over his colleagues and other
whom
men.
CHAPTER
HOME
LIFE
VIII
AT TORQUAY AND TRAVELS

IN
ENGLAND
truly adequate impression of a man's character and worth can be based upon the external manifestations of his public life and his professional relations. It is in the relaxation of home life that these are best revealed and serve to picture what such a man really is. The following intimate account of the home life lived by Forbes Julian at Torquay will therefore help towards a better appreciation of the real man than a too insistent account of his professional pursuits and avocations. Despite the many demands on his time and attention he found frequent opportunities for much pleasant intercourse with friends and neighbours. Amongst the many visitors to " Redholme " were Miss Alice Zimmern, the authoress of " Tales from Old Greece," and Mrs. Buckley Fisher, the authoress of that popular work " The Fairyland of Science " ; while in the spring of 1903 Professor and Mrs. Barker, of Philadelphia, stayed at Torquay, Forbes Julian himself deriving the greatest enjoyment in discussing physics and chemistry with the professor, whose conversation he found most interesting and stimulating. In March of the same year Bishop Ryle, who had been transferred from the see of Exeter to that of Winchester, visited Torquay to deliver an address at the Pengelly Memorial Hall, and was a guest at " Redholme." That he quitted the west of England
71
NO
72
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
with great regret is shown by an extract from his from the Palace, Exeter, just before leaving, in which he says
letter, sent
:
shall
bitterly grieve
over
my
But the kindness of and consolation.
my friends
gives
me
severance from Devon. cause for thankfulness
In his
especially
address at Torquay Bishop Ryle dwelt on the power of the Resurrection and the
necessity of a constant realization of this great central truth of Christianity. The devotional spirit in which he spoke made itself felt by all present and riveted the attention of his hearers, as he expressed in simple but eloquent words the full and fearless teaching of " the faith once delivered to the saints." During the summer the Julians travelled up to London, attending a number of scientific lectures and conferences, and the Royal Society's conversazione. Lighter recreation was afforded by several attendances at Shakespearean performances at His Majesty's Theatre, but Forbes Julian was never an enthusiastic theatregoer, although as a Shakespearean student he derived much pleasure from the performances in question. He also greatly appreciated the Opera, his natural love of music having been developed and cultivated during his stay in Italy and Germany. Returning home in July, he and)Jiis wife were present at the Devonshire Association at Sidmouth, which was a most successful gathering. The valuable papers and reports given by the Rev. S. Baring Gould, Dr. Brushfield, and Mr. A. R. Hunt, being on subjects connected with the county, were attractive even to non-scientific hearers. Sir Edgar Vincent filled the presidential
chair with ability,

illustrated.
and
his
On
the
last
opening address was well evening a lecture open to
the public is generally given, and on this occasion Dr. Johnston-Lavis, one of the members (lately
HOME
LIFE AT
TORQUAY
73
Professor of Volcanology in the Royal University of Naples), delivered an able lecture on " Vesuvius, the Type Volcano," v^rhich was illustrated with lantern
slides
made from photographs taken by Dr. JohnstonLavis himself under conditions of no little difficulty and danger. In September the Julians attended the meeting of the British Association, held that year at Southport, under the presidency of Sir Norman Lockyer. In the work of the Physical Science Section, where Professor Vernon Boys was chairman, and of the Chemical Section, under Professor Hartley, there was much that
aroused the metallurgist's enthusiasm. This meeting was the occasion of his first introduction to Sir William Crookes, Dr. Beilby, Dr. Divers, and other leading men, with whom he afterwards became better acquainted ; and he appreciated the opportunities of intercourse that the gathering afforded with so many well-known scientists, and also hearing their discussions of the various problems over which he had long pondered. During the stay at Southport he found time to visit the Westinghouse Works, and, moreover, to take The tour was his wife down a coal-mine near Wigan. short visit to the Lake district further prolonged by a and an expedition to the Isle of Man, undertaken in
company with their American friends Mrs. C. H. White, of Georgia. The
Professor and archaeological
remains, including the Runic and Celtic crosses and the ruined cathedral of St. Germans, with the Round Tower and Castle at Peel, were carefully inspected, being of exceptional interest. The mountain of Snae Fell was also visited and fine views obtained of the mountain ranges in England, Wales, Scotland, and Ireland, which can only occasionally be discerned in unusually clear weather.
74
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

archaeologist,
at
Returning ta Devonshire in the late autumn, a visit was paid to Mr. Brooking Rowe, the wellBarbican, being spent at Plymouth, the Christmas season
Castle
at
It
known
near
home
Torquay. was naturally a great pleasure to Forbes Julian to meet those who were well acquainted ynth South Africa, and when during 1903 Dr. Chandler, Bishop of Bloemfontein, stayed at Torquay much mutual enjoyment was derived from talking over many matters
of
travel in bullock
Colonial interest, recalling quaint experiences of wagons and mail-carts, sojourns in out-of-the-way farms, and wanderings over the veld. Writing after his return to Bloemfontein, the Bishop refers to the havoc wrought by the disastrous floods which had recently occurred in the Orange River Colony, and describes a good deal of Bloemfontein as having " been washed away by the terrible flood," and its course as marked by " ruins of houses and masses of corrugated iron." Other South African friends met with at Torquay were Sir Arthur Havelock and Mr. F. P. T. Struben. The former (a nephew of the heroic Sir Henry Havelock, of Mutiny fame) had been Governor of Natal, and to the latter and his brother, Mr. H. W. Struben, is ascribed by common consent the distinction of having discovered the Witwatersrand goldfields. It will readily be understood with what pleasure the metallurgist met one who had been so intimately associated with the early days of gold-mining on the Rand, and whose pursuits had been so much akin to his own. With the late Governor of
Natal he had also many interests in common. Sir Arthur's letters were ever welcome, and in like manner
his conversation always afforded pleasure.
The strength
of those
which connected Forbes Julian with South Africa and all the old associations with his
ties
HOME
early technical
LIFE
AT TORQUAY
75
work there were still closely felt by maturer years. During March he and his wife entertained her father's old friend Sir Robert Ball, who was lecturing on astronomy at different towns in Devonshire. Dean Pigou also visited Torquay about the same time and was their guest at " Redholme." The two visitors seemed glad to meet and exchange stories and anecdotes, and both appeared to draw on a perfectly
him
in his
inexhaustible
storehouse
of
narrative
and
varied
information.
One such anecdote

up
a
related to a compositor
who
set
sermon that was being printed for a perfervid preacher, who was niade to wind up a thrilling harvest " Doubtless I shall sermon with this fierce threat come again with rejoicing, bringing my shears with
:
me.".
Another story related to
local
magnate who,
having been asked to thank some speakers for their addresses at a missionary meeting, uttered a few platitudes quite successfully. Being anxious to display some flights of rhetoric, he tried to wind up by speaking of the great pioneers of missionary work, and said, " I recall vividly at this time those never-to-be" but stopped short, trying to forgotten names remember who the immortals were. " I repeat," he said again, " that I now vividly recall those never-tobe-forgotten names." Being unable to remember even one of them, he suggested to the audience for the " I have now to repeat to you that I third time recall vividly at the present time the never-to-be" forgotten names of of " Never-to-be-remembered names" was in everyone's mind, but at this crisis some compassionate person handed a paper on to the platform containing the names of half a dozen of the most prominent
:
ê
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
missionaries of the nineteenth century, and the unfortunate orator was able to bring his peroration to a
close.
The account of an old Cornishman named Josiah, whose performances had been related to the present writer by her father, amused the visitors. It was as
follows
life,
:
had lived an utterly reckless and boisterous and thus had earned the reputation of being a very bad old man but at length he turned over a new leaf, took to himself his fourth wife (a young creature, who brought him a new family), and lived as decently as the times demanded from a man of his accumulated years of bad habits. In order to show the decided character of his reformation he gave the firstborn son of his new family the name of Abraham. When the second arrived he was named Isaac. Of course there was no doubt as to the law of the father's intentions at the time ^the third son was destined to be called Jacob. But, alas for human intentions no third son was born to him. Most men under the circumstances would have succumbed, and said, " You see, my friends, what I meant to do, and will of course applaud me but you must take the will for the deed, as fate is against me." That, however, was not the mould in which Josiah was cast^ He snapped his
Josiah
;
fingers at fate, being resolved to
complete the patri-
archal trio and have a Jacob in his family. He accordingly bought a donkey and called him Jacob
and it is pleasant to record that Jacob performed his duties admirably and outlived both his seniors in
nomenclature. Another Cornish story concerned an old man named Searle, who was a heavy, lumpish fisherman, ordinarily far too lazy to do any kind of work with the exception of fishing. Most of his fellows had a plot of garden
HOME
LIFE AT
TORQUAY
77
which they cultivated at the odd moments which present themselves in the life of a fisherman, or they did at least a little smuggling in order to " earn an honest penny," as they termed it, and bring up a family comfortably. Searle abstained on principle from exerting himself, the principle being that known in Scotland and elsewhere under the expression of " I canna be fashed." Now and then, however, he would throw off a little of his sluggishness, not to work, but to have a pot or two of beer, the effect of
which was to loosen everything about him. His tongue manifested its freedom by informing the world, with an emphasis worthy an original remark, that " 'twas a sad heart that never rejoiced." His liberated legs invariably broke out into a dance, which, though never graceful, was always energetic, as indeed might be expected when so large an amount of suppressed action had to be expressed. He commonly preferred footing it on the table, but, whether there or elsewhere, always danced in his stockings, making the prefatory remark that his wife " could mend stockings, but not shoes." The history of one of Mr. Pengelly's early experiences in Torquay, when he was mistaken for a boon companion of the man he was trying to rescue, was also related. One evening about ten o'clock, when walking home, he had seen some large object lying in the road, and, approaching, found it to be a man fearfully
On being raised to his feet the inebriate immediately, but after many efforts he succeeded in giving his name and address. Being familiar with the district, his rescuer resolved on taking him home. The labour was by no means trifling, as the distance was fully two miles, the night was dark, and the man was heavy and utterly helpless. At length his house was reached at about one o'clock in the morning.
intoxicated.
fell
78
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

knock at the door was answered by
his wife,
A
"
with
:
whom
Is
the following pleasant conversation took place this your husband ? " "Yes, unfortunately. I
!
wish he was in heaven " "I found him lying in the and could do no less than take him home." " A pretty story to tell me No doubt you've been drinking with him." " Good-night, ma'am. Here's
road,
!
my card." And in this way he disposed of his charge

hers, for Mr. Pengelly's name was well known at the time to most of the inhabitants of Torquay as that
and
prominent total abstainer. Another story described a young fellow whom the geologist had taught gratuitously at a night school, the youth in question having apparently such insuperof a
mastering the mysteries of the likely he would never learn to read. The boy's father was, however, very anxious for him to be put into the writing class, and when met with the remark that " it was useless to teach anyone to write who could not read what he had written," replied, " You teach 'un to write, and I'll get somebody to read it safe enough." With two Irishmen present, Hibernian stories were naturally abundant, being related both by Sir Robert Ball and his host. One concerned an Irish carman who had been ordered by a party of six people to meet them at a wayside station either with a wagonette or two outside cars. On alighting from the train and seeing only one small solitary vehicle, they asked him in astonishment if they could all be accommodated " Dade, and you can," replied Pat in the car. imperturbably. " It's like this, there's room for four
able
difficulty
in
alphabet that
it
seemed
if
sit adjacent, and room for six if ye sit familiar." There was good sense as well as humour in the remark of a countryman who thus answered his master's charge that he had come to work very late one morning:
ye
HOME
LIFE
AT TORQUAY
79
" Sure I took the short cut, your honour, and 'twas that detained me." And the Irish maid-servant who was not an early riser, and so habitually late for Mass, was equally ready in repartee when she explained to those who taxed her with not being in time, " And it wasn't my fault, nor I that was late, but the praiste who wouldn't wait for me." An Irish bull, which really described very clearly the characteristics of a domestic servant fond of roaming about, was expressed in the following remark made by the girl's employer. " Where's Norah ? " asked the master of the house irritably one evening. " She's gone out again," replied the mistress
apologetically.
" Gone out again Confound that girl, she goes out twenty times for the once she comes in " exclaimed the long-suffering master, who wanted his supper. Another story gave an instance of the blarney of the Irishwomen who come out to sell lace to
!
!
travellers.
"Buy this Limerick lace for your wife, my pretty gentleman," said an old crone on one occasion. " How do you know that I am married ? " was the
reply.
'' Not married Buy it for your lady friends then," she replied, nothing daunted. " I have no lady friends," was the answer. " No lady friends and you so good-looking " came
! !
the ready retort in a tone of affected incredulity as to the truth of this statement. Sir Robert Ball's lecture at Torquay was appropriately delivered on St. Patrick's Day, and the extremely clear and luminous style of his address made the charming exposition of his favourite subject ai?
8o
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
enjoyment even to those hearers who had no great knowledge of astronomical science. Before he started for the lecture hall a local photographer who had discovered his presence came to the house and, after some difficulty, persuaded the
astronomer to be photographed.
He only
consented
on condition that his fellow-guests, Dean Pigou and the Honourable Helen Cubitt, with his host and hostess and her sister, should be photographed in a group with him. This was accordingly taken in the garden at " Redholme."
'<.
SCIENTIFIC
CHAPTER IX PAPERS AND MEETINGS.

OF CAPTAIN SCOTT
summer was
VISIT
meeting of the DevonTeignmouth Forbes at shire Association Julian and his wife returned home at the end of He was now beginning to take a prominent July.
after attending the
PART
of the
spent in London, and
useful part in the proceedings of the Torquay Natural History Society, and gave a paper before the members on " Electrolysis " at an evening meeting early in August. In reading, his voice was low-toned and pleasant, with a slight touch of hesitation. Much interest was manifested in this communication, not only by residents in the neighbourhood, but also by
and
his friends at a distance, particularly Professor Barker,
and Mr. Charles Neild of Manchester, the latter coming down from Lancashire to hear the paper and
the discussion thereon. After delivering this discou|*se he started with his wife for Cambridge, where the British Association assembled this month. The Prime Minister, Mr. Balfour, was President in 1904, and contributed to the value of the gathering by his thoughtful address and able chairmanship. The proceedings were of a high order of merit in Sections A and B, Professor Horace Lamb taking the chair in the section of Physical Science and Professor Sydney Young in that of Chemistry the papers contributed by Sir William Ramsay, Sir James Dewar, and Dr. Beilby at the latter section being especially noteworthy
81
82
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

who
rejoiced in every
to Forbes Julian,
onward step
made by
science.
A day was spent at Ely in seeing the magnificent Minster, that "most stately and varied cathedralchurch of the Fens," under the guidance of Dean Stubbs, and afterwards visiting Archdeacon Emery, the founder of the Church Congress. Many receptions were held during the week and tours of inspection made to the colleges, visits also being paid to Sir Robert and Lady Ball at the Observatory and to other friends amongst the professorial staff of the University. Early in the winter the Rev. Dr. Plummer, of Durham, gave some addresses on Church History at the Pengelly Memorial Hall, and Colonel Sir Thomas Holdich, of Afghan fame, lectured on Tibet at Torquay. They both came to " Redholme," where several friends interested in historical matters and in geographical research had been invited to meet them.
Soon
...
I
after this visit Sir
Thomas wrote from South
Kensington on December 14th

a lecturing tour in Scotland, and considerable arrears of correspondence. I shall always remember my pleasant visit to Torquay, and the time which I spent with you. ... I envy you the capacity for keeping in touch with those whose scientific work in the
have been away on
find
on
my return
am sending you a work on India, which I wrote five years ago the Clarendon Press pubUshed it, and you may find something of interest to you in it.
world
is
so interesting.
a geographical text-book
In December a Christmas party was given for Captain Robert F. Scott, who delivered an account at Torquay of his Antarctic travels, and in whose adventures all his fellow Devonians felt especial interest and pride. His lecture there, and at other places, was remarkably successful, and appealed not only to lovers of geographical discovery but to the general
SCIENTIFIC PAPERS
AND MEETINGS
83
The fact that the gallant sailor had penepublic. trated four hundred miles further south than anyprevious adventurer, and so much nearer the South Pole, sent a thrill of excitement through the British people and gave a new impulse to their desire for a fresh expedition, in the hope that the desired goal
might be ultimately reached. Many years had elapsed since the previous South Polar expedition, w^hich was so bravely undertaken by Sir James Ross and his companions. Their graphic accounts of the awful perpendicular cliffs of ice encountered had left a keen impression on the minds of those
interested in geographical exploration of the dangers and difficulties to be met with in the Antarctic, so that Captain Scott and his party naturally received an
enthusiastic
his
their intrepid heroism.
welcome from the whole country for At Torquay the thought of magnificent exploit and the modesty with which
he related his wonderful narrative held the attention of the whole audience spell-bound, as he described in simple language the story of the hardships that the members of the expedition had suffered, and the cheerful manner in which their privations had been borne. His was a feat worthy to rank high amongst the greatest geographical exploits an enterprise that has advanced the credit of Devon and shown that her sons are worthy successors of Drake, Raleigh, and
Hawkins in bringing distinction on the British flag, and that they are animated by the spirit of those great Devonians to whom England owes her prosperity, her religious freedom and records of heroism ^who defeated the Spanish Armada and helped to lay the foundations of our Empire. Driving back from ghe lecture, further details were given, and from ublin, whither he proceeded (to give a lecture on lis Antarctic experiences). Captain Scott wrote
84
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

''
expressing the pleasure that the visit to " Redholme had afforded him. He also lectured at Cheltenham and other towns
during December, and special interest for
Forbes
Julian and his wife was afforded to the description of the exploit on account of the presence of Dr. Wilson on the expedition, whose sketches exhibited in London had given them much pleasure. The doctor was
related
to
the
present
writer's
cousin,
:
who
on
December 5th wrote from Worcestershire,

thus to the
.
.
alluding
officers
on the Discovery
We are hoping to hear Captain Scott's lecture next . Saturday at Chehenham I have written to my cousin, Dr. Wilson, to get us tickets. His son, Dr. E. A. Wilson, was one of the medical officers on the Discovery and one of the three men who undertook the sledge expedition far away south. We were at Mill Hill for a few days about the middle of last month, and one afternoon we went to see the Antarctic Expedition Exhibition in Bruton Street it was most interesting and my cousin's sketches were lovely, such wonderful colouring and so cleverly done. . . .
; ;
These pictures helped all who saw them to realize the extraordinary fascination of the Polar region, its vast desolation, its mystery, beauty, and terror, with the weird snow and ice formations, strange clouds, and marvellous effects of light. In their second expedition Captain Scott, Dr. Wilson, and their brave companions clung to their project with British tenacity until the South Pole was reached. They and their companions, in fame and in death, have shed the light of their own heroism on the path of future explorers. Sir Arthur Havelock took much interest in the visit of Captain Scott, and wrote on December 6th from Kilmorie, Torquay:
It
My
is very good of you to ask us to meet Captain Scott. wife is writing also to say how very much we hope you
.
.

SCIENTIFIC PAPERS
will
AND MEETINGS
85
both be able to give us the pleasure of lunching with us neit Monday, when, if you will allow me, I will show you my collection of curiosities picked up in various parts of the Will you accept a copy of the December number world. of Longman^s Magazine, containing a paper on Japan by my brother-in-law, Mr. W. E. Norris ? . . .
. .
was at Lady Havelock's parties that they had met Mr. W. E. Norris, the well-known novelist who writes so agreeably about modern society, his characters being exceedingly well represented and
It
first
wonderfully
lifelike.
Other literary residents in Torquay at this time were Mr. Eden Phillpotts, the gifted exponent of
Dartmoor ; Miss Christabel Coleridge (a granddaughter of the poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge), the writer of " Lady Betty " and several other stories and Miss Mary Findlater, authoress of " The Rose of
Joy," v^dth her sister Miss Jane Helen Findlater, the writer of " The Green Graves of Balgowrie." It was always a pleasure to converse with them on literary topics, and some of the works of the modern school of Polish novelists, which were greatly attracting Forbes Julian, were new to Miss Findlater and her sister. Miss Jane Helen Findlater wrote in November
1904 from
L
i
Mount
Stuart,
Torquay:
... I hope to return your books soon, but as you said there was no great hurry about them, I am taking time to enjoy " The Children of the Soil," by Henryk Sienkiewicz, as it
deserves ; it is a wonderful book and seems to transport one into a new world. . . .
In addition to scientific matters, the metallurgist
was an enthusiastic and diligent reader of poetry and of contemporary European fiction. He had studied the great German and Italian writers whilst at Frankfort and Florence, and was well acquainted vdth the
86
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

,
For the Russian authors Tolstoi and of France. Tourguenieff with their imaginative power and philosophic insight, he had the highest admiration. He also enjoyed the works of several of the writers of
Holland
and
Jokai.
Hungary,
especially
Maartens
and
Maurus
work was " The Private Papers of Henry Ryecroft," that beautiful book that has found its way to the hearts of so many Devonians. Of all British novelists Thackeray was the most highly appreciated and most frequently read. The kindly wit and genial humour which give such an indescribable charm to the simple occupations and incidents of daily life as described in the works of Jane Austen and
favourite English
Mrs. Gaskell also afforded him unfailing pleasure. This winter some motoring expeditions taken vdth friends on Dartmoor in cool but brilliantly bright weather were much enjoyed. This vdld tract of uncultivated country, with the rugged granite tors,
hills and glens clothed with fern and furze, at all seasons exercised a great fascination over Forbes Julian, who delighted in the wildness and grandeur of moorland scenery. In January 1905 Professor and Mrs. Ayrton were at Torquay, when he had the pleasure of meeting this distinguished scientist and his accomplished wife. The Professor was looking forward to the approaching gathering of the British Association in South Africa, having promised to deliver a lecture at Johannesburg, and as the metallurgist was contributing a paper to the Chemical Section, they had some discussion on the subjects which mutually attracted them. The Professor also examined the little laboratory apparatus at " Redholme," and heard of the progress of his host's researches, with accounts of his labours, during the past two years of quiet work at home.
rushing torrents, and beautiful
SCIENTIFIC PAPERS
AND MEETINGS
warm
87
Visitors at Torquay during the winter included Sir Bernhard Samuelson and Sir John Hibbert, both these
retired
Members
of Parliament taking a
interest
that concern men rather than wealth, and which had always appealed strongly to Forbes Julian questions for which succeeding generations are likely to demand a still more prominent place. Others interested also in these important social matters who frequently visited
in those practical problems of
modern life
Torquay were Lord Ashcombe and Mr. Albert whom he met about the same time.
Pell,
He
felt
that
it
was necessary to inculcate a

teaching
real sense
of individual
their ideals
responsibility,
men
to raise
and expand their outlook, and to discountenance that anxiety for rapid results and hasty legislative makeshifts which constitutes a real menace His feeling was of the kind to a modern electorate. which would strive to bring home to the hearts of
others a sense of the sacredness of national life ; the and continuity of Britain's history, her traditions of disciplined freedom and her increasing colonial obligations in all parts of the world ; to
greatness
further a knowledge of the far-reaching responsibilities, as well as the advantages of good citizenship and loyal imperialism ; so that the vast empire may be built up on the social virtues of self-reliance, discipline, and
mutual trust. This had become his ideal during the long and extensive travels of former years. With the advent of spring other visitors arrived, and in March Lady Binns (the widow of the late
Premier of Natal) came to Torquay and visited ** Redholme," meeting Sir Arthur and Lady Havelock there, and talking over bygone days in South Africa and many subjects of imperial interest with them and her host, who, having lived in the colonial world, shared in and understood its aspirations.
88
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
After attending the annual general meeting of the Torquay Natural History Society (which he was committee), he and still serving as a member of his wife went to London, breaking the journey in Dorsetshire for the purpose of witnessing the Sherborne Pageant. This picturesque and novel event of the early summer was the first of a series of folk-plays and historical representations that have since become increasingly popular. Whilst in Town he was occupied with the various scientific engagements which were always so congenial. The Thursday afternoon meetings of the Royal Society and the annual soiree were attended at Burlington House through the invitation of the President, Sir William Huggins Dr. Wilson, of the Antarctic Expedition, being present at the latter gathering and giving a short address. During this visit to London preparations were made for an approaching voyage to South Africa, undertaken with other members of the British Association. A good many years had passed since Forbes Julian had been there, and he looked forward to the expedition with enthusiasm. But as the programme of the meeting was long and interesting, forming an important epoch in the yearly annals of the Association, the description of this journey must be told in the next chapter, with some account of the Paper which he read at Johannesburg before the members of the
Chemical Section.
CHAPTER X
WITH THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION
AFRICA
{Compiled from Mrs. Forhes Julian's Journals)
in July by the Durham comfortable steamer of the UnionLine, Forbes Julian and his wife
IN
SOUTH
LEAVING
Castle,
Southampton
SL
jI
Castle
found themselves amongst a pleasant band of scientists and old friends. These included Professor Penck, of Vienna, and other foreign savants, and several British professors and their families. After a few days at sea, Teneriffe was reached, and they were so anxious to secure the earliest glimpse of the Peak that they were up before dawn watching the gradual coming on of day and the steady development They were rewarded by seeing the of the land. beautiful sunrise, the snow-clad mountain, looking most glorious in a blaze of gold and crimson light, Soon aftercasting a brilliant reflection on all around. wards a crowd of people came on board with articles for sale, and boats appeared full of boys who dived for the coins thrown them by the passengers. Unfortunately Captain Moseley, the commander of the Durham Castle, could allow only a short time for landing at the port of Santa Cruz, where the cathedral A longer time was, however, is the chief attraction. permitted at Las Palmas, the capital of Grand Canary,
the
only other
drive was taken, the
stopping- place. Here a delightful town being inspected and the

89
90
fruit
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
market visited. It all presented a busy and animated scene. At the fine cathedral, which is of Spanish flamboyant style, the vestments and plate and at the museum and were shown to the visitors other public buildings everything was done to enable them to see all that was feasible during their brief
;
stay.
After leaving Las Palmas they were favoured with seas and lovely skies, and the weather was extremely warm for a few days, but became comparatively cool again before the landing at Cape Town. On crossing the Equator the usual festivities took place, including the impersonation of Father
smooth
Neptune.
long voyage was a period of relaxation to all. to the pleasure of meeting old friends and making fresh acquaintances amongst those bound for the same destination, there were many novel features which marked the trip as exceptional, especially the delivery of evening lectures by Mr. Oscar Browning, Professor Reynolds Green, and Admiral Maclear.
The
Added
Discussions also were raised on various scientific topics

in addition to the usual entertainments of a fancy
dress ball, several concerts, a
book
tea,
and games on
held on the South African liners. It was to be expected, with several naturalists on board, that those interested in marine zoology should enjoy seeing displays of the varied microscopic specimens collected from day to day, as the state of the sea changed and new forms appeared. This especially enlivened the monotony of the voyage ; and the sea-birds that floated and wheeled around, and the flying-fish, porpoises, whales, and sharks also attracted attention. Reaching Cape Town early in August, the travellers were greeted by Sir Colin and Lady Scott-Moncrieff,
deck such
as are generally
BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN
Professor
S.
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91
and Mrs. Cleland, and
few other members

of nationali-
who had sailed on the Kildonan Castle, The streets presented a great mixture
ties,
Europeans, Asiatics, and Africans being seen, and every shade of complexion from pure white to yellow, brown, and black. The beautiful district round Table Mountain was eagerly explored, the first week in Cape Town being a period of pleasant excitement to those who had not previously been in South Africa. Once again, after the lapse of ten years, Forbes Julian found himself in Cape Colony, and it afforded him great enjoyment to revisit many familiar spots ; he was able also to act as guide to his wife and various friends. The public buildings in Cape Town, including the Castle, the Parliament House, the Anglican and Roman Catholic cathedrals, the Mosque, the South African College, and other institutions, are worthy of attention, and were inspected vnth much interest. Service was attended at the Anglican cathedral, where Canon Crisp introduced himself to the visitors and conducted them over the beautiful Botanical Gardens, which, with the exotic and indigenous plants, form one of the most attractive places in the neighbourhood. On Tuesday, August 15th, the other members of the Association arrived on the R.M.S. Saxon, The inaugural meeting was held the same evening, when Professor George Darwin, the President, delivered the first part of his Address. The next day the business of the Sections commenced with the reading of Papers and the usual discussions ; and Forbes Julian, now on the committee of Section B (Chemistry), was somewhat closely engaged. On Wednesday afternoon Sir Walter Hely-Hutchinson. Governor of Cape Colony, received the members at Government House ; and the Mayor (Mr. Liberman) held a conversazione in the evening at the City Hall.
92
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
On Thursday the reading of Papers was again resumed, and degrees were conferred by the University of the Cape of Good Hope on the President and many distinguished British and foreign professors. The members also drove out during the week in the charming Cape carts (vehicles on two wheels, covered with
large hoods) to various places in the neighbourhood,
obtaining beautiful views from Table Mountain and visiting the Kloof Road, Sea Point, and Camps Bay. At every turn new features claimed their wonder and admiration, and they were delighted with the genial climate and the natural beauties of the district. One afternoon they were entertained at Groote Schuur, a fascinating old Dutch mansion, formerly famous as the home of Cecil Rhodes, and at this time the official residence of Dr. Jameson, who was unfortunately suffering from illness and absent in England. It was naturally a disappointment to Forbes Julian to miss seeing this friend of former years. The pleasure-grounds of Groote Schuur are charmingly situated at Rondebosch on the slopes of Table Mountain, and the house is exceedingly quaint and picturesque. The mountain itself is very striking with the straight level top from which its name is derived. The lower slopes are clad with fir-trees, and fine views can be obtained of the bright blue waters of the bay, greatly enhancing the beauty of the scene. The mountains and adjacent hills rise in magnificent terraces from 3000 to 4000 feet in
height.
On Thursday evening Professor Poulton, of Oxford, lectured on " W. J. Burchell's Discoveries in South Africa " ; and on Friday night a lecture entitled " Some Surface Action of Fluids " was delivered by Professor Vernon Boys. On Saturday, the 19th, a motoring expedition was taken to Houts Bay. The
visitors especially
S.
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93
enjoyed the drive round the fine scenery of Table Mountain, the harbour vîth its ships, the city wîth its busy streets, and the distant views forming a varied panorama. The Durham Castle sailed for Durban that evening, the Saxon having sailed on Friday, and as several of the members vêre anxious to spend the Saturday in Cape Town, whilst others wished to proceed sooner by the Saxon, some changes had taken place in the list of travellers on the two steamships. Several fresh friends were found on board the Durham Castle, including the President, Professor Darwin,
Admiral
Sir
William Wharton, and Sir David and
of Tuesday, August 22nd. It had been comparatively cool at Cape Town, and the warmer climate here, with the sub-
Lady Gill. Durban was reached on the morning
tropical character of the beautiful vegetation of Natal, was evidence of the great difference between the waters
Ocean and the colder Atlantic currents on the shores of Cape Town. Both in Cape Colony and Natal great hospitality was shown by residents to the members. On the day of arrival at Durban a reception was given by Sir Benjamin Greenacre, and an excursion was arranged on the following day, when the Sugar Mill at Mount Edgecombe (the largest in Natal) was visited. Durban is charmingly laid out, and there are fine Botanical Gardens here as at Cape Town, the trees and plants being even more beautiful and luxuriant. One of the chief attractions of the gardens is the Palm House, where many gigantic palms and dainty ferns are to be found. The fragrance and delicacy of the richly coloured flowers and shrubs and the gracefulness of the palms add inexpressibly to the charm of the scene in Berea and other environs of this beautiful
of the Indian
94
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
place, few towns having more romantic natural features than are presented by Durban and its surroundings. Before leaving the district the travellers
had the pleasure

at Berea.
of visiting their friend
Lady Binns
The important evening lectures given by Professor Herdman on " Marine Biology " and by Mr. Douglas Freshfield on " The Mountains of the Old World "
were popular and well attended. A novel experience was added to the journey whilst
at Mount Edgecombe by the spectacle of a series of war-dances performed by several hundred natives, the stalwart Zulus making a striking picture in all the war decorations of warriors ready for a fray. Some of them carried shields and staves, although it was considered prudent to forbid assegais. At the commencement loudly gesticulating men emerged, but later they were arranged in lines and groups, with a few head-men in advance. From these ranks gigantic and half-naked Zulu warriors sprang forward with flashing
eyes,
shouting,
bounding about, and slaying their
enemies in imaginary pantomime, whilst their excited comrades shouted back in response. The women applauded by clapping their hands and uttering wild and piercing cries. It was a strange display of barbaric revelry, one that must be seen to be fully realized. The visitors were thus able to witness some scenes of native life, as well as to study the metamorphosis from the savage to the civilized being. The following day at Henley a great Kaffir dance by a thousand natives was organized in the presence of the Governor. This further glimpse of primitive life was of exceptional interest. The dance consisted of the men advancing and retreating in line to the
accompaniment
stamping.
of much monotonous singing and The Ain-funze danced first, and were
S.
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95
Lof
followed by the Amampumuza, and they in turn by the Inadi. This curious spectacle was followed by another striking event, the marriage of Mhola, the hereditary chief of the Inadi tribe, to a fine-looking young woman, who was said to be of much lower rank than his own. The ceremony was lengthy, but was watched with curiosity by the visitors, and has been described in various papers. After leaving Durban the members were accommodated in the four special trains hospitably arranged for them. At Pietermaritzburg, the capital of Natal, they were received at a garden party given by Sir H. E. Macallum, the Governor ; and evening lectures were delivered by Colonel Bruce on " Sleeping Sickness " and Mr. Ferrar on the " Antarctic Regions." In this picturesque city, situated in a leafy hollow and commanded by hills on every side, the travellers enjoyed visiting the beautiful and well-timbered Alexandra Park and the bright and attractive Botanical Gardens. The two cathedral churches, St. Peter's and St. Saviour's, were visited. The remains of Bishop Colenso, the great scholar, repose beside the altar in St. Peter's. There has been a revulsion of feeling in recent years with reference to the subjects on which he wrote, and many earnest Churchmen now hold views far in advance of those once deemed too free and outspoken. Colenso's daughters still live at Pietermaritzburg and are great supporters of a generous policy towards the natives. After leaving this city the historic part of tlie journey commenced, the railway ride across the district of the Tugela being full of sad but inspiring memories the heroic dead and of the courage of our troops. Colenso and Ladysmith were the two stopping-places from which the battlefields of Natal were studied,
96
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

fatal field of
The
Colenso
its
is
full of
tions,
with
soldiers' graves
on every
mournful associaside a magnetic
spot by reason of
recollections of strenuous strife.
the Devonian travellers, Wagon Hill, near Ladysmith, was one of the most memorable spots visited, for here was made the magnificent charge of the Devons upon which, it has been truly said, the fate of the garrison, and perhaps of British rule in South Africa, hung for a time in the balance. The fight was hard and long, but at last our heroes swept the Boers " like chaff before the wind in unutterable confusion, and
at
To
length,
after
fifteen
hours' continuous fighting,
through mist and darkness, scorching heat and blinding hail and rain, foodless, parched, exhausted," they obtained that victory, the impulse of which reanimated the hopes of all the British people so anxiously watching
the fortunes of the war. The difficulties of the task before Sir Redvers Buller and the dangers and responsibilities with which Sir George White and the heroes of Ladysmith were confronted can be better understood after a visit to the battlefields and a study of the campaign on the spot. At Colenso and Ladysmith, owing to the limited hotel accommodation, the members slept on the four
which began to assume quite a homeThe train journey between Colenso and Ladysmith is probably the most striking in South Africa on account of the associations of the war, and many of the kopjes and krantzes held by Briton and Boer during the investment may be viewed in the neighbourhood. The fastnesses of the Drakensberg range, containing some of the grandest and wildest scenery in South Africa, can easily be visited from
special trains,
like
character.
Ladysmith. The three highest points are Giant's Castle and Mont-aux-Sources in Natal, and Cathkin Peak, just over the border, in Basutoland.
Several
S.
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97
members
interested in geology
left
and botany
or fond of
the party to make longer excursions, but as Forbes Julian was already well acquainted with the fine scenery of the Tugela River and the Drakensberg range he was more anxious to visit the noteworthy scenes round Colenso so that on the Sunday he went to and Ladysmith All Saints Church with its chancel and transepts in commemoration of the gallant dead. He also inspected Devons Post, Wagon Hill, and other places of enduring fame. The military defensive positions as well as the battlefields are marked by obelisks, and contain records of unique interest, together with the monuments in the town and the Intombi cemeteries. It will be remembered that as an advanced military post Ladysmith occupied a position of remarkable strategical importance on account of its situation, which commanded three sections of the railway line. The heroic part the defenders took during the war, when the town was besieged for four months by the Boer forces and subjected to frequent and heavy bombardment, and their invincible courage and determination, will never be forgotten. Nothing more gallant is told in the annals of war. Natal has great variety of scenery and several differing cHmates, in the warm low-lying valleys, breezy uplands, and lofty mountains respectively. The valley of the Tugela River contains numerous charming spots, and the fine hills, which branch out in lofty spurs, are broken here and there by perpendicular cliffs many hundreds of feet deep. The valleys are clothed with luxuriant verdure, whilst beautiful creepers climb among the rocks, hanging in festoons of crimson and yellow, thus forming an effective contrast to the dark green foliage of the tree-clad slopes.
;
mountain climbing here
98
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
It is a great change to travel from the coast, with the rich tropical vegetation, to the Drakensberg range,
with the hills studded with rocky outcrops and the well-wooded river-banks below, and then to pass on to the bare and boundless expanse of the veld. At Johannesburg, the next stopping-place, Forbes
and his wife had the pleasure of seeing his brother Charles. They had been concerned to hear on landing that the health of the latter had recently been very precarious ; but he had since rallied, and his doctor took a more favourable view of his progress As he was unequal to going to the at this time. meetings, they were the guests of Mr. and Mrs. Lavenstein, but the two brothers met daily during the Association week. On Monday, August 28th, an evening reception was attended at the Wanderers' Club, which afforded the travellers an opportunity of becoming acquainted with Received everywhere in their generous entertainers. South Africa with hearty hospitality, they were lavishly entertained throughout the week at Johannesburg. On Tuesday, August 29th, the business of the Association recommenced with the reading of addresses and papers. At Section B (Chemistry), which assembled at the Transvaal Technical Institute, the proceedings opened with the masterly address of the President, Dr. Beilby. This was followed by a paper from Forbes Julian entitled " How Oxygen Assists and Retards the Dissolution of Gold in Cyanide Solutions." In the discussion which followed, the chairman (Dr. Beilby), Dr. Divers, Professor Henderson, and others took part. The paper aroused much attention in the mining circles of Johannesburg, where practical science is so greatly in evidence and so highly valued, metallurgy, chemistry, and engineering alike assisting to develop the mining industry.
Julian
>
S.
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In an account of the work of the Chemical Section of the British Association in South Africa, given in
Nature
for
October 26th, 1905,
it is
stated:
... A very active part in the work of the Section was taken by South African chemists, and almost without exception the reading of a paper was followed by an animated and
interesting discussion.
proceedings of the Section were inaugurated by the address of the President, which was of quite exceptional interest. It was followed by a paper by Mr. H. F. Julian, in which an investigation of the part played by oxygen in the dissolution of gold by cyanide solutions was The author arrived at the conclusion that free described. oxygen plays no primary part in the reaction, any assistance given being of a secondary nature, and that, as a matter of
it exerts a retarding influence. According to his experiments, while the balance indicates that free oxygen is of material assistance, the galvanometer points to its presence hindering the dissolution of the gold ; the cause of the disagreement between the instruments he attributes to the formation of local voltaic circuits.
... ... At Johannesburg the
fact,
The
paper
selected papers,
was printed in extenso with other which were published specially by the
South African Association.
An
abstract
of
it
also
appeared in the British Association Report for 1905. Numerous old friends welcomed him back to the city, which he was glad to revisit after an absence of many years, being eager to note the changes that had taken place during the stirring events of the past
decade. The energy, enterprise, and intelligence of the population of Johannesburg make it a most remarkable city to visit, the mental atmosphere being extremely stimulating. Amongst those who took an active part in the meetings was Lord Selborne (Governor of the Transvaal and Orange River Colony), who welcomed the members
ISO
100
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
the afternoon of the 29th. That evening Professor Ayrton gave a brilliant lecture at St. Mary's Hall on " The Distribution of Powder." Wednesday, the 30th, v^âs again spent in hearing papers and discussions, and in the evening Professor Darwin delivered the concluding part of his address, the first part having been given at Cape Tow^n. An expedition to Pretoria made on Thursday, August 31st, afforded many of the members an opportunity of seeing the famous Premier Diamond Mine but as Forbes Julian vâs arranging to visit it later, he devoted the day to shovîng his wîfe various public buildings in the former Boer capital, the Museum and the Zoological Gardens, as well as the Government Departments, specially claiming their attention. The members were entertained at luncheon at the three principal hotels, and Sir Arthur Lawley, LieutenantGovernor of the Transvaal, afterwards received them at Government House. About a month later the second visit was made to Pretoria, and on that occasion there was sufficient time to see the city thoroughly and go over the Raadzaal, the Law Courts, President Kruger's house, and the church where he used to offer his devotions. At the cemetery the graves of many British soldiers were seen, including that of a grandson of Queen Victoria (a son of Princess Christian), all these restingplaces of our brave warriors being tenderly cared for by the members of the Loyal Women's Guild.
The
city
is
situated in a beautiful valley encircled
by hills, the healthy climate and agreeable surroundings

giving assurance of a prosperous future for the pleasant capital of the Transvaal. On Friday, September ist, an excursion for a few of the members was planned by special train to visit Vereeniging at the invitation of Messrs. Lewis and
S.
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loi
Marks. The latter was a brother-in-law of their host, Mr. Lavenstein, and Mr. Marks kindly drove the present writer to visit the plantations, orchards, and farms of the Vereeniging Estate, whilst Forbes Julian went with others who were inspecting the collieries and brick and tile works. In the evening they joined the rest of the party on the British Association trains, and then proceeded to Bloemfontein. The tiny town of Vereeniging is situated on the Vaal River at the point where the railway line enters the Transvaal. It derives its chief importance from having been the place where the Articles of Peace were agreed upon by Lord Kitchener and the Boer leaders. The Vereeniging Estate is situated partly in the Transvaal and partly in the Orange Free State.
The
district is noteworthy to geologists, for there is abundant evidence of glacial action in the conglomerate which forms the base of the coal beds. Striated boulders and erratics are plentiful, and root-markings are to be seen at right angles to the bedding planes. The fossil plant remains of this district are worthy of attention, and also the stone implements found on the banks of the Vaal River, which (through the kindness of Mr. Leslie) were shown to the visitors. The next stay was in the Orange Free State, Sannah's Post and Tweespruit being visited, as well as Bloemfontein, the capital. Here Bishop Chandler welcomed them with much kindness and a garden party was given at the Residency. The Raadzaal, National Museum, and other important institutions were also inspected. The cathedral is small, but appears to be well attended. As a rule Churchmanship is High in South Africa the bishops and clergy are active workers, and have evidently been appointed not by favour but by merit. The Orange Free State is essentially a pastoral
; ;
"
102
district,
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
and seems progressing in a satisfactory manner. colony consists of an immense tableland, with an Although the river-banks area of 50,000 square miles. are wooded, few trees are to be seen in the intervening country, with the exception of those surrounding the widely scattered farms. In the early part of the nineteenth century the land was covered with game, but now many species have unfortunately disappeared. Blesbok and the graceful springbok are still to be seen, but the few remaining herds of hartebeest and wildebeest have to be strictly preserved. Diamonds, gold, iron, copper, coal, and petroleum are found in varying amounts in different parts of the Colony, although the proximity of Kimberley and the Rand mines has hitherto tended to overshadow this mineral wealth. A short time was spent at Kimberley, and the thoughts -of the travellers naturally dwelt much on the heroism shown during the horrors of the protracted siege. The city was reached on September 5th. Here the diamond mines were inspected, and the fine specimens at the De Beers' office were shown to the visitors. A lecture given at the Town Hall in the evening by Sir William Crookes on *' Diamonds attracted a crowded audience, comprising scientists of various departments and a large sprinkling of the general public. As many people were unable to obtain admission, he repeated the discourse, with its clear statements and happy illustrations, on the following afternoon. Several receptions were held at Kimberley, one being given by the Loyal Women's Guild. Much interest was taken both here and at Johannesburg in the Kaffir and Chinese compounds, which were found to be well built and maintained, the labourers being properly looked after in sickness or accident. Their food and water supply appeared very good, and Sir Lauder
The
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Brunton, Dr. Wiseman, Dr. Gaskell, and other medical men (who were with the Association party) were impressed by the general excellence of the arrangements made for the comfort of the workers. The Chinese, however, were not free labourers, but were indentured for specific duties for a specific time. They appeared fairly honest, hard-working, and frugal, and although some outrages no doubt occurred, this was to be expected when so large a body of rough working-men were kept under severe restraint in a strange country. In England the Chinese question was so warmly debated and made so entirely into a political matter that the heated discussions which took place must be well remembered by everyone, and any further reference to the matter is unnecessary. The tour of the British Association was concluded by visits made on the four special trains via Mafeking to Buluwayo and the Victoria Falls, which Forbes Julian had been amongst the first few white men to visit, as already described. It was stated that he was the only member of the Association who had previously been there. The opening of the bridge over the Zambesi River by the President, Professor George Darwin, on September 12th, was a memorable occasion not only as marking the completion of a triumph of engineering skill, but also on account of its importance strategically. Forbes Julian and his wife spent the rest of September with his brother Charles at Johannesburg. They also visited Mr. Edgar Smart on the East Rand, and Mr. and Mrs. Rintoul at Turifontein. As their hostess belonged to a Boer family, they had the opportunity of meeting her brother. Commandant Mostert, of General Cronje's staff, and the two Misses Joubert, who were also guests at Turffontein. The consideration shown by General Joubert for
104
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
the British sick and wounded will always be gratefully remembered. His charming nieces spoke of the distress the opening of the war had caused him in the short time before his death, which came so speedily
labours
the result of severe General Botha was another family friend of Mrs. Rintoul, and a fellowtraveller with Forbes Julian during a journey from Johannesburg to Pretoria. Nothing could exceed the kindness of Mr. and Mrs. Rintoul or the hearty welcome of Mr. Edgar Smart, and it naturally afforded Forbes Julian great gratification to meet these old friends and discuss with his colleague the results of those investigations they both found so attractive and at which they had worked together so long and earnestly. When inviting the " I hope you will be able Julians Mr. Smart wrote to stay for a few weeks, if you can stand a sort of locaA bachelor's menage is, of course, somewhat tion. lacking in many of the adjuncts of civilization ; but I can guarantee you a chair each, a fire, table, carpet,
hostilities as
after the
outbreak of
and extreme anxiety.
and some pictures."

Before leaving the Transvaal an expedition was The travellers saw to Krugersdorp, in October. the beautiful waterfalls in the neighbourhood, visiting also the Strubens' farm and the scene of the Jameson Raid, and making other excursions in the district, together with long drives on the veld. At Krugersdorp they inspected the Paardekaal Monument, which commemorates the defeat by the Boers of the celebrated Zulu chief Dingaan. The town is situated on the northern slopes of the Witwatersrand, and has a fine view of the lofty Magaliesberg mountain range. Time was also found for meetings with many old friends and for visiting several mines ; so that Forbes Julian was enabled to gather much valuable informa-
made
S.
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tion as to recent work that had been undertaken, and to learn a great deal concerning researches and experiments that had been carried out in metallurgical and
mining matters since
his earlier visits.
journey to the coast was made by way of Bloemfontein, Norval's Point, De Aar, and Matjesfontein. Passing at first through the rolling grassy plains of the Transvaal and Orange Free State, the scenery is somewhat monotonous ; the bridge over the Orange River at NorvaPs Point marks the boundary between the Orange Free State and Cape Colony, and the district of the Great Karroo (a plateau of one thousand to two thousand feet in height) is exceedingly barren and desolate. However, as soon as the railway route begins descending through the Hex River Pass the scenery becomes very beautiful. From the summit at Triangle (a height of more than three thousand feet), fine views are obtained of the valleys below, and the line can be seen circling for miles round the foot of the mountain. At Worcester, Wellington, and Paarl vine culture is carried on, the foliage and flowers also being
rich
The
and varied. At Cape Town a pleasant visit was paid to Sir David Gill at the Observatory. The weather in the latter part of October was much warmer than it had been when they landed early in August so they were thus enabled to enjoy the fine scenery of Table Mountain more fully than on the previous visit, as well as to see the varieties of heath and the beautiful lilies which grow as plentifully as weeds on the slopes of the
;
^H
mountain.
H| ^B ^m ^B
England by the Dunluce Castle^ they had nearly a month at sea. They decided to take the longer route home, wishing to spend a day at St.
Sailing for
Helena, on account of
its
associations
with Napoleon.
io6
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Longwood during the
and
his burial in
latter part of the island invest this rock of the ocean with deep historic interest, although Napoleon's body now rests beneath the gilded dome of the Invalides. Other reminiscences were connected with one of the Boer commandants who had been a prisoner of war at St. Helena and whom the travellers had recently met in the Transvaal, when he had
His residence at
his life
related to
them many
of his experiences.
birthday of His Majesty King Edward, November 9th, occurring whilst they were at sea, some young English officers returning home on leave avowed their intention of " standing no nonsense " and making a German baron on board drink the King's health at dinner. Fearing that this proposition might be put in an ungracious manner, Forbes Julian, who was at the same table with the German, in addition to drinking his own Sovereign's health, bowed to the baron, and said, " I drink also to the health of the Emperor of Germany, and recall with much pleasure the kindness shown to me by his subjects in Germany." " And I
drink the health of King Edward," said the baron in " As response ; but he added to the present writer I think that my Emperor and your King are not very good friends at present, I should not have done so if your husband had not also proposed and honoured the toast to my Emperor." The incident therefore passed off happily, but the young officers were naturally somewhat disappointed at the collapse of their scheme for creating a piquant situation.
:
The
steamer also stayed for a short time at Ascenthis added to the variety of the voyage. Dr. Holbeach, the Bishop of St. Helena, was visiting this other island of his diocese, and was the only passenger who remained at this lonely outlying station of the Empire. His congenial companionship was
sion,
The
and
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107
much missed on board. The steamer anchored at midday, and during the afternoon, after the dispatch of the mails, passed on her course to the Canary Islands. Here a day was spent before proceeding to England, and towards the end of the year the travellers landed The outward voyage to the Cape at Southampton. and Durban and the return voyage to England had been thoroughly enjoyed. The time spent in the Transvaal had augmented Forbes Julian's knowledge of that science which he loved so well, and enabled him to return with increased experience to his scientific and Hterary work whilst the opportunity of revisiting scenes well remembered and of introducing his wife to his brother and to old mining friends, and showing
;
beautiful places in Cape Colony and him much pleasure. Throughout been traversing ground already well the tour he had known, and it was therefore doubly delightful to
her also
many
Natal, had afforded
'
the lapse of so many The kindness years, and to revisit them with the friendships with shown by their colonial hosts and men of science made on the steamers and special trains also added greatly to the agreeable recollections of an eventful journey, which included many memorable
revisit these places again after
his wife.
sights
and
scenes.
In a letter written immediately after landing he briefly describes the passage home
:
a very pleasant voyage on the Dunluce Castle ; it was slightly rough, about half a gale, for two days after leaving Cape Town, and it was again rough after leaving Las Palmas, but the remainder of the voyage was very smooth, the bay and channel being as placid as a lake. We had some hours' stay at St. Helena. We arrived at Ascension at midday, sailing right round the island. It is a naval station, and occupied by about fifty bluejackets and a few officers. Passengers are only able to land by special permission. We had a whole day at Las Palmas. On arriving at
.
We
had
io8
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
Southampton we were met with a fog, and since then it has done nothing but rain. We greatly miss the bright African
sun.
time, some allusion
In another letter to a friend, written about the same is made to the Association tour
:
My wife and I have recently returned from South Africa, where we have been with the British Association. Altogether about four hundred members went from England, and were treated right royally by everyone. The party probably contained the largest number of eminent scientists who have The voyage left the British Isles together at any one time. was made exceptionally pleasant by intimate association with
so
many
It
leaders in science.
Some
Cape Town and Johannesburg were unusually

me.
extenso.
of the papers read at interesting to
has been decided to publish several of them in I read a paper on " How Oxygen Assists and Retards the Dissolution of Gold in Cyanide Solutions." Several important lectures were delivered ; that by Professor Ayrton at Johannesburg on " The Distribution of Power " was eminently successful, and the lecture by Sir WiUiam Crookes on " Diamonds " at Kimberley was marvellous, every
...
experiment going off without a hitch. . Johannesburg has grown out of all recognition, many of the buildings resemThere are far more Jews bling those of an American city. I went over to the Premier Mine there now than formerly. with David Rintoul, and I spent some time on the Rand,
. .
and
also
The
dust
went down to the Old Rand Central Works. is as bad as ever and the climate as glorious.
of
Amongst other letters
welcome received on landing

:
was the following from Professor Harley
Athenûm Club,
London.
thanks for your kind letters from Cape Town and Johannesburg, with accounts of your travels and the generous treatment received. Everything turned out from first to last in a way that seems like a dream of romance. The
Many
Town, Durban,
S.
AFRICA
109
descriptions of the long journeys and impressions of Kimberley, Pretoria, Bloemfontein,
Cape
&c.,
are most interesting, with the accounts of the extremes of temperature and the tremendous deserts of arid sand, barren and bare beyond all conception. What will become of their
present magnificence
when the gold and diamonds
are
worked
out
Sir David Gill, whose labours, kindness, and tact had been so instrumental in contributing to the
successful character of the meeting, thus briefly alluded
some time
later to the good results of this South African expedition (Presidential Address to the British Association at Leicester, 1907)
:
this
I wish to take opportunity of saying that this Southern visit of the Association has, in my opinion, been productive of much good ; wider interest in science has been created amongst colonists, juster estimates of the country and its problems have been formed on the part of the visitors, and personal friendships and interchange of ideas between thinking men in South Africa and at home have arisen which cannot fail to have a beneficial influence on the social, political, and scientific relations between these colonies and the mother country.
Having only recently come from the Cape,
CHAPTER XI
THE UNITED STATES REVISITED
THE
return to Torquay in December was saddened by the intelligence of the death of Charles Julian, in whose health there had been
apparently great improvement before his brother left South Africa, so that the news which reached England by cable came as a great grief, as past fond memories of their childhood crowded on his mind. The beginning of the year 1906 found Forbes Julian in London with his wife, and turning to the fresh work which lay before him, for his publishers, Messrs. Charles Griffin and Co., were anxious to bring out a second edition of the book on Cyaniding by Mr. Smart and himself. This necessitated much work in the metropolis, while the fresh facts obtained in South Africa enabled him to write with the authority of one who had seen for himself, not of one who merely quotes from others and the recent time spent on the Rand with Mr. Smart helped to keep him and his fellow- worker in touch for successfully collaborating their undertaking. His life was cast at a period of great importance in metallurgy, and every year helped to broaden the base on which the science was being built up. Amongst those whom he consulted as to fresh matters of interest in connection with the book were Mr. E. G. Banks, Mr. Hamilton, Mr. Merrill, and Mr. J. R. Williams. On January iSth, 1906, he wrote to Mr. Merrill as
;
follows
no

I
in
have recently returned from South Africa after a verymining districts, where I have acquired some useful information in connection with cyaniding. The size of the plants has increased considerably since my former visit and the cost of treatment has been somewhat reduced.
interesting tour over the
There is now a great movement for fine crushing, owing . . to the fact that the, cost of treating slimes has fallen below that of sands treatment, but there is much still to be done before the advantages of this change can be established beyond
.
doubt. ... Before I left for Africa, some seven months ago, my publishers informed me that the first edition of " Cyaniding, &c.," was exhausted, and asked me to prepare a second edition. I have that now in hand, and am pushing on with it as fast as time will allow. I should be much pleased to hear from you such particulars of the important work you have been doing as you may wish to submit for publication under your name as the authority.
Writing to Mr. Hamilton during January 1906, he

says
I have been travelling with the British Associaspent a considerable time on the Rand observing the changes on the mines, particularly in connection with cyanide. Some of the plants are exceedingly large and substantially built, but there is not much new in the sands treatment. In the slimes treatment things have been developing until the costs have been reduced materially below that of the sands treatment. ... I have managed to collect some valuable information for the second edition of our book, which is now in preparation. If you have recorded any fresh work , I shall be very pleased to hear of it as soon as convenient, or of any matters of interest in connection with cyaniding that
My wife
and
and
tion,
have come under your notice.
The engrossing character of the work may be gathered from one of his letters to Mr. Smart, to whom he wrote about this time
:
I am at present plunged in the midst of revising the book, and from the enormous amount of new matter relating to
112
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
cyaniding that has appeared during the last two years, the and bringing up to date promises to be nearly as great a task as writing the original. We shall have to expunge a great deal of the book, and shorten the longer articles in order to keep the size down. The chapter on costs of working ought, I think, to be reduced to mere summaries, so as to use the space with more interesting data. ... I shall be able to produce a short chapter on roasting. ... I have already in the rough about forty thousand words which will require
revising a
good deal of boiling down.
In May an interesting evening was spent at the annual dinner of the Society of Authors, when excellent speeches were contributed by Lord Curzon, Mr. Bernard Shaw, and Mr. Anthony Hope, there being the additional pleasure of meeting a large circle of friends at the banquet. June was passed at Torquay, and in July Forbes Julian returned to London, having accepted the post offered him by his old friend Mr. Charles Butters of consulting engineer to his company. With continued health and strength, his intellectual vigour was gradually turning back into the former channels, and as far as professional labours were concerned this responsible post was destined to be his work for the next six years, until the close of his life, since it was while going abroad in the service of the company, at the urgent request of Mr. Charles Butters, that he met his death on the titanic. Although associated ^mxh. the firm on terms that should leave time for his ovm labours, he was now more tied to routine work and had to be frequently in London conducting technical matters for the company with his usual patient care. Fortunately, he had almost completed the revision and extra work entailed by the second edition of his book on Cyaniding, which appeared early in the following year, 1907. Although the strong tide of life and work during
113
the winter kept him much in the metropolis, yet he frequently returned to Torquay, as he greatly preferred the country to being altogether in town ; so that the engagements of London did not dispossess other interests at home. In January Dr. Cosmo Lang, Bishop of Stepney (the present Archbishop of York), visited Torquay to plead for assistance for the hard-working toilers of Such visits had the south and east end of London. previously been paid by him in former years, and in this undertaking the Julians had long taken a keen interest, and had been to hear the Bishop's eloquent speeches and sermons in Torquay ; they had also met him in town. The metallurgist's technical studies never absorbed all his energies, and he heartily sympathized
in social
his
work and gladly
assisted
whenever
it
lay in
power, for he was the last to rejoice in the happiness of his own home without thought of what lay beyond. In the early part of the year 1907 the death occurred of his brother-in-law. Captain Louis Maxwell, the
husband of
his wife's elder sister.
many
interests in
The two men had common and were friends in the
to him.
true sense of the word, and this loss was a great sorrow Major -General Patrick Maxwell, B.S.C., the
Captain's father, had passed
away
at
Bath only
few
months
previously.
Easter, which fell early this year, was spent at Torquay, but Forbes Julian and his wife returned to London for the remainder of the spring. Brief visits to Lady Burdon-Sanderson, at Oxford, and to Farnham Castle, on the occasion of a party given by Bishop and Mrs. Ryle, were paid during the summer, the beautiful grounds and the famous library and historic chapel at Farnham being inspected with much pleasure ; and also the well-remembered colleges at Oxford. Closely engaged in metallurgical inquiries and also
114
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
occupied with other professional matters in London during the rest of the season, the return to Devonshire was not made until the end of July, when the County Association, which assembled at Axminster, was attended, the President this year being Dr. Robertson, bishop of the diocese, whose scholarly address was followed with much interest. The meeting of the British Association was held at Leicester early in August, when Sir David Gill was
President,
as well as
now
and threw much heartiness and brightness wisdom into his happy chairmanship. Being member of the General Committee as well as
committee of the Chemical Section, Forbes Julian was able to take some part in the work of the Association. noteworthy feature at Leicester was
of the
between the Chemical and Engineering Sections on " Explosion Temperatures." Papers at the Physical Science Section given by Sir William Ramsay, Sir Oliver Lodge, and Professor Larmor also engaged his attention, for at many points physics and chemistry meet and blend, and the most conspicuous developments of the latter science during recent years have been on the physical side, and have produced most fruitful results. His mind was in many ways innovating and progressive, and he was always ready to entertain new ideas ; but his conclusions were the reverse of hasty, and he was ever on the alert lest he should fall into error either in observation or inference. Leaving Leicester for London immediately after the dispersion of the gathering, he wrote to his wife concerning the large amount of work that lay before him, saying : "I have been very closely occupied, and can see a great deal of work looming in the near future." Early in September he returned home for a short time, when some friends were invited to meet Lieutenant (now Sir) Ernest Shackleton, who was
a joint discussion

residing in Devonshire before starting
115
on
his
South
Polar
Many matters concerning the expedition. expected enterprise were discussed with the intrepid explorer who was leaving England to imperil his life
endeavour to extend our geographical knowledge and plant the British flag in untrodden regions near the Pole.
in this
Other visitors at Torquay this month were Canon and Mrs. Austin, from Jamaica. They gave graphic accounts of the havoc wrought by the earthquake there and the vridespread distress occasioned in consequence. The Canon came to England to collect funds for the sufferers. The meeting held at the Pengelly Hall aroused much sympathy, the appeal Many further leading to hearty and generous support. details of the tragedy were also related during their short visit at " Redholme," twelve hundred persons having been killed at Kingston and many thousands injured in the wrecked and ruined city. At this time Forbes Julian was looking forward to spending the autumn and winter in London and Torquay, but an unexpected cable from America The message he received was altered all his plans. from Mr. Charles Butters, inviting him to go to New York on professional matters connected with their " Patent Vacuum Filters."
The
Butters
filter is a
for separating solutions of cyanide of gold finely divided
highly specialized appliance from the
kare main.
and clayey " slimes " which are produced in considerable quantity during the crushing and cyanidation of gold ores. It is a development of the " leaf " form of filter, and in essentials consists of a series of hollow frames, the outer surfaces of which formed of filter cloth, suitably supported, whilst their interior spaces are connected up to a vacuum
ii6
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

number
of these units are
immersed in the slime-
This sucks the goldpulp and the vacuum applied. through the filter cloths into the bearing solution hollow interiors (and thus removes it for the subsequent recovery of its dissolved gold by precipitation), whilst the earthy slimes are retained in the form of a gradually accumulating cake upon the outer surfaces of the filter cloth. When a sufficient cake-thickness has been attained and the residual gold solution therein has been washed out by water, the barren material is discharged from the filter-cloth surfaces by replacing the vacuum
by
positive
air-pressure.
The
clean
filter is
now
ready to deal with another charge of gold-bearing
Simple
as
the device
its
may
appear from this outline
great practical success has only resulted from a long series of developments by the metallurgists
description,
of
Mr. Charles Butters' staff, operators on other goldfields.
in
connection with
The details of the apparatus are many and complex, and have required years of painstaking work at the hands of skilled experimentalists. The journey was hastily arranged, as it was only in the middle of September that Mr. Butters cabled from America to Forbes Julian begging him to come out to New York immediately. As his wife decided to accompany him, she left Torquay at once and joined him in London en route for Southampton, having only a couple of days in which to prepare for the voyage and for a sojourn abroad that lasted four months. As none of the few letters written by Forbes Julian at this period have been preserved, the account of their tour has been compiled from the journals kept at the time by Hester Julian, which record notices of some of the institutions inspected in New York and
117
the acquaintances made, together with descriptions of visits to other American cities during the brief The account is given interludes of his scientific work. almost as vîtten in the diary with only a few additions, and has therefore been left in the first person.
Compiled from Mrs. Forbes Julian's Journals

"
My husband and I left Southampton in September
1907, and as the * Fall ' is the period when large numbers of Americans are returning from their tours in Europe, we discovered on getting on board our steamer, the Saint Louts, of the American Line, that we were the only European passengers in the saloon, all
the others being apparently Americans, with the exception of a high-caste Hindu gentleman and his wdfe, with whom we often conversed, to the great , disgust of our friend, Mr. a Southerner, who more than once remonstrated politely but firmly on demeaning ourselves by talking to ' those our coloured people.' " We had a very comfortable cabin with a private bath-room attached, this being the state-room which Li Hung Chang had occupied during his memorable voyage on the Saint Louis some years before. " husband and I, being good sailors, were much on deck, and we soon made the acquaintance of several extremely pleasant American fellow-passengers. " After having a stormy voyage, the weather became beautiful the day we landed, and we received a most favourable impression of the American coast, everything looking brilliant and being bathed in bright sunshine. Our American friends pointed out the Brooklyn Bridge (connecting Brooklyn with New York, the largest suspension bridge in the world), the statue of Liberty, the skyscrapers, and other prominent
' '
My
118
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
objects which are especially striking when seen from the water. " After landing and settling down at our hotel we had much to see, when the exigencies of professional work allowed my husband to accompany me.
"There are numerous noteworthy institutions and public buildings in New York which particularly attracted us. The Natural History Museum is full of interest, the collections being carefully and methodically arranged and catalogued ; the geological collection, which we especially studied, being admirably grouped in a scientific manner that deserves the highest
The Museum of Art is another imposing building and possesses an extremely fine collection of beautiful pictures, the galleries devoted to sculpture, architecture, and antiquities being also of a high order
praise.
of merit.
" At the Lenox Library there was a fine collection and other rare incunabula, and some valuable missals, including a copy of the Sarum Missal, and a large collection of autograph letters of exceptional
of early Bibles
interest.
"
We
visited all these institutions
on
several occa-
sions,
spending many hours at each ; but saw very few people at the Natural History Museum, fewer still at the Museum of Art, and hardly any visitors at all at the Lenox Library, where the attentive custodian seemed so delighted by our enthusiasm for the exhibits under his charge that he begged us quite pathetically
to
visit
New
open
free to the public
York again soon. All these places were and centrally situated, so that
the small attendance surprised us, for the collections might be expected to attract the casual passer-by as well as the serious student. " Amongst other buildings inspected may be mentioned the Old and New Colleges, Barnard College,

the
119
the the
Normal College, and the fine Columbia University. We visited

St.
library
several
of of
churches in New York, the older ones, Mark's and St. Paul's, being the more interesting. At the latter we were shown the pews of Washington and of the brave but unfortunate Major Andre. We also attended the Episcopalian cathedral of St. John the Divine, where the services were held in the crypt as the cathedral will not be completed for some time. Grace Church and the small church of the Transfiguration are both well worth visiting, and also the churches of the Heavenly Rest, of the Ascension and Incarnaprincipal
tion,
which are
all
structures.
Trinity,
handsome and well-built modern which is near Wall Street in the
heart of the business of the city, has been rebuilt, but the churchyard contains several graves of early colonials. " The funds for building the Roman Catholic cathedral dedicated to St. Patrick, in Fifth Avenue, were raised chiefly through the contributions of the Irish residing in New York, many of them only poor chambermaids and waiters at the various hotels. It is a beautiful edifice and does honour to their religious enthusiasm. The Baptists, Congregationalists, Presbyterians, Methodists, and other religious bodies have
^m
^B ^H ^B ^H
numerous imposing places of worship and at the Russian and Greek Orthodox churches we saw some good eikons. We went also to the chief synagogue. One afternoon my husband and I visited General Grant's tomb, which is situated on the beautiful Riverside Drive, overlooking the Hudson. I was interested in recalling the fact that the General had visited Torquay and that my parents had been invited to meet him.
also
;
"
We
landed just in time for the

tints,
full
glory of the
which are so particularly rich and beautiful in North America, the splendid colouring of
autumn
120
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
the foliage in the closing year showing every shade from brightest crimson to mellow brown and golden orange. We much enjoyed the drives by the Hudson River and the walks in the Central Park and in Bronx Park, and at the latter visited the excellent Botanical Gardens. The conservatories contain plants from all parts of the world, the arrangement and classification being extremely good. The Zoological Gardens at the Bronx Park also aroused our enthusiasm.^ " We had never seen animals in confinement looking better cared for nor in more healthy conditions. The outdoor ranges for mammals, the reptile houses, and the vast flying-cages for birds are all wonderfully well arranged ; and the surroundings are so charming that these gardens form a most attractive resort for the zoologist or the botanist. On other occasions we visited Prospect Park at Brooklyn, which is beautifully laid out, and Van Cortlandt Park with its fine woods and historic mansion built in 1748, used at one time by General Washington as his headquarters ; this forms a pleasant excursion from the city, being only a
few miles distant. " Taken as a whole, New York is not attractive architecturally; the huge skyscrapers blot out the sunlight and air so essential to health and spirits, whilst the many narrow streets and the unsightly Elevated Railway detract from its general appearance. We were informed that the Singer Building of fortyfive stories was the highest structure at that time, but buildings of even greater elevation have since been
erected.
The noise of the down the streets and

^
"
surface-cars
rumbling up and
the passing of trains on the Elevated Railway add to the uproar and general disThese gardens are referred to in greater Forbes Julian given on p. 1&3.
detail
in the
letter of

;
121
while the bustling steamers on the ferries comfort with their hooting sirens quite bewilder the European visitor on first landing. *' My husband, having retained a vivid recollection
of the noise in New York on his previous visit there, had endeavoured to prepare me for it but it must be experienced to be realized. London, even in such busy thoroughfares as the Marble Arch, Charing Cross, or the Bank, seems a quiet city in comparison, and the
;
noise cannot be equalled in Paris, Berlin, Vienna, or
any of the great European

"
capitals.
The
surface-cars are generally full to overflowing,
and on one occasion when getting out of this conveyance, crowded with * strap-hangers,' I had great difficulty in passing some of the passengers, my place husband, who was having been in the far corner. standing near the door (having given his seat to a lady), advanced to help me, and I was accidentally pushed against a man who was also alighting. Naturally I at once apologized, but he looked at me with surprise, for I had not yet learnt that to express regret was considered waste of time in the busy streets of New York, where little sympathy seems shown for fanciful As no man in America is rude notions of politeness. to a woman (at least, I have never met one who was),
My
he turned on my husband instead, and as we reached * Say, Britisher, I guess the side path shouted out I presume you're a man not much used to travelling.' he thought he was letting us off too easily, so sent this remark after us, but as my husband at that time had considerably over a hundred thousand miles to his credit the parting shot fell harmlessly wide of the mark. " The express lifts or ' elevators,' as they are called, in the different hotels and offices rush up past the first ten or fifteen floors without stopping ; whilst a
:
122
slower
floor.
lift,
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

called the
'
local elevator,' stops at each
They seem like express and local stopping trains.
" * Don't take that elevator, you'll be all day getting to the tenth floor,' vê wêre told on stepping into the slovêr one at our hotel when visiting friends on the tenth floor. " Apparently everyone in New York is in a hurry,
and the power of doing

prized, without
much
a thing quickly is greatly attention as to the imperfections
of the performance.
" Few people sit down to write letters that would be considered too dilatory a proceeding yet they will waste far more time than it takes to write several notes waiting in queues at crowded hotels like the Plaza or the Waldorf-Astoria to get on to the telephone ' and communicate with their friends. There are telephones in all the hotel bedrooms, both for messages in the hotel and for long distances, and many people in New York (on account of the great difflculty in getting servants) live permanently in hotels, and can thus speak from their own rooms quite comfortably but as they never seem to feel at home unless they are going out, they are frequently living at one hotel, lunching at a second, and dining at a third, so it often happens that they wish to telephone from their temporary abode. " After looking at rooms in several hotels, including the Waldorf, the Belmont, the Murray Hill, the Majestic, the Plaza, and the Holland House, we were finally attracted by the Netherlands Hotel, which looks over the Central Park and is situated in Fifth Avenue, where neither surface-cars nor elevated railways are allowed, so that it is comparatively quiet. We stayed several weeks there. It is under the same management as the Waldorf-Astoria, is well appointed, and most comfortable in every way.
; ' ;

" From the
only in
123
first we met with great kindness, not York but everywhere in the States, and no visitors coming from the Old World could have received a heartier or more cordial welcome, the memory of many pleasant hours spent with American friends being amongst the most agreeable recollections of a tour which embraced much that was of exceptional
New
interest to us.
" As the autumn advanced we found the great heat in the public buildings and hotels rather exhausting, and English people are apt to take chills when the cold weather sets in, for the rooms there are often kept at and a temperature varying from 70 to 75 degrees the contrast from this heated atmosphere when going outside and walking in the snow in winter frequently
;
leads to serious results.
in the
character of some of the busy traders is given words of an American, one of their most distinguished men of letters, Mr. William Dean Howells,
writes
:
"
The
who
"They are purely commercial, and the thing that cannot be bought and sold has, logically, no place in their life. They applaud one another for their charities, which they measure by the amount given rather than by the love which goes with the giving. The widow's mite has little credit with them, but the rich man's million has an acclaim that reverberates through their newspapers long after the gift is made. It is only the poor in America who do charity by giving help where it is needed ; the Americans are mostly too busy, if they are at all prosperous, to give anything but money, and the more money they give the more charitable they esteem themselves. From time to time some man with twenty or thirty millions gives one of them away, usually to a public institution of some sort, where it will have no effect with the people, who are underpaid for their work or cannot get work, and then his deed is famed throughout the country as a thing
really
beyond praise. " Yet anyone who thinks about
it
must know that he never
124
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
earned the millions he kept nor the million he gave, but somehow made them from the labours of others that, with all the wealth left him, he cannot miss the fortune that he lavishes any more than if the check [cheque] which conveyed it were a withered leaf, and not in any wise so much as an ordinary working-man might feel the bestowal of a postage-stamp.
"
We
*
were sometimes amused by the references

less
made
"
to the price of things by a few of the visitors at the various hotels.
refined
my automobile. It cost fifteen thousand (^3000), was the remark of a lady, a total stranger, as she pointed out her motor-car to me from our hotel window ; and when my husband joined me, she asked at once, * Is that your husband ? ' On my replying in the affirmative, she said directly, * Present me to him.' I answered that I should be happy to do so, but did not know her name. This little difficulty having been surmounted by the production of a bag with her visiting card, the introduction took place, when without further loss of time she pointed out the motor-car to him, remarking, ' automobile ; cost fifteen thousand dollars ; it has all solid silver fittings.' She also gave us a list of her jewellery, and informed us of the price of several ornaments she was wearing at the time, and whenever we met her on several other occasions volunteered information about her diamonds and other precious stones, with a profusion of which she was always decorated. On our being anxious to escape the recital on one occasion, and my husband saying that he thought it was getting late, her daughter remarked, I guess I can tell you the time,' and we then noticed that she was wearing three watches. She kindly explained that * she was At terribly fond of watches,' and possessed seventy. first this boasting amused us, but afterwards it made us long to emulate the behaviour of the deaf adder.
That's
'
dollars
My
'

**
125
we knew them
Finding both these ladies very good-natured when better, we tried to interest them in the case of a poor and deserving woman whose husband was ill, and who was anxious to get work for herself, We mentioned that to support him and her children. the case was a genuine one, as we knew of it through an American friend, Mrs. Carroll, and a German friend. Countess von B (a cousin of Humboldt), who was engaged in philanthropic church settlement work in New York. We hoped we had persuaded the millionairess to employ our poor seamstress, but I unluckily added that when she worked for Mrs. Carroll
or myself we paid her tram fares, as she lived in a remote and cheap part of the city. On hearing this, the poor possessor of all this wealth (for I think she was poor in all but her banking account) exclaimed, I call that just extortion. She'll have Is that so ? no surface-car fares from me. Why no, I guess I won't employ her.' The fares in question amounted to ten cents, about 5^. of our money. " Hearing that we were often out inspecting the museums and other public buildings, this lady feared it must be terribly dull going to such things,' and offered to drive us to see some of the stores in her celebrated automobile, and the more firmly we declined the more fervently were we pressed to accompany her on her shopping expeditions down town.' Her surprise at our rashness in refusing this tempting offer was only equalled by her astonishment at our obstinacy in adhering to our original decision, and she kindly allowed the idea to peep out that we were being greatly honoured by the invitation. '' Learning that my husband had been one of the founders of the Royal Automobile Club in London made her anxious to have his advice about motoring.
*
' '
Of
their chauffeur these
two
ladies lived in considerable
126
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
awe. We often saw him strolling about the hotel in a free-and-easy manner during the day, listening to the orchestra in the evening or conversing with He easily persuaded them that it different guests. would injure the car to take it ' down town ' to Wall Street and other places where they usually went ; so that they were forced to let him lounge about in the hotel whilst they took the Elevated Railway from the Sixth Avenue, on which there is only one class. Thus in spite of their great wealth they had to endure overcrowding and various discomforts with other
people.
Why don't you tell him that he must take you the car ? ' asked my husband one evening when they in were complaining to us of their unpleasant mode of
"
'
transit.
" He's pretty sensitive, I guess, he might want to was the reply of the mother. ' Besides, he's real elegant, and gave me his arm and saw me into the Elevated Railway to-day. He's a lovely man " He won't wish to leave when he is so comfortable at your expense in this hotel,' said my husband. But she was evidently afraid to argue the matter vdth the man. " We found, however, that for the following day she was determined to have the car, although they were only going to the Plaza, an hotel recently rebuilt, also overlooking Central Park, about one minute's walk from our hotel. The Netherlands. " ' Oh, momma,' said her daughter, ' we don't need the automobile to go across there, we can walk right
'
quit,'
'
'
in.'
" ' I guess they won't think replied her parent.

"
pose
'
much
of us
if
we
do,'
You want your

?
'
friends to see the car, I sup-
suggested
my
husband.

"
'
127
No,' she replied frankly
was thinking of the
waiters.'
" It was
"
'
ladies' maid with us to the asked the daughter. " ' Certainly not,' I replied. " ^ But she's asked to go, and she's mighty sensitive. I guess she'll quit, too, unless we take her. She wants to see the hotel, and would be terribly mortified not to come,' was the answer. " ' I should think she would be very much in your way ; but, of course, you know your own affairs best,' was all that I could feebly suggest after this reply. And so the next day after lunch the whole party, the two ladies and their maid, escorted by the chauffeur, went in the motor-car in state to the Plaza. " On their return the mother informed us that they had gone to the hotel for afternoon tea, chiefly in the hope of getting a glimpse of the Duchess of Marlborough, whom they believed to be staying there. " ' I hope that you saw her Grace,' I replied, endeavouring to appear more interested than I felt. " ' Why, it wasn't anybody called Grace, but the duchess herself whom we wanted to see. I guess it's not worth while staying on in this aristocratic location unless we meet some real aristocratic people, and I just hated leaving the Holland House, where there's always such delicious eating, and coming right away here,' she replied in a despondent tone *' This naive consideration of the social advantages of the Plaza and Netherlands Hotels (adjoining Central Park) as contrasted with the Holland House, famous for its cuisine, but not in quite such an attractive situation, greatly amused us, and we soon perceived that after the task of acquiring wealth (the new * Whole Duty of Man ' to some people in New York)
Shall
?
'
now my turn we take our
to be consulted.
Plaza
128
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

the pursuit of
has been successfully accomplished,

social success
becomes an all-engrossing occupation. " The short walk from the Fifth Avenue, with its Millionaires' Club and the many magnificent mansions of the wealthy, to the squalid wretchedness of
Second or Third Avenue presents several peculiarly

sharp contrasts. We visited some of the poorer parts of the city with Countess von B including the , district where she was working. A well-known divine has ably described these social surroundings when he
says
:
" We recognize the horrible conditions of life in which great masses of the people live ; we see how the quickening of the pulse of commerce and the economic life by steam and electricity has only intensified the powers that grind down and crush all who are near the bottom until, as men brutally said, there was only room left at the top. We see how laboursaving machinery rarely brings any shortening of hours, or increase in reward, to the labourer who works that machinery. see how great Trusts dehumanize men's dealings with each other, and then there comes the expectation of a better day.
We
" In New York, Chicago, and other congested centres, where men make haste to grow rich, the prevailing conditions seem to have swept aside many of the old barriers that used to impede the activities of wealth and to have prepared a soil unusually favourable for the rapid grov^h of plutocracy with the many evils
that
follow
it.
The
prevalent
habit
of
is
attaching
undue importance to material conditions
greatly to be deplored. By not a few people in these great cities poverty seems to be regarded as the worst of
evils,
and
a purely materialistic standard of progress
is
thus
created.
its
Outward
success
has
apparently
brought in
"
wake great
spiritual dearth
through the
life.
extinction of
many
potent elements in the higher
We were in New York during the commercial crisis
129
of 1907, which was keenly felt at the time and produced disastrous results. The excitement experienced and the suspicion and distrust then engendered in almost
not readily be forgotten. No ready was forthcoming nothing could be obtained but Clearing House cheques. Our Bank of England notes were received with the greatest satisfaction at the hotel, for many even of the extremely wealthy permanent visitors were unable to
all
classes
will
money, either
dollars, notes, or gold,
pay
"
for
some time.
of the Horse Show in November, one of the great social events of the American year, added to our experiences in another way, and formed a pleasant relaxation in the midst of the technical work
The week
with which
harassed business
husband was engaged. Even the of the city, though apparently disliking a holiday, yet make a point of attending the Horse Show and it gives the women unique opportunities of displaying their many charming costumes. One attractive young lady, a bride, who was at our hotel, informed me that she was ordering several fresh dresses for the Show, although she had only been married a few weeks and had not yet put on some of the new costumes in her trousseau. She became very friendly and we often had long conversations. 1 expect you will like soon to settle in a house of your
my
men
'
suggested one day. Why no. I should be terribly mortified if my husband wanted to start housekeeping,' was the prompt and unexpected reply. *' The following incident will serve to illustrate the curiosity occasionally felt as to the clothing worn by others. A young Scotch friend told us that soon after she and her husband arrived in the States they had lost a near relative, and owing to this bereavement had gone to one of the large stores to choose mourning. Entering the bonnet department, she asked that some
own
? '
'
130
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
headgear might be brought to her, and removed the Immediately afterwards black hat she was wearing. two other purchasers, who had been eyeing her intently all the time, picked up her hat, and one of them even tried the effect of it on her own head, turning to her companion and saying composedly, How does it suit My, what a cute little black hat me? ' Naturally this free-and-easy behaviour astonished our friend, as she knew that both women had seen her come in wearing the hat (which was by no means a new one), so that they must have known that it was private property and not exposed for sale. " The children in New York seem particularly
'
!
bright and friendly, but are v^thout the pretty shyness which many of us find rather attractive in the younger generation of the Old World. They live as their parents' constant companions, and soon adopt Therefore it their manner of speaking and thinking. was not surprising, though perhaps rather pathetic, to find that the prices of things loomed largely in their young imaginations. '' One instance was told us by an American lady, who had been two years in Europe, and on her return went to see some wealthy friends whose little boy had been seriously unwell. Being taken to the child's room, she told him how concerned she had been to hear of his illness. ' Why, yes, I was terribly
sick,
tell
you,' answered the

satisfaction.
and had two doctors. It cost a lot too, I can boy with portentous solemnity
of six years old sat at the table
and
"
the States, and had meals with breakfast every day with iced and taking a varied late dinner at half-past seven. He sat up afterwards till ten o'clock listening to the orchestra, and frequently gave
dear little child near us at one hotel in his parents, beginning water and grape-fruit,
131
us the benefit of his experience of men and things, and He was very charming, in spite of proffered advice. Deing old before his time, keeping us amused wîth his baby wit and wisdom. It was rather disconcerting to
find that his father
was a medical
man who
suffered
from severe indigestion himself, although the allowed to feast on sweets and savouries as
dyspepsia was but a
boy was though
phantom
of the Imagination.
My husband and I were frequently questioned about tours to be taken in Great Britain. A lady who had spent a few days in Scotland some years previously was amongst those anxious for further information. We found she had already visited Edinburgh and Glasgow. ' Probably you greatly preferred Edinburgh on account of its historic buildings and associations with the past ? we suggested. ' Why, no, I was terribly disappointed to find it such a mouldy old city. It has more push and I like Glasgow better. go and productiveness, and they had an elevator in the hotel there, but there was none at the hotel In Edinburgh, and I just hated walking upstairs,' was the After this it seemed useless to give glowing reply.
"
'
descriptions of the antiquarian features of lona, St.
Andrews, and
tances
However, many other acquainwere familiar either by association or study with most of our historic cities and ruins, and eager to obtain suggestions respecting
Stirling.
made
in the
States
projected
visits
to places of archaeological interest,

at
showing no such disposition to magnify the present
the expense of the past. " It would naturally be most unfair to suppose that the frivolity, ostentation, and continuous whirl of noisy life, without intervals for thought or natural simple Intercourse, in which sojourners at a few fashionable hotels would be involved, justly represent what passes in the inner circles of refined American
132
social life.
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

The
givers of
'
freak ' entertainments also should not be considered as authorized exponents of Many interesting and cultured taste and thought. acquaintances were met with, and we could nowhere have experienced more kindness and courtesy or formed pleasanter friendships than in the United States. " It is said that in New York strangers are some-
they are worth in Boston, and in the Southern States, to what family they belong. It certainly is a complete change from Chicago or New York to go down into Maryland or Virginia, where in many instances, except for the large coloured population, one might almost fancy oneself back in Great Britain. We were guests at a charming old house built when Maryland was a British colony by a Scotch ancestor of our hostess. He, being a Jacobite, had gone out there after the troubles following the rising in 1745-46, which ended
times asked
;
how much
;
what they know
so fatally for the Stuarts at the battle of Culloden.
" Our friends welcomed us with great kindness and hospitality, invited professors from the Johns Hopkins University in Baltimore to meet us, and took us to see the places of interest in their neighbourhood, including the University and Hospital, the Roman Catholic cathedral at Baltimore, and the Lexington market, which was an amusing scene and crowded with coloured people. There was an extensive fire in Baltimore a few years ago and much of the older part of the city was then destroyed, but several fine buildings have recently been erected. Our hostess and her son talked ably of scientific subjects, on art, literature, and politics, and tried to explain to us the differences between the Democratic and Republican parties in the States, always a bewildering topic to Europeans. They evidently had quite other ideals than the wealth and worldly prosperity so fiercely fought for and
*

133
greedily grasped at by the weary winners ' in some of the great cities of the West. " At Washington, the capital of the United States * that city of magnificent distances,' as it has been we were kindly so aptly called by the Abbe Carrea
entertained
Bryce later
by the British Ambassador and Mrs. in the autumn. As their guests we had
;
the opportunity of meeting several interesting people, and they desired to present us to President Roosevelt but as he was away, and we could not prolong our stay, this was impossible. We, however, visited the President's residence, the celebrated White House, which is a simple building of Virginia freestone. General Washington himself had selected the site and laid the corner-stone in 1792, and he lived to see the building completed but John Adams was its first occupant. Various alterations and additions were afterwards made. The surroundings also are noteworthy in front is Lafayette Square, on the one side the Treasury, on the other the State, War, and Navy buildings.
; :
The White House
is situated amongst fine trees and bright flower beds, and the grounds merge into the
Mall and stretch away to the Washington National is an obelisk of white marble, rising from an elevation near the Potomac River. We saw it looming against the sky long before reaching Washington, and in the city it confronted us in every view. It is said to be the loftiest work of masonry in the world, and is naturally regarded by Americans with considerable admiration. Of course the Capitol is the centre of attraction not only to politicians but to visitors generally, and we spent some time there examining the historical pictures and the statues of distinguished Americans in the charming Statuary Hall. We then went to the gallery of the Hall of Representatives of Congress, which is a very fine
Monument, which
134
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
Chamber. We hoped to hear the speeches, but there was so much loud conversation going on that we could gather nothing. Soon afterwards there was an adjournment, and we immediately proceeded to the gallery of the Senate Chamber, where we were rewarded by hearing a speech from one of the senators, who spoke most ably. The Library of Congress adjoins the It is a beautiful building, the mural decoraCapitol. and it is said to be the tions being unusually fine
;
best-lighted
the world. Before leaving Washington we visited the Smithsonian Institution and the National Museum, which both stand in the
library in
same grounds.
in the National
collection.
There
is
good
historical collection
Museum, and
a valuable ethnological
There
are also special exhibits illustrating
the chief religions of the world. The natural history collections are intended to represent primarily the fauna of the United States, and secondly some of the The principal forms found in foreign countries. department of geology contains the extensive collection of the United States Geological Survey, all being
admirably classified. " Washington is adorned with many fine statues and avenues of stately trees, the parks and public gardens being charmingly laid out. It was only after long and heated discussion concerning the claims of New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and other cities to be chosen as the capital that Congress empowered the President, General Washington, to choose a situation for a city on the Potomac River. We were told that the site chosen by him, and which became the seat of the city named in his honour, was one to which he had been
attracted
when
"
My husband
young surveyor. and I also visited the house
in
which
Abraham Lincoln died. It is now converted Oldroyd-Lincoln Museum, and contains many
into the
valuable
135
autograph letters and publications, together with various objects connected with the murdered President, one of the most highly prized being the family Bible in which he wrote his name in boyhood. Other
notable institutions in Washington which we saw during our stay were the Corcoran Gallery of Art, the Treasury, the Soldiers' Home, and the State Depart-
ment. " We
to
also spent a short

visit
time in Virginia, but on a
we had more leisure become better acquainted with this famous Southern State, and especially with Richmond, the former capital of the fallen Confederacy, and also with many historic places connected with the life and work of
subsequent
three years later
General Washington. " Our next stay was

Virginia
is
full of associations
so Pennsylvania recalls
Benjamin Franklin the first distinguished for his piety and zeal in promoting the welfare of all mankind, including the poor Indian the second, one of the most remarkable men in science and literature that
;
and just as with George Washington, the names of William Penn and
at Philadelphia,
It will be remembered that Philadelphia is situated on the Delaware River, and is the chief city of Pennsylvania and one of the most important places in the United States. It is called * The City of Homes,' and we were most favourably impressed by the kindness of the citizens whom we met, everyone being friendly and endeavouring to give us information and assistance. There are many fine buildings, and the City Hall is crowned by the statue of William Penn, looking down over his own Quaker city. It is worthy of note that whilst Virginia and every other colony in the New World were visited in turn by the ravages and horrors of Indian warfare, no drop of Quaker blood was ever shed by a
America has produced.
136
red
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

man
To William Penn was due in Pennsylvania. immunity from carnage enjoyed by his followers in the province he had founded, which had been granted to him by Charles II in payment for debts due to his father, Admiral Penn, by the Government.
this
In his new country Penn's dealings with the Indians, the rest of his methods, were humane, just, and in advance of his age ; whilst religious enthusiasm and social theory went hand in hand under his guidance. He was willing to walk with the red men alone in their forests and to join them in their feasts. He caused Colonel Markham to inform them that he would not take by force a single rood of their ancient huntinggrounds, but would buy it from them with their full consent and goodwill and that he would never allow his followers to annoy or defraud the Indians, to cheat them of their fish, their wild game, or their beaver skins. If a quarrel arose between a red man and a white man, twelve men six Indians and six English should be deputed to meet together and judge which was in the right, and settle the matter
like
;
It is pleasant to reflect that this was subsequently incorporated in the Great Treaty signed between the Six Nations and William Penn, and faithfully kept by the Indians. " To Franklin's untiring enthusiasm the first library is due, and in 1743 he also founded the American Philosophical Society, which is the oldest organized body in America for the pursuit of philosophical
accordingly.
investigation.
now known as Independence from early colonial times and also the Pennsylvania Hospital and Christ Church, to which church our Queen Anne gave a set of plate for the Holy Communion that is said to be still used on certain occasions. Our pleasantest visit in Philadelphia was
old State House,
Hall, dates
;
"
The

to the old Friends'
of the Society of Friends received us
137
Meeting House, where a member most kindly, took us over the library, and gave us much information
the city. We also inspected the Roman Catholic cathedral, a large modern building, and vênt, moreover, to several of the public institutions. " husband and I spent Christmas week at Boston, and in this hospitable city we received a cordial welcome from some of its cultured inhabitants, finding much to enjoy and to remember with pleasure in this great centre of American intellectual life. It is charmingly situated at the head of Massachusetts Bay, near the confluence of the Charles and Mystic Rivers. From an early time the sea-girt peninsula seems to have attracted attention, as it was thought to present unrivalled facilities both for commerce and defence. It has substantial wharves on its water margins, many of them being covered with imposing warehouses. The public buildings and churches are numerous and well worth visiting. On Christmas Day we attended service at Trinity Church, where the musical service is beautifully rendered. It holds a considerable congregation, and is said to be one of the largest churches in the States. We found it crowded with worshippers. We also went to see some of the quaint old churches of early colonial days, and visited the Roman Catholic cathedral of the Holy Cross. At the chief Congregational church we read some of the pamphlets of the Mayflower League, we inspected the Unitarian church with its fine stained-glass windows, and saw also the curious church of the Christian Scientists, a large building of most peculiar con-
about
My
Benevolent and charitable societies flourish supported by its generous inhabitants. One of our drives was to Harvard and Cambridge, where we saw the homes of Longfellow,
struction.
in the city, being heartily
138
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
Lowell, and others who had been undisputed rulers the Republic of Letters. The University and Museum were also inspected, as well as the Bunker
in
Hill
Monument.
" Although it was winter, the weather was brilliantly bright and sunny, and this enabled us to judge how beautiful the Boston Common and public gardens must look in summer. We visited the Faneuil Hall, where so many political speeches were delivered in the revolutionary period. It was built in 1742, and the old State House was erected a few years later. The modern State Capitol on Beacon Hill is a very imposing structure. Several houses still stand which recall revolutionary days. There are numerous important buildings also in Copley Square, including the magnificent Public Library, which is said to be the largest free library in the world and the Museum of Fine Arts, containing an excellent collection of paintings, The Museum of Natural sculpture, and antiquities. History with its large collections is situated in Boylston Street. However, it is impossible to give more than the merest passing reference to the various institutions that we enjoyed seeing in the city which Emerson described with patriotic pride ' as appointed in the
;
destiny of nations to lead the civilization of North America.' It will be readily understood that the great libraries, art galleries, and museums offer many attractions to European visitors. were interested also in the fact that a Boston friend who acted as our kind and courteous guide was descended from one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence.
We
Huguenot
husband, being descended from one of the families who had been forced to leave France in order to secure the rights of conscience, was specially occupied at Boston in studying the memorials of the thoughtful and religious Puritan emigrants, who
"
My

are to this day revered as the patriarchs of
139
;
America mine were also immediately whilst his sympathies and engaged by recalling in Philadelphia the evidences of the deep spirituality of William Penn and the personal piety of his followers, for on my mother's side I am descended from a long line of Quaker ancestry. " Other great centres were also visited, and on a northern tour into Canada we broke the long journey both at Albany and Buffalo, and saw the memorial
erected to President McKinley in the latter city. " husband was anxious to take me to Niagara, and he enjoyed paying a second visit himself to the celebrated Falls which have been so long famous and constitute one of the chief attractions of the American continent. His previous stay had been in the summer season, and it was now midwinter ; but he told me that he thought the snow-clad district, with the
My
sunshine and rainbow-tinted spray, made the scene even more lovely than it had seemed to him before. The broken sheet of river, hurling itself down with incessant roar and whitening the precipice from bank to bank, presents a sight of unrivalled beauty, the neighbouring ground never ceasing to quiver with the roll and plunge of the precipitated water the ' thunder water,' as the Indians poetically named it. " We spent several days at Niagara, which was in every way advantageous, for it is only after making repeated visits and enjoying a constant view of the two cataracts, the Horseshoe on the Canadian side and the American Fall on the southern side, that the marvellous grandeur of the scene with all its picturesque beauty can be fully realized. " From Niagara we proceeded to Toronto, which is said to be the most English of all the Canadian cities. Here we received great kindness from everyone, and the weather (although cold and frosty, with deep snow
brilliant
'
'
140
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
on the ground) was bright and beautiful, reveahng to us something of the charm of the Canadian winter. We were deHghted to be again under the British flag, but unfortunately my and felt thoroughly at home husband's time was limited, so we could make only a short stay in the Dominion, and soon had to return However, before leaving, visits to the United States. were made to the University, the Parliament buildings, and the Law Courts, Toronto being a great educational and legal centre and the seat of the provincial government. " The long journey had led us to several places with which my husband was familiar, as he already had visited them in his expedition to the North American continent in 1893. He saw that great changes had taken place during those fourteen years in the young and rapidly developing communities and busy cities
;
of the Transatlantic West.
" In addition to his professional work he found much that was worth studying in various political and social matters, such as the question of the Trusts, then specially agitating men's minds in the States. His own views, though progressive, were never extravagant, and whilst recognizing the unwisdom of those whose whole aim in life seems to consist in attempting to stem the tide of popular feeling, he saw the danger of being deluded by the noise and clamour of ignorant demagogues. He was never a partizan, and this moderation won him many friends both in the States and in Canada. " Leaving New York for England on one of the large and comfortable steamers of the Hamburg-American
we had a pleasant week at sea, and, arriving safely Plymouth in January 1908, reached our home at Torquay a few hours afterwards,"
line,
at
CHAPTER
MEXICO
1^
XII
FTER
staying at
home
for
brief
holiday,
Forbes Julian found himself summoned to JL JL London on fresh technical work. He continued his researches on the development and improvement of the cyanide process, but whenever he could obtain release from professional labours he gladly hastened back to the seaside. Immediately on his arrival in town from Torquay in January he made a report on their American business to the Board of the Butters Company. His sister, Emily Julian, having been recently appointed principal of the Avery Hill College at Eltham, he was able, during his visits to town, to see her more frequently than had hitherto been the case. Lady Henry Somerset visited Torquay in March to speak at the Pengelly Hall on her life-work. Hester Julian had frequently met the eloquent temperance reformer at Lambeth Palace and elsewhere, and a few days before the meeting received a letter from her arranging to visit them whilst at Torquay. The impressive address, describing the speaker's successful efforts for raising suffering and degraded womanhood, aroused strong interest in the Duxhurst work, and on Lady Henry's visit the same evening at " Redholme " further details were heard, remarkable incidents being given of numerous lives that had been rescued and of victims of drink who had been
reclaimed.
ZJL
142
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
Most of the early spring was spent in town, but with the approach of Easter Forbes Julian turned his In a letter to his wife written on face homewards.
April 3rd, just before returning, a recent request that
he would become a contributor to the Mining and Scientific Press is mentioned. Leaving Devonshire soon after Easter for London, he and his wife settled at Hampstead, and (although closely engaged throughout the day) he found, as usual, much stimulus in attending the Friday evening lectures at the Royal Institution with his friend, the Rev. J. O. Bevan. The discourses given by Sir James Dewar and Sir J. J. Thomson were always especially attractive, and it afforded him pleasure to meet the members and their friends in the library after the lectures, to see the microscopic displays and examine the scientific apparatus and the various important
exhibits.
afternoon meetings of the Royal his vdfe were present with their friend. Professor Harley, in like manner enabled him to meet and to listen to papers and discussions from some of the men most distinguished in modern science, those who had added to the sum of human knowledge by piercing the mysteries of nature, the exponents of the two sciences in which he took such keen interest, physics and chemistry, as well as the leaders in other departments of knowledge experts whose illuminating researches had placed them in the first rank of scientific inquirers, even in an age prolific
Society, at
The Thursday
which he and
men. During the summer Forbes Julian and his wife were present at some of the sessions of the PanAnglican Congress, and on Sunday, June 14th (the day
in great
before the opening of the Congress), heard his cousin, Dr. Moore Neligan, Bishop of Auckland, preach at
MEXICO
143
evensong at St. Paul's Cathedral. The preacher made an earnest appeal for the fulfilment of Britain's religious obligations as a Christian nation to her colonies and
all parts of the world. the following day at noon the opening service for the members of the Congress was held at Westminster Abbey, being conducted by the Dean, Dr. Armitage Robinson. The Albert Hall was crowded on Tuesday night for the first great evening meeting, when the Archbishop of Canterbury delivered his inaugural address ; and the papers and discussions were continued throughout the week. In the midst of the Congress meetings and of various projected plans for the summer Forbes Julian was suddenly summoned by an urgent cable to undertake work for the Butters Company in Mexico. This was the first separation from his wife (for more than a few days) since their marriage, and at first he endeavoured to postpone the journey until the cooler autumn weather, that she might be able to accompany him ; but on learning that the Mexican work could not be delayed, he reluctantly arranged to go alone. On Monday the 22nd he and his wife were present at the Albert Hall and heard several eloquent speakers on the subject of " Christian Truth and other Intellectual Forces," Mr. Balfour, Bishop Welldon, Father Waggett, Canon Hensley Henson, and Mr. Masterman all contributing able addresses. Unfortunately, the traveller had to leave London on the 24th, the day of the concluding service at St. Paul's Cathedral, when the Thanksgiving offerings were presented to the Primate by the archbishops and bishops. A telegram from his wife briefly describing the service reached Forbes Julian on the R.M.S. Caronia at Liverpool, and afforded him the oppor-
possessions in
On
144
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
tunity of keeping in touch with the closing scene of a Congress memorable to the members of the Anglican Church and to those in communion with them throughout the world. few days after his departure, and whilst he was still on the voyage to Mexico, a somewhat serious revolt, the first indication of coming trouble, occurred in that unsettled country, which was soon to be Fortunately, convulsed in the throes of civil war. the ill-starred rising of 1908 was of short duration and was speedily suppressed, but the political horizon remained ominous and the smouldering discontent of the people afterwards found vent in open rebellion and protracted and sanguinary struggles, resulting in the deposition of President Diaz and the assassination of President Madero. The news of this insurrection and tidings of the burning and looting of villages, which reached him on board the Caronia through Marconigram, did not cause him the least alarm or the thought of postponing his projected journey ; it rather added an atmosphere of adventure to the expedition and that slight sense of danger which only serves to heighten its interest. His wife, however, was so seriously concerned that she sent a cable from England to reach him on landing in New York, begging him to make inquiries there before proceeding further. He cabled back immediately to relieve her anxiety, " Travelling safe " ; and would have started at once
Mexico, but was unexpectedly detained in New for a few days by a telegram from Mr. Charles Butters, who was crossing the American continent from San Francisco and was anxious to meet him. In a letter to his wife written before reaching New York, from which extracts are given, the traveller describes his voyage on the R.M.S. Caronia^ a fine
for
York
MEXICO
145
steamer of the Ciinard Line, and mentions a chess tournament by wireless telegraphy between the passengers on this vessel and the S.S. Teutonic,
On
board R.M.S. Caronia,
1st July, 1908. stayed only a very short time at Queenstown. The morning was brilliant, which helped to make the harbour (which is so familiar to me) look lovely, and we skirted all along the south coast near enough to see the houses. I never saw the Irish coast to better advantage. A great number of gulls followed the ship, but in the night we ran into a fog and had the horn blowing at intervals. The birds (wise creatures) thought Ireland was good enough for them, and so they ceased to follow us. On the 28th, Sunday, we had a strong land breeze which gave the air a deliciously crisp feeling. The sky was almost cloudless. At about 3 p.m. there was a partial eclipse of the sun visible. In the morning there was service conducted by the captain in the first-class saloon. The choir was accompanied by a pianist and four stringed instruments, and at the conclusion of the service one of the choir sang as a solo the hymn " Abide with me." The 30th was a glorious day with a very pleasant temperature. In the evening a concert in the first-class saloon was a great success. Afterwards there was a dance on deck. To-day the weather is superb, and delightfully warm for lounging on deck. It is expected we shall land to-night, in which case I shall put up at an hotel in New York, and take the train' to-morrow which makes a connection at St. Louis with the one for Mexico City. This ship is splendid, as steady as a rock, with three fine decks. The officers and stewards are all very civil and the passengers are pleasant, Americans predominating. We saw very few ships, but the White Star liner Teutonic is following us and has been within reach by wireless telegraphy for the past three days. There has been a chess match between passengers on the two ships, which seems rather a wonderful thing. It is not finished yet. I made the acquaintance of Mr. A. D. Hall, whom I recognized as one of the British Association members who read a paper on Agricultural Chemistry at Section B at Cape Town.
We
146
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
He is going to America to give a series of lectures at Cornell and Boston, but he hopes to return in time for the Association meeting in Dublin. My neighbour at meals is a New York doctor, a typical American who has been to Europe for a rapid trip. Opposite me is an energetic American lady who has been travelling with
her aunt
all
over Europe.
The
old lady
is
over eighty.
Landing in New York at the beginning of July, he was in time to witness those annual celebrations at which the American Eagle flutters its wings so energetically, and in writing home he alludes at the close of the next letter to this exuberance of patriotism
:
Murray Hill Hotel,
New
'ird
York,
July, '08. I landed yesterday morning and went to the office to hear if there were any instructions about proceeding to Mexico. I found a wire had been received from Mr. Butters (who is on his way to New York from San Francisco) asking me to wait until his arrival. . . I got your cable safely ; it was just like you, dearest, to be anxious about me when you saw in the papers about the Mexican revolt. These sorts of things in all the LatinAmerican States are always purely political against their own people, and are more or less of a perennial nature. Strangers are never endangered by them, and there is not likely to be any more fighting for another year. I shall probably not be leaving here until the 6th or 7th, but I will take all precautions possible to ensure safety. New York looks so familiar that I feel as if it were only yesterday that I saw it last ; a few new skyscrapers mark the only change. To-morrow is the greatest day of the year over here, and everybody is getting ready to wave their star-spangled banners and let off fireworks.
.
Two
.
.
days later he writes again, on July 5th

Saturday,
On
being
noise.
devoted the time to letting

York's reputation for
off fireworks
Independence Day, everyone and keeping up New
The newspapers
congratulate
MEXICO
passed off so
!
147
satisfactorily
the country on the day having only about fifty people were killed and thirteen hundred injured .
.
.
In the two following letters to his wife he describes the days preceding his journey and the interviews with his friend Mr. Charles Butters, for whose firm he was engaged in giving scientific information on technical matters to their lawyer, Mr. Binney of New York, in conjunction with the distinguished expert Dr.
Chandler.
The work he was

was of somewhat
out the previous Butters Patent
undertaking for the firm in Mexico

similar
character to that carried

in the
Filter
autumn
United
States.
The
Moore
Filter
Vacuum Company and the were now engaged in a metalCompany

magnitude.
lurgical patent dispute of the first
The
questions involved were of so highly technical a character that, though interesting to experts, they would hardly be attractive to ordinary readers, and it is not intended to do more here than to refer to them in these general terms. Forbes Julian alludes in his letters from time to time to the legal proceedings in New York, and to Dr. Chandler and other experts
whom
he met in connection with the
scientific
and
technical evidence being collected.
Murray Hill Hotel,
New
Mr. Butters
arrived
York,
I
Jth July, '08.
on Sunday morning and
saw him
explained that he wired me to await his arrival as he thought he might be useful in giving me information regarding my trip to Mexico. Owing to the revolt a little delay might be beneficial, as the Vice-President of Mexico, whom I have to see, will be so much engaged for a week or two that he may not be able to devote as much time to our matters as we should like.
in the afternoon.
.
.
He
148
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Murray Hill Hotel,
New
York,
loth July, 1908. The people here are envying me the trip to Mexico, and Mr. Binney wants me to find some pretext for taking him
I should much prefer having you to anyone else the world. ... I have bought a little Kodak which will take photos about the size of a post card. There are many mines near Mexico City that I may have time to visit, and I want in particular to take photos of parts of the mining " plants." It will also be useful for taking pictures, so that you may learn what the country is like, Mr. Butters has asked the secretary of the American Club to give me the privileges of a member during my visit to Mexico City. If I can get a room there it will be much pleasanter than living at an hotel. I am enclosing you a few photos of New York skyscrapers. The Metropolitan Life building is about 40 feet higher than the Singer building. It is, however, not yet quite completed. They are now talking of putting up a building 909 feet high near Wall Street. The Tower of Babel after that I have booked to leave to-morrow (Saturday), and expect to arrive at 6.30 a.m. next Thursday. ... I am very much grieved to hear of the deaths of Sir Arthur Havelock and
with me.
in
Mr. Brooking Rowe.
Sir
Arthur had been
failing for
some
ill.
time, but I had no idea that Mr. Brooking Rowe had been He will be a great loss to the Devonshire Association.
Death had been busy amongst
his circle of acquaint-
ance, several having recently passed into the unseen vôrld, and he felt very keenly the loss of the two
Sir Arthur referred to in the last letter. Havelock had aWays been glad to discuss colonial matters with him, as already mentioned. Mr. Brooking Rowe, of Castle Barbican, near Plymouth, was a well-known Devonian antiquary and one of the original members of the County Association, which was meeting this month under the presidency of Lord Monkswell.
friends
MEXICO
149
In the following letter home the traveller gives an account of his journey to Mexico and of his first impressions of the country and its people.
The American
Club,
City of Mexico,
i^thjuly, 1908.
I left
New
York on Saturday, July nth, by the ferry
for
I caught the the Pennsylvania Railroad Station in New Jersey. St. Louis Limited train, which was made up only of Pullmans, The train was quite a dining-car, and an observation-car. luxurious. We passed through some charming scenery, and after leaving Philadelphia got into the most English bit of pretty little country that I have seen out of England. place called Malvern reminded me of our visits to Worcestershire. The country round is not unlike the old place. The day was hot, but not disagreeably so, and at night I managed to get enough sleep to feel rested. I had the top berth and a very pleasant man, Mr. Gilbert of St. Louis, a publisher of law books, had the lower one. Sunday was very hot, well over 90, but the humidity was low, so that it was not as oppressive as New York feels at a much lower temperature. There was some dust, but on the whole it was not disagreeable. Mr. Gilbert and I became very friendly, and he wanted to know if I could not stay for a day or two at St. Louis, when he would put me up at his club but that, of course, was impossible. There was a young fellow a Mr. Clark of New York sitting in the section opposite ours, and he joined in our conversation. He turned out to be a very interesting man, an electrical engineer, who had seen a great deal of this side of the world. all three remained together during the journey. Our train arrived at St. Louis by 4.30 p.m. train did not leave until 8.15, while Mr. Clark's train for Dallas, Texas, did not leave until On Mr. Gilbert hearing this, he invited us both to 8.32. dine with him at his club and showed us a little of the town. He then came back to the station and saw us off. He is a really nice fellow, and I hope I shall be able to do something for him when he visits London. That night in the train was oppressively hot, but in the morning it was much cooler. I believe we passed through several towns in the night, and
We
My
150
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
on waking in the morning we were at a place called Little Rock, From this point we passed all day through forest Arkansas. land, with clearings in places where there were villages and
and maize plantations. At about one o'clock we the most important town for the day, named here Taxakana, a border-town between Arkansas and Texas we stayed for two hours. The afternoon became thundery, and we ran through a tract of country that had had heavy Tain. The moisture in the air was excessive and prevented
cotton
arrived at
;
sleep until after midnight,
when
the
air cooled.
Tuesday morning we arrived at San Antonio, and here I saw the first signs of our approach to the Mexican frontier. The buildings were in a different style from anything No doubt I had passed and the people were of mixed race. there is a good deal of Mexican or Indian blood in them. There is no American bustle and stress here, as the climate
is
On
enervating.
We now
got into the land of the cactus
and the palm with virgin scrub, and ran through a hundred miles of it before dark. At about 5 p.m. we arrived at Laredo, an important town, and now there was nothing between us and Mexico but a river. By 5.30 we reached New Laredo, just across the river, and here the baggage was examined by the Mexican officials. At the door of the Custom-house wooden chest were three soldiers in dusty white uniforms
leaning with fixed bayonets against the pillars of the door. After the luggage had been examined they marched off in fine military style. The officials were very polite and attentive, but very casual. They all speak Spanish and a little English. luggage was checked through to this point from New York, and after passing the Customs I had it re-checked to
My
Mexico City, when I thought all formalities were over. However, up came one of the men to say an officer was waiting in the train to examine my hand luggage. Having got that over, I went on to the platform, where another man came up to
accost
He spoke about as spoke Spanish. He wanted to know my name, where I came from, my business, why I was going to Mexico, my age, whether married or single, &c. Most of the answers he did not understand, but wrote something down in Spanish. When I told him my age was 47, he repeated the words several times and then wrote down 37. From
with a large sheet of paper.
as I
me
much
English
MEXICO
this point the
151
journey was intensely interesting.
... At Laredo
the temperature was about 90, and from that point on the land At 8.15 p.m. we stopped at a rose and the air became cool. little roadside hotel, where I had my first Mexican meal. Wednesday. When I woke up we were in the midst of yuccas, aloes, and cactus. On either side of the railway were low ranges of hills, while the land between was almost level. The climate was deliciously invigorating, very much like the high veld in South Africa. There were tiny villages every few miles along the line. Whenever the train stopped a number of children and poor blind and crippled people came and begged. It all presented a great contrast to the thriving cities in the United States. Every now and then we saw a small cemetery,
. . .
with
imposing
monuments and
occasionally
large
cross
standing in the midst. As we proceeded further the people looked better dressed and more prosperous, which is probably due to their finding employment at the mines in the vicinity. Food seemed to be plentiful enough, and scores of women and children surrounded the train at every station, selling fruit, cakes, and various hot dishes. The houses everywhere looked more or less dilapidated, but the buildings with a good deal of colour, and the bright and varied dress of the people, produced a charmingly picturesque effect. At San Louis Potosi, a town of about seventy-five thousand inhabitants, there were several important buildings. We also passed another large city called Monterey. The whole day the weather was delightful and the scenery most interesting. Thursday. We were awakened at 5.45 a.m. as we were on the outskirts of Mexico City. I felt as though I could have gone on travelling for another six days. It was a bright sunny morning, and the drive to this club gave me a good impression of the city. All the older parts seem full of interest. Our lawyer, Mr. Wiechers, has shown me a few of the old buildings and has promised to take me to see everything he can. I could have no better guide, as he seems to know the history of every building in the city. There are a great many fine churches, most of them dating from early Spanish days The place is brimful of attractions for the antiquary, and the people are most friendly and polite. ... I have had an audience with the Vice-President and some other State officials, and I shall probably also have to see President Diaz.
52
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
The next letter, written on his wife's birthday, contains references to Chapultepec, famous for its associations with the Emperor MaximiHan and earher Further accounts of the scenery rulers of Mexico. and vegetation are also given and observations on the Mexican people, with allusions to Mr. Wiechers, who showed much kindness and attention to the
traveller.
The American
Club,
City of Mexico,
2\th July, 1908.
you a cable last night so that you might have someThis being thing from me at breakfast this morning. your birthday, I am giving myself a half-holiday. I would take a whole day, but I have an appointment with the Minister of the Interior which must be kept.
I sent
. .
am always wishing you were here, and especially when I see some of the interesting old churches which abound at every step. it is There is no oppressively hot weather here usually 50 to 60 at night and 60 to 70 in the day-time. The winter temperature is, I am told, very much the same as the summer, but the nights are colder, occasionally Vvîth a little hoar-frost. The vegetation is subtropical and all our subtropical Torquay plants are to be seen here, only appearing very much more luxuriant and abundant. There is a pretty little park in the middle of the town, in which the dracaenas, yuccas, and palms stand 50 feet high. Plumbago grows like a weed, and a pretty creeper (which at home only grows in greenhouses) runs over the tallest trees, producing a charming effect. In this park an excellent band plays every day between
It
is
very lonely going about without you
II A.M. and I P.M. There are between fifty and sixty performers, and the music appears to be much appreciated. portion of the ground is covered with a long awning, and this
enclosure is occupied by the Mexican better class for social intercourse while the band plays. The poorer people surround
the bandstand and applaud every well-executed piece. The Mexican upper class are very exclusive and they have charming manners, but they will not associate with the ordinary
MEXICO
Practically
;
153
American business man, no matter what his wealth may be. no American business men are admitted into their society probably this is partly political and patriotic, but the result is that the Americans keep entirely to themselves. There are small colonies of British, French, and Germans, and these mix with the Mexicans. In the afternoons, especially on Thursdays and Sundays,
about 5, there is a stream of carriages going out to historic Chapultepec, with its beautiful park, about four or five miles away, reached by a wide handsome avenue. Between 7 and 8 they return to the town and drive up and down a street which is about as long and as wide as Bond Street. This is the Bond Between these hours the traffic is Street of Mexico City. often quite as dense as in the London Bond Street in the season. There are fine shops here, and one can buy almost anything. Judging from the prices in the windows, they do not seem to be very different from London prices. The cost of living in hotels is only about half that of New York and I never had more obliging and attentive service anywhere. The usual time for the Mexicans to dine is about 9 o'clock. There is a splendid service of tramcars here, and cabs are plentiful, usually victorias with a few ordinary " growlers." There are two classes, the red and the blue, the difference being that the blue ones look a little smarter and charge nearly double. I drove out in one with Mr. Wiechers the other
at
.
. .
day.
I
have a comfortable bedroom at the club here, and everything is kept spotlessly clean. The maids and waiters speak only Spanish, but they are wonderfully quick at finding out what one wants, and the head waiter can speak English.
.
.
In another letter home, written at the end of July, description is given of the Catholic cathedral of Mexico City. It is known as the Metropolitan Church of Mexico and was consecrated as the Church of the " Ascencion de Maria Santissima," being the largest and most important cathedral of this Spanish republic. The building was commenced as early as 1573 on land purchased by Franciscan friars. It was completed and solemnly inaugurated nearly a century later.
a
154
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

traveller frequently visited the cathedral.
it
The
The
on the east. He also inspected most of the churches and public A remarkable feature is presented by the buildings. celebrated zodiac or calendar, v^hich vâs allowêd by one of the Spanish viceroys to be built into the
Sagrario, to v^hich he refers, adjoins
cathedral, but
is is
held to be the property of the National

of basalt,
is
Museum.
It
of great height,
shows the division of time into
cycles, years,
and clearly and days.
The American
Since writing last I have had a more of the city. On Friday and engaged in preparing a Report, but whole day to myself, and I rambled sorts of places. All the poorer class of
.
. .
Club,
City of Mexico,
i^th July, 1908.
chance of seeing a little Saturday I was busily
on Sunday
had the
all
about on foot into

shops, the markets,
and
all places wherever eatables are sold, are open on Sundays, which seems to be the principal marketing-day of the week. I wandered into one of the poorer quarters, where the streets were crowded with people, mostly Indians. It was more like a fair than anything else, and the people danced about like children just out of school. In my wanderings I came across innumerable churches (mostly in a decaying condition) and other public buildings. I was longing all the time for you to be with me. ... In the morning I went into the cathedral a fine structure which contains many objects of interest. There are numerous oil-paintings there, and some are said to be very fine, but they are so hung that one cannot see them to advantage. There is an immense amount of gilt and a good deal of colour, which produces rather a gaudy effect. Mass was going on at one end of the cathedral whilst I was there. I found a door through which people were streaming and I followed the current, which led to an old chapel in which some famous preacher was in the midst of a sermon. He appeared to be very eloquent, and I should have liked to understand what he was saying. This chapel is called the Sagrario and is very ornamental outside, whilst the inside looks decaying
.
in
fact,
the seats looked dangerously rotten.
MEXICO
55
In front of the cathedral is a large plaza planted with trees, under which are shady seats. In the middle there is a bandThe band seems to play the whole day, and the place stand. is crowded with the poorer classes, who are very orderly and In the evening the appear greatly to enjoy the music. numerous lights amongst the trees produce a pretty effect. .
. .
At the beginning of August he describes a visit to the neighbouring sacred shrine of Guadelupe, and the anniversary celebrations v^hich he wîtnessed in honour of the patriot Hidalgo, whose memory is held in affectionate regard by the people. An interview
with the Minister of Fomento
is
also
mentioned.
Club,
The American
want to finish a Report I which ought to be sent in as soon as possible. I am expecting to have some time after this is completed, and I shall then be able to see something of the neighbourhood. A few days ago Mr. Wiechers took me to Guadelupe, a village reached by tramway, one of the most interesting places near here. There is a small hill there, on which is a graveyard where only the most famous people have been buried. We arrived after the gates were closed, and the man said it would
I officials,
City of Mexico, 2nd Aug., 1908. am writing for the Government
be impossible for us to enter. A dollar coin had, however, Near by is the a miraculous effect, and the gates flew open. spot on which an Indian declared that the Virgin Mary appeared before him and impressed her image on his garment. This happened two or three hundred years ago, and immediately a chapel was built on the spot, and the image was framed and placed on the altar. Thousands of people yearly have made pilgrimages to this place ever since. It is a simplelooking little chapel containing little that is attractive. A few years ago some rich Mexicans built a magnificent church at the foot of the hill, and the image was carried down amidst
pomp and ceremony and placed on the altar of the new church, which is certainly very beautiful both inside and outside and has nothing gaudy about it. The pictures are very fine, and there are silver railings round the altar. In the
great
156
village there
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

.
is a perpetual fair which is entirely supported by the pilgrims. On July 30th, which was the anniversary of Hidalgo's death (Mexico's national hero), there was a grand procession. It was about a mile long, and was attended by prominent citizens and the representatives of various societies. The last party in this concourse carried picks, shovels, and garden-rakes ; what they represented I have not yet discovered. One of the most remarkable things about the procession was the great floral display. There were hundreds of enormous wreaths, about seven feet in diameter, made of lovely flowers. These take two men each to carry, and are sent by the various institutions in the town. Since writing to you last I have had an interview with the Minister of Fomento. He is a man of importance here, and can do a great deal, if he wishes, to assist my work. He is very genial and can speak English, and we were good friends immediately. Few of the older generation here can speak English, but the younger people of the upper class all learn it now. Hardly any of the poorer people speak English, the waiters and servants knowing as a rule only Spanish, but they are used to dealing with people who know little or no Spanish. In the better-class shops there is usually some one who can speak a little English.
. .
. . .
It will be seen from the next letter how greatly he enjoyed the wealth and profusion of the Mexican flowers and foliage, which render the country so attractive to all lovers of botany
:
The American Club,

City of Mexico,
Sth Aug., 1908. Report, and it is now being translated into Spanish. While the Government officials are studying its contents I hope I shall be able to see some of the mining-fields, as I have letters of introduction to the leading mining men. There are a great many places of interest within a day's journey from here, and I should like to see them all. I wish that you were with me Mexico is truly the land of flowers. I have never seen such profusion in any part of the world. There is a flower-
...
have just finished
my
MEXICO
157
market next to the cathedral where only flowers are sold, and they are exceedingly beautiful. The church floral decorations are very elaborate. Some churches keep a staff of decorators perpetually arranging the flowers. A church just behind the club was beautifully decorated on Sunday. The entrances alone must have had a ton of cut flowers about them. We have had lovely weather all the time I have been here, but thunder and rain often occur in the night. Even in the bright sunshine one can walk rapidly without discomfort due, no doubt, to the high altitude and the dryness of the air. There are no hills in the city, but all round is a beautiful range of mountains. ... I find the upper-class people here very nice. The middle-class women wear hardly any kind of headgear. They are very simply dressed and wear black shawls
.
. .
of a thin material,
which
is
much more becoming
to
them
than colours. The great mass of the people are, of course, Indians, and their dress is more picturesque than neat. Every evening, between 7 and 9, there is a cinematograph entertainment near the entrance to the park, at which thousands of these Indians congregate. They seem to be very easily pleased. Close to the same spot the National Theatre is being erected, which will be an ornament to the town. Opposite the theatre is the General Post Office, one of the finest buildings in Mexico
City.
.
.
During his stay the traveller often visited the National Museum of the city, bringing home manyphotographs of the remarkable remains of ancient Mexico exhibited there, including the " sacrificial stone," the image of the god Chac-Mool, and other interesting remains from Chichen-Itza.
CHAPTER
XIII
MEXICO continued
but early in August he left Mexico City and during the following week visited Pachuca, which has long been noted as a mining Here he was received with the utmost centre.
capital,
UP
to this time his work had lain wholly in the
and kindness by Mr. Gerault, Mr. Merrill, Mr. Narvaez, and other mining men of the district, to many of whom he was well known by name, and he
cordiality
describes his travels in a series of letters to his wife.
Pachuca, Mexico,
. .
On Friday,
7th, I
managed to
get
my
^th Jug., 1908. Report delivered
to the officials. As I should have nothing to do while they were deliberating on it, I hurriedly packed my things and left It is Mexico City for Pachuca, a famous old mining camp. about two hours' run north of Mexico City. I could get no advice about the hotels, but I saw the names of two mentioned in the Railway Guide. Just before arriving I asked a gentleman He laughed, so in the train which of these two was the better. " That's about I then asked which of the two was the worse. it," he said, " but you might try the X.' " On arriving I made for the " X," and after asking several Mexicans the wây, I found myself in a square surrounded with trees containing a bandstand all lighted up. On an imposing-looking building After one or two I distinguished the words " Hotel X."
*
unsuccessful attempts, at last
discovered the
office.
In a
Mexican hotel there

There
is
a courtyard called the patio in the

all
the rooms open into the patio. You therefore walk out of your bedroom into the open air, and every part
middle of the building, and
are balconies for the upstairs rooms.

is8
MEXICO
of the hotel
159
There was a girl in is reached from the patio. and I asked her for a bedroom. She replied in She then called a little boy about ten years old, Spanish. who said to me in good English, " What do you want ? " " Do you want one with a view I replied, " A bedroom." from the window ? " he next asked. " Yes," said I ; " give me the best you have." With that another little boy picked up my bag, and away they both ran to show me my room. It turned out to be a very good bedroom with a pleasant view Next morning I of the hills, overlooking the square. I had one to set off to present my letters of introduction. Mr. Merrill, manager of one of the largest mines here. On presenting the letter we recognized each other as having travelled in the same train the evening before he was the man whom I had asked about the hotels. We had an interesting conversation, and he sent me two letters of introduction
the
office,
.
.
in the afternoon.
I next went to see Mr. Narvaez, to whom also I had an introduction. He is a Mexican and does not speak English
very fluently. As soon as he heard my name, however, he gave me a very warm welcome, and politely said I was the best-known man in the mining world in Pachuca. I spent the whole afternoon with him going over his works and talking shop. He introduced me to several others. After that, at about six o'clock, I called on Mr. Gerault, the manager of a famous mine. He is a charming man a Frenchman by birth, who has lived nearly all his life in Mexico. Wê talked until about 7.30, and then he offered to drive me to the principal mines next morning. He told me how delighted he was with my book, and said all sorts of pleasant things about it. Next morning I met him with his carriage with four mules. We drove about four miles up-hill to his mine by a winding and picturesque road. On the way we called at all the mills and met the managers. It was all very interesting to me. Mr. Gerault took me down his mine, which is about 400 feet deep, and we came out through a long tunnel. A trolly and two mules met us in the tunnel, and we were driven the whole way. At the mouth of the tunnel the carriage was waiting for us, and Mr. Gerault asked me to join him and his wife at dinner. She is a Mexican and is very nice, but speaks hardly any English. .
i6o
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

next letter gives a further account of the hearty
The
hospitality of the mining camps, and is written from the hacienda, or Mexican farm, of Mr. Berrislope.
Hacienda Berrislope, Mexico,
iph
Jug., '08.
had been expecting to hear that the Government officials had finished their deliberations over my Report, which would leave me free to return for the British Association meeting. If I were to start now I could get to Dublin in
...
heard that it will take ten days before what the officials propose doing. I shall therefore have to stay, much as I should like to be with you in Dublin. ... So far everything has gone on satisfactorily for the ultimate success of my mission, and I am enjoying my stay amongst the Mexicans. They are a very interesting and agreeable My trip to Pachuca gave people, and the country is delightful. me some idea of the manner in which the people live. I must now give you an account of the last two days I had at Pachuca. On Monday I went to the Loretto Mill and presented a This letter of introduction to Mr. Brown, the manager. was given to me by Mr. Merrill. When I arrived at the mill Mr. Merrill himself was there and asked Mr. Brown to show me everything. I had an interesting morning, and was introduced to all the heads of the departments. As I was leaving, there were four of us talking together, one an Englishman, another a New Zealander, and the third a Canadian, so I went to lunch with that we were all British subjects. Mr. Merrill, who showed me over the house, which is quite a palace. It was built by an old English company about a hundred years ago. It was recently sold to his company, together with the mines of the English company. It would accommodate about fifty people, and the banqueting-hall holds about two hundred. The old company used to give periodical banquets, and when they sold the house they disposed of some tons of plate made of silver from the local mines.
time, but we have we may expect to
just
learn
There
is a bedroom preserved as it existed when the Emperor Maximilian used it on his
forty years ago,

visit
The
furniture
is
not pretty, but
is
to Pachuca. massive and quaint. Mr.
MEXICO
i6i
Merrill offered to send me to another of his company's mills at Guerrero about ten miles by road. So at eight o'clock next morning Mr. Brown called for me at the hotel with a carriage and four mules, and we drove over a mountainous road through lovely scenery. Dotted about on the hills in all directions were indications of mines that had at one time existed and others that were still working. Some of these mines have been in operation for four hundred years. In two hours' time we arrived at Guerrero, which is a straggling village situated in a beautiful valley. I am told a good deal of it was built by the English company a hundred years ago. The works are surrounded with massive walls built after the style of a castle This was owing to the miners having to in the Middle Ages. protect themselves against brigands. Mr. Henderson, the manager, had everything ready for my reception. I had an interesting morning going all over the works and being introduced to the staff. In the office I met a very pleasant Englishman, who knew me by name when he was in South Africa. He had been for several years there had an interesting conversation. with Lewis and Marks. I got back to Pachuca soon after 3 o'clock, and that gave me time to call on Mr. Merrill to say good-bye. I never met kinder people than those at Pachuca. Everyone invited me to stay if I should ever return there. In the train on my way back to Mexico City a mining man came and asked me if I were not Forbes Julian. He is an Englishman who had been on the Rand, and is now settled in had an interestMexico City as a consulting metallurgist. ing mining discussion on the way. He offered to help me with introductions, and said he would make me a temporary member of the British Club. As we were leaving the train
We
We
he introduced
me
to another mining
I
man.
On
arriving in
Mexico City
officials
went
straight to
Mr. Wiechers,
likelihood of
who informed me
the Government
that, as there
was not
much
coming to a decision in our case for some little time, he had decided on going to the hacienda (farm), and invited me to accompany him. We caught the evening train, and we arrived next morning at a junction called Here we had to wait for a train to take us by a Rincon.
branch-line to Pozos, This took three hours to accomplish. On arriving at Pozos we were the only two passengers left
3t
i62
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
in the train, and we expected a conveyance to take us to the farm, fourteen miles away. However, there was none waiting, but an Indian, who carried our baggage, informed us that the carriage had come in to meet Mr. Wiechers the day before. In the town this was confirmed by a storekeeper. therefore concluded some mistake in the date had occurred, and hired a man to drive out to the farm, to ask them to send the vehicle for us. In the meantime we discovered a most quaint little hotel. It was beautifully clean, although everything in the place looked worn out.
We
The town must have had a large population at one time, it has now a deserted appearance. It contains three goodsized churches that are open, and many that are closed. The
but
town was supported by a number of small mines, which a few years ago were closed as non-payable. The people remaining seem to be very poor.
By 6 o'clock our vehicle turned up. It would seat only two, and was accompanied by a servant and a mule. By 6.40 it became quite dark, and we found the man on the mule of great service, as he rode ahead of us and stopped at every bad part of the road to warn us. We arrived at our destination by 9 o'clock, and were welcomed by a son of the proprietor of the farm, who is a most good-tempered and
genial
man.
He
speaks a little English, but

. .
no one
else
on
the farm speaks anything but Spanish.
The middle of August found the traveller at Guanajuato. In writing home he recounts his further
experiences at the Berrislope hacienda, and his visits to the historic city of Queretaro and to the quaint
mining
city of
Guanajuato, which
is
built in a
narrow
ravine, the houses being
crowded
in steep streets like
stairways.
In the midst of these fresh and fascinating scenes of continuous work his thoughts still turned constantly homewards. As an Irishman, the meeting of the British Association in Dublin naturally attracted him strongly. He mentions in several letters that if he had been in the United States he would have crossed the Atlantic with the object of attending the
and the pressure
MEXICO
gathering.
scientific addresses
163
His wife wrote to him describing the and lectures and the social functions, including a garden party given by the Lord Lieutenant and the Countess of Aberdeen at the Viceregal Lodge, and some performances by the Irish Actors at the Abbey Theatre, together with an account of her northern tour, taken at the conclusion of the meeting, through the fine scenery of the Giant's Causeway, and a southern journey to his birthplace, Cork.
Wood's Hotel, Guanajuato, Mexico,

i^th Aug., 1908.
...
have had
a delightful experience of life
on
Mexican
farm here may be anything from about one thousand to thirty thousand acres and the buildings are of great extent. They consist of a dwelling for the owner,
hacienda.
The
size
of a
who
stabling,
lodges his staff, a store of general merchandise, church, granaries, and huts for the peons (the Indian labourers). The dwelling is built to form a square, with a large quadrangle in the middle. At each outside corner of the block there is usually a small tower containing rifleslots, from which the building could be protected in case of attack from brigands. The doors of all the rooms open into the quadrangle, and the windows look outside the building. great doorway leads into the quadrangle, from which one enters any room. Adjoining is a large vaulted building (that looks like a cathedral inside) for storing the grain. They usually get three crops a year here, and these buildings will sometimes contain many thousand pounds' worth of grain. The peons build their own huts (usually of raw brick), which are mere hovels. On Berrislope's hacienda there are about one thousand of these people, and it is not uncommon to find five thousand on one hacienda. No farm is complete without its church, but there is seldom a priest to any church outside
also
a
the town.
The owner of a hacienda is always expected to be " hailfellow-well-met " with everyone. He generally carries an air of importance about him, but dresses little better than a farm hand. All the staff dine with him. Breakfast is to be had
i64
at
rolls,
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
any time from 4 a.m. to 7.30 a.m. This consists of eggs, and boiled milk to which a little strong coffee is added Dinner is served from i to 2 to suit the individual taste. o'clock, and usually consists of soup, a dish of rice and eggs with chillies, boiled meat, roast fowl, grilled cutlets, beans Supper (a staple dish), and generally some fruit and coffee. begins about 8 o'clock, and consists of one or two meat dishes and abundance of boiled milk with coffee. At 9 o'clock everybody is in bed and fast asleep. The peons live almost entirely on vegetable food, consisting of beans, cooked sometimes with a little fat, and tortillas (a thin cake made of Indian corn and cooked on a hot stone). They also devour quantities of cactus-fruit, which abounds everywhere. The cost of a peon's food is about twopence per day. The peons spend all their spare cash on pulque, an intoxicating drink made from In the towns the poor Indians are completely demoraaloes. They are small wiry people who are lized with this stuff.
for miles. They able to carry great weights often 150 lb. are born agriculturists and look their best behind a plough.
Mr. Wiechers and I left the farm on Saturday and returned by Pozos to Rincon, the same route by which we came. Mr. Berrislope and some friends accompanied us on horseback This is an old Mexican a$ far as the boundary of the farm. custom. At Pozos we went to the same little hotel as before. At Rincon we managed to get beds in the neighbourhood, and were up in time to catch the train which passed at 6.16. This brought us to our destination in an hour and a half, where we were met by a friend of Mr. Wiechers, who drove us to his hacienda. This is a most beautiful farm, kept in After breakfast we were driven over it. perfect order. I decided to go on by myself to Guanajuato, a mining camp I accompanied that has been famous for four hundred years. Mr. Wiechers as far as Queretaro, an historical old town. I found a large hotel, where, of course, nobody spoke English. ... I had time to see something of the town of Queretaro next day, which contains many fine old churches. I caught This my train at 4 p.m. and arrived here at 9 o'clock. is one of the most quaint, old-fashioned cities imaginable. There is not a square of it that is level nor a street that you could see down one hundred yards. ... I have met several mining men, but have still many more to see. ...
. . , . .
MEXICO
How
I
I
i6s
!
should love to slip over to Dublin and surprise you There would have will be a delightful meeting. been no difficulty in my going to Dublin only for a week if I were in New York, but it is too long a journey from here.
know
it
After inspecting the interesting mines at Guanajuato and meeting many metallurgists there, he paid a visit to Guadalajara, which, with the beautiful gorge or
caiion within easy access, affords
all
travellers
much
enjoyment who are fond of fine natural scenery. He also had a great love of architecture, and was therefore glad to have the opportunity of taking photographs of the cathedral at the latter place, where he was fortunate in having the companionship of an American
acquaintance, Mr. Wheateley, who spoke Spanish. This was a great assistance, and rendered the visit even more agreeable than it would otherwise have been. Forbes Julian himself was not a bad linguist : as a schoolboy he had received the usual grounding in Latin and Greek, he also knew French and German fairly well, and he acquired sufficient mastery of the Italian and a slight knowledge of the Spanish language, which proved helpful for ordinary travelling purposes. At Guadalajara he was delighted with the pottery, of soft grey tint, and notwithstanding its fragility brought home many specimens. It is polished but unglazed. Thcrmanufacture of this pottery is carried on in several parts of the country, and the various coloured clays and different methods of treatment produce many pleasing varieties.
Mexico City,
26th Aug.y 1908.
...
Oaxaca.
seen,
believe I shall not be

I
tember 2nd, and
...
and I am Mexico. ...
after about SepMitla remains near have been delighted with everything I have taking photographs to give you some idea of
shall try to see the
wanted here
i66
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
Guanajuato, and in the morning on Mr. Bryant, the general manager of a large group of mines. He was just leaving for the United States, and so I had only a few minutes' conversation with him. His righthand man, Mr. Butler, however, Was instructed to assist me. He showed great kindness in helping me to see matters of Another day I spent with Mr. interest in mining, &c. Van Law and Mr. Callard, two interesting young fellows, and we talked shop the whole day. I also called on Mr. MacDonald, an Irishman he is very genial and showed me all Guanajuato is a most interesting over his mining works. It is said city and contains some very ancient buildings. that the mines were worked in the days of the Aztecs, and in 1536 the Spaniards took possession of them and founded the town, which contains several very fine churches, two theatres, and some nice-looking residences. Nearly three-fourths of
I arrived late at night at
called
the population are Indians,
who
live in their usual little hovels,
which are situated in narrow winding alleys that go up and down hill in the most extraordinary manner. It is a most densely populated spot. On either side of the town are high hills, dotted over with huts amongst the cactus vegetation. I left Guanajuato in pitch-darkness for Guadalajara, and arrived at a junction, where I found I should have to wait
until 4.20 A.M. With the help of the train conductor I got and at 5.5 I arrived at into a comfortable little hotel another junction called Irapuato, which is on the main line to Guadalajara. The train had not gone very far when an American came and asked me if we had not met the day before at Guanajuato. I recognized him as a man to whom I sat had been speaking when buying some post cards. together for the rest of the journey and agreed to go to the
. . .
We
same
His name is Wheateley ; he is a lawyer from hotel. Spokane, Washington State, and exceedingly pleasant, and
We as he speaks Spanish, I found him of great assistance. rushed round Guadalajara in true American fashion and made a great many snapshots, as he is an enthusiastic photographer. Guadalajara is a beautiful town and contains a large number of interesting old buildings. It has a remarkable cathedral that is some 350 years old. I have taken several photographs of it. We were shown (in the cathedral) a famous painting by Murillo. Mr. Wheateley had a general letter of introduction, and he
PLATE
VII
To face page i66
Photo by H. Forbes Julian
CATHEDRAL, GUADALAJARA
PLATE
VIII
To face page 167
INTERIOR OF CATHEDRAL, GUADALAJARA
MEXICO
handed
167
it to one of the priests, who passed it on to some dignitary of the Church, and he came and offered us facilities for taking photographs. He spoke English fairly well and told me that he had been educated partly at an English college.
Our hotel proved very comfortable, and is kept by a German and run in German fashion. We had meals in the open air, on a balcony, and pigeons walked about at our feet picking up crumbs all the time. Our waiter, who rejoiced in the name of Prospero, was quite a character and very entertaining. A young Scotsman and his wife sat at the same table, and when he heard my name he asked me if I was Julian of Julian and Smart's book. He turned out to be a mining man. One morning we went by train to a magnificent gorge or canon. It was a delightful run through bea-utiful country. We had travelling musicians on board who enlivened us most of the time. The gorge is full of tropical and semi-tropical vegetation and is a grand sight the foliage is gorgeous, giving
. . .
splendour to the scene that is indescribable. . The climate at Guadalajara is superb and several degrees warmer than Mexico City. We left there after having spent some very pleasant days together. . . .
a
.
A few days later he visited Orizaba, in which place he found much that was attractive on account of the quaint houses and streets, with the picturesque surroundings near Popocatepetl. Originally it was a Chichimec Indian town, its former poetic name, Ahauializapan " J07 of the water " being derived from the fact that here many mountain streams cross the valley. This city has a pathetic interest, as it was one of the favourite resorts of the unfortunate Emperor Maximilian and the Empress Charlotte, Writing home on August 31st, the traveller says
am now at Orizaba (about eighty miles from Vera Cruz) the midst of grand mountain scenery. This is a very quaint and picturesque town, and is near the snow-capped volcano of Popocatepetl. To-morrow I am going to Puebla, thence I take train to Oaxaca to see the remains of ancient
I
in
Mexico.
PLATE X
To face page 169
SAN DOiMINGO CHURCH, OAXACA, MEXICO
MEXICO
We
169
to slope downwards. soon got into a gorge between hills that towered six thousand feet above us, and by 2 o'clock had descended over one mile. Here we were amidst lovely tropical vegetation palms, cactus, bananas, and^hundreds of varieties of beautiful flowering plants. This continued for four hours, when we again rose to the elevated land where Oaxaca is
situated.
The
railway
;
is
an English company
it
winds
narrow-gauge and is owned by its way in a most zigzag fashion
along the banks of the rapid stream. We arrived at Oaxaca in the dark ; it is a charming old city containing some very fine churches and other interesting buildings. Santo Domingo Church has a most gorgeously decorated interior. The cathedral has an imposing exterior, and I took several photographs. There is also another remarkably fine old church. ... In a niche over the door of one of these old churches is a statue of the saint holding a
.
gridiron*
The market is a most picturesque sight it was Saturday morning when I was there, and it was filled with a motley crowd of Indians. The people in this part of Mexico look
;
exceptionally happy and well fed, but they do not suffer from a superabundance of clothing.
I arranged as soon as possible for a vehicle to take me to Mitla, some thirty miles by road, where the ruins are to be seen. carriage met me driven by a boy of about twelve, a bright intelligent little fellow who drove with the confidence of a man of forty, and it took five and a half hours to reach Mitla. I got into a comfortable hotel, the meals being served out of doors under the shade of orange-, lemon-, and banana-trees. It was truly a lovely spot. waiter was even younger than the driver, and probably only about ten years old I spent some hours in the afternoon going over the marvellous Mitla remains and taking photographs. Portions of the ruins are in a wonderful state of preservation and look as if the stones might have been set only a few years ago. The ornamental designs are geometrical, of quite distinctive character, and very finely and beautifully cut. It is all intensely interesting. There is an underground passage that is in as good a state as when it was built a perfectly wonderful and remarkable spectacle. The buildings show from their striking and strangely specialized style of architecture that there must have
My
170
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
how long ago one can have but a dim idea. There are even finer ruins to be seen in the neighbouring I paid a second visit to the ruins in the State of Yucatan. visit proved morning and took some more photographs. of exceptional interest, but I was all the while longing for more time. It was too much of a rush, as one did not get sufficient time to realize the marvellous character of all that
existed a highly advanced state of civilization, but
My
one saw.
I
member of the British Club, and met some of . the members yesterday, and we had several talks of home.
a
. .
am now
Unfortunately, some long letters giving further of the marvellous remains of ancient Mexico at Mitla and elsewhere are missing. Although his knov^ledge of prehistoric archaeology was not extensive, the examination of the ruins stirred him to unwonted enthusiasm. During his brief visits in September he devoted all the time available to their survey, taking photographs and getting drawings and plans in the few days that could be spared from professional engagements. Concerning the geometrical character of the design referred to, it may be interesting to quote a passage from the Presidential Address delivered in 191 2 by Dr. Maudslay at the Royal Anthropological Institute. " To This eminent authority on Mexican art says me the decoration of Mitla appears to be a translation of textile and basket work into stone, influenced of course by the motives that are most prevalent in all
descriptions
:
American art." At the end of September the traveller visited El Paso, on the American border, and in the following letter mentions some of his impressions of the pageant which he witnessed on the Mexican Day of Independence before his departure. The promptitude with which he left the country after his final interview with the Mexican Director of Patents gives a characteristic
PLATE
XI
To face page 170
Ht.
,.
-^m
RUINS OF MITLA
(By kind permission of the Royal Anthropological
Institute)
PLATE
XII
To face page
171
RUINS OF MITLA
(By kind permission of Royal Anthropological
Photo by Dr. Maudslay
Institute)
MEXICO
ling.
171
glimpse of the celerity of his movements when travelAllusion is also made to the festivities on the President's birthday, almost the last before the revolution. Diaz ruled the country with the heavy hand of a master, but he developed its resources by encouraging He was an eminently practical foreign enterprise. man, whilst the patriotic Madero was a dreamer, thinking only of " Mexico for the Mexicans."
St. Regis
Hotel,
El
...
cisco.
little
I
Paso, Texas,
2ist Sept., 1908.
am now
in the
I
United States en
going to
.
route for
On my way
am
call at Prietas,
. .
San Franwhich is a
way over the Mexican border. There were several public holidays coming on when I arrived from Oaxaca, and therefore I had not much chance of
an interview with the officials. Instead I paid a hurried visit to El Oro, where there are several large mines which I wanted It was eight hours' journey to El Oro, which is situated to see. The people at the mines at an elevation of ten thousand feet. all know me by repute, and were very kind in showing me about. The town contains nothing of interest, but the mines are amongst the finest in Mexico. They are owned by English and French companies. The route to El Oro is through beautiful mountain scenery, the vegetation being now at its best. The flowers were charming and the colouring indescribable.
There are great

pink,
fields
full of
single-coloured wild flowers
and white many of which I I got back to recognized as garden varieties at home. Mexico City on the President's birthday, but after dark and too late for the ceremony. I was, however, in time for the illuminations and fireworks and the sight of young Mexico
yellow,
blue,
purple,
celebrating the occasion. . . . On the following day, the i6th of September Mexican Independence Day there was a great military and naval I had a seat in an excellent position and saw everypageant.
thing capitally.
The Mexican
is
soldier,
not smart-looking.
His uniform
whether on horseback or on foot, is cumbrous and gives
172
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

of being clumsy.
procession, however, are as smart a set of
At the end of the regiment of rough-riders, who men as one could see anywhere. Their uniforms were made of soft leather cut in Mexican fashion, and they wore large Mexican hats. They sat on their horses I am told that this regiment as if they were part of the animal. was formed of the roughest and most unmanageable element of the countryside rebels, thieves and highwaymen, but since they had uniforms and were given the policing of the most unruly districts, they have become useful members of the army. In the evening the whole town was again illuminated, but the energy of the people to a large extent had been spent the evening before and they did not show the same enthusiasm. On the following day I visited the Director of Patents for the last time. ... As there was nothing else to keep me in Mexico, I left the same day. I have arranged to return via San Francisco, so that I could explain to Mr. Butters and Mr. Crosby exactly the position of affairs. ... I arrived here last night, and expect to leave again to-morrow. This is a typical American town where everything is up to date. It is a tremendous contrast to the towns over the border.
him the appearance
came
The traveller returned to Mexico for a brief visit to the mining district of Prietas early in October. He had spent about three months in the country, and it had been a time of long journeys, much mental and physical exertion, and of varied interesting experiences. The expedition had been entirely successful both from a scientific and a professional point of view, and had also been fruitful in fresh antiquarian observations. He always looked back upon his visit wonderful and unique archaeological remains of to the ancient Mexico as one of those events in his life of which the memory could never fade away. After staying for a short time in Texas and New
Mexico, he visited Tucson in Arizona for a few days, breaking the journey there on his way to the Pacific
coast.
CHAPTER XIV
CALIFORNIA
westward to California, which he had not visited for fifteen years, Forbes Julian stayed for a short time at Los Angeles and Pasadena, where he was delighted with the sunlit skies, the beauty of the scenery, and the luxuriant subtropical trees and plants. In the following letters to his wife he alludes to his various engagements. These letters from the United States were hastily written in the intervals of travelling and professional work, but they give an outline of his labours at the time, so that through them he is enabled
Naturally many to relate the experiences himself. passages are passed over that were written for his wife alone, but in all his correspondence not one harsh or thoughtless word concerning others has been found which might have necessitated omission, the letters and their outlook being invariably kindly and imparting an intimate touch, revealing his character. Those
written from Mexico have been quoted with a fullness of detail that might appeal to his mining friends ; the rest of the correspondence is selected briefly for general readers. This is an inevitable difficulty in presenting a full life's work from the special to the For friends it should be full ; for general outlook. the public at large restrained ; and the task of a biographer is to discriminate between the two extremes. Writing in October 1908 from Los Angeles, he says
173
PROCEEDING
174
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

We
... I left Tucson in a Pullman sleeper and had a fairly passed through pleasant trip, although it was rather warm. a place that is said to be one of the warmest localities on earth ; This was, however, in the night, it is 270 feet below sea-level. and I did not notice anything oppressive. In the morning everything was covered with alkali-dust. After getting through the desert we passed hundreds of miles of orange-groves, where
everything looked highly prosperous.
I
arrived here yesterday
and saw a good deal of the town in the afternoon. This morning I called on Mr. Blaisdell, an engineer, and he invited me on a motor tour. We drove all through Pasadena, which is a lovely place. It is the best residential part and is beautifully laid out with subtropical trees and plants. The palms are magnificent. I have seen a good deal of the town, which contains some fine streets and the best shops I have met with in America. The climate is very pleasant the people were calling it hot, but it was no warmer than an ordinary summer day in Torquay, and the evenings are cool. I leave to-morrow morning for San Francisco.
.
.
In San Francisco friends in plenty were awaiting him, and he was received with cordial hospitality by Mr. Rickard, Mr. Crosby, and other mining men. This, however, could not compensate for the great disappointment of missing his English mail, and the following letter is worth quoting as it incidentally shows the writer's love of home.
Hotel
St. Francis,
San Francisco,
iph
Oct., 1908.
Los Angeles on Sunday morning ; the line runs quite close to the coast for about three hundred miles, and it did my eyes good to see the beautiful ocean again. The sea was calm, but there was a heavy swell which produced magnificent breakers. We had brilliant sunshine, and the colouring on the waters, which varied from a bright pale green to a deep purple, was perfectly exquisite. We arrived here at midnight, and the next morning I hurried off to the office, when they told me that all my letters had been forwarded to New York. ... It has spoiled all my pleasure
I left
. .
.
...
CALIFORNIA
here, for
it makes news from you.
.
175
me
.
feel
very anxious
when
am
without
Not having been in San Francisco since the earthquake and the fire, which swept away street after street of magnificent buildings, Forbes Julian was greatly distressed to see the evidences on all sides of the dreadful desolation and ruin that had been wrought, and he briefly alludes to the effect of the rebuilding of the city in the next letter.
Hotel
St. Francis,
San Francisco,
16th Oct., 1908.
and I am quite happy, for two of the One letters you sent to New York were forwarded here. was written from RusselPs Hotel, Dublin, and the other from the Giant's Causeway Hotel. I was delighted to get them. San Francisco is being rebuilt very rapidly, but the effect of the earthquake and the fire is still apparent in places in the heaped-up ruins showing the extent of the disaster. . Although there is nothing It is an absolutely new town.
The sun
shines again
pretty or attractive in the appearance, there This freshness in every building one enters.
excellent one
. .
is
a pleasing hotel is an
and is beautifully furnished. rhave been put up as a member of the Pacific Union Club, which is the Millionaires' Club, and have also been offered the privileges of a member of the Bohemian Club, which is more
.
interesting, being the club of Talent.
have been kept busy
by callers, and have been invited out to lunch every day. This morning I met Mr. T. A. Rickard, a Cornishman from Belfast, who is greatly appreciated in the mining world.
. .
It was a great enjoyment to visit many of the old haunts that had been familiar to him on his previous
and especially Cliff and that exquisite part of the bay named the Golden Gate, where such a beautiful scene greets the eye. From this vantage-ground the views of the sparkling sea, flooded with sunshine, are
visit,
full of variety
and charm.
176
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Hotel
St. Francis,
San Francisco, 22nd Oct., 1908.

have been sight -seeing, but cannot enjoy it all alone without ... I have been twice to Cliff, a lovely spot on the coast (about three-quarters of an hour by electric tram) where the famous seal rocks are to be seen. During my first visit the wind was strong and there were no seals, but the second time several made their appearance. When I was here fifteen years ago there were hundreds of seals on the rocks, but I am told that many have now, unfortunately, disappeared. Several miles of the route to Cliff are along that beautiful part of the bay known as Golden Gate. On Monday I went to lunch with Mr. T. A. Rickard, who is editor of the Mining. and Scientific Press, and met an engineer, Mr. Bosqui. Mr. Rickard is very good company and told us some excellent stories. Every day I meet mining men who invite me out to their places, but I am so closely occupied that I have to decline. The weather is as variable here
I
you.
as at
It
home. is one day pleasantly warm and the next day
cold.
Whilst in San Francisco he received the satisfactory news from Mexico that their case had been successful but he was detained longer in California than had been expected, for although Mr. Butters, who had been
absent, soon returned, his brother-in-law, Mr. Crosby, was extremely unwell so at this juncture Forbes offered to help with the pressure of their Julian
;
professional work.
Hotel
St. Francis,
2'jth Oct,, 1908.
San Francisco,
Crosby's correspondence, as he is too ill to attend to business. He had another relapse of heart trouble about a week ago, and the doctors think his case serious. I was very sorry to find him prostrate when I called to see him on Saturday. He is a thoroughly nice fellow. ... I went to Mr. Butters* house on Sunday and stayed the
I
At present
am occupied at the office answering Mr.
CALIFORNIA
177
We have had several beautifully warm days, and it night. was delightful crossing the bay to Berkeley, where he lives. We have just received a cable to inform us that we have succeeded in our case in Mexico, so that my mission there has been successful. We are doing very well in our case in New Mr. Binney has managed without me, but at the Jersey. next hearing he says I must be there to help him in technical
matters.
. . .
He was daily expecting a summons to New York, and hoping afterwards to be able to return to England. In addition to the time spent with Mr. Butters, he paid many visits to Mr. Crosby in his illness, endeavouring to cheer the invalid's sad and lonely hours.
The
results
next letter describes the publication of the
Taft
becoming known of the election of President and an account is given of an expedition to

Tamalpais.
Mount
Hotel
St. Francis,
San Francisco,
^th Nov,, 1908.
tame and unexciting During the day no one would have realized that affair here. In the evening there were there was an election going on. some crowds round the newspaper offices. The results, as they became known, were shown by lanterns on screens, and in the intervals between there were cinematograph illustrations, but there was no display of enthusiasm. I sat in the hall Then I went to the of this hotel looking at the results. Millionaires' Club and spent the evening reading the Spectator, Saturday Review, and other home papers,
Presidential election was a very
.
. .
The
To-day I went with two friends to the top of Mount TamalIt is half an hour by steamer to a pretty place called pais. Here we got a train that took us to the top of the Sausalito. hill in about two hours, by a most extraordinary and winding The scenery on the way is very beautiful and varied. line.
We started in cold damp mist that lay all over the bay, but the train soon emerged into most glorious sunshine, and on the top of the hill it was just like midsummer. On the one
M
178
side
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

we looked down 2500 feet on to the Golden Gate, and slight haze we could see the islands and the ships
through a
on the ocean.
On the other side was a vast expanse of white mist that looked like billows of snow. How delightful it would be if you were here
! . . .
of travel in the Far West are following reference to the transexemplified by the continental journey of some Scotch friends :
vicissitudes
.
,
The
Last night
went to
see
Mr. and Mrs. Johnston.
They came
a circuitous route, as he had to see some machinery in an out-of-the-way place on the journey, so they were eleven days crossing, of which seven of the nights were spent
For two days they could not get proper meals, were no dining-cars on the train. Over a portion of the way they were obliged to take tourist sleepers, which broke down two or three times and made the train twenty-one hours late. Mrs. Johnston declares she had to undress and dress three times in one night through having to change
in the train.
as there
cars.
.
was not until the middle of November that he was able to leave California. Proceeding to Chicago, he had the unpleasant experience of a breakdown of twelve hours in a Nevada desert. This he took with the customary composure of an old traveller. Few things disturbed his equanimity on a journey, excepting
It
the failure to receive home letters. In Illinois the weather was so cloudy that he could not enjoy the view of the lake, which he had seen with so much pleasure on former visits ; but he had the satisfaction of meeting some of his German mining friends of the old Frankfort days during his
short stay. Writing from Chicago on November 24th, " I have almost concluded my business here he says and expect to leave to-morrow for New York, and I hope to finish there also in a short time now, and will then be speeding off again to dear old England."
:
CALIFORNIA
The end
of the
179
in
month found him back
New York
festival
in time for the public holiday
and harvest
on
Thanksgiving Day. He records the fact that the weather was damp and gloomy, while such a dense fog occurred as seriously to interfere with the shipping and delay the start of the Lusitania of the Cunard Line and other fast Transatlantic steamers. By great good fortune he was not detained long in New York, and arranged to sail early in December, Reaching Liverpool on the 13th, he was able to arrive at Torquay on the following day in time to spend Christmas with his ynit at " Redholme."
CHAPTER XV NEW YORK AND NEW JERSEY

year 1909 opened brightly for Forbes Julian inasmuch as he was happily settled at home once again amongst a pleasant social circle after his long absence abroad, and on New Year's Day itself a large number of friends gathered at " Redholme " to welcome him back. Frequently summoned to London by reason of increasing pressure of work during these opening weeks of the year, he yet returned to Torquay whenever
possible.
THE
Amongst other
friends
staying there this winter
were Bishop Boyd Carpenter, General Sir Peter Lumsden, Dr. Vaughan Cornish, the traveller and scientist (who had recently returned from Panama), and Colonel John Weir, a Scotsman who had been much in America. In view of what was later destined to occur, it is strange to note that on one occasion while the Colonel was taking tea at " Redholme,"
Lady Alice Leslie also being present, the conversation between Colonel Weir and Forbes Julian turned chiefly on voyages across the Atlantic. Three years later both the Colonel and Forbes Julian perished on the Titanic, while two of Lady Alice Leslie's nieces, the Countess of Rothes and Miss
Gladys Cherry, were also on the doomed vessel, but were mercifully saved in the boats. Whilst discussing the perils of the deep, the curious coincidence was
recalled that
Mr. Forbes, the great-grandfather

180
of the
NEW YORK AND NEW

subject of this memoir, had been
JERSEY
drowned not
i8i
far
from his Aberdeenshire home after having travelled round the world and taken various long voyages.
Likewise Mr. Pengelly, the great-grandfather of the present writer, the captain of a vessel, had also perished
of the land
by drowning on the Cornish and of his home.
coast, almost within sight
On
Julian
reaching
London
:
early
in
January
Forbes
met
several colleagues,
and wrote home on the
" I arrived in time for the evening of his arrival Board meeting, at which I gave my Report, and left them all in good humour. I had a long talk with " Humphreys, who was interested in the news. In town he also met his German friend Herr Crohn, from Berlin, and Mr. Anderberg, the Swedish ViceConsul.
.
. .
week later he received a cable from Mr. Binney stating that his presence would be needed in America shortly for the Butters lawsuit.
Writing to
I
his wife
on January
21st,
he says
am
at
you
getting on with my work, so that I expect to be with Torquay on Friday. I will try to get everything ready
to leave England at a day's notice, in case of need.
have met several friends
...
^Pollard
Digby, Crohn, Anderberg,
and others.
Concerning these hurried voyages Herr Crohn " Mr. Julian was like a soldier, wrote somewhat later always ready to start off on professional work at a few hours' notice." Although he faced light-heartedly enough the prospect of another journey and voyage in " winter and rough weather," this summons to cross the Before Atlantic again so soon was most unwelcome. his marriage he had greatly enjoyed travelling at all now he was unhappy alone, but consented times
;
82
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
to go when needed on technical matters for he was, above all, faithful to the profession he had chosen. Fortunately, it was found that he need not leave until the following month, and on February i6th he started for Southampton, his wife accompanying him on the first stage of the railway journey. That summer the British Association was to meet at Winnipeg and he was to read a paper before the Engineering Section. He was therefore looking forward to returning to England and starting again with the members for Quebec at the beginning of August. He was, however, detained in New York until July, so his wife went out in that month to join him for their Canadian tour. Reaching New York at the end of February, he was closely engaged with professional work during the
shown by extracts from the correspondence in which he mentions many of the details of his interviews with Mr. Binney and Dr. Chandler and describes his daily life in the city. In the first letter quoted he alludes to the festivities on
spring, as
his
with
wife,
St. Patrick's
Day.
The
letters are all written
from the Murray Hill

:
Hotel, and bear the following dates
1 8/^ March, 1909. was a great day was the seventeenth a day that would have filled St. Patrick himself with enthusiasm had he been in Fifth Avenue to witness a procession of seventy-five thousand men and hundreds of thousands of sightseers. It was a regular gala-day for Pat. The police, being all Irish
...
It
cleared Fifth Avenue of the over entirely to their countrymen. At St. Patrick's Cathedral there was a grand service. Every Irish society had its band and played the most stirring Irish airs. The sightseers wore some sort of green emblem, and I
situation,
it
and masters of the millionaires and gave
NEW YORK AND NEW

am
enclosing you
Irish
JERSEY
183
my
little trefoil
that I bought for one cent.
The
was in tears at having to leave her friends in the middle of all their festivities. . I have sent you a New York evening paper with an account of the Irishmen.
at the hotel
. .
chambermaid
A lover of animals, his broad sympathies were always exerted to better their condition or mitigate their sufferings. He enjoyed making frequent visits to the Zoological Gardens when in New York, and in the next letter describes one of these expeditions to the Bronx Park.
2,0th March, 1909. Sunday vvâs a brilliant spring-like day, and in the afternoon went off to Bronx Park. I took the third Elevated railway
to the Botanical Park Station, just opposite the greenhouses, and had a pleasant walk through the shrubbery to the part
where the animals live. There have been some changes in the Gardens since you were there. The elephant -house is now finished and tenanted. It is a splendid house for the purpose and is highly ornate. There are three large elephants and two small ones, one of the latter being quite a baby. There are two tapirs like the ones we saw and a baby only a few months old. There is also another variety of tapir (Malayan), a fine hippopotamus, and several other animals in the house. ... I spent an interesting hour with the birds and then wandered over the grounds.
. . .
By the beginning of April some progress had been made with regard to the taking of testimony, and he
home, and mentions a fact volume on cyaniding was much appreciated in America. Although very modest about his work, he was naturally gratified by the kind manner in which his colleague Dr. Chandler brought the
describes this in writing
which shows that
his
matter to his notice. He cared little for personal renown, but valued very highl/ the warm regard of
his friends.
84
It
is
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

2nd Aprils 1909.
six
.
.
weeks to-day since I arrived here, and it does seem . such a long time. Yesterday (Thursday) was a busy day, for it was the first taking of testimony, and I must tell you how it is done. We met at Mr. Binney's office, which (for the time being) becomes the court that is, during the taking of testimony When taking testimony of witnesses of witnesses on our side. on the other side we all meet at the opposing attorney's office. In this case Dr. Chandler was " on the stand," and there were also present the two attorneys, a plaintiff's representative, and myself. An examiner is supposed to preside, but if the two sides are agreed they can proceed without him. This time no examiner was present. Everything is arranged beforehand between his attorney and his witness as to the questions that will be asked, and the answers are discussed for days and weeks prior to the witness being put " on the stand." The attorney then asks a formal question, which is taken down by a typist, and the witness dictates to the typist his answers. The witness is allowed any books, papers, or notes, and is also allowed to revise his answer afterwards if he thinks fit. The testimony is typed in triplicate, one copy being for the court and one for each of the attorneys. Of course, in the cross-examination (when that comes) there is no preparation between the witness and the opposing attorney, but the witness is allowed papers, books, &c., to consult as he may wish, and is allowed plenty of time to arrange his answer. When all the testimonies are taken on the two sides the evidence is put before the judges, who decide from the evidence placed before them whether the plaintiff has a case or not. These preliminary proceedings are very informal, as you may imagine. The witness is given every opportunity to make the best answer he can, and is allowed as much time as he likes. The next hearing is to be on Tuesday, when Dr. Chandler proceeds with his testimony. He may require five or six days, and after that I am to go on the stand, but I think it will not take more than two days for all I have to say. To-day I went to Binney's, where (with Dr. Chandler) we prepared
'
more testimony.
Dr. Chandler asked me to-day to tell you that he asked the metallurgical man on the telephone if he had any books
NEW YORK AND NEW

on the cyanide
a dozen,
JERSEY
185
process. The reply was that he had about half but one of them was much better than all the others. " Well, send me that one,'' said Chandler, and when it arrived it turned out to be Julian and Smart's work.
. .
.
A visit made with Dr. Chandler and the assistant, Mr. Cressey, to the Columbia University afforded him much pleasure he was always interested in inspecting a laboratory and eager to hear the details of any fresh discovery from the discoverer himself,
;
realizing clearly the necessity of visiting

in
different countries the
methods
in use
and comparing amongst
chemists and mining men.

6th Afril, 1909.
Saturday morning Dr. Chandler rang me up and asked me to meet him at the Grand Subway Station, as he wanted me to see the Columbia University. We arrived there at 10.15, and after going over his laboratories he took me to see his museum. It is a collection of everything manufactured in various parts of the world which involves a knowledge of chemistry in any one of its branches. It is intensely interesting, and a perfectly wonderful collection for any man to have got together. After that I went over the buildings with his assistant, Mr. Cressey, a delightful young fellow who had been last summer for a tour to see the European universities. It was Saturday afternoon, and most of the men were away, but I was introduced to two of the professors in the School of Mines. ... On Sunday after lunch I crossed over to Brooklyn by ferry and walked back via the new bridge that was opened last week
. .
.
On
for foot passengers great length.
and
t
vehicles.
It
is
a fine structure
and of
was particularly interested to hear of your pleasant visit from the Bishop of Ripon and Mrs. Boyd Carpenter, and I hope you will enjoy going to Miss Boyd Carpenter's weddingparty at Kingswear.
I
On Easter Sunday he heard an eloquent sermon from an Irish clergyman, and during the week carried out
86
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
an experiment with Dr. Chandler at Columbia University, where he was glad to avail himself of the opportunity of meeting various well-known scientific
investigators.
iph
Jprilf 1909.
wandered as far as Broadway, and on passing the Criterion Theatre I saw announced there Jn Englishman's Home, and not having seen one for a
Saturday
in the evening I
On
...
long time, I strolled in. The piece was fairly well acted, but it seems to be hardly suited to a New York audience. The house was well filled and I think a large proportion of the audience were British. Four young fellows sitting near me
were
all British,
and one told
me
he came from a
village in
Essex near where the scene is laid. Easter Sunday was a brilliant day with a crisp, frosty feeling in the air. The churches were crowded and the streets thronged with people. I went to a church in Fifth Avenue, where the clergyman gave an excellent sermon. He was unmistakably an' Irishman. The building was very prettily
decorated.
whom we
Yesterday I joined Binney at Dr. Chandler's house, with stayed for dinner, and did not get away until after 10 o'clock. To-day Dr. Chandler spent from 11 till 5.30 " testifying." He says this is one of the most complicated
.
cases with which he has had to deal. It is probable I may be giving expert testimony next week. . On Wednesday I went to Columbia University, and Dr. Chandler and I carried out an experiment in connection with
our
case.
He
has to " testify " to the result.
was introduced to
several of the
most eminent
professors.
another legal matter in connection with the Butters Company Binney suggested consulting Griggs (Colonel Weir's friend), and we went over together. Griggs used to be the Attorney-General of the United States, and he strikes one as a very able man and full of interest. .
Filter
. .
On
day.
Whilst in New York he kept his forty-eighth birthIn the next letter he alludes to this and also
NEW YORK AND NEW
JERSEY
187
to the Engineers' Club, where he frequently mining friends and acquaintance.

yth
I shall
met
May,
1909.
!
be forty-eight next Sunday, nearly half a century I told Binney my age was forty-seven, but when I am put on the stand I shall have to say that owing to the length of the case I must alter my age, and that I hope I shall not have to
again before the case is finished Friday I went to lunch with Mr. Schneider at the Engineers' Club. He is an interesting man and I had a delightful conversation with him. . Yesterday I stayed at the hotel writing, but on hearing over the telephone that there was a letter at the office, I rushed down town by the subway express. When I saw from it that you were well after the influenza and going out it made me feel all right again. I was delighted to hear of your being appointed as the first lady to serve on the Committee of the Natural History Society and their delegate also to the British
alter
it
! .
On
Association.
think as the time comes near for the British Association of the geologists and metallurgists will want to go to Cobalt. I understand that it is a wonderful formation. I have just had a letter on business from the King Edward Silver Mines at Cobalt, and I am known there by name.
I
some
I wish I were with you having tea in our garden. The weather ought to be lovely in Torquay now. Here it is quite cool, but the young green on the trees looks beautiful.
.
This month, which he was accustomed to pass with among scientific associates in London, seemed somewhat desolate to the traveller when spent alone in a New York hotel, although the kindness of American friends was much appreciated and always gratefullyhis wife
acknowledged. His interest in the daily occurrences of life at home remained as keen as though he were present, and he was relieved to know that the generosity of a Torquay friend, Sir Thomas Bazley, had rescued a picturesque
88
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
corner of Devonshire from those utilitarians whose chief desire seems to be that of destroying whatever beauty they can reach. The early years of the century were remarkable for the rapid progress made in the solution of scientific problems, and he was anxious to keep in touch with the work of some of the learned societies of London, for, although devoting himself assiduously to his favourite study, he had a wide and varied interest in other branches of science. His wife sent him reports of the different meetings, and also described the gathering to which they had been invited at the Albert Hall, where the Prince of Wales presented medals on behalf of the Royal Geographical Society to Lieutenant Shackleton and his brave comrades of the South Polar Expedition.
1
8/^
May,
1909.
be quite an exodus from Torquay for London. It looks strange here to go up Fifth Avenue and some of the other residential parts and find half the houses with shutters up when the season in London is at its height. Within the last two weeks there has been quite a diminution in the number of carriages and motor-cars in Central Park and Fifth Avenue. I am glad to hear the Ilsham valley has been wrested by Sir Thomas Bazley from the hands of the builders. I always think that is the most charming part of Torquay. We have had some lovely walks together down the valley. I hope you will go to all the usual meetings while in London and will write and tell me about them, and particularly the scientific societies and the reception for Shackleton. I see from the papers that London is especially
I
expect there will
now
full this season.
I went to the office and put in five or six hours' writing, and then wandered through Central Park. I cannot describe to you how beautiful the park is looking, with thousands of trees and shrubs in blossom, which
Yesterday morning
rnake a perfectly fairy scene.
The
little lake
has round
its
NEW YORK AND NEW
JERSEY
189
full
edge a number of drooping trees laden with wistaria in bloom, producing a charming effect.
in the
Closely occupied during June, it was not until late month that he could obtain the rest and change
needed from the exhausting heat and airlessness of New York by going to reside at Atlantic Highlands, from which place he could conveniently visit the city. After settling, he describes his new surroundings and the charm that this beautifully wooded and attractive
seaside-country district of
New
Jersey exercised over
him.
Atlantic Highlands,
New
Jersey,
June 1909. We have had a week of very hot weather with several bad thunderstorms. The temperature was over 90 on Saturday as I went to the office. I stayed there only a little while and then took a steamer for Sandy Hook. It was delightfully cool and fresh on the water. I went to "Atlantic Highlands,"
one of the nicest spots I have seen near New York. It is purely residential and is surrounded with beautifully wooded country. I engaged a room at a house on the highest part of the land, where one gets perpetual sea-breezes. There are only about half a dozen people here as yet, and they all seem very agreeable. I removed here on Sunday, and yesterday morning when I woke up and heard the birds singing I felt as if I were back in dear old Torquay. The sea trip of two hours a day is a great attraction, and the wonder is that everybody does not want to live at Atlantic Highlands in the summer instead of in New York. The house is beautifully situated, and I think you would like being here for a while. I have been making inquiries about going North, and find that there are good steamers as far as Albany, up the Hudson, from which point we could go in any direction for Canada. It may be hot travelling in the trains in July and August the heat generally comes in waves that last three or four
.
.
days.
In the following
letter,
written in July, he describes

a
some boating expeditions made with Mr. Greig,
190
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

whom
he soon became intimate and
Scotsman with
who showed him much kindness. Becoming acquainted

also with several of the visitors as the hotel filled, he was soon able to fraternize with the new-comers. He
also expresses his pleasure at the prospect of again
meeting
his wife.
Atlantic Highlands,
New
The
Baltic
is
Jersey.
makes a good voyage she ought to get you here by noon on the Saturday. ... It has been very warm the last two days, and as there was not much to do at the office I gladly stayed at Atlantic
(I believe)
a splendid ship.
If she
It is much pleasanter living here than in New York ; in fact, any of the outside places are preferable to New York hotel life. ... Mr. Greig (to whom the boat belongs) is very glad to have a companion, and he and I had six hours' sailing together on Saturday. We spent Sunday morning sailing about in the bay very slowly, as there was only a Hght breeze. In the afternoon a strong breeze sprang up, and we had a fine sail. In the evening a thunderstorm cooled the air. On Monday I went to New York and spent most of the day at the office. To-day I was again at the office, and while I was writing Mr. Garthwaite (Mr. Butters' partner) turned up from London. I am looking forward to your arrival and to our Canadian There is a great deal to be seen in the trip with delight. short time at our disposal.
Highlands.
His wife had remained in London until July to enable her to go down to Eastbourne for the wedding of his cousin Lieutenant Eric Neligan with Lelia, daughter of Colonel Sir Charles and Lady Alice Fitzgerald, where she met a large number of his Irish The bride was Irish both on her father's relatives. side and on that of her mother, who had also been a Fitzgerald before marriage, being a daughter of the fourth Duke of Leinster. Nothing could exceed the kindly hospitality of Sir Charles and Lady Alice, and
NEW YORK AND NEW

It
JERSEY
191
was greatly regretted by his numerous connections that Forbes Julian could not be present. Sailing immediately afterwards on the S.S. Baltic, his wife enjoyed the companionship of Professor and Mrs. Myres, of Oxford, who also were bound for the British Association meeting at Winnipeg, the professor being president of the Anthropological Section this
year.
Forbes Julian met the vessel, and his wife had the opportunity of seeing his friend Mr. Greig, who spoke warmly of his pleasure in her husband's society on the boating trips and mentioned how useful his knowledge (acquired from the old sailor Tipper at Shaldon) had proved on various occasions.
CHAPTER XVI
CANADIAN TOUR FROM QUEBEC TO VANCOUVER
(Compiled from Mrs. Forbes Julianas Journals)
leaving the heat of New York behind, turned northvârds to Montreal, staying there, however, but a few days, en route for Quebec. Reaching this beautiful city, set on a hill, with its rocky foundations, they drove up the narrow winding streets to the Hotel Chateau Frontenac, which occupies a site unequalled for fine and extensive views. They passed the twilight of the summer evening on the famous Duiferin Terrace. Far below was seen the St. Lawrence River flowing
travellers
GLADLY the
towards the east, and in the harbour every kind of craft, from the great ocean liner to the tiniest canoe ; whilst the lights of Levis began to glimmer in the gathering darkness. Coming from the largest city of the New World, the home of business and commercial enterprise, the quaint Canadian capital with its halo of romance, stirring the pulse with memories of past days, afforded a remarkable contrast and spoke at every turn of the heroism of one of Britain's greatest sons. The city has little that is English about it, for although several generations have now been living prosperously under the British flag, yet the language and religion of old France remain almost unchanged. The street scenes somewhat reminded the visitors of those in the old towns of Normandy and Brittany, the French Canadians, although contented members
192
FROM QUEBEC TO VANCOUVER

their mother-tongue
193
of the British Empire, having the deepest devotion to
and the Catholic Church. It will be remembered that Jacques Cartier was the first European who sailed into the St. Lawrence, and that he spent the winter of 1535 at the base of the cliffs of Quebec whilst the French fur-trading companies soon afterwards made it their headquarters, and in the following century it became a French stronghold.
;
Naturally the greatest attraction to British visitors must be a visit to the historic Plains of Abraham with all the memories of strenuous strife the death of Wolfe in the hour of victory and of his great antagonist, Montcalm, who died of his wounds at an adjacent convent a couple of days after the fatal field of September 1759. The importance of this victory can hardly be over-estimated ; it was indeed the pivot of the war, for on September 1 8th Quebec capitulated, and in the following year (1760) Vaudreuil, the last French governor, signed a document surrendering Canada to Britain. Wolfe's success, by which Canada was incorporated in the British Empire, made the loss of the thirteen American colonies less disastrous. After these scenes (so eloquent of the undaunted courage both of the victor and the vanquished) had been thoroughly studied, visits were made to the historic Citadel, the Parliament Buildings, and the celebrated Basilica, begun during the reign of Louis XIV, when his influence extended to the New World, Quebec being the seat of the French power in America and the picturesque and prosperous capital of New France. Here the costly vestments were shown to the visitors and also many fine paintings, the most famous picture probably being that of our Saviour on the Cross, painted by Van Dyck. It is interesting to recall the fact that at the time of the French Revolution some Roman Catholic priests
194
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
secured several rare paintings and had them sent from Paris to Quebec, where many are still to be seen. On Sunday, service was attended at the Anglican cathedral, and on other days visits were paid to places in the Lower Town, an entertaining scene being witnessed in the open market-place, where the farmers and their families display their simple goods, much French being spoken, which is the case in all the thoroughfares and business centres of the city. An expedition was also made to Levis, on the opposite shore, this being a place of some historic associations. Looking back across the mighty St. Lawrence River, a fine view is obtained of the Citadel and the Dufferin Terrace, the spires of the churches in the city shining out clearly in the bright sunlight, The steep, narrow streets and quaint little houses of Levis give it quite an old-world character. Other interesting expeditions within easy reach are the fine Montmorency Falls and that spot dear in the annals of the Canadian Catholic Church, the famous shrine of Sainte Anne de Beaupre. Leaving Quebec with regret, the travellers passed through the pretty and prosperous town of Three Rivers, proceeding thence to Montreal for a second visit. This celebrated city, the largest in Canada and the greatest in commercial importance, is also famous historically, for as long ago as 1535 Jacques Cartier discovered here the ancient Indian village of Hochelaga,
and somewhat later it was visited by Samuel de Champlain. In the contest for supremacy in the New World between England and France its story stands out conspicuously, as it was the last place which passed into English hands, being yielded up to Britain by the French in 1760. During a century and a half of peaceful progress the two nations have now continued flourishing in Canada side by side.

During
their stay the travellers
195
were taken to several by Professor Stanfield of the McGill University. The church of Notre Dame and the Anglican cathedral were visited, and service attended The Law Courts and the Bank of at the latter. Montreal were not forgotten, and the McGill University was thoroughly inspected. The city has many fine buildings, and as they were staying at the Windsor Hotel in Dominion Square they were centrally situated, and were impressed by
places of interest
the prosperity of the cosmopolitan city as evidenced by the shipping, the manufacturing establishments, and warehouses. One of the chief attractions is the mountain park of Mount Royal, owing to the charming walks and the panorama thence obtained of beautiful views of the surrounding district and the St. Lawrence
River.
The
capital,
next halting-place was Ottawa, the Federal
in the ancient capital,
was interesting to visit after staying Quebec, and the commercial capital, Montreal. The city is a creation of recent times, and is pleasantly situated at the junction of the Rideau River with the Ottawa. It is divided into the Upper and Lower Town, and stands on high ground overlooking a fertile valley. The morning after arrival was spent in viewing the Government buildings,
it
which
which crown the great bluff overlooking the Ottawa River and are stately and imposing. Rideau Hall, the residence of the Governor- General, was also visited. Another break in the journey westward was made at North Bay, situated on beautiful Lake Nipissing, where a few other members of the British x\ssociation, geologists and mining engineers,were already assembled, and on August 17th the party proceeded northward to Cobalt. This mining district affords one of the most remarkable stories in the history of recent Canadian
196
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

It
metallurgical progress.
was discovered accidentally
in 1903, and is noted for the narrow rich veins of silver which are found traversing ancient quartzites and
conglomerates that have been invaded by diabase.
The Sudbury
field (at
some
distance)
is
also of great
commercial value, giving Canada control of the nickel market of the world. An animated controversy has taken place as to the Professor Coleman and some origin of the ores. authorities consider them to be due to direct segregabut other tion from a molten rock, a norite gabbro eminent professors, on the contrary, relying on the microscopic structure and sequence of the minerals, are of opinion that the ores must have been deposited
;
long after the consolidation of the adjacent igneous

rocks.
At Cobalt
men
a group of earnest and successful mining are engaged in careful investigations and experi-
ments. Whilst staying there Forbes Julian and his wife were the guests of Mr. Rogers, and were among most congenial friends, meeting Mr. R. W. Leonard, of St. Catherine's, Ontario, and other Canadians eminent in the mining world. The following description of the neighbourhood may
be quoted
There are numerous small veins, probably averaging four inches in width, with very high values in silver, together with cobalt, nickel, and arsenic. ... In prospecting, cobalt bloom,
pink-coloured decomposition product of the is looked for. If traces of it are found, the rock surfaces, both those which are exposed and those which are soil-covered, are carefully examined. Much of the prospecting consists in digging trenches through the soil to the compact rock below. Nuggets of silver, freed from cobalt and nickel minerals by the weathering of the latter, also frequently give evidence of the presence of veins. At times if the veins are covered by drift material, the undecomposed
the
delicate
cobalt-arsenides,

veins are found immediately below the soil
surfaces.
197
and show^ glaciated
veins throughout the six or eight square miles in which those rich in silver are found show no uniformity in strike, and in nearly all cases their dip is vertical. There are
The
which productive veins have been found. Lower Huronian conglomerate and graywacke slate. A few are found in the older Keewatin and a few in the younger diabase.
rocks of three ages in
Most
of the veins occur in the
Intent on making himself master of what Had been done in Canada, it will be readily understood with what enthusiasm Forbes Julian studied on the spot the methods in use and discussed with Mr. Rogers, Mr. Leonard, and other acquaintances matters connected with his favourite study, thus gathering information concerning the equipment and operations of various mines and metallurgical establishments in the Dominion. The Cobalt silver veins brought about the same result that the auriferous placers of California, British Columbia, and Australia effected in earlier times. They attracted not only miners, but also other classes who came to the region and thus effected its settlement more rapidly than in regard to the slower but surer industries of lumbering and
farming. In addition to availing himself of the experience of the mining acquaintances met with, several visits were paid to the mineral fields, which were studied under their guidance, and no more admirable environment could be found to inspire a metallurgist. One great advantage and benefit as to science is its
catholicity, a feeling of
brotherhood seeming to
exist
between the workers

a scientific
in all parts of the world, so that
man has friends everywhere. Enjoyable drives and water excursions were also taken during the week, the fine Temagami Lake and surrounding forests making up a scene of sylvan beauty
198
of
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

effect
:
of the water
which the impression long remained. The and forest has been thus described
Many-hued and soft-shadowed as the morning light plays on pine- and spruce-top, on waving birch and quivering poplar, clear-cut and bright in on dark cedar and brilliant maple rich in purple, crimson, the strong light of a Canadian midday and gold as the sun goes down vague, soft, and silvery in the moonlight mysterious and overwhelming when the sun has
; ; ;
set
behind the
hills.
Continuing their journey across the continent, the with them from Cobalt kindly recollections of their visit and of Canadian hospitality. The views obtained from Lake Superior more than
travellers carried
repaid
lakes
them for the fatigue of the journey. Most have a charm which appeals to the lover of nature, but Lake Superior, the largest and noblest inland expanse of fresh water in the world, must impress even the least poetic mind. Proceeding onwards from Fort William, the railway line traverses a wild and romantic region diversified by
rapid rivers, large lakes, and fine forests. After leaving Keewatin a beautiful scene is afforded by the Lake of the Woods, which is studded with islands. As the line runs on and Manitoba is entered the country slopes gently down and melts into a plain, assuming gradually the characteristics of the rolling prairie. The Red River is crossed by a long iron bridge, and Winnipeg, the centre of manifold progressive activities, is finally reached. During the gathering of the British Association the sections of Chemistry and Engineering met in the University of Manitoba, whilst that of Physical Science was accommodated at Wesley College. The meetings were in every way successful, and many citizens of Winnipeg, together with representatives of science from all parts of Canada, the United States, and Great Britain, assembled on August 25 th to hear the Inaugural
199
Address of Sir Joseph Thomson. In this discourse the President touched on the importance of original research as a means of education, and dwelt on the advantages and disadvantages of the present school and university systems as a training for work in science ; alluding also to the light thrown by recent investigations on the nature of electricity ; on the relation between matter and ether the part played by ether in modern physics ; and discussing some problems raised by the discovery of radium. The meetings at Section A, under the presidency of Section B, where Dr. of Professor Rutherford Armstrong was chairman ; and of Section G, at which Sir William White presided, were noteworthy and important, gaining a high place in the records of the
; ;
yearly gatherings.
Forbes Julian was now a member of committee both (EngineerB (Chemistry) and of Section ing), in addition to serving on the General Committee He had not only a keen interest of the Association. in his own profession, but also a wide scientific outlook. The programme of the meeting was unusually full and attractive, evening lectures being delivered by Dr. Tutton on " The Seven Styles of Crystal Architecture " and by Professor Herdman on " Our Food
of Section
Several receptions were also held the week, and the Lieutenant-Governor received the members at Government House on Friday, 27th. On the Saturday the metallurgist and his wife went with other friends to a garden-party given at Silver Heights by Lord Strathcona, who had shown them much kindness on different occasions. A quiet Sunday was spent in attending service at They had the pleasure also of St. John's Cathedral. the society of Dr. Du Moulin, Bishop of Niagara, a genial Irishman who had known many of Forbes
from the Waters."

during
200
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

The Bishop was
settled at
Julian's relatives at Cork.
the Royal Alexandra Hotel, where they were also It was convenient to be so centrally located staying. during this busy week, as many functions were arranged at the hotel, two taking place on Monday, 30th, when a luncheon party, given by Devonians in Winnipeg to Sir William White and Forbes Julian as the two special guests, was held there ; and also a reception of all the members in the evening. On the following day Forbes Julian was prostrated
by
This a sudden feverish chill and loss of voice. prevented him reading his Paper at the Engineering Section, which was much regretted by the chairman, Sir William White, who considered it an important contribution, giving the solution of some of the problems at which the author had been working. Rallying with a couple of days' rest, he fortunately recovered sufficiently to start for Vancouver on the special train kindly provided for the official party. Winnipeg commands the trade of a large region, being situated about midway between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and it was not without regret that the travellers left this pleasant progressive place where they had experienced so much friendliness and hospitality. Starting just before midnight on Thursday, September 2nd, they sped rapidly onwards through Manitoba. This is the pioneer province, the Red River Settlement in these fertile valleys being for a considerable time the only agricultural community of this western district, and having grown from small beginnings to its present eminence. Southern Manitoba is a wheat-growing prairie, whilst the northern parts of the province are broken by large lakes and vast forests, the woods and the minerals forming a source of wealth for many generations yet to come. The climate is delightful, the air being dry and sunny in the day and
201
cool at night. Portage la Prairie and Brandon (one of the largest grain markets in Manitoba) were soon passed and the Regina plain entered. At the attractive capital of Saskatchewan the party arrived early
and were met by many of the leading Motor drives and walks were taken during the morning and the chief buildings visited. The men of the party were publicly entertained at luncheon in the City Hall, the ladies being received by the Lieutenant-Governor and his wife at Government House. Proceeding onwards to Moose Jaw, another warm greeting awaited the members. The time has gone by for regarding the Colonies with coldness or apathy, and most persons of British race are now interested in Imperial questions. But even the greatest enthusiasts of Imperialism with the expedition, or those who regarded such matters with aversion as mere racial prejudice and greed, were equally united in
on the
3rd,
inhabitants.
expressing the opinion that the loyalty of many of the Canadians, and the warmth of their affection for the Mother Country, could hardly be estimated by those who had never travelled through the great Dominion. In his Inaugural Address at Winnipeg the President's
opening remarks had been received with unmistakable appreciation when, in speaking of this Canadian visit, he said
:
Men
it
of science
welcome
it
for the increased opportunities
able conditions different parts of our Empire,
most pleasant and favourand of making new friends. Such meetings as these not only promote the progress of science, but also help to strengthen the bonds which bind together the different portions of the King's Dominions.
gives
them
of studying under the
At Regina and Moose Jaw the national flag floated on all public buildings, and under a triumphal arch erected in the latter city speeches were delivered
202
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

warm
welcome.
devotion to the Empire, as well as Later in the day, at the banquet held in the skating rink, the King's health was received with the utmost enthusiasm, and loyal speeches were listened to with the same fervour and warmth of feeling. The province of Saskatchewan is noted as a great wheat-growing country on account of the fine climate and fertile soil. Here again the nights are cool and pleasant even after the hottest days. Western Canada is growing most rapidly in wealth and importance, the phenomenal agricultural progress of the three provinces, Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and Alberta, forming a remarkable record in the history of the distant territories of the Empire. On Saturday, September 4th, a short stay was made at Gleichen to view a band of Indians, this picturesque incident adding to the variety of the journey. Gleichen and the neighbouring stations adjoin the Blackfeet Indian Reserve. Early that afternoon Calgary was reached, and on arriving in Alberta the same cordial welcome was extended to the visitors as in Saskatchewan and Manitoba. Here Mrs. and Miss Pinkham, the wife and daughter of the bishop of the diocese, came to greet Forbes Julian and his wife. Bishop Pinkham (whom the present writer had recently met in London) was unfortunately absent, but the kindness of his family added much to the pleasure of the day. So it was that everywhere in Canada the travellers felt at home in every sense, and scenes which to the eye were strange seemed familiar through the friendliness of
expressive of
of hearty
their
hosts and guides. Besides those who were Canadian-born and thought of Great Britain as of the land of their forefathers, there were many who had made the Dominion their home and yet had loyal
longings for the land of their birth, of their family
203
and friends. The problems confronting the young and vigorous provinces vêre freely discussed. Here these subjects could be approached vîthout the
influence of those heritages of the past that appear sometimes to vêigh so heavily upon the present in older communities. It will be readily understood that with a large mixed population an interesting economic and political situation is created, and that the questions affecting the Canadian people are numerous and complex. Forbes Julian and his wife had the privilege of being present on more than one occasion when the subject of naval defence in connection with the maintenance of British supremacy at the present critical epoch was discussed by Sir William White and certain leading inhabitants of the cities through which they passed. Sir William's admirable summary of the situation was listened to as the demonstration of a master, and not only with close attention but also with cordial sympathy. Calgary is pleasantly placed on a hill-girt plateau, overlooked by the white peaks of the Rocky Mountains, and it is the most important city on the Canadian Pacific line between Winnipeg and Vancouver. After an enjoyable stay, during which many institutions and public buildings were inspected, the members were entertained at an evening banquet, and their special train was entered again at night. The cathedral appears to be the centre of much useful work, and a feeling of brotherly co-operation exists in Alberta between members of the Anglican Church and those belonging to other Christian bodies, the only rivalry in social service being an honourable emulation in good works. Some conversation was held with Bishop Pinkham's family concerning the needs of the colonial Churches and various matters, such as the bringing of Christian teaching to bear on
204
the
lives of
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
the settlers. The hardships encountered by the pioneers, the difficulties overcome, and the sacrifices made for the Empire produce fine and selfbut in a nev^ and wealthy country reliant characters is frequently a tendency for the people to become there
;
materialistic.
When
settlers
coming
from
Great
Catholic, and Free Churches already established in the Colonies many of them loyally support their places of worship ;
Britain find Anglican, Presbyterian,
Roman
but if for years they remain out of touch with their former spiritual life great difficulty is experienced in again gathering up the threads. The secular education in Western Canada is excellent, and it is a matter of importance that the atmosphere of church life at home should be maintained so as to develop the vitality of the Christian life and combat the growing danger that materialism and spiritual apathy might gain permanent hold on the people. Alberta contains one of the richest soils in Western Canada, and has recently made marvellous strides in grain-producing ; it is also known as a great stockraising district. In addition it has mineral wealth
a bracing climate, the summer and early autumn being specially delightful. The fertile river-banks are well wooded with groves of aspen, poplar, and spruce ; tranquil lakes also diversify the landscape and enhance its beauty, and the valleys are carpeted with turf and fragrant with many a wild flower. The most attractive part of the tour was now at hand, and on Sunday, September 5th, the travellers awoke to find themselves in the impressive scenery of the Rocky Mountains. A bend in the line brings the train between two almost vertical walls of great height, this being the Pass by which the mountains are entered. In approaching the station appropriately named The Gap a marvellous view is obtained of Wind Mountain,
and
205
the Three Sisters, and other rocky ramparts of the district where Nature is seen in her grandest aspect. After passing the corral with a number of buffaloes, Banff was the next stopping-place, this being the station for the National Park, which embraces parts of the valleys of the Bow, Spray, and Cascade Rivers, and also Lake Minnewanka, thus preserving a beautiful bit of country untouched. Here several magnificent mountains meet the eye. Laggan and lovely Lake Louise, enshrined amongst the hills, were visited the
same day.
Not
far distant are
Lake Agnes and Mirror
Lake, both of which lie literally above the clouds and the celebrated Valley of the Ten Peaks is within easy access. The quiet Sunday spent amongst such surroundings was much valued, these scenes of marvellous majesty and grandeur being calculated to impress the mind with profound reverence and awe. The beauty of Lake Louise is too famous to need further description, with its varying green, blue, and purple shadows, which change with every hour of the day. Field (with the well-known fossil beds) was soon reached, and the following day many hours were spent in viewing the Illecillewaet glacier in British Columbia. The mountain peaks. Sir Donald, the Eagle, the Avalanche, Roger's Pass, the Selkirks, and the Hermit range, seen towering above and lifting their bold peaks and snow-capped summits far into the blue sky,
a series of supremely beautiful pictures which be long remembered, and especially the sunrise in the heart of the mountains. The mighty glacier with its surface lit up and flecked with many hues in the sunlight aroused great enthusiasm, particularly amongst the geological members, who were deeply impressed by its beauty and interest. On the walk through the winding wooded paths from the station to the glacier, Forbes Julian and his wife had the pleasure of accom-
made up
will
2o6
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
scientist
panying Dr. Smith Woodward, as the distinguished was with the party, being President of the Geological Section. The whole of the journey from Calgary to Vancouver (a distance of considerably over six hundred miles) is remarkable for the romantic character of the scenery, the mountains and valleys where the shadows lie darkly forming a striking contrast to the sunlit prairies.
Arriving at Vancouver early on Tuesday, September 7th, the morning was spent at this picturesque place, the Pacific terminus of the railway. The city has already many fine buildings, abundant prosperity being everywhere evident, whilst its growing commercial advantages and rapidly increasing resources bespeak a still greater future. It is a centre of much activity, its mercantile and social eminence having been achieved in the last quarter of a century. The commodious land-locked harbour, with the excellent steamship service of the Pacific, has added greatly to its importance and prosperity. Its chief attraction is Stanley Park, which with the magnificent trees of gigantic growth forms one of the noted pleasure resorts of the continent. Crossing by the Canadian Pacific steamer Princess Charlotte to Victoria on Vancouver Island, the travellers took up their residence at the Empress Hotel, which commands a fine view of the harbour. Victoria has been aptly described as " a transplanted section of old England " ; the climate has the softness of Devonshire, and the town is peculiarly English in some of its characteristics. It is situated at the southern extremity of the island, overlooking the Straits of Fuca to the Pacific and the Gulf of Georgia towards the mainland. Owing to the clear atmosphere Mount Baker, situated eighty miles away in the United States, can be distinctly seen. In the evening

a reception
207
which
was attended at the Parliament House, most imposing building. On the following day one of the residents, Dr. Proudfoot, kindly took Sir Duncan Johnston and Forbes Julian and his wife for a long motoring expedition, passing through the naval station of Esquimalt and some of the most beautiful scenery in the island. They returned in time to bid adieu to the other members of the Association who were starting for Vancouver and Winnipeg. The metallurgist had wished to continue the tour to Australia, but time did not permit of this. He, however, was anxious to take his wife to see San Francisco, and to return eastwards through the States ; he was also desirous of visiting some mining men at Grass Valley. Although this suggested a pleasant programme, they parted from their friends with much regret. Nearly a month had been spent with several members, mineralogists and geologists whom they had joined at Cobalt. The tour had been in every way enjoyable. It had brought Forbes Julian into contact with several leaders of British science, and he had formed acquaintance (and in some cases friendships) with many Canadians famous in the mining world whilst traversing the continent from Quebec to Vancouver. A further short stay was made in the island. This enabled him and his wife to become better acquainted with the pleasant city of Victoria and its impressive Government buildings, and to enjoy drives and walks taken amongst park-like groves with the fine trees for which British Columbia is celebrated. Leaving soon afterwards for Seattle, in the United States, the short voyage was much enjoyed, with the fair expanse of ocean, bright blue and beautiful, bearing on its waters yachts and boats of all kinds, spreading their sails
is
before the Pacific breeze.
2o8
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Seattle
At
the
important
Alaska-Yukon-Pacific
which gave some idea of the Exposition was potentialities of the Alaska and Yukon terrigreat tories both to the United States and Canada. From Seattle they struck southward for Portland, where a short time was passed in this charming district of Oregon, a drive taken on the Portland Heights furnishing many varied and extensive views. Leaving Portland, they proceeded by rail to Oakland, and crossing to San Francisco, were soon settled at
visited,
the Hotel St. Francis (facing Union Square in the heart of the city), which had been the metallurgist's headquarters during the previous autumn. Here he was welcomed by an English friend, Mr. G. S. Simpson, and some mining men of the district, and it afforded him much pleasure to take his wife to Golden Gate and Cliff House, where the glorious views have long been famous. In spite of the indescribable chaos and confusion caused by the earthquake and the fire, traces of which are still visible at every turn, the city, like other American centres, throbs with life and movement. Electric trams speed by in various directions; wagons driven by black men roll noisily through the
streets pedestrians, including many Orientals, crowd the side walks ; carriages and motors flash past in apparently interminable lines. The city is much more attractive than New York or Chicago, and the lovely views obtained of the Pacific were greatly appreciated, the harbour being one of the most beautiful in the world. The remarkable progress of California during the last half-century is typical of the rapid methods of
;
American business
enterprise. The fine foliage was admired, but at Sacramento, which was the next stopping-place, the flowers and plants were even richer and more varied. The mining district of Grass Valley, situated in the midst of charming Californian
much
209
scenery, was also visited, where some acquaintances were met with. Continuing their journey eastward,
they proceeded through Nevada. In Utah, after passing the Great Salt Lake, a short The journey was then stay was made at Ogden. continued through the States of Wyoming, Nebraska, and Iowa to Illinois, only a short time being spent in Chicago, where the lake is the chief attraction. This busy centre (which Forbes Julian had frequently visited) is not a city of one race but of several with Here great enterprises are its vast tide of humanity. undertaken and remarkable industrial results accomHowever, its chief features have been so plished. fully described by other travellers that any further account is unnecessary. Leaving for Buffalo, it was disappointing that time did not permit the continuing of their journey to but they were Toronto, as they were so near Canada hasten southwards to New York. obliged to During this journey across the continent they had fortunately secured a private compartment, otherwise they would have been in the Pullman car with its numerous occupants. In these cars travellers have to go into their berths fully dressed and, after fastening the curtain, to undress in a cramped and crouching position. The unpleasant character of a long journey under such conditions can readily be imagined.
;
The general holiday prevailing in New York for the Hudson-Fulton celebrations enabled the metallurgist
wife.
to spare a day to see the picturesque pageant with his October and November were spent at Atlantic Highlands, in New Jersey, where they enjoyed the society of Mrs. Briggs, the widow of an Episcopal clergyman of New York and daughter of the late General Duryea of the Northern Army. This lady's
two
sons (both officers in the
United States army)
2IO
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
often visited their mother, and related many incidents of the Cuban War, in which they had been engaged. This was the more interesting to the visitors as they had also gathered trustworthy accounts, from the Spanish point of view, from their friend Madame la Comtesse de Alcoy, whose late father-in-law some years previously had been commander of the troops in the
island.
In October Sir William and Lady White sailed for England on the R.M.S. Mauretania, and the metallurgist and his wife were present to bid them and other
friends good-bye.
Through
Section, to
Sir William's presidency of the
Engineering
which he had induced Forbes Julian to contribute a paper, and from their having been the two guests specially entertained by Devonians at the and also owing to the close banquet in Winnipeg association which the long journey on the British Association train had brought about, the metallurgist obtained frequent opportunities of cementing a friendship with one whose scientific attainments he had long admired. The sister ship, the Lusitania, had been inspected in the spring, so that it was of additional interest to have some of the special features of the great liner explained by such a well-known expert in nautical matters, and it will be easily imagined how clear and illuminating the eminent naval constructor made every detail on which he touched. During October and November Forbes Julian was closely engaged with technical matters in New York in collaboration with Dr. Chandler and Mr. Harold Binney, throwing himself with renewed enthusiasm into this work, after the various visits made to mining centres in other parts of the States and in Canada.
;
CHAPTER XVII
FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS THE ATLANTIC
the remainder of the autumn the travellers returned to ^ England by the R.M.S. Oceanic, They landed at Plymouth by tender (whilst the steamer anchored to put off the mails) at four o'clock on a bleak December morning anxious to reach their home expeditiously and arrived at Torquay not long
in
Jersey,
spending AFTER New
afterwards.
The home voyage had been marked by stormy weather from the commencement, the sea running in great ridges and the Oceanic mounting the crest of the waves and dashing clouds of glittering spray over the wild waste of waters. Though able to enjoy the trip in spite of the prevalent gales, they saw but little of their fellow-passengers, as many were suffering severely the whole way. Out of nearly a hundred saloon passengers a mere handful appeared for meals or ventured for a walk on the upper deck. The details of this crossing were uneventful, although a week at sea seemed ever enjoyable to Forbes Julian, to whom
the sight of a ship, the society of sailors, and the incidents of a sea voyage were always a great pleasure, sufficing to inspirit him, however fatigued by overwork
he might have
felt
on
starting.
in England after the stormy passage and the long interval of ten months abroad, he was glad to revisit his old haunts in Torquay, for
On
arriving
safely
his
fondness for travelling and a

zii
wider
life
never
212
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
weakened his love of home. When a few days had been spent in Devonshire, however, he hastened to London, where the usual Board meetings and correspondence awaited him at the office of the Butters Company. He also again took up active participation in research work, assisted by the fresh facts observed
in the course of his journeys.
Pleased to be in town after prolonged absence and to meet Mr. Rickard and other associates, he wrote home in December describing his movements and his
meetings with friends. Christmas was spent at home, and in January 1910 he attended in town one of the Friday evening lectures in Albemarle Street given by Sir James Dewar, seeing many familiar faces amongst the audience. He writes
:
eight
reached the Royal Institution a few minutes after and saw Sir William Crookes, Professor Silvanus Thompson, Mrs. Ayrton, Miss Gladstone, Major and a host of others, who asked and Mrs. MacMahon for you, and many of them kindly wanted me to look them up. . .
I
...
o'clock
During his week-end visits at home, gatherings given by Sir Peter and Lady Lumsden, Sir Francis and
Lady Layland-Barratt
at the
Manor House, Colonel
and Mrs. Cary, and other Torquay friends afforded opportunities of seeing many Devonian neighbours and acquaintance. At the beginning of February he heard of the goldfever in Canada, whither many people were already
flocking in hot haste.
It will
be seen that his thoughts

:
were more concerned with quiet country life than with the acquisition of wealth. He wrote home
There seems to be considerable excitement
the
in
Canada about
gold-rush north of Cobalt. It is said that thousands have already gone there, and I hear Mr. Butters was amongst
new
FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS ATLANTIC

. . .
213
them. It must be intensely cold there now. I would rather be in Devonshire. This is a fine frosty day, and I expect it is perfectly beautiful in Torquay.
Always deeply interested in the great Dominion, he enjoyed later in the month going to a Canadian reception at South Kensington, and wrote the following account of
it
to his wife
I have just returned from the Maple-leaf party. There were numbers of people present. I do not think there were many other members of the British Association, but I saw Lady Knightley of Fawsley and Miss Williams. I got there about four o'clock, and heard some French-Canadian recitations that were very well given, and also several charming FrenchCanadian songs. The best part of the whole entertainment was Miss Cameron's lecture on her travels in the North-west. She has an excellent flow of language, and with a large number Whilst tea was of fine slides made her subject very attractive. going on I went into another room, where some good slides were being shown of the scenery we visited on the Canadian Northern Railway. After that I returned to hear the second part of Miss Cameron's lecture, which was not over until I was glad to read in one of the mining a quarter to seven. papers that our friend. Professor Coleman of Toronto, has been awarded the Murchison Medal from the Geological Society
this year.
On
February 15th
Sir Ernest Shackleton lectured at
Torquay on the Antarctic Expedition, and it was a pleasure to meet him and Lady Shackleton again and to hear the recital of his remarkable exploit, which
(as regarded his own achievements in recording how the dangers of the way, the pitiless cold, and other diffiIn a culties were overcome) was more than modest. conversation after the lecture he described, in his cheery and light-hearted manner, further details of the journey. A letter received from Professor Harley later in the month alludes to Forbes Julian's wish to visit Australia,
214
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

gives a glimpse of the mathematician's activities,
and
of his meeting wîth the Bishop of
London, and
their
mutual
interest in
temperance
vôrk.
Athen-eum Club,
22nd Feh,, 1910. was kind of you to remember my birthday in January. It is certainly something to have passed my eighty-second milestone. Truly, goodness and mercy have followed me all
It
the days of
I
my
life.
was interested in your remarks about the Americans and your Canadian experiences. I wish you could have gone on from Vancouver to Australia (as you desired), for then I could have compared notes with you. Last week at our monthly meeting of the London Board of Congregationalists we were favoured with a visit from the Bishop of London. He came early, had tea with us, and won all hearts by his brotherliness. The secretary introduced me to him and we talked together about a variety of things, such as the Athenaeum Club, the late Archbishop Temple, Oxford, temperance, &c. He wanted to know if our men were keen on temperance, as that was one of the things he was going to speak to us about. His subject was "Our Common Enemy," which he said was hydra-headed drink, impurity, subtle unbelief, worldliness, &c. He told us that he was made a teetotaller by a brickSome years ago he was taken to a temperance meeting bat by two good women. Friends of " the trade " were trying to upset the meeting, but he and others resolved that they should not do so. There was a great row, and a brickbat was thrown at his head, missing him by only a quarter of an inch. That did the business He has been a teetotaller ever since. He gave us a clear, earnest, straightforward talk. Have you gone back to America yet for that prolonged law trial ? You will be thankful when you have not to leave home in this hurried way.
In the middle of March a cable was received from York begging Forbes Julian to come out immediately. This intelligence was communicated to his wife in the following note from London, dated March 1 6th
New

On
me
215
arriving at the office this morning I I went immediately to be in New York about the 30th. to see what boats were sailing, and found the most suitable were the Adriatic or the Kaiser Wilhelm II. I hope to go down to Torquay by early train on Friday, and this will give
found a cable asking
us three or four days together before leaving.
should
like
had Easter with you, but perhaps I shall be able to get back soon, as I want so much to have this summer at home.
to have
Returning to Torquay on March i8th, he had the pleasure of meeting several friends the same afternoon Lady Selina Stuart, Lady Olpherts, Colonel Aplin, Mr. Alfred Davis (a civil engineer), and others coming in to see him and his v^îfe before his departure. On the 19th his aunt, Miss Neligan, arrived from Croydon to spend a few days at " Redholme," and an interesting
engagement
vâs
formed to meet
Sir
John and Lady
Kirk at a friend's residence, Argyll Hall, when the former gave some account of his life-work passed in the cause of helping neglected and suffering children, in the prosecution of which he has displayed such great steadfastness and faithful devotion. The metallurgist's love of children and care for their welfare was not the least important of his characteristics, and shows how little his heart was hardened by the
passing of the years.
From off Queenstown he wrote to March 24th from the R.M.S. Adriatic
his
wife on
:
as follows
left Southampton punctually at 11 o'clock and arrived Cherbourg at 6, as the sun was disappearing behind the horizon like a ball of fire and the moon (which is nearly full) was just arranging (as they say in Ireland) " to serve us for
We
at
night in the dark." The ship is fairly well . . is a pleasant young Canadian next me. He comes from Ontario, and crosses very often. Next to him is Mr. Allen, a kindred spirit, since he is a cyanide man who has travelled a great deal. There are large numbers of English people on board, a party of French, and some Americans.
lamplight
filled.
all
At
table there
2i6
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
Almost immediately after he left England a letter had been received from his Canadian friend, Mr. Leonard, who was anxious to secure his professional services, but, unfortunately, Forbes Julian was unable In a letter to undertake any technical work for him. to the present writer two years later Mr. Leonard
says
:
If his services
had been
available, there
I
advice in that particular line authority.
was no one whose would consider of equal
Mr. and Mrs. Leonard had been in London during March, and had just missed seeing him. Writing home from the Murray Hill Hotel, New York, on
April 5th, Forbes Julian says
:
letter enclosing the
I found your one from Mr. Leonard. What a pity I did not see him in London I have been to see Phelps, Dodge, and Co., the great company with whom Colonel' Weir used to be connected. They asked Johnston to bring me over to see them, and I think they would like me to help them in the development of a new process, but (as yet) nothing has matured.
I
!
.
When
got to the office on Saturday morning

.
Early in April he had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Greig and Lieutenant Briggs, whom he had known at Atlantic Highlands. Frequent mention is made in letters home during the spring of visits to the Players' Club, and also to Bronx Park, revealing his sympathy with the animal world. Writing on April 12th, 1910, he says
:
People are interested in this big copper process scheme that promises such great things. If successful it may be almost as important as the cyanide process. This evening a friend drove me in his motor from the office to the hotel. On the way we stopped at the Players' Club, and he put me up for a fortnight. This is one of the most interesting places I have seen in New York. It is in a fine old mansion left for
. .
.
217
the purpose by Brooks, the great actor. The walls are covered with pictures and relics, everything being most Bohemian. There are no formal introductions amongst members, and everyone is expected to speak to other members and be on
friendly terms.
altogether
has a library of rare books, and most picturesque. Sunday was a brilliant day with a pleasant, cool breeze, and I hastened early out of town to see the animals at Bronx Park.
The Club
is
the
place
The middle
of the
month found him
settled at
Montclair enjoying the Jersey, the fine golf links, and country
beautiful scenery of
life
New
of that
pleasant locality. At the end of April he had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Leonard in New York and acting as his guide to General Grant's tomb and the Central Park, when
various metallurgical investigations were discussed.
Montclair,
Jersey, 26th April, 1910. On Saturday morning I went to the Cunard Pier to meet the Campania, which was expected about lo o'clock. Mr. and Mrs. Leonard were very glad to have some one to meet them. They were not leaving until the 6 p.m. train, and we first drove to the Belmont Hotel and then went in a motor to Grant's
New
because an American, on thing it was. Mr. Leonard, who had recently seen Napoleon's tomb in Paris, said that he thought " they might have done better for their idol." Afterwards we wandered about the Central Park. The trees, creepers, and flowering shrubs are just now looking lovely, and they were delighted with the park. We next went back to the Belmont Hotel, and then I saw them off. I had a very interesting cyanide conversation with Mr. Leonard. ... He was much interested in the new copper process, and told me he had purchased a copper mine in Canada. ... He wants me to go to them for a week or so when I have time.
tomb.
the way out, told
They wanted to see them what a
this
fine
It will be
remembered with what
sincere
sympathy
2i8
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

;
and sorrow the news of the death of King Edward a further proof of this is was received in the States afforded by the next letter, which shows how much he was in the thoughts of those in the New World.
MONTCLAIR,
loth
N.J.,
May,
1910.
only subject talked about since Saturday was the King's The It was a shock that no one was prepared for. death. papers here speak very warmly of him, and I hear that the pew that he used at Trinity Church when he visited New York On as Prince of Wales is screened off and draped in black. Saturday all the business houses had flags flying half-mast, and It is a the exchanges closed immediately after opening. great loss, and very sad that the King could not be spared to King George will have see the affairs of State more settled. a hard task before him.
.
The
Beautiful spring weather was now being experienced New Jersey, and the quiet Sundays there were a source of relief and refreshment after the rush and On May 17th, writing restless life of the great city. from Montclair, he says
in
:
went to the
early,
office
Montclair
baseball
place.
on Saturday morning, but got back to and had a pleasant afternoon watching a
game and (later) the golfers. Montclair is a beautiful Sunday was glorious and I had a delightful walk over the " mountain," which is a wooded hill about two hundred The wild flowers were in bloom, and I collected feet high. The a large bunch of violets and found a beautiful orchid. wild cherry and the peach-trees, and numerous flowering Afterwards shrubs, make the scene most picturesque. I joined Greig and his friends, so I had practically the whole day out of doors. On Friday there is to be a memorial service for the late King at Trinity Church, and I much wish to attend it.
.
Writing on May 20th, the day of the King's funeral, he describes the evidences of mourning in New York and the demonstrations of loyalty in Canada. The

keen,
if
219
somewhat
unscientific, interest taken

is
by many-
people in the comet
also
mentioned.
On Wednesday night the streets and house-tops were full of people looking out for what might happen as we pass through
the comet's tail ; nothing unusual, of course, occurred, but the Northern Lights illuminated the sky slightly. To-day the flags are half-mast throughout the city, and many of the business places about Wall Street are heavily draped in black and purple. ... I see in this morning's paper that the Canadian Pacific Railway has arranged for a three minutes' cessation of all work on the whole of their systems ; not a single machine is to move. This is in honour of the late King.
proposition is still undeveloped. It refers to a copper-extraction process somewhat on the lines of the cyanide process, and promises great things. It is patented by the chief chemist of one of the companies, and he wants us to take up his patents and apply our knowledge in developing the process. It will, of course, take a great deal of money to build the plant and make the test on a commercial scale, but the development of this process promises, if successful, to assume an importance in metallurgy almost as great as the cyanide process. .
. .
The copper
The copper
not fulfil its nothing of the kind which would now bear comparison with the cyanide process, and two or three such anticipated revolutions did not eventuate, but as a new pathway of investigation had been opened up by cyanidation, this made him eager to undertake fresh researches. References to ex-President Roosevelt occur in the following letter, as that strenuous statesman was shortly expected to return to the United States after his prolonged travels. MONTCLAIR, N.J.,
ijth Juney 1910.
I
process mentioned in these letters did early promise. At any rate there is
hope to be back
for the British Association at Sheffield,
but it is too early as yet to say whether I could find time to prepare a paper to read there. To-morrow Roosevelt
.
220
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

is
(the Kaiser of the Americans)

for his reception.
expected to arrive, and his
made great preparations papers are full of ridicule about him, and one of them is publishing a series of letters headed " How Roosevelt can best serve his country in future." Most of the letters are not complimentary One says, " By
friends in the Republican party have
The Democratic
putting a Muzzle on " African Desert."
another, "
By
losing himself in
an
In a letter written on June 21st the reception accorded to ex-President Roosevelt in New York is
briefly described.
On
the the
Saturday
v^âs
at the office in the
morning, and saw from
window Roosevelt passing along Brdadway. He was at moment standing in a carriage with his hat off, smiling
and bowing to the crowd. He was preceded by about fifty rough-riders on horseback, and there was a band playing and a great deal of enthusiasm, but his reception must have appeared very tame after all the demonstrations of welcome he received and all he went through in Europe and elsewhere. No doubt in a few months he will be forgotten, like other
great
men
in this country.
Towards the end of June Forbes Julian left Montand removed with Mr. Greig to Atlantic Highlands, where he was able (as in the previous year) to enjoy the boating and bathing. Writing from Atlantic Highlands on July 1st, he describes the kindly welcome of his American friends there, and says
clair
:
a grand reception, and they had got the Union Jack to greet me on my arrival. Greig has been busy all the week getting his boat ready ; I gave him a hand whenever I
I
had
to
fly,
had a little time to spare. Last night we launched her after an effort and much waiting for the tide. We hope to get a sail on Monday. I shall spend as much time as I can on the
We
boat at Atlantic Highlands instead of being in New York. are having very hot weather, but the trips on the steamer in and out are delightful.

Anxious to
visit
221
Mr. Leonard and

of
see for himself
more
of the
work
Canadian mining
men on
their
disappointed in being unable to get away for a projected stay in the Dominion during the holiday period for the Fourth of July. He wa?, however, fortunate in enjoying the sea air and charming surroundings at Atlantic Highlands, for a heat-wave rendered life in the city extremely oppressive. Atlantic Highlands,
5//; July^ 1910. Atlantic Highlands by an early steamer on Friday afternoon in the hope of escaping the crowds going away for the Fourth of July, but the boat was packed. It was very hot, which made everyone who could get off rush for the
own ground, he was
I left for
country as soon as possible. Saturday and Sunday were still hotter without a breath of wind, and every boat as it arrived We were told that the at Atlantic Highlands was crammed. piers in New York were crowded with people vainly trying to Greig and I spent Saturday and Sunday escape from the city.
on
his boat.
On Monday
was glorious.
morning
became
All the oppressive heat was gone, started early, delightfully bracing.
was a good stiff made about a thirty-mile detour. It was a lovely sail. The Fourth of July dawned with the usual noise of crackers and guns, and in the evening there was a display of fireworks.
.
. .
wind sprang up, and the day and the air We when. there breeze, and went across to the Hook and
a cool
In the following letter he alludes to his wife's visit to the Royal Society, when an interesting paper was given by Mr. Clement Reid dealing with the Bovey Tracey deposits, which had previously been investigated by Mr. Pengelly and his colleague, Dr. Heer of
Zurich. Sir Archibald tribute after the and the memory On the other
Geikie, the President, paid a warm reading of the paper to the labours
of his old friend
Mr. Pengelly.
Forbes Julian
side of the Atlantic
222
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
followed with much attention the work of many of the London scientific societies, for his interests were not confined to his own inquiries, but his mind ranged over many departments of knowledge, and he showed keen sympathy with their advancement.
Atlantic Highlands,
12th July^
I
1
910.
was very pleased to hear all about the Royal Society. I should so much like to have been with you. ... I am glad to have the abstracts of those physical papers you sent, and will read them in the boat this afternoon. I was also delighted to hear about the Bovey Tracey paper by Mr. Clement Reid and the references to your father's work. . On Friday afternoon I caught an early steamer back from New York so as to enjoy the cool sea breezes. I did not go into the city on Saturday, but at 6 a.m. four of us went for an early walk in the woods. All being interested in botany, we made a good collection and brought back many specimens. On Sunday afternoon there was a stiff breeze, so that we were able to have a delightful sail. In the evening we discussed theosophy, Briggs being very amusing in his racy American Two lady artists have taken his bungalow, and way. Briggs went to see them, and gave us a most graphic account of the interview. One of these ladies seems to be a championess in everything swims several miles out from shore, sails her own boat, boxes, and wears men's boots Her companion is a fragile creature, but is equally active and energetic in her own way. You will be interested to he^r that Mr. Leonard has been appointed one of the Governors of Toronto University, to fill the vacancy caused by the death of Goldwin Smith.
.
. .
.
.
At the beginning
Atlantic,
of August he again crossed the and landed on the i ith by tender at Plymouth
in the small hours of the morning.
Leaving New York at a few hours' notice and taking the first steamer available, he was unable to obtain a cabin to himself, but this really enhanced the pleasure of the voyage, as his companion in the state-
223
room was Captain Harlow, a distinguished officer of the United States Navy and a genial companion with whom he became very friendly.
On the afternoon of his arrival he and his wife were present at a garden-party in the historic grounds of Torre Abbey (formerly one of the great Houses of the Premonstratensian Order of Canons in England) given by Colonel and Mrs. Cary. As the gathering was numerously attended, it enabled him to exchange greetings with a large circle of friends, by whom he
was warmly welcomed. Being much interested in the Naval manoeuvres taking place, it was naturally a disappointment to have been too late to witness the inspection of the combined fleet of battleships held by His Majesty King George a few days earlier in Torbay. This was the first review held by our sailor King, whose interest in naval matters has remained so keen ever since the period of his own blue- water days. To all Devonians, especially to those dwelling near Plymouth or Dartmouth, the nursery of so many distinguished sailors, the Navy is a symbol of the strength and glory of the kingdom. Having only a month to spend in England, the metallurgist soon visited London for a few days and made arrangements concerning the voyage westward with his wife in September. It was expected that they would return to England for Christmas, but the exigencies of his professional
work actually kept them in the States until the following summer. At the end of August they left Torquay to attend
the British Association meeting at Sheffield. The gathering in 1910, although not large, was especially attractive to them as the President, Professor Bonney, was an old and valued friend. There was a strong
224
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
body
of geologists present, including Sir Archibald Geikie and Professor Coleman, of Toronto, the latter being chairman of Section C. At the Physical Science and Chemical Sections there were some papers of outstanding scientific merit, particularly those given by Sir J. J. Thomson on *' Positive Rays," and by Sir William Ramsay on " The Molecular Weight of Radium " ; whilst a joint discussion between Sections A and B on " Gaseous Combustion " was especially noteworthy from the fact that Sir J. J. Thomson, Sir Oliver Lodge, Professor H. B. Dixon, Professor Smithells, and Professor Armstrong took part. It was said that the meeting of 1 910 would be always remembered as that at which the achievement of at last isolating the positive electron was announced by Sir J. J. Thomson. In the midst of this week of scientific activity a drive through the Dukeries on Saturday with a few other members was much appreciated. Some lovely parts of Sherwood Forest were visited, and they were hospitably entertained at Welbeck Abbey by the Duke of Portland and at Clumber by the Duke of Newcastle. On Sunday morning a service was attended, at which Dr. Cosmo Lang, the Archbishop of York, preached to a crowded congregation from the text *' Wisdom in all ages entering holy souls, maketh them friends of God." In the afternoon an impressive address was delivered by Sir Oliver Lodge in one of the public halls. A garden-party given by Lord and Lady Fitzwilliam at Wentworth Woodhouse, the soiree at the Town Hall, and an evening conversazione held by the Duke and Duchess of Norfolk at the Museum and Mappin Art Gallery, with various other receptions, added to the pleasant social side of the gathering and afforded
225
opportunities of meeting friends before the approaching absence in America. An invitation to hold the Association meeting in Australia in 1914 was received at Sheffield and, after some opposition, vâs finally accepted by the members of the General Committee. Forbes Julian, being strongly impressed by the importance of Imperial unity, vâs naturally in favour of the proposition. During this vêek he had the pleasure of becoming acquainted vîth Dr. Orme Masson, the well-knov^n Professor of Chemistry at Melbourne University, one of the delegates. The metallurgist had long cherished the hope of visiting Australia, but, unfortunately, this vîsh remained for ever unfulfilled. Immediately after attending the last meeting of the General Committee he left Sheffield with his wife on their way to London, and, starting by the boat train for Southampton on the loth, he was glad to find that Captain Harlow was again to be a fellow-passenger on the Philadelphia of the American Line. The voyage was rendered enjoyable from the friendship formed with a pleasant American family. Their society and that of Mr. Waterbury and Mr. Faversham, the actor, with his wife Miss Julie Opp, the gifted actress, greatly enlivened the week at sea on this fourth trip across the Atlantic taken by the traveller within a period of nine months, during a run of rapidly succeeding voyages. Landing early on Saturday, September 17th, he and his wife spent a few days at one of the New York hotels and then proceeded to New Jersey, settling at Montclair, in the well-known hotel situated on the Watchung Mountain. The change from New York was pleasant and beneficial, as the elevation of Montclair Hotel on the breezy hill-side ensured invigorating air and gave a coign of vantage from which extensive views
?
226
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
could be obtained in all directions. To the west lies a picturesque wooded hill country full of pastoral charm, to the north and east the populous valleys of the Passaic and Hackensack, whilst beyond flows the fine Hudson River, giving variety to the landscape and greatly enhancing its beauty. On the south is Orange, and not far away are visible Newark, Jersey City, New York harbour, and Staten Island, with the sea for a background. Some time was passed amongst these pleasant surroundings, Forbes Julian going to and fro daily to the city to continue his technical labours. Later in the autumn he had sufficient leisure to take his wife on a visit to their friends Mr. and Mrs. Lawrence Dawes, at Pittsfield, Massachusetts, where their host (a son of the statesman Senator Dawes) and his wife received them with cordial
hospitality.
Both
in
the North and South
(for Virginia
was
visited soon afterwards) their
welcome was most
kindly,
and as their hostess belonged to one of the oldestablished families of New England and had many
relatives settled in the
neighbourhood, they had the opportunity of seeing much of American home life and enjoying the cultured social atmosphere of a
delightful circle. The neighbourhood of Pittsfield and Lenox has long been famous as the resort of not a few men who have stood in the foremost rank of American literature the homestead of Oliver Wendell Holmes, and Longfellow House (the scene of his poem " The Old Clock on the Stairs "), and other famous dwelling-places rich in literary association were amongst those pointed out to the travellers. They much enjoyed the drives and motoring expeditions taken through the well- wooded country, bright
;

227
with the varied tints of autumn, or by the river-side, with fine views of the surrounding Berkshire hills and the Poutoosic Lake. At every turn water and woodland, hill and dale clad with grass and flowers, delight the eye and lend beauty to the scene. Leaving for Albany after a short stay in Massachusetts, they journeyed northwards to Buffalo, crossing the border into Canada, where some time was spent as the guests of Mr. and Mrs. Leonard at St. Catherine's, this being Forbes Julian's fourth visit to the Dominion. It was impossible to be staying in Ontario without devoting time to revisiting old ground and again studying the Falls of Niagara, which he had twice previously seen, first in the height of summer and then in the snows of winter, so that this third sojourn there, with all the glory of the autumn foliage, was highly appreciated and afforded a striking contrast to both the former expeditions, each succeeding
visit
only serving to make the sight more
wonderful and impressive of the ever-falling mass of water with its thunderous sound. The beauty of the fading leaves makes the autumn one of the most delightful seasons of the year in Canada. Then the forests are rich in the most varied colouring the elm of a deep yellow, the maple of a bright crimson, other trees of lovely shades of orange and scarlet. These tints contrast finely with the masses of dark green foliage that adorn the landscape, and give an
charm to the woodland scenery. Always happy amongst the hospitable Canadian people and greatly enjoying the discussions with his host, a fellow-worker in the same field, a man full of information and well qualified to give an opinion on matters connected with mining and metallurgy, it was naturally a disappointment to have to break off this
indescribable
228
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

;
but the time was limited, and too soon he and his wife had to leave their kind entertainers and move southwards. They had been singularly fortunate in a spell of bright autumnal weather, but, just as they were preparing for departure, storms of rain, sleet, and snow heralded the approach
pleasant intercourse
all
of winter.
CHAPTER
XVIII
VIRGINIA
S soon as Forbes Julian and his wife had concluded their Canadian visit they reJL turned to New York. After spending some time there in professional work he found that a short visit in the South could be arranged, being anxious to revisit Virginia, through which they had only journeyed very hurriedly in 1907, the year of the Tercentenary. Like other travellers of British race, they found the
Zjk
Old Dominion specially attractive, and at Richmond, Alexandria, and many other places the early colonial houses and churches reminded them forcibly of home. Virginia was the land where the earliest English
colonists tried to gain a foothold in the
New World, and the first permanent English settlement in America was made at Jamestown, Virginia, in 1607, by Sir Thomas Gates and his Company, who obtained a charter from King James I to plant two colonies in
couple of years later the London Comof Gates, which had merely held the settlement for this brief period and given to the world the exciting and well-known adventures of Captain John Smith. It is stated that the first settlement on part of the site of Richmond dates from 1609, and that Fort Charles was built as a defence against the Indians nearly forty years later. Although still a small village, it was made the capital of the State of Virginia in 1779, and for about four years,
Virginia.
pany succeeded that
229
230
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

May
from
seat of the
1861 until April 1865, Richmond was the Confederate Government. As little or nothing of Forbes Julian's correspondence during the tour has been preserved, a short account compiled from journals kept at the time by the present
v^riter
may
serve to give
came under the

received.
travellers'
some idea of the scenes that view and of the impressions
^his description of the Southern journey^ like the account of the Northern tour in Chapter XI, is left in the first person^ and almost as originally given in the
diary.
Compiled from Mrs. Forbes Julian's Journals

at Richmond my husband and I stayed at the comfortable Jefferson Hotel and received almost as much courtesy and kindness from the strangers met with as we could have experienced from old friends. These Southern families were invariably courteous,
" Whilst
hospitable,
and
refined.
"
We found many of the drives in the neighbourhood
most enjoyable, the views of the surrounding district and of the River James being extremely fine. The streets are wide, well paved, and well lighted, and no unsightly elevated railways or huge skyscrapers disfigure the pleasant capital of the South.
is
The
climate
mild and genial, but varies greatly in different parts
It seemed like summer to us, after so recently leaving sleet and snow in Canada. " Our attention during our stay at the former capital of the fallen Confederacy was particularly directed to the memorials of the Civil War, and indeed almost
of the State.
everything there was calculated to concentrate our thoughts on the awful struggle of half a century ago, when some of the fiercest and most hardly contested battles took place near the city. Less than 120 miles
VIRGINIA
231
separated the rival capitals of the Union and the Confederacy, for Richmond is only 116 miles southwest from Washington. It is about the same distance above the entrance of Chesapeake Bay, and is situated on the northern side of the James River at the point w^here the lov^rer falls mark the limit of the tide ascending from the Chesapeake. It is built on a group of several hills, and on the other side of the James, connected by bridges, stands the suburb called Manchester. We drove over there one afternoon and obtained an extensive viev^ of the city, looking across the shining reaches of the river. Main Street is a fine thoroughfare of the old Southern style, the large portion that was destroyed in the conflagration of 1865 (^t t^^ close of the Civil War) having been rebuilt in keeping with the houses that escaped the fire. The parks and public gardens are planted with fine trees and flowering shrubs, and in some of its general features Richmond reminds one slightly of
Edinburgh.
Our first visit was to the Capitol or State House, conspicuous building situated on the summit of Shockoe Hill. It was designed by Thomas Jefferson after the model of the Maison Carree of Nimes. Under the dome of the central hall we saw Houdon's marble statue of Washington, and near the western gates of the Capitol Square we also inspected Crawford's bronze equestrian statue of the same leader. Many historic scenes have taken place in the Capitol. Aaron Burr was tried for treason there in 1807, and it was used from 1861 to 1865 as the meeting-place of the Confederate Congress. The central building dates from 1789, but the two wings were recently added. Quite near is the Executive Mansion, a simple oldfashioned house, where Governor Letcher of Confederate fame entertained King Edward when (as
a
"
232
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
Prince of Wales) he visited Richmond in i860, shortly before the war. The State Library adjoins the Capitol ; here we found a valuable collection of historical portraits and papers, this being the most important library in the South. We saw the first Virginian newspaper which published the celebrated Declaration of Independence in full, dated July 26th, 1 776. We were also shown many historical papers and writings, including autograph letters of Washington and Lafayette, the Bail Bond of the Confederate President Jefferson Davis (signed by Horace Greeley and Cornelius Vanderbilt), and some * war letters ' from General Robert E. Lee, with the last letter written to him by Stonewall Jackson just before the latter was fatally wounded at the battle of Chancellors ville. " The portraits included paintings of General Lee, General Pickett, of Gettysburg fame, Stonewall Jackson, General J. E. B. Stuart, and other well-known Confederates, in addition to those of George Washington, Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson, Henry Clay, and other celebrated Virginians of an earlier generation, besides a curious picture of the Princess Pocahontas. " We also saw the Great Seal of the Confederacy, and the Southern flag which was used on the State Capitol and on all the public buildings during the war. It was unfurled for our inspection by an old Confederate soldier with loving respect and pride. " We paid a pleasant visit to the * White House of the Confederacy,' where we were kindly received by Miss Isabel Maury, a member of the ' Society of the United Daughters of the Confederacy.' This mansion was the official home of Jefferson Davis whilst he was President, and is now used as a Confederate museum. Miss Maury pointed out all the valuable
war
relics
and
portraits,
and told us much of
interest

VIRGINIA
both of
233
concerning General Lee and President Jefferson Davis,
whom she had known when '^We saw other war memorials
their ^beautiful
a girl.
at
the Virginian
Historical Society's unpretending building in Franklin

after
This was the home of General Lee's familyVirginian estate at Arlington had been seized by the army of the North, and here he resided when on his brief visits from the seat
Street.
of war.
The
city
has
several
fine
statues
of
the
Southern generals, those of Lee by the French sculptor Mercier, of Stonewall Jackson by the sculptor Foley (given by English admirers), and of J. E. B. Stuart, the
dashing cavalry leader, by Moynihan, being specially noteworthy. Stuart was mortally wounded at one of the later battles fought at Yellow Tavern in 1864. He had just defeated the Northern army under General Sheridan, which was encamped only a few miles north-east of Richmond, and the city was saved but at great cost. " It will be remembered that at the commencement of hostilities the Federal army under General MacDowell had been defeated by the Confederates at Bull Run, and that MacDowell was succeeded by McClellan. ''We drove out one day to inspect the battlefield of Seven Pines or Fair Oaks, where Lee defeated the old fortifications and breastworks McClellan may still be discerned. In the adjoining military cemetery lie buried numberless soldiers who took part Other great battlefields which we in the engagement. Mechanicsville, Cold Harbor, Chancellorssaw were A fine granite monument at ville, and Gaines Mill. the Hollywood Cemetery marks the resting-place of many thousands of Confederate warriors ; and there are also memorials of President Jefferson Davis, General Stuart, General Pickett, and other distin;
234
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

We remarked that the grounds were and were informed by a Richmond
guished persons.
beautifully kept,
lady who acted as our guide that the graves of the beloved dead were under the special charge of the * United Daughters of the Confederacy.' " It is remarkable that both the rival Presidents, Abraham Lincoln and Jefferson Davis, the arbiters of their country's destiny, were Southerners and Kentucky The striking career of Lincoln appealed to men. the imagination of numberless people through his marvellous rise from being first a labourer, then a clerk, afterwards a deputy surveyor and lawyer, and finally President, "It is well known that before the war a feeling of aversion to slavery was spreading amongst many thoughtful people in the South. In Maryland and Kentucky the number of slaves had decreased ; whilst in Virginia the institution, though bequeathed to
them, was thoroughly disliked by large numbers of the best public men, and some of them imitated the example of Washington, whose dying bequest gave freedom to his slaves. His contemporary, Patrick Henry, however, who uttered in the Virginian Convention of 1775 the famous words, Give me liberty or give me death,' was not only a holder but also a buyer of slaves. " We visited St. John's Church at Richmond where he made this oft-quoted speech. The spot where he stood is marked with a white tablet, the pews, soundingboard, and baptismal font being the same that were used before the Revolutionary War. There are several fine places of worship in the city, including the Roman Catholic cathedral, and we were specially interested in St. Paul's Episcopal Church. Here Mr. Davenport, one of the vestrymen, kindly showed us over the building, which we had already seen under
*
VIRGINIA
235
It conthe guidance of the verger, a coloured man. fine stained-glass memorial windows to General tains
and Mr. DavenJefferson Davis graphic account of the service which port rendered a he attended as a boy on that memorable Sunday morning of April 2nd, 1865, when a telegram from General Lee was delivered to the President at church stating "^ that Richmond must be evacuated. "Virginia has produced a remarkable number of truly great men, foremost amongst whom stand George Washington and Robert E. Lee. We visited Mount Vernon and Arlington, the homes of these famous
Lee and President
leaders,
and found much worth seeing in these beautiful which (though situated in Virginia) are both much nearer to Washington than to the Southern capital. " Mount Vernon, the home of George Washington, is finely placed on the Virginian side of the Potomac River. The picturesque mansion was built in 1743 ; it has two stories, and attics with dormer windows. In front of the house are pleasant lawns, and also a In the rear are beautiful gardens and fine deer park. orchards, with all the usual outbuildings of a Virginian and
historic places,
farm. " Coming to live there soon after his marriage with Martha Custis in 1759, Washington carried on farming He returned to Mount until called to the field. Vernon after Yorktown, and again after his Presidency. His residence there for so many years, and the presence of his tomb in the grounds, have made Mount Vernon one of the most memorable places in the South. " At Alexandria in Virginia we saw the quaint old church, containing the unaltered pews of General Washington and of General Lee, both these distinguished soldiers having been vestrymen of Christ Church, Alexandria.
236
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
''Whilst in this neighbourhood we went on to Arlington, formerly the home of General Lee, into whose possession it passed after his marriage with Mary Custis. The family mansion stands on the brow of a lofty hill, whose slope stretches away to the Potomac River. The view we obtained here with the fine expanse of water highly delighted us, and all this part of Virginia is very picturesque and striking, the Potomac River being justly famed for the scenery on its banks, Chesapeake Bay also being considered one of the most charming stretches of water in the world. The Arlington grounds are of great beauty, with fragrant flower-beds and grassy lawns, the hill-sides being covered with fine oak-trees. We spent much time rambling about in this spot so full of associations with the past. " When the Federal troops took possession of Arlington they turned the house into headquarters and the grounds into a camp. As the war went on, a hospital was established there, and finally the grounds were converted into a cemetery for soldiers. " It is known that General Lee was himself in favour of the gradual abolition of slavery. His letters, dated long before the war, show that he recognized the injustice to the negro and the evil effects upon the master. "We were informed that several years before Lincoln's Emancipation Act Lee had freed the few slaves he had himself inherited, and that he made arrangements later for the gradual emancipation of those on the estate inherited by his wife, Mary Custis, a descendant
of
Martha Washington.
remains of both the celebrated Confederate commanders, Lee and Stonewall Jackson, repose at Lexington in Virginia. "We were fortunate in numbering among our
"The
VIRGINIA
Southern friends
served
forced
as a
237
soldier
distinguished
at
who had
young
officer
under these great
been with General Lee

to
and Appomattox when he was

leaders,
surrender to General Grant's superior the Confederate supplies were exhausted and the gallant band of soldiers reduced to a few thousands. Our friend told us that even in this desperate position every Confederate able to bear arms was still resolute and ready to do battle. His
numbers,
as
recollections of their campaigns and of his comrades were remarkably vivid and striking, even after the lapse of so many years. He mentioned many stirring incidents of heroism of which he had been an eyewitness, and which remained like a picture in his mind, together with descriptions of his great commander, whose modesty and nobility of character gained the respect and affectionate admiration of every man who served under him.
"When listening to our friend's dramatic descriptions, the stern realities of the war, with all its strategy and fine soldiership, seemed to pass in review before us with the engagements and forced marches as though we had been present and could have witnessed the daring and courage of the Southern soldiers, who fought with invincible spirit against overwhelming odds, even after the impulse of victory had died away. "We found it intensely interesting to study the history of Lee's campaigns whilst visiting the battlefields of Virginia ; and after concluding our stay there we returned through Washington and Philadelphia to New Jersey, settling down for the winter at Montclair, inasmuch as the easy distance from New York rendered it possible for my husband to go into the city daily to carry on his technical work."
CHAPTER XIX
BERMUDA
to pressure of that it would be impossible for Forbes Julian to return in time to spend the festival in England. However, the hospitality and kindness of American friends rendered this second Yuletide season spent in the States a very pleasant period.
It
December, Christmas approached, DURING found owing was work

as
Amongst the group
of
men famous
at this
time in
the Governor, Dr. Woodrow Wilson, since elected President of the United States, and Mr. T. A. Edison, the inventor. The travellers heard much respecting the work of the former at Princeton and elsewhere from friends who had long enjoyed the privilege of his acquaintance, and who gave the introductions the distinguished metallurgist to Governor and to the eminent inventor. Dr. Wilson's writings touch an unaccustomed note in American politics. He urges his countrymen to remember that an account must be rendered of the methods of acquiring wealth, as well as of the means of disposing of it ; to open their eyes to see that God is in the world, as well as Mammon ; and to give to the weary workers some of the sunlight and free air of which they have been deprived but which were intended to be equally the birthright of all. His appeal is to the kindly and sympathetic side of human nature, and he has been aptly termed " a reformer wishing to restore, not to destroy."
238
New Jersey were
BERMUDA
239
The inventions of Mr. Edison were naturally of great interest to Forbes Julian, so that in the intervals of his own work in New York he found much to
were also many and motoring as colder weather set in, coasting, snow-shoeing, and sleighing were popular pastimes, together with skating on the adjacent Verona Lake. Unfortunately during the winter season of 1910-11 a severe epidemic of influenza attacked many persons Forbes Julian was very ill for a short in New Jersey. time, and his wife was completely prostrated for several weeks. Much cordial kindness was experienced from American friends sending up books and flowers, with notes of inquiry, or coming themselves to the sickattract
There him in Jersey. recreations, especially in driving and
New
rooms, heedless of the risk of infection. The skilful attendance of Dr. Synnott, one of Montclair's wellknown physicians (who, coming first as a stranger, soon became a friend), added to these other alleviations in helping to pass many tedious hours of convalescence ; but no hotel, however comfortable, can ever be an
ideal place for illness.
As winter gave way to spring, and his wife still continued delicate, Forbes Julian consulted Dr. Synnott as to the advisability of her taking a voyage, or obtaining change of air, a course which the physician strongly recommended. Too closely occupied to leave New York for any considerable period, he was finally able to arrange to take her to Bermuda, which was reached after two days and nights at sea, even that rapid voyage proving very beneficial. The short visit to this beautiful British colony It was always a afforded them both much pleasure. gratification to be under their own flag, and the mild climate and charming scenery were of great assistance in promoting recovery.
240
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

trip to the
Bermuda group
of islands embraces
Passengers are seen waiting for the tender to take them to the steamers, others are starting in glass-bottomed boats for the marine gardens, yachts skim swiftly over the waters, and British soldiers and sailors are to be met with at every turn. On landing an animated scene is presented by Front Street, which is the main thoroughfare of Hamilton and a lively business centre. On one side it is bordered by wharves, on which are capacious sheds for protecting freight. The Bank of Bermuda, the headquarters of the Royal Yacht Club, and the offices of the steamship companies are adjacent. In Parliament Street and Church Street there are other important buildings. The weather during the winter being delightful attracts quite an armyof American health- and pleasureseekers from New York and other parts. The climate is essentially marine, so that during the summer months the heat is never oppressive, the only drawback being the violent hurricanes that occur occasionally in the early autumn.
much
pleasant variety.
The different islets forming the Bermuda group have been variously estimated as numbering from a hundred and fifty to four or five hundred, many being but bleak and barren rocks, and only a small number partially covered with verdure. Scarcely twenty are inhabited, whilst but a few namely. Great Bermuda, St. George's, St. David's, Cooper, Somerset, and Ireland are of any considerable size. All these have been connected by causeways and bridges. Although the strip of land thus formed is barely twenty-five miles in length and never more than two or three miles in width, frequently indeed much less,
yet in spite of this limited area Bermuda (hardly containing twenty square miles, equal to but an eighth part of the Isle of Wight) is so advantageously laid
BERMUDA
out
as to possess a
241
hundred miles of excellent roadway.
was St. George's, but in 1815 the seat of Government was moved to Hamilton, a city eminently picturesque in respect of its charming situation and pleasant villas and mansions, with their broad verandahs and attractive gardens. Here the The Cîstoms examinatravellers landed by tender.
Formerly
the capital
tion
afforded a
pleasant
contrast
to
the elaborate
ordeal
undergone when arriving from England in
New York, the Custom House officer being soon convinced that their belongings were innocent of articles of a contraband or dutiable character. One of the most enjoyable expeditions was to view the caves which render the island famous. The
Crystal Cave with its rich variety of stalactites and stalagmites in different stages of formation is specially It has only recently been discovered, and attractive. was named from the snow-like whiteness of the interior. Joyce's Dock Cave, near the causeway, is also very striking both for its great extent and the beauty of its subterranean halls. Like the Crystal Cave, it can It has long been known, and is a boast of a lake. favourite resort both with the islanders and visitors. The Admiral's Cave is also well worth seeing. A novel and fascinating feature of Bermuda travel is the excursion to the Reefs, made by boats with heavy glass plates at the bottom, through which the
beautiful " marine gardens " may be easily discerned through the clear and limpid water. Forbes Julian was specially interested in viewing a diver going down to cut coral, and in seeing the angel-fish and other beautiful forms of marine life, in addition to the Always attracted by diving striking coral formations. operations, he had himself gone down some years before in a diving-bell, and had paid a considerable
amount
of attention to the subject.
The
excursion Q
242
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
to view the marine gardens can only be made in calm weather with a smooth sea, so that visitors are often obliged to leave the island without having
clear
accomplished
it.
A
Park,
pleasant drive was taken through the Victoria
noted for its fine trees and bright oleander flourishes in the islands, and likewise the Bermuda cedar, whilst groves of palmetto and hedges of tamarisk are to be seen, as well as the juniper, rubber, and mulberry tree. The poinsettia,
is
which
flowers.
The
bougainvillea,
bamboo, and
aloe are
all
cultivated in
the gardens, delicate ferns such as the maidenhair are extremely plentiful, and the hardier osmunda and bracken abundant. Several English plants are to be met with, as well as those of a subtropical character, their great luxuriance of growth being attributable to the warmth and moisture of the climate. The aquarium has more than a local celebrity, as professors and students of marine zoology visit it in considerable numbers during the summer to carry on studies at the laboratory. The importance of Bermuda as a naval station has long been recognized, and its floating dock is too well
known to need more than a passing reference. It well repays a visit, and was one of the chief points of attraction to the travellers. The colony is administered by a Governor, Council,
and House of Assembly. The Governor is appointed by the Crown, being usually a general officer of the
Royal Artillery or Royal Engineers. A brother of Sir W. Kitchener, held the post at this period (April 191 1), and his death not long afterwards was a great loss to the community. It was a
Lord Kitchener,
pleasure to meet him on this visit. An enjoyable expedition was made to the quaint little " Devonshire Church " (with its venerable cedar-
BERMUDA
243
tree, used generations ago as a belfry), the name having proved attractive from its homelike associations. After viewing the church and the Spanish Rock with its curious inscription, supposed to be a record of some early visitor, the drive was continued to the Flatts at Harrington Sound. This is a charming piece of inland sea, and at the beautiful cove may be noted the
varied colours of the water. A lovely panorama of the inland salt lakes, the islets, and stretches of sandy beach here greets the eye, the fine views of the silver sea obtained from all parts of the island, together with the beauty of the foliage, making up a never-ending series of exquisite scenic effects. The vegetation is of rapid growth, and the fields and hillocks or mounds are clad with a mantle of perpetual green. As geologists count time, Bermuda is of recent formation, and is an atoll with a central lagoon produced through the marvellous labours of the coral animal. It is worthy of note that, with the exception of Bermuda, there is not a single coral reef in the central expanse of the Atlantic. It will be readily understood that the coast is of a dangerous character, the islands being encircled by a chain of fringing reefs and sunken rocks, with only a small number of navigable openings, all highly intricate and unsafe unless traversed with the aid of a pilot or under other experienced guidance. The two lighthouses, situated one at each end of the cluster of islands, enable passing ships to descry the Bermuda lights when more than thirty miles away. The islands of the Great Sound, on which 6000 Boer prisoners were at one time lodged, aroused considerable interest ; and here, as at St. Helena, the incidents related by South African commandants met with in the Transvaal and Orange Free State came back to the mind. Stories heard from friends in the Southern States of
244
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
America were also recalled respecting the exciting events of which St. George's was the scene, being the rendezvous for some of the fast steamers running the
blockade in the days of the Confederacy. Unfortunately, Forbes Julian was obliged to return to New York during Easter week, and on Easter Eve his wife sailed for England, being glad to find some English friends on the vessel. The metallurgist returned to New York by the first steamer available a few days after her departure, spending Easter Sunday
at
Hamilton.
Several noteworthy buildings have recently been erected in the capital, the most important being the Anglican cathedral, the finest and largest church on the island. Visiting it with his wife on the afternoon of Easter Eve, just before she left, he afterwards accompanied her on the tender to the steamer Avon, of the Royal Mail Line, and they parted on April 15 th, the date which in the following year was to usher in a sadder separation. On Easter Sunday he attended the
parade service of the Garrison Church at Prospect in the morning, and in the evening was present at the cathedral for evensong. Writing to his wife after her departure from Bermuda, he described both these
services.
Hamilton, Bermuda,
April, 191 1. Easter Sunday I went to the barracks to see the Church parade. There was about ten minutes* drill before service, crowd of sightseers was and the band played excellently. The church is a small iron structure, which was present. nearly filled by the soldiers. The civilians crowded in at I was at the side-door, where only the officers and the back. I was shown into a seat their families are allowed to enter. in the pew immediately behind the Governor, Sir W. Kitchener. The music was supplied by several stringed instruments
iM
On
and two wind instruments.
There were about
dozen choir-
BERMUDA
boys.
.
. .
245
stand,
After service the people collected round the bandfor an hour were treated to selections of music. In the afternoon I took a long walk, and found myself close to the ruins of the old floating dock we had seen from the boat. I passed several pretty villas on the way and some houses with fair-sized grounds. At the entrance to one of these I saw the notice
and
"Tramps must
not, trespass."
not,
and surely
ladies
and gentlemen
will
In the evening I went to an impressive service at the catheThe Lessons were read by an elderly clergyman and The streets were very the preacher was a younger man.
dral.
. .
.
quiet.
... I had a good view of the S.S. Avon on Saturday until she passed behind the land. ... I have made the acquaintance of some of the people at the hotel, and had a walk round the town. Easter Sunday was bright and sunny here.
In the next letter home he describes an expedition to the Coral Reefs in one of the glass-bottomed boats.
Hamilton, Bermuda,
22nd April, 191 1. greatly enjoyed the view from my room looking out over the bay with its pretty islands. I did not take any more drives after you left, but went for long walks and took trips on the water. On Wednesday I went to see the coral reefs It was a lovely sight, in one of the glass-bottomed boats. diver went down, just like a miniature forest under water.
I
transparent bottom of the boat cutting specimens of the coral, which were given to the visitors. Another day I walked out to the lighthouse along a beautiful road. From the top of the lighthouse I I also went through the could see all over the islands. Governor's grounds and along the south shore, which is most picturesque. The air was cool, and the roads being well kept, walking was much pleasanter than driving. The day before The owner of I left I took the boat to the Aquarium. the boat took us for a long sail round a score of the islands ; We sailed all round the islands on it was perfect fairyland. which the Boers were held in captivity, and he gave us an
see
. . .
and we could
him through the
interesting account of the
manner
in
which they were treated.
246
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
On the whole I had a very pleasant week, but wanted you all the time. The steamers to New York were so crowded that I found a difficulty in getting a berth, but finally managed to get a cabin to myself on the S.S. Oceana, which sails to-day.
On returning to New York he found that the hearing of the law case was definitely fixed to take place in the following month at Trenton, in New
Jersey.
Early in May, on his fiftieth birthday, he wrote to

his wife describing a visit to Atlantic City.
New
.
. .
York,
and
I
<)th May, 191 1. ... It is lovely weather, fifty to-day Just imagine I should like to go into the country were it not that I
am waiting at
the office to hear about to-morrow's proceedings.
went to Atlantic City on Saturday to meet Binney and Kenyon. We stayed at the Shelburne Hotel, and soon got through the finishing touches for the case.
Atlantic
City
is
America's
Brighton.
Its
chief
is
feature
the Broadwalk, a promenade several miles long, elevated over the shore and built entirely of wood. Here the ladies walk to display their million-dollar frocks, and when tired of walking, which appears to be a chronic state, they are pushed along in a sort of Bath-chair. The procession of these chairs, miles in length, is quite a curious sight. The country round is sandy, flat, and uninteresting, and I fail to see what there is besides fresh air to attract such crowds of people. Two days gave me all that I wanted of the place. I got back to New York yesterday,
(besides ridding people of their superfluous cash)
and was accompanied by Kenyon,

interesting companion.
whom
to
We
are
all
I found a most meet to-morrow at
8.30 A.M. to go to Trenton, so I am not returning to Montclair yet, but staying on a few nights here. I found quite a number of familiar faces at the hotel in New York.
. . .
go and see Dr. Synnott soon and tell him managed the voyage home from Bermuda.
I will
how well you
I hear that the St. George's Club had their Annual Dinner recently in New York, and that our Ambassador, Mr. Bryce,
made the
finest
speech of the evening.
BERMUDA
On May 12th he wrote to his wife from describing the law proceedings at Trenton.
247
New York
As I mentioned in my last letter, the case was set for hearing on Wednesday, the loth, but, owing to an urgent matter, the Court agreed to postpone the case until the next day. Mr. Kenyon and I met at the Pennsylvania Station and went together to Trenton. The proceedings were interesting and The case exciting, and it was a strenuous day for both sides. terminated about five o'clock. There is not much likelihood The lawsuit is now at an of a decision for some months. end as far as I am concerned, with the exception of one or two conferences next week. I am therefore trying to arrange to return home. ...
. . .
Fortunately, the hearing of the case being now concluded (although the decision of the judge could not be known for some months), the metallurgist was
free
to
commence
home
preparations for departure.
He
1
:
wrote to his wife from Montclair on

I
May
calling
19th, 191
expect to be
nearly as soon as this reaches you.
am
finishing things off at the office

I
and
on numerous
friends to say adieu.
think
.
everyone at
the Montclair
Hotel has asked after you.
Immediately on being released from technical work with legal matters he booked his passage on the R.M.S. Mauretania, of the Cunard Line, and leaving New York on Wednesday, May 24th, landed at Fishguard on the evening of the 29th, arriving home on the morning of the 30th. The kindness and courtesy shown to him in New York and New Jersey had made his leave-taking more than a mere matter of form. He received good wishes for his voyage with the expression of their hope that he might speedily revisit the States from many of the American acquaintances whom he had now added to his long list of
in connection friends.
CHAPTER XX
RETURN TO ENGLAND
to being in England and to prosecuting Although his stay in fresh research work. the States had been rendered pleasant by the friendships formed with men of science, and particularly
HE
was
now
looking forward with keen interest
by the close intercourse with Dr. Chandler, one of the most eminent American professors, yet he frequently stated he would not have undertaken the technical work for the law case could he have foreseen it would be so protracted, and that it would have involved such lengthened absences from England.
Neither legal nor business matters really interested
him
in
any great degree, metallurgy, chemistry, and
physical science claiming his real attention.

particular
scientific
On
that
path
side
is
of
metallurgical
work where
the
wholly subordinated to business methods for the rapid production of wealth he was an unfamiliar and unwilling traveller, this sphere, so commonly met with in the States, representing something not directly in his line of interest. Delighted to be once more at Torquay, the first few days of June passed rapidly away. Regretting that his professional work left so little time for country life, these quiet interludes were always much valued. In America the home is frequently a mere hotel, from which the busy worker goes and to which he returns but as to a dormitory thus the resumption of the home-life that British people appreciate so highly was
;
248
RETURN TO ENGLAND
249
Other changes occurred, but ever welcome to him. there was no change in the affection with which he
regarded his home. " I have finished my work in the States, and am glad to settle in England again. General," he said a few days after his arrival on meeting his friend General D'Aguilar Jackson. " Are you not going back again to America, then ? " asked the latter. " No," was the reply. " I have completed the woik on which I had to go over so frequently, and shall not cross the Atlantic again. I have looked my last on New York." This conversation, which the present writer heard, was recalled to her recollection some time later in a letter from the above-named Anglo-Indian officer. Almost immediately after returning, the traveller was able to accompany his wife to a gathering for the
presentation'of a testimonial to their friend Prebendary
Airy,
vicariate of St. John's
on the completion of his twenty-five years Church, Torquay. Whitsuntide was spent quietly at home, and he found on going to London on June loth that all was business and festivity in the metropolis owing to the excitement of the
Coronation season.
A reception held at the Royal Automobile Club, at which the Colonial Premiers were received by the Duke and Duchess of Teck, was an early engagement. Forbes Julian was much pleased with the new premises in Pall Mall. His wife had arranged to join him in town a few days later, and in one of his letters to her he describes the building and mentions the preparations for the Coronation, also alluding to the Metal-
which he was now a member, and where he afterwards was accustomed to meet many leading spirits in the mining world.
lurgical Club, of
250
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Royal Automobile Club,
went to
see the
ijth June, 191 1. Metallurgical Club, but it is not ready It looks as if it might be a nice place at which to meet yet. mining men. The stands for viewing the Coronation procession are nearly finished, with the exception of the drapery. The poles for the decorations are also up. I have just arrived at this club, and intend coming here for the reception to be I have been held to meet the Premiers to-morrow night. looking round the building. The room in which I am writing There is a big wooden structure to you is most luxurious. on the front of the building which contains our seats, and we ought to see splendidly. The streets to-day are excessively crowded, and it is hard to make headway at a moderate speed.
I
new
Shortly afterwards his wife joined
him
in
London,
and they had an excellent view
of the Coronation
procession, spending almost all the day at the Royal Automobile Club, which afforded him an opportunity
of
Some
showing her over the new premises. of their friends who were
amongst
the
privileged spectators in the Abbey afterwards described to them the deeply impressive service during the
Coronation of the King and Queen.
Royal
visitors
and representatives of foreign Courts, distinguished statesmen, eminent ecclesiastics, great captains on land and sea, men of counsel, men of action all were
present at this remarkable assemblage, recalling to so many minds the Coronation of King Edward nine For two days, during the Coronation years before. Procession and the Royal Progress through London, the City was the centre of a splendid pageant, the windows being decked with flowers and the streets
They were filled with spectators, flags. crowds of loyal subjects and foreign visitors thronging every coign of vantage, and waiting patiently for hours to greet the King and Queen in all the freshness and glory of the midsummer days.
decorated with
enthusiastic
RETURN TO ENGLAND
The
visit
251
present writer's thoughts went back to the from His Majesty several years before with which her father had been honoured. She recalled the great interest then taken by the Prince and his brother, the late Duke of Clarence, in the geological collections and
the pleasure they expressed at realizing the evidences of prehistoric life as pointed out by Mr. Pengelly. The Coronation festivities have been more adequately described by other writers, and are within the recolNot only did London manifest an lection of all. immense overflow of welcome, but the entire country was filled with rejoicing, great centres of population as well as tiny villages and hamlets joining in loyalty to the new Sovereign.
As well
as
participating in these scenes of universal
enthusiasm and patriotic interest, various meetings were attended, invitations being also received for many scientific gatherings, including the soiree of the Royal Geographical Society and the conversazione of the Civil Engineers. The metallurgist was also present at the Royal Automobile Club when Prince Henry of Prussia was the guest of honour, the royal visitor receiving a hearty welcome in connection with the motor races. Before going to the Club the day had been spent at Brooklands, where their friend Mrs. Thackeray kindly motored Forbes Julian and his wife over to enable them to see something of the great automobile race. The flying machines were inspected and conversations held with more than one of the The whole season was filled aviators and airmen. One of the evening pleasant engagements. with
gatherings,
at
which many
scientific
friends
were
assembled, was a party arranged to celebrate the silver wedding of Professor and Mrs. Meldola. Leaving the hospitalities of the capital at the end of July, they returned to the West of England in order
252
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
to attend the Devonshire Association meeting which was to be held at Dartmouth. This historic town, with its fine port and unrivalled situation at the entrance to one of the most beautiful of our English rivers, is famous for its associations with the British Navy. Here were trained many of our greatest seamen. Our sailor King also received at Dartmouth his earliest insight into the work of that profession for which His Majesty has always shown such enthusiasm. At the Royal Naval College the members were
welcomed by Captain Evan-Thomas, and conducted over the grounds and buildings by the officers. Prince
Albert, the second son of the King, was at that time at the College, and the Prince of Wales had only recently completed his course of instruction there.
The
Prince has since become a member of the Associahaving always evinced much interest in Devonian matters. Mr. Burnard was president of the Association this year, and in his opening Address made many allusions to Kent's Hole, the famous cavern explored by Mr. Pengelly. During the meeting an important evening lecture was delivered by Mr. Hansford Worth, entitled " The Stanneries, the Story of the Western Tin Miner." Returning afterwards to Torquay, Forbes Julian attended a meeting of the Natural History Society, at which his wife had been asked to give a paper, and spent part of August at home. Frequent visits to London on professional matters connected with the firm were also made, but his own literary labours suffered considerable interruption. He wrote from town on August 15th
tion,
:
the publishers (Charles Griffin and Co.) on my to the City and had a conversation about bringing out the third edition of " Cyaniding Gold and Silver Ores," as they sold out the whole of the second edition some time ago, and, in order to meet the demand, reissued the same edition.
I called at
way
RETURN TO ENGLAND
253
At this period he was applying himself so strenuously to the affairs of the Butters Company that his own work, with the numerous improvements and additions for the volume suggested by his recent researches and fresh observations, had unfortunately to be delayed. Leaving at the end of the month for Portsmouth, where the British Association in its cycle of change was meeting jn 191 1, a small but successful gathering was held at the great naval station. The presidency of Sir William Ramsay ensured an able Inaugural Address, and at the Chemical Section Professor J. Walker was chairman, whilst Professor Biles presided over that of Engineering. In the following spring Professor Biles
was one of the
assessors
who
assisted
Lord Mersey
in
the Titanic inquiry. Forbes Julian had now been a member for several years, and took much interest not only in the Papers but also in the work of the Association, being regular in attendance at the meetings of the General Committee and the committee of Section B. This was the last of the gatherings at which he was destined to be present, and no cloud overshadowed its brightness. The Association had always a welcome for him and his communications, and the cordial greetings of scientific friends after so many months' absence abroad In letters to the present afforded him much pleasure. writer, Professor Senier, President of Section B in 191 2, and Dr. E. F. Armstrong, the secretary, allude to the value of his contributions to the Chemical
Section.
On August 31st a visit made by Forbes Julian with other members to the Dockyard proved unusually attractive, as the Naval Commander-in-Chief, Sir A. W. Moore, showed great kindness to the metallurgist and his wife, pointing out various matters of interest and afterwards taking them on the water in
254
his boat.
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
It was also owing to his arrangement that on Monday, September 4th, the members assembled on board the Revenge, which proceeded to Spithead and was attacked by torpedo-boats and submarines. These experiences added to the gathering a note of naval and seaside matters and marked it as of special character, in contrast with the numerous meetings held in the manufacturing towns of the Midlands and the North of England, where factories and workshops
are the chief attractions.
Most
of the
West Country
visitors
with Plymouth and the dockyard
at
were familiar Devonport, but
to others these scenes, especially the naval display, gave some insight into the mass of detail and training required by naval commanders. An evening lecture on the " Physiology of Submarine Work " was delivered by Dr. Leonard Hill. This was particularly noteworthy to the metallurgist from his having had the experience of going down in a caisson used for the purpose of horizontal tunnelling under rivers, an operation Dr. Hill described in a detailed and interesting manner. A link with the naval history of the past was afforded by a visit to that famous ship the Victory, with the memories of Keppel, Parker, Kempenfelt, and, greatest of all, of Nelson. The spirit of gallant chivalry (as justly felt in the Navy of France as in that of Great Britain) preserves in undying memory the brave action of October 21st, 1805, fought with so much valour on
both
sides.
It
is
now
nearly a
first
years since the Victory was

battle.
hundred and fifty launched and well
over a century since she led the
way
into the great
During the progress
of the British Association an
interesting day was spent
on September 2nd, Arundel being visited, where the historic castle and beautiful
RETURN TO ENGLAND
255
grounds were seen, the party being afterwards entertained at luncheon by invitation of the Duke of In the afternoon they proceeded to Norfolk. Chichester, where the cathedral, the Cross, the old almshouses, and city walls were inspected, and tea Taken at the Deanery with Dean Hannah. The distinctive features of the cathedral, such as the campanile, or detached tower, and the five aisles, were the library, with Cranmer's copy specially noticed of Archbishop Hermann's service books and the interesting MSS., being also examined. Such visits were always much appreciated by Forbes Julian, who had made expeditions to several of the famous cathedral churches of England, whilst his wife had
;
visited
them
all.
the Sunday morning the Bishop of Winchester preached at Portsea Church at the special service for the members of the Association, his address being marked by the eloquence of diction and deep spiritual fervour which are characteristic of Dr. Talbot. Evensong was attended at Southsea, where Bishop Welldon preached to a crowded congregation. He was president of the Education Section this year, and both his address and sermon were remarkable from their philosophic acumen and penetration. At the close of the meeting the metallurgist had to be back at his post in London, his wife returning to Torquay. After his arrival in town he describes, in a series of letters written to her in the autumn during intervals between home visits, his various engagements, and the project of a laboratory at which he was to undertake research work for the firm. A few extracts from his correspondence are inserted, inasmuch as (though they contain no striking incidents) they throw some light on the amount of work he undertook successfully at this time and the pleasure he found in
On
2S6
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
the companionship of old friends, many being enrolled amongst the members of the Institution of Mining and Metallurgy, the Metallurgical Club, and the Royal Automobile Club. Various references occur in these letters to the project on foot for him to undertake work for the firm in Chili, but he himself never entertained the idea of going to South America at this
period.
Writing in September, he says
We
asked
I
are next going to send a

if I
wanted to
else.
am much
man out to Chili. I was could manage to do so but too closely engaged, and they will have to find
go,
and
if I
some one
Towards the close of the month a few days were spent with his wife on a visit to her relative Miss Binyon, at Henwick Grove, near Worcester, and service was attended at the beautiful cathedral on Sunday. After returning to Torquay for one day, he had to be back in London on account of the large amount of work that lay before him. During September the shadow of a great sorrow fell on literary circles through the death at Torquay A pang of grief passed of Archbishop Alexander. through the Church at the removal of so conspicuous a leader as the Irish Primate, and Forbes Julian heard
of this loss with great regret.
On October ist he describes a visit to the Mining Laboratory at South Kensington, which from its excellence aroused his enthusiasm.
of the
went to South Kensington to meet some of the Committee new School of Mines. It is a magnificent place and will, I believe, be the best of its kind in the world. The mining laboratory is being fitted up from a fund left by the late
I
Henry Bessemer. Fortunately, I shall have access to it whenever I wish. I am fully engaged just now with a great deal of work that Mr. Butters is leaving me to look after, but
Sir
RETURN TO ENGLAND
I
257
managed
to finish
my
paper, and
it
goes to the publisher in
the morning.
On October 14th the above-mentioned paper on " Losses in Cyanidation " appeared in the Mining Magazine, and there were some complimentary remarks about it in the leader. The paper opens with the following sentences
:
The
interest manifested in the filtration of slime, especially
with reference to the prevention of mysterious losses of gold and silver during cyanidation, has of late been much intensified by sundry unfortunate events. The fact that such losses do occur is beyond doubt, but the cause, as well as the remedy, is far from apparent. It may easily be proved that the presence of slime accounts for much of the loss, which in a measure is preventable by the aid of filters. The following few notes touching on the more important uses and features of the vacuum type of filter may be of service in Opening a discussion with a view to elucidating matters.
following points
author then proceeds to note and deal with the Preparation of Pulp for the Filter Cake Formation and Thickness ; Characteristics of Care of the Cake ; Washing the Cake Filter Cakes Re-precipitation and the Solution ; Preparation and Application of the Wash Solution ; Water Wash ; Washing by Filtration and Decantation. By mining men this contribution was considered important, for it contained much information as to recent developments. The following remarks about the paper appeared in the editorial columns of the Mining Magazine :
:
The
We
article
are fortunate in being able to give our readers a timely
on obscure losses in cyanidation by Mr. H. Forbes JuHan, the joint author, with Mr. Edgar Smart, of the standard text-book on cyanide practice. The article itself has the double merit of being prepared by a specialist who also happens to be able to express himself clearly ; in other words, he has
R
258
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
subjected his writing to a process of filtration, in which, however, a vacuum is conspicuously lacking. To us the result appears to be an enriched and clarified solution, ready for prompt precipitation in the mind of the intelligent reader.
to Loughborough on some work for the was made about this time, but he was able Company to spend October 30th, the anniversary of their wedding Owing to absences day, with his wife at Torquay. abroad, they had not kept it together at their home for
visit
seven years. After his return to town he mentions frequent meetings with Mr. H. L. Sulman, President of the Institution of Mining and Metallurgy, and other eminent experts at the Metallurgical Club. He now lunched there daily when in the metropolis, and the conversations held with the President, whether on metallurgical subjects or on reminiscences of South Africa, or merely table-talk, were always a stimulus to him. The evening concerts at the Royal Automobile Club were also appreciated, as these occasions were brightened not only by music but by social intercourse with many well-known motorists. In the next letter quoted he alludes to the Motor
Show
...
at
Olympia

()th
Nov., 191
1.
have been kept closely engaged at the ofiice lately, as the City is now very full of mining men, who constantly call
I
me up on
the telephone.
The
Metallurgical Club
is
crowded
at lunch-time,
and
.
I
.
have met Mr. Sulman and a number of

.
All the conversation at the Automobile Club is political, and about Balfour's resignation. I had a pleasant evening at the concert here last night. There were some excellent entertainers and the audience was
old friends there.
very appreciative.
got to the Motor Show to-day about very interesting and the best I have seen. There were such crowds of people that it was hard to get a good view of the exhibits, but what I did see was splendid
...
four o'clock, and found
it
RETURN TO ENGLAND
The Bishop
259
work. I hope to be down at Torquay and to meet our friends on Saturday, the nth.
and came to speak at the Pengelly Hall on November nth on the scheme for diocesan aid for the cause of Church Extension in Plymouth and Devonport. The task before the Church in these towns, with the large numbers of soldiers, sailors, and dockyard men, is of the most serious magnitude. From the inception of the scheme much interest had been felt at Torquay in the work. On this occasion the Bishop of Crediton and Sir Ernest Satow visited Forbes Julian and his wife. They had invited the Rev. E. P. Gregg and some of the Torquay clergy to meet the Bishop at "Redholme," with Admiral Sir William Acland, General Sir Peter Lumsden, General D'Aguilar Jackson, and others interested in the work amongst soldiers and sailors. Mr. W. E. Norris was also present, and some conversation took place with him and Sir Ernest Satow on recent events in Japan and China, the author having visited and written on Japan, where the diplomatist had lived for several
of Exeter, the Bishop of Crediton,
all
Sir Ernest
Satow
well attended, notwithstanding that the day unfortunately turned out wet and stormy. After the bright warm summer, the autumn of 191 became somewhat unsettled. However, Forbes Julian was delighted to spend it in England and to pay as many visits as possible to his home in the West. Though cosmopolitan by training, the spell that Devonshire cast upon him seemed such that he never tired of its climate and scenery. After being frequently in foreign lands and so permeated by their spirit, yet he was not so entirely in harmony with his surroundings abroad, even when in the most beautiful scenes, as when in the county of his adoption, and the claims of
years.
The meeting was
26o
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
the metropolis never obtained any firm hold upon
him. Writing in the middle of November from the Royal Automobile Club, he describes a fruitless search for a
suitable laboratory for the firm
:
I had a glorious drive by the sea to Torquay Station, and saw a fleet of submarines manoeuvring in Torbay. I had a good journey, and reached the office in time for the Board meeting, and spoke to some of the directors. It has been terribly wet everywhere except in Devonshire. I heard from several men at the club that they were drenched on the golf links, so (after all) dear old Torquay is one of the best places in the country. I have come to the club for the smoking concert, which promises to be well patronized. I was out with Simpson this morning, near Willesden, looking at some I went to the Metallurgical Club buildings for a laboratory. for lunch, and met a very interesting man who has spent most of his life in North and South America managing large smeltingworks. He built Mond's great works at Sudbury, and speaks In the afterof the elder Mond in most affectionate terms. noon I went with Simpson to see more buildings for a labora-
tory.
We
drove about in
.
. .
a taxicab for hours,
but could not
see anything suitable.
investigations concerning a
During the autumn he had been engaged .with scheme for the treatment of nitrate ores, a subject in which he had long taken a
keen interest. Early in December he had the opportunity of meeting several mining men at a gathering of sociability and good fellowship, as described in a letter dated London,
December
7th, 191
I
Mr. Sulman and
went to the Metallurgical Club, and met a great many other friends, and we had a pleasant dinner together and afterwards a smoking concert. Some of the members contributed to the programme. One of these (Mr. Williamson-Milne), a Scotsman, who sat next to me at dinner, told some excellent stories. The items
Last night
RETURN TO ENGLAND
261
given by the professionals were also greatly appreciated, and we had two good singers. Everyone seemed to enjoy the evening, which passed rapidly, for the proceedings were all over by 10.40. ... I was surprised to find from your letter that you and two others were the only speakers after Lady Acland's paper on the Insurance Bill at the Pengelly Hall. I should have thought there would have been a great number. They seemed to have plenty to say about it in the House of Commons last night.
. . .
Writing a few days later, he mentions various and alludes to the Durbar Ball at his Club, which proved very successful.
friends,

loth Dec, 191 1. Last night, after writing to you, I stayed in the smokingroom and had an interesting talk with a captain in the Dutch army. At lunch, at the Metallurgical Club, I sat at the same
man who was working with me twenty years ago in South Africa, and I had a long conversation with him about old times in the Transvaal. Crohn left to-night for Germany, and I saw him off. The other day at the Metallurgical Club I met Mr. Lance, who has just come from His young brother is in Nigeria, tin-mining. I did Alaska. not hear how their parents General and Mrs. Lance
table with a
.
.
were.
am
greatly looking forward to having Christmas at our
home and spending all the time with you. From your letter it appears that we shall have plenty of engagements. ... I am
intending to come here to-morrow night for the Durbar Ball at the club ; large numbers are expected. .
.
Coming down to Devonshire later in December, some work was brought to be done during the brief holiday snatched from office routine in town. The
was spent, as usual when in Torquay, in visiting Mrs. Maxwell and attending the services at church with his wife, and this last Christmas at home was
festival
161
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
especially bright
and happy. Many old friends were met with, and he had the pleasure of becoming
acquainted with Colonel Burn, the recently elected Member of Parliament for the Torquay Division, and the Hon. N. N. Stranahan, formerly Senator for New
York
State*
CHAPTER XXI LAST MONTHS AT HOME
AT
six
of the year 191 2 Forbes with the Butters Company as their consuhant had lasted nearly years. During this period, to quote from a well-
the
commencement
Julian's association
known member
of the firm,
He had been instrumental in developing a process which has revolutionized the metallurgy of gold and silver ores, and
even under the pressure of research work and active participation in the building-up of this process, he found time to devote his attention to far-reaching activities.
After his death Mr. Butters wrote
He was so helpful to me always. His fund of knowledge was so extensive and certain, and I have relied upon him so
many
years for advice
and
assistance, that
feel quite disI
heartened in going ahead with the important work which intended to carry out.
previously
his own work also, he (as had been connected with the company on terms which should enable him to continue his literary and metallurgical labours. It will
Anxious to prosecute
stated)
have been gathered that the lawsuit absorbed an unexpected amount of time, but now that this was practically concluded he hoped to have leisure to devote to fresh investigations. The company were also intending to start a laboratory, where they could have the benefit of his services, as mentioned in many of his letters. Few men have the opportunity of
263
264
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
following the progress of a fresh branch of science from its early years to its maturity, fewer still of being able to assist in its development ; but from his pioneer work in cyanidation and his later labours Forbes Julian was considered by his colleagues to be entitled to this position. The New Year dawned with the expectation of a happy period of scientific activity and professional usefulness the prospect seeming most fair, without any foreboding as to the grief and distress a few short
months would
bring.
Returning to London during January, he wrote home on the 20th describing a lecture in Albemarle
Street
;
I went to Sir James Dewar's lecture at the Royal on " Heat Problems " and enjoyed it very much. His experiments were wonderfully successful as usual, and disclosed some remarkable discoveries in connection with heat. There was a large attendance of distinguished scientific men.
Last night
Institution
and
Sir J. J. Thomson evidently took a keen interest in the discourse, will doubtless give some explanation of the new dis-
coveries in connection with his special subject of electrons.
The Duke of Northumberland was in many familiar faces were to be seen.
usual place, and exhibits were interesting, and there was a portfolio of Faraday relics full of autographs and portraits which, I think, would have attracted you as much as the scientific apparatus.
his
The
As already stated, the Jubilee of the Devonshire Association, the society founded by his father-in-law,
occurred this year, and the approaching celebration Mr. Pengelly's great services to science, the intervening years having served to establish his name securely amongst English geologists but his fame was not British alone, for, in the words of his friend Lord Lister, " the importance of his acutely planned and perseveringly conducted cave explorations is recognized throughout the scientific world."
recalled
;
LAST MONTHS AT HOME
265
Early in the year the great surgeon himself also passed within the veil. A brief outline of the geologist's career has been already given in this book. Forbes Julian wrote on January 27th from the Royal Automobile Club, at the close of his letter alluding to the correspondence relating to Mr. Pengelly, numerous letters from scientists and old friends having been received concerning the notices appearing in different papers
respecting his
Last night
I
life's
work.
early to the Royal Institution
exhibits,
and which were chiefly physical apparatus. The lecture by Professor Bertram Hopkinson on " The Pressure of a Blow " was a difficult one to make interesting to a mixed audience, but I think the
got
down
had an interesting time inspecting the
lecturer
succeeded in rendering matters clear to everyone. His experiments were exceedingly good, and displayed a great amount of ingenuity in order to illustrate the effects graphically. Sir William Crookes, Professor Silvanus Thompson, Dr. Perry and his niece, and a host of others whom you know, How pleasant for you to have had such were present. interesting letters about your father from Lord Coleridge, Sir Roper Lethbridge, Sir Alfred Croft, Lady Flower, Sir Edward Brabrook, the Bishop of Llandaff, and the Rev. J. O. Bevan.
.
to a request that Mr. Pengelly's favourite hammer might be presented to the Sedgwick Museum at the University of Cambridge, in order
In the next letter allusion
is
made
from Professor
McKenny Hughes
(as
the professor wrote)
that it might be placed with those of Hugh Miller, Professor Sedgwick, Sir Charles Lyell, and other geological hammers with which it had probably been out in the field, and thus be seen by future generations of students, to recall his cavern
researches
and other geological
discoveries.
Writing from
Julian says
:
London on January
30th,
Forbes
266
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
It would be very interesting to have your father's hammer amongst those of so many distinguished geologists at Cam-
bridge, as Professor Hughes suggests. It is pleasant to read the appreciative letters from him and from Dr. Smith Woodward, Dr. Tempest Anderson, Professor Schafer, and Professor Meldola.
Mr. Maxwell Adams, honorary secretary Devonshire Association, wrote as follows

:
of
the
am
glad that your father's

It
is
memory and
great services to
science are not forgotten.
of particular interest just
now,
are to celebrate in July the fiftieth anniversary of the Society which he founded and did so much to promote.
is due to the firm and wise he started the Association.
when we
All our success
basis
on which
At the above-mentioned Jubilee meeting Forbes Julian was desirous of being present, and was looking forward to entertaining all the members of the Association at the Pengelly Hall. He wrote to his wife
suggesting
. . .
this,
saying
could then invite all the members of the two he founded, the Devonshire Association and the Torquay Natural History Society, to meet other friends. The gathering together would probably be what the members of both societies would like best.
societies
.
.
We
In the middle of February he attended the dinner founder-members at the Royal Automobile Club, meeting, for the last time, many of the pioneers at this pleasant gathering. His duties kept him much in London during the spring, carrying on miscellaneous work (as consultant to the Butters Company) hardly capable of methodical record in this memoir, yet
of the
helpful to the firm
and to the progress
of metallurgy.
Escaping occasionally from these cares to the quiet and pure air of the country, he greatly appreciated the beautiful early season of the year in Devonshire, and on the Saturdays and Sundays often enjoyed the
LAST MONTHS AT HOME

genial hospitality of Sir William
267
and Lady Acland,
Olpherts, Captain Brine, Dr. Harley Gough, and other neighbours. A musical party in February given by the Honourable Helen Cubitt, just before
Lady
Lent, at which he met many friends, was the last evening gathering in Torquay that he and his wife attended together. The ninety-seventh birthday of the Rev. Evan Edwards, the oldest Baptist minister in the world and a resident at the watering-place, occurred this month. He was much pleased with the present of a book from Forbes Julian and his wife, and said at parting " Everyone is so kind to me, particularly those who are not altogether in sympathy with me in political or religious matters." The aged pastor's touching message to his friends and to the people generally was to beg them " to think more of God and less of
:
self
more of Christ and less of earthly things." Amongst the meetings attended in February at the Pengelly Hall was one at which the Bishop of Mashona;
land pleaded the needs of his vast diocese. Some conversation was held with the Bishop afterwards concerning work at the mining-camps and other industrial centres, also at the farming districts and amongst the large coloured population, the loyalty of the various native peoples throughout South Africa during the war being specially referred to. At the end of the month Forbes Julian heard that the law case for the firm at which he had worked so long and unremittingly had been decided in their This news was immediately conveyed to his favour. wife in the following letter
:
London,
2'^th Feb., 1912.
I
from
have good news to tell you. This morning we had a cable New York to say that we had won our case. Everyone
268
in the office
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
and the directors are much elated, and the telephone kept ringing me up to express congratulations. Mr. Butters has not yet heard the news because he is on board ship in the Pacific, and we shall not be able to get into communication with him for another week. Cables were sent to all the other members of the staff in South Africa, India, Japan, Canada, Mexico, and Central America. We have had a beautifully bright day, and the trees are budding into leaf here, as in Torquay. I hope the frost will not come, for it would put vegetation back a month.
On
friend,
I
receipt of the news, letters of congratulation

in. Writing to him from Canada, Mr. James Johnston, says
:
poured
his
Scotch
It feels
I
must congratulate you on the success of the Filter lawsuit. good, does it not, after all those years of weary waiting ?
and
sure that Mrs. Julian will feel that she has been in will be glad it is all over, and well over at that.
it,
am
too,
On March
enclosing the
pages.
6th the metallurgist wrote
home
saying
This morning, on arriving

decision
of
at the office, I found a long letter the case, which occupies twelve
Early in March he returned home, and discussed his wife the probability of at last completing the work for a third edition of his book on Cyaniding. On his next visit home on Saturday, March i6th, he mentioned his satisfaction at having remained in town the previous day, not only on account of the evening lecture given by Mr. Soddy at the Royal Institution on " The Origin of Radium," which he had attended, but also by reason of an American cable received from the Charles Butters Company asking him to go out again to the United States in connection with the Vacuum filters and the conclusion of the lawsuit.
with
He
said
LAST MONTHS AT HOME
269
I sent out word immediately that I could not go again, and have not only cabled, but written a long letter, declining the
proposal.
In answer to this refusal, which he showed to the present writer, another urgent American cable begging him to go arrived at Torquay (forwarded from London) on the morning of Monday, March 1 8th, and he finally consented. He said, handing the cable " I suppose I had better go, as they to his wife seem so anxious for me to do so that I hardly like to but I go very reluctantly." decline again He then mentioned that there were men on the staff already in the States who could do what was required there, adding: "It is a mistake for me to leave England just now. I wish they had not asked me a second time to go, but would have accepted
:
my
refusal."
Invariably buoyant and cheerful, on this occasion alone through all the years of close intimacy in their married life was his wife distressed to see him evidently During his busy career he had known discouraged. many disappointments, amongst these being the inability to profit by the concessions obtained with much danger in the Barotse district, the severe illness which forced the relinquishment of his pleasant engagement at Frankfort, the loss of a large amount of income in the Boer War through the commandeering by the Boer generals of wagon companies in which he was a shareholder, and the burning down of his beautiful house at Shaldon. But all these reverses had been borne not only in silence, but with unfailing spirit, his simple tastes making pecuniary This unexpected a slight grievance only. losses to leave England seemed, however, from summons the first to give him a presage of coming disaster. In a letter from Croydon later in April to the present
270
writer,
his
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

aunt,
Miss
last
D.
reference to his that he spoke openly of his and that they had never seen
visit
Neligan, mentions (in to her and her sister)

dislike
to
this
going,
him
in
mood
before.
Having reluctantly consented to undertake the the preparations for his departure were at once commenced and his passage was booked by the Butters Company on the R.M.S. Olympic^ of the White Star Line, which was due to sail on
journey,
April 3rd. Back again in London, he wrote home on March 20th, 2 1 St, and 22nd, and in all these letters mentioned that he would have to leave on April 3rd. In addition to the work for the firm he was preparing for them a little book on " Slime Filtration and Cyaniding,"
was found that this literary labour would In few days' longer stay in England. another letter to his wife from London, on March 25th, he wrote
and
it
necessitate a
This morning we had the printers in, and, as they cannot have the proofs ready before April 3rd, Mr. Humphreys had my cabin on the Olymfic cancelled and has engaged one on
the Titanic, which does not sail until the loth. ... I shall have to make some fresh arrangements (at Hampstead), for I believe they have let my rooms.
If it
had not been
for the
above-mentioned
altera-
tion of date in connection with the preparation of this publication for the firm he would have been a passenger on the Olympic. Several steamers were tied up at Liverpool and Southampton on account of
the Coal Strike, but both these giant ships of the White Star Line were announced to sail early in April. It was not from any wish on his part to be on the great liner on her maiden voyage, but simply on account of concluding this literary work and the shortage of
LAST MONTHS AT HOME
271
steamers, that the Titanic was selected for him by the Butters Company. The little book appeared not long after his tragic death at sea, and, in forwarding a copy of this unpretending treatise to the present writer, Mr. Humphreys, the secretary and manager of the Butters Company
in
London, wrote
as follows
Capel House,
i()th
July^ 191 2.
As you will naturally be interested to see in print the latest work of your dear husband, I am sending you under separate cover a copy of " Slime Filtration and Cyaniding." This treatise, though ostensibly a trade publication, contains so much valuable information on the latest of metallurgical developments that it cannot fail to secure a prominent place amongst the other valuable reference-books which the modern
metallurgist finds necessary to keep constantly at hand.
At the end of March Forbes Julian wrote home describing a lecture given by Sir J. J. Thomson on " Results of the Application of Positive Rays to the
Study of Chemical Problems," which he attended in Albemarle Street. Here he met for the last time the Rev. J. O. Bevan and others closely linked in friendship, scientific association, and intellectual tendency
of thought.

'JfOth March, 191 2. went to the Royal Institution last night, getting there by After the lecture was 8.35, but failed to find Mr. Bevan. over, however, I heard my name called, and saw his genial The face only a little way from where I had been sitting. lecture was excellent, and the subject was one that interested
me
intensely.
great deal of
it
related to quite
new
investi-
gave a good many humorous hits at chemists, which probably attracted the attention of Dr. Armstrong, who was present. The experiments were difficult The for me to see owing to the distance at which I was sitting.
gations.
Sir J. J.
Thomson
272
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

I
exhibits were very interesting.

successful evening,
perfect.
On the whole, it was a most only wanted you to make it quite had a very busy day at the office, and if nothing
and
I
fresh
I shall have practically finished on Monday, with the exception of correcting the proofs. ... It would be delightful to have you with me, but, of course, if you do not feel quite up to the long land journey I shall try and content myself with the thought that you are keeping in better health at our home. I am afraid that there are not any through trains to San Francisco, but there need be only one
comes to hand
change, that at Chicago. I hope to hear that you are rapidly getting well ; do tell me what Dr. Gumming thinks. I have arranged to stay on at Hampstead until next Wednesday, April 3rd, when I hope to join you at Torquay. I am getting through my work famously.
. .
His wife (who had been ill with influenza during the spring) had been anxiously considering the possiIt was felt that the voyage bility of joining him. might be beneficial, but as he was expecting to proceed to California immediately, his usual thoughtfulness made him apprehensive that she might be unequal to the long land journey. Writing again from London on April ist, he said
:
I have been thinking it would be far too much of a risk for you to take by leaving so soon after this attack of influenza. It would make me terribly unhappy if you were taken ill on the way, and I should always reproach myself for wanting you I know now it is by far the wisest thing to give up to go. the idea, and I will try to hurry things so as to get back as soon as possible. I want so much to return to England to be with you for the Jubilee meeting of the Devonshire Asso-
ciation at Exeter in connection with your father's
memory.
few
...
days.
It
. .
will
.
be delightful to be
at
home
for the last
He returned to Torquay on April 3rd to spend Holy Week, and beautiful weather was experienced during On the peaceful, happy Sunday these quiet days. home the sound of the Easter bells rang for the at
LAST MONTHS AT HOME

last
273
time in his ears those bells which had hallowed marriage rite, had so often called him to prayer, and were soon to summon mourners to the solemn
his
service celebrating his last rest.
Spring had brought back leaf and blossom, and on Easter Day, going out with his wife for the first time since her illness, everything was bright with the rays of the Easter sun, all nature seeming to rejoice and hold high festival. Walking in the garden in the afternoon and watching the opening leaves fluttering in all their beauty in the breeze, he spoke to her of the great happiness that these quiet interludes in the country in her society had always brought into his active life. His last days on land were spent in the home that had been so dear to him ; his last walks taken amidst the pleasant valleys and beauteous lanes of the county he knew and loved so well, clad with all the vernal freshness and beauty of the April verdure. And it was by his own unselfish renunciation that he was about to be separated for so much longer than he was permitted then to know from the companionship that had proved so perfect and had meant so much to both
CHAPTER XXII
LETTERS FROM THE THANIC AND THE CARPATHIA
R.M.S. titanic was due to sail on her maiden voyage early on Wednesday, April loth. It was found on inquiry that the journey from Torquay to Southampton would be unusually slow on account of the suspension of several trains owing to the Coal Strike. The steeplechases at Torquay on Easter Tuesday, April 9th, also added locally to the confusion and congestion of traffic. His wife therefore asked him whether he could postpone the journey one day and leave England on Thursday, the nth, being transferred to the Celtic, of the White Star Line, which sailed from Liverpool on that date.
I
THE
He
replied
should like it much better, as the Celtic is a slower boat I should have a longer time at sea, which I always enjoy, but I fear it might inconvenience the firm if I went later.
and
His wife suggested that, as he had been already obliged to alter his arrangements so as to await the proofs for their convenience, one additional day could scarcely matter, but, always averse to giving trouble to others, he felt he could make no further alteration.
His friends Mr. Myers and Dr. Cumming, and his elder sister, Mrs. Maxwell, who called on Good Friday and Easter Eve, asked him if he preferred travelling on the new vessel.
wife's
"Not in the least," he replied. "I do not care at all for the palm-court and gymnasium and such extra attractions,
274
LETTERS FROM THE TITANIC, ETC.

and never
275
visited them when coming home last time on the Mauretania. I shall keep to the smoking-room and library, and only just look over the vessel before starting."
Whilst in
feverish chill,
London he had been unwell with

it
was not without concern that his his embarking on a fresh expedition whilst still suffering from the effects of illness. Leaving Torquay soon after midday on Tuesday, April 9th, the following extract from a letter to her written the same evening describes his journey.
South-Western Hotel, Southampton,
<)th
and wife thought of
April, 191 2.
at
it
The journey, with four changes, thirty-five minutes Newton and forty-five at Exeter, made me think that would have been too much for you in your present state
health.
of
into a special van,
At Salisbury all the luggage for the boat was put which was attached to the train. At Romsey this was disconnected and attached to the Southamptrain, so that
I
we had no trouble. I arrived here at 8.25. was wiser for you not to take the risk (of coming), as it is really very cold, with a strong wind. ... At Exeter there were about twenty trunks for the Titanic, mostly secondton
...
think
it
and
third-class passengers.
Writing to
his
sister-in-law,
Mrs. Maxwell, from
the R.M.S. Titanic at Southampton, he describes the steamer, and explains that he had been too closely occupied on Easter Monday correcting proofs to be enabled to visit her, for he had been working up to the very last with his accustomed vigour. He also regrets that his wife's recent attack of influenza had prevented her from accompanying him to the States.
On
board R.M.S.
Titanic,
loth April, 191 2. I was very sorry not to have been able to see you again I was " rushed " up to the end. before leaving Torquay.
I
left
by the 1.35 train and got to Southampton
at
8.25
276
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
not bad for these times. This is the most wonderful ship " is not the word for it. It is a I have ever seen ; " palatial marvel. Everything is spick and span even to the stewards and stewardesses. AH the other great ships in the docks look mere cockle-shells. All it wants ... is darling Hetty, but " flue." it would have been too risky for her so soon after the
His wife received from him three letters written on board the Titanic, one bearing the Southampton postmark and the other two that of Queens town. The first gives some account of the vessel.
On
I
Southampton, board R.M.S. Titanic,

loth April, 191 2.
have just been over the ship and seen all the sitting- and The decks are saloon-rooms. It is all most luxurious. magnificent, and the enclosed ones are fitted up more like smoking-rooms. My cabin is not the one shown ... on the Olympic plan. ... It is, however, more like a small bedroom than a ship's cabin. ... If only you could have got safely to the ship, I know you would love to have the voyage. ... So far there are very few people on board, but the London train has not yet arrived. ... I left the hotel at 10 o'clock and walked to the ship, a matter of only ten minutes. My trunks were taken charge of by the Southwestern man, who sent them to the ship and put them into
. .
my Do
cabin.
want you to take great care of

is
yourself.
everything that
I shall feel
possible to get rid of the influenza,

.
and then
happier about leaving you.
After the vessel had taken on passengers and mails Cherbourg the same evening he wrote again, describing an incident which cast a gloom over the starting for the disastrous voyage.
at
On
board R.M.S.
loth April,
1
Titanic,
91 2. I was delighted to get your nice long letter and the telegram Our ship had some trouble in just after leaving the dock. getting away. There are a great many large steamers lying
in the docks
on account
of the Coal Strike,
among them being
LETTERS FROM THE TITANIC, ETC.
277
the four American liners and the Oceanic. The New York, which was secured to the Oceanic, broke loose, due to the backrush of water from the Titanic as she was moving past. Tugs rushed to the assistance and succeeded in holding the New York, which was moored to another part of the dock in order that we might move away without doing damage to other boats. This delayed us, and we did not reach Cherbourg
us leave, but very
6. There were great crowds watching few strangers were allowed on board. I have now explored the ship, except the Turkish bath and the swimming-bath. The Parisian cafe is quite a novelty and looks very real. I do not know to what extent it is patronized, but it will, no doubt, become popular amongst rich Americans. There are two bands, one in the lounge and the other in the cafe. I also visited the gymnasium, which is full of the most wonderful machines, which cure all the aches that flesh is heir to. There are over three hundred first-saloon passengers on board a large proportion being
until
7 instead of
Americans. The weather has been fine, but cool and more or less cloudy. I expect we shall reach Queenstown about 7 in the morning, and I don't suppose they will give us time to write in answer to yours, so I am writing this evening.
. .
The following morning (Thursday) he wrote again before reaching Queenstown, and also sent a cable saying he had just met on the vessel his friend Colonel John Weir. On board R.M.S. Titanic
nth
April, 191 2.
do not arrive at Queenstown until about noon, which gives me an opportunity of writing again. I had a good night and was very comfortable. The ship is so steady that it is almost the same as being on land. More than half the oflBcers and stewards on board are familiar faces to me, as they are taken from the Adriatic and Oceanic. The two deck-stewards remembered me quite well, and allotted me a chair in a select
part of the deck.
We
This is a brilliant morning and quite warm. ... I think if you could only have reached the ship safely you would have been all right, for there are practically no draughts. Revolving
278
air.
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
doors are much in use, which prevent any through currents of In the smoking-room there is a big fireplace, which makes The other rooms also have fireplaces, but have it cosy. imitation fires heated by electricity ; they are poor things compared with the real article. The bands are unusually good. ... I will feel happy with the thought that you are taking care of yourself at " Redholme."
.
.
This was the last letter his wife ever received from him. Leaving Queenstown soon after two o'clock, the steamer had the coast in view until dusk. The final sight of land from the Titanic was of the green hillsides and rugged cliffs of Ireland, where his boyhood had been passed. The memories of his closing week on earth were of the home of his married life and the loved district of the West of England. Descended from a long line of sailors and living
by the sea and loving it, the present writer had always gladly accompanied her husband on his voyages ; nor had she ever previously felt any anxiety about him when on the ocean. But on the night of Sunday, April 14th, after retiring to rest she was filled with some presentiment of coming evil and felt too anxious Rising up again before midnight, to be able to sleep. she continued for a long time reading prayers, especially those appointed to be used at sea. Eagerly inquiring the next morning from the servants if any news had come and scanning the papers, she was temporarily reassured, for the intelligence of the catastrophe did not reach her until the afternoon. But surely a guiding influence must have directed her thoughts, and some projection of the mind into space must have enabled her in some mysterious way to hold communion with one far distant in the icy regions of the North Atlantic, whose spirit before translation was expanding into a freer, fuller state.
LETTERS FROM THE fHANIC, ETC.
279
It was afterwards a source of solace to believe that she had been permitted to be thus especially near to him in thought and prayer during those last solemn
and supreme hours
of existence.
letters
Permission has kindly been given to include the of one of the ladies amongst the surviving British first-class saloon passengers, picked up by the Carpathia from the Titanic boats. These letters (being Vv-ritten by an eye-witness to a near relative immediately after the catastrophe) are specially worthy of note.
First letter
:
On
. .
board the Carpathia,

4.15.
Wednesday, ijth April, 191 2.

.
We have
;
been on
this vessel since
Monday
at 8.30 a.m.,
up, and I have not been able to write has been too ghastly, and I still seem dazed. Sunday night on the Titanic got very, very cold, icy, and I asked the steward why it was so cold. He said we must be in the region of ice. and I went to bed at ten at a quarter to twelve we were awakened by an awful sort of bang and the engines stopping suddenly. had an extraordinary feeling that something dreadful had happened, as when the engine stopped there was a terrible silence and then the awful noise of steam being let oflf. heard one or two people walking up and down the passage, so we got up and asked the steward what had happened. He said we had struck an iceberg. This excited us, and we put on dressing-gowns
a line before
it
. . .
when we were picked
We
We
and fur coats and went up on deck. We went forward and saw the bow of the ship covered in ice, but we could not see the berg. We walked about on deck and talked, and wondered if we should go back to bed or not, when suddenly the Purser " Will you all go quietly and put on appeared and said warm clothing and your life-belts, and go up on the top deck ? The women and children will be put in the lifeboats first." We all dispersed very calmly, got to our own state-room, but could find no life-belts. A nice man came with us and hunted for them, and then a steward came. He did not even know that the order for life-belts had been given, but he got
:
28o
them
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
We were told there was for us from under the bed. time to dress, which we did, and calmly and quietly went to the top boat-deck. You see by this the perfect confidence Then the boats began people had in the great steamer. to be filled with women ... to be lowered from the topWe had a terrible scene with a little foreign lady who deck. would cling to her husband, and at last he threw her into our arms and asked us to take care of her. We were only twentyfour women in our boat, with but one able-bodied seaman, and one cook. ... As I try to write all two stewards this it seems as if I could not go on ; it is all too terrible. When we reached the water we rowed a few yards, and saw that great ship with her bows right down in the water. Before we began to dress the water was pouring into the racket-court and baggage-rooms ; so the maid told us. The Captain gave us orders to row to a light we saw and come back to the boat to get others we were only twenty-four women and four men, and we could have held sixty-five. It was the stillest night possible, not a ripple on the water and the stars wonderfully bright. The seaman, who was a splendid man, wanted to go back and get more people into our boat, but a discussion arose with the stewards, who said we had orders from Captain Smith to row for the light and we had no right to do anything else. We started to row to that awful light that never got nearer. I was at the tiller steering, and the women in our boat rowed with the one seaman for hours. The terror of seeing the ship go down and the fearful screams and shrieks of the steerage passengers who were left was too awful. Then the dreadful noise of all the air-tight compartments going going and then a noise like a distant battle or an earthquake, and then the whole ship went under. We had to row away as far as we could because of the suction. We were in that boat till dawn, following the light that never got nearer. Then, suddenly, we saw the lights of this steamer, and we turned and began to row towards her. We got there about 8.30, and it was beginning to get rough and very difficult to steer. I was numb from the waist downwards when we got here we were pulled up in a hoist like a swing. went up just before me. I could not walk when I got up
. . . .
.
as
my
legs
had got numb.
fainted directly she
r\
LETTERS FROM THE fHANIC, ETC.
281
got off the hoist ; the strain had been too much. Then all the women came into the saloon some unconscious, some
more or less collapsed. They had brandy for us and hot coffee, and they were wonderful all they did for us. There are about 150 young widows, and to see all these poor women is too terrible. They have managed accommodation for us all here, many sleeping on the floor
hysterical,
and
all
in the dining-saloon
we have a cabin with four of us in it, but are so thankful to be in anything. The separating of husbands and wives was ghastly. and I are so thankful we had no men relatives with us.
;
.
Second
letter
board the Carpathian Thursday, iSth April, 191 2. ... I think we all feel a little better this morning, we that are so fortunate in having lost no one, but all the poor women's faces are piteous to see. Yesterday morning I was cutting out garments for the very busy with a Miss B
steerage and second-class children, some of whom had no clothes at all. made little coats and leggings out of the
blankets, &c.
On
then
.
We
I
.
went round the steerage and hospital
with the doctor. We are supposed to get into New York to-night, but are still in fog. Under ordinary circumstances they would not land us at night, but perhaps now they will. This water If you could only imagine how we long for land. all round is terrible. The poor widows oh it is dreadful to see them. N and I have helped in looking after these poor distressed souls, and it has helped us so much. One girl has just come up and given me stockings and gloves to land in, as my stockings were all ripped up that night in the boat. One lady who has her husband People are so good. saved (only about five of them have) is an American she is going to ask a friend to take us round in her car in New York to buy some things, as we have nothing but what we stand All the crew, captain, passengers, and stewards up in. are perfectly sweet to us. There are two little French children who have lost their father, and I take one of them every day for a while. I love to do something, as it stops one think.
ing.
Third
letter,
on reaching
New
York
282
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

i^th April, 191 2.
1. 1 5
P.M.
and sound now that it is all over one feels full of gratitude and thankfulness for the deliverance from the dangers we have been brought through.
... At
last
we
are here safe
seems like an ugly dream. We got into the night at 9.30, after a dreadful time coming up the river, with all the newspaper tugs that wanted to put pressmen on board. Of course, our captain would allow no one on board but the pilot. All the people meeting the boats stood under their names, the officials standing in rows to keep back the crowds. The reports that had been circulated about the condition of the passengers were terrible, and quite unstrung the men who were meeting people. Thank God I am here
...
It all
last
dock
The Countess
following extract
I
of Rothes, after arriving in England,
sent a letter to the present writer, from

is
which the
taken
.
.
5 Hyde Park Gate, S.W. have just returned and am only so very sorry that I cannot give you any information about your husband. I did not see anything of him at the time of the disaster. I cannot tell you I hope that you are feeling stronger now. how much I sympathize with you in your great sorrow.
. . .
Mr. Shepherd, an American friend who was much attached to Forbes Julian, went to the Cunard Pier to meet the Carpathia in the hope of hearing some tidings, and sent the following letter to the present
writer from
New
York
New
I feel
York,
1912. that I should let you know that ever since we received the report of the terrible fate of the S.S. Titanic I have put
2yd April,
forth every effort to obtain

Julian.
some news from or about Mr.
night on which the Carpathia arrived I went to the where the survivors were landed, but was unable to learn anything that would be a comfort to you. Knowing Mr. Julian for a long time, I grew very fond of him, and I feel and share with you the loss sustained by his most untimely
pier
.
.
.
The
death.
CHAPTER
" Quit you
il
like
XXIII
THE FOUNDERING OF THE THANIC

men, be strong "
FTER
at
ZA
Queenstown the Titanic^ s run noon on Friday was 386 miles, on Saturday 519, and on Sunday at noon 546.
leaving
12
The
fine.
voyage
and uneventful
during this half-week was pleasant the sea was calm and the weather
;
The present writer gathered some account of these few days spent on the giant steamer from Lady Alice Leslie, whose nieces, the Countess of Rothes and Miss Gladys Cherry, were on board and afterwards rescued from the Titanic^s boats by the Carpathia, Additional information was received from friends of Colonel John Weir and Mr. Hipkins. They both perished on the vessel together with Forbes Julian, but their relatives obtained accounts from passengers who had been saved. She had also two visits at her house, during the long illness that followed her bereavement, from another survivor, who recognized her husband from the por" I used to see that gentleman traits, and stated walking up and down on the first-class deck very rapidly every day." A conversation held on Saturday, April 13th, with Forbes Julian was also repeated.
:
The general facts of the loss are known to the public through the official inquiry, and under all the circumstances the present writer has preferred to pass over many particulars and to avoid making observations
283
284
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
on the tragedy, though having naturally a strong opinion upon it. On Sunday, April 14th, morning service v^âs held on board in the saloon, and the account of the simple evening service arranged by the Rev. Edgar Carter will have been read by many people in the descriptions given by survivors.
The details of the dreadful disaster are not yet dulled in the public mind, so doubtless the accounts of the ice vârnings received during the Sunday vîll be
readily recalled.
At 11.40 on Sunday night the collision wîth the iceberg occurred, and the injuries received by the steamer WGie of such a nature that she sank in two hours and forty minutes. Had she been able to remain afloat a short time longer than she did, everyone on board might have been saved, as Captain Rostron, of the rescuing ship, the Carpathia, reached the scene of the wreck about 4 o'clock in the morning.
message by Marconigram Captain Ransom, of the Baltic, and several other commanders also started promptly for the work of rescue. The loss of the great liner, which sank so rapidly in the Atlantic abyss, carrying hundreds of men to their deaths, constituted the most appalling catastrophe in the maritime history of the world. It gave at once a rude shock to the theory that even the largest ships In view of the first statement that are unsinkable. no lives had been lost, and that the Virginian was standing by, a feeling of relief had prevailed. The joy and gladness created by this statement were soon dispelled. This and other conflicting messages received only added a vast accumulation of agony to the dreadful suspense and the alternations of hope and fear ; and as hope died out, suspense gave way to despair.
his
" Coming hard " was
directly he
knew
of the disaster.
FOUNDERING OF THE flfANIC
285
It has been shown elsewhere in this memoir that Forbes Julian had extensive knowledge of the management of boats, and there were probably many of the passengers, both British and American, similarly experienced. It was suggested, therefore, by a few of his friends during these terrible days of uncertainty that possibly he and other male passengers might have been asked, in the scarcity of sailors, to form part of a crew for the boats. The Titanic foundered at 2.20 a.m. on Monday, the 15 th, carrying with her hundreds of male passengei^s, some women, and a large proportion of the crew. Probably in many of the chief towns of Great Britain
and America some

this side of
of these passengers were
known.
the Atlantic, Belfast and Southampton On were filled with grief and consternation at especially the loss, the latter seaport being turned into a veritable city of mourning, as nearly all the crew had their
homes
these
there.
humble
;
wealthy
Lamentation and distress were alike in cottages and in the mansions of the rich and poor mourning together, and seeing
same scene of horror, those they loved struggling by the starlight in the ice-cold water v^th none to save them. Very few men, even the strongest, could long survive in the winter water of the North Atlantic. The survivor already referred to told the present writer that a group of men amongst the first-class
in imagination the
passengers,
who were
well
known by
sight,
had been
helping the women and children as the boats were being lowered, and believed that her husband was " None of these brave men amongst them, adding
:
asked to be allowed to go in the boats." Testimony as to Forbes Julian being in this group was given to an American friend, Dr. Perkins, in New York, by another of the survivors of the Titanic shortly after the catastrophe.
286
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
" It was felt from the first," wrote one who knew Forbes Julian intimately, " that in such a situation as that in which the passengers on the Titanic were placed he would not be in the boats, but would be amongst those who showed such great courage in giving up their places for the safety of the women." " He was not the man Another old friend declared to leave the ship as long as a woman or child remained on board." With hundreds of other men, he stood by to let the weak go first. Theirs be the praise that they perished, whilst the helpless were rescued. The number of men from the first and second class saved numbered together rather fewer than the men saved from the third class ; so that it is satisfactory to feel that the steerage passengers were not unfairly treated. The doom of those lost on the majestic steamer, the largest and most magnificent ship that had ever been constructed, called forth the sympathy of the whole The contrast between the fancied civilized world. security of the first few days on the great vessel and the dreadful disaster of the closing night aroused warm and deep feeling even in the most thoughtless. The heroism of those who so bravely faced death also evoked universal admiration. Just at the last, in one case mentioned by Mr. LightoUer (the second officer),
:
when no women were

climbed into
a
in sight
and
few
men had
on some women come forward. The steamer was going down rapidly by the head, and the water rising higher and higher, whilst the boats were being sent yet those who remained behind showed the away greatest fortitude, although aware that they had no
seeing
;
boat, they got out immediately
possibility of leaving the sinking ship
when
the boats
truly in
had been dispatched.

describing
^'
Mr. LightoUer spoke
the conduct of the male passengers as splendid." After the final boat had gone, when all
FOUNDERING OF THE THANIC
287
on board knew that the end must be near, the same heroism was displayed as had been exhibited from the first. This is mentioned by Mr. Lightoller and Colonel Gracie. The heroic bandsmen continued to play to
instil
courage.
Even
at the end,
when numbers
the
of
his pathetic and deeply Outlook : " There was no panic, though appalling death was evident in the near future. At this point I may be permitted to make the statement that, from my personal view-point at the bow of the ship as well as elsewhere, I saw nothing but unexampled self-sacrifice and self-control and the greatest courage under the most harrowing circumstances." After the ship sank, when escape from death seemed well-nigh hopeless, both these courageous men swam to an upturned collapsible boat. They were taken off finally by a lifeboat, and reached the Carpathia safely. A few months later one of the present writer's relatives met Colonel Grade's sister and heard further During the early morning of April 15th details. Captain Rostron rescued all those in the boats. " I thank God," said this brave sailor, " that I was within wireless hailing distance, and that I got there in time to pick up the survivors of the wreck." Before leaving the scene of the tragedy he held a thanksgiving service for the survivors, and a memorial service for those who had perished. The account of the latter service brought a slight measure of consolation to some of those newly bereaved, to whom the thought of the " vast and wandering grave " of those they mourned seemed more fearful than " the narrow house " which moves only with the earth's motion in the quiet cemetery or churchyard, where the spring flowers speak in each revolving year of the Resurrection.
poor steerage passengers Colonel Gracie wrote (in
crowded on
deck,
interesting paper) in the
288
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
Hundreds of miles were between those lost and their homes, and no tender heart could softly come to see " I think you can understand their resting-place. I felt that you all would," I held the service. why
Captain Rostron said in a letter to the present writer, sent after returning to England. In coming to the rescue so promptly in spite of the
great danger from ice,
and
in the excellence of
all
the
arrangements made, it was felt by everyone that the commander of the Carpathia had done the very best that could possibly have been done, and more than many men might have been able to accomplish under
the circumstances. As to the terrible and tragic loss of life, the dead being counted by hundreds, all the far-reaching devices in use for procuring assistance had been in vain. The wireless telegraphy vibrated its appealing messages of distress over the dark waters and summoned distant vessels, but they were not near enough to save those not in the boats, and before the Carpathia could reach the Titanic she had ended her first and last voyage in spite of the despairing messages that had sent out the appeal in ever-widening circles through so many miles. The giant steamer, which had been thought of as a huge lifeboat, proved the coffin of many of the passengers and crew. Some went down with the vessel, others cast themselves into the water, still trusting that help might reach them on the great deep in time to avert the dreadful destruction that was impending. Colonel Gracie, Mr. Bride, the Marconi operator, and others on the upturned collapsible boat, relate that they all constantly repeated the Lord's Prayer together during this awful time of danger. Never at service in crowded city or quiet country church could such an appealing cry have been sent up to the Great Creator and Preserver of Mankind,
FOUNDERING OF THE THANIC
289
all those of differing creeds and spheres of life uniting and seeming to recognize no help or presence but that of God in that supreme and solemn hour. Concerning the number of persons rescued from the Titanic^ Lord Mersey says (Report, p. 39) Of the 712 saved, 189 were, in fact, men of the crew, 129 were male passengers, and 394 were women and children. It is abundantly evident, as already shown from the testimony of Mr. LightoUer and Colonel Gracie, that on that fearful night, even w^hen the last boats with the women were going off and the danger was evident to al], there was no unworthy panic, no trampling on the weak, and that amid much temptation to be selfish or cowardly, the brave, unselfish men left on board rose to the highest traditions of manhood.
:
Their behaviour in choosing the path of honour, with certain death before their eyes makes this loss a proud sorrow, but cannot compensate for such a sacrifice.
Before sunrise almost all those left on the decks had sunk beneath the waves of the ocean, a few only having been picked up and rescued. Until the Carpathia arrived in New York the list of passengers saved could not be definitely known. The remembrance of those days of suspense, of slowly dwindling hope and intense mental suffering, must ever remain burnt into the hearts and minds of the
widows and
newly bereaved. The terrible men had actually perished, which during the first few days had only been partially and imperfectly heard as a mysterious rumour, scarcely believed, caused distress and dismay to thousands of people for whom it was not a personal sorrow. Those more closely concerned had felt from the first that it must be true, as in the case of all overwhelming calamities. For them life itself seemed to stand still
relatives
certainty that hundreds of
before the bitterness of this great bereavement.
290
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
A survivor w^hose letters wêre seen by the present writer described the parting of husbands and vîves
most terrible. Those in the boats wîtnessed the most distressing horror of the night w^hen they saw^
as
the great vessel sink dovm before their eyes. No element of terror vi^hich the mind can conceive could have been wânting in that fearful scene. A month later the history of these last tragic moments vâs related by a survivor to the present v^riter, w^ho, seeing that she wâs very ill and so much affected as to break dov^n completely, became also utterly overcome vîth emotion and unable to proceed with the narrative for
some time.
The tragic character of the disaster was heightened by the thought of the many valuable lives sacrificed, amongst them (to mention only a few) being the Rev. Edgar Carter, Mr. Stead, Mr. Hipkins, Henry Forbes Julian, with his friend Colonel John Weir, Mr. Hayes, Major Butt, the artist Mr. T. D. Millet, Mr. Widener, Mr. Ryerson, Mr. Thayer, and Mr.
Strauss the Anglican clergyman, the noted journalist, the British scientist, the brave bandsmen, the stokers, and many of the courageous crew, faithful to the best British traditions, going down together, vdth the intrepid American military men and millionaires, all choosing the better part and heroically giving up their places in the boats to the women and children. It is pathetic to think that a brave Englishwoman, Mrs. Carter, and an equally devoted American wife, Mrs. Strauss, perished with the husbands they would not leave ; although a death so bravely met should call forth envy rather than pity. Colonel John Weir was elderly and infirm, and his friend would not have left him to perish alone. Forbes Julian would have instinctively put away the
thought of
a selfish struggle for life,
and
it
must have
FOUNDERING OF THE nTANIC
291
been a comfort to the elder man to feel that a friend was at his side going with him into the darkness. It is impossible to think that such lives were given in vain. Public men whose name and work were widely honoured, young men in the dawn of active life, and poor and unknown emigrants perished together, the widows and orphans who were left meeting in that fellowship of suffering which raises all souls above the conventionalities of existence. To most of these men life must have been dear, and the thought of sudden death bitter and dreadful. To many of them existence was not only abundant in the present, but full of the hope of further achievements in the future. Some were active workers who, by their personal efforts and public services, were
entitled to special
said that the
remembrance
as scientists,
men
of
letters, great captains of industry.
It has
been truly
young are sometimes impatient to die, the old are often content to die, but men in the prime As they leave youth of life mostly wish to live. behind a feeling of the value of life increases there are projects to be fulfilled, books to be written, work to be finished. To all, life is a talent never to be regained. In a single night, between sunset and sunrise, during a few short hours of oblivion to many unconscious slumberers, there had passed away from this earth hundreds of lives, some rich in promise with apparently happy futures, carrying with them all the hopes of other lives. But the Christian constancy and courage, the absolute self-renunciation and unflinching heroism with which so many met their doom, help us to realize that death is not the end of all things, and that this life is but the entrance into the true life, that it is but the portal of Eternity. What was the measure of the dread disaster, what
:
292
of the
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

momentary death pang, when " brought
?
face
to face with eternal being "

It
be recalled that during a quarter of a century work Forbes Julian had seen life in many lands, having visited the United States six times and Canada and South Africa each four times. He had been once to Mexico and once to the West Indies, besides making an extensive tour in Eastern Europe. With regard to the numerous long land journeys taken in South and Central Africa, and in frequently crossing the continent of North America, it is calculated that he had travelled by land and sea considerably over a hundred thousand miles equal, roughly speaking, to four times the circumference of the globe. Thus he was equally familiar with ocean and lake, with snowy mountain and southern sky. Ever modest as to his own achievements, he seldom spoke about himself and scarcely ever about his journeys. The well-remembered tropical scenery of South Africa and California, the great lakes and forests of Canada, the unique architectural remains of ancient Mexico, the solemn stillness of the ocean, the peace of great wildernesses on the prairie and the veld these things were not dwelt on to others. Less travelled friends in England were therefore never afraid of hearing long-winded narratives prefaced with " When I was in such and such a place." The foreign acquaintance made abroad, who frequently supposed that British people travelled so much because they had no inducement to stay at home, were not contradicted. Without sacrificing his own point of view, he was able to make due allowance not only for other people's -opinions but for much that was prejudiced or distorted in their conception of British life and thought. A peacemaker in every quarrel, he never suspected his own influence
of active
may
FOUNDERING OF THE 1:HANIC

for good.
293
There seemed about him ever an atmosphere He was invariably of humanity and kindly feeling. sympathetic and interested in others. *' I do not think he had an enemy in the world. I never heard him say an unkind word of anyone, and he put the best construction on everything," remarked a barrister who had known him for years. In his travels he threw himself heartily into the customs of the countries visited, thus making friends and he had that special mark of all along the route a fine nature, that no outward circumstances made the slightest difference to his demeanour.
;
was blessed with strong affections, warm and congenial family surroundings, amongst " the friends given by Nature," as the French describe The cordial relations subsisting with his scientific it. colleagues, the sincere affection between him and his
His
life
friendships,
relatives,
and the confidence and respect shown by
his
servants continued until the end. In his dealings with his fellow-men he was invariably
He had the considerate to the poor as well as the rich. of being a good listener, following with attention the point of view of others, never laying down the law, engrossing the conversation, or correcting Concerning his those whom he thought mistaken. uprightness of character, one of the friends who knew him best wrote " No one ever thought of questioning either his word or his motive." Being in the full vigour of manhood when death closed his career, it was felt that much valuable
social gift
:
work might have been accomplished had his been spared but this was not to be. In the fullness of his powers and activity the call came, and with many men on the Titanic he gave up his life quite simply to save the weak. He might have escaped as did other male passengers, but, in the words
scientific
life
;
294
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

he " died
like
of the ship's second officer,
man."
duty in the solemnity of that awful hour. " I think it was the death he would have chosen," wrote a Canadian friend who knew him well. It was surely a fitting end to an unselfish life to close it by rendering assistance to nor could they have helpless women and children found any champion more kindly and considerate. Passing much time in the free and irresponsible life of the mining districts of South Africa and North America amongst a mixed and motley cosmopolitan society, where gambling and speculation were common and old beliefs and restraints had frequently gone adrift, where many loose-living men were sinking in the mire and others walking in the dry places of a barren scepticism, whilst enthusiasms of all kinds had burnt low, he preserved his steady course, undisturbed and unaffected by the contagion of this environment. In the country his love of nature and quick susceptibility to all that was grand and beautiful in the world and the society of of sense kept him always happy friends made on his travels brightened the absences from home. Goodwill towards his fellow-men filled his heart and was shown in his genial smile. He had the look of concentrated thought, but his expression was kindly rather than keen or penetrating. He devoted himself wholeheartedly to metallurgical science, but had a strong love for human nature. Although during the changing scenes of his fifty years he knew many hardships, yet his life was happy and useful until his varied career drew to its solemn close, and the nobility of his death called forth universal respect and esteem.
so gloriously faithful to
; ;
Happy they who were
shared deeply in the many interests of his time, close attention to the broader aspects of political questions, but had little concern with party
He
and paid

FOUNDERING OF THE nfANIC
struggles,
all
295
the engrossing worE of his life being not political. Having the true pioneer spirit, every element in his natural character together with his early experiences combined to give this turn to his mind, which was innovating and original. He entered fully into the independent researches of science, and also into those issues of practical philanthropy which appeal so strongly to a thoughtful and sympathetic nature, taking a warm interest in the welfare of the people and in all wise schemes for their
scientific,
benefit.
As regards theological matters, he took the side of and comprehensive instead of precise and exclusive views. A Broad Churchman, concerned rather with conduct than with creed, never particularly
free
anxious to fit everything into a hard-and-fast system, he valued chiefly the essentials of religion zeal for truth, sympathy with man, love of God. A practical representation of Christianity had a charm for him greater than that felt for those more dogmatic systems in which so many minds find their chief comfort and support. He heartily appreciated the services of the Church, the beauty of sacred architecture, the power of solemn music. He sought faithfully to follow the way of uprightness and unselfishness in life, therefore he showed the hence the good true spirit of self-sacrifice in death work which he did and the good example that he left these remain, and blossom and bear fruit. A service held in his memory on April 29th at the
church of
St.
Mary Magdalene, Torquay, was
largely
attended, the officiating clergy being the Rev. E. P. Gregg (rector of the parish), the Ven. A. H. Simms (Archdeacon of Totnes), Prebendary Airy, and the Rev. F. W. Gedye. The musical portion of the service was finely rendered by the full choir, the three hymns
is o'er," " Rock of God, to Thee " being sung by the whole congregation. Although considerable doubt exists as to the last hymn having been played by the bandsmen of the Titanic after the catastrophe, it was certainly sung at the service held on board by the Rev. Edgar Carter not long before the collision. There were present at the memorial service many representatives of different shades of thought two Presbyterian divines, several Roman Catholics, a Unitarian minister, and members of various Free Churches. Sympathizing friends included the late Senator for New York State, the president and members of committee of the Torquay Natural History Society, many well-known naval and military officers, and several scientific friends. No tribute to his memory, no act of sympathy to his widow, were withheld. For them all she has no adequate words of gratitude. " The crowded church," wrote Prebendary Statham, who was present, " testified to the general sympathy." Alluding to the heroism shown on the Titanic, the Prebendary wrote
chosen " Now the labourer's task

Ages," and " Nearer, with much feeling
296
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

my
gave His only-begotten Son " is the story of the Gospel, and what God does Himself He expects His children to do. The words of the Saviour about His own self-sacrifice " Therefore doth Father " may be extended to life love Me, because I lay down all the human family. And the spirit of self-sacrifice is there ; overlaid it may be by the pride of wealth, by the cynicism of great intellect, by the rudeness and roughness of the life of toil ; it lies there a fire ready to be kindled into life by the " In the image of God made He fiery torch of calamity. man," and as there is sorrow " in the presence of the angels of God " when that image seems overlaid or lost, so, when it shines forth before the world " bringing many sons to glory," we feel sure that it is a moment of Divine joy.
so loved the
"
The God
essence of
all
divinity
lies
in sacrifice
and surrender.
world that
He
My
My
CHAPTER XXIV
SYMPATHY OF THEIR MAJESTIES THE KING AND
QUEEN.
APPRECIATION OF FRIENDS
widow was honoured
sympathy Majesty the King through Viscount Knollys, from which the following extract may be
receiving a letter expressing the
of His
SOON by
after the tragedy his
given
His Majesty sincerely sympathizes with you in your irreparable loss, and feels deeply for you and for all those to whom the loss of the Titanic has been the cause of such great sorrow. The King remembers very well his visit to your house at Torquay, and how much also he was interested in the geological
collections.
letter
She was also honoured by receiving the following from Buckingham Palace, conveying through Mr. Wallington the sympathy of Her Majesty the
:
Queen
Her Majesty feels very much for you in the irreparable loss which you have sustained. It must, however, be some consolation to you and your relatives to feel that your husband was amongst those who displayed such great heroism in sacrificing their lives to secure the safety of the women and
children.
also received,
Marlborough House was communicating the condolence of Her Majesty Queen Alexandra, through Sir H. Streatfeild, and expressing
gracious letter from
Her Majesty's
varied
life.
.
.
heartfelt
sympathy
in the terrible loss
you
have sustained and interest in your late husband's useful and

.
297
298
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

all
Friends and colleagues of

in deploring his death,
shades of opinion joined
and amongst the many victims of the dreadful disaster few can have been more sincerely mourned, as a few sentences from some of the many hundreds of letters received, containing affectionate tributes to his memory from men of
diverse views,
may
serve to illustrate.
The Bishop
He had in a
his
of Exeter
wrote
comparatively short life done much useful work, death leaves his country poorer in respect of its best I very much riches the mind and character of its sons. wish I could be with you on Monday (for the Memorial service), but I am imperatively called to London that day for work which needs my presence, and which I can neither miss nor postpone without serious inconvenience to others. I It was shall, however, be with you in thought and prayer. strange and pathetic his being on board the titanic. May you be joined together in the eternal Easter and the risen life in Christ ; and meanwhile, may God give you that comfort which He alone has to bestow.
and
The Bishop
of Crediton
Your good husband was indeed a true man, of exceptional powers and ability, and yielded up his life in most heroic spirit. He was diligent in acquiring knowledge of a high class, and in his present condition of life will have more powers to learn things divine as they come from the Hands of the Great Creator. We can think of him as pursuing the study of those
things which afforded
him
so
much
pleasure while in the flesh,
with an understanding illuminated in the nearer Presence of God. Your comfort will be in sharing in his joy, as you are able to while still here, and in looking forward to experiencing those deeper joys together in a painless, deathless, sinless
life.
Bishop Welldon
So useful a life, so noble a death, will be to you an everinspiring memory, but I dare not try to realize how great your
bereavement must be.
Pray
God
comfort you.
The Bishop
I
299
of Llandaif
was very grieved indeed to hear of your sad loss, and I am so sorry that I had not an opportunity of coming to see you, but I was called away from Torquay very suddenly on account
of serious illness.
Bishop Boyd Carpenter (who paid the widow a of consolation and wished to take part in the Memorial Service, but was prevented by absence) wrote
visit
:
am due
to preach in
I
London on Sunday and

it
to speak at
Derby on Monday.
think of you, and you
wish
had been otherwise.
We
shall
know
that our hearts are with you.

:
Bishop Ryle (Dean of Westminster)

Your dear husband
towards you.
so
!
The sympathy
give
of us
all
goes out
you strength, courage, and faith, that you may bravely endure this blow, and witness to the
May God
strength of belief among scientific people in the immortality of the soul and in our joyful reunion through Christ.
The Archdeacon
of
Totnes
Nothing can rob you of the power and influence of the time that you have passed with a man so highly endowed as and you have a solid your husband was with excellent gifts foundation for the Eternal Hope by which even now heavy sorrow may be overcome.
;
The
I
Rev. Prebendary Statham
am
husband's end.
enrolled.
sure you will be sustained by the courage of your " The Noble Army of Martyrs Praise Thee,"
and in that Noble
Army
:
it
is
good to have our dear ones
Sister of
Charity
If ever I should be in a like situation I would wish to be brave enough to give my life to save others rather than be saved myself. You have the great consolation of knowing that Mr. Julian acted thus bravely and unselfishly.
300
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

(a
:
Countess de Alcoy
member
of an old Spanish
Roman
is
Catholic family)
Believe me, dear friend, that the part I have in your sorrow greater than you can imagine ; not one moment are you out of my thoughts, and only God can give you strength. So good a husband, so kind a friend ; the loss seems almost too
much
grief for a
human
heart to bear.
The Rev. Dr. Townsend, past President of the Free Church Council, an eminent Methodist Minister
:
hope you will be able to think of him, not as being in the deep ocean, but as seeing the King in His beauty and being for ever safe from disaster and sorrow, and that God may fulfil to you the exceeding great and precious promises whereby we are made partakers
I
As to the dear one who has gone,
of the Divine nature.
Another Nonconformist
(a
Congregationalist)
nation sorrows with you, and the knowledge must have upbearing power, yet of the agony of your sudden bereavement none of us can do more than faintly dream. But you will rejoice for him, called first to the fellowship of the Redeemer's sufferings and then, we believe, so immediately entering into His joy.
A member
of the Society of Friends
I think great sorrow and great loss seem to bring the other world nearer to us and help us to draw closer to the Comforter who is promised to us all. What a time of heroism it was One can but feel that God's Holy Spirit must have been near to help and sustain them.
!
The
Rev.
A.
E. O'Connor,
Unitarian Minister,
sent a letter expressing

Grief and sincere sympathy in this great sorrow.
The
his wife,
Rev. N. Wallace, a Presbyterian divine, and wrote saying

:
We
night
were often remembering you during the last sad fortat our family altar and we sympathize most
.
deeply in the
301
loss of your dear husband under such tragic circumstances. Words of comfort fail us, but there is One who knows your sorrow, to whose pitifulness and tender
sympathy we most prayerfully commend you ^Jesus Christ, the same loving Saviour to-day as when He stood by the grave of Lazarus and gave the soul-inspiring message, " I am the Resurrection and the Life."
An
intimate friend
It may be some comfort to you to feel how greatly your dear husband was beloved and honoured, how everyone feels his passing hence was a noble ending to a brave, unselfish life that he would never have thought for one moment of his own safety, but have been the very first to step aside, sacrificing his chance for others, setting a shining example even in that company of heroes who went with him through the mighty testing to the welcome of their great Captain.
Another old friend wrote
Those who knew your husband are not likely to forget the kind and courteous gentleman, so learned and yet so unassuming, whom it was such a privilege to know. What fitter resting-place for one who delighted in Nature's wonders than the Great Deep.
Sir
I
Arthur Quiller Couch, the well-known novelist

know
that the foundering of the titanic had so I am sorry to the daughter of my old friend. indeed for you, although yours is a proud sorrow. It is clear and the knowledge of it helps us all that there were true men on board who, like your husband, died splendidly in the old pride of race. It is clear that the route always involves playing but even so the blow of the iceberg was a with risk peculiarly terrible one. It is equally clear to me that on the doomed ship an enormous proportion of the passengers behaved nobly, and I certainly believe that your husband was among
did not
struck
home
the noblest.
General Spragge
J
want to express
my
deep feeling of admiration
for
one
302
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

closed a
who
good
life
by
a noble, self-sacrificing death,
and
of
whom everyone who
bears the British

:
name must be proud.
General D'Aguilar Jackson
I must write to express our heartfelt sympathy with you. Yesterday in church, while the whole congregation were standing during the playing of the Funeral March, I felt exactly as if I were standing at a brother officer's grave, and that officer your dear husband.
Colonel Burn, Member for the Torquay Division, wrote from the House of Commons
:
Human sympathy
God may
of
sustain
is
of little avail
we
earnestly pray that

trial.
and comfort you in your great
Several letters were received from other Members both Houses of Parliament. The Right Honourable James Bryce, British Ambassador at Washington
;
the
had not heard of the great sorrow you have suffered by your husband on the Titanic^ and Mrs. Bryce and I desire to offer you our sincere condolence. We have only just returned from a long journey, and so did not know of it. I retain, I need not say, a very agreeable recollection both of the visit you and he paid to us here and also of the services
I
loss of
rendered to science.
The Hon. N. N. Stranahan
(formerly Senator for
New
We
York
feel
State)
much sympathy and
are so grieved to hear of your

disaster
great trouble in this dreadful
and tragedy, which
has bereft you of your husband.
Mr. Eden
I
Phillpotts, the
Devonian authoi
when
is
remember the
occasions in the past

It
it
was
my
privi-
lege to
know
little
to that my books sometimes brought the West country a nearer for him when he was far away from it.
a pleasure to
meet your brave husband.
me
Lady
I
303
Alice Leslie
want to write, for it came so very near us, as we had our nieces on board (Lady Rothes and Miss Gladys Cherry), who were both mercifully saved, and my heart bleeds for those who have lost relatives. Knowing how devoted you and Mr. Julian were, you must let me say how truly and deeply I feel for such an overwhelming sorrow as yours.
two
Admiral Acland
:
Sir
William and the Honourable
Lady
been thinking of you all through these terrible days. help and comfort you The men were brave and sacrificed their lives to save the weak, but it is terribly hard for those who are left behind.
We have
May God
The Honourable Helen
Cubitt
In the midst of the grief, you will feel your dear one is amongst the roll of his country's heroes, who will be mourned and honoured as long as England lasts.
Lady Olpherts
I have gone through these deep waters, but if we are with our Saviour, leaning on Him, we get strength and support and the comfort our loving Father can and will give.
Mrs. Thackeray
Can you think of the gain to him yet ? It seems as if that were the only comfort from the terrible loss to you and those who loved him. I feel sure his last act was to help others that was always his way. ... He came to tea on my last visit to town, and when I was saying how much I thought of you his face lighted up with his wonderful smile I am so thankful for even that last glimpse of him. To know a good man is to be helped heavenward. God help you now and ever,
; ;
dear.
Amongst
scientific friends his loss
The
late Sir
Robert
Ball,
was keenly felt. the distinguished astro-
304
nomer,
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

who had been
from two months' wrote from Cambridge Observatory
suffering
:
serious illness,
Please accept the profound sympathy of myself and my wife. Surely there never was any catastrophe that merited and received such world-wide sympathy as this. His was truly a
noble
life sacrificed.
Professor
and Mrs. Poult on,
of
Oxford
We
loss.
both
feel
very deeply for you in your terrible and tragic
Dr. and Mrs. Smith Woodward (Natural History Museum, South Kensington)
:
he gave deed will always live in the memories of those privileged with his acquaintance.
will find a ray of consolation in the fact that
his life for others,
You
and
in that noble
Professor and Mrs. Meldola
Your husband died, with many others, a hero's death. It must be a consolation to those bereaved that the names of
their loved ones will live for ever in the
memory
of
all
who
cherish brave deeds.
Professor Sir E. A. Schafer, of Edinburgh, President of the British Association

I
:
in the grievous calamity consolatory reflection is that your husband's death was a noble one.
sincerest
tender you
my
sympathy
that has befallen you.
The one
Sir
Archibald Geikie, the President of the Royal

:
Society
The newspaper
gives
me
the
first
intimation of the staggering
blow that has fallen upon you. I hasten to offer my heartfelt sympathy and to express my earnest hope that you will be enabled to bear up under the shock of such a tragedy. It is almost an intrusion upon the sacredness of your sorrow to venture to write to you at this time, but the sympathy of your friends may bring you some little comfort, and in that hope I send you these few lines.
Sir
I
305
Henry Roscoe
sympathize with you deeply in the terrible loss you have and am interested to remember that your talented husband was an old pupil of mine, and that he was*good enough
sustained,
to say that
had influenced
his career.
Professor
and Mrs. Myres,
of
Oxford
may
We
Sir
If
pray that the
God
of
all
comfort
be very near you
in this time of spiritual need.
Anderson Critchett
trouble
anything can bring a measure of comfort in such a deep it is the knowledge that your dear one died the death
of a hero, and has left a glorious example to generations yet to come ; but the loss of such a man must indeed be hard to
bear.
Lady Flower
I
warm sympathy
the time to pass without trying to express the I feel with you, dear Hester, in the loss of your dear husband. You have the comfort of knowing he died nobly, whilst you can look forward to meeting him again in the great Future Life, as I experienced so deeply with my own dear husband.
do not
like
Sir
William and Lady Crookes
Your sad bereavement has only just come to our notice. It was a national assure you of our deep sympathy. calamity. It is some consolation to know how bravely our fellow-countrymen gave up their lives to save the women.
We
Mr. Edgar Rickard, Manager

zine
I
of the
Mining Maga-
have known him for a number of years, but only recently has. it been my good fortune to see him almost daily, and I feel the better for the inspiration and good he imbued in everyone who came in contact with him.
Mr, Humphreys
I
know
that you will be brave,
and proud of the
fact that
3o6
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
in sacrificing his life for the women and children he died a hero. There are few who are regarded with such affection and esteem amongst their fellow-men as he was, and his loss is keenly and widely felt. The metallurgical engineers of the
world have
lost a brilliant, yet
most modest, comrade.
Mr. G.
S.
Simpson
To know him
Long
was to esteem and love him.

:
Mr. Pollard Digby

It
before I ever met him his name was familiar to me. was a pleasure and privilege to have as a courteous friend one whom I had before esteemed as the possessor of a brilliant reputation. Added to these recollections we have now the memory of him as a sharer in the heroism of those who died on the titanic and shared in the glorious example of chivalrous
duty.
Writing from Cambridge,

great physicist, said
I offer
:
Sir J. J.
Thomson, the
sustained
most sincere sympathy in the loss you have words seem almost a mockery. It must, however, be a great consolation to you to know that of all the ways in which death can come, none is so noble aS
you
my
z loss so great that
when
it
does so in helping to save the lives of others. also
Lady Thomson
wrote
We never knew until to-day that one of our friends was among the number of those noble lives whose unselfishness
of the world.
and calmness in death have evoked the undying admiration Their memory will never be forgotten. And terrible as the sacrifice of life has been, you will know, even
in the midst of sorrow, that such a sacrifice goes far to ennoble the nation which can claim such heroes as its own.
Many
from
in
fort
appreciative communications were

;
scientists in various parts of
France and Italy

;
German
received the world savants engineers of Frank;
and Berlin metallurgists in Canada, Mexico, and the United States ; mining men from South
Africa
lands.
;
307
and other
friends widely separated in distant
Mr. Anderberg, Stockholm
Personally I mourn in Mr. Julian a very good friend for whom I had the greatest regard, both on account of his geniality and his kindness. There were certainly none of my English
friends that I felt
more honoured
:
in knowing.
Herr Crohn, Berlin
Who can console you in this time of sorrow ? dear friend, Mr. Julian, said that ever since the first day of his marriage he had been a perfectly happy man. And you will think of this when you bow to the Creator's will.
.
My
Mr. Leonard, the Canadian mining authority, wrote from Ontario I was much impressed by the remarkable knowledge possessed by Mr. Julian, more particularly in cyaniding, in which par:
ticular
will
he was recognized as a world-wide authority. The whole mining world has suffered the loss of a man whose place
it
be
difficult to
fill.
Dr. Synnott, of
I
abilities.
New Jersey
formed the highest opinion of Mr.
Julian's character
and
Mr. C.
The
in their
B.
McCormick,
of Chicago
brave Titanic
men who went down

Boston
manhood and courage

Carroll, of
are for ever a glory to England and America.

:
Mr. and Mrs.
We were indeed shocked to hear that Mr. Julian was a victim of the ill-fated Titanic. His loss to the scientific world will be very great indeed, and also to his friends far and wide.
A friend from Australia sent the following expression

of appreciation
:
Your great consolation must be that your beloved one met a hero's death, that he is one of the company of noble men
3o8
HENRY FORBES JULIAN
whose courage and

in British history
self-sacrifice
have made them immortal
in the world's history, indeed.
distinguished Englishman who had spent many years in Japan also sent words of truest sympathy and sorrow. An Anglo-Indian friend
:
Words seem
rending sorrow
utterly inadequate at such a time of heartyour dear husband gave up his life in the
" Greater love hath no noblest spirit. man lay down his life for his friends." a
man than
this,
that
Writing from the Transvaal, Mr. Edgar Smart said

a
I venture, as one of your husband's oldest friends, to send few words to let you know how much we sympathize with you in your sorrow. Mr. Julian's name as one of the missing passengers was cabled to Johannesburg some time ago, but I have been hoping against hope that there might be some mistake. There is this consolation, that Mr. Julian was one
of the heroes
who
chose the better part to give safety to the
women and
children.
Mr. Rintoul, of Turflontein, South Africa, alluded to him as " one who was taken away from his many friends and admirers at such an early stage." Mr. Livingstone Sulman wrote
I
first
:
have known your husband for many years, and from the in the Transvaal regarded him with the highest admiration. Of late years we had seen much of him, and both my partner and myself fell under the spell of his quiet magnetism. I cannot, therefore, express the shock that the terrible news of your husband's loss brought with it for us. The only comfort we can offer is our certain knowledge that Death, among the thousand heroes of the titanic, found none more calmly strong nor more resolutely ready. I think of him as inspiring those about him with his own unconscious nobility and preparedness, and quietly repelling any fleeting panic in those around him. Death had no terrors for him, and he must have eased the passage across the dark water for many.
. .
'
309
Sympathizing letters were
also received
from Captain
rescuing ship the Carfathia, and three of the survivors of the titanic the Countess of Rothes, Miss Gladys Cherry, and Mr. Lightoller, the second officer, Vi^ho vi^rote : " Your husband died like a man." Numerous touching tributes poured in from vôrking people and others in humble vâlks of life. " We all knew that Mr. Julian would not go in the boats when there was not room to take everybody," said a cabman who had frequently driven him from Torquay Station. Similar testimony was borne by several of his old servants, and others who had worked for him at " He died a brave hero in the sight different times.
Rostron,
commander
of the
of
God and man,"

That
his
wrote one of them.
name was thus held in affectionate remembrance by so many of those who had served him, and
that he had secured such a high place in their regard, Their is not the least that can be said in his praise. letters bear abundant testimony to his kindness and private virtues, forming a remarkable record of sympathy from the poor as well as the rich. Commenting on this, his friend Sir William White
wrote
sincerely we all sympathize with you and it is good to know that that sympathy is so widespread and embraces all classes, from their Majesties the King and Queen down to the humblest of those to whom you and your husband were known.
You
will
know how
in your great loss,
Some months after the tragedy occurred a Committee was formed with the object of providing a lasting tribute to his memory in the Church of St. Mary Magdalene, Torquay, where his marriage had been solemnized, and where also the largely attended
memorial service had been held.
310
HENRY FORBES JULIAN

;
The Committee consisted of the following members

Admiral Sir William Acland, C.V.O. the Hon. Lady Acland Maxwell Adams, Esq., Hon. Sec. Devon Association ; Sir Robert Ball, LL.D., F.R.S. ; Rev. J. O. Bevan, M.A., F.S.A., F.G.S. ; Captain Brine ; the Hon. Helen Cubitt ; Mrs. Hamilton Cumming ; Miss M. M. Candy Miss A. V. Dutton ; Rev. E. P. Gregg, M.A. Dr. F. H. Gervis Rev. W. W. Goldsworthy, M.A. Dr. Harley Gough ; Miss M. Gray Miss Alice Heath General D'Aguilar Jackson Major MacMahon, LL.D., F.R.S. ; Professor Myres (Oxford) H. L. Sulman, Esq., F.LC, M.LM.M. ; Hon. N. N. Stranahan (Ex-Senator U.S.A.); Sir J. J. Thomson, O.M., F.R.S. (Cambridge) ; W. Whitaker, Esq., F.R.S., F.G.S. ; A. W.
; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ;
Wilkinson, Esq.
mittee, wrote to the
Mr. Livingstone Sulman, a member of the Comwidow in the following terms

:
Just as the most enduring claim to the enthusiastic regard of our later generations has been to have been one of " the noble Six Hundred," or to have stood in the red line on the deck of the Birkenhead, so it is wished to commemorate your " dear husband's participation in the " Communion of heroism
of that glorious
company on the
called forth the admiration of the
Titanic, whose self-denial whole world.
The
opposite page shows the inscription for the
Memorial which was contributed by another member of the Committee, the Rev. J. O. Bevan, with the
assistance of Bishop It
Boyd Carpenter.
was unveiled by the Ven. Archdeacon Simms on February 24th, 1914, in the presence of a large
congregation.
Ad Majorem Dei
Gloriam
THIS TABLET
IS
ERECTED BY A WIDE CIRCLE OF FRIENDS

IN AFFECTIONATE
REMEMBRANCE
OF
HENRY FORBES JULlAN

Member
of the Institution of
Mining and Metallurgy,

;
Born Ascension Day, 9th May, i86i

Married in
this
Church 30th October, 1902 Passed away 15th April, I912,

his
During the whole of

at
working
life
h^ laboured
the
solution
of
metallurgical
problems in
three Continents, and both by his writings and

practical
skill
exercised an influence which will
long endure.
He
was amongst those

This
who
gaVe their
lives for
others in the disaster which befell the R.M.S.
and self-denial called from the throne to the cottage. forth admiration
titanic.
heroism
**
Greater love hath no
man than
this,
that a
man
lay
down
his life for his friends."
J9J92
Julian, Hester (Pengelly) Memorials of Henry Forbes Julian
PLEASE
SLIPS
DO NOT REMOVE FROM THIS POCKET
UNIVERSITY OF
TORONTO
LIBRARY

Memorials of Henry Forbes Julian (Hester Julian, 1914)

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Memorials of Henry Forbes Julian (Hester Julian, 1914)

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JiiiliiniSi

The Royal Ontario Museim

Trade on terms which

not allow of Discount

HENRY FORBES JULIAN

CHARLES GRIFFIN &

CYANIDING GOLD & SILVER ORES

and Construction of Plant and Costs

Civil and Metallurgical Engineer

SOME PRESS OPINIONS

CHARLES GRIFFIN &

CO. Ltd., Exeter Street, Strand

MEMORIALS HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Ipetis&eD in tbe ''Citanic'' Disaster

WRITTEN AND EDITED BY HIS WIFE

WITH INTRODUCTORY NOTICES BY

M.A., F.G.S., F.S.A.

LATE PRESIDENT OF THE INSTITUTION OF MINING AND METALLURGY

WITH PORTRAIT AND PLATES

THE BALLANTYNE PRESS LONDON

THOSE BRAVE MEN ON THE TITANIC

WOMEN AND CHILDREN

which death can come, none

Extract from a letter of Sir

on the death of Henry Forbes Julian.

IN prompted by her own

compiling this memorial the writer has not been

she yielded to the suggestions of friends,

his affectionate disposition

has been thought desirable to include

writer has entered

In respect of Henry Forbes Julian, his

Redholme, Torquay. March 1914.

HENRY FORBES JULIAN " I. BY THE REV. J. O. BEVAN n. BY H. L. SULMAN

ENGLAND AND ITALY

PUBLICATION OF WORK ON CYANIDING HOME LIFE AT TORQUAY AND TRAVELS

SOUTH AFRICA THE UNITED STATES REVISITED MEXICO MEXICO (continued)

FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS THE ATLANTIC

"HENRY FORBES JULIAN"

Redholme, Torquay, and some

HENRY FORBES JULIAN

which Mr. Julian possessed

His wife shared his

panied him in his travels in

and frequently accomAmerica, South Africa,

The last time I saw Forbes Julian was on March

he had attended at the

HENRY FORBES JULIAN "

would probably accord to the novel by the distinguished physicist. He

HENRY FORBES JULIAN

and philosophic insight an incomparable companion and

ChILLENDEN fe.ECTORY, Canterbury.

HENRY FORBES JULIAN

LATE President of the Institution of

FIRST met Henry

indeed already made Johannesburg the Mecca of the

HENRY FORBES JULIAN

saw him but

that of Forbes Julian was of long-proved