Plastering, Pointing and Interior Finishing

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 Plastering:

Plastering is the age-old practice of applying a thin layer of material to walls, ceilings, and
other surfaces to create a smooth, protective, and decorative finish. It's been used for
centuries in construction and has evolved over time with different materials and techniques .
 Requirements of good plaster:
 It should adhere to the background, and should remain adhered during all variations in
seasons and other atmospheric conditions.
 It should be possible to apply it during all weather conditions.
 It should be hard and durable.
 It should possess good workability.
 It should be cost efficient.
 It should effectively check penetration of moisture.
 Objective of Plastering:
1. Smoothing and leveling:
 Plastering conceals unevenness, gaps, and imperfections in the underlying substrate, such as
brickwork, concrete, or stone. This creates a smooth, level surface that is ideal for painting,
wallpapering, or other decorative finishes.
 Brick wall with plaster

2. Protection and durability:


 A well-applied plaster layer acts as a protective barrier, shielding the underlying structure
from moisture, weather, and other environmental factors that can cause damage. This extends
the lifespan of the building and reduces the need for repairs.
 Plaster protecting a brick wall from rain

3. Aesthetic enhancement:
 Plaster offers a wide range of decorative possibilities, with various textures, colors, and
finishes available. This allows for creative expression and customization of the interior and
exterior spaces.
 Textured plaster finish

4. Soundproofing and insulation:


 Plaster can contribute to soundproofing by absorbing and dampening sound waves. It can
also provide some thermal insulation, helping to regulate indoor temperatures and improve
energy efficiency.
5. Fire resistance:
 Certain types of plaster, such as fire-rated plasterboard, can offer some degree of fire
resistance, slowing the spread of flames and providing valuable time for occupants to
evacuate in the event of a fire.
 In addition to these core objectives, plastering can also:
 Conceal electrical wiring and plumbing pipes.
 Provide a suitable base for the installation of tiles or other finishes.
 Improve the overall air quality in a building by reducing dust and allergens.
 Overall, plastering is a versatile and valuable technique that plays a crucial role in the
construction and finishing of buildings.
 Classification of Plastering:
Various Types of Plasters are:

1. Cement Plaster:
Cement plaster stands as the most prevalent form of plaster used in the construction
industry. It comprises a blend of cement, sand, and an appropriate quantity of water. The
proportions of cement and sand may vary, but the typical ratios of 1:3 and 1:4 yield
optimal results. Cement plaster finds application on both interior and exterior walls,
ceilings, and various architectural elements. A single plaster coat is usually sufficient for
interior walls, while exterior walls may require additional coats depending on thickness
and surface characteristics. The thickness of cement plaster typically ranges between 12
and 20 millimetres, tailored to the specific surface type. Adequate curing with water for a
minimum of seven days is essential to prevent the development of cracks on the plastered
surface.
Figure: Cement Plaster
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2. Lime Plaster:
Lime plaster is composed of lime, sand, and water, with equal proportions of lime and
sand, occasionally augmented with a small amount of cement to enhance plaster strength.
Fatty lime is predominantly used in lime plaster to avoid blistering on the plastered surface,
while the addition of fragrant gum, known as Gulal, at a rate of approximately 1.6 kg/m3 of
mortar, enhances the mortar's binding properties. Chopped hemp, at about 1 kg/m3 of mortar,
can also be incorporated to improve adhesive and tensile qualities. However, cement plaster
is increasingly replacing lime plaster due to its benefits.
Figure:Lime plaster
Source:http://www.shutterstock.com
3.Mud Plaster:
Mud plaster represents the most cost-effective plastering option, consisting of well-balanced
proportions of clay and sand. The clay used should be free from impurities such as grass,
roots, organic matter, or stone pebbles. To strengthen the mixture, chopped straw, hay, or
hemp is added at a rate of 30 kg/m3 of earth content. Mud plaster primarily finds use in rural
areas and temporary construction projects.

Figure:Mud Plaster
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4.Stucco Plaster:
Stucco plaster is a type of exterior wall coating made from a mixture of sand, Portland
cement, lime, and water. It is a durable and versatile material that can be used to create a
variety of finishes, from smooth and polished to textured and rustic.
Stucco plaster is most commonly used on exterior walls, but it can also be used on interior
walls and ceilings. It is a good choice for areas that are exposed to the elements, such as
porches, patios, and sunrooms. Stucco plaster is also fire-resistant and can help to insulate
your home.
There are two main types of stucco plaster: traditional and modern.
Traditional stucco plaster is made from a mixture of lime, sand, and water. It is a more
breathable material than modern stucco, but it is also more susceptible to cracking and
damage.

Figure:Traditional Stucco Plaster


Source:http://www.indiamart.com

Modern stucco plaster is made from a mixture of Portland cement, sand, and water. It is more
durable than traditional stucco, but it is also less breathable .
Figure:Modern Stucco Plaster
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5 Waterproof Plaster:
Water proof plaster is a type of plaster protects the masonry wall from ingress of moisture
and thereby eliminating or reducing dampness of the wall.
The mortar for waterproof plaster is prepared by mixing cement, sand (1:2), and pulverized
alum at the rate of about 12 kg/m3 of sand content. Water to be used in the mix is not normal
water but the water is prepared
Figure:Water proof plastering

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 Special Materials Used in Plastering:


1. Plaster Of Paris:
It is also known as calcium sulfate plaster and obtained by heating gypsum. When water is
added to the plaster of paris it forms a plastic mass, which sets quickly.
Plaster of paris adheres well to gypsum, wood, metal lath, masonry or other plastering surfaces.
The setting time of the plaster of Paris can be controlled by the addition of certain salts.It is
mostly used in combination with ordinary lime for making good small defect in plastered
surfaces. Since gypsum is slightly soluble in water, plaster of paris is not used for external works.
Figure:Plaster of Paris
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2. Keene’s Cement:
This is hardest and densest form of gypsum plaster. It is obtained by a calcining selected form of
gypsum. It is pure white in color and takes a high glass-like polish. It is used for highly decorative
plastering work and ornamental work. It is used alone for an extra hard finish or it is mixed with
lime putty for a medium-hard.

This is essentially made from barium sulfate and is applied in the form of the final coat to serve
as protection around X-ray rooms.
Figure:Keene’s Cement
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3.Barium Plaster:

Barium plaster has limited applications in traditional civil engineering, which focuses on the
design, construction, and maintenance of physical structures. Its primary use lies in the medical
field, specifically within X-ray rooms and other areas utilizing X-ray technology.
Figure:Baruim Plaster
Source:www.wordpress.com

4. Acoustical Plaster:
This is a gypsum mixture, which is employed as a final coat to serve the purpose of a sound-
repellent finish. The minute passages in the form of tiny openings in the plaster coat, absorb
sound.
The plaster is usually applied in two coats, each 6 mm in thickness. The surface must be finished
uniformly in a manner that promotes porosity. Wooden floats preferred to a steel trowel in
finishing.
Figure :Acoustical Plaster
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 Preparation of Surface for Plastering


1.Keep all the mortar joints of wall rough, so as to give a good bonding to hold plaster.
Roughen the entire wall to be plastered.
2.Clean all the joints and surfaces of the wall with a wire brush, there should be no oil or grease
etc. left on wall surface.
3.If there exist any cavities or holes on the surface, then fill it in advance with appropriate
material.
4.If the surface is smooth or the wall to be plastered is old one, then rake out the mortar joint to a
depth of at least 12 mm to give a better bonding to the plaster.
5.Wash the mortar joints and entire wall to be plastered, and keep it wet for at least 6 hours
before applying cement plaster.
6.If the projection on the wall surface is more than 12 mm, then knock it off, so as to obtain a
uniform surface of wall. This will reduce the consumption of plaster.

 Groundwork for Plaster


1.In order to get uniform thickness of plastering throughout the wall surface, first fix dots on the
wall. A dot means patch of plaster of size 15 mm * 15 mm and having thickness of about 10 mm.
2.Dots are fixed on the wall first horizontally and then vertically at a distance of about 2 meters
covering the entire wall surface.
3.Check the verticality of dots, one over the other, by means of plumb-bob.
4.After fixing dots, the vertical strips of plaster, known as screeds, are formed in between the
dots. These screeds serve as the gauges for maintaining even thickness of plastering being
applied.
Mixing of cement and sand for plastering work.

Fig 2: Mixing of cement and sand for plastering work.


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3. Applying Under Coat or Base Coat


1. In case of brick masonry the thickness of first coat plaster is in general 12 mm and in case
of concrete masonry this thickness varies from 9 to 15 mm.
2. The ratio of cement and sand for first coat plaster varies from 1:3 to 1:6.
3. Apply the first coat of plaster between the spaces formed by the screeds on the wall
surface. This is done by means of trowel.
4. Level the surface by means of flat wooden floats and wooden straight edges.
5. After leveling, left the first coat to set but not to dry and then roughen it with a scratching
tool to form a key to the second coat of plaster.
Fig 3: Applying of base coat of plastering for brick masonry
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4. Applying Finishing Coat


1. The thickness of second coat or finishing coat may vary between 2 to 3 mm.
2. The ratio of cement and sand for second coat plaster varies from 1:4 to 1:6.
3. Before applying the second coat, damp the first coat evenly.
4. Apply the finishing coat with wooden floats to a true even surface and using a steel
trowel, give it a finishing touch.
5. As far as possible, the finishing coat should be applied starting from top towards bottom
and completed in one operation to eliminate joining marks.
Fig 4: Applying of Finishing coat of plastering work
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5. Curing of Plastering works


1. After completion of the plastering work, it is kept wet by sprinkling water for at least 7
days in order to develop strength and hardness.
2. Use of gunny bags or other materials is used to keep the plastering works wet in external
works.
3. Improper curing may lead to cracks formation or efflorescence in plaster work.

Care be taken after Completion of Plaster Work


1.Cleaning of doors or frame and floor area is necessary at the completion of work.
2.Curing should be started as soon as the plaster has hardened sufficiently and must be cured
for at least 7 days.
3.Curing shall commence, 24 hours after the plaster is laid.

Defects in Plaster
The primary defects appear in plastering are discussed below:

• Unevenness on Plastered Surface


This defect is purely due to unskilled workers.

Figure:Unevenness Surface
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• Plaster Debonding
Debonding occurs when plaster is separated from the wall. It can be caused by
an excessively thick plaster layer, inadequate substrate preparation or may be due to a dusty,
oily or dry substrate.

Figure:Plaster Debonding
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• Cracks in Plastering
There can be various reasons that lead to cracking on the plastered surface, and it's
difficult to identify hairline cracks until they grow wider. The cracks can be formed due to
thermal expansion or rapid drying, movements in the background or in the plaster itself,
improper preparation of the old surface, poor workmanship or due to excessive shrinkage of
the plaster which occurs when the coat is too thick.

Figure:Cracks in Plastering
Source:marmostucco.com

• Rust stains on Plastered Surface


This type of defect may be seen on the plastered surfaces applied on metal laths.

• Efflorescence
Efflorescence is a whitish crystalline substance on the surface of a wall. This appearance
is due to the unburnt salt present in lime, cement, brick, sand and salt in water. When the wall
dries out, the soluble salts absorb moisture from the atmosphere through the pores and get
deposited in patches in the form of white crystalline patches. These patches disappear in wet
climates and reappear in dry climates. It can be managed to some extent by repeated dry
brushing and washing.

Figure:Efflorescence
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• Blistering
This defect is due to late slaking of the lime particles in the plaster. It appears
as swellings in the form of small patches of the plastered surface.

Figure:Blistering
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• Grinning
Grinning is the appearance of the mortar joints or similar breaks in the continuity of the
surface characteristics of the background. Applying undercoat before plastering may help
prevent grinning.

Figure: Grinning
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• Flaking and Peeling
Small loose masses are formed on plastered surfaces due to failure of bonding between
the coats, known as flaking. If a small portion comes off the surface and a patch is formed,
known as peeling.

Figure: Flaking and Peeling


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• Crazing
The development of fine hair cracks on the surface of the wall is known as crazing.
• Popping
Popping is the formation of conical holes in the plastered surface due to the presence of
some materials such as seeds, dead burnt lime etc. which expands on the setting.

Precautions to be taken while plastering


 Ensure proper bonding between the surface of masonry and plaster.
 All loose material sticking to the masonry should be removed before plastering.
 Mortar joints in the masonry should be raked, and the areas that need to be plastered
should be washed and kept wet.
 The joints should be cleaned by brushing or scrapping with wire brushes.
 The uniform level is tested with plumb-bob before filling the portions between the
screeds.
 Specified cement, sand ratio should be used while making cement mortar.
 The mortar applied is premed hard using wooden floats.
Plastering should be done on well prepared dry surfaces that are suitable for recovering
plaster. Skilled workers and good quality material should be used to avoid these defects.

Pointing:
Pointing is the finishing of mortar joints in brick or stone masonry construction. In exposed
masonry, joints are considered to be the weakest and most vulnerable spots from which
rainwater or dampness can enter.
Mortar for Pointing Work
1. Lime mortar of 1:2 ( 1 fat lime : 2 sand or surkhi)
2. Cement mortar of 1:3 ( 1 cement : 3 sand)

Preparation of Surface for Pointing


All the joints in masonry are raked down to a depth of 20mm while the mortar is still soft.
The joints and surface are cleaned and then thoroughly wetted.

Methods of Pointing
After preparing the surface as mentioned above, mortar is carefully placed in joints using a
small trowel. The placed mortar should be of desired shape. Whenever the fresh mortar is
placed in the joints it should be pressed hardly to gain strong bond with old interior mortar.
Care should be taken while using ashlar or 1st class brick work otherwise the mortar does
not cover the face edges. The pointed surface is kept wet for at least a week or till it sets after
application.

Types of Pointing
1. Flush Pointing
In this type, mortar is pressed hard in the raked joints and by finishing off flush with the edge
of masonry units. The edges are neatly trimmed with trowel and straight edge. It does not
give good appearance. But, flush pointing is more durable because of resisting the provision
of space for dust, water etc., due to this reason, this method is extensively used.

Figure: Flush Pointing


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2. Recessed Pointing
In this case, mortar is pressing back by 5mm or more from the edges. During placing of
mortar the face of the pointing is kept vertical, by a suitable tool. This type gives very good
appearance.

Figure: Recessed Pointing


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3. Beaded Pointing
It is formed by a steel or ironed with a concave edge. It gives good appearance, but it will
damage easily when compared to other types.
Figure: Beaded Pointing
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4. Struck Pointing
This is a modification of flush pointing in which the face the pointing is kept inclined, with its
upper edge pressed inside the face by 10mm which drains water easily.

Figure: Struck Pointing


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5. Rubbed, Keyed or Grooved Pointing


This is also a modification of flush pointing in which groove is formed at its mid height, by a
pointing tool. It gives good appearance.
Figure: Grooved Pointing
Source: http://www.theconstructor.com

6. Tuck Pointing
In this case mortar is pressed in the raked joint first and finishing flush with the face.
While the pressed mortar is green, groove or narrow channel is cut in the center of groove
which is having 5mm width and 3mm depth. This groove is then filled with white cement
putty, kept projecting beyond the face of the joint by 3 mm. if projection is done in mortar, it
is called bastard pointing or half tuck pointing.

Figure: Tuck Pointing


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7. V- Pointing
This is formed by forming V-groove in the flush-finishing face.

Figure: V- Pointing
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8. Weathered Pointing
This is made by making a projection in the form of V-shape.
Figure: Weathered Pointing
Source:

Colour Washing:
Color washing is a process of applying to building materials prepared by adding coloring
pigment to the screened whitewash. Generally, yellow earth, red ocher, and blue vitriol are
widely used pigments. Before mixing these color pigments, they must be crushed and made
into powder.

Materials Used For Whitewashing And Color Washing


1.Lime – Lime used for whitewashing shall be freshly burnt class C lime (fat lime ) and
white.
2.Water- Water must be clear and free from all organic and suspended impurities. Potable
water is most suitable for this purpose.
3.Yellow and Red-Ochre- The solid lump shall be crushed to powder.
4.Blue Vitriol – Fresh crystals of hydrous copper sulfate (blue vitriol ) shall be grounded to a
fine powder.
5.Gum or Glue
6.Sodium Chloride
7.Ultramarine Blue or Indigo
8.Pigments

Distempers:
In construction, distemper refers to a water-based paint traditionally used for interior walls
and ceilings. It's made by mixing:
1.Chalk powder
2.Pigments (to add color)
3.Water
Sometimes, additional binders like animal glue or casein (a milk protein) were included for
increased durability.

Here are some key characteristics of distemper in


construction:
1’Low cost: Compared to other paints like oil-based ones, distemper is significantly cheaper.
2.Breathable: The porous nature of distemper allows moisture to pass through, which is
beneficial for new walls as it helps them dry out without damaging the paint film.
3.Light-reflective: Distemper paints typically have a light and reflective finish, making them
suitable for brightening up living spaces.
4.Limited durability: Distemper is not as durable as other paints and is prone to cracking,
flaking, and water damage.
5.Not washable: Unlike modern paints, distemper cannot be easily washed.
Due to its limitations, distemper has largely been superseded by modern paints like acrylic
or latex paints, which offer better durability, washability, and a wider variety of colors.
However, distemper is still sometimes used in historical restoration projects to maintain the
original character of a building.

Question-Answer
1.Do I need to remove old plaster before plastering?
Answer: Whether I need to remove old plaster before applying new plaster depends on the
condition of the existing plaster:

Leave the old plaster:


Generally sound: If the old plaster is well-bonded to the underlying surface, free of cracks,
and shows no signs of dampness, I can usually leave it in place and simply skim it. Skimming
involves applying a thin layer of new plaster to achieve a smooth finish. This is generally the
easier and cheaper option.

Remove the old plaster:


Severely damaged: If the old plaster is cracked, bulging, loose, or unsound, it's best to
remove it completely before applying new plaster. This is also necessary if there's evidence of
dampness behind the plaster, as new plaster won't adhere properly to a damp surface.
Incompatible materials: If the existing plaster is made of a different material than the new
plaster I plan to use, they might not be compatible, requiring removal of the old layer.
To see the condition of the plaster the decision will be taken.

2 .Can you plaster over paint? (Answer it as yes


condition)
Answer: Plastering over paint is possible in most cases, but proper preparation is crucial for
a successful and long-lasting result.
Yes, I can plaster over paint if:
1.The paint is in good condition: This means it's well-adhered, not peeling, flaking, or
cracking.
2.The paint is compatible with the plaster:Both the plaster and paint will bond properly

3.what’s the difference between plastering and


skimming?
Answer: Plastering and skimming are both techniques used in finishing interior walls, but
they serve different purposes.These are:
Plastering involves applying a layer of plaster over brickwork, blockwork, or concrete, and
it's typically used to create a smooth, even surface on rough walls. This process is often used
during construction or renovation to prepare walls for painting or wallpapering.
Skimming, on the other hand, is a specific type of plastering that involves applying a thin
layer of finishing plaster over an existing wall that's in good condition but has some
imperfections. Skimming is used to create a smooth, flawless surface for painting or other
decorative finishes.
In summary, while plastering is a more general term for applying plaster to walls, skimming
refers specifically to the process of applying a thin layer of finishing plaster to achieve a
smooth surface.

4.what is the difference between plastering and


rendering?
Answer: Plastering and rendering, although similar processes, have distinct differences in
their purpose, application, and material composition:

Location:
Plastering: Done on interior walls and ceilings.
Rendering: Applied to exterior walls.

Purpose:

Plastering: Creates a smooth, finished surface for painting or other decorative finishes.
Rendering: Provides protection from weather elements like rain, wind, and sun, while also
enhancing the building's aesthetics and offering additional benefits like insulation,
waterproofing, and fireproofing.

Material:

Plaster: Generally uses less cement and finer sand for a smoother finish. May also include
lime or gypsum.
Render: Contains a higher proportion of cement for strength and durability, along with
coarser sand for better grip on the exterior surface.It can also include additives like
polymers for enhanced properties.

Appearance:

Plaster: Smooth and level, ready for paint.


Render:It can be smooth, textured, or even colored to achieve different aesthetic effects.
In essence, plastering prioritizes a smooth, decorative finish for interior spaces, while
rendering focuses on protecting and enhancing the exterior of a building.

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