FINISHED SIZE

Blanket measures 32" X 32"

MATERIALS
• Light/Medium (3/4) weight yarn – Cascade
Yarns 220 Superwash (100g / 220yds per ball)
4 balls are needed for the Main Color, 2 balls
for the Unicorn Face Color, and 1 ball for each
of the additional colors (minimal yardage used)
o Main Color: 1914 (Alaska Sky)
o Unicorn Face Color: 871 (White)
o Inner Ear Color: 835 (Pink Rose) Note: An alternative method is
o Eyes, Nostrils, Butterfly Body Color: 900 (Charcoal) given for creating the unicorn
o Rainbow Colors: octagons on page 3. For the
▪ Color A: 842 (Light Iris)
alternate/appliqué method, you
▪ Color B: 227 (Bachelor Button)
▪ Color C: 851 (Lime) will need an additional ball for the
▪ Color D: 820 (Lemon) MC (5 balls total) and one less ball
▪ Color E: 826 (Tangerine) for the unicorn face (1 ball total).
▪ Color F: 839 (Medium Rose); This color has
since been discontinued. A very close
alternative is 838 (Rose Petal).
o Additional colors used for stars, flowers, mane, and butterflies: 896 (Blue Horizon),
1997 (Spring Bud), 914A (Tahitian Rose)
• Light (3) weight yarn – Baby Bee Sweet Delight in Sunkisses was used to make the unicorn horn.
o This is the only piece on the blanket that uses a different yarn. The horn works up best
with a thinner yarn.
• Size B (2.25mm) crochet hook – used for eyes, horn, flowers
• Size I (5.5mm) crochet hook – used for rainbow & unicorn octagons, star square, partial octagon,
border, and butterflies
• Size J (6.0mm) crochet hook – used for joining motifs together
• Polyester fiberfill (optional) – Unicorns pictured were lightly stuffed, but you may leave them
unstuffed.
• Fabric glue/Fray check (optional) – Eyes, nostrils, and flowers are tied onto the unicorn’s face.
These knots are hidden on the inside of the face. You can add a little glue to your knots for
added security, but it is not necessary.
• Tapestry needle

GAUGE
With I-hook and light (3)/medium (4) weight yarn, finished octagons measure 7” in diameter (see page 7
to crochet a solid colored octagon). Finished star squares (page 8) measure 3” across.

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ABBREVIATIONS & SPECIAL STITCHES USED
yo = yarn over sc = single crochet shell = (dc, ch 1) 4 times in stitch, dc in same st
sp = space hdc = half double crochet beg = beginning
st(s) = stitch(es) dc = double crochet BLO = Back Loops Only
ch = chain tr = treble crochet FLO = Front Loops Only
sl st = slip stitch dtr = double treble crochet MC = Main Color

PATTERN NOTES
Blanket can be made any size you like with any yarn. Make a sample octagon and star square with the
yarn (and hook) you are wanting to use. Use measurements from those motifs and the graph paper on
page 13, to help plan a blanket of a different size.

Each motif is joined to its neighbors without

breaking yarn. Make the motifs in the order
shown on the right. Start with motif #1 and work
through motif #27, joining as you go. Next, make
the remaining six partial octagons and join those
to fill in the edges on your blanket. OR, if you
prefer, make all the motifs, but allow a long
ending yarn tail to join later.

To make the blanket as pictured, use the following

colors for the unicorn flowers, mane, and stars (all
other colors are specified on page 1):
• #1: 842, 914A, 839
• #2: 914A
• #3: 820, 851, 1997
• #4: 1997
• #5: 851, 1997, 227
• #6: 851
• #8: 839
• #10: 826
• #12: 826, 820, 851
• #13: 826
• #14: 914A, 839, 826
• #15: 839
• #16: 896, 842, 914A
• #17: 820
• #19: 914A
• #21: 227
• #23: 839, 826, 820
• #24: 842
• #25: 227, 896, 842
• #26: 896
• #27: 1997, 227, 896

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Blanket pattern includes five motifs:
1. UNICORN OCTAGON – pages 3 – 7
2. SOLID COLOR OCTAGON – page 7
3. STAR SQUARE – page 8
4. RAINBOW OCTAGON – pages 9 & 10
5. PARTIAL OCTAGON – page 10
JOINING – page 11
BORDER – page 11
BUTTERFLIES – page 12
BLOCKING – page 12

UNICORN OCTAGON
Steps 1 – 7 describe how to create the unicorn octagon as pictured. This method requires making a front
and back for the face, stuffing the face (optional), and working stitches around the double layered face
to create the octagon shape. This method may feel too difficult or tedious depending on your crochet
ability. However, there is an alternative method that is a bit easier, if you prefer.

Alternative/appliqué method: Create the unicorn face without the backside then crochet a solid color
octagon with the MC. Sew the unicorn face onto the octagon. This method will require an extra ball of
MC (5 total) and one less ball of white (1 total) than the quantities given on page 1.
• Follow Steps 1 – 6 to create the unicorn face, omitting the 2nd layer for the backside.
• Follow the directions on page 7 for SOLID COLOR OCTAGON.
• Sew the unicorn face onto the octagon. Face can be stuffed, if you like.

Step 1: Make two circles for each unicorn face. One will be the front
of the unicorn with eyes, horn, and flowers sewn onto it. The other
circle is for the backside (to hide all the stitches from sewing on the
embellishments).
I-hook
Begin with an adjustable ring and white yarn.
• Round 1: ch 1 (does not count as 1st st here and throughout),
8 sc into ring, tighten ring, sl st join to 1st sc
• Round 2: ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, 2 sc
in next st, repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st sc – 12 sc
• Round 3: ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, 2 sc
in next st, repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st sc – 18 sc
• Round 4: ch 1, 2 sc in same st, sc in each of next 2 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts,
repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st sc – 24 sc
• Round 5: ch 1, sc in same st and next st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st,
repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st sc – 32 sc
• Round 6: ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, repeat from
* around, ending with sc in each of last 2 sts, sl st join to 1st sc – 40 sc
• Round 7: ch 1, sc in same st and in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in each of next 4 sts, 2
sc in next st, repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st sc – 48 sc
• Round 8: ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st join to 1st sc, fasten off and weave in
ends – 48 sc

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Step 2: Add ears, working through both circles. Start by aligning the
stitches on both circles. The circle on top should have the right side
facing you. The circle on the bottom can be flipped either way.
I-hook
• Inner ear (pink): With the seam of the circles pointing
upwards, insert your hook (through both circles) into the 6th sc
to the right of the seam. Pull up inner ear color.
o ch 1, (2 hdc, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, 2 hdc) in
next sc, sl st in next sc, fasten off.
o Insert hook (through both circles) into the 4th sc to the
left of the seam. Pull up inner ear color and repeat
directions above.
• Outer ear (white):
o Right ear: Insert hook (through both circles) into the 7th sc to the right of the seam and
pull up white yarn.
▪ ch 1, work onto the inner ear stiches with a sc in 1st hdc, hdc in next hdc, (2 hdc,
ch 1, 2 hdc) in ch-2 sp, hdc in next hdc, sc in next hdc, sl st in 3rd sc to the right of
seam (through both circles), fasten off.
o Left ear: Insert hook (through both circles) into the 3rd sc to the left of the seam and pull
up white yarn.
▪ ch 1, work onto the inner ear stiches with a sc in 1st hdc, hdc in next hdc, (2 hdc,
ch 1, 2 hdc) in ch-2 sp, hdc in next hdc, sc in next hdc, sl st in 7th sc to the right of
seam (through both circles), fasten off and weave in ends.

Step 3: Add eyes and nostrils, working through the top layer only.
B-hook
• With yarn for eyes, ch 10. Leave an 8” yarn tail, then fasten
off (make 2). Position chain lengths on face and sew into
place, adding lashes using the long yarn tail. When finished,
knot ends together on the inside to secure and trim excess
yarn.
• Cut a separate, 8” length of yarn and sew nostrils to the face.
Work a few layers for each nostril, then knot ends together to
secure.

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Step 4: Make horn and sew onto face. Horn is worked in a continuous
round, FLO.
B-hook & Light (3) weight yarn
Allow for a 16” yarn tail at the start. Begin with an adjustable ring.
• Round 1: ch 1, 2 sc into ring, 2 hdc into ring, 2 dc into ring,
(keep the long yarn tail on the outside of your horn), tighten
ring – 6 sts
• Round 2 (FLO): dc in each of next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st – 7 dc
• Round 3 (FLO): dc in each of next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st – 8 dc
• Round 4 (FLO): (dc in each of next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st) 2
times – 10 dc
• Round 5 (FLO): (dc in each of next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st) 2
times – 12 dc
• Round 6 (FLO): dc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in each of next 3
sts, sc in each of next 3 sts, sl st in each of next 3 sts, fasten
off – 12 sts
Wrap the 16” yarn tail around the horn then sew horn onto unicorn’s face, working through the top
layer only. As you sew the horn into place, be mindful of the stitches across the top of the unicorn’s
head. Those stitches need to be available to work into when the MC gets added around the face.

Step 5: Make three flowers for each unicorn.

B-hook
Begin with an adjustable ring and flower color.
• Petals: (ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st) 5 times into ring, fasten off &
tighten ring
• Center: With white yarn, cut a length of 6”. Tie a knot in the
center of yarn then tie another knot onto the first.
o Bring one end of white yarn through the center of
flower. Bring the other end through the center but
also catch a thread on the petals. This will keep the
knot from getting pulled all the way through the
flower center. Use the yarn tails to tie onto the
unicorn’s face, working through the top layer only.

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Step 6: Add mane to unicorn.
Match mane colors to the flowers and cut 2 lengths of 10” for
each color. Add mane to face as shown below. Mane can be
trimmed to desired length after attaching or you can wait and
trim it evenly later. For the blanket pictured, the mane was
trimmed after completing the blanket to minimize frayed ends.
Mane was trimmed to a length of 3 ½ – 4 inches.

Step 7: Work the octagon shaping around the unicorn’s face. Crochet
through both layers on unicorn’s face for Round 1. Work in the BLO of
the top layer and FLO of the bottom layer. Before completing Round 1,
pause your work and lightly stuff the unicorn’s head with polyester
fiberfill (optional).
I-hook
Insert hook into the 7th st from the base of right ear and pull up
MC.
• Round 1: ch 1 (counts as 1st sl st), sl st in each of next 6 sts, ch
6 (behind right ear), sl st in each of next 2 sts, ch 1, sl st in each
of next 2 sts, ch 6 (behind left ear), sl st in each of next 27 sts
around, sl st join to beginning ch-1 – 51 sts

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 • Round 2: ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc (BLO) in each st around, sl st join to 1st hdc – 51 hdc
• Round 3: ch 1, hdc in same st, *hdc in each of next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat from * around,
sl st join to 1st hdc – 61 hdc
• Round 4: ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc in each of next 4
sts, 2 hdc in next st) 10 times, hdc in each of last 7 sts, sl st join to 1st hdc – 72 hdc
• Round 5: ch 1, hdc in same st, ch 1, (hdc in each of next 9 sts, ch 1) 7 times, hdc in each of last 8
sts, sl st join to 1st hdc – 72 hdc + 8 ch-1’s
• Round 6: sl st in ch-1 sp, ch 1, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in same sp, hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in each of
next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 2 sts, *(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in
each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 2 sts, repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st hdc
o Stitch count for Round 6: 11 sts on each side of octagon with ch-1’s at each corner
o Without breaking yarn, join motif to adjacent motifs (instructions on page 11) then
fasten off and weave in ends.

SOLID COLOR OCTAGON

I-hook
This octagon is to be used in the alternative/appliqué method described on page 3 or as a gauge swatch.
Begin with an adjustable ring and MC.
• Round 1: ch 1 (does not count as 1st st, here and throughout), 10 hdc into ring, tighten ring, sl st
join to 1st hdc – 10 hdc
• Round 2: ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st join to 1st hdc – 20 hdc
• Round 3: ch 1, hdc in same st, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, repeat from *
around, sl st join to 1st hdc – 30 hdc
• Round 4: ch 1, hdc in same st and next st, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in
next st, repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st hdc – 40 hdc
• Round 5: ch 1, hdc in same st and in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in each of next 3
sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st hdc – 50 hdc
• Round 6: ch 1, hdc in same st and in each st around, sl st join to 1st hdc – 50 hdc
• Round 7: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in each of next 4 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 4
sts, repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st hdc – 60 hdc
• Round 8: ch 1, hdc in same st and in each of next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in each of next 4
sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st hdc – 72 hdc
• Round 9: ch 1, hdc in same st and in each of next 8 sts, ch 1, *hdc in each of next 9 sts, ch 1,
repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st hdc – 72 hdc + 8 ch-1 corners
• Round 10: ch 1, hdc in same st and next st, sc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 2 sts,
(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, *hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next
2 sts, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st hdc
o Stitch count for Round 10: 11 sts on each side of octagon with ch-1’s at each corner
o Without breaking yarn, join motif to adjacent motifs (instructions on page 11) then
fasten off and weave in ends.

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STAR SQUARE
I-hook
Begin with an adjustable ring and chosen color for star.
• Round 1: ch 3, (2 hdc into ring, ch 2) 4 times, hdc into ring,
tighten ring
• Round 2: sc in ch-3 sp, dc in same sp, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from
hook, (dc, sc) in ch-3 sp, sl st between posts of hdc sts, *(sc,
dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, (dc, sc) in
same ch-2 sp, sl st between posts of next hdc sts, repeat from
* around ending with last sl st between post of last hdc and
ch-3, fasten off star color
• Round 3 (work in BLO): insert hook in any dc on the left side
of star’s point, pull up MC, ch 1 (counts as 1st sl st), sl st in
each of next 5 sts, ch 2, skip ch at tip of star, *sl st in each of next 7 sts, ch 2, skip ch at tip of
star, repeat from * 3 more times, then sl st in next st, sl st join to beg ch-1 – 35 sl sts + 5 ch-2’s
@ tips
• Round 4 (work in BLO): ch 2 (counts as 1st hdc), hdc in next st, skip 1 st, hdc in each of next 2 sts,
sc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st, sc in next st, *hdc in next st, dc in next st, skip 1 st, dc in
next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st, sc in next st, repeat from * around, sl
st join to top of beg ch-2 – 35 sts
• Round 5: ch 2 (counts as 1st hdc), sc in each of next 3 sts, sl st in each of next 2 sts, sc in each of
next 2 sts, hdc in next st, ch 3, (hdc, sc) in next st, sc in next st, sl st in each of next 3 sts, sc in
each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, ch 3, *hdc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts, sl st in each of
next 3 sts, sc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, ch 3, repeat from * 1 more time, sl st join to
top of beg ch-2
o Stitch count for Round 5: 9 sts on each side of square with ch-3’s at each corner
o Without breaking yarn, join motif to adjacent motifs (instructions on page 11) then
fasten off and weave in ends.

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RAINBOW OCTAGON
I-hook
The MC is used in every round. While working Colors A – F, crochet over the MC so it will be available as
needed. Fasten off Colors A – F when instructed to do so.

How to change colors at the end/start and middle of a round:

Begin with an adjustable ring and MC.

• Round 1: ch 1 (does not count as 1st st, here and throughout),
10 hdc into ring, tighten ring, sl st join to 1st hdc – 10 hdc
• Round 2: ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, pull up Color A with sl
st join to 1st hdc, drop MC but do not fasten off – 20 hdc
• Round 3: with Color A (crochet over MC), ch 1, hdc in same st,
2 hdc in next st, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st) 4 times, hdc in
each of next 2 sts, fasten off Color A and pull up MC, hdc in
same st, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st) 4 times, pull up Color
B with sl st join to 1st hdc, drop MC but do not fasten off – 30
hdc (17 hdc with Color A + 13 hdc with MC)
• Round 4: with Color B (crochet over MC), ch 1, hdc in same st and next st, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc
in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st) 4 times, hdc in each of next 3 sts, fasten off Color B and
pull up MC, hdc in same st, (hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st) 4 times, pull up color C
with sl st join to 1st hdc, drop MC but do not fasten off – 40 hdc (23 hdc with Color B + 17 hdc
with MC)
• Round 5: with Color C (crochet over MC), ch 1, hdc in same st and in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in
next st, (hdc in each of next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st) 4 times, hdc in each of next 4 sts, fasten off
Color C and pull up MC, hdc in same st, (hdc in each of next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st) 4 times, pull
up Color D with sl st join to 1st hdc, drop MC but do not fasten off – 50 hdc (29 hdc with Color C
+ 21 hdc with MC)
• Round 6: with Color D (crochet over MC), ch 1, hdc in same st and in each of next 29 sts, fasten
off Color D and pull up MC, hdc in each of next 20 sts, pull up Color E with sl st join to 1st hdc,
drop MC but do not fasten off – 50 hdc (30 hdc with Color D + 20 hdc with MC)
• Round 7: with Color E (crochet over MC), ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in each of next 4 sts, (2 hdc
in next st, hdc in each of next 4 sts) 4 times, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 5 sts, fasten off
Color E and pull up MC, hdc in same st, (hdc in each of next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st) 3 times, hdc in
each of next 4 sts, pull up Color F with sl st join to 1st hdc, drop MC but do not fasten off – 60
hdc (37 hdc with Color E + 23 hdc with MC)
• Round 8: with Color F (crochet over MC), ch 1, hdc in same st and in each of next 3 sts, 2 hdc in
next st, (hdc in each of next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st) 6 times, hdc in each of next 3 sts, fasten off
Color F and pull up MC, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc in each of next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st)
4 times, sl st join to 1st hdc – 72 hdc (45 hdc with Color F + 27 hdc with MC)

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 • Round 9: continue with MC, ch 1, hdc in same st and in each of next 8 sts, ch 1, *hdc in each of
next 9 sts, ch 1, repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st hdc – 72 hdc + 8 ch-1 corners
• Round 10: ch 1, hdc in same st and next st, sc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 2 sts,
(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, *hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next
2 sts, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, repeat from * around, sl st join to 1st hdc
o Stitch count for Round 10: 11 sts on each side of octagon with ch-1’s at each corner
o Without breaking yarn, join motif to adjacent motifs (instructions on page 11) then
fasten off and weave in ends.

PARTIAL OCTAGON
I-hook
With MC, ch 5 and join to form a ring.
• Row 1 (Right Side): ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), 2 tr into ring, 2 dc into ring, 3 hdc into ring, 2 dc into
ring, 3 tr into ring, push stitches together to form a semi-oval then turn work
• Row 2 (Wrong Side): ch 6, dtr in 1st st, ch 2, skip 1 st, tr in next st, ch 2, dc in next st, ch 2, skip 1
st, hdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, hdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, dc in next st, ch 2, tr in next st, ch
2, skip 1 st, (dtr, ch 2, dtr) in top of beg ch-4, turn
• Row 3: ch 1, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across, ending with 3 sc between dtr and beg ch-6, turn – 27 sc
• Row 4: ch 1, sc in 1st and each of next 8 sts, ch 1, sc in each of next 9 sts, ch 1, sc in each of next
9 sts, turn – 27 sc + 2 ch-1’s
• Row 5: ch 2 (counts as 1st hdc), hdc in 1st st, hdc in each of next 8 sts, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp,
hdc in each of next 9 sts, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, hdc in each of next 8 sts, 2 hdc in last st
o Stitch count for Row 5: 11 hdc on each side with ch-1’s at each corner
o Without breaking yarn, join motif to adjacent motifs (instructions on page 11) then
fasten off and weave in ends.

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JOINING
J-hook
The join is worked with slip stitches, which tend to work up
tighter than other stitches. Going up in hook size helps loosen Note: You may join using any
the slip stitches. other technique you like. The
mattress stitch or whip stitch join
For the 1st motif, fasten off and weave in ends. For the rest of would be great alternatives to
the blanket, work the join after completing each motif without the method shown here.
breaking yarn. Join each motif to its neighbors with slip stitches
worked through the loops on the backside of your motifs. You
will have 11 stitches on each side of each motif to join, plus 1
chain at the corners.

BORDER
I-hook
Choose an octagon at a corner to start the border. Insert your hook into one of the ch-1 corner spaces
and pull up MC.
• Round 1: ch 4 (counts as 1st dc and ch 1), dc in same
sp then work around the blanket with
o 1 dc in each stitch on the octagons
o 23 sc worked evenly across each partial
octagon
o (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp at the corners of
blanket
o when finished, sl st join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4
• Round 2: sl st into ch-1 sp, ch 4 (counts as 1st dc and
ch 1), dc in same sp then work dc in each st around
the blanket with (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp at the
corners. When finished, sl st join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
• Round 3: repeat Round 2
• Round 4: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in each dc and in
each ch-1 sp around, sl st join to top of beg ch-3
• Round 5: *skip 2 sts, shell in next st, skip 2 sts, sl st in shell = (dc, ch 1) 4 times
next st, repeat from * around, fasten off and weave in
in stitch, dc in same st
ends.

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BUTTERFLIES
I-hook
Nine butterflies were added to the blanket pictured.
Begin with an adjustable ring and chosen color for butterfly.
• (ch 2, tr, ch 2, sl st) 2 times into ring, (ch 1, dc, ch 1, sl st) 2
times into ring, fasten off, tighten ring, and weave in ends.

With a 10” length of yarn for body of butterfly, wrap around the
center of your butterfly three times. Knot ends at top of butterfly
body. Position butterfly on blanket and tie into place with the same
yarn, knotting ends at the top of the butterfly body. Lastly, make a
knot on each end for the antenna, then trim excess yarn.

BLOCKING
Blocking your finished blanket will give you the best results and allow all the pieces to lay flat and line up
beautifully. An easy method is a simple wet blocking. Lay your finished blanket on a clean sheet over a
set of blocking mats (or over a blanket). Pin each piece into position then spritz the blanket with cold
water until damp. Let your blanket dry overnight, and voilà, pretty finished blanket!

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Octagons & Squares Graph Paper (for designing your own blanket):

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