HAIRDRESS

ING
WHY WE LEARN HAIRDRESSING
-To gain knowledge about hairdressing

-It’s a source of income

-For self-employment

TERMS USED IN HAIRDRESSING

- Cosmetology – study of cosmetics and their uses
- Cosmetology – person with knowledge of cosmetics and their uses
- Tricology – advanced study of hair alone
- Tricologist – person with advanced study of hair alone
- Hairdresser – person who has skills of how to make hair

SALON TOOLS AND EQUIPMENTS

SALON TOOLS
A) COMBS
1. Tail comb – used for sectioning and smoothening the hair and to apply chemicals

2. Afro comb – used to detangle the hair to facilitate sectioning

3. Rat comb – used to style popcorns

 4. Matador comb – used for straightening hair during blow styling

5. Cutting comb –used to straighten hair during hair cutting

6. Rake comb –used to style loose curls and to balance styles

7. Styling comb – used for styling and balance the styles

B) CUTTING TOOLS
1. Clipper – for cutting dry hair

2. Gauges – attached to clipper to achieve different hair sizes

3. Scissor – used for cutting and trimming hair

Normal scissors
Serrated scissors

4. Razors – used for cutting and shaving hair (modern counter parts are known as hair shapers

C) SETTING TOOLS
1. Rollers – used for setting hair before sitting patron under the hood dryer.
There are two types of rollers (i.e.) magnetic rollers and spiky rollers
 2. Perm rods – used to set hair during permanent waving to produce curls

3. End papers – used to hold the hair ends when setting with perm rods to prevent the formation of fish
hooks

4. Popcorn net – used when styling popcorn

D) PROTECTIVE DEVICES
1. Ear pad – used to protect the client’s ears from heat and noise from the hood dryer

2. Shower cap – used to cover the client’s hair during application of deep penetrating conditioners to aid the
penetration

3. Gloves – used to protect the hand when applying chemical to the hair (e.g.) color, chemical hair relaxers

4. Plastic drapers – used to protect the client’s clothing from getting wet, being stained by the products the
hairdresser is using.
5. Cutting gown – used to cover the client’s clothing when doing hair cutting

6. Perforated cap – used during hair coloring application

7. Face shield – used to protect the client’s skin and eyes from hair sprays
 E) BRUSHES
1. Tint brush – used to apply color, treatments or chemicals on the hair

2. Dent man / vent brush – used to brush weaves

3. Blow styling brush – used to straighten the hair line during blow styling

SALON EQUIPMENTS
1. Hand held dryer – used to straighten and dry hair
It consists of the following;
Nozzle –used to straighten and smoothen the hair
Diffuser – used simply to dry the hair

2. Hood dyer – used to dry the hair after setting it.

3. Tongs – used to produce variety shapes (e.g.) curls, spirals

4. Dummy / block – an artificial head used for practical purposes

5. Holding clips – used for securing the hair sections or protective devices in place

6. Styling pins – used to secure hair styles in place

7. Tint bowls –used to hold chemicals, treatment, colors etc.

8. Trolley – used to hold salon tools and equipment when giving services to the patron / clients

9. Accelerator – used to aid the penetration of products (e.g.) deep penetrating condoners

10. Steamers – used to aid the penetration of products (e.g.) deep penetrating conditioners

11. Roller ball – used to aid the penetration of products (e.g.) deep penetrating conditioners

12. Sterilizer – used to kill all micro-organisms whether beneficial or harmful to human beings
 13. Towel wormer – used worm towels

SAFETY PRECAUTONS
1. Use every tool for right purpose
2. Clean and sterilize tools and equipment before after use
3. Store all items in safe place

RECEPTION
Reception – a point at which the salon staff and the clients start their first relationship

Receptionist – is professional staff who work at the reception area

DUTIES OF A RECEPTIONIST
1. Handling payments
2. Answering telephone calls
3. Booking appointments
4. Receiving and delivering massages to the staffs
5. Keeping salon records documents
6. Giving information to the clients
7. Taking care of the client’s belongings
8. Dealing with Mainer complains from the clients
9. Monitoring staff movements in the salon
10. Enhancing cleanings in the salon

QUALITIES OF THE RECEPTIONIST

1. Should be honest
2. Should be smart
3. Should be confident
4. Should be active
5. Should be friendly
6. Should be able to use national language (e.g.) English / Kiswahili
 7. Should be well informed (e.g.) price of the service offered in the salon, opening and closing time of the salon
8. Should be punctual

PRINCIPLES OF COMMUNICATION WITH THE PATRON / CLIENTS

1. Explain the services that the salon offers and their benefits
2. Give correct information and advice
3. Offer polite and pleasant greeting
4. Give proper attention to the clients

THINGS TO AVOID AT THE RECEPTION AREA

1. Don’t harass the clients (e.g.) being rude, talking badly to the clients etc.
2. Don’t eat at the reception area while serving clients
3. Don’t smoke at the area , it portrays a bad image of the salon ( clients may think is a salon of smokers)
4. Don’t keep the clients waiting as you do non business activities (eg) charting with your friends through whatsapp,
twitter etc.

THINGS TO ENSURE WHILE DEALING WITH CLIENTS

As the receptionist, should make appointments with the clients according to the system involved in particular salon.

Ensure that;

1. Allocation of time to be given to each client and services requested for are done professionally
2. You should book services that take long time for early hour of the morning or early afternoon
3. Always have a pen and a books that you can make notes or appointments when necessary
4. While handling payments in the salon, you are required to calculate the client’s bill accurately. You also need to
double check your answer before telling the client to pay
5. Explain the services that the salon offers and their benefits

NB/ The client’s satisfaction is one of the salon’s main aims and the following are most important;
1. Offer a polite pleasant greeting
2. Make sure that client knows the name of the salon and telephone number
3. Know exactly what services are offered
4. Allow for time for the client’s consultation before the service begins to avoid misunderstanding
5. Always stay calm and don’t be in hurry as this will help you to avoid misunderstanding at the reception area.

MODES 0F PAYMENT IN THE SALON

1. Cash
2. Cheque
3. Travelling cheques
4. Credit cards
5. Debit card
6. Charge cards
7. Gift vouchers

CASH
Use of money to pay bill
You should check for the following;
1. If its real money
2. If its correct amount
3. Double check change and amount taken

NB/
Legal tender – name given to money that is legal to use in a country
Float – amount of money kept to ensure adequate change is available
CHEQUE
Order written by clients instructing his /her bank to pay stated amount money on the cheque to the salon.
It should be accompanied by a cheque guarantee card
One should check for the following;
1. If it’s clearly dated with the date on which you receive it
2. If the name of the salon / person to be paid is written by the clients
3. If amount is written in both words and figures
4. If cheque have being the clients in your presence
5. Ask the client for cheque guarantee card and write the card No. at the back of the cheque
Also check if its valid and if it’s out of date, don’t accept it
6. Make sure all cheque are paid into bank as soon as possible so that they can be cleared
7. Write the client’s address , telephone No. at the back of the cheque in case of any problem

DEBIT CARD
They are similar to charge card / credit card but salon need to have a special terminal machine.
When card is swiped through the terminal machine, the amount is electronically debited immediately from the client’s bank
account
Salon pays small percentage for having terminal machines. Arrangement is between salon debit Card Company

CHARGE CARDS
Some business accept charge cards, they differ from credit card in that account holder must repay the card company the
complete amount spent each month
NB/ Guarantee card is issued by banks / company to salon paid at the end of the month.
It has a spending limit
GIFT VOUCHERS
Are purchases as payments for beauty therapy or retail services
They are given by salon managers to their clients as a sign of appreciation.
They are given to frequent clients.
TRAVELLERS CHEQUE
This may be accepted provided they are in particular currency
(e.g.) pounds, dollars, yen etc.
Such cheques should be accompanied with the client’s passport
They are for the clients who like travelling around the world

CREDIT CARDS
Some salon has agreement with companies like; visa cards and master cards, so that clients can make payments using credits
cards.
Salon pays small percentage to the credit card company on all transactions

If the client wishes to pay using credit card, this is what to do;
1. Check if the card is out of date
2. Place value of the imprinter and make sure that the card No. is transferred clearly to all of the carbon copies
3. Write the amount charged and ask the client to sign the voucher
4. Check signature against that of the card
5. Write details of the services at the top of the voucher
6. Give top copy as the receipt
7. Put the rest of the copies in the file for future reference and other copies to be taken to the company
8. Return card to the client and give out the receipt
NB/ credit cards is issued by the card company to the salon
There must be an agreement between Credit Card Company and the salon
It has the spending limit

COMMUNICATION
Giving and receiving information between two or more people.
There are two methods of communication;
1. Verbal communication
2. Non – verbal communication
Verbal communication
Use of spoken words through mouth and in understandable language (e.g.) face to face or by telephone
Non – verbal communication
Communication in form of written massages (e.g.) sms, on a paper,
Or communication using body movements (e.g.) nodding of the head
Should be given in a language that can be understood

SETTING
Definition – method of placing and drying wet hair.
It can be either be made curly, wavy, straighter, flatter or fuller
Setting can be done using;
- Roller
- Permrods
- Curling irons / tong
- Flat irons
NB/ apply setting aids and dressing aids for the set to appear good

Rollering or roller setting

There are various shapes and sizes of rollers
When using rollers, decide on the size of shape and how to curl

Effects of different roller sizes and shapes

- Large rollers – produce loose curls, making hair wavy rather than curly
- Small rollers – produce tight curls, giving hair more movements
- Rollers pined on or above their bases such that roots are upright, produce volume than rollers than are pined on
their bases.
- Direction of the in which it’s wound around the roller will affect the final outlook / style
- Loosely curled hair will draw more than the tight dried hair

Methods of Rollering
- Clearly comb and section hair no longer or wider than the roller size you are using to avoid dragging effect
- Begin winding from the hair points going to the hair base
- Use tail comb to section and smoothen the hair with
- As you work, ,make sure all wispy hair is included in the roller
- Don’t over stretch the hair because you may cause the hair to break or became weak
- If you are using pins to secure roller, make sure you don’t pierce the client’s scalp or disturb the wound hair on the
roller
- Make sure that the hair points are clearly placed straight and centrally on the roller to avoid formation of
fishhooks
- Use both hands to wind hair on the roller, as you turn, lock hair points against the body of the roller, then wind
down the hair
Don’t move the hair from side to side of the roller because it may slip out of the roller
- As you work don’t put you tail comb down
- Place wound roller centrally on the section base
- Secure wound roller by pinning through it to prevent unwinding

Common faults in Rollering

- If you don’t secure the wound roller on the base you may get a dragged or flat effect without the volume intended
 - If the section is too big is too big, you might find it difficult to blend curls when dressing
- Don’t allow roller pins to scratch the scalp, instead pass it through another roller
- Dragging the hair from side to side of the roller, produces division which don’t dress out evenly and easily
- If you bend back the hair points, you will cause fishhooks
- Twisting hair from side to side, the hair may slip out of the roller

Safety precautions
- Never allow pins to scratch the client’s scalp
- Don’t wind rollers too tightly on the scalp to avoid the client from getting headache
- Don’t pull the client’s hair to avoid causing the client from getting headache
- Don’t position metal clips or pins on the scalp as they will be heated by the heat from the hood dryer and then burn
the client’s scalp
- Hold the tail comb in a correct way as you make sections
- Never put tail comb down while setting
- When removing start from the back
- When setting roller start from the front and not from the back not unless doing spiral winding
- Always make clear sections

A pli - is a wet set hair

Drying a pli
A pli is dried under the hood dryer
- Always make sure that client is comfortable
- Set hair to temperature that suit the client. Most dryers has thermostatic control, but is good to check with the
client time to time
- Fine hair should be dried at lower temperature
- Drying will take 20 – 30 minutes or average
Time depends on;
-Thickness of the hair
Thicker the hair the longer the time and shorter the hair the shorter the drying time
-size of rollers used
Langer the size of rollers used the shorter the drying time and vise vasa
-length of the hair
Shorter the hair the shorter the drying time and vise vasa
-size of sections made
Larger the section the longer the drying time
- Allow the hair to cool before removing rollers. If you unwind rollers while the hair is warm and soft, the shape will
soon drop

Steam setting
Steam setting relies on clean hair whereby the moisture is applied to the hair by use of steamer

Preparing client for steam setting

- Discuss with the client and agree the style she wants. You can use magazine or poster to help client choose a style
- Tell your client how long the service it will take
- Tell your client the setting aids you are going to use and benefits of them on the hair before setting the it
- Drape your client
- Analyze the condition of the hair and scalp

Procedure for steam setting

- wash and towel dry the hair well
- place the hair into a pli (set the hair)
- steam the hair for about five minutes
- Sit the client under the hood dryer for the hair to dry. Drying the hair will depend on the thickness of the hair, size of
rollers used and size of sections made
- After the hair dries, allow it to dry before dressing
NB/ steam setting make hair to shine and it will be easy to dress it
Setting aids
The setting aids help the hair to be held in shape. The maintain the curls, waves, spirals thus making set last longer by
slowing the absorption of moisture from the surrounding environment.
Examples of the setting aids
- Pink lotions
- Setting lotions
- Styling gels
- Setting mousses
Lotions –pink lotions. They moisturize the hair
Mousses – foam wrap. They prevent the fly away effect
Gels – styling gel and curl activator gel. They hold styles into shape

After shampooing and conditioning hair, towels dry it. Remove tangles from the hair and apply the setting aids.
Some setting aids add gloss, glitters, colour on the hair, they include lotion, creams, mousses, gels and hair thickeners .they
contain resins / plastics polythene such as;
- Polyvinyl pyvodone (pvp)
- Polynnyl accetate (pc)
They soften the hair allowing shape to be formed and prevent fly away effect
They coat the hair with fine plastic form which slows down the absorption of moisture

Points to remember when applying the setting aids

1. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions
2. Protect the client’s eyes, because the chemical in the products may have negative effect on the eyes
3. Apply setting aids evenly
4. Massage after application to even out the distribution
5. Don’t apply too much of the setting aids because it will be a waste and it will take long for the hair to dry and also
make the hair be sticky
6. Make sure you towel dry the hair first before applying the setting aids to avoid the dilution the products you apply
on the hair.

Curling techniques
Curl – are the series of shape / movements of the hair
They may occur naturally or be made by hairdressing services (e.g.) chemicals by perming, physical by setting or tonging
Curls add bounce or lift to the hair
Curl is made up of the; -root
-stem
-body
-points /ends
Parts of a curl

1. Base – they are immovable foundation of a curl which is attached to scalp.

Base can be oblong, square or triangular
2. Stem – part of a curl that is between base and the arch of the body
3. Body – circular part of a curl forming a complete circle
4. Points – they are the hair ends
5. Scalp – the skin that covers the head
Shape of a curl depends on the size, stem, direction and curl type
Different curl type produces produces different effects and the type of the curl you choose depends on the style you want to
achieve. (e.g.) high lifted movement needs a raised curl stem

Pin curling
Technique of winding hair into series of curls which are pinned in place while drying
There are types of pin curl;
1. Barrel pin curl – has open center and has a soft effect. Each loop has same size as the previous one.
It use rectangle shape base and it produces even wavy shape and may be used in reverse curling which forms in
modern hair styles.in this one, row of pin curl lay in one direction and the next in opposite direction. When dry and
dressed, it produces a wavy shape.
 2. Clock spring pin curl
Has closed center and produces tight effect. Each loop formed is slightly smaller than previous one. It produces
uneven wavy shape throughout its length

Curl variations
Standup pin curl, barrel pin curl and roller curl are similarly formed
- Stand up pin curl – formed in an oblong base. it has open center and lifted base.
This curl produces a high, soft loose shape
- Roller curl – main difference between pin curl is tension used and their size
- Barrel pin curl – formed in similar base with that used in Rollering. They are normally winder than stand up pin curl
- Reversed curl – using alternate row clock wise and anticlockwise barrel pin curl can create wavy shape. Wavy size is
determined by hair length and curl size and by use of single or double roller

Curl body direction

Flat curl may either be either clockwise or anticlockwise. Anticlockwise move in opposite direction. Roller and stand up pin
curl are formed with their stem directed up from the head. Make sure that you secure hair carefully to get curl going in
correct direction for style you have chosen

Common faults during pin curl

- If you don’t turn your hands sufficiently, you may find it difficult to form loop
- If you hold curl stem in same direction but place it in another, you will cause curl to lift.
- If the base size is too large, curling will be difficult particularly if the hair is short.
- If the hair is tangled, is difficult to control curl, so comb hair well before you start

Reason for poor result

- Wet hair stretches more than dry hair
- If hair is too dry curl spring will reduce
- Warm curls are soft, if you start to dress before it cools, springs and shape will be lost
- If you don’t dry the hair sufficiently, the shape will be lost
- Larger the curl the loser the effect
- If don’t apply enough setting aids, the curls will not have brilliant look

Finger waving
Technique of molding the hair into “s” shape movements using fingers and tail comb
It’s some time called water waving or wave setting
It resembles waves in the sea.
Nowadays styles are fuller but finger waves may be used at lower part of the head.

Forming waves
Used one thumb finger of the hand to control hair and to determine position of the wave. Comp the hair into first part of the
crest and continue along the head. Place the second finger immediately below crest wave and comp hair in opposite
direction.
Only index finger and the third finger should touch head. This gives required control and pressure. Comp with both widely
and closed spaced teeth

DRESSING
This is a process of adding fished touches to well-conditioned cut, set and dried hair
Dressing blends and binds set movement into the overall flowing shape.
Complete shape is called dressed hair, it’s that the client takes away from the salon
Dressing uses brushing and camping techniques and dressing aids
Examples of dressing aids;
- Hair sprays
- Hair polisher
NB/ coiffure is a well-dressed hair

Dressing techniques
1. Brushing
Blends weave / curl removes parting left at curl base, left during Rollering and gets rid of any stiffness caused by
setting aids. Start brushing from the back of the client’s head. Brush through waves or curls you have set gradually
making hair into shape.
NB/ over dressing can lead to the loss of the shape
2. Back brushing
Technique used to give the hair more height and volume back brushing backwards, from points to the roots. You
roughen the cuticles of the hair so that the hair can tangle a little bit. The amount of the hair back brushed
determines the fullness of the finished style. This technique is more useful on fine hair.
3. Back combing.
Similar to back brushing. Instead of using brush, now you use comb to back comb the hair
4. Teasing
Technique of adding final touches to a well-dressed hair. Placing small amount of hair apart individually. It’s
important at this point not disturbs rest of the hair dressed. You can use finger tips, tail comb or well toothed afro-
comb to lift hair carefully in position and to finish the style and balance or cover the exposed areas

5. Simple dressing
Hair doesn’t always need back brushing, the hair has been suitably cut blow styled it may already have sufficient
shape. After tonging, setting, the dressing may be sufficient / adequate.
6. Pleating
Pleat / French row is commonly worn at the crown area. It is suitable for the long hair but can be achieved on
medium length hair. A pleat is one way of dressing long hair to appear shorter than it is.
7. Plaiting / braiding
It’s archived by intertwining sections of the hair. This is an attractive way of dressing the hair. Variety of sizes and
shape are possible. The three stem plait is the most common plaiting techniques. Multiple steams plait can be used.
You can also interlace coloured materials as much as you can.

Plaiting techniques
1. Corn rowing
Continuous plait running along the scalp also called scalp plait / ethnic plait
2. Hair threading
Process of wrapping plaited / unplaited hair with coloured threads
3. Dreadlocks
This is synthetic hair plaited / unplaited added to the natural hair length
It can also be natural hair locked using wax / molding gel.
4. Hair twist
Its oil / gelled hair twisted together to form turf
5. Hair wrapping
Plaiting the hair as you attach ribbons. Commonly used on young children
6. Hair weaving
Interlacing of strands of hair over and under one another to produce variety of basket weaves effects (shape)
7. Hair extension
Synthetic hair plaited and added to natural hair length
8. Three stem
Hair that is held in three stem
9. Ornamentation
Can be used to complete hairdressing. Ribbons, jewels, beads, coloured sprays, hair pins, etc. can be used to make
the hair look attractive.
Faults in hairdressing
-Overdressing
You need to plan whole dressing from the start and watch what you are doing in a mirror, so that you can know when you
have done enough.
Always check for the overall shape, balance and movement when dressing.

NB// check the features of the head and face

-mirrors
Don’t concentrate in one point when dressing the client, as you work, use mirror the check what you are doing
At the end, use hand mirror at correct angle, so that the client see the finished effect from behind and from the side.

Dressing aids
This is products used when dressing the hair.
After the application of the dressing aids, when combing and brush especially when it has being dried, the friction produced is
good.
Examples of the dressing aids:
- Oils
- Gels
- Control creams
Reasons for using dressing aids
- Emollients / moisturizers such as lanoline and olive oil reduces water loose
- Humectants (e.g.) glycerin absorbs moisture

Finishing aids
These are products used after styling the hair.
These contain variety of sprays of different functions.
Some sprays contain pvp (polyvinyl pyrrolidone) which helps to reduce water absorption from the atmosphere.
Others include: -plasticizers which makes the hair more flexible such as pink lotion
-centrimide which help in conditioning of the hair and minimizes the static electricity
-Silicon – adds sheen and gloss to the hair. It may contain colorings, preservatives and perfume
NB/ to achieve a fine and even distribution, hold the hair spray upright about 30 centimeters from the scalp.
If you hold the spray too close to the scalp you will wet the hair.
If you hold the spray too far from the scalp you will, it will miss the hair.

Hygiene and good grooming

Hygiene – is a science that deals with healthful living.
There are two types of hygiene; -personal hygiene
-public hygiene
Personal hygiene
Intelligent care taken by individual to preserve health by following rules of healthful living i.e
- Cleaness
- Oral hygiene
- Good posture
- Sufficient exercise
- Relaxation
- Adequate sleep
- Balanced diet
- Awesome thoughts

Public hygiene
Refers to steps taken by government to promote public health
Government takes responsibility of providing health, safety & welfare of its citizen seeing that they are provided with;-
- Pure air
- Pure food
 - Pure water
- Adequate sewerage
- Control of diseases
- Adequate medical facilities

NB//Beauty problem may also become health problems.

A good completion, fine textured skin, sparkling eyes and luxurious hair may project good healthy condition
Poor health May be caused by;
- Lack of fresh air
- Irregular elimination
- Improper diet
- Lack of exercise

Hygienic rules
To improve your health and appearance you must follow hygiene rules of living
- Eating well balanced food at regular intervals.
- Drinking sufficient amount of water which will keep digestive system function properly and enhance better
elimination.
However one of basic causes of poor health is a poor diet, i.e. - not eating enough of balanced foods which may
lead to Loose of weight.
- Exercise and recreation inform of running and working, dancing and sport will keep your body fit.
A few of benefits resulting from regular exercises are;-
-Improvement in body absorption of food.
o -improvement in blood circulation.
-Large supply of life giving oxygen to the body due to increased action of heart and lungs.
- Moderation of sunshine, supplies body with essential vitamin D.
Fatigue caused by;-
- Work
- Exercise
- Medal effort
- Worry
All these should always be followed by period of rest / relaxation. This allows body to relax from fatigue of day activities and
replenish its self with renewed energy.

HEALTHY THOUGHTS
Mind and body operates as a unit.
Healthy body and mind contributes to a good life.
Healthy body is one in which all organs perform their function normally.
Healthy thoughts can be cultivated by self-control and worry and fear should be replaced by healthy giving qualities of
cheerfulness and courage.
Thoughts and emotion influence body activities.
Thoughts may cause skin to turn red and increase heart action.
It may either stimulate / depress function of body.
Strong emotion [e.g.] worry and fear have harmful effect on the following;
- Heart
- Arteries
- Glands
Depression weakens functioning of organs and lowering resistance to body diseases

Well-groomed cosmetologist
Well-groomed cosmetologist is one of the best advertisements of effective run salon.
To keep your appearance at your best you must give diary attention to all important details that make clean, neat and
charming personality. i.e.
- Daily bath and use of deodorant.
- Oral hygiene [general mouth care]
- Hair style;-Wear attractive hair styles at all times
- Cloths;- Wear clean cloths always
- Facial makeup;- Use correct cosmetics to match your skin tone
 - Hands and nails; -keep them clean and well-manicured.
- Jewerring ;-avoid exaggerate jewelries , At least watch is permissive
- Shoes; - Wear low hilled shoe that are well fitted, shined and in good condition.
- Keep beards and moustaches neatly treamed.

How to maintain health

- Get as much clean air as you can
- Drink sufficient amount of water every day
- Follow balanced diet.
- Develop regular elimination habits.
- Stand, sit and walk with good posture.
- Have regular physical extermination
- Engage in recreation and outdoor exercises and get adequate sleep
- Keep hair well groomed
- Brush teeth at least twice daily
- Keep hands and fingers nails in good order
- Wash hands before and after each client

Ways of maintaining hygiene

- Cleaning and sterilizing of tools and equipment’s
- Using clean towels on each client
- Cleaning floor daily
- Sanitizing all equipment’s to kill germs
- Bathing daily and brushing your teeth
- Using good waste bins

Visual posture
Posture-way you hold yourself while; - Sitting, Walking and standing
Good posture is part of every day’s care, it’s continued and practiced once assisting in prevention of many physical problems.
It’s also self disprinary factor of a gracious and pleasing personality.

Importance of good posture

- Helps prevent fatigue
- Improves your appearance
- Permits one to move with his or her grace in relation to everyday activities.
- Helps one to work for long time.
-
Correct standing techniques
- Head up, chin leveled with floor
- Shoulders relaxed
- Lower abdomen flat
- Chin leveled with flour

Correct sitting techniques

- Keep feet closed together
- Keep knees together
- Place feet out slightly further than the knees
- Never put your feet under chair
- Keep solws of your shoes on the floor
- In order to prevent fatigue and back strain sit with lower part against the chair leaning slightly forward
- If a stool is used to sit on end then keep chest up and rest of body weight on full length of the thighs.

Correct stooping techniques

To pick item from the floor
- Place feet close together
- Keep back perpendicular to the floor has knee bend
- Lift with muscles of thighs, buttocks not with the muscles of the back
Correct lifting technique
- When you lift heavy things make sure you use weight lifters method or you may cause rapture or slipped disk.
- Lifts with the muscles of the thighs but not the muscles of the back.

Care of the feet

- High hilled shoes are often responsible for poor posture feet and backache. Weight is thrown forward putting strain
on feet and back.
- Low broad hills give back support and balanced which help to maintain good posture.
- Low hilled shoes are more comfortable and tend to reduce fatigue resulting from standing for long time.

Personality development
Personality;-Outward reflection of inner feeling, habits, attitude, values and total effect you have on other people and things.
A pleasing personality and good character are very vital to successful career in cosmetology

Desirable quality of good personality

-Attitude
Attitude influences your like and dislike and response to;-
- People
- Events
- Things
People who solve difficult situation with calmness and who are cheerful pleasing and easy to get along with are said to have
healthy attitude towards life.

-Behavior
Way you do and say things when you are with other people and how you control your temper
Everything you say/do [good/bad] starts a chain of reaction that can have continuing and lasting effects

-Thoughts
How and what you think are part of your personality, so do everything you can to improve the quality of your thoughts.
If you want people to listen when you speak know what you are talking about and be able to say it well.
Increase your word power by reading good magazines, newspapers and books.

-Pleasant voice
Words alone will not be sufficient. If a speech is to be fluent and pleasing, a properly pitched tone must be used.

-Emotional stability
If you want to be admired develop ability to live life to its fullest plan to suppress signs that betray emotion such as;-
- Facial expression
- Gestures of Anger, Impatient

-Be gracious
Learn to display pleasant emotions. A smile / greeting, word of welcoming and willingness to assume responsibility of
friendship fitting into a new environment and meeting new people with charm and grace to express quality of graciousness.

-Good manners
Reflection of thoughtfulness to others. This should be easy to follow for which include little things [e.g.]
Saying thank you, Please
Treating other people with respect, exercise care for other people those you work with.
Courtesy is one key to successful career

-Be well groomed

First impression you have of a person, is how he/she is groomed .To meet good grooming requirements, cosmetologist hair
should be clean and have attractively style.
It also goes in hand in hand with good posture and cleaness of your body and cloths.

-Have a sense of humor

Cultivate sense of your humor, take yourself less seriously. When you can examine yourself well, you will have the ability to
properly evaluate your position in society.

How to acquire conversation charm

- Guide conversation
- Don’t be argumentative
- Be a good listener
- Don’t monopolize conversation
- Don’t be rude with other people
- Talk about ideas rather than people
- Use language that can be understood
- Never gossip
- Be pleasant

Never discuss the following topics;

- Your own personal problems
- Religion
- Other clients behavior
- Your love affairs
- Your financial status
- Your poor man ship
- Your own health problems
- Information given to you in confidence

To became popular
Develop your personality by sticking to the following rules;
- Don’t be sarcastic
- Don’t ridicule people
- Don’t lose your temper
- Don’t be rude to others
- Don’t start argument
- Don’t talk continuously
- Don’t spread gossip
- Don’t use slag or poor grammar
- Don’t monopolize conversations
- Don’t be bossy

Professional ethics
Cosmetology - Scientific study and practice of hairdressing and beauty culture
As a professional career cosmetology offers many opportunities and rewards those students who receive training
Develop attractive appearance and charming personality and observe professional ethics

Ethics
This deals with proper conduct and business dealing of cosmetology in relation to their employees, patrons and co-workers
The individual cosmetologist should live up to the following rules of ethics
Rules of ethics
- Gives courteous and friendly services to all clients
- Treat all clients honestly and fairly and don’t show favor
- Be fair, courteous and show respect for the feeling and rights of others
- Keep your word and fulfill your obligations
- Be loyal to your; employer, Manager and Associates
- Practice only the highest standards of sanitation of all kinds
- Obey all provisions of states cosmetology rule
- Believe in cosmetology
- professionals practice faithfulness and sincerity
- As a student be loyal, cooperate with your fellow student and Comply with school rules and regulation
Professional attitude towards patrons/clients
- Great a client by name with a pleasing welcoming tone in your voice
- Ensure your client’s personal belonging are cared for
- Give a comfortable chair to your clients
- Study your client’s mood
- Offer the client a service in a quits and relaxed environment
- Be straight to cosmetic needs
- If patron wishes to talk be a good listener
- Never gossip about anyone

To became successful you should follow the following rules

- Be ethical by following rules of proper personal behavior.
- Make good impression on others
- Cultivate charm, confidence, and pleasing personality
- Pay attention to major details that will make clients to like you.
- Be friendly when greeting patrons in person / over the phone.
- Cultivate pleasing voice
- Listen attentively when others speak
- Address patrons by their names i.e. Miss, Mr., Mrs.’
Never use;- Honey, Mummy, Darling, Etc.
- Treat all clients with care.
- Set a good example for what you are selling, because attractive personal appearance is your best advertisement.
- Train yourself to be efficient in your work
- Keep time in arrival at work and keeping appointment
- Plan each days schedule properly
- Plan to talk intelligently about your work
- Develop business and sales ability along with common sense. use facts when suggesting additional services to the
patron
Avoid;- Critising, Condemning, Complaining
- Be prompt and professional when solving patron’s complains
N/B; - Know how to deal with dissatisfied patron
- To be successful you must learn to do little things that make people love you and come back again and again

To be successful cosmetologist
Should avoid the following;
- Bad breath
- Bad odor
- Chewing gum and smoking in presence of client
- Speaking in loud and harsh words
- Criticizing work of fellow workers
- Discussing personal problems
- Poor posture when working
- Play TV/radio in loud voice in presence of clients
- Spreading gossip
- Making statements that are not true/critical, this lowers dignity of cosmetology
- Know rules and regulation that govern cosmetology in your state
NB// Successful cosmetology must know rules and regulation that govern cosmetology in contributing to health, welfare and
safety of community

Sterilization and sanitation

Sterilization - Process of making an object free from germs by killing all kinds of bacteria whether beneficial/ harmful.
Sanitation - process of rendering objects clean by destroying/slowing down growth of bacteria.
NB// both are important to cosmetology because they deal with methods either to prevent growth of germs or destroy them
entirely where possible.

Terms used in sterilization and sanitation

- Antiseptic - Chemical agent that may kill/retard growth of bacteria.
- Asepsis - freedom from germs
 - Bactericide - Chemical agent having power to destroy bacteria.
- Disinfect - to destroy bacteria on any object.
- Disinfectant - Chemical agent having power to destroy bacteria
- Fumigant - Vapour used to keep clean object sanitary.
- Germicide - Chemical agent having power to destroy germs.
- Sterile - Free from all germs
- Sanitize - To render objects clean and sanitary.
- Sepsis - Poisoning due to pathogenic bacteria.
- Satirize - To make free from all bacteria by act of sterilizing.
NB// Ethyl [ethanol], alcohol, isopropyl are commonly used as disinfectants in the salon.
To be effective the strength should not be less than 70%

Methods of sterilization and sanitation

- Physical agents
- Chemical agents

Physical agents
Moist heat - we get it through boiling water at 212 degree c for 20 min and also from steam pressure sterilizer which is used
in medical field used to kill bacteria.
Dry heat - we get it through baking and used in hospitals to sterilize;-sheets, towels, cottons and other materials
Ultra-violet rays - Found in electric sanitizer used in beauty salons to keep sanitized implements sanitary

Chemical agents
Antiseptics - Substance that may kill/retard growth of bacteria
Disinfectants - Substance that destroy and kills most of bacteria (e.g.) –chlorine bleach, jik, isopropyl
Fumigants [Vapour] usually in a cabinet sanitizer and used to keep sanitized equipment’s
NB// several chemicals can be classified as both antiseptic and disinfectants
A strong solution may be used as disinfectant while weak solutions are antiseptic.
Disinfectant cannot be used on skin because they can damage the skin

Types of sanitizers
Wet sanitizers - any container large enough to hold a disinfectant in which objects to be sanitized are completely immersed.
A cover is provided to prevent contamination of solution. They can be obtained in various sizes and shapes.
Before immersing objects in wet sanitation containing disinfection solution. Be sure to;
- Remove hair combs and brushes
- Wash them thoroughly in hot soapy water
- Rinse them thoroughly
This procedure prevents contamination of solution
After implements are removed from disinfectant solution they must be rinsed in clean water, wipe them with clean towel and
store in dry combined sanitizer until needed

Dry cabinet sanitizer

Air tight cabinet containing an active fumigant
Sanitized implements are kept clean by being placed in cabinet until needed.
How to prepare fumigant
Place one teaspoon of borax and one teaspoon of formalin on a small tray on bottom of cabinet. This will form formaldehyde
Vapour.
Replace chemicals as they lose strength depending on how cabinet door is opened and closed.

Electric sanitizer
Its effective for keeping; -combs
-Brushes
-Implements clean
-Implements must be sanitized before they are placed electric sanitizer.
-Follow manufacture’s instruction for proper use.

Safety precaution
- Purchase chemicals in small quanties and store them in a cool dry place.
 - Weigh and measure chemicals carefully
- Keep all containers labeled, covered and locked
- Don’t smell chemicals directly some may irritate membranes of your nose
- Avoid spilling chemicals when diluting
- Prevents burns by using forceps to insert/remove objects from the source of heat.
- Keep a complete first aid kit in your working station

Consultation and diagnosis

Consultation
-Process of giving and receiving information between clients and salon staff in a salon, you have to ask client different
questions
During consultation the hair dresser should ask herself the following;
- Is the hair dry?
- Is the hair to greasy?
- Is the hair breaking?
- How porous is the hair?
- Is the hair to frizzy from previous treatment?
- What are physical effects [e.g.] crimping and tanging?

Importance of consultation to the client

- She will know the price
- She will know how long the service will take
- She will get true professional advice
- She will know the best service for her hair
- She will know the progress of her hair
- She will know how to take care of her hair at home
- The hair will always be in good condition

Importance of consultation to the designer

- You know previous treatment
- You will know how long clients are willing to stay at the salon
- You will know how much the client is willing to spend
- You will know what kind of product to use on clients hair
- It gives confidence
- will be able to understand client
- You will know the style your client desires

THE HEAD
Human head comprises of the;
- Scalp
- Born of cranium
- Born of face

Born of cranium
-they are 8 borns of cranium
Frontal [1]
-Occipital [1]
-Parietal [2]
-Ethmoid [1]-Light and spongy born between eye sockets and front part of nozzle cavities
-Temporal [2]
-Sphenoid [1]- Central born of scalp and hardest bone of cranium and all borns are attached to it found at the center of
cranium.
NB// - The frontal, parietal, temporal, occipital form the rounded part the head
- It Encloses and protects brain and organs of sight and hearing.
Fontanel - Softest part of a kid
Suture -Its fontanel after hardening.

Borns of the face

They are 14 in numbers
Namely;
- Mandible [1] Forms lower jaw, largest, strongest born of face and located at lower jaw
- Maxillae [2] upper jaw
- Vomer [1] at center of the nose near Ethmoid
- Turbinal [2] at nose and forms outer part of the nose
- Nasal [2] forms bridge at the nose
- Lachrymal
- Palatal [2] at nose from inside [breathing] from root of mouth
- Molar [zygomatic] [2] at chicks
NB//-Maxidal, mandible, molar and nasal born form the face.
The other bones are inside the skull and form the roof of the mouth, the back of the sockets, and the structures at the back of
the nose.
At birth, spaces between the bones of cranium allow them to glide over each other. The largest spaces between the bones
are called fontanelles .The two main ones are the anterior [front] and posterior [back] fontanelles. These are the ‘soft sport’
on a young baby’s head. These soon close together, to form immovable joints called sutures.

Function of the bones

- Give support and shape to body
- They protect various internal structures and organs
 - They serve as attachment for muscles and act as levers to produce body movement
- produce various blood cells in the red born marrow
- They store various minerals
-Calcium
-Phosphorus
-Magnesium
-Sodium

Blood supply to the head

The main blood vessels supplying blood to the head and face are the carotid arteries.
They sub-divided into the internal and external branches.
The internal branch lies deep in the neck and supplies the brain and other parts of the head.
The external branch divides into three main branches; -the occipital branch
-the temporal branch
-the facial branch
The occipital branch on each side of the head supplies the back and the vertex of the head (cranial vertex is the upper surface
of the head. In humans, the vertex is formed by four bones of the skull: the frontal bone, the two parietal bones, and the
occipital bone) and scalp.
The temporal branch on each side passes up the side of the face, the side of the head and the scalp, supplying the hair
follicles and papillae.
The facial branch on each side supplies the muscles and tissues of the face. It passes along chain and up to the front of the
head.

BN// arteries carry blood from the heart. They branch to form smaller arterioles, which in turn branch to form tiny vessels
called capillaries. These carry blood through the tissues. The capillaries then join up to form the venules, which join to form
the larger veins.
In the head the main veins are the internal and external jugular veins.
These are situated at the sides of the neck.
The internal jugular vein and its branch, the facial vein, carry blood from the face and deep within the head.
The external jugular vein carries blood from the scalp, hair follicles and papillae. It has two branches; the occipital and the
temporal veins. These carry blood from those areas supplied by the carotid artery branches. The jugular veins join with the
subclavian veins, which lie 2-3 cm above the clavicle.
Note that veins carry blood to the heart
 THE SKIN
Outer covering of the body
It protects internal organs from harm
It’s a complex and important organ made up of different layers and containing many parts;-
- Oil and sweat glands
- Hair muscles
- Blood lymph vessels
- Nerves
- Sensory organs (etc.)

FUNCTION OF SKIN
1. Protects;
- Skin forms tough flexible barrier. It keeps excess water out and body fluids in.
- The oil and sweat it produces acidic helping prevent bacterial growth.
- Skin has melanin pigment, which reflects back harmful ray of sun.

-Vitamin D is produced in presence of sunlight which helps to maintain body health.

2. Temperature control
-hair muscles and sweat glands help to maintain normal body temperature of 37 degree Celsius.
In cold weather the erector pili muscles contract making hair to erect [standup] thus trapping and insulating layers of warm
air over the surface of the skin.
In hot weather sweat glands excrete water which evaporates from the skin, making skin have a cooling effect.

3. Excretion and secretion

Excretion is the process of removing waste products
Secretion is a process by which substances are produced and discharged from a gland, or organ for a particular function
- Oil and sebum are used as protective covering, water proofing and lubricating skin and hair.
Waste products e.g. urea is passed out of the body inform of sweat.

4. Sensation
- Under the skin, are nerves and sense organs
- They are responsible for feeling heat, pain, cold and touch
- The sensation protects body from harm

Layers of the skin

Skin is made up of three layers;
- Epidermis
- Dermis
- Subcutaneous

Epidermis
Outer most layers and are made up of five layers
- Horny layer [stratum carneum]
- Clear layer [lucid layer]
- Granular layer [stratum granlosum]
- Mixed layer [stratum spinosum]
- Germinating layer[Stratum erminativum]

Function of epidermis
Protects deeper living structure from invation and harm from external environment e.g. subcutaneous and dermis layers

This skin is further divided into five, separate layers. In order from most superficial to deepest, they are the:

Stratum Corneum – horny layer

Stratum Lucidum – clear layer
Stratum Granulosum – granular layer
Stratum Spinosum – mixed layer
Stratum germinativum – germinating layer

Stratum Corneum – horny layer

-This layer is composed of the many dead skin cells that are shed.
. It’s constantly being worn away and replaced by underlying tissue.

Stratum Lucidum – clear layer

-This layer is found only on the palms of the hands, fingertips, and the soles of the feet.
- Transparent and colorless arrowing colour from below to be seen
There is no melanin but the cells contain keranin [proteins]

Stratum Granulosum – granular layer

This is the layer where part of keratin production occurs. Keratin is a protein that is the main component of skin.
Below It Lies between softer living cells and above is hardened dead cells which contain granular tissue.

Stratum Spinosum – mixed layer

This layer gives the skin strength as well as flexibility.
It Consist of mixed cells
Immediately below granular layer lies prickle cells [spinous cells] which are softer, alive and active.
Below this lies a malpighian cell which contain melanin. The skin colour pigment.

Stratum germinativum – germinating layer

This is where the skin’s most important cells, called keratinocytes are formed before moving up to the surface of the
epidermis and being shed into the environment as dead skin cells.
This layer also contains melanocytes, the cells that are largely responsible for determining the color of our skin and
protecting our skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. These harmful effects include burns.
Lower/base layer of epidermis its site for most active growth
Cells are softer and fuller than those above
Germinating layer connects with underlying dermis

Dermis layer
Second and Largest layer of the skin
Its here that hair follicle is formed
It’s made up of elastic and connective tissue and is with supplied with blood and lymph vessels
Skin receives its nutrients supply from this area
Upper part of dermis is papillary layer which contains organs of;
- Heat
- Touch
- Cold
- Pain
Lowest part of dermis is the reticular layer.
Reticular layer has the following structures
- Blood vessels
- Lymph vessels
- Oil glands / Sebaceous glands
- Sweat glands / sudoriferous glands
- Hair follicle
- Arrector pili muscles

Hair follicle
Thin tube like space in the skin where hair starts growing from. The bottom of hair follicle is areas well supplied with nerves
and blood vessels, which nourish cellular activities. This are called hair papillae
Immediately surrounding each papilla is germinal matrix which consists of actively forming hair cells.
As new hair cells develops, the lowest part of hair is shaped into the hair bulb, cells continue to shape the form as they push
along the follicle until appear at the skin surface as hair fibres.
Cells gradually harden and die. The hair is formed of dead tissue
It remains its elasticity due to its chemical structure and keratin content

Sebaceous glands
-Its situated in the skin and opens out into upper third of follicle from it oil or sebum is secreted into the hair follicle and into
hair and skin

Function of sebum
Prevents skin and hair from drying
By retaining moisture, it helps hair and skin to stay pliable
It’s slightly acid [i.e.] ph. 4.5 -5.6 and forms a protective antibacterial covering for the skin.

Sweat glands [sudoriferous glands]

It lays adscent to hair follicle and appendages of the skin
It secretes sweat which passes out through sweat ducts
Ends of this duct can be seen at surface of skin as sweat pores

Types of sweat glands

-Apocrine
-Eccrine

Apocrine
Its layer and is associated closely with hair follicle
Found in groin, Nipple and armpit
It produces thick sweat and secrets large amount of sweat.

Eccrine
Its small and are found over most of skin surface
It secrets small or light amount of sweat
NB//
Sweat is mainly water with salt and other minerals may be present.
In abnormal condition sweat contains large amount of waste materials
Evaporation of the sweat cools the body
Function of sweat is to protect body by helping maintain normal body temperature.

Hair muscle [erector pili muscle]

It’s attached at one end of hair follicle and other to underlying tissue of epidermis
When it contracts it pulls hair and follicle upright, trapping warm layer of air around the skin.

Subcutaneous layer [hypodermis/sub cutis]

Found below dermis
Stores excess fat and base of hair follicle is situated above or sometimes in it.
Subcutaneous tissue – Gives roundness to the body
-Contains fat for use as energy
-Gives smoothness
-Acts as protective cushion for outer skin and fill space between dermis and muscles tissue that may lay
Below
 TRICOLOGY
THE HAIR
It’s a fine strand of dead tissue which appear above the skin surface

Structure of hair
Hair has to division [i.e.] Hair shaft and hair root
The hair covers most part of body except palms of the hand and soles of feet, lips and eye lids

Types of hair
Determined by length, texture, appearance
They are 3 types of hair on human body; -
Namely – Lanugo hair
-Vellus layer
-Terminal hair

Lanugo hair
This is fine downy hair that covers body of unborn baby
Is lost before or around birth
Vellus hair
Its fine short and fluffy hair which covers most part of body
It can be seen carely on faces of women
Terminal hair
It’s longer, coarser hair and found; - Head
- Face of man
-In ears
- eye brows
-arms
- Legs
- chest
- Public region
Layer of hair [structure of hair]
Each hair has some basic structure
It has 3 layer; - Cuticle layer
-cortex layer
-Medulla layer

Cuticle layer
The outer layer of colorless cells, which forms a protective surface to the hair. It regulates the chemicals entering and
damaging the hair, and protects the hair from excessive heat and drying. The cells overlap, like rooftiles; if you rub a hair
from base to tip it feels smooth, but if you rub it from tip to base it feels rough.

Cortex
The middle and largest layer, consisting of long spiral chains of cells like springs. Each cell is made of bundles of fibres. These
are composed of small bundles of macrofibrils which in turn are formed from even smaller bundles of microfibrils which are
made up of smallest bundles of prorofibrils – all long, spiralling, ladderliike chains. The way these fibres and cells are held
together determines the strength o f hair, its thickness, curl and elasticity. Pigments in the cortex give hair its natural colour.

Medulla layer
The central space of the hair
It serves no useful purpose, and is not always present.
CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF HAIR
Bundles of fibres found in cortex are made from molecules of amino acids.
They are about 22 amino acids in hair and molecules of each contain atom of elements in different proportions.
Elements in hair are approximately this proportions; -
-Carbon 50%
-Oxygen 21%
-Nitrogen 51%
-Sulphur 4%
-Hydrogen 7%
Amino acids companied together to form larger molecules, long chains of amino acids called polyptide chain.
If they are long enough they are known as Keratin.
Keratin is an important component of; -
Nails, skin, hair

This keratin makes them flexible and elastic because of keratin hair can be stretched, compressed, curled or weaved.
HAIR BEFORE CURLING [ALPHAXERATION]

CURLED HAIR[BETAKERATIN]

-In hair. Keratin forms long which chain coil up like spring.
They are held up in the shape by cross-links between the chain.
The three kinds of rings are ;-
Disulhphide bonds
Salt bonds
Hydrogen bonds
-Salt and hydrogen bonds are relatively weak and can be broken during browstyling allowing springs to be stretched out.
The normal coted form of keratin is called Alphokeratin
When hair has been stretched, set, dried its called Betakeratin. Changes is only temporary.
Once hair has being made wet/ has gradually absorbed moisture from the hair it relaxes back to alpha state.
Disulhphide bond are much but they can also altered as in perming.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF HAIR
-Hair naturally contains water which lubricates it allowing it to stretch and recoil. Hair that is dry and in poor condition is less
elastic.
-Hair is hygroscopic. It absorbs water from surrounding area [atmosphere]. How much water is taken up depends on dryness
of hair and moistness of atmosphere.
-Hair is porous. They are tiny tube like spaces within hair structure and water flows into this by capillary action just like
blotting paper absorbs.

NB//

STAGES OF HAIR GROWTH

-Anagen stage [growing phase]-
Active growing stage of hair, a period of activity of a papillae and germinal matrix.
Its at this stage of formation, at this base of follicle that the hairs, thickness, shape and texture is determined.
Hair colour too is formed in the early part of Anagen.
This stage may lost from a few months to several months.
ANAGEN STAGE [GROWNG PHASE]

2.CATAGEN STAGE [TRANSITION PHASE]

A period when hair stops growing but activities continuous at papillae. Hair bulb gradually separates from papillae and
moves further up the follicle.
3.TELOGEN STAGE[ROSTING PHASE]
Final stage where there is no further growth/activity at papillae. Follicle begins to shrink and completely separates from
papillae area.
This stage doesn’t last long. Hair moves to surface where its sheld .Towards end of tecogen stage cells begin to activate in
preparation for new enagen stage of regrowth.

4.NEW ENAGEN STAGE

New hair growing phase
In this stage hair follicle begins to grow down again.
-Vigorous papillae activity generates a new hair at germinal matrix at some time old hair is slowly making its way up and out
of follicle.
-Often old and new hair can be seen at the same time in the follicle.

NB//
In some animals hair development occurs at uneven phase resulting in mounting.
Human hair however develops at uneven phase end new follicle are shelding their hair at same time [if all hair fall at same
time we would have bold periods]
REGENERATION OF HAIR/FACTORS INFLUENCING HAIR GROWTH
-Hair is influenced by following factors
Namely; -
Health
Diet
Age
Sex
Hormonal balance
Hereditary factors
Climate
Physical condition
Chemical effects
Effects of disease
HAIR COLOUR
-Natural colour of hair depends on amounts and proportions of pigments it contains.
-There are two types of pigments found in the hair.
Namely; -
Eumelanin
Pheomelanin
EUMELANIN
Gives black or brown colour

PHEOMELANIN
Gives red and yellow colour
NB// White and albino hair contains little or no pigment

GROUPS OF HAIR
Determine by race
Human hair is grouped into; -
Cauasian [European]- is loosely/ weaved/ curled hair
Negroid[African] – They are tight, woolly, curled hair
Monogoloid [Asian]- They are conorse, straight lank hair [ darl hair]
TEXTURE OF HAIR
Fine hair
Course hair
Medium hair
FUNCTION OF THE HAIR
-Covers and insulates the body
-It has secretory function and its linked with secretion of sebum on skin surface
-Prevents the falling articles entering the body
-For beauty- Damed- beautifies a lady
HAIR DRESSING

DISORDER DEFINITION LOCATION CAUSE SIGN TREATMENT

1.Canities Grey or white hair Mainly seen on -Loss of natural Grey hair No treatment
A]cenfenities scalp and facial colour pigment apart from
Canities Occurs in albino at hair -Exists at birth or permanent hair
B]Acquired times normal hair before colour
Canities -Loss of natural
colour pigment
-Exists at birth or
before
-Old age
-Occurs
prematurely due
to worry, nervous
 stain, prolonged
illness or heredity
2.Ringed hair White coloured Along the hair Uneven Alternate rings of Deep penetrating
rings shaft development of white and and
colour pigment in coloured restructurants
keratin treatment.
production
3.Damaged cuticle Dry broken hair Middle lengths Physical chemical Hair will have dull Deep penetrating
and ends of the damaged of the appearance and and
hair shaft cuticle surface. the cuticle layer restructurants
will be broken, treatment.
torn, rough, tom
touch.
4.Hypertrichsis or Unwanted hair Chest, legs and Increased activity Facial hairs -Tweeze
hirsisties growing in hands in the pituitary Chest hair -Electrolysis
unwanted areas gland which in Too much hair on -Shaving
turn increases the legs -Epilation
hair growth Especially in -Dipilatories
women

5.Trichoptilosis Split hair ends At the end of Physical over Spikes along or at -Oil hair regularly
either hair shaft brushing back the end of the -Cut off the ends
combining or hair shaft -Use substantive
chemical change conditioner/
restructurants
6.Monilethrix Beaded hair Occurs at any A rare hereditary The hair is beaded Gently massage
length or along condition along the hair the scalp and has
the hair shaft resulting in shaft vegetable oils.
uneven keratin
production in the
follicle
7.Trichorrexis A dry brittle A long the hair -Physical damage A nodule or a -Recondition with
nodosa condition shaft e.g. use of spiked swollen knot on protein based
including rollers, severe the hair shaft. substantive
formation of back combing or conditioner
nodular swelling chemical damage -Restructurants
or knots e.g. use of strong -Avoid use of
perm lotions. heated rollers and
-Loss of cuticle hot brushes.
scales as a result
the cortex swells
at the damaged
areas

8.Fragilitas crinium Brittle hair that Along the hair -Physical and Spikes along any Cut off the splits
hair splits at any shaft occurring chemical damage length of the shaft and recondition
part of the hair mainly along -Overexposure to with substantive
length hair the sun conditions
restructurants

SCALP DISORDER
DISORDER DDEFINITION LOCATION CAUSE SIGNS TREATMENT
1.Pityrasis apitis Refers to dandruff Scalp Direct cause of
and consists of dandruff is the
small, white excessive
scales that usually shedding of the
appear on the epidermal cells
scalp or the hair that accumulate
 there are two on the scalp
principle types of
dandruff
2.Pityriasis capitis This is the dry On the scalp Shedding of Itchy scalp and Scalp massage
simplex type of dandruff epidermal cells small white scales and use of anti-
dandruff
shampoos
3.Pityriasis …….. Greasy or wavy On the scalp Overactive Flaky scales which Scalp massage
type production and stick to the scalp and dandruff and
shedding of in patches medicated
epidermal scales shampoos
which mix with containing
sebum centrimide.
4.Psoriasis Scaly condition of Skin or scalp Cause unknown Thick silvery white Medical advice
skin with though hereditary patches of scale may help. Coaltar
inflammation and streptococcal with reddish shampoos help to
tonsillitis would inflammation reduce scaling.
influence it made should the scales
worse by stress. be removed
bleeding may
occur
5.Eezema Red inflamed Anywhere on the Either a physical Red inflamed skin Medical
Dermatius blisters on the body irritation or an which results to treatment.
skin, often allergy reaction. splitting and
irritating, sore weeping of the
and painful. skin.

VEGETABLE PARASITIC INFECTIONS

DISORDER DEFINATION LOCATION CAUSE SIGNS TREATMENT
1.Tinea capitis Ring worm of the Scalp Fungus which Round patches of -Medical advice
scalp, patches grows into the greyish skin on -Use of medicated
spread out epidermis of the the scalp with shampoos
around and skin and invades short stubby
lifeless. It breaks hair and follicles broken off hairs
off leaving a
stump or falls
from the enlarged
open follicles.
2.Tinea ravosa Characterised by Scalp Very contagious, Scars from favus Consult a
[honey comb] dry Sulphur caused by are bald patches physician
yellow cup like vegetable that may be pink,
crusts on the scalp parasites white or shiny
when have a
peculiar odour
3.Tinea sycosis Fungal infection Bearded of the -Fungal infection Begins as a small -Use of after
[Barbers itch] occurring over the face -Excessive pushing round slightly shave
face bearded area cutting of the scaly inflamed -Recommended a
follicle from deep patches, lumpy physician
within swellings develop
and hair becomes
dry and breaks.
4.Tinea …………… Ring worms of the Nails A fungus Nails thicken and Medical
nails become treatment
discolored brittle
and loose their
natural shape
5.Tinea pedis Ring worms of the Skin between the Fungus infection Reddish deep Medical
[athletis foot] foot toes and at times and very itchy colourless treatment
 on the soles of the contagious made blisters and
feet worse by cracking of the
excessive skin
sweating

ANIMAL PARASITIC INFECTION

DISORDER DEFINITION LOCATION CAUSE SIGNS TREATMENT
1.Scabies Highly contagious Scalp and any skin Caused by itchy Presence of Recommend a
skin infection surface mite vesicles and physician
caused by itchy pustules, resulting
mite from scratching
the infected area
2.Pediculosis A condition where Scalp Light brown or Presence of the Apply
capitis one’s head is grey insects called insects their eggs lurkspur…..or
infested by head head lice as well as reddish medical lotion to
lice inflamed skin on kill lice, leave the
the affected area hair to dry
naturally then
wash with
germicidal
shampoo

BACTERIAL INFECTIONS
DISORDER DEFINITION LOCATION CAUSE SIGNS TREATMENT
1.Sycosis vulgaris Bacterial infection Bearded area of Bacteria infection Formation of Recommend a
involving the the face worsened by use pustules and physician
follicles of the of unsterilized papules,
beard and the implements and surrounding skin
moustache nasal discharge is tender,
reddened and
swollen at times.
2.Furuncis [Boil] Bacterial infection Nape area An acute staphy A pustules Medical
of a hair follicle lococci infection perforated by hair treatment
3.Carboncle Bacterial infection Anywhere on the An acute staphy Larger than a Visit a physician
of a hair follicle skin surface lococci infection furuncle
4.folliculities Bacterial infection Beards for men Bacteria which Small sports Seek medical
of hair follicle and sometimes enter the hair around the mouth advice
around the nape follicle of the hair follicle
area which becomes
raised and very
sore
Impetigo Bacterial infection Mostly in Bacteria which Small blisters on See medical
of the skin, children’s face enter through the skin filled with advice
characterized by and bearded area breaks in the skin a clear liquid,
blister of men and the nail after which may ooze
infestation by or weep. Later
head lice followed by
yellow crust

Viruses
disorder definition location cause sign treatment
Cold sore A viral infection of Lips inside mouth Believed to be Burning, prickly Seek medical
the skin and surrounding triggered by ultra sensation, advice.
areas violet light followed by
blisters filled with
pus which develop
into a dry crust
Herpes zosters Viral infection of Any part of the Chicken pox Blisters appear Seek medical
shingle the skin and nerve body becoming advice
endings inflamed and
painful sometimes
accompanied by
fever
warts Viral infection of Common on Viruses living in Raised rough skin Seek medical
the skin exposed areas the lower layer of which may be attention
(e.g.) finger, the epidermis brown or But sometimes
hands, face, soles causing abnormal discolored they disappear
of the feet keratinization to without any
the place. treatment.
Influenza / Viral infection Fever, sneezing See medical
common cold attacking the attention
body cells

Disorders of the sebaceous glands

disorder definition location cause signs treatment

seborrhea Excessive Scalp, forehead Overactive Lank, limp, greasy Regulate and
greasiness of the and nose sebaceous glands hair shiny oily skin control oil
skin and hair producing production by
excessive amount keeping scalp and
of sebum hair clean.
Reduce physical
stimulation
Medical
consultation if
symptoms
continues
Acne A disorder of the Face mainly on Over production Raised spots Seek medical
hair follicle and the fore head and of the sebum containing white attention.
sebaceous glands cheeks and upper which blocks the pus and black
back hair follicle heads. Skin also
opening mostly becomes inflamed
on the onset of
puberty, related
to hormone
changes.
Sebaceous cyst Swelling of the Anywhere on the The sebum Bumps, limps or The sebum need
sebaceous glands body produced the swellings which to be removed by
sebaceous glands are soft to touch a doctor
becomes trapped on the scalp or
in the sebaceous other part of the
duct. The swelling body.
varies in sizes.

Seborrhea A greasy form of Around the hair Excessive Yellow graying Seek medical
dermatitis dandruff line, nose and production of scale that covers attention
behind the ears sebum the skin and
accompanied by makes it to
over production of become red and
epidermal cells extends beyond
 the scales.

Alopecia
It is noninfectious condition of the skin and the hair
Alopecia is baldness or thinning of the hair

Types of the alopecia

- Alopecia areata
Name given to the baldness in circular area
- Totalis alopecia
Complete hair loose from the scalp
- Alopecia universalis
Complete baldness of the body.
This is caused when the hair follicle are unable to [produce new hair to replace the old one
- Male pattern alopecia
Baldness found in teenage years of men
Cause is hereditary
- Cicatrical alopecia
Baldness due to scaring of the skin due to chemical or physical injury
Germinal matrix are damaged and permanent baldness occurs
- Alopecia senilis
Form of baldness occurring in old age
- Traction
Baldness due to pulling of the hair

Test done on the hair and skin

There are various tests which can be made to diagnose condition of the skin and the scalp. This will help the hair designer
decide what action to take before proceeding with any hairdressing processes.
Results should be noted on the client’s record card.

Ways of identifying limiting factors in hairdressing services

- Tests
- Consultation
- Record cards
- Observation

Various tests
- skin test / patch test / hypersensitivity test / pre-deposition
Test done to access the reaction of the skin to the products to be used on the client’s hair
(E.g.) Before tinting treatment
- strand test
Test done to access the resultant colour on section of hair while colour is processing and developing
- test cutting
Test in which strands of hair is cut from the head is processed to check suitability, the processing time required
before tinting is carried out.
- Curl test
Used to access the development of curls in perming process
This test is carried out during processing
- Test curl
It is done before processing to determine the lotion suitability, strength, perm rod size
- Peroxide test
Test done on hair that has being stripped off its synthetic colour
This test is done to access the effectiveness of the process
- Incompatibility test
Test done to detect chemical already on hair, which could react with the chemical to be used
 (e.g.) perming
- Elasticity test
Test to determine how much hair will stretch and return to its original position without breaking.
- Porosity test
Test done to access ability of the hair to absorb moisture or product
If cuticles are open, the absorption will be quick
If the cuticles are smooth, it means the cuticles are closely packed.
The hair may resist or take slow to absorb the moisture or products
The porosity test is done by rubbing the hair from the tip to the roots to access the degree of the roughness and the
smoothness of the cuticles.

DRAPING
Draping – is the protection of the patrons clothing
The cosmetology first primary responsibilities are:
- Ensure that the patron is comfortable
- Protect the patron’s clothing from damage by any of the hairdressing product being used
- Protect the patron from injury
- Provide quality professional service to the patron

Preparation for draping

The following points should be considered when draping
- Ensure your client has a comfortable chair
- Select arrange all requirements for draping
- Wash and sanitize your hands
- Ask your client to remove earrings, glasses, necklaces and hair jewelries
Keep them in safe place where the client can see
- Turn the dress and blouse collar inside. Make sure it is straight and will not wrinkle

NB/ for wet hair service

Method used for draping a client for a shampoo, wet hair shaving must be properly done, to ensure that there will
be no accidental wetting of the client’s cloths

Procedure
Wrap a neck strip around the client’s neck. This will ensure that the towel and the plastic draper to be used during draping
will not come into contact with the client’s skin
Place salon sized towel length wise across the patron’s shoulders. Adjust the towel so that 1/3 of its width is resting on the
neck while the rest is draped over the shoulders
Bring the ends of the towel together under the chin and overlap from in front.
Fold the part of the towel resting on the part of the neck down over the draper and neck band
At no time should the draper touch the patron’s skin
Drape the second towel over the shoulders and fasten it in front with a large clip

SHAMPOOING
Shampooing –process of cleaning the hair and scalp using detergent purposely to remove dirt, dust, grease, and another
materials.
This is essential in preparing the hair other hairdressing processes
(e.g.) -perming
-conditioning
-blow styling
Psychological effects of a good shampooing
- Soothing
- Relaxing
- Enjoyable

Make sure that the client is comfortable throughout

Pure shampooing may irritate your client and lead to dissatisfaction

NB/ shampoo is the detergent used during shampooing

Preparations done before shampooing

- Give your client warm welcoming
- Do thorough consultation
- Drape client properly
- Analyze the condition of the scalp and the hair
Ask questions such as;
-what products do you use at home
-how often do you shampoo your hair
- If you find any contra-indication, report immediately to a senior member of staff
- Make sure that the client knows the price before shampooing the hair
- Inform the client how long the shampooing will take and the products you are going to use

Choosing a shampoo
Shampoo comes in various forms
They include the following; -creams
-gels
-semi-permanent

There are different shampoo sizes (i.e.) 1 liters, 5 liters

There are shampoos which are milder and others are gentler
Balance of the shampoo ingredients and also the ability to deal with different hair types and conditions is important.
Shampoos may be named after the ingredient they contain. (e.g.) lemon shampoo has lemon essence or citric acid content

Types of shampoo
- Soap based shampoo
They clean the hair but if hard water is used during shampooing, soap scum deposits are formed on the scalp and
hair.
You can use citric acid (lemon juice) or acetic acids (from vinegar) to rinse the scum deposits formed

- Soap less shampoo

They are popular and very effective to clean the scalp and the hair, either using hard or soft water
They do not form soap scum deposits

Popular shampoos
- Jojoba shampoos – they are for dry hair and have a good moisturizing effect on the hair
- Coconut shampoos – they are for dry hair. They contain emollients which help the cortex to retain moisture / water
- Chamomile shampoos – they are made for greasy hair. They make the hair brighten and shine
- Rosemary shampoo – they are for normal hair. They are antiseptic (they prevent the growth of bacteria)
- Soya shampoos – they are for normal hair. They contain moisturizer which moisturizes the hair
- Oil shampoo – they are for dry hair. They contain olive oil, almond oil (etc.) which softens and conditions the hair
- Egg shampoos – the egg white is for greasy hair. It emulsifies grease (it brings to the surface) and it is easily rinsed.
-the yolk is for dry hair
- Medicated shampoos –they help to maintain the normal state of the hair and skin.
- Treatment shampoo – various shampoos are designed to deal with specific problems (e.g.) anti-dandruff for
Dandruffs
- Non – strip shampoos – they are formulated to prevent stripping off the tints from the hair
 - Pre- perm shampoos – they are used before he application perm lotions. They a chemical that ensures the porosity
of the hair is even out
(pre means before and post means after)

Factors to consider when making right choice of a shampoo

- Texture, type and condition of the hair
Hair requires shampoo that will not make it fluffy (very fine)
- Frequency of shampooing
If the hair is washed once or more daily, choose a shampoo specially designed for frequent use.
- Water quality
If the water used in salon is hard, soap based shampoo will tend to form scum deposit on the hair and the scalp
In soft water areas most types of shampoo can be used.
- The function of the shampoo
Is it intended to colour, tone, condition or just cleanse the hair
- Hair treatment plan
What are you going to do with the hair later?
Some shampoo ingredients (lanolin is an example) coats the hair shaft
This would prevent cold perm lotions from working, for instance. In this case you would need to use a pre-perm
shampoo

How shampoo works as a detergent

Water does not spread thoroughly over the hair and scalp. This is because water molecules are attracted together by weak
electrical forces. These have their greatest effect at surface, creating what is known as surface tension
On hair, water by its self tends to form droplets. The detergent in the shampoo reduces surface tension, allowing the water
to spread over the hair and scalp, wetting them. Detergents are, in other words, wetting agents
Each detergent molecule has two ends. One end is hydrophilic which attracts water molecules and repels grease.
The other end is hydrophobic attracts grease and repels water
Detergent molecules lifts grease off the hair surface and suspend it in the water. The suspension is called an emulsion.
The dirt is held by the grease, so that the grease is removed, the dirt loosens too. The emulsion and loose dirt can be rinsed
away with water, leaving the hair clean.

Shampooing technique
A part from cleaning the hair, shampooing can affect the client’s mood. Hands and fingers used too lightly and missing out
parts of the head may irritate the client. Be thorough in all your hand and finger movements.

Massage techniques
- Effleurage – stroking movement
- Petrissage – kneading movements
- Friction – rubbing

1. Begin shampooing with a smooth effleurage movement

2. Continue with a firm but gentle petrissage movement
-let your fingertips glide over the scalp. Lift your hands periodically to avoid tangling the hair
-move your hands towards each other, up from the sides to the top and down across the nape area.
-move your hands in decreasing circles around the head to make sure you cover the scalp fully.
3. Use lighter friction movement to stimulate the scalp gently.
4. Finally, use soothing effleurage movements to complete the shampooing process

While shampooing
- Make sure the client is comfortable at all times
- Check massage movements, water temperature, water flow and pressure, and the client’s position
- Work hygienically. This is good practice at all times. It is also reassures your client who can then relax and enjoy the
hairdressing processes.

After shampooing
- Turn off the water flow. Return the spray head to its place
- Lift the hair from the face. Wrap it with a towel, and gently remove any surplus water remaining in the hair
 - Reposition the client comfortably
- Check that all shampoo, dirt and grease has been removed and that the skin and the hair is clean.
NB/ lifting the client from backward washing position to quickly can result to dizziness.
Allow the client to relax a little bit before moving client to another position.

Effect of different water temperature for the hair and scalp

- Warm water
Shampooing will be effective and the hair will be thoroughly cleaned
- Cold water
It will create discomfort with the client and may not clean the hair and scalp thoroughly
- Hot water
Will burn the client’s scalp

The PH Scale
Shampooing is like any other chemical service that the skin and the hair
You should consider how acidic or alkali the skin will be left after shampooing
The PH measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance
It ranges from PH 1 – PH 14
Acidity – PH number below 7
Alkalinity – PH number above 7
Neutral – PH number 7
The higher the PH the more alkaline the substance
The lower the PH the more acidic the substance
The normal PH of the skin is 4.5 -5.6, this referred to as the skin acid mantle
The skin acid mantle is the combination of the sweat and sebum (the natural skin oil). This prevents the growth of bacteria.
If the PH rises above 5.6 the infection is likely to occur. This may happen if the PH is not adjusted after chemical process

NB// PH can be tested using litmus paper. This will tell if the substance is acidic, alkali, or neutral
If the hair is place in an alkali solution, it swells and the cuticles lift.
 CONDITIONING AND HAIR CARE
Caring for your client’s hair and keeping it in good condition is a base of good hair dressing
If the hair is breaking and the cuticles are rough and splitting, the appearance is dull and uninteresting.
If you ignore poor condition and apply further harsh treatment, you may cause more damage to the hair

The client
First do a thorough consultation. Ask what has being done to the hair. If it’s a regular client, check a record card
Examine and analyze the condition of the scalp and the hair.
From what you can see, diagnose any problem like porous hair, loss of elasticity, damaged cuticles, split ends and if the hair
is dry
Advice the client on what can be done, what treatment are recommended and what products to use and their possible
benefits
Make sure that the client is aware of need more than one treatment (conditioning)
Give the client correct home advice

Factors that can affect the condition of the hair

- external factors
This includes all physical treatment such as;
-back combing
-shampooing
-blow styling
-Tonging
- effects of weather
This includes the following;
-sun (causes natural bleaching)
-wind
-extreme climate (hot, cold, humid)
- chemical effects
This result from;
-over processing during perming
-over processing during bleaching
-swimming in sea and pool
-if the manufacturer’s guidance or instructions are not followed correctly
-if correct procedures are not followed
- General health and life style
Good health is reflected in good hair and skin. A balanced diet with plenty of fresh food contributes to good health
Medicines used in treatment of diseases may affect the skin and the hair
Pregnant women’s hair is always at the best at this stage

Assessment (things you should check)

Examination of the hair and the scalp helps you to know the best products to use
- Is the hair dry / very dry, splitting hair ends, breaking, dull
- Is the hair normal, smooth cuticles, shinning and easy to manage
- Is the hair greasy / very greasy, difficult to control
- Is the hair chemically treated
- does the hair has good elasticity
- how is the porosity of the hair
- is the hair coated with any hairdressing products

Conditioners
Conditioners are [products used so that the hair doesn’t lose its natural condition
It helps to treat hair to retain to its healthy condition
General effects of conditioners
- smoothens hair cuticles
- it reduces tangling of the hair
- it repairs broken area of the cuticle / cortex
- it balances acidity and alkalinity of the hair
- used to deal with a particular problems of the hair
- makes the hair to gloss and shine

Conditioners may be used to solve / deal with particular problems

-some allow cortex to attract water, this are called humectants / moisturizers
-others allow cortex to retain water / moisture this are called emollients
-some counteracts the effects of oxidation (chemical process that takes place during process like tinting. This is called anti-
oxidants

The following are some of the conditioners used

- control creams, dressing aids like oil polishers
- re-conditioning rinses, humectants
- anti-oxidants
- PH balancers (after shampooing, tinting)
- Hair thickeners
Types of conditioners
- Surface conditioners
- Deep penetrating conditioner
- Combined surface and deep penetrating conditioner

Surface conditioners
They work on the surface of the hair (cuticles)
They add gloss and help to make hair manageable
They do not enter hair but remain on the surface of the hair
They smoothen the hair by coating it
Some neutralize effects of chemical process such as tinting and bleaching
Commonly used surface conditioners include
-dressing cream and oil
-re-conditioning cream and lotion
-acid or rehabilitating rinses
This may be applied before and after treatment
They may contain some of the following ingredients;
Lanoline
Cholesterol
Vegetable and mineral oil
Fat
Citric acid and lactic acid

Deep penetrating conditioners

They penetrate the hair. They are designed for repair damaged cuticles by the hairdressing processes (salt and hydrogen
bonds are repaired)
This type of conditioner can also smoothen the hair cuticles and make hair structure stronger.
They may contain the following ingredients;
-quaternary ammonium compounds (help to kill bacteria)
-Sulphur compounds (replace broken bonds)
-protein hydrolysates (strengthen hair)
-humectants (which hold water in the hair)
-emollients (soften tissues and the hair)
-moisturizers (help to retain moisture)

Purpose of conditioning
They may be applied to;
 - To correct some hair state
- Counteracts the effects of hairdressing processes
- To maintain health hair

1, dandruff (pityriasis capities)

They are cause by over production of epidermal cells. It appears as small, very fine, white loose scale
Dandruff may irritate the scalp to a varying degree
This makes a person to fill itchy
Treatment – use of anti-dandruff shampoo
-use of anti-dandruff hair food
-use of anti-dandruff treatment
2, greasy hair (seborrhea)
They are produced by sebaceous glands. This may be stimulated by too much massaging (vibration massage)
Use of products containing too much of grease may add to the problem.
Treatment – excess grease can be removed by regular washing with balanced shampoo, ammonium hydrochroride,
borax,
Products with fungicides and bacteriacide may help
3, split ends
Treat with substantive conditioners or restructurants or by cutting
4, damaged cuticles
Treat with restructurants
5, trichorrhexis nodosa (hair that has nodules in the hair shuft)
Treat with protein hydrolysate or substansive conditioners
6, dry, brittle, over processed hair
Treat with restructurants or protein hydrolysis

Maintaining health condition

Keeping hair in good condition requires use of conditioners to reduce the effect of harsh chemicals and physical treatment.
Many poor hair condition are caused by ignoring basic principles of good hair dressing
Clean and rinse the hair correctly, carry out process as recommended and handling the hair gently with care to ensure good
hair condition.
Conditioners will keep hair looking good

Equipment which you can use to aid the penetration of conditioners

- Steamers
- Accelerators
- Rollerballs
- Radiant heat

Massage
Massage – method of manipulating the skin and the muscles
It may be applied by the hands and machine

Effects of massage
- Improves the blood flow
- It stimulates and soothes the nerve endings
- Improves the muscle tone, assisting in normal contraction and relaxation
- Improve the removal of waste materials from the skin
- Helps in removal of fatty lumps
- Stimulates the hair follicle
- Stimulates glands (e.g.) sebaceous glands

Massage movements
- Effleurage
- Petrissage
- Tapotment movement
- Friction
Points to consider when doing massage
- Massage is only beneficial when applied in a quiet atmosphere.
- Avoid hard and heavy movement to the scalp and the head, this may lead to the discomfort to the client
- Over stimulation may cause headache, muscle fatigue
- Don’t do massage if the client has any of the following;
-inflammation
-cut
-Rashes
-Signs of disease
-If the client is under medication

Application of oil treatment

You can use the following oils; -olive oil
-almond oil
They are applied directly on the scalp and hair
Pre- heat the oil to a comfortable temperature because hot oil may burn the client’s scalp
Apply oil on the scalp
Allow oil to remain on the scalp for 5-15 minutes, during this time, you can apply vibrator massage
When time is up, do shampooing. Apply soap less shampoo first, the shampoo combine with oil (emulsifies) and can rinse out
with water.
NB// do not apply water first, it will prevent shampooing to be effective because oil will coat the hair and scalp.

Conditioning and hair care products

After conditioning the hair, it should be smooth, shinning, not tangled
Apply chemical process only after analyzing the condition of the hair and scalp
Read manufacture’s instruction and ingredients
Make sure you towel dry the hair first before application of conditioners because excess water will dilute the conditioner
hence reducing their effectiveness
Advice the client to improve on the home care management of the hair
For further treatment, note down the condition of the hair and scalp and the treatment given on the client’s record card
At the end of the service, the client should be satisfied and encouraged to return to the salon

Conditioning products
1,Shampoo
Choose a shampoo that suits the condition of the hair and the scalp
- Jojoba – dry hair
- Soya – for normal hair
- Orange – for greasy hair
- Medicated – for maintaining the normal condition of the hair and the scalp

2, Setting and shaping agents

-Setting lotions, gels and mousses they coat the hair when it is wet
-Pvp (polyvinyl pyvodone); -they leave the hair firm
-the reduce the static electricity
-they help to hold style for long time

-Cationic detergents and centrimide

They repair damaged hair
They reduce static electricity
They add sheen to the hair
Cationic detergents they give body to the hair

-emollients
They help to retain water and moisture to the hair

-moisturizers
The help to add moisture to the hair
3, hair thickeners and builders
Cationic detergents - give body to the hair
Protein hydrolysates – attach to the hair and thicken it

4, conditioning rinses and agents

-Lemon juice (citric acid) – removes soap scum
-vinegar (acetic acid) removes soap scum, they smoothen hair cuticles and also reduces the alkaline effects

5, restructurants
-they penetrate and repair damaged hair
-they soften the hair
-they smoothen the cuticle
-they add sheen
-they thicken the hair

6, Anti-oxidants
Used after bleaching and tinting to stop oxidation

7, PH balancers
Used after chemical processing
8, dressing aids
Vegetable and mineral oils, gels are used to smoothen the hair, add sheen and help to retain moisture.

9, lacquers
Liquid made of shellac dissolved in alcohol, or of synthetic substances, that dries to form a hard protective coating on the
hair

BLOW STYLING
It’s the process of styling wet hair while blow styling
It involves use of hand held dryer. There are various techniques which can be used to create different effects while directing
heated air on to the wet hair.
 HAIR COLOURING
Colouring –act of changing the natural colour of the hair by adding the artificial colors / synthetic colours
The depends mostly on the pigments on the hair
MIXING COLOURS
There are three primary colours
1. Red
2. Blue
3. Yellow
The secondary colours are;
1. Purple
2. Green
3. Orange
The various other colors are made from different proportions of different proportions of primary and secondary colours.
White and black can be added to vary the tone of the color

HAIR COLOURS
The natural colour of the hair depends on the melanin within the cortex of the hair.
Eumelanin colours the hair black and brown and pheomelanin colors the hair red and yellow.
The colour you see depends on the amount and proportion of pigments
If the hair contains no pigments, its white / blonde. Children who start with blonde hair, it may get darker later as more
melanin is produced. Some people never have pigments in their hair and this is called albinism. Sometimes there is little
colour present and this is called partial albinism.

DESCRIBING HAIR COLOUR

Hair can be described;
1. Depth
2. Tone
Depth – how light or dark the colour is
Tone – this is the colour you see.
Warm shades (e.g.) gold or red has more pheomelanin and cool shades (e.g.) green or blue has less pheomelanin.

INTERNATIONAL COLOUR CHART SYSTEM (I.C.C.S)

Most manufacturers use numbering system called i.c.c.s for choosing colors. It helps the hair hairdresser to be perfect when
choosing colours. (e.g.) your idea of red color could be a rich urban colour but the client’s idea of red could be a pale copper
so you need to use an i.c.c.s to choose a right colour.
- To produce ash shades add blue
- To produce matt add green
- To produce gold add yellow
- To produce warm shades add orange
- To produce purple or violet add a mixture of red and blue
TONE Blue Violet Yellow Orange Red Green
(ash) (maurvel (gold) (warm) (red) (matt)
ash)
DEPTH
Lightest Lightest ash Lightest Lightest golden Lightest warm Lightest red Lightest matt
blonde maurvel ash blonde blonde blonde blonde
blonde blonde
Very light Very light ash Very light Very light Very light Very light red Very light matt
blonde maurvel ash golden blonde warm blonde blonde blonde
blonde blonde
Light Light ash Light maurvel Light golden Light warm Light red Light matt
blonde ash blonde blonde blonde blonde blonde
blonde
Blonde Ash blonde Maurvel ash Golden blonde Warm blonde Red blonde Matt blonde
blonde
Dark Dark ash blond Dark maurvel Dark golden Dark warm Dark red Dark matt
ash blonde blonde blonde blonde blonde
blonde
Light Light ash Light maurvel Light golden Light warm Light red Light matt
brown ash brown brown brown brown brown
brown
Brown Ash brown Maurvel ash Golden brown Warm brown Red brown Matt brown
brown
Dark Dark ash Dark maurvel Dark golden Dark warm Dark red Dark matt
brown ash brown brown brown brown brown
brown
Very dark Very dark ash Very dark Very dark Very dark Very dark red Very dark matt
brown maurvel ash golden brown warm brown brown brown
brown brown
Black Ash black Maurvel ash Golden black Warm black Red black Matt black
black

HOW TO GET COLOURS

Depth + tone +describing word = colour

Types of Hair Colourant / Synthetic Colours

Synthetic colours hair colorants may be grouped according to how long they remain on the hair.
1. Temporally colours
2. Semi-permanent colours
3. Quasi colours
4. Permanent colours
Temporally colours
They remain on the hair until they are washed. They don’t penetrate through cuticles nor do they affect the natural colour of
the hair. They coat the surface of the hair. If the hair is very porous /is in poor condition some colorants might be absorbed.
These colours are applied as lotions, creams and mousses
Advantages of uses temporally colours
- The colors effect is only temporally
- The colourant are easily removed
- No skin test is required
- Wide range of colours are available
Types of temporally colours
1. Setting lotions and creams
The colour is usually carried in a certain agent which gives body to the hair. No mixing or dilution is required
2. Coloured hair lacquers
Sprayed on a dry dressed hair. They contain shellac. They coat the hair cuticles and can be removed by brushing or
washing
3. Hair colour crayons / paints
They are mainly for theatre. They are useful for highlighting and dressing for television.
4. Glitters dust
 These are made from shinning coloured metal dust. When sprinkled on the hair, they produce a twinkling effect.
5. Coloured mousses and gels
They colour and condition the hair at the same time. They also add extra body.

NB/ Only coats the hair surface (cuticles)

Semi – permanent colour

They are made from various forms and normally require no mixing but always check for manufacturer’s instructions. These
colours are deposited in the cuticles and the outer cortex. The colour gradually comes out each time the hair is washed off.
The colour can be striped of the hair by 6, 7, or 8 shampooing. The timing and development is affected by the salon
temperature, hair texture or hair porosity. Heat and poor hair condition may affect the timing /development (i.e.) speed up
the absorption of colour.

Advantages of using semi – permanent colour

- They remain on the hair longer time than temporally colours
- There is wide range to choose from
- Skin text is not usually required
- Forming agents within the colour helps to prevent colour from dripping and always check the manufacturer’s
instructions before use of the product
NB/ Semi –permanent colours may be made from;
a) Nitro – diamine
b) Nitrate amino pheriols
c) Picramic acids
They are correctively known as nitro dyes. The pigment molecules penetrate into the cuticles and the outer
cortex but are gradually removed by sub – sequent washing (i.e.) 6, 7or 8sahampooing
Penetrates inside the cuticles and outer cortex

Permanent colours
These are variety made in creams, semi – viscous or liquids
Most of them need to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide which oxidizes the main natural pigments and combine small
molecules of synthetic colours (permanent colourants). This process is called polymerization.

Small molecules
Tiny molecules are mixed with hydrogen peroxide. They pass through cuticles to the cortex.
NB/ penetrates inside the cortex and become enlarged.

large molecules
Artificial depth and tone is added
Lightening of the natural pigments can occur with some shades. The granules swell and join together becoming permanently
trapped inside the cortex

Quasi colours
These are neither semi –permanent nor permanent colours. They last more than semi –permanent but not longer than
permanent colours. They are stripped off the hair by 15 -20 shampooing.

EXTRACTION OF COLOURS
They are made from different colouring products made from different materials (e.g.) vegetable and mineral extractions
Vegetable extractions
They are made from flowers, stem back of the tree
a) Henna gives red colour – made from powdered leaves that gives red colour
b) Camomile – made from flowers of camomile that gives yellow pigments and colours the surface of the hair
only
c) Indigo – made from the flowers of indigo plant. Gives blue or black colour
d) Quasia – made from back of a tree. Often used with camomile. it’s a useful colour that brighten the hair
Other vegetable includes;
- Sumach
- Cubear
- Oak
- Sage
mineral and vegetable colouring
Consist of both vegetable and mineral extracts. One of the most common compound is henna which coats the hair surface
Mineral colourings
It’s divided in to two groups;
- metallic dyes
- Aniline derivatives tints
Metallic dyes – they are surface coating dyes and are also known as; progressive dyes, sulphide
Aniline derivatives tints (penetrating dyes) – they come from distillation of coal dyes. They are also known as synthetic
organic dyes. These includes; paraphynelinediamine, parataluenediamine.
These are referred as “Para dyes” permanent colours. They penetrate to the cortex of the hair as small molecules which are
then treated with the oxidizing agent (e.g.) hydrogen peroxide. This makes them combine into larger molecules which remain
trapped into the cortex. Shampooing cannot wash them out.

HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
Hydrogen peroxide is one of the common used oxidant agents. It can be mixed with a cream or liquid tints. The mixture
appears to colourless first but darken on exposure. When a mixture of hydrogen and tint is applied on the hair it penetrates
the cuticles in to the cortex where it bleaches the natural colour of the hair (pigments) and oxidizes the colourants. The tint
becomes locked into the cortex. To lighten the natural colour of the hair (colour up) uses higher strength of hydrogen
peroxide. To take the natural colour down into a darker shade, use lower strength of hydrogen peroxide.

Pre- lightening (light shade)

This is necessary when the natural colour is to be changed into a very light shade. Mixture of hydrogen peroxide and
ammonium hydroxide are applied or other bleaching agents may be used to make the hair lighter
Pre – softening (for resistant hair)
This is a technique use on a resistant hair. Dilute hydrogen peroxide and ammonium hydroxide are applied not to lighten but
to soften the cuticles. This makes it easier for colourant to penetrate into the hair.

Uses of hydrogen peroxide

- Used as oxidizing agent
- Aids the penetration of tints
- For pre – softening purpose
 - For pre - lightening purpose
Factors to consider when making right choice of a colour
The choice of colour depends on the following;
1. The client’s requirements
Consider the client’s;
- Age
- Lifestyle
- Job
- Fashion
- Dressing
- The colour the clients wears and make –up
A younger client goes for brighter colours but avoid bright colours that will counteract with the skin tone.
2. The natural hair colour
When the hair is dark, it may be necessary to lighten the hair before applying the synthetic colour
3. The client’s skin colour
The colour of the skin blends with the colour of the hair, so when applying colours, balance the colours carefully.
4. The hair texture
Fine hair tints more easily than coarse hair.
5. Condition and porosity of the hair.
Hair with good porosity will absorb colour easier and hair with smooth cuticle will take long time to process and the
results may be uneven.
6. Colouring products.
Test on the hair may indicate which product to use (e.g.) test may show that it’s correct to use light temporally
colour but there is no point of using it on a dark hair.
7. Shade of the colour sought.
A white haired client may want to have slight tone added. In case, a temporally or permanent colour may be best.
Light colours are more preferred than too heavy dark colours as they will match the skin colour.

Consultation
Before the application of the colours, the client may have different questions about the colourants and the cosmetologist
should be able to answer them.
Do the following before the colouring process;
1. Discuss with client the idea about the colouring
2. Consider the style and how colour may enhance it
3. Are there any colours that may influence the choice of the colour? (e.g.) the client’s life style , if the hair has being
previously coloured, permed
4. Analyze the choice of colour and consider effects of the colouring treatment on it.
5. Determine the hair’s condition (i.e.) porosity and elasticity
6. Refer to the client’s record card if available.
7. Decide what sort of colouring and agree with the client about the colour to use.
8. Refer to the colour chart to agree about the colour
9. Tell your client how long the service will take place.
10. Carefully read and understand manufacturer’s instructions before using the product.
11. Gown your client
12. When doing pre – shampooing avoid scratching the client’s scalp so that it will not became sensitive to the chemical
you are going to use.

Test before colouring

1. Skin tests / predisposition / patch test / sabourandrousseau test
Test do access if the colourant going to be used will react with the client’s skin. Test should be done 24hrs before
colouring.
2. Colour test – test done to know the suitability of the colour chosen, the processing time and the final outlook of the
colour. It’s done by cutting few strand of hair from the crown area then you apply the colour on the strand.
3. Porosity test – test to access the ability of the hair to absorb the colour
4. Elasticity test – test done on the hair to check the hair’s strength to withstand the colouring process without
breaking
 5. Incompatibility test – test done on the hair to determine if the products previously applied on the hair may react
with the colour going to be used.
6. Strand test – test done during processing to check the progress of the colour, if the colour is evenly applied

TINTING
The process whereby the synthetic colour penetrates the cuticles and is absorbed to the cortex. It’s then oxidized and remains
permanently. The choice of the colour and the rate of the hair growth affect how long the colour will last. The hair with
damaged cuticles with loose the colour more rapidly

Preparation
Ensure you consult the client, do the necessary test and examine the hair and skin then do the skin test within 24 – 48 hrs.
Before processing. Make sure you arrange all the required materials before you start.

Processing
Time the processing from the point all the hair has being tinted completely. Timing should be accurate. Too short time may
lead to under processing while too long time may lead to over processing. When timing is complete, carry out strand test to
check if the processing is enough to avoid over processing.

Sectioning
Section the hair from the Centre of the fore head up to the nape area and from one ear to the other ear across the crown
area. Then secure the sections in place using hair holding clips. When doing tinting, subsection about 6mm wide starting from
the crown area.

Mixing the tints

Don’t mix the tint until you are ready to start tinting. Once you tint, it need to be used immediately. If the proportion are
wrong, the results may not be as you wanted until you add peroxide.
Add the peroxide to the tint until you make sure its smooth.

Tinting aids
To activate the colouring process, the following can be used;
- Steamers
- Accelerators
- Roller balls
- Radiant heat
The applied heat causes the hair to swell and lift making it easier for the colourant to enter the cortex.

Removing the excess tint

This can be done by adding a little water, massage the area a little bit then clean it. Others require shampooing and avoid
ruffling the hair at this stage as it may be tangled.
If the skin stains, apply a little tint directly to the stain to soften it. Then rinse the skin totally. Don’t let the tint remain as long
as the colour will be more fixed. You can also use spirit to remove the tint.

COLOURING TECHNIQUES
Virgin hair
When colouring hair, the middle hair at the crown area is more resistant to tint.
The hair points (hair ends) are more porous, because they are more expose to the harsh weather. The roots are close to the
head, heat at which the tint is activated.
Begin by applying colour to the;
- Middle length
- Tips
- Finally to the roots
Regrowth tinting
This is the process of tinting, just the hair that has growth since the tint was applied last time.
The tint is applied to the hair roots only not to the midlengh. The processing and the rinsing is usual way

Tinting lighter or darker hair

To darken the hair – you will need too dark tint and not to use too much of the hydrogen peroxide.
To lighten the hair – need more of hydrogen peroxide to oxidize the pigments in the hair.
NB/ if the client needs to lighten the hair using many shades, you need to bleach the hair.

HAIR RESISTANCE
Some hair resist colour because the cuticles are not porous.
Hair is likely to tint easily in certain conditions.
1. If the has being recently being permed
2. If it usually take perm easily
3. If it curls easily and tightly
4. If it has being previously coloured
5. If it has being bleached
6. If its dry

Hair is likely to be resistance if;

1. If it takes perm slowly
2. If curls drops easily
3. If it has smooth cuticles
4. If it’s very greasy
5. If its coated with metallic dyes

NB/ white hair sometimes is resistant but often its more porous than pigmented hair.
If the hair has white patches, tint them last. If necessary, pre – soften the hair by applying dilute mixture of hydrogen
peroxide and ammonium hydroxide. This will cause the cuticle to lift and make the hair more porous.

Precautions when colouring the hair.

1. Always do a skin test 24 -48 hrs. before tinting
2. Do required test on the hair, like incompatibility test
3. Examine the hair and scalp for any contra – indications
4. Chose colours wisely, as wrong colour application will make client feel unsatisfied and he /she will have no
confidence
5. Don’t try make temporally colours do the work for permanent colours. Use products as instructed by the
manufacturer
6. Measure quantities accurately
7. Avoid using metal containers as it may result into hair discolorations
8. Avoid rubbing the scalp so harshly when pre - shampooing the hair
9. Protect hands by wearing rubber gloves
10. Remove excess water before tinting the hair to avoid dilution of the colourants
11. Keep the hair colourants away from the eyes
12. Use record card to fill the client’s details.

BLEACHING
Act of lightening the natural colour of the hair.
Bleach – chemical used to lighten the natural colour of the hair. It needs a ready supply of oxygen for it to be effect. Most
source of oxygen in the salon is hydrogen peroxide, which is colourless. Hydrogen peroxide is an oxidant which readily reacts
to produce a lot of oxygen. It’s very reactive, it needs to be stabilized by other chemicals. (e.g.) sulphur or phosphoric acid
and should be stored carefully to peroxide to work. This stabilizer should be concentrated by mixing with ammonium
hydroxide, sodium acetate or ammonium carbonate. This helps to activate the peroxide. When bleach is mixed with peroxide,
it works by making the hair to swell and the cuticles lift allowing the bleach to penetrate into the cortex. Here, oxygen
released from the peroxide reacts with the hair natural colour (pigments) making them colourless. As the melanin bleaches
the pheomelanin becomes more noticeable. As bleaching continues, the hair becomes lighter and lighter changing their
shades from dark brown to warm red to a very pale yellow. The shade and the final colour depend on proportion of
eumelanin and pheomelanin in the hair.
The bleach changes the hair from;
Black – Brown - Reddish brown - Reddish orange – Orange – Orange yellow – yellow – very yellow (almost white) – hair
disintegrates.

Over bleaching
Too much bleaching will destroy the structure of the hair. Before starting always process the the strand of the hair to see
how light it will be.
Over bleaching will be due to;
- Too strong peroxide
- Processing for too long
- Combing through previously bleached hair
- Strong peroxide with external heat (e.g.) hood dryer
NB/ even if over bleached hair doesn’t break, it becomes spongy and even more porous or unevenly coloured.

Natural bleaching
hair exposed to excessive heat and strong sunlight, its naturally bleached. It should be covered.
Hair exposed to sea water or chlorinated water should be rinsed well as soon as possible. Too much wind dries the hair and
lifts the hair cuticles therefore causing natural bleaching

Types of bleaches
1. Liquid bleach
This is basically ammonium hydroxide
1 mm of ammonium hydroxide is mixed with 20 -50 volume peroxide.
It bleaches 2 -3 bleaches
2. Oil bleach
Contain ammonium hydroxide and sulphorate oils or thickeners. It bleaches up to 4 shades
3. Cream emulsion and bleaches
These are thickeners
Contain alkalis (ammonium hydroxide) thickening agents, boosters or activators to provide additional oxygen. They
are also mixed with hydrogen peroxide and other oxidants
4. Powder and paste bleaches
They are made from magnesium and sodium carbonate, they are mixed with an oxidant, the commonly used
oxidants in the salon are hydrogen peroxide, sodium bromate and sodium paborate.

Choosing a bleach
-client
When a client ask for a bleach process, discuss what she has in mind. You can bleach the whole head, part of the head or the
hair tips (ends) only. Explain to your client that bleaching is like any other chemical process, it will affect the condition of the
hair. Once you have bleached the hair, the client needs to take special care of the hair while at home, and return to the salon
regularly for further treatment. There will be additional cost when maintaining the effects of bleaching.

Using hydrogen peroxide

The strength of the peroxide can be described in any of the following ways;
1. The volume strength
The amount of the oxygen that the peroxide can produce, one litre of30 volume of peroxide would produce 30litres
of oxygen.
2. Percentage strength
It shows how much of the peroxide solution is peroxide and the rest being water. (e.g.) 100g of 9% peroxide, there
will be 9g of peroxide and 91g of water.
 The strength can be measured using a peroxemeter.
-10 vol = 3%
-20 vol = 6%
-30 vol = 9%
-40 vol = 12%

Bleaching techniques
Bleaching all of the hair (virgin hair)
Preparation
- Consult your client and analyses the condition of the hair and scalp. Do a skin test 24 – 48hrs before bleaching
process.
- Make a test cutting to access the possible result.
- Drape your client properly.
- If the hair is greasy, shampoo it
- Make sure you have all the requirements before bleaching process.
- Base the hair line.
- Wear protective gloves.

Sectioning
- make four sections
- sub –section the hair into smaller section as you apply bleach
- Clip the other sections as you working on one section.
- Work methodically to avoid missing any part of the hair.
Oil bleach should be smaller, (about 6 -9 mm). for cream and paste bleaches, sections should be small still ( about 6 mm or
less).
As a general guide, use large sections for thin bleach and small sections for thick bleach. Hair quantity too helps to determine
the size of section to make.

Application
Mix the bleach so that it’s fresh, then apply it immediately. Start by applying at the darkest areas first. (usually at the crown
area)

Virgin hair
First to the middle length then leave 25mm of the hair, then apply hair tips and finally apply the roots.
Make sure the all the hair is covered.

Short hair approximately 140mm / less.

First to the middle length then ends together leaving about 12 – 25 mm of the roots without bleach when middle length and
the hair ends start to develop, apply the roots.
Avoid overlapping bleached hair / over porous areas. Overlapping with cause over processing. When application is complete,
check along the hair line particularly along the hair for full coverage.

Processing
Remember that bleach start developing releasing oxygen from the moment its applied. Carefully time the bleach process and
read manufacturers instruction
Always do a colour strand test to the development of the colour.
NB/ hair look darker when wet and when you are removing bleach from the hair strand, it will look lighter when dry. After
doing strand then you find out the development if sufficient, rinse off the bleach to avoid over bleaching / over processing.

Bleach removal
Use clean water to rinse the bleach from the hair. The scalp may be sensitive, so treat it with care.
After bleaching, you may feel the hair is rough to touch, so be careful when rinsing off the bleach to avoid tangling the hair.
Use oxidant or bleach balancer to formalize the hair (e.g.) neutralizing shampoo.
After neutralizing use hair conditioner to condition the hair.
Re – growth bleaching
After 2 – 3 weeks newly growth hair will become visible. The re – growth will require bleach if the colour is to be even. Apply
bleach to re – growth only. Do not overlap previously bleached hair.
Allow processing trill the hair bleached to the same level as the rest of the hair.
Remove the bleach carefully and condition the hair.

Bleaching some part of the hair

The following are some of the terms used to describe bleaching some parts of the hair.
1. Streaking – can be done by use of aluminum foil /perforated cap.
2. Tipping – application of the tips alone
3. Weaving
4. Scrunching
5. Slicing
6. Shimmering – sprinkle glitters on the hair.

Tinting back on bleached hair

It’s not easy to tint back into a natural colour. It’s easier to darken than to lighten.
As a woman age, her skin and colour fades
Resist the clients request for natural colour of 20yrs age.
The result will probably be too dark 2 – 3 shade lighter is more likely to be suitable. If the hair porous part, colour filling as
pigmentation is necessary.

Effects of the hydrogen peroxide volume

-10 vol up to / level lift
-20 vol - adequate deposit (2 level lift)
-30 vol – 3 level lift
-40 vol – 4 level lift

Precaution when bleaching

Always examine the hair and scalp and only bleach if the condition allow. Test the hair’s condition and porosity and strength
before bleaching. Apply bleach materials evenly at the correct strength. Never ever bleach hair is coated with metallic dyes
or compound hair colouring.
Don’t allow the bleach to dry, if you do, oxidation stop.
Never bleach hair in poor condition or which is porous. Always read and understand manufacturer’s instructions. When
rinsing, remove all trace of bleach.

Toning
This is the process of adding colour usually to lightened hair. The lightest toner can only be used on the lightest bleached
hair. If you use them on dark hair, the colour effect will be lost. You can mix colour together to produce a wide range (e.g.)
red on green produce brown.
- Red on yellow = orange
- Red on green = brown
- Blue on yellow =green
- Blue on red = purple / violet
- Violet and orange may be used to neutralize green
- Blue may be used to neutralize orange
Toner may be temporally, semi – permanent / permanent colour in dilute form. There are special made toners for use on
lightened hair. These are used as permanent colour.

Application and processing

Mixing of toner depends on the type used.
Toners are applied in the same as permanent colouring. You need to apply the toner evenly to get intended results.
Development and processing depends on the products used. Other toners require several applications.
 DECOLOURING
It’s the removal of colour on the hair, specifically removal of synthetic colouring.
Using colour reducer / strippers oxidation tints may be removed by reducing agents (sodium bisulphate and sodium
formaldehyde, sulphoxylate)
Most manufactures make special colour reducers for their products so use the same brand. Avoid using oxidants as they help
the colour to penetrate rather than removing it.
Compound henna, vegetables and mineral dyes can be removed by special colour reducers. Don’t use hydrogen peroxide as it
is incompatible.
Remove temporally and permanent colours by repeated washing.
NB/ if the hair is porous the colour filler is used or pigmentations is done.

Application and processing

To remove oxidation dyes and a “Para” aniline derivative dyes from the hair.
1. Wash and dry the hair
2. Mix correct colour remover ( read manufacturers instruction)
3. Apply discolourant on the area to be lightened (use a brush )
4. Allow the reducer to act, preferably uncovered and without heat
5. Processing takes 10 – 30 minutes with some products. Processing can be speed up by covering the hair with a
plastic cap placing under a warm dryer, steamers, and accelerator.
6. When developed remove excess chemicals by washing and normalizing the hair. (if you don’t do this thoroughly,
you will have to repeat the decolouring)
7. When decolouring process is complete, make a peroxide test to check that there are no synthetic pigments
remaining. Synthetic colour will oxidize later and darken again in 2 – 3 days. The test shows whether decolouring
process has been effective. If the hair darkens after testing, remove all chemicals from the hair, then re – apply the
decolourant. It may take several applications to strip off all of the unwanted colour.

Re – colouring after de – colouring

Varies according to the products used.
Don’t use any chemical process after decolouring.

FILLERS
They are special treatments in form of creams, liquid and used to equalize hair’s porosity and deposit a shade for the colour.

Types of fillers
1. Colour fillers
They are recommended if the hair damaged and if there is doubt that the colour may come out unevenly.
Advantages of using colour filler
- Prevents hair from breaking and fading.
- Helps hair to hold colour
- Gives hair added sheen (prevents dullness)
2. Conditioner fillers
Used to recondition the hair that has being damaged by the salon services. Can be applied before colour
application.
Advantages of using conditioner filler
- Adds sheen to hair.
- Recondition the hair
How to use fillers
Fillers may be added to the tint and applied to the damaged hair. They can be diluted with water to reduce strength
depending with the hair condition.
They can be applied directly to the damaged hair.
NB/ the porosity are equalized because porous areas of the hair shaft absorb more colour more than less porous hair. The
colour filler is a mixture of protein (keratin) which is applied directly at the cuticles. Colour filler are used to make the hair
colour easier and successful.
 SALON MANAGEMENT
When planning to open a solon, give a careful consideration in every aspect of running a business

Points to consider when locating a salon

1. Location
Choose a location which has a large population under other active business places (e.g.) restaurants, supermarkets,
departmental stores, near colleges etc. which attracts more clients.
2. Visibility
Salon should be vivid and eye catching to attract clients.
3. Competition
Its good to locate salon where there are no many salons
4. Study of potential clients
Talk to the other owners of business to know how well they think a salon would work in that area.
5. Study the lease
This is an agreement between the owner of the building and the tents, about the duration and the payments.
Before signing the lease be sure you understand the terms and conditions,
Have a lawyer to help you.

6. Parking facilities.
When selecting a size for new business consider the parking facilities because people avoid salons that are
inconvenient to reach
Other factors include
- Security
- Water
- Transport
- Capital

Causes of the salon failure

1. Lack of enough capital to carry out salon processes until it’s stable
2. Lack of experience
3. Poor choice of location
4. Too high expenses
5. Poor hygiene

Contributing factors to salon success

1. Well trained and experienced staffs
2. Good management
3. Completion between collogues
4. Sufficient investments
5. Good location of the salon
6. High standards of hygiene

Good salon requirements

1. A dispensary
2. Clean ventilation and wash rooms
3. Enough working station
4. Good lighting
5. Enough dust bins
6. Adequate storage space
7. Beverages (optional)
8. Clean drinking water
9. Changing room
10. Room where the clients and staff can take their meals (e.g.) café

Advertisements
This includes all that attracts the attention the clients to the salon. It should create a valuable impression top the public. It
must attract and hold readers, listeners or viewers’ attention to create a desire for beauty services.
You can advertise your salon through;
1. Radio
2. Television
3. News papers
4. Magazines
5. Promotions
6. Posters etc.

Good business administration

This require to keeping of records of the salon. All salon transactions must be recorded for future reference.
Income is usually classified as receipt from the services offered in the salon.
Expenses include;
- Rent
- Insurance
- Salaries
- Advertisement
- Equipment
- Repairs
All the receipts involved during any expense should be kept.

Importance of daily records

1. To make comparison with other years
2. To detect any changes in demand for different services
3. Check on the use of materials according to the services rendered
4. To control expenses and waste

NB/ keeping of sale records will also help you to prevent overstocking or running out of supplies.
Appointment records help the cosmetologist to arrange the working time to suit the client’s convenience.

Business laws for the salon

1. Regulations, business law and insurance.
While conducting a business is important to comply with local regulations. Usually covers the building renovations,
minor and major repairs to the building.
2. Federal law ( malipo ya uzeeni)
Covers social securing and employers compensation or insurance
3. Insurance
Body that covers salon against the risks (e.g.) fire
4. State law ( pay as you earn)
Covers sales, taxes, licenses and work men compensation.
5. Income tax law
Are covered by both state and federal government

Selling in the salon

Principles (selling principles)
1. Be familiar with the merits and benefits of each service product
2. Be self-confident
3. Stimulate attention, interest, and desire which are the steps leading to the sale
4. Never miss represent any of your services or products
5. Use tactful language, avoid being rude and have good behavior.
To sell a product or service, deliver the service in a friendly manner. If possible demonstrate how to use the product.

Business ownership
A salon may be owned and operated by an individual, partnership or co –operation.
1. Individual ownership (sole pro – creatorship)
The pro- creator is the owner and the manager.
He / she determines policies and makes decision
 2. Partnership
More capital is available to invest
The combined ability and experience makes it easier to share work and responsibility and make decisions.
Profit is equally shared.
3. Co –operation
Co - operation is subjected to taxation and regulation by sate. The management is in the bonds of boards of
directors, who determine policies and makes decisions in accordance with the co – operation charter.
The profits are shared as per the number of shares owned by each state holder. The state holder is not responsible
for any loss.

Working relationship
Successfulness of a salon requires the commitment of each member of staff.
To ensure equality is maintained at all the level of providing services, there must be a positive a working relationship.
This can only be achieved when employees;
- Liaise with the colleagues
- Liaise with the clients
- Improve personal effectiveness

Liaising with the colleagues and clients

Good working relationship between colleagues in the work place is essential
The following is important to achieve good working relationship;
1. Job roles and responsibilities
It’s important to know the job roles one is qualified to undertake.
Job description helps one to know what is expected from him / her
- Personal standards of health and hygiene
- Personal appearance and conduct
- Observing safety precautions while at work place
2. Effective communication between staffs and clients
Hold meeting to establish problems occurring at work place
Clients can be made to feel intimidated or uncomfortable or ignored even without talking to thethem, so be happy,
smile and make good eye conduct.
3. Positive relationship
Working in a stressful environment will affect the effectiveness of the workers.
Dispute must be resolved immediately
4. General code of conduct
Always be polite and courteous with the colleagues and clients at all times.
- Never talk down to your clients and fellow colleagues
- Never loose temper in front of your clients
- Settle grievances as soon as possible

Good communication helps to achieve the following;

1. Promoting yourself and gaining customer’s confidence
2. Developing professional relationship with the clients
3. Establishing the client’s needs
4. Promote services and treatments.

Working under pressure

Sometimes you may be very busy and feeling tired, it’s not the client’s problem, so you should be cheerful, courteous and
helpful.
With effective team work this can be overcomed
As an employee you should be able to cope with the unexpected, like;
- Client arrive late for appointments
- Client’s treatment over running the allocated time
- Double booking two client who are requiring the same service at the same time
- Arrival of unscheduled clients
- Changes to the bookings
How to avoid client’s dis – satisfactions
- Always do thorough consultation before doing any service
- Regularly check the client’s satisfaction as you attend to him / her
- Inform your client of any disruptions
Always compensate for any inconvenience caused by disruption of the service.

How to improve personal effectiveness

Can be achieved through fulfilling your job role, setting yourself targets and appraisal

Fulfilling your job role

Can be achieved through the following
1. Image - A professional image creates confidence
2. Standard - Maintain your salon standards
Never use products or equipment that you are not familiar with.
3. Targets - They are set by employers. They one to attain a certain goal
4. Punctuality - ensures that you don’t keep your clients waiting
5. Absence from work – it’s important if a member of staff is going to be absent from work other salon staffs to review
the daily work schedule to minimize disruptions.

Appraisal
This is where the supervisor identifies and discusses with each indivintual their strength and weaknesses and area within
their professional role which requires further training.
Example of performance appraisal
NAME: Daisy Kelly
JOB TITTLE: Training in hairdressing and therapy
DATE OF APPRAISAL 16th august 2013
OBJECTIVE To obtain competence in pw
NOTES ON THE ACHIEVEMENTS Competence has been achieved for most of pw
TRAINING REQUIRED Further training and practice on winding techniques
ACTION PLAN To achieve the intended winding techniques
To undertake assessment in winding techniques
DATE OF THE NEXT APPRAISAL 20th September 2013

How to develop job role

1. Attending trend seminars
2. Sub – scribing to professional magazines
3. Watch your colleagues with more experience at they do their work
4. Developing your portfolio
5. Being punctual

HEALTH, SAFETY AND SECURITY

Security
In any working environment, security is necessary to guard against the interest of customers, staffs and company property.
All staff should be security minded and they should report anything of suspicious nature.
The security officer should be informed with arrangement regarding;
- Suspicious person or behavior
- Keys and lock
- Bom threats
- Fire precautions
- Inspection checking
- Proper identification of the people entering the premises
- Provision of safety deposit boxes (first aid kit)
Health
Health is a general condition at which a person’s body is free from diseases causing micro – organism. A general hygienic
working environment is needed in order to provide a health environment to the customer staffs.

Health hazards
Refers to the various causes of un health working environment
Working environment should be clean and health hazards be prevented from any environment.

Safety
It’s the measure taken to make sure various health hazards are prevented. Act regulation 1974 renewed at 1981 under this
act, that the employer must Provide and maintain equipment and provide safety working practices in;
- Storage, handling and transporting of substances with maximum safety.
- Information, instruction, training and supervision to ensure the health of employees
- Safe exist and access to the place of work
- Good working environment without risks with adequate facilities like rest rooms, washing sinks.
- Written statements of general policy which should be displayed where employee can see them properly
NB/ employee should take good care of themselves, colleagues and people within the premises

Major health hazards

Health hazards could be through accidents
The following are some of the safety hazards that are most likely to occur in any working place and especially in a solon.
1. Falls – this can occur because of slippery floor, faulty ladder, faulty stairs, fallen articles etc.
2. Cuts and abrasion – cut can cause body wounds.
This could be by;
-careless placing of sharp objects like blade
-careless disposal of broken items
-careless opening of tins and chemical containers
-falling objects
3. Burn – caused by dry heat
4. Scalds – caused by moist heat
5. Asphyxiation – lack of normal breathing
It causes one to die or lose consciousness
6. Lifting injuries – may be caused by trying to lift heavy things or lifting incorrectly

NB/ Records should be kept for all accidents by noting them down in an accident book / form
This book should state ;
1. Personal particulars of people injured (e.g.) – address, name, age, occupation etc.
2. Date and type of accidents
3. Causes and description of the accident
4. Treatment given
5. Witnesses

How to prevent accidents

1. Use of correct working methods
2. Making sure the working station is very tidy
3. Making sure all items are stored in safe place
4. Making sure that floor is dry and clean
5. Need for warning signs
6. Wearing correct shoes and clothing

Fire precautions
Fire outbreaks are common and dangerous
In any work place, a fire certificate is required and fire precaution act 1971 introduces rectifying the situation. Salon staffs
should be aware of;
- Smoking in unsafe place
 - Not reporting faulty electrical equipment and sockets
- Not unplugging electrical appliances
NB/ before fire certificate is issued the fire authorities must be satisfied with the requirements
(e.g.)
1. Means of escape and how they can be used
2. Means of giving warning of fire outbreaks
3. Staff training
4. Fire detectors
5. Instructions to the guests

Firefighting equipment
They include the following;
1. Water baskets – used on the small fires
2. Sand – used to small fire and if its dry can be used on the electrical fire
They are more effective than baskets of water
3. Fire blankets – put off small fires like if somebody catches fire
4. Fire extinguishers
They came in different types depending on the content and which fire they put off / fight
Types of fire extinguishers are mostly distinguished by their colours

Extinguisher content Types of fire they put off

colour code
Red Water or soda acid Fabric fires, paper fires
Blue Dry powder All risks of fire, flammable liquids, gases
Cream Foam Flammable liquids, fat fires
Green b.c.f or halon Electric fire, flammable liquid
black Carbon dioxide Electrical fires, flammable liquids

Classes of fire
1. Class A – fire involving solid materials such as wood, paper or textile. Anything that burns then it catches fire. Use
water to put it off
2. Class B – involving flammable liquids such as petrol, diesel or oils. Use something that has smothering affects which
depletes the oxygen supply work will work best to extinguish class B fire.
3. Class C – fire involving electrical fire. Always de – energize the circuit then use a non – conductive extinguisher
agent such as carbon dioxide
4. Class D – fire involving metals such as magnesium and titanium. Use dry powder to put it off
5. Class K – fire involving cooking oils and grease such as animal fats and vegetable fats. Use purple k, the typical
agent found in kitchen. You can also use galley extinguisher.

Fire aids
It’s a treatment given to a patient before being taken to a qualified doctor or physician for proper treatment

Aims of first aid

1. To preserve life
2. Prevent the condition from worsening
3. Promotes recovery
An employee must provide sufficient first aid equipment and facilities and must inform his employer of the first aid
arrangement made.
The first aid regulation place a duty on employer to;
1. Make an adequate provision of the first aid facilities
2. Have sufficient first aiders
3. Make first aid provisions where hazards are concerned
4. Inform all staffs about the first aid provisions

First aid kit should be kept in working stations

It contains the following;
- Bandage
 - Scissors
- Safety pins
- Antiseptics
- Pain killers
- Cotton wool etc.

Major accidents
1. Burns and scalds - Burns are caused by flames or electricity and scald is caused by moist heat
Burns are classified into 3 degree depending on what extent of the burn.
- First degree burn – redness of the skin
- Second degree burn – skin has watering blisters which later breaks
- Third degree burn – involves the structure of the flesh and injuries of the inner tissues.
Treatment - put ice cubes immediately to the affected are and then consult the physician
2. Cuts and abrasions – when the skin is cut, broken or scratched.
Treatment - wash the area well with cold water then apply antiseptic (e.g.) iodine, Roberts etc.
Cover the wound with the bandage to prevent infections.
3. Electric shock
Use any wooden substance to remove the person from the electricity but make sure that the main switch is put off.
Treatment- loosens any tight clothes and put the victim at a place where the head is raised and put something
clean in the mouth to prevent tongue biting.
Caution – never apply any kind of stimulation to the victim as too high temperature increase heart beat
4. Fainting
Causes are;
- of enough blood flow to the brain
- Bad air / unpleasant odour
- Indigestion
- Nervous condition
When a client says she is feeling dizzy, it means she is about to faint. Make her hold the head between his / her
knees. This action may improve the condition by causing the blood to flow down the brain.
Treatment;
- Loosen all tight cloths and make sure there is fresh air in the room.
- Place the patient in position with head slightly lower than the rest of the body.
- If the patient is unconscious, apply cold application on the face, chest and over the heart.
- When the person gains conscious, offer some stimulations
Caution
Don’t pour water on the patient’s body
5. Nose bleeding – blood coming from the nose
Treatment – loosen the cloths and apply a pad saturated with cold water to the face and at the back of the neck.
You can pitch the nose if the patient is seated.
6. Heat exhaustion
Cause is;
- Brain depression due to accumulation of the heat in the brain.
Treatment – loosen tight cloths and put the victim in a cool place. Let the person lay down for several minutes in
quiet place to fasten recovery.
7. Epileptic fit – this is a disorder characterized by foaming of the mouth and rolling of the eyes
Treatment;
1. Call for the immediate medical attention
2. Lay the victim on the side
3. To avoid tongue biting make sure you put something clean inside the mouth
4. After recovery, the patient can be given milk to drink or stimulation
NB/ When the patient fall to deep sleep, he /she should not be woken up /disturbed but be allowed to wake at
is own.
8. Artificial respiration
This is done to the victim poisoning, electric shock, fainting and suffocation.
It’s done by either breathing from mouth to mouth or mouth to nose.
 DEVELOPING AND MAINTAINING TEAM WORK RELATION
Objectives
- To develop and maintain effective team work and relationship with colleagues at a place of work
- To develop and improve personal effectiveness with the job role by participating in various development activities.

Team work
It’s an activity where members of a certain group carry work cohesively while they are part contributing to the sequence of
activities lather than to common task.

Relation
The interaction between each member of a given group. Good cooperation will bring about existing amongst the salon staffs
hence effective services.

Effectiveness
It’s an aspect related to personality that contributes success to public, social skills and positive mental attitudes in order to
uncover the character

Reasons for a good team work

1. Builds a good relationship amongst the staffs and this enhance job effectiveness
2. It helps cover our mistakes, clients will not realize
3. It improves salon repetition
4. It helps increase profit
5. It leads to the efficient provision a salon’s services and protect the clients

Team work and good relationship at work is effective by different levels. The levels are observed under experience and
feeling towards their provision in relation to payment
These groups are;
1. Undeveloped team
Represent unskilled members of the party who earn very little
2. The experimenting team
Represents unskilled members of the party who are learning but not very experienced.
3. Consolidating team
Mainly made up of skilled professional who earn higher salaries depending on the level of skills
4. Mature team
Made up of the management staff.
In this group feelings are discussed and wide range of option is considered and working method of leadership styles
are considered

How to develop and maintain effective team work and relationship

1. Respond willing to a request for assistance
2. Make request in a courteous manner
3. Clarify with the relevant person for clear information and instructions
4. Report any problem that is likely to affect the salon services
5. Contribute to the promotion of harmony with the team by considering their action of work

How to develop effectiveness at work place

1. Putting important things first
2. Always be active by taking responsibilities and activities
3. Put things on a winning side ( be optimistic )
4. Develop good listening skill so that you can understand your clients well

How to develop and improve effectiveness within the job role

1. You should like your job
2. Measure your strength and weakness
3. Establish a good job description and your work should be within the established role.

4. Set various target

Targets should be inform of;
-profit expectation
-number of clients attended in the salon