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The Project Gutenberg eBook of Head-hunters,
black, white, and brown
 This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United
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Title: Head-hunters, black, white, and brown

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HEAD-HUNTERS,

BLACK, WHITE, AND BROWN ***
 HEAD-HUNTERS
BLACK, WHITE, AND BROWN
THE SCOTT-KELTIE FALLS, MOUNT DULIT, BARAM DISTRICT, SARAWAK

HEAD-HUNTERS
BLACK, WHITE, AND BROWN

BY
ALFRED C. HADDON, Sc.D., F.R.S.
FELLOW OF CHRIST’S COLLEGE
AND UNIVERSITY LECTURER IN ETHNOLOGY, CAMBRIDGE

WITH THIRTY-TWO PLATES, FORTY ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT

AND SIX MAPS

METHUEN & CO.

36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
LONDON
1901
TO

MY WIFE
AND
TO THE MEMORY OF

MY MOTHER
WHO FIRST TAUGHT ME TO OBSERVE
 I DEDICATE
THIS RECORD OF MY TRAVELS
 PREFACE
In 1888 I went to Torres Straits to study the coral reefs and
marine zoology of the district; whilst prosecuting these studies I
naturally came much into contact with the natives, and soon was
greatly interested in them. I had previously determined not to study
the natives, having been told that a good deal was known already
about them; but I was not long in discovering that much still
remained to be learned. Indeed, it might be truly said that practically
nothing was known of the customs and beliefs of the natives, even
by those who we had every reason to expect would have acquired
that information.
Such being the case, I felt it to be my duty to gather what
information I could when not actually engaged in my zoological
investigations. I found, even then, that the opportunities of learning
about the pagan past of the natives were limited, and that it would
become increasingly more difficult, as the younger men knew
comparatively little of the former customs and beliefs, and the old
men were dying off.
On my return home I found that my inquiries into the ethnography
of the Torres Straits islanders were of some interest to
anthropologists, and I was encouraged to spend some time in
writing out my results. Gradually this has led me to devote myself to
anthropological studies, and, not unnaturally, one of my first projects
was to attempt a monograph on the Torres Straits Islanders. It was
soon apparent that my information was of too imperfect a nature to
make a satisfactory memoir, and therefore I delayed publishing until
I could go out again to collect further material.
In course of time I was in a position to organise an expedition for
this purpose, which, being mainly endowed from University funds,
had the honour of being closely associated with the University of
Cambridge. It was my good fortune to be able to secure the co-
operation of a staff of colleagues, each of whom had some special
qualification.
For a long time it had appeared to me that investigations in
experimental psychology in the field were necessary if we were ever
to gauge the mental and sensory capabilities of primitive peoples.
This expedition presented the requisite opportunity, and the
organisation of this department was left to Dr. W. H. R. Rivers, of St.
John’s College, the University lecturer in physiological and
experimental psychology. The co-operation of Dr. C. S. Myers, of
Caius College, had been secured early, and as he is a good musician,
he specialised more particularly in the study of the hearing and
music of the natives. Mr. W. McDougall, Fellow of St. John’s College,
also volunteered to assist in the experimental psychology
department of the expedition.
When the early arrangements were being made one of the first
duties was to secure the services of a linguist, and the obvious
person to turn to was Mr. Sidney H. Ray, who has long been a
recognised authority on Melanesian and Papuan languages.
Fortunately, he was able to join the expedition.
Mr. Anthony Wilkin, of King’s College, took the photographs for the
expedition, and he assisted me in making the physical
measurements and observations. He also investigated the
construction of the houses, land tenure, transference of property,
and other social data of various districts.
When this book was being brought out the sad news arrived in
England of the death by dysentery of my pupil, friend, and colleague
in Cairo on the 17th of May (1901), on his return home from a
second winter’s digging in Upper Egypt. Poor Wilkin! barely twenty-
four years of age, and with the promise of a brilliant career before
him. I invited him to accompany me while he was still an
undergraduate, having been struck by his personal and mental
qualities. He was a man of exceptional ability and of frank, pleasing
manner, and a thorough hater of humbug. Although he was
originally a classical scholar, Wilkin read for the History Tripos, but
his interests were wider than the academic course, and he paid
some attention to sociology, and was also interested in natural
science. In his early undergraduate days he published a brightly
written book, On the Nile with a Camera. Immediately after his first
winter’s digging in Egypt with Professor Flinders Petrie, he went with
Mr. D. Randall-Maciver to Algeria to study the problem of the
supposed relationship, actual or cultural, of the Berbers with the
Ancient Egyptians. An interesting exhibition of the objects then
collected was displayed at the Anthropological Institute in the
summer (1900), and later in the year Wilkin published a well-written
and richly illustrated popular account of their experiences, entitled,
Among the Berbers of Algeria. Quite recently the scientific results
were published in a sumptuously illustrated joint work entitled,
Libyan Notes. Wilkin was an enthusiastic traveller, and was
projecting important schemes for future work. There is little doubt
that had he lived he would have distinguished himself as a
thoroughly trained field-ethnologist and scientific explorer.
Finally, Mr. C. G. Seligmann volunteered to join the party. He paid
particular attention to native medicine and to the diseases of the
natives as well as to various economic plants and animals.
Such was the personnel of the expedition. Several preliminary
communications have been published by various members; but the
complete account of our investigations in Torres Straits is being
published by the Cambridge University Press in a series of special
memoirs. The observations made on the mainland of British New
Guinea and in Sarawak will be published in various journals as
opportunity offers.
The book I now offer to the public contains a general account of
our journeyings and of some of the sights we witnessed and facts
that we gleaned.
I would like to take this opportunity of expressing my thanks to
my comrades for all the assistance they have rendered me, both in
the field and at home. I venture to prophesy that when all the work
of the expedition is concluded my colleagues will be found to have
performed their part in a most praiseworthy manner.
Our united thanks are due to many people, from H.H. the Rajah of
Sarawak down to the least important native who gave us
information. Wherever we went, collectively or individually, we were
hospitably received and assisted in our work. Experience and
information were freely offered us, and what success the expedition
has attained must be largely credited to these friends.
I cannot enumerate all who deserve recognition, but, taking them
in chronological order, the following rendered us noteworthy service.
The Queensland Government, through the Hon. T. J. Byrnes, then
Premier, sent us the following cordial welcome by telegraph on our
arrival at Thursday Island:—

“Permit me on behalf of Government to welcome you and

your party to Queensland and to express our sincere hope
that your expedition will meet with the success which it
deserves. We shall be glad if at any time we can afford any
assistance towards the object of the expedition or to its
individual members, and trust that you will not hesitate to
advise us if we can be of service to you. Have asked Mr.
Douglas to do anything in his power and to afford you any
information concerning the objects of your mission he may be
in a position to impart.”

The Hon. John Douglas, c.m.g., the Government Resident at

Thursday Island, not merely officially, but privately and of his
spontaneous good nature, afforded us every facility in his power.
Through his kind offices the Queensland Government made a special
grant of £100 towards the expenses of the expedition, and in
connection with this a very friendly telegram was sent by the late Sir
James R. Dickson, k.c.m.g., who was then the Home Secretary.
 The Government of British New Guinea did what it could to further
our aims. Unfortunately, His Excellency Sir William Macgregor,
k.c.m.g., m.d., Sc.D., the then Lieutenant-Governor of the Possession,
was away on a tour of inspection during my visit to the Central
District; but he afterwards showed much kindness to Seligmann. The
Hon. A. Musgrave, of Port Moresby, was most cordial and helpful,
and we owe a great deal to him. The Hon. D. Ballantine, the
energetic Treasurer and Collector of Customs, proved himself a very
good friend and benefactor to the expedition. The Hon. B. A. Hely,
Resident Magistrate of the Western Division, helped us on our way,
and we are greatly indebted in many ways to Mr. A. C. English, the
Government Agent of the Rigo District.
All travellers to British New Guinea receive many benefits directly
and indirectly from the New Guinea Mission of the London
Missionary Society. Everywhere we went we were partakers of the
hospitality of the missionaries and South Sea teachers; the same
genuine friendliness and anxiety to help permeates the whole staff,
so much so that it seems invidious to mention names, but the great
assistance afforded us by the late Rev. James Chalmers deserves
special recognition, as does also the kindness of Dr. and Mrs. Lawes.
The Mission boats were also freely placed at our disposal as far as
the service of the Mission permitted; but for this liberality on the part
of Mr. Chalmers we should several times have been in an awkward
predicament. If any words of mine could induce any practical
assistance being given to the Mission I would feel most gratified, for
I sadly realise that our indebtedness to the Mission can only be
acknowledged adequately by proxy.
It is a sad duty to chronicle the irreparable loss which all those
who are connected with British New Guinea have undergone in the
tragic death of the devoted Tamate. Mrs. Chalmers died in the
autumn of 1900 under most distressing circumstances in the Mission
boat when on her way to Thursday Island. A few months later, when
endeavouring to make peace during a tribal war on the Aird River,
Chalmers crowned a life of hardship and self-sacrifice by martyrdom
in the cause of peace. A glorious end for a noble life. With him were
murdered twelve native Mission students and the Rev. O. Tomkins, a
young, intelligent, and enthusiastic missionary, from whom much
was expected.
Very pleasing is it to record the brotherly kindness that we
received at the hands of the Sacred Heart Mission. None of our party
belonged to their Communion, but from the Archbishop to the
lowliest Brother we received nothing but the friendliest treatment.
Nor would we omit our thanks to the good Sisters for the cheerful
way in which they undertook the increased cares of catering which
our presence necessitated. The insight which we gained into the
ethnography of the Mekeo District is solely due to the good offices of
the various members of the Sacred Heart Mission.
In the course of the following pages I often refer to Mr. John
Bruce, the Government Schoolmaster on Murray Island. It would be
difficult to exaggerate the influence he exerts for good by his
instruction, advice, and unostentatious example. His help and
influence were invaluable to us, and when our researches are finally
published, anthropologists will cordially admit how much their
science owes to “Jack Bruce.”
We found Mr. Cowling, of Mabuiag, very helpful, not only at the
time but subsequently, as he has since sent us much valuable
information, and he also deserves special thanks.
Our visit to Sarawak was due to a glowing invitation I received
from Mr. Charles Hose, the Resident of the Baram District. I have so
frequently referred in print and speech to his generosity and
erudition, that I need only add here that his University has conferred
on him the greatest honour it is in her power to bestow—the degree
of Doctor in Science honoris causa.
But it was Rajah Sir Charles Brooke’s interest in the expedition
that made many things possible, and to him we offer our hearty
thanks, both for facilities placed at our disposal and for the
expression of his good-will.
 At Kuching we received great hospitality from the white residents.
Particular mention must be made of the Hon. C. A. Bampfylde,
Resident of Sarawak; on our arrival he was administrating the
country in the absence of the Rajah, who was in England; nor should
Dr. A. J. G. Barker, Principal Medical Officer of Sarawak, and Mr. R.
Shelford, the Curator of the Museum, be omitted.
Great kindness and hospitality were shown us by Mr. O. F. Ricketts,
Resident of the Limbang District. We had a most enjoyable visit to
his beautiful Residency, and he arranged for us all the details of our
journey up-river.
One fact through all our journeyings has continually struck me.
Travellers calmly and uninvitedly plant themselves on residents by
whom they are received with genuine kindness and hospitably
entertained with the best that can be offered. Experience,
information, and influence are cheerfully and ungrudgingly placed at
the disposal of the guests, who not unfrequently palm off, without
acknowledgment, on an unsuspecting public the facts that others
have gleaned.
The warm welcome that one receives is as refreshing to the spirit
as the shower-bath is to the body and daintily served food to the
appetite when one has been wandering in the wilds.
In order to render my descriptions of the places and people more
continuous I have practically ignored the exact order in which events
happened or journeys were made. For those who care about
chronology I append a bare statement of the location of the various
members of the expedition at various times. I have also not
hesitated to include certain of my experiences, or some of the
information I gained, during my first expedition to Torres Straits in
1888-9; but the reader will always be able to discriminate between
the two occasions.

1898.
March 10th. Left London.
April 22nd. Arrived Thursday Island, where joined by Seligmann.
April 30th. Left Thursday Island.
May 6th. Arrived Murray Island.
May 23rd. Haddon, Ray, Wilkin, and Seligmann left for New
Guinea.
June 25th. Seligmann went to Rigo.
July 20th. Haddon, Ray, and Wilkin returned from New Guinea
to Murray Island.
August 24th. Myers and McDougall left Murray Island for Sarawak.
Sept. 8th. Haddon, Rivers, Ray, and Wilkin left Murray Island for
Kiwai.
Sept. 12th. Seligmann arrived at Saguane.
Sept. 15th. Haddon, Rivers, Wilkin, Seligmann left Saguane for
Mabuiag.
Sept. 17th. Arrived Mabuiag.
Oct. 3rd. Ray came from Saguane.
Oct. 19th. Rivers left to return home.
Oct. 21st. Wilkin left to return home.
Oct. 22nd. Haddon, Ray, Seligmann left for Saibai, etc.
Nov. 15th. Left Thursday Island.
Nov. 28th. Arrived Hongkong.
Dec. 3rd. Left Hongkong.
Dec. 9th. Arrived Singapore.
Dec. 10th. Left Singapore.
Dec. 12th. Arrived Kuching.
1899.
Jan. 4th. Left Kuching for Baram.
Jan. 8th. Arrived Limbang.
Jan. 16th. Left Limbang.
Jan. 28th. Arrived Marudi (Claudetown).
April 20th. Left Marudi.
April 25th. Left Kuching.
May 31st. Arrived in London.

The following is the system of spelling which has been adopted in

this book:—

a as in “father.”
ă as in “at.”
e as a in “date.”
ĕ as in “debt.”
i as ee in “feet.”
ĭ as in “it.”
o as in “own.”
ŏ as in “on.”
ö as German ö in “schön.”
ò as aw in “law.”
u as oo in “soon.”
ŭ as in “up.”
ai as in “aisle.”
au as ow in “cow.”

The consonants are sounded as in English.

ng as in “sing.”
ngg as in “finger.”
 CONTENTS

PART I

CHAPTER I
THURSDAY ISLAND TO MURRAY ISLAND
Port Kennedy, Thursday Island—l’assage in the Freya
to Murray Island—Darnley Island—Arrival at
Murray Island—Reception by the natives Page 1-10
CHAPTER II
THE MURRAY ISLANDS
Geographical features of the islands of Torres Straits
—Geology of the Murray Islands—Climate—The
Murray Islanders—Physical and other
characteristics—Form of Government Page 11-21
CHAPTER III
WORK AND PLAY IN MURRAY ISLAND
The Expedition Dispensary—Investigations in
Experimental Psychology: visual acuity, colour
vision, mirror writing, estimation of time, acuity
of hearing, sense of smell and taste,
sensitiveness to pain—The Miriam language—
Methods of acquiring information—Rain-making
—Native amusements—Lantern exhibition—
String puzzles—Top-spinning—Feast—Copper
Maori Page 22-41
CHAPTER IV
THE MALU CEREMONIES
Initiation ceremonies—Secret societies—Visit to Las
—Representation of the Malu ceremonies—
Models of the old masks—The ceremonies as
formerly carried out—“Devil belong Malu” Page 42-52
CHAPTER V.
ZOGOS
The Murray Island oracle, Tomog Zogo—The village
of Las—Tamar—The war-dance at Ziriam Zogo—
Zabarker—Wind-raising—Teaching Geography at
Dam—Tamar again—A Miriam “play”—How
Pepker made a hill—Iriam Moris, the fat man—
Zogo of the girl of the south-west—
Photographing zogos—The coconut zogo—A
turtle zogo—The big women who dance at night
—The Waiad ceremony Page 53-70
CHAPTER VI
VARIOUS INCIDENTS IN MURRAY ISLAND
Our “boys” in Murray Island—“Gi, he gammon”—
Character of some of our native friends—Ulai—
Rivalry between Debe Wali and Jimmy Rice—
Our Royal Guests—The Papuan method of
smoking—A domestic quarrel—Debe and Jimmy
fall out—An earthquake—Cause of a hurricane—
The world saved from a comet by three weeks
of prayer—an unaccounted-for windstorm—New
Guinea magic—“A woman of Samaria”—Jimmy
Rice in prison—A yam zogo—Rain-makers—A
death-dealing zogo—Mummies—Skull-divination
—Purchasing skulls—A funeral Page 71-94
CHAPTER VII
KIWAI AND MAWATTA
Leave Murray Island in the Nieue—Daru—Arrive at
Saguane—Mission-work—Visit Iasa—Long clan
houses—Totems and totemistic customs—Bull-
roarers and human effigies as garden charms
and during initiation ceremonies—Head-hunting
—Stone implements—Origin of Man—Origin of
Fire—Primitive dwellings at Old Mawatta—Shell
hoe—Katau or Mawatta—Election of a chief—A
love story—Dances—Bamboo beheading-knife Page 95-116
CHAPTER VIII
MABUIAG
Mabuiag revisited—Character of the island—
Comparison between the Murray Island and
Mabuiag natives—Barter for skulls—Economic
condition of Mabuiag—Present of food—Waria, a
literary Papuan—Death of Waria’s baby—Method
of collecting relationships and genealogies—
Colour-blindness—The Mabuiag language—A
May Meeting followed by a war-dance Page 117-131
CHAPTER IX
TOTEMISM AND THE CULT OF KWOIAM
Totemism in Mabuiag—Significance of Totemism—
Advantage of Totemism—Seclusion of girls—The
Sacred Island of Pulu—The scenes of some of
Kwoiam’s exploits—The Pulu Kwod—The stone
that fell from the sky—The Kwoiam Augŭds—
Death dances—Test for bravery—Bull-roarer—
Pictographs—The Cave of Skulls—The
destruction of relics—Outline of the Saga of
Kwoiam—Kwoiam’s miraculous water-hole—The
death of Kwoiam Page 132-147
CHAPTER X
 DUGONG AND TURTLE FISHING
A dugong hunt—What is a dugong?—The dugong
platform—Dugong charms—Turtle-fishing—How
the sucker-fish is employed to catch turtle—
Beliefs respecting the gapu—The agu and bull-
roarers—Cutting up a turtle Page 148-157
CHAPTER XI
MARRIAGE CUSTOMS AND STAR MYTHS
Marriage Customs: How girls propose marriage among
the western tribe—A proposal in Tut—Marital
relations—A wedding in church—An unfortunate
love affair—Various love-letters. Star Myths: The
Tagai constellation—A stellar almanack, its
legendary origin—The origin of the
constellations of Dorgai Metakorab and Bu—The
story of Kabi, and how he discovered who the
Sun, Moon, and Night were Page 158-169
CHAPTER XII
VISITS TO VARIOUS WESTERN ISLANDS
Our party breaks up. Saibai: Clan groupings—
Vaccination marks turned to a new use—Triple-
crowned coconut palm—A two-storied native
house. Tut: Notes of a former visit—Brief
description of the old initiation ceremonies—
Relics of the past. Yam: A Totem shrine. Nagir:
The decoration of Magau’s skull “old-time
fashion”—Divinatory skulls—The sawfish magical
dance—Pictographs in Kiriri. Muralug: Visit to
Prince of Wales Island in 1888—A family party—
War-dance Page 170-189
CHAPTER XIII
CAPE YORK NATIVES
Visit to Somerset—Notes on the Yaraikanna tribe—
Initiation ceremony—Bull-roarer—Knocking out
a front tooth—The ari or “personal totem” Page 190-194
CHAPTER XIV
A TRIP DOWN THE PAPUAN COAST
The Olive Branch—Passage across the Papuan Gulf—
Delena—Tattooing—A Papuan amentum—A
sorcerer’s kit—Borepada—Port Moresby—Gaile,
a village built in the sea—Character of the
country—Kăpăkăpă—Dubus—The Vatorata
Mission Station—Dr. and Mrs. Lawes—Sir
William Macgregor’s testimony to mission work
—A dance Page 197-210
CHAPTER XV
THE HOOD PENINSULA
Bulaa by moonlight—Hospitality of the South Sea
teachers—Geographical character of the Hood
Peninsula—Kalo—Annual fertility ceremony at
Babaka—Canoe-making at Keapara—The fishing
village of Alukune—The Keapara bullies—Picking
a policeman’s pocket—Tattooing—A surgical
remedy—Variations in the character of the
Papuan hair—Pile-raising—Children’s toys and
games—Dances—Second visit to Vatorata—Visit
Mr. English at Rigo Page 211-234
CHAPTER XVI
PORT MORESBY AND THE ASTROLABE RANGE
Port Moresby—Ride inland—Vegetation—View from Page 235-251
the top of Warirata—The Taburi village of
Atsiamakara—The Koiari—Tree houses—The Agi
chief—Contrasts—A lantern show—The
mountaineers—Tribal warfare—The pottery trade
 of Port Moresby—The Koitapu and the Motu—
Gunboats

CHAPTER XVII
THE MEKEO DISTRICT
Arrival at Yule Island—The Sacred Heart Mission—
Death of a Brother—A service at Ziria—The
meeting of the Papuan East and West in Yule
Island—The Ibitoe—Making a drum—Marriage
customs—Omens—Tattooing—The Roro fishers
and traders—The Mekeo agriculturists—The
Pokao hunters—Markets—Pinupaka—Mohu—
Walk across the plain and through the forest—
Inawi—War and Taboo chiefs—Taboo customs—
Masks—A Mission festivity—Tops—Veifaa—
Women’s dress—Children’s games—Return to
coast Page 252-277
PART II

CHAPTER XVIII
JOURNEY FROM KUCHING TO BARAM
Arrival in Sarawak—Description of Kuching—The
Sarawak Museum—Visit to Sibu—Stay in
Limbang—A Malay sago factory—Visit to Brunei
—Method and aims of Rajah Brooke’s
Government Page 279-294
CHAPTER XIX
THE WAR-PATH OF THE KAYANS
Leave Limbang—A Kadayan house at Tulu—Rapids Page 297-311
on the Limbang—Ascent of the Madalam—The
Insurrection of Orang Kaya Tumonggong Lawai
—Enter the Trikan—Durian—Met by Mr. Douglas
—Old Jungle—Descend the Malinau and Tutau—
 Kayan tattooing—Berantu ceremony in the Batu
Blah House—Arrival at Marudi (Claudetown)—
Kenyah drinking customs
CHAPTER XX
THE COUNTRY AND PEOPLE OF BORNEO
The Geographical and Geological Features of Borneo:
Arrangement of mountains—The geology of the
“Mountain-land,” Palæozoic—Mesozoic—the
geology of the “Hill-land,” Cainozoic—The
geology of the Plains, Quaternary—The geology
of the Marshes, Alluvium—Recent volcanic
action. A Sketch of the Ethnography of Sarawak:
Punans—Various agricultural tribes of
Indonesian and Proto-Malay stock—Land Dayaks
—Kenyahs and Kayans—Iban (Sea Dayaks)—
Malays—Sociological History of Sarawak—
Chinese traders Page 312-329
CHAPTER XXI
A TRIP INTO THE INTERIOR OF BORNEO
The Lelak house at Long Tru—Skull trophies—The
settled Punans on the Bok—Sarcophagus in
Taman Liri’s house—Divination by means of a
pig’s liver in Aban Abit’s house—Purchase of
some skulls—The Panyamun Panic in Sarawak in
1894-5—Commencement of a similar scare—
Administrative duties at Long Semitan—
Character of the Sĕbops—The fable of the
monkey and the frog—A visit to Mount Dulit—
The Scott-Keltie Falls—The Himalayan affinities
of the fauna of Mount Dulit and of other high
mountains in Borneo Page 330-351
CHAPTER XXII
A TRIP INTO THE INTERIOR OF BORNEO—
 continued
Ceremony of moving skulls into a new house at Long
Puah—Naming ceremony for Jangan’s boy—
Peace-making—Conviviality—Malohs desire to
marry some Sĕbop girls—Sĕbop dances—
Scenery on the Tinjar—Burnt house at Long
Dapoi—Panyamun Scare again—The Dapoi—
Long Sulan—Tingan’s matrimonial mishap—
News from the Madangs—A Punan medicine
man—Panyamun Scare settled—Discovery of
stone implements—A native selling a stone
implement for a loin cloth to die in—A stone
hook—A visit to Tama Bulan—The unfortunate
Bulan—Fanny Rapid—A Kenyan love story Page 352-380
CHAPTER XXIII
NOTES ON THE OMEN ANIMALS OF SARAWAK
Archdeacon Perham on the omens of the Iban (Sea
Dayaks)—List of the omen animals of the
Kayans, Kenyahs, Punans, and Iban—Reputed
origin of “Birding” Page 381-393
CHAPTER XXIV
THE CULT OF SKULLS IN SARAWAK
Reasons for collecting heads—Head required for
going out of mourning for a chief—Kenyah
legend of the origin of Head-hunting—How
Kenyahs leave skulls behind when moving into a
new house Page 394-400
CHAPTER XXV
PEACE-MAKING AT BARAM
Padi competition—Obstacle race—Speech-making— Page 401-415
The Lirong jawa—Fracas and reconciliation—
Tuba-fishing in Logan Ansok—Great boat-race—
 Monster public meeting—Enthusiastic speeches,
and Madangs formally received into the Baram
Administrative District

Index Page 417-426

 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
The Scott-Keltie Falls, Mt. Dulit, Baram
District, Sarawak Frontispiece
PLATE FACING PAGE
I. a. Ari, the Mamoose of Mer
18
b. Pasi, the Mamoose of Dauar
II. a. Rain Shrine, Mer
34
b. Doiom with Bull-roarer
III. a. Ulai
40
b. A Top-spinning Match, Mer
IV. a. Removing Sand from a Copper Maori
41
b. A Murray Island Feast
V. a, b, c. The Dance of the Malu Zogole 48
VI. a. The Malu Ceremony at Las
b. Ulai singing Malu songs into a Phonograph: 49
Gasu is beating the Malu drum
VII. a. The Shrine of Zabarker
54
b. Tomog Zogo
VIII. a. The Islands of Waier and Dauar from the
beach of Mer, with a Fish Shrine in the
64
foreground
b. U Zogo, the Coconut Shrine of Dauar
IX. a. Debe Wali and his Wife
72
b. Jimmy Rice and his Wife
X. a. Iasa, Kiwai
b. Side view of the Soko-Korobe Clan-house at 99
Iasa
 XI. a. Waria, Peter, Tom, and Gizu of Mabuiag
b. Nēĕt, or Platform from which Dugong are 123
harpooned
XII. a. Man dressed up for the Death Dance
b. Divining Skulls: 1. Skull of Magau of Nagir; 139
2. A Murray Island Skull
XIII. a. The Marine Village of Gaile
206
b. Bulaa
XIV. a. Girls of Babaka dressed for the Annual
Ceremony
218
b. Girls on the Dubu at Babaka for the Annual
Ceremony
XV. a. Hollowing out a Canoe with Stone Adzes at
Keapara 220
b. A Bulaa girl being tattooed
XVI. a. A Native of Bulaa
223
b. A Bulaa youth with Ringworm
XVII. a. Dubu at Kamali
232
b. Dubu Dance at Gomoridobo
XVIII. a. Udia and Daube, Taburi, Koiari
b. Elevara, Port Moresby, with the London
243
Missionary Society’s Station in the
background
XIX. a. Gewe, Chief of Agi, when deprived of his
Hat 245
b. Gewe, with his Hat restored
XX. a. Tree House at Gasiri
248
b. Pottery-making at Hanuabada, Port Moresby
XXI. a. A Mekeo Ibitoe
b. Masked Man, Kaivakuku, of Waima, Mekeo 256
District
XXII. a. Mohu, Mekeo District
268
b. Marea at Mohu
 XXIII. a. Regatta at Kuching
b. View from Kaban Hill, with the Brunei Hills 280
in the distance
XXIV. a. Brunei
290
b. A Family Bathe
XXV. a. Orang Kaya Tumonggong Lawai, a Long
Pata Chief in war costume, with a Kenyah
300
shield
b. A Sleeping-hut in the Jungle
XXVI. a. Ascending a Rapid
b. House of the Orang Bukits at Long Linai, 306
Tutau River
XXVII. a. Punans
b. A Lelak man with typical Tattooing on 320
shoulders and upper arms
XXVIII. a. Side view of a Kayan House
b. Verandah of a Kayan House at Long Lama, 331
Baram River
XXIX. a. Shrine outside Tama Bulan’s House
b. Bulan 376
c. Saba Irang, the Head Chief of the Madangs
XXX. a. Skull Trophy in a Kayan House
b. Skull Trophies in Aban Abit’s House at Long 396
Tisam, Barawan tribe
XXXI. a. Beating Tuba and baling the Infusion out of
a Canoe
408
b. Penchallong prepared for the Great Peace-
making

The photographs for Plates i.-iv. a., vi. b., vii. b., viii. b.-xi. a., xii. a.,
xiii.-xvi., xvii. a., xviii. a., xix.-xxii. were taken by the late A. Wilkin;
those for Plates xvii. b., xxv. a., xxvii. b., xxx. a. were taken by C. G.
Seligmann; Plate iv. B. by Dr. C. S. Myers; xii. b. by H. Oldland; and
the Frontispiece and Plates v., vii. a., viii. a., xviii. b., xxiii., xxiv., xxv.
b., xxvi., xxvii. a., xxviii., xxix., xxx. b., xxxi. by the Author. Plates vi.
a. and xi. b. were drawn from photographs taken by the Author by
his brother Trevor Haddon. With the exception of Plate xxx. b. none
of the photographs have been retouched.
The skulls depicted on the cover are drawn from a photograph of
a trophy collected by the Author at Mawatta, p. 115.
 LIST OF FIGURES IN THE TEXT
FIG. PAGE
1. The Hill of Gelam, Murray Island 15
2. Murray Island from the south 16
3. Waier and Dauar 17
4. Model of the Bomai Mask of the Malu Ceremonies 47
5. Pepker, the Hill-maker 65
6. Ziai Neur Zogo, a Therapeutic Shrine 65
7. Native drawings of some of the Nurumara (totems) of
Kiwai 102
8. Agricultural Charms of Kiwai 105
9. Neur Madub, a Love Charm 106
10. Shell Hoe used by the Natives of Parama 110
11. Bamboo Beheading-knife and Head Carrier, Mawatta 115
12. The Kwod, or Ceremonial Ground, in Pulu 139
13. Drawing by Gizu of a Danilkau, the Buffoon of the
Funeral Ceremonies 140
14. Drawing by Gizu of Mŭri ascending a Waterspout 141
15. Dugong Harpoon and Dart 149
16. Marine Plants (Cymodocea) on which the Dugong Feeds 152
17. Drawing by Gizu of the Method of Harpooning a Dugong 153
18. Wooden Dugong Charm from Moa 154
19. Drawing by Gizu of Dorgai Metakorab and Bu 167
20. House on Piles at Saibai, with the lower portion
screened with leaves 173
21. Restoration of the Kwod in Tut during the Initiation
Period 177
22. Restoration of the Kwod in Yam 179
23. Rock Pictographs in Kiriri 185