Men’s Textiles Forecast

A/W 24/25: Inter-Actions

Amid a period of polycrisis, the energy of activism and
agitation will filter down to textiles in the form of remixed
craft influences, subversive sartorials, and a more urgent
exploration of circular processes

Helen Palmer
01.13.23 - 14 minutes

Antonio Marras
Introduction
WGSN’s A/W 24/25 forecasts explore how the macro themes covered in our
STEPIC reports (examining Society, Technology, the Environment, Politics,
Industry and Creativity) will filter down to seasonal product development. Inter-
Actions is powered by the currents of society and politics.

In a world that feels like it’s turning upside down, people are becoming impatient for
solutions. Brands will need to act with a sense of urgency, activism and empathy to
thrive in this landscape, acknowledging the value of our individuality as well as the
power of our interconnectedness.
For product development, this will inspire designs that reappraise the past for a new era.
Myths, folklore and spiritual themes will be respectfully remixed, driven by ethical
collaborations, inclusive co-creations and authentic cultural representations. Craft will
appear in more elevated contexts or as unexpected details, and patchwork principles
will apply not only to textiles but also to product constructions, where seemingly
incongruous elements are fused together in harmonious or surprising ways that are
open to repair.
Harder, spikier themes will also emerge as consumers reject complacency and lean
towards direct action to drive change, calling on the rebellious, anarchic spirit of punk.
The uptight aesthetics of the Instagram era will feel antiquated as consumers move
towards the anti-curated, embracing expressive, subversive and sometimes darker
themes that draw on 1990s goth culture as well as more historical mediaeval influences.
On the lighter side, there will be a yearning for flexible and problem-solving products
and services that can make life simpler, or simply offer a range of uses in an
Mankind
unpredictable world. In the same vein, we will see brands and consumers embrace a
love of leftovers, using discarded or surplus materials and ingredients to create
ingeniously resourceful products that celebrate their imperfections.
More reading
Inter-Actions follows on from these themes in WGSN’s macro forecasts:
STEPIC Drivers: The Polycrisis Era | The Great Migration
STEPIC Innovations: Diversity for Survival | From Personalised to Individualised |
Beyond Borders | All the Rage
Big Ideas: Flex-Abilities | Urgent Optimism
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Amplified Craft Remix
The concept: as creativity crosses beyond
Western ideals and aesthetics, summer’s artistic
culture material focus celebrates colourful
#CraftCore remixes, embracing regional motifs
and cultural diversity.
Fibre and yarn: use GOTS-certified, Fair Trade,
Chee Soon & Fitzgerald
BCI or recycled cotton, natural linen and ramie,
RWS-certified worsteds and woollens, and FSC-
certified viscose, lyocell and ahimsa silk.
Construction and finish: devise bold colour-
woven stripes, checks and geo tapestry Dash + Miller Sasquatchfabrix

jacquards, boosting local motifs with bright

hues. Enhance with stitching, quilting,
patching, embroidery and block prints. Work
with artisans to co-create pieces made to be
cherished. Incorporate vintage textiles and @iamadampogue

embroider or print on deadstock bases for a

circular approach.
We love the pattern overload at Tokyo’s
Sasquatchfabrix, US brand Awake NY and New
Delhi-based Indian sustainable luxury brand
Perte D’Ego.
Relevant for: shirting, jackets, separates,
loungewear, soft accessories
Perte D'Ego Awake NY Picchi

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Off-Grid Checks
The concept: channelled frustration fuels the
appeal of alternative living and thrifty activism,
evolving last winter’s cabincore checks into
casual, vintage grunge looks.
Fibre and yarn: source into GRS and Fair Trade
cotton, linen and hemp blends, ethical RWS
Stella Blu Textile
Shetland and lambswool woollens, merino
worsteds, RMS mohair, yak and alpaca for
insulating warmth.
Construction and finish: make utilitarian plaids
and checks, from brushed shirting to insulating Antonio Marras Jasek Gleba

part-felt or shrunken winter-weight flannels,

meltons and fine needle-cords enhanced by
fades, padding, ombré colour and distressed
thready finishings.
Shinkong Textile
We are highlighting shrunken wool plaids at
Japanese brand Facetasm, off-grid looks by
London- and Barcelona-based Jacek Gleba and
checks at Antonio Marras.
Relevant for: shirting, jackets, separates,
outerwear, soft accessories

Somelos Tecidos Facetasm Lanificio Luigi Zanieri

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Flexible Utility
The concept: super-light, functional fluid
fabrics will provide adaptive performance
staples in core incognito tones that can be
packed down for easy commuting.
Fibre and yarn: source lower-impact GRS-
certified recycled polyester and nylon such as
Wujiang Flying Textile Co.
Newlife, Econyl, Seaqual and Repreve,
biodegradable synthetics Amni Soul Eco
(polyamide 6.6), Kintra or Sorona.
Construction and finish: create super-fine,
matte-finish papery packable ripstops and eye_C magazine / Teätora P. Andrade

poplins, and superlight two- to three-layer

proofs that are tear-proof, quick-dry, water-
resistant and breathable, and bring in flex and
stretch via construction.
WidePlus International Co., Ltd.
Brands to follow include South Korean label
Post Archive Faction, Japanese label Teätora,
and Brazilian label P.Andrade.
Relevant for: shirting, outerwear,
bottomweights, jackets, soft accessories

eye_C magazine / Teätora Post Archive Faction Trenchant Textiles

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Assembled Threads
The concept: last winter’s ‘do it your way’
fabrics move forward via personalised zero-
waste tweeds and casually ad-hoc thready,
repaired-look colour wovens.
Fibre and yarn: include mouliné, slub, bouclé,
nep and knop yarns in weaves fit for onward
Clara Ashton-Barnett
recycling. Use GRS-certified recycled cotton,
wool and cashmere from Ecotec and Re-Verso,
and closed-loop cellulosics such as Evrnu,
Circulose, Infinited Fiber, Refibra and Liva
Reviva. Dash + Miller @theperfectmagazine

Construction and finish: rework remnant fibres

and yarns into casual ad-hoc tweed. Update
Donegal tweed jacketing, fibre-mix shirting,
and drill and twill cottons with waste fibre
colour flecks, or use up ad-hoc yarns as thready Freedom Denim

float yarn tweeds.

Deploy zero-waste creativity, seen in Tyler
Webb’s floating thread jeans, and recycled-yarn
weaves by designer Simone Post.
Relevant for: shirting, jackets, outerwear, soft
accessories

@kentuckyboytyler Simone Post Dash & Miller

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Circular Basics
The concept: with urgent focus on the end of
abundance, circularity will drive core materials,
with fleck terrazzo mixes exposing the origins
of the waste fibre used.
Fibre and yarn: use reclaimed mélanges, slubs
and moulinés. NuCycl’s Evrnu, Renewcell’s
MTT Spa
Circulose, Refibra and Liva Reviva are closed-
loop cellulosics. Source GRS-certified cotton,
wool and cashmere from Ecotec and Re-Verso,
linen, hemp, banana and nettle fibres.
Construction and finish: update simple bases TMG OAMC

with rainbow neps, slubs and twists. Update

Donegal tweed jacketing, brushed fibre-mix
shirting, and drill and twill bases with colour
flecks in plains, stripes and checks. Make
materials in compatible blends that are fit for Lanificio Becagli

onward recycling.
We have noted the flecked bomber jacket by
Swedish label Acne Studios and casual pieces by
Paris- and Milan-based OAMC.
Relevant for: tailoring, coats, jackets, outdoor
soft accessories

Durat x Linda Bergroth Acne Studios Shinkong Textile

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Folk Stories
The concept: as Indigenous and non-Western
identities reshape aesthetics and tastes across
sectors, our love-cycled craft story evolves with
a folk narrative.
Fibre and yarn: source GOTS-certified organic,
Fair Trade and pre-and post-industrial recycled
Ets Ezgi Tekstil
cotton. Introduce hemp, linen and RWS-
certified woollens to complement cotton in
blends.
Construction and finish: tap into local
communities to craft patterns and motifs on Levi's by Adish Karu

dobby and jacquard looms, creating tapestry-

style patterns as well as hand-blocked prints
and folk embroideries.
We cite New Delhi-based brand Karu, which
Arvind
works with India’s artisans on hand-loomed and
stitched garments; Israeli-Palestinian label
Adish, which reworked Levi’s chore jackets and
original 501s with Palestinian tatreez hand
embroidery and Bedouin hand-weaving; and
antique Indian quilt jackets by Japanese brand
Sillage.
Relevant for: shirts, jackets, bottoms, denim,
outwear, accessories
WGSN Archive Sillage Trocadero

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Retro-Luxe Comfort
The concept: last winter’s homebound comfort
direction of plush, corded and brushed fabrics
is smartened up with a focus on #GentleRetro
interior influences.
Fibre and yarn: GOTS-certified cotton, cotton-
feel recycled polyester and RWS merino bring
Riba Guixa
softness and durability, while Birla, Lenzing and
Naia lyocell add peached, brushed handles to
casual cotton. Touches of linen add character.
Construction and finish: napped, plush and
flock textures are key. Amp up tactility in soft @sankuanz_official Sasquatchfabrix

suedes, moleskins, #Corduroys and brushed

cotton drills and twills for indoor-to-outdoor
practicality. Shaded geos and pronounced ribs
have a retro feel, made durable by eco-friendly
weatherproofing. Niggeler & Kupfer

Brand references include velour jackets at

Japanese label Sasquatchfabrix and a wool
signature overcoat by Italian house Gucci.
Relevant for: shirting, jackets, outerwear,
loungewear, soft accessories

RG Deri Gucci RG Deri

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Preppy Classics
The concept: past eras continue to inform
timeless preppy checks. Last season’s amped-up
retro references have a more classic element
this time, answering the need for investable
pieces with longevity.
Fibre and yarn: tap into blends of linen, BCI-
Vilarinho
certified and GRS-recycled cotton, RWS/ZQ-
verified merino wool, Tencel lyocell and GRS
recycled polyester. Bring subtle texture in via
elastane or high-twist yarns to create a
seersucker effect. Tiento Tiles S.S. Daley

Construction and finish: plain and twill weave

patterns follow classic and smart-casual colours
and designs, from plaids and overchecks to
smaller-scale grid-checks and gingham layouts.
Wearable for both work and leisure, indoor to Vilarinho

outside, light- to mid-weights are durable and

have easy-care and climate-proof benefits.
We reference the preppy cotton check tracksuit
jacket by Los Angeles luxury brand Wish Me
Luck, and classic British suit checks by UK
designer S.S. Daley.
Relevant for: shirting, jackets, separates, soft
accessories
Dash + Miller Wish Me Luck Almodo Textile

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New Histories
The concept: dark seduction provides a sensual
air for formalwear, translated as deconstructed
baroque influences played out in opulent
texture and emotive darks.
Fibre and yarn: calendered BCI- and GOTS-
certified cotton, FSC cellulosics, peace silk,
Vanners
RWS or ZQ-certified merino and RMS-verified
mohair for tonic suits.
Construction and finish: keep grounds dark for
interior-referenced damasks and tapestry
motifs. Intricately banded dobby and jacquard Professor.E Dries Van Noten

stripes give shirting and jackets archival appeal.

Give needlecord, velvet and moleskin shadow
pattern, and update silky twills with faint
florals.
Woven Studio
Note stylish avant garde Taiwanese label
Professor.E’s deconstructed damask and velvet
pieces, and the draped flock-print shirt by
Belgian designer Dries Van Noten.
Relevant for: shirting, jackets, suits,
loungewear, separates, soft accessories

Cavalleri & C. Professor.E Woven Studio

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Subversive Sartorials
The concept: the softer grunge romance trend
sharpens into a more sartorial #noir mood,
where conscious subcultures and subtle
alternative overtures emerge.
Fibre and yarn: source RWS and ZQ merino
worsteds, RMS mohair, BCI cotton, FSC-
Haining Tianyi Textile
certified viscose, lyocell and ahimsa silk. Use
recycled polyester and nylon for functional and
technical suiting.
Construction and finish: tonic worsteds play
out in twills or herringbones. Evolve shadowy Almodo Textile @sankuanz_official

sartorial suitings with partly obscured, faint

pinstripes. Silky twill, satin and polished poplin
shirting have discreet texture and matte-versus-
shine effects, while panné velour adds tactility.
Jiangsu Danmao Textile Co., Ltd.
Take note of edgy tailoring by Chinese designer
Junli and Sankuanz, an emerging fashion label
that brings Chinese fashion and subculture to
rave-informed suiting.
Relevant for: shirts, jackets, tailoring,
outerwear, soft accessories

Junli F**king Young Lucy Day

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City Stealth
The concept: darker aesthetics inspired by
1990s emos and goths influence sooty, shadowy
fabrics that blend seamlessly into the dark
corners of cityscapes.
Fibre and yarn: RWS-certified woollens and
worsteds, GRS recycled wool blends and Tencel,
Marini Industrie
cotton and cashmere blends have a rough-luxe
tactility. Look to rPET for brushed flannels and
add sooty jaspé and mouliné yarns for
ingrained effects.
Construction and finish: update milled tweeds, Vincent Ying on Artstation Viviers Studio

flannels, meltons and brushed shirting cross-

hatching, foggy checks, polluted-look flecks,
kemps or brushed-up or felt finishes, and
poplin, chambray, drill and twill bases, and eco-
sooty-look dyes. Rare Thread

We have called out the shadowed checks at

Johannesburg-based label Viviers Studio and
the carbon-effect shirting by gender-fluid UK
brand Mark Baigent.
Relevant for: shirting, jackets, outerwear

Marini & Cecconi Mark Baigent Mario Cucchetti Tessuti

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1 234
Action points

Boost circularity via recycled Amplify and embrace diverse Design fabrics that flex to the Embrace rebellious and dark
fibres and creative voices, viewpoints and design individual and usage aesthetics
customisation aesthetics

Cater to eco-aware, individualist Integrating diverse perspectives into the As people increasingly embrace a fuller We are entering the polycrisis era,
consumers embracing the DIY economy. fabric design and sourcing process will spectrum of ways of being – from where action and community will drive
Creatively tap into reclaimed materials ensure success in a complex and gender and sexuality to expectations creative expression and solutions.
and overstock. Use upcycling as a new changing world. Move away from related to age, ability and lifestyle – Expect consumers to be channelling
design code, creating small-batch centralised and Western aesthetics and products will need to follow suit. Factor their inner rage into positive actions,
unique materials that make use of ad- influences, and seek out creatives and in flexibility in terms of fabrication, rejecting norms and identifying with
hoc creativity and individuality. Create makers from different backgrounds, performance and garment shape and alternative subcultures and fashions. A
design newness via splicing and developing equitable partnerships that function, and steer away from darker mood prevails with grunge and
customisation. Focus on fabric that can celebrate their skills, traditions and homogenous, standardised design rebellious aesthetics creeping into
be safely onwardly recycled. creative visions approaches mainstream consciousness

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WGSN’s forecasts are created by our global team of experts
Fashion forecasting team Sara Maggioni, Head of Womenswear Graham Krag, Senior Strategist, Prints Contributors
Helen Palmer, Head of Materials and Nick Paget, Senior Strategist, Menswear and Graphics APAC
Textiles Erin Rechner, Head of Kidswear Rose Hudson, Strategist, Prints and Lupi Yao, Trend Director WGSN China
Charlotte Casey, Senior Strategist, Graphics
Allison Goodfellow-Ash, Strategist, Alison Ho, Consumer Researcher, WGSN
Knitwear Kidswear Fanny Chow, Strategist, Prints and
Graphics Africa
Nicole Ajimal, Strategist, Materials
Hannah Allan, Strategist, Kidswear Raeesa Brey, Researcher
Victoria Bulmer, Strategist, Materials
Jo Lynch, Strategist, Intimates
LATAM
Jane Collins, Senior Strategist, Footwear Rebecca Saygi, Strategist, Swimwear
and Accessories Sofia Martellini, Senior Strategist,
Susie Draffan, Senior Strategist, Denim Fashion Feed and Catwalks
Yvonne Kostiak, Senior Strategist, Active
Charlotte Browning, Strategist, Active

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Industry credits and collaborations
Thanks to the following fabric and textiles mills and weave design studios, which collaborated with WGSN
to provide sourced seasonal developments and exclusive samples for the A/W 24/25 forecast reports.

Mills Harris Tweed Motta Pelli Shinkong Textile

Aksoy Tekstil Inseta MTT SpA Swing By Gruppo-Cinque
Almodo Tekstil Inter-Leather SL Gruppo Tessile Niggeler & Kupfer Stella Blu Textile
Arvind Mills JA Fabric by Takisada Nagoya Nova Kaeru Somelos Tecidos
Bartolini 1938 Jiangsu Danmao Textile Co. Outside Denim Lab TMG
British Millerain John England Irish Linen Olmetex Toyoshima & Co.
Cavalleri & C. Koojoo Fabric Co. Picchi SpA Trenchant Textiles
Chun Wing Hing Trading Co. Kuwamura Co. Raphael S.r.L Pastel by Yilmazipek
Cone Denim Lanificio Becagli RG Deri Vanners
Deveaux Lanificio Fratelli Bacci SpA Riopele Fabrica de Tecidos de Vilarinho Lda
Ets Ezgi Tekstil Lanificio f.lli Mannelli Shanghai Paradise Bird Textile Co. WidePlus International Co.
Guangdong Jianye Textile Co. Lanificio Luigi Zanieri Schoeller Textiles AG Wisher Industrial
Fashion Art SpA Marini & Cecconi Shibaya Wujiang Flying Textile Co.
Frumat Mario Cucchetti Tessuti Yünsa
Halley Stevensons

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Industry credits and collaborations
Thanks to the following fabric and textiles mills and weave design studios, which collaborated with WGSN
to provide sourced seasonal developments and exclusive samples for the A/W 24/25 forecast reports.

Dash + Miller Woven Studio Designers

Dash + Miller specialises in the design, development Woven Studio produces a seasonal collection of woven Lucy Day (WGSN archive)
and production of woven fabrics for the global fashion and multi-process fabric swatches using carefully
Francesa McMullen (WGSN archive)
and interiors industries, using experimental yarn, sourced yarns and materials. With a broad range of
structure, colour and finishing. Its portfolio of original experience in design development, the studio is fully Koshe Salihy (WGSN archive)
samples offers an inspirational range, complete with equipped to work on projects, ranging from trim and Cat Talbutt (WGSN archive)
technical information for mill design and development. fabric development to meterage that is hand-woven in-
University of Brighton
A consultancy service is also offered for specific house, while also offering industrial production
projects, including mixed-media designs, screen prints solutions with different weaving mills in the UK and Website: arts.brighton.ac.uk
and hand wovens, and the studio collaborates with a around the world. With extensive knowledge of yarn Tel: +44 (0) 1273 600 900
high-end UK womenswear mill to produce a seasonal suppliers and textile manufacturers, the studio has the Daisy Millar
collection of fabric available by the metre. capacity and expertise to conduct experimental
Clara Ashton-Barnett
Contact: Juliet Bailey research using new and unusual materials.

Email: [email protected] Contact: Laura Miles

Tel: +44 (0)20 3002 0553 Email: [email protected]
Tel: +44 (0)793 053 4721

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WGSN trend matrix 2025
Mapping the continuity between the themes covered in our STEPIC Drivers, STEPIC Innovations, Big Ideas
and Product Forecasts.

STEPIC STEPIC Drivers STEPIC Innovations Big Ideas Forecast

Diversity for Survival
The Polycrisis Era Flex-Abilities
From Personalised to Individualised

Society
Digital Duality
Decentralised
Layered Realities
Digital Culture Expanded
Adaptive Design
Technology Imagination

Bio-Synthetic Streams
Nature As a
Resource-Ready
Environment Board Member
Sleep for Sustainability
Future Terrains
Beyond Borders
Politics The Great
Migration Urgent Optimism
All the Rage

Industry
Future Mining Inter-Actions
The Second Preservation
Space Age Mode
The End of Abundance
Creativity

Conscious Subcultures
Synthetic Strategic
Creativity Imagination
AI Surrealism

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WGSN 2025 forecast schedule
Your guide to when WGSN's 2025 forecast reports will be published.

STEPIC STEPIC Big Future Personas/Product Product

Drivers Innovations Ideas Consumer Opportunities Forecasts

The six global macro- The 12 areas of innovation STEPIC Drivers and STEPIC The key consumer The Future Consumer Product Forecasts present
economic drivers that that will lead transformation Innovations contextualised sentiments and profiles profiles contextualised for the design directions for
will shape 2025, and across industries in 2025 and for the fashion, beauty, that will disrupt the beauty, food and drink, each industry and product
strategies for success their implications for interiors, food and drink, industries in 2025 consumer tech and category, with more than
business, culture and design and consumer tech interiors industries 80 reports throughout the
industries year across WGSN

Business Strategy Business & Product Strategy Product Strategy Business & Consumer Strategy Consumer Strategy Product Strategy
Insight Insight, Fashion, Beauty, Interiors, Fashion, Beauty, Interiors, Insight Beauty, Food & Drink, Fashion, Beauty, Interiors,
Food & Drink, Consumer Tech Food & Drink, Consumer Tech Consumer Tech, Interiors Food & Drink, Consumer Tech

November 2022 December 2022 January 2023 January- February 2023 December 2022 - March 2023

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