Service Manual

Cub Cadet Z-Force

IMPORTANT: READ SAFETY RULES AND INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY

This Service Manual is not a substitute for the Operator’s Manual. You must read, understand
and follow all of the directions in this manual as well as the Operator’s Manual before working
on this power equipment.

CUB CADET LLC, P.O. BOX 361131, CLEVELAND, OH 44136-0019

PRINTED IN USA FORM NO.769-00967

(11/2003)
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

Deck Leveling.................................................................................................... 1
Deck Removal ................................................................................................... 2
Deck Belt Removal............................................................................................ 3
Spindle Removal ............................................................................................... 3
Spindle Inspection............................................................................................. 4
Tracking and Neutral Adjustment ...................................................................... 5
Lap Bar.............................................................................................................. 9
Brakes ............................................................................................................... 10
Reverse Cutout Switch Adjustment ................................................................... 12
Electrical System............................................................................................... 14
Deck Lift Shaft................................................................................................... 19
Steering Input Shaft........................................................................................... 23
Pivot Bar............................................................................................................ 25
Engine ............................................................................................................... 27
Z-Force Model Lineup ....................................................................................... 30
 Z Force
1. DECK LEVELING 1.6. To make side to side level adjustment align
blades across the width of the deck, perpendicu-
1.1. Park the mower on a flat paved surface, engage
lar to with center line of the mower.
the parking brake, shut off engine, remove the
See Figure 1.6.
key from ignition switch, disconnect the spark
plug wires.
1.2. Check front tire pressure. Adjust as necessary to
20-25 psi.
1.3. Check rear Drive tire pressure. Adjust as neces-
sary to 8-10 psi.
NOTE: Tire pressure can effect blade height as
much as a 1/4 “
1.4. Measure the distance from the right rear corner
of the transmission mounting bracket to the Measure blade height
ground. Repeat on the left side. See Figure 1.4.

Figure 1.6

1.7. Measure height of the outer tip of the right blade.

1.8. Measure height of the outer tip of the left blade.
1.9. Adjust the threaded link at the left side of the
deck, using two 3/4” wrench, so the height of the
blade tips match. The right side link is not
adjustable. See Figure 1.9.

Deck height
adjustment nuts
Figure 1.4

1.5. Adjust tire pressure within specified range, to

equalize the left and right measurements. This
will level the frame right to left.

Figure 1.9

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1.10. To do fore and aft pitch adjustment, align the 1.16. Tighten inner jam nut to lock the adjustment.
blades front to back. See Figure 1.10.
1.17. Double-check side-to-side and pitch measure-
ments before returning the unit to service.

Measure
blade height

2. DECK REMOVAL
2.1. Position the mower on a shop lift, turn off the
engine, and remove the key from the key switch.
Figure 1.10 2.2. Raise deck to the highest position.

1.11. Measure blade height distance of the rear tip of 2.3. Raise the lift.
either outer blade. 2.4. Move deck cart under lift.
1.12. Measure the blade height of the front tip of the 2.5. Lower lift so that deck is BARELY touching cart
center blade.
2.6. Using deck lift handle, lower deck on to cart.
NOTE: The blade height of the rear tips should
be 1/8” to 1/4” higher than the front tip. 2.7. Unhook the belt tensioning lever on the left side
of the deck, and swing the lever outward to
1.13. Adjust blade pitch using a 7/8” wrench to relieve tension on the deck belt and the PTO
lengthen or shorten the front lift rods. belt.
See Figure 1.13.
2.8. Remove PTO belt.
2.9. Remove either linch pin from the lift rod cross
bar, and withdraw the bar. See Figure 2.9.

Front lift rods

Lynch pin

Jam nuts

Lift rod
Figure 1.13
cross bar
Front lift rod
1.14. Using a 7/8” socket loosen or tighten the outer
jam nuts to obtain proper measurement. Figure 2.9
1.15. Check for “slack” in front lift rods. If one rod is
looser than the other, deck vibration will be NOTE: As the cross bar clears each lift rod, it
amplified. can be easily unhooked from the deck and
removed.

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2.10. Remove both front lift rods. 3.2. Pull the belt below the flat idler and remove the
belt from the spindle assemblies and stack pul-
2.11. Pull the J-pins outward to release rear deck lift
ley.
hangers. Rotate the J-pins to lock them in the
out position
2.12. Raise lift. Confirm that none of the belts or link-
ages will interfere with removal of the cutting
deck.
2.13. Pull cart from under lift.
3. DECK BELT REMOVAL
4. SPINDLE REMOVAL
CAUTION: Before doing any work to the deck, it
needs to be safely secured so that it will not fall. 4.1. Strap deck to cart.
See Figure 3.0.
4.2. Tilt top of cart until securely locks in place.
4.3. Using two 1 1/8” wrenches remove blade nut
Strap from spindle shaft. See Figure 4.3.

Deck service
cart (Heftee)

Figure 3.0

3.1. Insert a 3/8” breaker bar into the hole on idler Figure 4.3
arm assembly. Rotate the idler arm to the left
while rolling belt off of the flat idler pulley.
4.4. Remove blade and spacer. See Figure 4.4.
See Figure 3.1.

Spacer

Idler
arm
Flat idler
(tensioning) Stationary
idler

Figure 4.4
Figure 3.1

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4.5. Remove the spindle shaft and pulley from the 5. SPINDLE
spindle housing. See Figure 4.5.
NOTE: Spindles can be rebuilt while attached to
deck, or they can be removed for service.
Spindle pulley 5.1. If the spindle is removed from the deck, carefully
fixture it in a bench vice.
5.2. Remove covers. See Figure 5.2.

Bearing cover (bottom)

Hex head on
spindle shaft

Figure 4.5

NOTE: If the spindle is to be removed from the

deck, rather than serviced in-situ, the pulley and
shaft must be removed before the spindle hous-
ing can be removed from the deck. Figure 5.2
4.6. Using a 1/2” socket and extension remove the
four bolts holding the spindle housing to the 5.3. Using soft drift, remove the bottom bearing from
deck. See Figure 4.6. the spindle housing. See Figure 5.3.

Insert drift Seal

Tapered roller bearing
Note: lip
faces out

Spindle
bolts
Spindle housing
seen from top

Figure 4.6 Figure 5.3

NOTE: The seal will come out with the bearing

5.4. Remove the spacer that fits between the bear-
ings.
5.5. Repeat bearing and seal removal on the second
bearing in the spindle housing.

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5.6. Clean and inspect all of the components. 5.11. The double pulley that transfers drive from the
Replace any that exhibit wear or damage. Eval- PTO belt to the deck belt has two different size
uate the feasibility of repair versus complete sheaves. The PTO belt rides in the top sheave,
spindle replacement. which is the wider of the two, to accommodate
the angularity that results from different cutting
5.7. If a roller bearing is damaged, drive the bearing
heights. See Figure 5.11.
race out of the housing and replace it as well.
Do not over-look the bearing race at the inspec-
tion stage. See Figure 5.7.

Cover

Seal
Spacer
Bearing

PTO Belt
(wide sheave)
Seal deck belt
(narrow sheave)
Cover

Figure 5.11
Figure 5.7
NOTE: Failure to install the double pulley in the
right orientation will result in belt loss and pre-
5.8. Drive new bearing races into the spindle housing mature belt failure.
if required, using a heavy hammer or press, and
and appropriate driver.
6. TRACKING AND NEUTRAL ADJUSTMENT
5.9. Pack the bearings with grease and assemble the
spindle. 6.1. For preliminary checks, park the mower on a
flat paved surface, engage the parking brake,
5.10. Install the seals with the lips facing outward,
shut off engine, remove the key from ignition
using an appropriate driver.
switch.
6.2. Check front tire pressure. Adjust as necessary to
20-25 psi.
6.3. Measure distance from the right rear corner of
the transmission mounting bracket to the
ground. Measure the distance from the left rear
corner of the transmission mounting bracket to
the ground. If the measurements are not equal,
the air pressure in the tires will need to be
adjusted to level the frame.
6.4. Check rear Drive tire pressure. Adjust as neces-
sary within the range of 8-10 PSI.
NOTE: This adjustment may be redundant if the
deck has recently been leveled.
NOTE: Tire pressure will effect tire circumfer-
ence, which will effect tracking.

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6.5. Check the IHT (Integrated Hydrostatic transmis- 6.11. Turn the engine off and remove the key from the
sion) release the levers to be sure the transmis- switch.
sions are fully engaged. See Figure 6.5.
6.12. If there is wheel movement in neutral, discon-
Release rod for right nect the control linkage from the transmission
hand side IHT, seen at IHT release rod that is driving that wheel.
rear of frame.
NOTE: If both wheels “creep” then both control
IHT release
linkages need to be disconnected.
lever
6.13. Using two 1/2” wrenches, remove the Nylock nut
holding steering link rod end to the return-to-
neutral mechanism. See Figure 6.13.

Steering Return-to-neutral mechanism

link rod end

Forward end of the same

Released position; lift rod, connected to lever on
and push in to engage right hand side IHT.

Figure 6.5

6.6. Check steering linkage for wear and damage.

i.e.; loose ball joint ends, worn bellcrank bush-
ings, and loose or bent hardware.
6.7. Replace any worn or damaged components
before attempting to make a tracking adjust-
ment.
Figure 6.13
6.8. After the preliminary items have been covered,
check the neutral adjustment.
6.14. With the steering link rod disconnected, start the
6.9. Raise rear wheels off ground and support the Z- engine, release the parking brake, and check for
Force by the frame. wheel and brake rotor movement.
6.10. Start the engine and release parking brake, do 6.15. If “creep” has been eliminated by disconnecting
not move the lap bars from the start position. the linkage, then only the linkage must be
Neither the rear wheels nor the brake rotors adjusted to eliminate the “creep”. If “creep” still
should move. See Figure 6.10. exists, then the return-to-neutral mechanism on
the transmission must be adjusted.
Parking brake
Leave the lap bar in the released
“START” position
notch. This will hold
the lap bar in neutral.

Figure 6.10

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 Z Force

6.16. To adjust the return-to-neutral mechanism, 6.19. Start the engine. Carefully rotate the return-to-
loosen the socket head cap screw that locks the neutral mechanism until a position is found that
indexing plate on the return-to-neutral mecha- results in no “creep”.
nism in position using a 1/4” allen wrench. It
6.20. Tighten socket head cap screw. Confirm that the
should be possible to move the indexing plate
adjustment did not shift as the screw was tight-
with light effort. See Figure 6.16.
ened.

Rotate entire mechanism to adjust 6.21. Repeat the procedure on the second IHT, if nec-
Indexing plate
essary
Socket head 6.22. Turn the engine off, and remove the key from the
cap screw key switch.
6.23. Reattach steering link rod.
6.24. Enable the seat safety switch.
6.25. The steering link rods can be lengthened or
shortened to adjust tracking.
6.26. Loosen the jam nuts on the link that connects
the bellcrank to the return-to-neutral mechanism.
See Figure 6.27.

Figure 6.16

6.17. Temporarily disable the seat safety switch.

Because the plug has a double-safety, simply
unplugging the switch has no effect. Applying Bellcrank
pressure to the part of the seat normally occu-
pied by the operator’s gluteus maximus will Link Jam nuts
extend the three tabs. Clamping one of those
tabs with a pair of alligator clips or a similar tool
will hold the switch in the actuated position.
See Figure 6.17.

Seat safety switch

Figure 6.26

NOTE: One end of the steering link rod has a

right hand thread, the other end has a left hand
thread. When both jam nuts are loose, the steer-
ing link rod can be rotated to make a length
tabs
adjustment.
NOTE: When adjusting the steering link rods,
maintain sufficient engaged thread length within
the rod end.

Figure 6.17

6.18. Insure that no unsafe conditions will be created

by starting the engine and operating the drive
system.

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6.27. Clamp the fingers on the return-to-neutral mech- 6.36. With the engine turned off, push each lap bar
anism so that they hold the tab on the control gently forward until it reaches the end of the
quadrant to the tab on the indexing plate. travel allowed by the return-to-neutral mecha-
See Figure 6.27. nism. See Figure 6.36.

Rotate link Control quadrant Steering pivot

to adjust bracket
Lap bar

Jam nut

Indexing
plate

Stop bolt
C clamp

Figure 6.27 Figure 6.36

NOTE: This will effectively lock the return-to- 6.37. If there is a difference in the travel of the two lap
neutral mechanism positively into neutral. bars, adjust the stop bolt on the lap bar with the
least travel so that it just contacts steering pivot
6.28. Rotate the steering link rod to lengthen or
bracket as the lap bar reaches the end of its
shorten it until the lap bar is centered in the
travel.
notch at the neutral position.
6.38. Adjust the second lap bar so that it matches the
6.29. Tighten the jam nuts on the steering link rod to
first.
lock-in the adjustment.
NOTE: If the mower does not track straight after
6.30. Remove the clamp.
these adjustments are complete, particularly on
6.31. Repeat the procedure on the second IHT if nec- a slight grade, internal wear of the transmission
essary. on the side that it tends to track toward may be
the cause.
6.32. Lower the Z-Force to the ground and test-run it
in a safe area. NOTE: For the first two years of residential use,
or one year of commercial use, the IHTs are
6.33. With the lap bars pushed forward or pulled back
within their warranty period, and will be replaced
an equal amount, the Z-Force mower should
as complete units if a warrantable failure
track straight.
occurs. Beyond the warranty period, complete
6.34. After the steering link rods are adjusted, set the service procedures for the Hydro-Gear 31-2400
lap bar stop bolts. IHT are outlined in Hydro-Gear publication: BLN-
51134.
6.35. Loosen the jam nuts on both lap bar stop bolts.
NOTE: Replacement IHTs are shipped dry
because of ICC regulations. Prior to installation,
they must be filled with 79 fl.oz. or 20W50 motor
oil. When properly filled, the level should reach
a point 1 7/8” down from the TOP of the trans-
mission housing.

8
 Z Force

7.2. Before tightening the bolts, pivot each lap bar on

the steering pivot bracket to fit the operator.
NOTE: Fill the IHT and check the fluid level
through the vent port at the top off the housing. 7.3. Position both lap bars in their respective notches
at the start position. They should align with each
NOTE: The IHT may be spun with a drill motor
other when swung inward from the start position
and purged prior to installation, or they may be
slot.
purged after installation.
7.4. Tighten the bolts that hold the lap bars to the
NOTE: To purge:
steering pivot brackets. See Figure 7.4.
• With the engine running and the by-pass valve
open (release rod pulled-out), slowly stroke the
directional control to its full travel in both direc-
tions 5 or 6 times.
• Turn off the engine and check the fluid level in
the IHT.
• Repeat the procedure with the by-pass valve
closed (release rod pushed all the way in). Lap bar reach
adjustment
• Repeat until the IHT performs at normal operat-
ing speed and cavitation wine has subsided.
7. LAP BAR
NOTE: Lap bars should be adjusted so the oper-
ators upper arm are relaxed and approximately
vertical, and operators forearms should horizon-
tal. Figure 7.4

NOTE: Lap bar adjustment should be performed

after tracking and neutral control has been con-
firmed to be correct.
7.1. Using a 1/2” socket and 1/2” wrench, adjust lap
bars up and down by installing the bolts that hold
the lap bar to the steering pivot bracket in a dif-
ferent set of holes. Install the bolts snugly
enough that each lap bar can pivoted on the
lower mounting bolt with light effort.
See Figure 7.1.

Paired mounting holes

Lap bar
height adjustment

Figure 7.1

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8. BRAKES 8.4. Prior to adjustment, check the condition of the

parking brake cables. See Figure 8.4.
NOTE: While the mower is in motion, all braking
is performed dynamically through the hydraulic • The cables should not be chafed, kinked, burnt,
pumps and traction motors within the IHTs. This or corroded. They should move freely.
is controlled by the lap bars. When parked, with
• The springs should not be over-stretched or cor-
the engine off, the hydraulic system locks the
roded.
drive wheels.
8.1. To push the unit, you must release the hydraulic Check condition of:
brake. Locate the release levers at the rear of cables
the transmission mounting bracket. Pull them springs
toward the rear and lower the wide area of the return springs
rod into the keyhole slot.

Figure 8.4

8.5. Unbolt the left side control console using a 3/8”

socket, and remove the console.
NOTE: Disconnect the left neutral switch to
Figure 8.1 avoid damaging electrical components.
8.6. Inspect the lever end of the cables. The Z-fitting
8.2. Lift and safely support the rear of the mower. on the lever end of the cable should not be dam-
aged. The cable housing ends should lock
8.3. Remove the lug nuts from the rear wheels using
securely into the bracket. See Figure 8.6.
a 3/4” socket, and remove the wheels.

Cable bracket
Parking brake
lever Z-fittings

Cable ends
Cable cores

Figure 8.6

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 Z Force

8.7. Check the brake lever mounting hardware. 8.9. Prior to adjustment, check the brake pawls and
See Figure 8.7. rotors. See Figure 8.9.

Parking brake lever

Spring
Shoulder

Spacer
Nut Capscrew

Right side brake rotor:

Shoulder out.
Friction washer Flat washer

Figure 8.7 Figure 8.9

8.8. Prior to adjustment, check the brake pawls and • The teeth on the pawls and rotors should not be
rotors. See Figure 8.8. worn, chipped or rounded.
• Both ends of the brake shaft on each transmis-
Adjustment point sion are splined. The brakes are mounted to the
Brake rotor outside of each transmission.
• The left side brake rotor fits on the brake shaft
with the shoulder facing the wheel.
• The shoulder on the pawl should face in the
same direction as the shoulder on the rotor that
it engages. The pawl should not bind on the bolt
that it pivots on.
8.10. Pull out both hydro. pump rods to disengage the
hydraulic brakes.
8.11. Install the left side control console.
Brake pawl
8.12. Move the parking brake lever to the ON position.
Figure 8.8 8.13. Check for full tooth engagement between each
brake pawl and rotor. If they are not fully
• The teeth on the pawls and rotors should not be engaged, move the corresponding rear hub
worn, chipped or rounded. slightly to align the teeth.
• Both ends of the brake shaft on each transmis-
sion are splined. The brakes are mounted to the
outside of each transmission.
• The right side brake rotor fits on the brake shaft
with the shoulder facing the transmission.
• The shoulder on the pawl should face in the
same direction as the shoulder on the rotor that
it engages. The pawl should not bind on the
shoulder of the bolt that it pivots on.

11
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8.14. Move the parking brake lever to the OFF posi- 9. REVERSE CUT-OUT SWITCH ADJUSTMENT
tion. There should be roughly 1/16” clearance
NOTE: There are two reverse switches in the
between the lowest tooth on each brake pawl
wiring harness of the Z-Force.
and the nearest tooth on the rotor.
See Figure 8.14. NOTE: Both reverse switches are normally
closed and wired in parallel to feed power to the
electric PTO clutch. When both lap bars are
pulled back into neutral or reverse position, the
plungers on the switches are depressed, break-
ing the contacts within the switches. When either
switch is closed, but the other remains open,
power reaches the PTO clutch. When both sets
of contacts are open, the PTO clutch gets no
power, and turns off.
9.1. Unbolt control consoles using a 3/8” socket, and
remove the consoles.
NOTE: The consoles can be carefully set-aside
without disconnecting the throttle cable or the
Left side brake rotor: neutral switches that are attached to each one.
Shoulder in
9.2. Use a bungee cord or similar means to apply
Figure 8.14 light rearward force to the lap bar on the side
that is not being adjusted. This is will actuate the
8.15. If brake adjustment is necessary, loosen the jam switch not being adjusted, opening the con-
nuts that hold the threaded end of the cable tacts. With one switch actuated, the switch
housing into the bracket. being adjusted will control the PTO clutch.
8.16. Thread the nuts up or down the length of the See Figure 9.2.
threaded end as necessary to achieve correct
adjustment. Bungee cord

8.17. After adjustment is complete, install the wheels

and lower the rear of the unit to the ground.
8.18. Torque lug nuts to 40 ft. lbs.
8.19. Release hydro. pump rods from the small side of
the keyhole slot, and push them forward to
engage the hydros.
8.20. Test run the unit in a safe area before returning it
to service.
NOTE: If tracking is out of adjustment, biased in
the reverse direction, the brake pawl will wedge
into the brake rotor with force. This force is suffi-
cient to over-come the force of the brake return Figure 9.2
spring. If one or both brakes jam in the on posi-
tion, and the linkage appears to work normally,
check the tracking adjustment.

12
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9.3. To adjust the reverse switch bracket, loosen the 9.8. Repeat this adjustment on the opposite side
machine screws that hold the reverse switch reverse switch.
bracket to the control housing using a 5/16”
wrench. See Figure 9.3.

Reverse switch bracket

screw (accessible
from outside) One screw is accessible
from outside the control
console
Switch adjustment range

Blue wires
The other screw must be
reached from inside the
Reverse switch bracket control console.
screw (only accessible by
removing control console) Figure 9.8

Figure 9.3 9.9. If shop noise prevents the technician from

clearly identifying the “click” from the electric
NOTE: There is one screw on each switch that is PTO clutch, a 12V test light may be installed in
accessible from outside the control console, and the lead that connects to the PTO clutch.
one that cannot be reached without removing See Figure 9.9.
the control console
NOTE: The switch being adjusted should be just Green ground wires
loose enough to allow the reverse switch bracket
Install test light here if unable to
to be moved with light pressure.
hear the PTO clutch because of
9.4. Turn the key switch to the “ON” position, but do background noise.
not start the engine.
9.5. Pull forward on the lap bar that operates the
reverse switch to be adjusted. Pull forward just Blue wires from
far enough to take-up any play in the linkage, so reverse switches
that the control quadrant on the IHT is just at the
“forward” edge of the neutral range.
PTO clutch
9.6. Pivot the reverse switch bracket back, until an
audible “click” is heard, as the PTO clutch disen-
gages.
9.7. Tighten the screws, and double-check the Figure 9.9
adjustment. See Figure 9.8.
9.10. Install both control consoles when adjustment is
complete.
NOTE: install the control consoles with two bolts
each for testing purposes. After correct opera-
tion is confirmed, install all of the mounting bolts
in each control console.

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9.11. Test the operation of the mower and reverse 10. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM COMPONENTS
safety circuits in a safe area before returning the
This section is intended to help technicians identify the
unit to service. With the engine running, and the
location and function of specific components in the Z-
PTO switch turned on:
Force electrical system. In diagnosing an electrical
• The blades should turn when both lap bars are in problem, this section may be used for reference in con-
the forward position. junction with a wiring diagram.
• The blades should turn when one lap bar is in 10.1. The Seat Safety Switch is located in the seat
the forward position, and the other is in neutral assembly. The contacts in the switch are nor-
or reverse. mally closed (N.C.). When the seat is unoccu-
pied, the contacts close, energizing relay #2 and
• The blades should stop turning when both lap
relay # 3. When relay #2 is energized, and relay
bars are in non-forward (neutral or reverse) posi-
#1 is energized by the release of the parking
tion.
brake, a ground path is completed to the mag-
• The blades should begin turning again when neto, turning off the engine.
either lap bar is moved to the forward position. See Figure 10.1.
• The Z-Force is unique in the Cub Cadet product
line in that the PTO switch does not need to be
re-set after a safety switch PTO shut-down. As
soon as at least one lap bar is pushed forward, Seat switch
the blades will begin turning.
NOTE: Because this procedure involves safety
switch testing and adjustment, extreme caution
should be used in testing the operation of the Z-
Force.

Figure 10.1

NOTE: A pair of contacts are built into the har-

ness side of the plug, so that customers cannot
defeat the seat safety switch by simply unplug-
ging it. It will default into a closed circuit condi-
tion if unplugged. for diagnostic purposes, the
seat safety switch may be temporarily disabled
by a servicing dealer by pressing on the seat
directly above the switch. This will extend three
tabs. One of the tabs can be held in the
extended position using an alligator clip or simi-
lar device. Care must be taken not to return the
Z-Force to the customer with the seat safety
switch defeated.

14
 Z Force

10.2. The Parking Brake Switch is located on the right • One set of contacts (orange wire and orange
side of the control housing. It is accessible by wire with white trace) prevents the starter motor
removing the right side control console. The from turning unless the parking brake has been
switch is actuated by a retainer spring that set.
moves with the parking brake lever.
• The second set of contacts (red wire and red
See Figure 10.2.
wire with white trace) provide power to relay #1.
Parking brake lever When relay #1 is energized, a potential ground
Parking brake switch path is created to the magneto, through the neu-
tral switches that are activated by each lap bar.
Retainer spring If relay #1 is energized (parking brake set) and
the lap bars are moved from the start position
notch, the ground path is completed, turning-off
the engine.
10.6. The two park (neutral) switches are located in
the control console on each side of the Z-Force.
Each is actuated by the movement of a lap bar
into or out of the start position notch.
See Figure 10.6.

Start position notch

Figure 10.2

10.3. The parking brake lever must be moved out of

the way, and retainer spring removed to provide
clearance for removal of the parking brake
Orange wires
switch. (starter inhibit circuit) Park
switch
10.4. Inside the control housing, the squeeze the tabs
to remove the switch. The harness connector
Yellow and green wires
may be separated either before or after the park-
(magneto ground circuit)
ing brake switch is removed from the control
housing. See Figure 10.4.

Red wires Figure 10.6

Power to relay #1

Starter inhibit
circuit

Orange wires

Figure 10.4

10.5. There are two sets of contacts in the parking

brake switch. Both sets are normally open
(N.O.).

15
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10.7. Each park switch contains two sets of contacts.

One set of contacts in normal closed (N.C.). The
other set of contacts is normally open (N.O.).
PTO Switch
• The orange wires (one with black trace on the
right side, one with a white trace on the left side)
are in the starter inhibit circuit. They pass power
through the normally open set of contacts only Key switch
when the lap bars are in the “Start” position, Park (neutral)
depressing the plungers and closing the con- safety switch
tacts.
• The yellow and green wires are in the magneto
ground circuit. When relay #1 is energized by Relay #3 Relay #2 Relay #1
the application parking brake, the normally
closed contacts will complete a ground path to
the magneto when the lap bars are moved from
the “Start” position, releasing the plunger and Figure 10.10
closing the contacts.
10.11. Relay #1: See Figure 10.13.
10.8. The reverse safety switches are located on the
control housing, accessible by removing the left • Terminal A: 2 yellow wires. One goes to the
and right control consoles. (see previous sec- magneto, the second goes to the M terminal on
tion) the key switch.
10.9. Each reverse switch is located “down-stream” of • Terminal B: red wire, white trace. Energizes
the PTO switch. They are normally closed windings when parking brake is applied.
(N.C.). If the contacts of both switches are • Terminal C: 2 yellow wires with white traces.
opened (lap bars in non-forward position) power Each leads to the N.C. terminal on one neutral
is interrupted to the PTO clutch, stopping the switch via terminal E on the PTO switch. If either
blades. See Figure 10.9. lap bar is moved from the “start” position (notch)
while the relay is energized (brake applied) ter-
minal C will have continuity with terminal A, pro-
viding a ground path to the magneto, turning off
the engine.
• Terminal D: Green wire. Constant ground to
windings
• Terminal E: Yellow wire with black trace. Con-
nects to terminal A on relay 2. Terminal E con-
nects to terminal A when relay #1 is not
energized.

Figure 10.9

10.12. Relay #2: See Figure 10.13.

10.10. The three relays are positioned under the right
side control console. See Figure 10.10.

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 Z Force

• Terminal A: Yellow wire with black trace from 30 = A

relay #1, terminal E. When relay #2 is ener- 85 = D
gized, Terminal A has contact with Terminal E.
Terminal A has contact with terminal C when
relay #2 is not energized.
• Terminal B: 2 black wires. Power is provided to
the windings through the seat switch, when the
seat is unoccupied. Second black wire is a
jumper to terminal B on relay #3.
• Terminal C: 2 green wires. One is a jumper to
terminal D on relay #2. The second one is a
ground path through the G terminal on the key
switch. When relay #1 is not energized (parking 86 = B 87A = E
brake off) and relay #2 is energized (seat
87 = C
vacant), a ground path is provided for the mag-
neto, turning off the engine. Figure 10.13
87 = C
• Terminal D: 2 green wires. One is a jumper from 10.14. The key switch is located in the right side control
terminal C, the other is a ground path. The G console. The terminal locations are clearly
terminal on the key switch finds it’s ground marked on the back of the switch. The switch
through the jumper wire. functions as follows: See Figure 10.14.
• Terminal E: Empty. • Off: terminals G, M, and R, have continuity.
10.13. Relay #3: See Figure 10.13. • Run: terminals B,R, and L, have continuity.
• Terminal A: Yellow wire with black trace, from • Start: terminals B, S, and L, have continuity.
terminal B on the PTO switch. Terminal A has
continuity with terminal C when relay #3 is ener- N.C. terminals
gized by the absence of a butt in the seat. When N.O. terminals
the PTO switch is on, and the seat is empty, the Common
magneto is grounded, turning off the engine. terminals
• Terminal B: Black jumper wire from Terminal B
on relay #2. Provides power to the windings of
both relays when the seat is occupied.
• Terminal C: 2 Green wires. One is a jumper wire
to Terminal D. The second green wire leads to
the neutral switches, providing a ground path for
them through jumper to terminal D.
• Terminal D: Two green wires. One is a jumper to
terminal C. The other is a constant ground for
the relay #3 windings and terminal C.
Figure 10.14
• Terminal E: Empty.

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10.15. The PTO switch is located just behind the key 10.17. The voltage regulator / rectifier is located near
switch. the left front corner of the engine, adjacent to the
starter motor. See Figure 10.17.
• Terminal A (Common) to G: Orange wire with
white trace leads to parking brake switch from
terminal A. The N.O. contacts in the parking
brake close when the parking brake is applied,
completing the path to trigger the solenoid. The Regulator/
orange wire with black trace provides power to rectifier
terminal G when the N.O. contacts of both neu-
tral switches are closed by moving the lap bars A.C. out-put
into the “start” position. Starter inhibit circuit. from stator

• Terminal B (common) to terminal E: Yellow wire

with black trace leads from terminal B to terminal Magneto ground
A on relay #3, where it completes a path to
ground if the relay is energized by the seat
switch. Terminal E has 2 yellow wires with white Fuse (20A)
traces. Each one leads to the N.C. contacts on Regulated out-put
one of the 2 neutral switches. If the PTO switch
is turned on, and the seat is empty, a ground Figure 10.17
path is completed to the magneto, turning off the
engine. 10.18. To test stator out-put, disconnect the plug from
• Terminal C (common) to terminal F: A red wire the regulator / rectifier. Start the engine, and run
provides power to terminal C from the L terminal it at full throttle. Checking A.C. voltage at each
on the key switch. When the PTO switch is in white wire should yield a reading of roughly 11
the ON position, contacts are closed to terminal volts. See Figure 10.18.
F. 2 blue wires on terminal F provide power to
Black probe from Stator out-put leads
the PTO clutch via the 2 reverse switches.
DVOM to ground
10.16. The starter solenoid is located near the right
rear corner of the control console. Red probe
See Figure 10.16. from DVOM

Figure 10.18

STARTER SOLENOID

Figure 10.16

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10.19. Checking the out-put from the regulator / recti- 10.22. The reading on the DVOM will vary with the state
fier, by probing the red wire with the red lead of a of charge of the battery. The charging system is
DVOM set to read D.C. voltage while grounding rated at 13 Amps. If the battery is in need of
the black DVOM lead will show a reading of sys- charge, the reading on the DVOM may be as
tem voltage. See Figure 10.19. high as 11 Amps D.C., if the battery is fully
charged, a reading in the vicinity of 3 amps DC
is likely. See Figure 10.22.
System voltage

Shunt

Figure 10.19

10.20. To get a true reading of regulated rectified D.C. Figure 10.22

voltage from the alternator, it would be neces-
sary to remove the red wire from the molded 11. DECK LIFT SHAFT ASSEMBLY
connector. A much more useful measurement is
11.1. Remove the deck as described in the “Deck
D.C. Amperage. Because many DVOMs cannot
Removal” section of this manual.
measure beyond 2 or 3 amps D.C., an additional
tool called a shunt must be used. 11.2. Disconnect the negative battery cable using a
pair of 7/16” wrenches. See Figure 11.2.
10.21. To check DC output from the regulator / rectifier
utilize a Brigs and Stratton DC shunt (B&S part
number 19359) installed on the negative battery
post so that it is in series with the negative bat- Battery box
tery cable. Set DVOM to the 300mV scale. The
red test lead should be connected from the Volts
and Ohms plug on the DVOM to the test connec-
tion on the shunt that is closer to the negative
battery post. The black test lead should be con-
nected from the “COM” plug on the DVOM to the
test connection on the shunt that is nearest the
battery ground cable connection. Start and run
the engine at maximum speed (3,600 R.P.M.).

Steering link

Figure 11.2

NOTE: Generous access to the steering link

rods, bellcranks, and steering bellcrank shaft
can be obtained by removing the battery com-
pletely.

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Z Force

11.3. Take note of or mark the orientation of the steer- 11.5. Remove the cotter pins that hold each of the
ing bellcrank assemblies. See Figure 11.3. bellcranks in position on the shaft.
See Figure 11.5.
Bellcrank
Short arm
Long arm (outside)
(inside)
Flat washers

Bushings

Cotter pins
removed
Figure 11.3
Figure 11.5
NOTE: The long arm of each bellcrank connects
to the link leading to the hydro. The short arm on 11.6. Remove the bolts that hold each control console
each bellcrank connects to the steering input to the frame using a 3/8” socket.
shaft assembly.
11.7. Lift the left side control housing over the brake
NOTE: There are different part numbers for the lever, and set it out of the way.
left and right bellcranks. The arms are farther
NOTE: The throttle cable will still be attached to
apart from each other on the right bellcrank. The
the control housing. Be careful no to damage it.
arms on the left bellcrank are about 1/4” apart.
NOTE: Disconnect any electrical components
11.4. Disconnect the steering link rod that connects
that inhibit the movement of the control console.
each bellcrank to it’s steering input shaft assem-
bly using a pair of 1/2” wrenches. Disconnect the 11.8. Remove the right control console in similar fash-
steering link rods at the steering input shaft ion.
assembly end.
11.9. Remove the bolt that holds the steering
bellcrank shaft assembly to the frame using a
1/2” wrench. See Figure 11.9.

Bellcrank shaft

Figure 11.9

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 Z Force

11.10. Withdraw the shaft, catching the washers. Allow 11.16. Remove the short bolt that connects each lift
the bellcranks and steering link rods to hang handle arm to the lift shaft assembly using a 1/2”
down from the hydros. See Figure 11.10. wrench.
11.17. Spread the ends of the lift rod index apart and
disengage it from the lift shaft assembly.
See Figure 11.17.

Figure 11.10

11.11. If the bellcranks are to be removed (eg. for bush-

ing replacement), disconnect the control links Figure 11.17
from the IHTs, and remove them. They can be
easily serviced on the bench.
11.18. Separate the lift handle arms from the lift shaft
11.12. Move the deck height control to the highest posi- assembly.
tion.
11.19. Unbolt the lift hub assembly from each side of
11.13. Remove the nuts from the ends of the long bolts the control housing using a 1/2” wrench.
that connect the lift handle arms to the lift shaft See Figure 11.19.
assembly using a pair of 1/2” wrenches.
11.14. Using an appropriate tool, disconnect the exten-
sion springs from each lift handle arm.
See Figure 11.14.

Lift hub bolts

Short Long bolt
bolt (first nut removed)

Lift handle
arm

Lift shaft assembly Figure 11.19

Figure 11.14

11.15. Remove the second nut from each long bolt, and
remove the bolts completely.

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11.20. Loosen the bolts that hold the back of the gas 11.23. Remove the bolts that hold the control housing
tank to the frame at least three turns using a to the frame using a 3/8” socket.
9/16” wrench. See Figure 11.20. See Figure 11.23.

Control housing bolts

Rear fuel tank mounting bolts

Figure 11.20
Figure 11.23

11.21. Loosen the bolts that hold the back of the utility NOTE: There are three bolts along the front
bin to the frame at least three turns using a edge that come down from the top. Two bolts are
9/16” wrench. accessible from the bottom on each side. Two
11.22. Remove the bolts that hold the front of the fuel bolts are accessible from above on the rear cor-
tank and the utility bin to the front tank mounting ners of the control housing.
bracket using a 9/16” wrench. See Figure 11.22. 11.24. Lift the front of the control housing and support it
with a 4 X 4 or similar dimensional lumber.
See Figure 11.24.

Front fuel tank mounting bolts

Frame Control housing

Figure 11.22 J-nuts

Figure 11.24

11.25. Push the lift shaft assembly up into the top of the
control housing, allowing the arms to hang
straight down.
NOTE: Do not cock the lift shaft assembly when
manipulating it, or it will get stuck.

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 Z Force

11.26. Note the orientation of the lift links, and pivot 11.30. Slide the lift shaft assembly forward and out from
them to remove them from the arms on the lift beneath the control housing. See Figure 11.30.
shaft assembly. The slotted hole goes up. The
adjustment nuts on the right side link face the
inside of the machine. See Figure 11.26.

Lift links

Figure 11.30

11.31. Reverse the removal process to install the lift

Figure 11.26 shaft assembly.
NOTE: Lubricate the inside of the lift hub assem-
11.27. Pivot the lift links to free them from the T-bolt
blies with anti-seize compound before installa-
heads on the lift shaft assembly, and remove
tion.
them.
12. STEERING INPUT SHAFT ASSEMBLY
11.28. Note the orientation of the lift shaft assembly.
The T-bolt heads angle downward to the front. 12.1. Remove the deck as described in the “Deck
The small holes in the outer arms of the lift shaft Removal” section of this manual.
assembly go toward the top.
12.2. Disconnect the negative battery cable using a
11.29. Lower the lift shaft assembly and both lift hub pair of 7/16” wrenches.
assemblies through the gaps in the bottom lip of
NOTE: Generous access to the steering link
the control housing. See Figure 11.29.
rods, bellcranks, and steering bellcrank shaft
can be obtained by removing the battery box
Frame Lift shaft assembly See Figure 12.2.

Battery and
battery box
removed

Lift hub
Edge of gap in assembly
base of control
housing

Figure 11.29

Figure 12.2

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Z Force

12.3. Lift the control housing over the brake lever, if 12.7. Remove the outer bushing, and push the inner
working on the left side control console, and set bushing out of the hexagonal hole that it resides
it out of the way. in. See Figure 12.7.
NOTE: The throttle cable will still be attached to
the left side control console. Be careful no tot
Steering input shaft
damage it.
NOTE: Disconnect any electrical components
that inhibit the movement of the control console.
12.4. Remove the nut and socket head cap screw that
hold the pivot bracket to the steering input shaft
using a 1/4” Allen wrench and a 1/2” wrench.
See Figure 12.4.
Outer
bushing

Socket head
cap screw Figure 12.7
Pivot bracket
12.8. Maneuver the steering input shaft into a vertical
position so that it and the inner bushing can be
Steering input removed. See Figure 12.8.
shaft

Inner hex bushing

Figure 12.4
Inner bracket
12.5. Slide the lap bar and pivot bracket assembly off
of the steering input shaft.
NOTE: If the socket head cap screw has left a
burr on the steering input shaft, de-burr the shaft
before attempting to remove it.
12.6. Push the steering input shaft into the control
housing far enough to allow the removal of the
outside bushing.
Figure 12.8

12.9. Replace any parts that are worn or damaged,

and install the steering input shaft by reversing
the removal process.

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 Z Force

13. PIVOT BAR 13.5. If the pivot bar is to be removed, the foot rest
bracket must be removed first, using a pair of
13.1. Lift and safely support the Z-Force by the frame
1/2” wrenches. See Figure 13.5.
in front of the deck. See Figure 13.1.
Foot rest bracket

Figure 13.5
Figure 13.1

NOTE: The deck need not be removed.

13.2. Wheel removal can be done with two 3/4”
wrenches. Remove the nut and withdraw the 13.6. Remove at least one caster wheel assembly
axle bolt. using a 9/16” wrench. See Figure 13.6.
13.3. There is a spacer that fits over each side of the
wheel bearing, keeping the wheel centered
between the caster wheel mounting bracket.
See Figure 13.3.

Axle
bushing

Spacer
Figure 13.6

Figure 13.3

13.4. The roller bearings in the wheel ride on the axle

bushing. Other than regular lubrication with
grease, the bearing is non-serviceable.

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Z Force

13.7. The bushings can be driven out and replaced if 13.9. The pivot bar can be withdrawn once the pivot
necessary. See Figure 13.7. bolt is removed. See Figure 13.9.

Upper bushing

Long side of
Grease zirch
pivot hub

Pivot bar
Forward Short side of
pivot hub

Figure 13.7 Figure 13.9

13.8. The pivot bolt can be removed using a pair of NOTE: The pivot bar is off-set to the front. This
1 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 13.8. provides room for the caster wheels to swivel
without deck interference.
Really big Crescent wrench
13.10. The bushings that support the pivot bar can be
easily driven out for replacement.
13.11. When installing the pivot bar, tighten the nut until
a slight bind is placed on the pivoting action,
then loosen the bolt until the bind just goes
away.

Figure 13.8

NOTE: On installation, tighten the pivot bar nut

and bolt until front-back play is gone from the
pivot bar, but not so tight that movement is inhib-
ited by friction.

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14. ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS 14.3. If the control bracket is removed for any reason,
(KAWASAKI FH451V) it must be adjusted on installation.
See Figure 14.3.
14.1. The air filter cover is easily removed by releas-
ing the cam action latches at each side of the Idle throttle stop
cover. A wing nut holds the air filter element in
place. See Figure 14.1.

Slotted control
bracket mounting

Element Wing
Latches nut
Choke
adjustment
Foam pre-filter
Cable clamp
Air filter cover Figure 14.3

14.4. Adjust the position of the control bracket and

Figure 14.1 control cable so that the full range of control
actuation is available. The bracket is adjustable
using a 10 mm wrench. The position of the
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the air filter
cable in the clamp can be adjusted using a 6mm
for many carburetor adjustments. It will be left-
driver or a screwdriver.
off in this manual for the sake of visibility.
14.5. Set the idle throttle stop screw so that the engine
14.2. The carburetor is equipped with a bowl drain for
turns 1,000 to 1,100 R.P.M. when the throttle
off season storage as well as draining of con-
arm on the carburetor is held against the end of
taminated or stale fuel. See Figure 14.2.
the screw with light finger pressure.
Fuel pump Bowl vent See Figure 14.5.

Screwdriver

Fuel line
Crankcase vent

Bowl drain
Adjustment
screw

Choke / throttle cable

Throttle
arm
Figure 14.2

Figure 14.5
NOTE: Air filter housing completely removed for
figure 14.2
NOTE: It is necessary to insert phillips head
screwdriver through the label on the engine
blower shroud to reach the throttle stop screw.

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14.6. Set the governed idle to 1,550 R.P.M. using the 14.9. Adjust the choke using the screw on the control
screw at the lower right hand corner of the con- bracket. See Figure 14.9.
trol bracket. See Figure 14.6.
Choke
actuator arm Insert 1/4” pin

.100” gap
Governed idle (2.7mm)
adjustment screw Adjustment
screw

Figure 14.9
Figure 14.6
14.10. With the engine turned-off, insert a 1/4” pin in the
14.7. With the governed idle and idle throttle stop round hole when the throttle is set for top no-
adjusted, the engine should maintain a 1,550 load speed. This will lock the linkage in that
R.P. M. idle, but should not fall below 1,000 position.
R.P.M. unless the engine is over-loaded.
14.11. Using a phillips head screwdriver inserted from
14.8. Top no-load speed should be adjusted to within behind the left corner of the control bracket, set
the range of 3,600 to 3,650 R.P.M. This is done the choke adjustment screw to leave a .199” gap
by slightly bending the arm on the control between the tip of the screw and the point where
bracket that pulls on the governor spring. it contacts the arm that actuates the choke rod.
14.12. After all carburetion adjustments are made, run
Governor Governor rod the engine to double check the idle speed, throt-
spring (to throttle on tle stop, top no-load speed, and unimpeded link-
carburetor) age movement.
Governor arm
NOTE: Because the Z-Force engine is not
equipped with a fuel shut-off solenoid, after-
boom may occur if it is turned-off at idle speed.
This will cause no harm, but customers may find
it objectionable. To avoid after-boom, the engine
should be throttled-up slightly at the moment of
shut-down. The opening of the throttle plate will
reduce the vacuum level in the intake manifold,
preventing the ingestion of a rich fuel air mixture
Adjust here from the idle jet on over-run. After the ignition
(spark) is turned-off, the inertia of the engine will
Figure 14.8 pump unburned fuel and air into the hot muffler.
The presence of this mixture in the hot muffler is
NOTE: If high speed governor response is slug- the source of after-boom.
gish, check for interference between the gover-
nor rod and the governor spring.
NOTE: If high speed performance is weak, con-
firm that the choke is not closing prematurely.

28
 Z Force

14.13. Turn the engine off, and confirm correct choke 14.20. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of oper-
adjustment. Remove the air filter cover and air ation until the piston in the first cylinder to be
filter to confirm that the choke plate is fully adjusted is at top dead center on the compres-
closed when the choke is applied, and fully open sion stroke (both valves closed).
at the full-throttle position. See Figure 14.13.
14.21. Check the valve lash. Clearance between the
stem of the intake valve and the intake rocker
arm should be .004” - .006” (.10mm - .15mm).
Clearance between the stem of the exhaust
valve and the exhaust rocker arm should also be
be .004” - .006”.
14.22. If necessary, adjust the clearance using a 3mm
allen wrench to loosen the locks crews, and a
14mm wrench to move the adjusting nut.
See Figure 14.22.

Intake valve Adjusting nuts

Spark
plug hole
Figure 14.13 Locks crews
Check
lash
14.14. The valve lash should be checked after every here
300 hours of use.
14.15. If the Z-Force has been run recently, allow the
H.T. lead
engine to cool before adjusting the valves.
14.16. Clean the engine and surrounding area before Exhaust
beginning the valve lash adjustment. valve

14.17. Disconnect and ground the spark plug wires. Figure 14.22
14.18. Remove the spark plugs using a 3/4” spark plug
socket. 14.23. Torque the locks crews to 61 in-lb. (6.9 N-m),
and re-check adjustment.
14.19. Remove the valve covers using a 10mm wrench.
See Figure 14.19. 14.24. When adjustment is complete on the first cylin-
der, turn the crankshaft to bring the second pis-
ton to top dead center on the compression
stroke, and repeat the adjustment procedure on
the second cylinder.

Valve covers 14.25. Install the valve covers using new valve cover
gaskets. Install the screws through the valve
covers before positioning them on each cylinder
head. The gaskets are most easily positioned
on the valve covers rather than the cylinder
head. They will be held in the correct position by
the screws. Sealant should not be necessary.
14.26. Torque the valve covers screws to 17 in-lb. (.20
N-m).
14.27. Check compression for consistency between
cylinders. Optional: check leak-down. If more
Figure 14.19 than 10% difference is found, cylinder head
reconditioning may be necessary.

29
Z Force

14.28. Inspect and gap (or replace) the spark plugs 15.3. The cutting decks are all similar to those offer
prior to installation. elsewhere in the Cub Cadet model line, with the
exception of the mounting method and drive ori-
14.29. Spark plugs: Champion RC8Y or equivalent,
entation (front Vs. rear engine). See Figure 15.3.
gapped to .030” (.75mm).
14.30. Oil capacity: 1.6 U.S. qts. (1.5L) without filter
replacement. Use 1.8 U.S. qts. (1.7L) with filter
replacement.
14.31. Oil type: API Service Classification SF, SG, SH,
or SJ.
14.32. Oil viscosity: SAE30 will be suitable for most
operating conditions (32 deg.f. to 90 deg.f.).
Where temperatures exceed 100dg. f. SAE40 is
an acceptable alternative (68 deg. f. and up). If
multi-grade oils are used, an increase in oil con-
sumption is to be expected, and the oil must be
checked more frequently.
15. THE Z-FORCE MODEL LINE-UP
15.1. There are three engine and deck combinations Figure 15.3
available on the Z-Force for 2004.
See Figure 15.1.
• 42” two blade cutting deck with an 18.5 H.P.
Briggs and Stratton Intek single cylinder engine
• 44” three blade cutting deck with a 20 H.P.
Briggs and Stratton Intek V-twin engine
• 48” three blade cutting deck with a 22 H.P. Brigs
and Stratton Intek V-twin engine.

Figure 15.1

15.2. We have chosen to cover some service informa-

tion that applies to the Kawasaki engine offered
the 2003 Z-Force because it is likely to be less
familiar to technicians than the Briggs and Strat-
ton products.

30