Cedar-Strip Canoe

OK, we’re almost there, in Part 3 we will be Fiberglassing and finishing the canoe.

Now that the outside is covered with fiberglass, we can flip the canoe over, cover the
interior with fiberglass, and build the seats, decks and other trim.

Fiberglassing the inside of the canoe is like doing the outside. However, instead of a single
large sheet, which would be difficult to apply without wrinkles, the fiberglass is laid in
sections. The interior fiberglass is also left a little rough so you're less likely to slip, and to
reduce glare.

The trim is made from ash instead of cedar. The "gunwales" (the upper edges of the hull)
are the most important part of the trim -they protect the edge of the hull, they stiffen and
strengthen the entire boat, and they provide a place to attach the seats and thwarts. The
gunwales consist of a three-part sandwich: a strip of ash on the inside (the "inwale"), then
the fiberglassed hull, then a strip of ash on the outside (the "outwale"). The inwale has
openings in it so water can drain out when the canoe is upside down.

The seats are simply ash frames with prewoven cane in the middle, and the decks and
thwarts are simpler yet -just shaped pieces of ash. All are simply screwed or bolted on.

Here are the details.

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Part 3: FIBERGLASSING THE INSIDE AND ATTACHING THE TRIM
SHOPPING LIST QUANTITY
#20 - 1/4" x 1-1/2" hex head bolts with lock and flat washers 4
#20 - 1/4" T-nuts 4
Two-part epoxy glue
#6 - 1-1/2" flat head stainless steel screws 58
#6 - 1" flat head stainless steel screws 84
#6 - 5/8" flat head stainless steel screws 24
#10 - 24 x 5" flat head bolts with nuts, lock and flat washers 2
#10 - 24 x 4" flat head bolts with nuts, lock and flat washers 6
#10 - 24 x 2" flat head stainless steel bolts with nuts lock and flat washers 6
3/8" x 2" dowel pins 16
12" x 36" conventional weave cane 1 Piece
1/4" x 1O' cane spline 1 Piece
1-1/2" x 4" x 8" high-density foam rubber 2
10" x 14" vinyl upholstery fabric 2
Satin exterior polyurethane 2 Quarts

CUTTING LIST
KEY PIECES SIZE & DESCRIPTION
X 4 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 38" pine (sling stand legs)
Y 4 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 24" pine (sling stand feet)
Z 2 1-1 /2" x 3-1/2" x 21 " pine (sling stand braces)
AA 2 1/2" x 6" x 24" fir plywood (sling stand braces)
BB 4 1/2" x 10" x 20" fir plywood (sling stand leg supports)
CC 4 1/2" x 2" x 3-1/2" fir plywood (sling stand carpet cleats)
DD 1 52" x 60" fiberglass (inside center)
EE 2 48” x 60" fiberglass (inside)
FF 4 20" x 30" fiberglass (inside ends)
GG 2 3/4" x 7" x 16" ash (decks)
HH 1 3/4” x 5-1/2" x 34" ash (yoke)
JJ 2 3/4” x_4" x 8" ash (yoke pads)
KK 2 3/4” x 2-1/2" x 30" ash (thwarts)
LL 4 3/4” x 1-1/2" x 26" ash (seat Stiles)
MM 4 3/4” x 1-1/2 x 8” ash (seat rails)
NN 6 3/4” x 3/4" x 2-7/8” ash (seat supports)
PP 2 3/4" x 3/4" x 2" ash (seat supports)
QQ 2 1/2" x 3/4" x 130" ash (inwales)
RR 2 1/2" X 3/4" x 40-1/2" ash (bow inwales)
SS 2 1/2" x 3/4" x 29-1/2" ash (stern inwales)
TT 6 1/2" x 3/4" x 6" ash (inwale blocks)
UU 22 1/2" x 3/4" x 4" ash (inwale blocks)
VV 2 1/2" x 3/4" x 240" ash (outwales)

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MAKE THE SLING STANDS
Sling stands hold the canoe once it's off the strongback, so you can work on the interior.
They're also good for holding the canoe in the winter. Cut pieces X - CC to the finished
dimensions shown in the Cutting List, and assemble the sling stands as shown in Fig. A on
the next page.

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REMOVE THE HULL FROM THE STRONGBACK
Unbolt molds 2 - 6 and 8 - 12 from their mold supports. Use a rubber mallet to tap these
molds free from the hull.

Unbolt the remaining molds from their mold holders and remove the hull and molds from
the strongback (Photo 1). Place the hull in the sling stands.

Tap the remaining molds free from the hull. If you have trouble removing the end molds,
free them by hammering a stick against their top corners at the ends, forcing them toward
the middle of the canoe.

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Make a set of braces, one for every other mold position, to maintain the canoe's shape while
you're not working on it (Photo 2). They can be made of scrap wood strips, with nails
through the ends so the distance between the nails is equal to the width of the appropriate
mold. Set the braces across the canoe so the nails are inside the hull, preventing it from
bowing in.

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SAND THE HULL INTERIOR
Grind or file the blade of a paint scraper to match the tightest curve of the hull interior;
then scrape away the dried glue and any high spots from the hull.

Sand the inside of the hull smooth (Photo 4), starting with 40-grit and going through 60-,
80- and 100-grit. Sand the narrow ends by hand. A thin stick with sandpaper wrapped
around it will help you sand deep into the ends.

Apply one coat of polyurethane sanding sealer to the hull interior and sand lightly with
120-grit sandpaper after it's dry.

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CUT FIBERGLASS FOR THE HULL INTERIOR
Cut the fiberglass pieces DD - FF to the dimensions given in the Cutting List. Make sure
the two overlapping edges are both factory-finished edges.

Lay the fiberglass pieces DD and EE in position in the canoe and secure them with
clothespins (Photo 5).

Cut the inside end pieces FF to their finished shape, using the outside of the hull as a
guide to the shape. Allow enough material for 1-in. overlaps at the seams, save the scrap
pieces for use as repair patches.

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APPLY THE RESIN TO THE FIBERGLASS
Mix pint batches of resin so you have enough time to apply it before it sets up. Apply the
resin with a paint roller. Follow the safety precautions we described in Part 2 - wear gloves,
goggles and a carbon-filter respirator, and have plenty of cross ventilation.
Start with the center piece DD. Roll the resin onto the fiberglass in the bottom of the boat
first; work up the sides, removing the clothespins as you near the sheer strips; and then
work out toward the ends. Apply pressure with the roller to force the fiberglass onto the
hull. Make sure there are no areas where the fiberglass has pulled away from the hull. You
may need to slide the fiberglass down to remove any air pockets.

Realign the adjacent fiberglass pieces EE, lap their edges 1 in. over DD, then roll on the
resin.

Align and apply resin to one end piece FF at each end of the canoe. The other end pieces
will be applied later. Use a brush to apply the resin where the roller can't reach.

Now apply a second coat of catalyzed resin to all of the fiberglass on the hull interior. Set
the wood braces in place across the hull while the resin cures. Allow the resin to cure for
about one hour, then, using a utility knife, carefully cut the overhanging fiberglass edges
flush with the sheer strips. Allow the resin to cure overnight with the braces in place.

Complete the inside fiberglassing by applying the final two end pieces FF. Allow this resin
to cure overnight, too.

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FINISH THE INSIDE ENDS
Polyester resin putty is used to seal and finish the inside ends and protect them from water
damage. You mix the putty from the same resin you used for fiberglassing, plus a silica
thickener and glass micro bubbles. The thickener keeps the resin from running, and the
glass micro bubbles make it stronger.

Measure the putty components by volume: Thoroughly mix one cup (8 oz.) of the glass
micro bubbles into one cup (8 oz.) of resin. Add 5 oz. of the silica thickener to the resin and
micro bubbles and mix together thoroughly. Complete the mixture by adding I teaspoon of
catalyst and stir for one minute. Apply the putty in the ends with a rounded stick (Photo 6),
and let it cure overnight. Be sure to avoid putting putty in the top 1 in. of the end, where
the deck will fit.

Lightly sand the interior fiberglass with 120-grit sandpaper, then apply two coats of clear
exterior polyurethane.

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INSTALL THE DECKS
Cut the decks (GG) to size, finish-sand them, and round over the back edges. Screw each
deck to the hull with stainless steel screws (Photo 7). Offset the two screws at the end of
each deck so they don't interfere with each other. The deck is attached so that 1/4 in. of
the hull protrudes above it - this excess will be sanded off later.

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ATTACH THE GUNWALES
Cut out the inwales (QQ) and outwales (VV), which together will form the gunwales of the
canoe. To get pieces long enough, you may need to "scarf join" the ends of two shorter
pieces (Photo 8). Use epoxy glue.

Align and glue together the inwale pieces QQ - UU to make the inwales. Glue the blocks
(TT, UU) to QQ with epoxy glue and clamp them with spring clamps. Allow the glue to cure
overnight, then sand. Round over the inside edges of the inwales and the outside edges of
the outwales.

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The inwales and outwales are screwed, not glued, to the hull and set 1/4 in. below the top
edge of the sheer strip. That's so they hide the messy area where the tapered ends of
horizontal strips butt up against the sheer strip. The 1/4 in. of sheer strip that protrudes
will be sanded down flush with the gunwales later (Photo 12).

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Align and clamp one inwale to the hull. Trim one end so it fits tightly against the edge of the
deck (Photo 9).

Screw the inwale to the hull starting at the trimmed end and working down to the
untrimmed end. Countersink the screw holes in the hull and drill pilot holes into the inwale
to avoid splitting. As you near the other end, trim the inwale to fit against the deck, and
finish screwing it to the hull. Repeat this procedure for the other inwale.

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Mark the locations of the screws that attach the inwales and decks to the hull (Photo 10).

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Screw the outwales to the hull (Photo 11) just as you did for the inwales.

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Sand the hull flush with the decks and gunwales (Photo 12).

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MOUNT THE THWARTS
Cut the thwarts (KK) and yoke (HH) to the dimensions given in the Cutting List, shape them
according to the plans, and sand the edges smooth. Temporarily clamp the yoke under the
inwales in the center of the canoe to hold the canoe at its finished width. Don't bolt it on
yet. Set the thwarts on top of the gunwales, centered on their inwale mounting blocks.
Mark and cut them to length (Photo 13). Clamp the thwarts under the inwales, countersink
and drill their bolt holes, then bolt them in place.

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ATTACH THE SEATS
Cut the seat stiles (LL) and seat rails (MM) to the Cutting List dimensions, then assemble
them with dowels and epoxy glue to make the seat frame (Fig. B).

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The prewoven cane seat is attached as follows: (1) Rout a 1/4 x 1/4-in. groove in the tops of
the seat frame, using a straightedge to guide the router when cutting the rails (Photo 14);

(2) lay the woven cane sheet on top of the seat; and

(3) wedge the seat material tightly down in the groove with a thin wooden strip ("spline").

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The seat stiles must be slightly shorter than the hull width at the gunwales. This is
necessary because the seats hang down and the hull narrows as you go down. Start by
cutting the seat stiles to length at the gunwales, just like the thwarts. Slow1y trim the stile
lengths, equally on both sides, until the seats fit where they hang without being forced
against the hull. Use the seat supports ((NN, PP) as guides. For comfort, be sure the front
edge of each seat is hung lower than the back.

When the seat fits, clamp it to the gunwale on one side, and drill the mounting holes
through the seat and inwale. Drill the bolt holes at an angle to match the angle of the hull.

Repeat on the other side. Drill the bolt holes through the seat supports, then bolt the seat
in place (Photo 15).

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APPLY THE FINISH AMD MOUNT THE YOKE
Unbolt the seats and thwarts and remove the yoke so they can be varnished separately.
Apply two coats of polyurethane to all the trim and to the outside of the hull (Photo 16),
then remount the seats and thwarts. Be sure to varnish under the decks.

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If you want to put portaging pads on the yoke (Fig. C), drill holes for the bolts that join the
yoke and yoke pads (HH and JJ). Hammer the T-nuts into the yoke pads, upholster them
and then bolt them to the yoke.

Clamp the yoke to the undersides of the inwales with two small C-clamps. Set the canoe on
your shoulders and see how it balances. Adjust the yoke forward or backward on the inwale
until the canoe balances perfectly, then drill the yoke bolt holes and bolt it in place.

That's it - you're done! What a job, and what a beautiful canoe. Here are a few tips on
keeping it that way.

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MAINTENANCE
To avoid cracking the hull, always load and unload the canoe while it's in the water. If the
polyurethane starts to peel, clean it thoroughly, wash it with mineral spirits, and sand with
120-grit sandpaper. Apply another coat of polyurethane. If the hull becomes damaged, let it
dry; sand the damaged area; put a layer of fiberglass cloth over it, then three coats of resin,
just as you did when building the canoe. After the first two coats of resin are dry, sand the
edges of the patch out to a feather edge. Then apply the third coat of resin and varnish.

LAST FEW NOTES

These plans appeared in a Handyman magazine of years ago. I digitized and further
cleaned up the plans as I was building my own canoe. These modified plans are a result of
my own efforts at building this canoe, and I take no responsibility for any injuries that may
occur while building or enjoying this canoe.

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