Module On Forensic Photography Forens1 Sy 2022-23
Module On Forensic Photography Forens1 Sy 2022-23
Forensic Photography
CHAPTER 2. LIGHT
Photographic Light Rays
Two Mains Sources of Light
Classification of Daylight According to its Intensity
Sources of Artificial Light
Types of Electronic Flash
CHAPTER 5. EXPOSURE
Three Factors that Affect Exposures
Camera Exposure Modes
Determining the Correct Exposure
Two Types of Hand-held Exposure Meter
REFERENCES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Course This 3-unit course was given the course description “Forensic
description Photography.” This course is composed of three (3) modules
with sub-lessons. Each module is provided with its specific
objectives, the lessons proper, assessment questions to be
answered after reading each module, and references. Additional
instructions may be given by the subject facilitator.
Office: SCJPS Faculty office, 8F, FGB Building (or Building A),
University of Baguio, Gen. Luna Rd., Baguio City
This module contains three modules with sub-lessons, designed and arranged
accordingly to meet the standards of practitioners and students. Each module contains
specific objectives and references in order to help criminology and criminal justice
This course is one of the subjects in Criminalistics (one of the six (6) areas in the
Licensure Examination for Criminologists) as identified in the Commission on Higher
Education (CHED) Memorandum Order Number 21. The contents of this book were
based from the syllabus issued by the Professional Regulation Commission (PRC).
JEZREEL B. VICENTE
Faculty, SCJPS, University of Baguio
OBJECTIVES:
1. To trace the historical development of photography;
2. To understand the photographic rays, sources of light, classification of
daylight and light in general; and
INTRODUCTION
THE PHILIPPINE CRIMINAL JUSTICE SYSTEM REQUIRES THAT, AN EVIDENCE MUST BE
PRESENTED IN ORDER TO CONVICT OR ACQUIT THE SUSPECT. “NO EVIDENCE, NO CASE”, IS
THE LEGAL GUIDING PRINCIPLE. THERE ARE VARIOUS TYPES OF EVIDENCE, ONE OF WHICH IS
PHOTOGRAPH. THROUGH PHOTOGRAPHS, THE CRIME SCENE AND ALL PHYSICAL EVIDENCES
WITHIN IT ARE PRESERVED, WHICH ARE VERY NECESSARY IN THE SUCCESSFUL PROSECUTION
OF THE ACCUSED.
AS
INTEREST IN THE CAMERA OBSCURA GREW, THE DARK ROOM
BECAME SMALLER AND SMALLER UNTIL IT BECAME A BOX AND FINALLY, IT BECAME MORE OR
LESS PORTABLE. IT IS USUALLY MADE OF WOOD WITH A LENS ATTACHED AT ONE END. ON
THE OTHER END OF THE BOX, A MIRROR WAS PLACED AT A 45-DEGREE ANGLE. ABOVE THIS
NOTE: THE OPTICAL TECHNIQUE CAME ABOUT WITH THE REALIZATION THAT A
SMALL HOLE IN A WALL OF A DARK ROOM COULD PROJECT INVERTED
IMAGES ON AN OPPOSITE WALL. WITH THE CHEMICAL TECHNIQUE, ON THE
OTHER HAND, PEOPLE REALIZED THAT CERTTAIN CHEMICALS TURNED DARK
WHEN EXPOSED TO LIGHT.
- Although Daguerre and Fox Talbot are usually credited with the invention of
photography, it was niepce, in the 1820s, who was actually the first to capture and
reproduce lasting images.
- He found that bitumen of Judea, a compound that hardens when exposed to
light, could produce negatives.
- He called his process “Heliography” meaning “writing of the sun’’.
- One of his early heliographs from 1827, a view from a window that required an
eight-hour exposure, is the earliest photographic image in existence.
- In 1833, Niepce, the inventor of photography died.
COLOR PHOTOGRAPHY
The ability of film to record color is due to the presence of three layers of color-
yellow, red, and blue-on the film. When combined, these three colors represent the
majority of colors that we see.
PHOTOGRAPHY AND ITS PRINCIPLES
PHOTOGRAPHY
IS defined as an art or science that deals with the reproduction of images through
the action of light on sensitized material (film and photographic paper) with the aid of
camera and its accessories and the chemical processes involved therein.
It is the process of producing images of objects by the action of light, on
sensitized materials with the aid of an image forming device known as camera and its
accessories and the chemical process involved therein.
The process of forming and fixing images of an object or objects by the chemical
action of light and other forms of radiant energy on photosensitive surfaces.
The word photography is derived from two Greek words photos (light) and
graphos (chart or drawing or writing). Literally, photography means, “to draw with
light”
PRINCIPLES OF PHOTOGRAPHY
The mechanical and chemical result of photography is known as
PHOTOGRAPH. In making a photograph, light is needed aside from sensitized
materials (film and papers). Light radiated or reflected by the subject must reach the film
while all other lights are excluded. The exclusion of all other light is achieved by placing
the film inside a light tight box (camera).
The effect of light on the film is not visible in the formation of images of objects.
To make it visible, the exposed film must be process chemically called development,
using a chemical known as developer.
The visual effect of light on the film after development depends on the quantity or
quality of light that reached the emulsion. Too great in the amount of light will produce
an opaque of a very black shade after development. Too little light will produce a
transparent or white shade after development.
The quality of light reaching the film is dependent upon the following factors:
a. Lighting conditions
b. Lens opening
c. Shutter speed
d. Film speed
e. Photographic filter
Macro Lens
The camera lens that is capable of taking photograph of extreme close-up shots
without the need of close-up attachment.
LIGHT
Light
Is a form of energy which makes it possible to see. The radiant energy that makes
things visible.
Speed of light – 299,793 kilometers per second or 186,000 miles per second
KINDS OF RADIANT ENERGY
Infra-red rays
Ultra-violet rays
X-rays
Visible lights (or simply light) (for normal photography)
Cosmic rays
Gamma rays
Radio waves
Note: Visible light is only a tiny fraction of the electromagnetic spectrum.
Visible
Electromagnetic radiation that can be perceived by the normal, unaided human
eye and has wavelengths between 3,900 and 7,700 angstroms (Riverside Webster’s II
Dictionary, revised edition; page 398)
Angstrom – a unit of length equal to one (1) hundred-millionth (10-8) of a centimeter.
Electromagnetic spectrum – The whole range of radiant energy that includes infrared
rays, ultra-violet rays, x-rays, radio waves, gamma rays, cosmic rays, microwaves and
visible light. The term for the entire spectrum of energy, that includes visible light.
PHOTOGRAPHIC LIGHT RAYS
1. X-RAYS – These are radiations having a wavelength between .01-30 millimicrons or
nanometer. They are produced by passing an electric current through a special type of
vacuum tube. It is used to detect and identify hidden object in boxes and other
containers. It penetrates objects which are impervious to visible light.
2. ULTRA-VIOLET RAYS – These are radiations having a wavelength of 30-400
millimicrons or nanometer. When this invisible light comes in contact with a particular
substance or matter, it will produce the phenomenon known as fluorescence.
The continued emission of light without accompanying heat after exposure to and
removal of a source of stimulating radiation will produce a phenomenon known as
Phosphorescence.
For photographic purposes, ultra-violet rays are produced artificially by means of
specialized electric light called mercury- vapor lamp or quarts mercury vapor lamp.
Aside from ultra-violet lamp, it is necessary to place a filter over the artificial ultra-
violet lamp or over the lens of the camera to strain out visible light and permit only
The contrast depends upon the sunlight available in the daylight, when the sun is
not covered by clouds, the contrast is high and the photograph or negative is said to be
contrasty. On the other hand, when the sun is covered by clouds, the contrast is low
and the photograph or negative is said to be “FLAT“.
Kelvin scale is used to describe the color temperature of different sources of light.
Color-Cast - The unnatural color affecting the whole image. It occurs when daylight-
balanced film is exposed to tungsten light, or vice versa. Casts can also occur when
flash is bounced from a colored wall or ceiling, or when daylight is reflected from a
colored building.
1) Bright light – A lighting condition wherein objects in open space cast a deep or
uniform shadow.
In bright light, the subject will produce strong shadow, because the source of light
is not covered by clouds.
The object in open space under bright light appears glossy and the color is
saturated.
In black-and-white photography, the object or subject looks contrasty.
2) Hazy light – A lighting condition wherein the objects in open space cast a
transparent shadow.
In hazy sunlight, the sun is covered by the clouds and shadow appears bluish
because of the decrease of light falling on the subjects in open space.
The shadow cast is transparent to the eye and more details are visible under this
lighting condition than in bright sunlight.
When the sunlight is obscured by light clouds, the intensity of the direct light
falling on subject in open space is decreased. In effect, the light coming from the
sky becomes stronger that the shadows appear more bluish than in bright
sunlight.
3) Dull light – A lighting condition wherein the objects in open space cast no
Shadow.
In dull sunlight, the sun is totally covered by thick clouds. No shadows are
formed, due to the uniform illumination of lights all around the subjects in open
space.
2. ARTIFICIAL LIGHT – It refers to those lights, which are man-made.
It refers to the man-made sources of light which is used or utilized for indoor
photography to augment the adverse lighting condition.
Artificial light includes all non-natural sources, such as continuous light from
incandescent and fluorescent light bulbs, electronic flashes, and studio strobes.
1. Fluorescent lamps
2. Incandescent lamps/tungsten light
Household incandescent or domestic tungsten
Photo incandescent or photographic tungsten
3. Photoflood lamps
4. Infrared lamp
5. Ultraviolet lamp
Short duration
1. Flash bulb (chemical flash lamp) - Flash bulbs are good for only one flash and
then thrown away, so a photographer has to carry many of them.
2. Flash cube – powered by batteries in the camera. Can take 4 pictures. Light from
flash cubes lasts about 1/30 of a second.
3. Flash bar – powered by batteries in the camera.
4. X-Cube – it does not require batteries. It fires mechanically like a cap pistol.
5. Electronic flash – A short intense burst of light produced by an electronic flash for
use in illuminating a situation. Unlike old-fashioned flash bulbs, it could be used
only once, electronic flashes are powered by batteries and can be used
indefinitely.
Type of flash that discharges an electric current through a gas-filled tube to
produce a short burst of bright light. Batteries usually provide power, although
studio flash requires plug-in power.
It is produced by an instantaneous electric discharge between two electrodes in a
gas-filled bulb.
A lighting unit utilizing the flash of light produced by discharging a current
between two electrodes in a gas-filled tube.
Artificial light source produced by passing a charge across two electrodes in a
gas.
A brief, intense source of artificial light.
Flash can be used both outside and inside, and can be modified with a huge
range of diffusers, reflectors, and other materials.
By examining natural light and its qualities, you will get a good idea of how to use
flash lightings. (Encyclopedia by Davies)
The light created by an electronic flash also has the same color balance as
daylight, which is an important consideration when you are using color film.
(everything)
The burst of light made by an electronic flash unit lasts only about 1/1,000 th to
20,000th of a second. This makes flash great for delivering sharp photographs as
it eliminates blur caused by motion.
2. SLAVE UNIT OR SLAVE FLASH – A flash unit used to supplement light from a
main flash.
It fires every time it senses a flash going off.
3. RING LIGHT – A flash unit used for close-up photography that encircles a camera
lens.
4. ACCESSORY FLASH UNIT – This unit attaches to the accessory shoe (also called
a hot shoe) on top of the camera or to a flash bracket that attaches to the camera.
More powerful than built-in flash units.
They are also more versatile. You can make their light more diffuse by aiming
them upwards or sideways.
They also make possible variety of special flash techniques that are far beyond
the capabilities of built-in flash.
a. Manual- These flash units require you to figure out the correct exposure for your
shooting conditions. Because the duration and intensity of the flash from a manual unit
does not change, you have to adjust lens aperture to control the amount of light that
reaches the film. Aperture settings are determined by dividing the flash’s guide number
(which indicates the flash’s light output) by the distance to the subject. The resulting
number is the correct aperture. Most manual flashes have calculator dials or scales for
making these calculations.
b. Automatic: These flash used automatic sensors to control light output and duration
based on the distance from the camera to the subject. When you set the aperture you
want to use, the flash will automatically calculate how much light is needed to illuminate
a specific distance range, such as 3 to 15 feet., the flash unit will have an electric eye
that reads the amount of light bouncing back from the subject. When the correct amount
of light has been reached, the flash is turned off. Most automatic flashes have several
different range and aperture settings and can be set manually as well.
c. Dedicated flash unit- They’re made to work with your camera’s specific electronic
(hence The name), and they’ll do all the thinking for you, automatically Setting the
correct shutter speed and aperture and controlling the expose by regulating flash
duration (that is, its intensity).
It is designed to tap into the camera’s circuitry when you slip it into the
camera’s dedicated hot-shoe a top the viewfinder. Thus connected and switched on, it
automatically sets the right flash-sync shutter speed, activates the viewfinder’s flash-
status indicator (flash changing, flash read), and automatic exposure control.
This flash fits into the hot shoes on top of the pentaprism. Electrical contacts
connect with the camera shutter, automatically triggering the flash.
This type of flashgun can be very sophisticated for its size, and fully
integrated unit (dedicated flash) allows greater versatility.
Disadvantages:
4. Can’t be adjusted to create more pleasant illumination, such as bouncing the light
off the ceiling to lessen shadows.
5. Light reflects directly off subjects, meaning they often create flash glare from
glasses or even skin if it’s shiny enough.
DEFINITION OF TERMS:
Flash range – The maximum and minimum distances that a flash will cover.
Remedy: Move the flash unit away from the camera lens. Obviously, this cannot done
this with built-in flash units.
Red-eye reduction flash mode - It emits a pre-exposure light burst to “stop-down” the
subject eye so less light can be reflected back from the retinas.
Flash synchronization speed is a shutter speed you can use when working with flash
unit to obtain evenly lit results.
A shutter speed that ensures the shutter has completely cleared the film plane
when the flash is fired.
Guide Number is a rating of the flash unit’s illuminating power, provided by the
manufacturer.
Just divide the number the flash-to-subject distance into the guide number, and
the result is the f- stop or the size of lens opening. If the guide number is 80 for the film
speed you are using, and the flash unit is 10 feet from the subject, 80 is divided by 10
equals f/8.
Supposed the number is 160, and then at 10 feet (3m) the lens would be set at
f/16, at 20 ft. 8m f/8 and so on.
Note: The farther away you get from the subject, the larger the aperture you must use.
When the subject is a long way off, you won’t be able to open the lens enough to
provide proper exposure.
Guide number determines the amount of light that a flash unit will yield at a given
distance.
The strength of a flash unit is described by its number.
The bigger the number the more light output can reach a particular distance.
Flare – Non-image forming light which reduces image quality by lowering the contrast
and washing out colors?
Vignette
A darkening of the corners of a picture.
A darkening of an image around the edges.
It occurs if a lens hood is too small, producing a circle of darkness around a
picture.
Panning – A technique for photographing moving objects in which the camera is moved
in the same direction as the subject.
Following action in the camera’s viewfinder.
A method of moving the camera in line with a moving subject such as a racing
car.
This produces a blurred background but keeps the subject sharp, thereby giving
a greater effect of movement in the final image.
Photogram – An image made in photographic paper without a negative.
A photograph made without a camera by positioning one or more objects
between a light source and photographic film or paper.
The image is made by placing objects directly on the paper and exposing it to
light. Opaque objects lying flat against the paper produces a clearly defined
silhouette.
Also called camera less photography.
Lens Barrel – A metal cylinder where a lens is, and usually consists of several pieces
of glass.
Lens elements – Series of lenses inside the camera tube or lens barrel.
DX Code – A bar code on a 35mm cassette that contains information such as film
speed. This is read by sensor inside the camera, which adjusts itself automatically.
All new film cassettes have a printed set of squares that are detected by sensors
in the film chamber of most modern cameras.
Each speed of film has a unique combination of squares, allowing the camera to
read and set this information on the exposure meter.
The camera will set ISO 100 if it encounters an old cassette without these coded.
1. Light-tight box - The frame of the camera in which all other parts are mounted.
An enclosure, which would prevent light from exposing the sensitized material
inside the camera.
2. Lens – A medium which converges or diverges light passing through it to form
images.
3. Shutter – The device that regulates the amount of time that light reaches the
film.
The mechanism that opens and closes to allow light into the camera. Shutter
opens and closes for a certain timed intervals that are called shutter speed.
4. Film holder – An essential part of a camera which is designed to hold the film in
place at the back of the camera so that the image produced by the lens will be sharp
over the whole picture area.
5. Viewfinder – The optical window used to view the subject being photographed.
- it is a means of determining the field of view of the camera or the extent of the
coverage of the lens.
1. Film advancer – A part of the camera that advances the film one frame each
time the shutter is released.
2. Diaphragm – A device that controls the amount of light that passes through a
camera’s aperture to strike the film. It is also called as adjustable aperture.
3. Shutter release button – A button used to open the shutter during exposure.
4. Pentaprism – A five-sided prism usually found on the top of a 35mm SLR
cameras.
5. Hot shoe – The slot with electrical contacts on top of a camera where a flash
mounts. Electrical contacts in the base of the shoe trigger the flash to fire when the
camera shutter is open.
6. Shutter speed dial 23. Film sprockets
7. Film speed dial 24. Film take-up spool
8. Frame counter 25. Film anti-curl roller
9. Self-timer lever 26. Aperture/focusing index
10. Aperture ring 27. Film plane indicator
11. Hand grip 28. Motor drive coupling
12. Hot shoe contact 29. Motor drive shutter coupling
13. Viewfinder/eyepiece 30. Film rewind button
14. Shutter curtain/focal plane shutter 31. Distance scale/focusing scale
15. Depth-of-field preview lever 32. Tripod socket
16. Sync cord terminal 33. Motor drive electrical contacts
17. Lens mounting index 34. Film rewind knob
18. Reflex mirror 35. Battery chamber lid
19. Lens release button 36. Film pressure plate
20. Film cartridge chamber 37. Multiple exposure lever
21. Film guide rails 38. Camera Back
22. Film guide pin 39. Shutter speed dial
Interchangeable lens – Lens that can be removed from a camera body and
exchanged from a different focal-length lens or other accessory.
There is no parallax error in this type of camera. The difference in view between
the scene encompassed by the lens and that seen through the viewfinder.
This effect is more pronounced the closer you are to the subject. Distant objects
are unaffected.
2. Twin Lens Reflex (TLR) Camera - A camera that uses two lenses of the same
focal length – one on top for viewing and focusing the image, and one on the bottom for
taking the picture.
Twin lens reflex cameras use medium format film and make 2¼ x 2¼ inch
negatives, such as a Rolleiflex TLR camera.
A camera that uses two lenses of the same focal length – one to focus with and
the other to expose the film. The top lens is used to focus the camera using
reflex mirror and ground glass viewing the area. The lower lens contains the
shutter and aperture control to expose the film.
4. Digital Camera – A camera that changes visual data into electronic digital
information, which then can be viewed or manipulated on a computer.
5. View Camera – A large-format camera, using individual pieces of 5x4 inch (12.7
x 10cm) film or larger (5x7, 8x10, 11x14), with a lens panel mounted on a flexible
bellows and a ground-glass screen at the image plane for viewing and focusing.
This type of large and cumbersome camera is normally mounted on a sturdy
tripod. Also known as a technical camera.
View/technical cameras are used most often by professionals, either in the studio
or on location for subjects such as buildings.
10. Disposable Cameras – Cameras that are supplied with pre-loaded film. When
the film has been exposed, the whole camera is taken into the processing laboratory.
11. Cell phone Cameras
Focusing is the setting of proper distance in order to form a clear or sharp image/s.
A lens maybe focused by any of the following:
1. Split-image - The image of a straight line in the object appears to be cut into
halves and separated from each other when the lens is not in focus.
2. Coincident image – They are focused by matching two images of the subject. In
this type of focusing, a single image is seen double when the subject us out of
focus.
3. Ground glass – A type of focusing where the image or images are directly
focused at the ground glass screen behind the taking lens.
If the image being focused is blurred or not clear, the lens is out of focus.
When the image is sharp or clear, the lens is in focus.
CAMERA ACCESSORIES
5. Extension tube - A tubular device that fits between the lens and the camera
body to enable the photographer to take a close-up picture.
The degree of close-up available varies with the length of the tube used.
Extension tubes are made of metal in different lengths and can be used singly or
in combination to give fixed degrees of subject enlargement.
6. Lens Hood - A device used to eliminate some reflections of light, which might
destroy the image cast by the object especially when the light is coming from the top
or side portion of the camera.
A device that is attach to the front of the camera lens to prevent flare.
Flare is a non-image forming light which reduces image quality by lowering the
contrast and washing out colors.
It causes whitish appearance, less color saturation and poor detail.
Flare is caused by pointing the camera toward a light source, and/or not using a
lens hood.
It refers to unwanted light within the lens, resulting in a loss of contrast in the final
image.
7. Motor drive - A device, either built into the camera or available as add-on
accessory which is used for advancing the film continuously after each exposure the
shutter-release button depressed.
Rate of exposure varies depending on the motor drive model and shutter speed,
but up to six frames, a second is possible.
b. Contrast Filters – These filters are used to lighten or darken certain tones in black-
and - white images.
Contract filters are available in six colors: Red, green, blue, yellow, magenta and cyan.
To lighten the color – use a filter of the same color
To darken the color – use a filter of complimentary color
For example, if you want to darken a blue sky, use a yellow filter, if you want to lighten,
like a green board, use a green filter.
In black- and – white photography, photographic colored filters are generally used to
provide contrast between objects of different colors that would reproduce as about the
same shade of gray if no filter were used.
The primary color filters allow only that particular primary color to pass through
– that is, red allows red to pass through, blue allows blue, and green allows green.
Complimentary color filters work in the same way. Yellow, a mixture of red and
green, so yellow filter allows only those two colors to pass through, and so on.
1. A finger impression made from a stamp pad ink (violet colored), while very legible to
the eye is a problem when photographed with an ordinary film because it lacks contrast.
To improve contrast, the use of YELLOW FILTER will help tremendously.
3. Skylight Filter – A lens filter used to diminish the amount of ultraviolet light reaching
the film.
a. A very pale filter used to absorb ultraviolet light. It has the effect of reducing blue
casts on color photographs.
b. Also haze filter or ultra-violet filter
c. It is a colorless filter designed to remove excessive ultra-violet from the light from
passing through the lens.
d. A UV filter may be left on the camera lens all the time to protect the lens from
dirt, knocks, and scratches
e. UV filters do not affect exposure.
f. The skylight filters (UV absorbing) is a general-purpose filter that has two
important uses:
Absorbs UV light, which human cannot see but to which the film is sensitive.
Protects the lenses from rain, sand, grit, and so on.
4. Light Balancing Filters – These filters are used to warm up or cool down the colors
in content of a scene.
Also called as color correction filter.
Pale-colored filter used to warm up or cool down slightly the overall color content
of a scene.
5. Color conversion filters – A light filter used to convert a film balanced for a
particular color temperature to another light source; example: daylight-balanced film
used in tungsten lighting requires an 80A filter.
6. Color compensating filter – A light filter used to make small changes to the balance of
an image.
Color compensating filters are available in six colors (red, green, blue, yellow,
magenta, and cyan) and in various lengths.
7. Neutral Density filter – A transparent piece of glass or plastic that cuts down the
light entering the lens without changing its color.
A gray-colored lens filter that reduces the amount of light reaching the film
without affecting colors of the subject.
2. SPECIAL EFFECT FILTERS – These filters are intended to give special effect to
pictures.
Note: A filter transmits light of its own color and absorbs light of complementary colors.
Therefore, it causes objects of its own color to appear lighter and objects of
complementary colors darker on the photograph.
Because filters absorb some light, you must increase the exposure to
compensate the loss of some light.
Each filter is given a “Filter Factor”, which indicates how many times the initial
exposure needs to be multiplied to make for the loss of some light reaching the film.
Filter Factor – A number indicating how much exposure needs to be increased when
using filters.
Example: A yellow filter has a factor of x2. If the proper reading without the filter were
1/250 at f-8, then with the filter, it would be either 1/125 at f-8 or 1/250 at f-5.6.
Generally, it is best to change the f-number or f-stop rather than the shutter
speed, unless depth of field is a concern.
CONVERSION TABLE
Note: Many filters reduce the amount of light reaching the film, so you may need to
compensate the exposure when using them. The amount of increase required is
indicated by a number called Filter Factor.
ASSESSMENT QUESTIONS:
1. Make a summary of the historical development of photography. Link all the
pioneering personalities with their major contribution to the history of
photography.
2. Explain the photographic rays, sources of light, classification of daylight
and light in general.
3. To identify and explain each part of the camera.
OBJECTIVES:
1. To identify and explain the classification of lenses according to focal
length, lens aberrations and degree of correction
2. To identify and explain the factors that affect the exposure and all other
modes and type of exposure.
3. To explain the three factors used in controlling the depth of field; and
4. To show how to obtain a maximum depth of field.
CAMERA LENS is the medium or system which converges or diverge rays of light
passing through it to form an image/s.
A piece of transparent glass or plastic designed to focus light rays into an image.
The primary function of lens is to focus the light rays coming from the subject.
It is chiefly responsible for the sharpness of a picture.
Focal length is the distance measured from the optical center of the lens to the film
when the lens is set to be focused at infinity position.
The distance between the center of the lens and the point at which light rays
passes through it in focus.
It is the optical distance at infinity, to the focal point.
Focal length is the determining factor of how wide the area of coverage of a lens
as well as the size of the image that is produce.
Focal plane – A plane at which light from the lens is brought into focus.
Infinity – Any distance beyond he point where a lens no longer needs to be focused to
produce a sharp image.
1. Positive lens is a convex lens, which is characterized by the fact that it is thicker on
the middle than the edge and formed a real image on the opposite side of the lens.
A lens that converge light, that is why it is also called as a converging lens.
It requires proper focusing.
It forms inverted image.
It is used in camera lens.
2. Negative lens is a concave lens, which is characterized by the fact that it is thinner
on the middle than the edge and formed a virtual image on the same side of the lens.
It done not require focusing at all.
It forms virtual image.
It is used in viewfinder.
Negative lens is also known as diverging lens.
FOCAL LENGTH is the distance measured from the optical center of the lens to the film
when lens is set to focus at infinity position.
1. Standard or normal lens – A lens with a focal length equal to the diagonal of its
negative material.
The normal lens produces “normal”-looking images.
A 35mm camera produces 24 x 36mm images on the film.
The diagonal measurement of the 24 x 36mm frame is 43mm.
50mm is the closest focal length to the figure.
50mm is considered normal lens.
Called normal or standard vision.
It has an angle of view of 46 degrees similar to the angle of view of human eye.
It neither distorts perspective nor magnifies or diminishes or reduces the size of
the subject.
Angle of view – A measurement of how much a lens sees and indirectly related to focal
length. It is measured by degrees.
2. Wide angle lens – A lens with a focal length of less than the diagonal of its negative
material.
It covers a wider field than normal lens.
It is used to take photographs or pictures of limited space or narrow.
It is useful in a photographing a crime scene with a very narrow space.
24mm, 28mm, and 35mm are considered wide-angle lens.
Useful for broad panoramic scenes or landscapes or when space is tight or you
cannot move far back from your subject.
Also known as short focal length or short focus lens.
3. Telephoto lens – A lens with focal length of approximately equal or more but not
more than twice the diagonal of its negative material.
A lens with longer focal length with small area of coverage.
In this lens, the subject will appear closer to the lens and the resulting image/s of
the subject or object in the negative will be large.
It is used to capture distant subject or object.
It is useful in stake out surveillance photography where the photographer or
police photographer cannot get close to the subject.
Useful for broad panoramic scenes or landscapes or when space is tight or you
cannot move far back from your subject.
Also known as short focal length or short focus lens.
4. Telephoto lens – A lens with focal length of approximately equal or more but not
more than twice the diagonal of its negative material.
A lens with longer focal length with small area of coverage.
In this lens, the subject will appear closer to the lens and the resulting image/s of
the subject or object in the negative will be large.
It is used to capture distant subject or object.
It is useful in stake out surveillance photography where the photographer or
police photographer cannot get close to the subject.
80mm to 1200mm are considered telephoto lens or long focal length or long-
focus lens.
5. Super wide or ultra wide angle lens – a lens with a shorter focal length but has
larger area of coverage or angle of view than a wide angle lens.
It is not advisable in photographing a crime scene of limited space because it will
distort the objects of the scene itself.
21mm down are considered super wide angle lens.
This gives you an option to capture near and far objects or subject without
changing the lens of your camera and aperture.
Example of zoom lens: 28-80mm, 28-105mm, 70-210mm and 28-200mm
Allows you to fine-tune subject framing by adjusting the focal lens.
Reversed Fixed Mounted Lens Method – A method used to take extreme close-up
shots of minute objects, by detaching the normal lens in the camera, then attaching the
lens in inverted position and moving the camera itself nearer of farther from the subject
for focusing.
LENS ABERRATIONS
LENS ABERRATION– The failure of the reflected or refracted light to give a point
image of a point source, due either to the geometry of spherical surfaces of mirror or
lenses.
It produces blurring or distortion image due to the abnormal shape of lens.
Meaning, lens defect or error.
3. Astigmatism – The inability of the lens to focus in both horizontal and vertical
plane at the same time. The inability of the lens to focus in both lines running in different
direction likes for example, a cross.
4. Distortion - outer parts of the image produced by the lens will be magnified
either less or more than the outer image.
a. Pincushion distortion – In pincushion distortion, there are straight lines near the
edges of the frame bow toward the center of the frame. The curving is inward.
b. Barrel distortion – In barrel distortion, straight lines near the edges of the frame bow
outward from the center. The curving is outward.
5. Coma – This is known as lateral aberration. It is concerned with rays entering the
lens obliquely. A lens defect that produces a blurred comet-like image.
The image of a flat subject does not appear flat because of the sharpness of the
center and the edge is out of focus. Therefore, direct focusing of the center will make
edges blurred.
Correct Exposure or Normal Exposure - It refers to the right amount of light in order
to produce good quality image on the film.
Generally, a proper exposure is one that results in a picture that looks like the
scene you photographed with details in both dark and light areas. Films produce the
best photographs when exposed properly.
Overexposure – It refers to allowing the film to receive too much light, giving rise to a
pale print.
Underexposure – It refers to allowing the film to receive too little light, giving rise to a
dark print.
1. Lens Aperture is defined as that, which controls the amount or intensity of light
passing through a camera lens before reaching the film.
Aperture – The hole through which the light enters a camera. A diaphragm controls the
size of the aperture.
Diaphragm – A device that controls the amount of light that passes through a camera’s
aperture to strike the film. It works by controlling the size of the aperture opening.
Diaphragm is calibrated in f-stops or f-numbers.
F-number is a series of numbers used to describe the size of lens opening or aperture.
“The higher or bigger the f-number, the smaller the lens opening, meaning,
less light enters through the camera lens”.
“The smaller the f-number, the bigger the lens opening, meaning, more
light enters through the camera lens”.
“The larger the opening, the greater the amount of light that reaches the
film”.
B,1,2,4,5,15,30,60,125,500,1000,2000,3000,4000
Bulb setting – The shutter speed setting at which the shutter release is triggered and
closes when the shutter release button is depressed.
The shutter speed of 1/125 and above is capable of stopping the movement of
the subject.
The shutter speed of 1/60,1/125 and above is recommended speed to be used
when handholding a camera with a 50mm focal length but if the lens used is
300mm, you should use a shutter speed higher than 300mm which is either 500
of a second or higher.
The following aperture and shutter speed combinations, allow the same amount
of light, and thus will produce the same exposure.
EXPOSURE METER – A handheld or built-in devise that reads the intensity of light
falling on or reflected by a subject and, taking the film speed into account, recommends
a shutter speed and aperture to achieve correct exposure. Also known as light meter.
Incident light meter – An exposure meter that reads the light falling on an
object.
Reflected light meter – An exposure meter that reads the light reflected by the
subject.
It is useful when you want to select slightly darker or lighter prints than the
exposure system would normally produce, or when it is different to judge the best
exposure.
In any case where you are not sure about your exposure or when it is difficult to
judge the best exposure, use “Bracketing Method”
Also known as “Trial and Error Technique”
To bracket exposures, you can vary either the lens aperture or the shutter speed,
depending on the effect you want and the type of subject.
If Depth of Field is important, work out the aperture required and then alter the
shutter speed only in order to change the exposure each time.
18 50 11 8 5.6 4 2.8 2
27 400 - 22 16 11 8 5.6
30 800 - - 22 16 11 8
DEPTH OF FIELD is the distance measured from the nearest to the farthest object in
apparent sharp focus when the lens is set or focused at particular distance.
The term depth of field is used to describe how much of what the camera sees in
focus.
Also known as the zone of focus.
This is the distance in front of, and behind the main focus that is acceptably
sharp.
This will vary depending on the aperture selected, the focal length of the lens,
and the focal distance.
The DOF you select normally covers an area of 1/3 in front of your point of focus
and 2/3 behind.
Depth of focus – It refers to the distance that a camera back can racked back and forth
while preserving satisfactory image detail in focal plane for a given object point
1. Lens aperture – The smaller the aperture, the greater the depth of field.
2. Dist
anc e to
subject (focal distance) – The farther the camera-to-subject distance, the greater the
depth of field.
5o
mm-f-5.6 50 mm-f-5.6 50 mm-f-5.6
Note: Whatever the depth of field you select, it normally covers an area one-third in
front of your point of focus and two-thirds behind.
a. The problem of obtaining the optimum or maximum depth of field is what point to
focus. This can be done by using a HYPERFOCAL FOCUSING METHOD
b. To do this. Set your focus at infinity distance, and check your depth of field scale
to see what is the nearest point of sharp focus at the aperture you are choosing.
Then refocus again using the hyper focal distance or nearest distance.
Hyperfocal Distance is the nearest distance at which a lens is focus with a given
particular diaphragm opening which will give the maximum depth of field. It is a point of
focus at which you can use and obtain maximum depth of field at a particular given
aperture.
ASSESSMENT QUESTIONS:
OBJECTIVES:
1. To understand the use and concepts of film;
2. To identify and explain the types of photographic film, photographic
papers;
3. To identify the basic chemical needed to develop film and paper;
4. To be able to develop a film and print paper;
5. To identify and explain the processes in print paper development
6. To define crime scene photography and to apply the methods of crime
scene photography.
Sensitized Materials – It refers to film and photographic paper, which are composed of
an emulsion containing light-sensitive dyes (in color films and paper) silver halides
crystals (in a black-and-white film and paper) suspended in a gelatin and coated in a
transparent or reflective support.
2 PARTS OF FILM
A. Silver Halide
B. Gelatin
Note: There is no need to worry about the color balance in black and white film,
because B & W film can be used in any lighting conditions.
Anti-halation backing – A coating usually gelatin at the back of a film, containing a dye
or pigment for the purpose of absorbing light rays thus preventing the light from
reflecting back from the film base through emulsion.
Function of Anti-halation backing is to prevent light from passing through film base to
emulsion.
2. Color Film is more complex and consists of three layers of light-sensitive emulsion
with layer sensitive to a particular color – red, green, or blue. During exposure, blue light
from a subject will affect the silver halide crystals in the blue-sensitive layer of the film
and so on.
The silver crystals are then bleached out, leaving just the complementary colors.
Various combinations of the same colors produce all the other colors in the photograph.
When a color negative is printed, a similar process takes place in the three layers
of the printing paper, whereby the complementary colors of those in the negative form in
the relevant layer of the paper. This therefore, reverses the colors on the negative back
into the colors of the original image.
Color transparency film goes through a reversal process during film processing
so that the image on the film is a positive-that is, the color of the original image are the
same as the colors on the processed film.
1. Blue-sensitive layer
2. Green-sensitive layer
3. Red-sensitive layer
Film Speed –A Scale used to indicate the sensitivity of film to light. All films have
different speed sensitivity to light, they are recognized as follows:
1. Slow Film (ISO 25-100) – Less sensitive to light but deliver sharper, more finely
grained images, more saturated colors and more contrast.
2. Medium-Speed Film (ISO 200-400) – These are used for moderate action.
Ideal for general purpose in a wide range of lighting conditions.
Can be used both in outdoor and indoor photography.
Can be used day and night.
Note: In night surveillance photography, the film speed recommended is from 800 to
1600 ISO. In general, slow films are less sensitive to light but deliver sharper, more
Grain – The particles of silver compounds that form an image on photographic film and
paper.
Graininess – The term used to describe the visual appearance of the clumps of light-
sensitive material making up the film emulsion sometimes seen on prints.
This normally occurs only on very large prints (or projected transparencies). Fast
higher-ISO film shows grain more readily than does slow lower ISO film.
The grainy appearance of photographic enlargement is more prominent on
higher speed film
Note: The higher the ISO number, the more sensitive the film is and the less exposure
it requires.
2. DIN – The abbreviation for Deutsche Industrie Norm, the European Film Rating
System superseded the ISO System. This is expressed in logarithmic value system or
logarithm numbers.
1. Color negative film – A color film that produces a negative image for prints. Also
called color print film.
2. Tungsten-Balanced Color Film – A color film that is color balanced for use in
artificial light sources at 3400 K, Tungsten light.
1. Panchromatic Film – A type of film that is sensitive to all colors wavelength of the
visible spectrum.
Note: B&W Panchromatic Films are sensitive to every color in the spectrum. They are
more sensitive to certain colors, because of this, filters are use to lighten or darken
object of a particular color.
2. Orthochromatic Film – A Film that is sensitive to all colors of the visible spectrum,
with exception of red.
3. Blue Sensitive Film – A Film that is sensitive to ultraviolet rays and blue color only.
Suitable for ultraviolet photography.
4. Infrared Film – This is a special type of film that is sensitized with colored dyes to
make it record only invisible infrared or heat waves.
It is also sensitive to blue light so special filters have to be put over the lens.
Film that has the longest or widest range of spectral sensitivity in the
electromagnetic spectrum.
1. Small Format (35mm) – The most common type and is used in compact and SLR
cameras.
36 mm Width
24 mm
35 mm Width
43 mm Diagonal Depth
2. Medium Format (120 Roll Film) - Different formats can be achieved from 120 Roll
film which is 2 ¼ inches (6cm) wide by altering the length of the frame such as
B. PHOTOGRAPHIC PAPERS
I. According to contrast.
Two Factors that determined the contrast in a negative
a. Exposure
b. Development
An overexposed or overdeveloped negative is too dark or dense.
An underexposed or underdeveloped negative is too thin or flat.
Because it is not always possible to produce negatives that are exactly normal in
tonal range and contrast, contact and enlarging papers are made in several
contrast grades or degrees.
Note: In printing, low-contrast prints are gray with few bright or dark areas; high contrast
prints are most light and dark with few gray areas.
Contact Printing – A method of making prints wherein the size of the positive print is
the same as the size of the negative used.
3. Silver Chlorobromide Papers – These are coated with an emulsion that combines
silver chloride and silver bromide.
Note: These emulsions are much slower than those used on film.
These are generally used for large prints because they stand up better under
rough treatment.
DW papers are also recommended for portrait and exhibition photographs, and
for prints larger than 8 x 10 inches.
Note: RC papers are usually light or medium weight; Fiber-based papers are either
single or double weight.
b. Base or Base Type
1. Resin Coated (RC) Paper – printing paper with a plastic coating under the emulsion.
RC papers are coated on both sides with a very thin layer of clear plastic.
RC papers have an acetate coating, applied to the back of the base to prevent
the absorption of processing solutions, which causes the expansion and
contraction (shrinkage) of the paper.
Expose more quickly than fiber-based papers.
Take less time to process, wash and dry.
In addition, they do not curl as much as fiber-based papers during drying.
It is not a good conductor of heat.
Water resistant.
2. Fiber-Based Paper – are used for exhibition purposes and fine art collections
because the fiber surface is more appealing that the RC surface.
3. Surface/Texture
Surfaces of photographic paper have different textures and produce photographs for so
many different purposes.
F – Glossy Paper (smooth) – Glossy surfaces give maximum detail and brilliance.
Smooth papers are recommended for small prints that require good definition.
The smooth photographic paper is necessary for law enforcement photography,
so that the details of the image will appear and appreciated by the viewers.
Note: The glossier the surface, the sharper the appearance of the image.
DEFINITION OF TERMS
Wetting Agent – chemical that weakens the surface tension of water, and so reduces
the risk of drying marks on film.
It helps or is used to eliminate the water spots and streaks that form while the
film is drying.
Is a chemical that causes liquid to run off quickly
The purpose is to prevent water spots and streaks
Latent image – The invisible image on a photographic film or paper. The latent image
must be developed before it can be seen.
Negative image – An image on which the black and white tones are reversed.
Developing tank – A light-tight container for developing film
Contrast – The difference in the densities of various areas in the negative.
Developing reel – The device used in film wherein the film is winded along its spiral
groove so that no surface of the film will touch each other thus assuring even
development
Dodging – A printing technique used to lighten areas of a print by selectively
withholding light during the print exposure. Also known as shading.
Shading - A printing technique of increasing the amount of exposure received by a part
of a print in order to darken part of the image.
Burning – A printing technique used to darken areas of a print by selectively adding
more light after the initial exposure. A printing technique of decreasing the amount of
exposure received by a part of the print in order to lighten that part of the image.
Three (3) Basic Chemicals needed to develop film and photographic paper:
Four (4) steps in developing photograph (Each step requires specific amount of time)
CHEMICAL PROCESS
1. Temperature 4. Concentration
2. Chemicals 5. Exposure
3. Agitation
b. Stop Bath – A chemical solution that stops the development or stops the chemical
action of developer.
An intermediate bath between the developer and fixer.
It is usually a combination of water and acetic acid or just plain water.
Primarily, its function is to prevent the contamination of the two chemical solution
(developer and fixer)
Fixer – A chemical solution that stops excess emulsion from photographic film or paper.
It washes away all the emulsion that hasn’t been darkened by the developer or exposed
by light.
For D-76 developer, the required developing time for film for small
developing tank is 5 ½ minutes. For large tank or developing tank is 6 ½
minutes.
Recommended temperature for D-76 developer is 68 degrees Farenheight or 20
degrees Celsius. Although anywhere between 65 to 75 degrees is usually
acceptable.
Fixing time: The normal fixing time of a negative is 10-12 minutes.
Agitation time during developing and fixing: 30 seconds interval
Washing in running water : from 15 – 20 minutes
Immersion in wetting agent: 1 minute
B. The developing process (Film processing) using the stainless steel tank and
reel.
1. Take the temperature of the developer, and determine the correct developing
time. Usually 68 degrees Fahrenheit or 20 degrees Celsius.
2. Pour the developer into the processing tank. Start the timer as soon as the
developer is in the tank.
3. Gently tap the bottom of the tank against a table or give the tank a sharp tap with
the heel of your hand to remove any air bubbles that trapped in the developer.
4. Agitate the tank for the first 30 seconds of development. To agitate, gently rotate
the tank in a circular direction, then invert it. A typical method is to invert the tank
three times every 30 seconds.
5. At the end of the development time, open the lid of the drainage opening of the
developing tank and pour the developer away and pour in a stop bath for about
30 seconds and don’t forget to agitate.
6. After pouring the stop bath, pour the fixing solution into the tank and agitate. The
fixing process usually takes 5 to 10 minutes in a regular fixers and 2 to 4 minutes
in a rapid fixers.
7. Pour out the fixer and save it for reuse.
8. Wash the film in clean running water for a minimum of 20 minutes ( 20 to 30
minutes).
9. Rinse the film in wetting agent ( a mild form of detergent that helps the water to
flow off the surface of the film with out leaving drying marks).
10. Gently wipe it through a special film squeegee or even two fingers that you have
wetted with the wetting agent.
11. Lastly hang the film and attach a weight to prevent it from curling during drying.
1. Place the negative on the negative carrier then insert the negative carrier in the
enlarger head. The negative should be placed side up, but with the image upside
down.
Note: It is advisable to conduct a test strip with a range of exposures time. The purpose
is to enable you to determine the correct exposure and contrast for the final printing.
A primary consideration when you are printing a negative is how dark to make the
print. It must be remember that print exposure times vary with the following:
1. The density of the negative
With a very thin negative, it is better to stop down the lens to a smaller
diaphragm rather than use a very short exposure time.
With a dense, overexposed negative, it is better to open up the aperture, rather
than use a very long exposure time.
Generally, try to use exposure times from 5 to 20 seconds.
2. The size of the enlargement
3. The chemistry
4. The developing time
5. The aperture of the lens
6. The enlarger itself
The exposure might be correct on one enlarging machine but may not be
correct on another. The best way to determine the print exposure times needed for a
particular negative is to make a test print or test strip.
A test strip is necessary to determine the exposure time when making a print
because density of the negatives varies, and the exposure changes with differences in
the height of the enlarger. the test strip was made with the aperture at f-22, and the
exposure was set for 5-second increments. The first exposure is the darkest and the
The procedure for black-and-white prints is similar to that for film, with a
developer, stop bath, fixer, and wash.
1. Pour the print developer in the first tray to a depth of ½ inch or so. Stop bath in
the second tray and the fixer in the third tray.
2. Immersed the exposed print paper in the developer emulsion-side up and shale
or agitate it well for 30 seconds. The appropriate developing time is 2 to 3
minutes. Stop the development when the desired tone has been obtained. Drain
off the developer well, and then immerse the paper in the stopper.
Note: the development time will vary depending on the developer you use.
1. Put print paper in the stop bath. The stopping time is 20 seconds. Agitate the
print paper well in the stop bath. After draining off, immerse the paper in the fixer.
2. Drain the print and put it into the third tray filled with fixing solution for the
recommended time usually 15 to 20 minutes in the reverse position (emulsion
side facing down).
3. Wash the print paper in running water for 20 to 30 minutes.
4. Dry the print paper with warm air at around 40 degrees Celsius.
Excessive temperature may result in excessive curling of the print paper.
CRIME SCENE – A place where the crime was perpetrated and physical evidence
found thereat.
It does not only refers to the focal point of the crime scene but also the
adjacent area of the crime scene.
Note: Upon arrival at the scene of the crime, photograph the whole area before
anything is moved. Take shots from several angles to show the entire area.
a. INDOOR
First shot – Forensic Photographer must establish his first shot of general view by
photographing the area, to show whether the crime scene is a residential, factory, busy
street or is located at the jungle.
Second shot – the exact building where the crime was committed and it must be shown
on the photograph taken by the Forensic Photographer if it is a private home,
residential, alleys, etc.
Third shot – the main entrance, take two shots of the possible entrance and exit of the
perpetrator, usually in robbery cases the perpetrators enters at the window.
Fourth shot – before proceeding to the main scene of the crime, hallways and other
adjacent rooms must be photographed.
Fifth shot – this is the exact place. It may be a room or a toilet. It is advisable to use
the wide angle lens in a limited space to show the angles.
Sixth shot – close-up shots are applicable to the object/s attacked to show the extent of
damage and other vital evidence to locate, identity of the victim and to determine the
number of perpetrator.
OUTDOOR
1. Geographical conditions of the area around the crime scene. Each shot must be
shown it it is a residential, factory or a busy street.
2. Other related houses, passages in the vicinity.
3. Evidence left behind on the scene and other traces scattered over the crime
scene in the nearby roads.
4. Blood stains for external walls of the victim’s house.
5. Conditions of the corpse.
PHOTOGRAHIC VIEWS
2. Medium view –This is to show the four angles of the crime scene including the
possible route path of the suspect.
This is used to establish the modus operandi of the suspect.
Mid-range photograph are taken in a manner which portrays the crime scene
from approximately ten to 20 feet from the subject.
4. Extreme close-up shot – to show the extent of damage or injury caused by the
suspect.
Note: If a single photograph cannot show the entire crime scene, apply this method.
SEXUAL OFFENSES
The crime of rape may be taken as typical of this class of offense. There must
be a written permission from the victim, the photograph must be taken in the presence
of the parents/guardians or medico legal officer. Indications of the victim’s efforts to
resist, such as bruises or black and blue marks and evidence of the presence of either
or both parties at the scene.
Photograph of the stains or marks should also be taken at the crime scene. After
the stains have been photographed, specimens should be carefully preserved for
submission to the medical doctor or other specialists whose duty is to identify them and
prepare photomicrograph for use as evidence.
THE SUSPECT – The suspect’s body may show evidence of the physical struggle, such
as scratches or bruises, foreign hairs f fibers that may be discovered by the physician.
The garments of the suspects may reveal bloodstains, semen, hair strands, etc.
He must show whether there is any evidence of struggle and try to show what
happen before, during, and after the commission of the crime. Obvious evidence such
as cigarette butts, blood stains or broken glass must not be overlooked.
The circumstances of death can be illustrated by various views of the body. Take
close-up shots of the wounds, bruises, weapon used and the place where it was taken.
NOTE: Always cover the private parts of the dead body before taking photographs
during autopsy.
SUICIDE – In responding to any cases, Forensic Photographer should not assume that
the case was a homicide. Careful work is very important to determine how the crime
was committed.
SUICIDE BY SHOOTING – Photograph both the entrance and the exit wounds. The
exit wound is always larger than the diameter of the bullet. Usually, the hair
surrounding the entrance is singeing and the skin is burned to a reddish or grayish-
brown color. If it is fired from a range of less than eight inches, lack of residue may be
evident.
1. Take photographs of the general view of the building where the robbery
occurred.
2. Photograph the point of entry, begins with a distant shot, and work yourself into;
get close-up shots to show the forcible entry. Look into the windows including
the pathways.
3. Photograph each room in the house or building which was disturbed.
4. Take some shots of all furniture or articles, which show evidence of being
ransacked.
5. If you can determine the criminal’s exit, photograph it. Usually, the robber may
leave something especially when someone surprised him such as hat, gloves,
and scarf or cigarette butts.
ROAD/TRAFFIC ACCIDENTS
1. Avoid unnecessary surroundings/objects that are not pertinent to the case. “See
through the driver’s eye.”
2. Take four shots and 25 feet distance from the point of impact.
3. Take close-up shots on the damaged area in low angles from a distance of 8-10
feet.
4. Photograph the following:
ASSESSMENT QUESTIONS
2. What is the most important lesson which I can apply in my daily life?
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Inc.
Stroebel, L.; Compton, J.; Corrent, I.; Zakia, R. (2000). Basic Photographic Materials
and Processes, (Second Edition). United States of America: Focal Press.
Villarba, W. H. (2011). Laboratory Manual in Criminalistics 2 (Police Photography).
Quezon City: Wiseman’s Books Trading Inc.
Villarba, W. H. (2015). Forensic Photography for Criminology Students and Practitioners
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