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Electric Iron Repair

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Yes, people do still iron. This Fix-It Guide on electric iron repair tells how an electric iron works, what often goes wrong, how to
identify an electric iron problem, and what parts and tools you will need to fix it. It then gives simple step-by-step instructions for
how to clean an iron, how to service an iron steam and spray mechanism, and how to clean a metal soleplate. This Fix-It Guide
also refers to electrical cord repair and appliance control repair for more information on specific repairs.
How Does an Electric Iron Work?
Whether it’s a basic no-frills iron, a cordless model, a compact travel iron, or an electronic iron loaded with features, all steam
irons work in the same way. They press out wrinkles in fabric using moisture, pressure, and heat. When the steam valve is closed,
the iron operates dry. When the steam valve is open, water drips into a heated steam chamber, where it exits as steam through
vents in the soleplate. The iron’s working surface, the soleplate, may be plain metal or coated with an easy-to-clean nonstick
material.
What Can Go Wrong with an Electric Iron?
Fortunately, there is very little inside a well-made iron that can go wrong. Most repairs are for faulty cords, damaged handles,
and mineral deposits that hamper steam irons. Problems with an iron’s electronic complements should be dealt with by an
authorized service center. It typically is more cost effective to replace rather than repair an iron with internal problems. Check the
owner’s manual for your iron to learn the manufacturer’s suggestions for cleaning, what water to use, and storage tips.
Fix-It Tip
Soft-water systems add minerals that can harm an electric steam iron and your clothes so don’t fill the iron with
softened water. Instead, use filtered or distilled water.
How Can I Identify an Electric Iron Problem?
As with many small appliances, regular maintenance makes a dramatic difference in how trouble free your electric iron will be.
Even so, things can happen.
• If the iron doesn’t heat, make sure power is on to the outlet, check the electrical cord, and check the thermostat (see the Appliance Controls Fix-It
Guide) and replace if necessary.
• If the iron heats but steams improperly, inspect the soleplate and clean the vents (see below) and flush sediment out of the steam chamber (see
below).
• If the iron produces too much or too little heat, test the electrical cord. Also test and, if needed, adjust calibration of the thermostat (see
the Appliance Controls Fix-It Guide).
• If the iron does not spray properly, inspect and clean the nozzle (see below).
• If the iron leaks or spits, clean the steam vents, nozzle, and tank.
• If the iron sticks to fabric, clean or repair the soleplate. If the iron stains fabric, clean the soleplate, clean the tank with a commercial cleaner, and
use distilled or filtered water.
Caution!
Iron carefully around buttons, zippers, and other attachments or decorations that can scratch the soleplate.
 What Do I Need for Electric Iron Repair?
Larger hardware stores may have replacement parts for popular brand electric irons. Also, you can get them from the
manufacturer or an aftermarket supplier. Maintenance and repair tools you’ll need to fix an electric iron include these:
• Screwdrivers
• Toothpicks or pipe cleaners
• Sewing needle
• Commercial electric iron cleaning solution or vinegar and water
• Commercial soleplate cleaner or baking soda and water
• Steel wool
• Emery cloth
• Metal cooking pot
What Are the Steps to Electric Iron Repair?
Clean an electric iron:
1. Unplug the iron and make sure it is cool before cleaning.
2. Use a toothpick or pipe cleaner to remove buildup in the steam vents, making sure the debris doesn’t fall into
the vents.
3. Use a fine sewing needle to carefully clean the spray nozzle of mineral deposits.
4. To flush sediment from a steam iron, pour 1/2 cup water and 1/2 cup vinegar into the water tank. Place the
iron on a rack over a broiling pan and set the iron to steam until the tank runs dry. Repeat if necessary. Or
follow the instructions for using a commercial iron cleaner.
Service an electric iron steam and spray mechanism: Access the internal parts of an electric iron
1. Unplug the iron. by removing the rear cover panel. Some
irons have unique fasteners to keep you
2. Use a fine sewing needle to unclog the steam valve assembly. Also, check the valve spring and replace it if it from opening them. Check with your local
is broken or has lost tension. hardware store for an appropriate
3. If the spray pump is accessible, remove it and check for leaks by placing the spray tube in water and squirting screwdriver.
the pump. Clean or replace as needed.
Clean an electric iron metal soleplate:
1. Unplug the iron.
2. Use a sponge and commercial soleplate cleaner or baking soda and water to remove dirt buildup on the soleplate. Rinse well with water and dry.
Don’t use harsh abrasives or immerse an electric iron in water.
3. Use very fine steel wool (0000) or an emery cloth to remove scratches and burns on the soleplate, then clean the soleplate.
Fix-It Tip

Why is my Iron not heating up? when powered on

CHOSEN SOLUTION
POSTED: JUN 30, 2014

OPTIONS
Zack @zack38828
Rep: 139
Get a multimeter. Check that the fuse is OK. If it is ok, open the cover at the back of the iron. Plug in the iron. Be careful not to
get2electrocuted. Check that the cables from the socket on the wall have power. place the leads of the multimeter on the live and
neutral and check for 240V or 110v depending on your country. If no power here cable could have a problem.
1
If there is power here, turn of power and unplug socket. open top cover, you will see the heating element. Check for continuity
between
1
the ends of the element, If no continuity the element is dead and you need to buy a new iron. If it has continuity then
check continuity of other components connected in series with the element. Some models a limit thermostat to prevent the iron
from over heating. This looks like a small resistor about one centimeter long, if it has no continuity, cut it off and bypass it. It is a
safety device that fails when it senses high temperatures in case the main control thermostat fails. If you can find a replacement
replace it, if you cant find a replacement, you can use it and hope the main thermostat does not fail.

lights up but no heat I have not used it much

Normally Heating devices are protected with what we called “Thermal Fuse” which are connected

in Series to the Main Line, If you can locate it it looks like a small fuse, crimped in a wire sometimes and comes in a different
color like yellow, white or black.

sometimes it is covered by a shrinkable tube if you know it.

If you can use a Multimeter you can test the Leads of the Heating Element from end to end

there should be a low resistance reading from your meter should appear, if it not reads at all then your heating

filament is open. Its a sealed type.

please think always Safety do not work on it with Power connected , be sure Unplug the Power and

ask for a qualified serviceman if your not sure on doing it.

•Normal, without steaming. Recently, they have been unpopular, but they are the cheapest and most compact, and can be
purchased as a “derivative” option. For trips, business trips, etc.
•With steamer. There is a built-in water tank inside, the sole has numerous small holes. The container is located above the heating
element of the iron. During operation, water in small portions (the amount depends on the steaming mode set) is supplied to the
heating element, where it turns into steam and exits through the holes in the platform.
•Irons with a steam generator (ironing system, steam station). These models have a large capacity for water, which has its own
heating element built into it. The container is connected to the iron by a steam pipe and an electric cord. The water in the
container turns into steam, it is fed into the sole under a certain pressure through the steam pipe, and exits through the holes.
The most common irons with steamers, it is their repair that we will consider further. First, you should familiarize yourself with
the structure of the equipment. So repairing the iron with your own hands will be easier. Knowing the composition of the device
and the purpose of its parts, you can name the possible causes of problems.

Iron with steamer

Generally speaking, each iron consists of a body, a handle, a temperature regulator and a soleplate with holes through which
steam is supplied to the ironing area. To support the steaming mode, a water container is built into the body of the iron, and there
are also steaming intensity regulators.

The device of the steaming system

Modern electric irons of this type have several steaming modes. To understand how everything works, you need to consider how
it is all arranged. After all, it is often necessary to repair the iron with your own hands not because the iron does not heat up, but
because there is no steam. And here it is important to understand what exactly is the matter.

Modern models have three steaming modes that have individual buttons. Each button activates its own pump, which, depending
on the settings, delivers the required amount of water. There are the following modes and pumps:

•Soft (normal) steaming with steam intensity regulator. Set the regulator to the desired position (usually modes 4-5) and steam is
supplied continuously (until the water runs out) at certain intervals.
•Steam blow. A sharp one-time release of steam that occurs when the corresponding button is pressed.
•Drip irrigation. A small portion of water is sprayed from a small nozzle located in front of the handle when a button is pressed.
Simpler models (of the previous generation) usually have a sprinkler and a steaming mode. Their structure is somewhat
different. The first difference is that the sole heating regulator is moved to the handle (however, not always), the steam regulator
is also located on the handle, but it is made in the form of a rotary disc.

The spray button, in such models of irons, is located between the temperature and steam controls.

Electrical diagram of the iron

Do-it-yourself iron repair is impossible without an electrical circuit. As you can see, the basic scheme of an electric iron is not
much different from the scheme of a kettle or boiler. The main differences are in the form of heating elements and other
additional devices.
Electrical diagram of the iron

There are only a few elements in the scheme: a connecting block, a heating element, a thermostat and a thermal
protector. Thermal protection can be different. In the simplest case, this is a fuse. In more complex models, this is a shutdown
device in case of overheating. Since there are not many elements of the scheme, repairing the iron with your own hands is not the
most difficult task.

How to disassemble an iron

If the iron does not work, the first thing to do is to disassemble it. It is not as simple as it seems – there are too many models,
each of which can have its own “chips”. Moreover, different models of the same manufacturer can be understood
differently. Nevertheless, there are general principles and rules:

•Remove the back cover of the handle. This allows access to the terminal block. In case of some damage (problems with the cord
or failure of the heating element), this is enough and there is no need to disassemble the iron further.
•After removing the back cover, in most models you can immediately remove the handle. It can be attached to the body in the
most unexpected places, so carefully examine all the details.
•Remove the buttons for the supply of steam, steam blow, sprinkler, thermostat. Often they can be removed simply by pulling
upwards. Some are equipped with latches that need to be hooked with something thin – a regular small screwdriver will do, you
can try using a nail file, a strip of plastic (you can cut it from an old unnecessary plastic card).
•Remove all the screws you see. In many models of irons, the handle consists of two parts. The upper one can be held on one or
two screws and latches. There is a possible option without a screw at all – only on the latches. By removing this part, you gain
access to the other screws that hold the case.
The process of disassembling the iron does not require the use of force. If it “doesn’t go”, you need to carefully look at what and
where it is holding. And you should not take it apart right away to the end – it is not always necessary.
We check the easiest way
Often the iron does not work due to problems with the cord. During operation, it often bends, the insulation is damaged in places
of bending, sparks may even appear. Therefore, the first step in self-repairing an iron is to inspect and tune the cord. You will
need a multimeter to make a call.

Checking the power cord

Sometimes, to make sure that the problem is with the cord, you can plug the iron into the network. If everything is in order, the
indicator lamp lights up. Usually, this is a green LED. Therefore, it burns constantly or goes out periodically, and we will monitor
the condition of the cord. We twist and bend it, paying attention to the condition of the signal light. If it blinks, then the network
cord is really to blame. It is better to replace it, but if you wish, you can find the problem place (often it is visually easy to
determine) and correct the situation.

If these are problems with insulation, and the conductor itself is intact, the malfunction is eliminated using insulating tape. If the
wires are damaged, they are cut, connected in a new way with the help of soldering, the place of connection is isolated. This
repair is a temporary measure, as the problems will soon reappear – not far from the restored site. Therefore, it is better to replace
the cord.

Terminals and contacts

If there is no external damage to the cord, and it does not work, you will have to disassemble the iron.

At the first stage, there are usually no difficulties – there is one bolt at the back. Unscrew it, remove the cover.

A terminal block is hidden under the back cover, to which the wires from the thermostat and heating element fit, and the network
cord is connected to the other. The terminal block may look different. Some manufacturers, such as Bosch, have it hidden under a
plastic cover. The cover must be removed. How to approach it depends on the model. Sometimes it is quite simple to hook and
pull, sometimes you have to remove some parts. It is important to reach contacts.

Often, the reason that the iron does not heat up is hidden not in the heater, but in the fact that the contacts are clogged or
oxidized. Sometimes water gets on the contacts (capacity leaks), sometimes dust gets stuck there, sometimes the contact is
simply weak. If there is one of these problems, fix it. Perhaps the repair of the iron with your own hands will end there.

If you are going to remove the wires from the contacts, take a picture of how it was done. There will be fewer problems during
assembly. Human memory is an unreliable thing. The photo is much more reliable.

Checking the cord for the integrity of the wires

If the contacts are normal, clean, we ring the cord for the integrity of the wires. We take the tester/multimeter, put it in dialing
mode. With one probe we touch the pin of the cord, with the other we “sort” the wires on the terminal block. If the wire is intact,
one of the pairs should “ring” – you should hear a beep.

The cord of the iron is three-wire, two wires go to the pins of the cord, and the third one is green or yellow-green in color –
grounding. On the fork of the iron is a metal plate. You should hear the multimeter “squeak” when you touch it and the green
wire on the pad. If at least one wire “doesn’t ring”, change the cord.

Temperature regulator
Next, do-it-yourself repair of the iron – inspection of the temperature regulator. After detaching the plastic case from the sole of
the iron, we gain access to it.
How does the temperature controller work? It consists of three main parts: a rod, contact plates attached to it, and a bimetallic
plate. The bimetallic plate is heated by the sole of the iron. When the temperature rises, it heats up and bends. At a certain
temperature, it is bent so much that it opens the contacts, turning off the power. When the iron cools down, it returns to its
original state, the contacts close again, and the iron begins to heat up again.

First, you need to check whether the temperature regulator is working at all. Twist it from one extreme position to another. In one
of the positions, a characteristic click should be heard, which is produced by the closing contacts. It is through them that power is
supplied to the TEN iron. Having left the thermostat in this position, we will check the presence of electrical contact.

Two contacts depart from the temperature regulator (the wires that go to the heater are connected to them). We touch them with
the probes of the multimeter (dialing mode). If there is a sound from the multimeter, everything is normal. But, putting the
regulator in another extreme position, you should get a “break” – the contacts should open. In this case, this node works
normally.

A visual inspection will not hurt either – maybe they have burned, oxidized, weakened. If there is scale, dirt, rust, they can be
cleaned. For this, you can use a strip of sandpaper with a very fine grain or a nail file. Do not rub hard – do not cut the contacts
completely. When cleaning, try to bend the plates at least so as not to loosen the contact.

Sometimes the regulator turns hard. Grabbing it with pliers or pliers, rotate it back and forth until you achieve a smoother
stroke. After that, you need to take a simple pencil and rub the node with graphite. It does not sinter at high temperatures and has
good lubricating properties.

After all manipulations, check the presence of a contact in the “on” position of the thermostat. If everything is fine, you can try to
connect the iron and check its performance. Perhaps the repair of the iron with your own hands is over. If not, let’s move on.

Fuse
Thermal fuses are disposable and reusable. Disposable ones burn out when the critical temperature is exceeded. After that, the
iron does not turn on and you can restore its functionality only by replacing the disposable fuse.

The reusable one is made on the basis of the same bimetallic plate and works the same. This unit increases the reliability of the
iron – it prevents it from burning out if the thermostat suddenly does not work. Most often, the cause of a non-working iron is a
blown fuse. This is about 50% of cases of failure of this device. This happens if both the thermostat and the reusable fuse have
not turned off the iron.

You can get to the fuse only by completely removing the case. We find it, touch it with the probes of the multimeter on both
sides. If there are no sounds, he is to blame. We solder the faulty one, put a similar one. You can put a “bug” instead of it – solder
a piece of wire. But with another failure, the heating element will blow, not the fuse. Then the repair of the iron with your own
hands will end with the purchase of a new one – the price of the sole can be compared with the cost of a new iron.

Problems with the soleplate of the iron (heater + water tank)

In many models of irons, the heating element together with the water tank is sealed in a single body. Problems with one of these
parts lead to one thing – the purchase of a new iron. Replacing the sole is impractical, because this spare part costs a little less
than a new iron. Even if you decide to change the sole, there is no guarantee that you will find the one you need – the market
changes quickly, models are discontinued, spare parts for them are not produced. In general, if you have reached this stage in the
independent repair of the iron, most likely you will go to the store to buy new equipment.

There is only a small percentage of cases where the sole can be restored if the contacts have oxidized so much that the contact is
lost. We find these contacts, clean them well and crimp them. Next, we measure.
Set the multimeter to resistance measurement mode. In irons, heating elements usually have a resistance of 250 Ohms (for more
details, look in the passport), so the measurement limit is 1000 Ohms. If the resistance is somewhere within these limits,
everything is fine. If it shows “infinity” – the heating element has burned out. As already mentioned, replacement does not make
sense, it is more practical to buy a new iron.

The same way out — going for a new iron — can be in a situation with a working heating element. This happens if the water
tank is deformed. It can be torn or blown. In any case, the iron turns out to be inoperable, although the electrical part is
“normal”. This damage – problems with the water tank – occurs when there is a lot of scale. It is easier to prevent than to
eliminate. It is necessary to pour water with a small amount of salt into the iron. Yes, manufacturers write that you can pour water
from the tap. But in this case, the iron will expire its warranty period, then you will have to buy a new one.

What to do if there is no steam

Steam does not usually come out if the holes in the sole are clogged with salts. This will not happen if you use distilled water
(ideally), passed through filters or at least boiled.

Cleaning the iron from scale is easy.

1.Take a metal or heat-resistant container in which you can put the iron on the bottom.
2.Dilute citric acid (1 tablespoon per glass of water) or vinegar (1 glass per 1 liter) in water.
3.Set the steam regulator to maximum.
4.Place the iron in the container so that its rear part is slightly higher than the spout. You can use ordinary coins as a stand.
5.Pour the prepared solution. The liquid should cover the platform by about 1-1.5 cm.
6.Transfer the container with the iron to the stove, bring to a boil, turn off for 20-30 minutes, turn on again. Repeat such cycles 3-
4 times.
After this procedure, all holes and the water tank will be cleaned. However, until all the sediment comes out, traces may remain
on the linen for some time.

This is the end of the repair of the iron with your own hands. If it still does not work, carefully examine all the elements of the
system again. There are not so many of them – a cord and a block, a thermostat, fuses, a heating element.

An Electric Clothes Iron

Muhammad Ahmad Raza

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7 min read
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Jul 11, 2020
13

An electric iron is a household appliance used to remove creases or wrinkles of the clothes by the
combination of heat and pressure. After turning it on, a flat triangular soleplate is pressed on the
clothes to make them smooth and flat.
An electric iron is an application of heating effect of current. Current is taken from the power
supply which heats up the coil inside the iron, and this heat is then transferred to the soleplate due
to the conduction, and when it’s rubbed on clothes, small strings of clothes stretch to go flat.
An electric iron might not remove creases when it’s too cold, and cloth might burn when it’s too
hot, so there is a range of temperature in which an electric iron operates effectively. Domestic
irons generally range in operating temperature from between 250 °F (121 °C) to 360 °F (182 °C).
Types of Electric clothes irons
There are basically two types of an electric iron which are given below.
Automatic:
(1) It’s thermostat switch to regulate the heat to a predetermined value. When the predetermined
value of the temperature is reached, the thermostat switch automatically disconnects the
electricity supply and reconnects the same when iron starts cooling down.
2) It has pilot lamp to indicate. It will glow if the temperature is under predetermined value,
otherwise not glow.
3) Cost is high.
4) As the temperature is controlled automatically through thermostatic switch, the risk of burning
the cloth is minimized.
Non-Automatic:
1) It does not contain thermostat switch. Thus temperature is not regulated.
2) User has to switch ON or OFF the supply to iron according to the heat requirement.
3) There is no pilot lamp to point out the temperature condition whether it is within the limit or
not.
4) Cost is low.
5) Overheat might burn the cloth. Thus more care is needed.
Automatic electric irons are more common as compared to non-automatic due to their safety
benefits.
Components of an electric iron
An electric clothes irons have following common parts:
 1. Handle
The handle of an electric iron is made with plastic or wood. The reason is that these materials are
insulators, current doesn’t pass through them, so person who touch the handle while ironing
would be saved to get shocked. It’s attached to the cover plate with the aid of screws.

2. Sole plate
Soleplate, also called the hot plate, is the thick and flat triangular shaped surface made of
aluminum that forms the base over which the electric iron is built up. Aluminum allows corrosion
not to occur. It is polished, layered with a non-stick material making it stainless. It’s the part of an
electric iron which comes in contact with clothes while ironing.The base plate holds the pressure
plate and cover plate in position.

3. Cover Plate
The cover plate is made of thin sheet of iron. It is placed on top of the base plate and it covers all
the internal parts of the iron. The handle and connector are only attached to the cover plate.

4. Pressure Plate
This plate is generally called the top plate as it follows the shape of sole plate. The pressure plate
has some holes through which the studs form the base plate passes through. We should tighten the
nuts on the studs in such a way that the pressure plate and sole plate are pressed tight against each
other. In some iron, the pressure plate is heavy and made of cast iron while in some other cases, it
is a thin sheet of steel, about ¼ cm thick.

5. Pilot Lamp
The pilot lamp is housed on the cover plate of the electric iron.One end of the pilot lamp is
connected to supply, while the other end is connected to the heating element. A shunt resistance is
provided across the pilot lamp which assists in providing a voltage drop. The shunt is designed to
provide a voltage drop of 2-5 volts.

6. Heating Element
Most heating elements are made with a nickel-chromium wire, having both tensile strength and
high resistance to current flow. The resistance and voltage can be measured with a multimeter to
verify if the element is functioning properly. Heating elements are available in many sizes and
shapes.
In an electric iron, the heating element is present between the sole plate and pressure plate. It is
pressed hard between the two plates. The heating element consists of nichrome wire wound
around a sheet of mica. The two ends of the nichrome wire are connected to the contact strips.
The contact strips are connected to the terminals of the iron. There are two reasons for which
mica is chosen in the heating material. Mica is a very good insulating material. Besides that mica
can also withstand very high temperatures. The entire assembly of mica sheet, nichrome wire and
contact strips are riveted together resulting in a mechanically sound and robust construction.
There is an asbestos sheet, which separates and thermally insulates the top plate from the heating
element.

7. Thermostat
Thermostat is an important component of an electric iron that regulates its temperature. The word
thermostat is very common due to its usefulness in many home appliances that deals with
temperature control. The word thermostat is a combination of two words ‘Thermo’ (heat) and
‘statis’(status quo or constant).The main function of thermostat is to keep heat constant in a given
setting.
The main function of thermostat in an electric iron is to make sure that the iron doesn’t get too
hot if it is left unattended to for a period of time. The mechanism work as follows.
When electric current is passed through a coil in an electric iron, the coil becomes very hot.
Through conduction the heat is transferred to the flat base plate of the electric iron which is used
to iron our clothes .
However, the heating element continues to get hotter so far there is continuous drawing of
electricity from the power supply. This result into a lot of energy wastage, clothes ruin and in the
worst scenario, cause nasty accident. At this point, thermostat comes in because it is important
that the iron doesn’t heat up to temperature that is hazardous.

Bimetallic Strip
The thermostat in iron makes use of bimetallic strip. This bimetallic strip is made up of two
different types of metals (Brass and iron) with different coefficient of expansion bonded together.
Therefore, in the presence of heat, the bimetallic strip expands differently. The metallic strip is
connected to a contact spring through small pins.
The bimetallic strip remains in physical contact with the contact point at moderate temperature.
However, at a temperature of the iron above a certain limit, the strip tends to bend towards the
metal with lower coefficient of expansion. At this point, the strip stops to be physically connected
to the contact point and current stops flowing because of opening of the circuit.
(a) when the iron is at normal temperature (b) When the iron becomes too hot
As far as the circuit remains open, the temperature of the iron continues to reduce, then the strip
goes back to its original position and current begins to flow again. This cycle continues until the
power supply is being switched off from the main electricity source. This is the main reason why
your iron tends to power on and off on its own when connected to electric source.
 8. Capacitor
The thermostat helps in maintaining the temperature within limits. But frequent making and
breaking of circuit damages the contact points and it may also result in interference with radio
reception. To avoid this, a capacitor of certain range is connected across the two contact points.
Working
When a current is passed through the heating element which is placed between the sole plate and
pressure plate, the element gets heated up and transfers its heat to the sole plate through
conduction and in-turn the sole plate also gets heated up. Now to remove the wrinkles in
clothing, we should apply heat and pressure. Heat is formed due to the coil and when we press
the clothes with iron, the wrinkles are removed. For maintaining the optimum temperature, a
thermostat is used along with pilot lamp which serves as an indicator.
References:
https://www.brighthubengineering.com/consumer-appliances-electronics/64941-the-
 Steps to repair common iron problems
by SHIPRA MANGLA
FacebookTwitter
MAY 15, 2017 7 COMMENTS 25,361

Image Credits: Wikipedia

Iron is a small home appliance but one of the most useful ones. It is used to straighten our clothes and
make them fit for wearing every day. If you buy a good quality iron then the need for repairs may not
arise. However if you buy a slightly low quality one or your iron has become quite old, then you may
need to get it repaired since several issues can arise. But rather than approaching a professional you can
also repair the common iron problems on your own. The following are some of steps you can follow to
repair common iron problems.

1. Try to identify the problem

The first thing that you need to do is to identify what the problem in the iron really is. You can read the
manual and check whether you have done all the settings properly. Make sure you check the electric
cord, thermostat and if the steam is coming out properly or not. Also check the sole plate present at the
bottom of the iron.
2. Replace the thermostat and the power cord
The next step that you can follow in order to repair common iron problems is to replace the thermostat
and the power cord. To change the power cord, you will first need to purchase one suitable for the iron.
After that, use a screwdriver to remove the cover panel and then remove the cord inside it. Attach the
new one exactly as the old one was connected and then replace the thermostat if it is giving you a tough
time too. Screw the panel back and see if the iron is now working properly.

3. Clean the sole plate and remove marks to repair common iron
problems
Now you need to clean the sole plate because if something is stuck to it, it might not be ironing your
clothes properly. For this, use a dampen cloth touched with a little bit of salt to wipe the plate. You can
also make soapy water and clean the sole plate using a nylon cloth. Sometimes, starch too may get
stuck on the plate and to remove it, you can use a little bit of white vinegar. To remove burn marks on
the other hand, you can make use of oven cleaner and leave it on the sole plate for a few minutes before
washing with cold water.

Object 4

4. Clean the steam holes as well as the water container

Another thing you need to do to keep your iron working in perfect condition is to clean the steam holes
and the water container. Fill the steam hole reservoir with white vinegar to a quarter value and then
steam the iron to empty it. This will help remove all kinds of deposits from the steam holes. To clean
the container, you can fill it with water and then wash it properly.