Priest Draw Bouldering Guide
Priest Draw Bouldering Guide
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at Problems
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Step 4
Priest
a boul
Draw
dering
eGuide
BOULDERINGTOPO.COM | support.
By Jas
on Hen
rie & Z
ak Far
mer
BOULDERGuidebooks - eGuides - DVD’
INGTOPO s - Beta
.COM
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special assemblydon’t
directions for priest
pirate eguides draw guide
The Priest Draw eGuide is thick. We advise assembling the
eguide into two separate booklets. The first booklet should
be pages 4-23 (on the pdf) and the second booklet pages 24-40
(on the pdf). The second booklet’s introduction is an exact
copy of the main introduction (just incase you don’t have both
booklets together). Enjoy the eguide and thank you for
supporting us at boulderingtopo.com.
+ Grocery
e
City
Gr
Hospital an
d
of
Ca
ny Forest
Store on
San Francisco
Beaver
Leroux
Movies Late for the Train (coffee)
age
Bar Zone Alpine Pizza (Pizza)
89
N
to
P
Karma (Sushi)
Milton
El Charo (Mexican)
Wood
Oregenos (italian)
I-40 West to Las Angel
es
I-40 East to Albuquerque
I-17 to Phoenix
Priest Draw Bouldering is hazardous. Every time you fall, you hit the ground, risking an injury.
Please boulder prudently and use crash pads and spotters to reduce your chances of
injury.
The inclusion of a boulder problem in this eGuide does not mean it is safe. You can
die or be seriously injured attempting any boulder problem. Use your own
judgement to assess the risks before attempting any of the boulder problems in this
eGuide.
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Table of Contents
Table of Contents
Introduction 5
Driving Directions Map 6
Overview Map of Areas 7
Number of Problems by Grade Chart 8
Triangle Boulder/Plaque Wall 9
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 9
Overview Map 10
Pottery/White/Killer/The Egg Walls 14
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 14
Overview Map 15
Black Roof/Don’t Peace Me Out, Yo, Jimmy Simmons 20
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 20
Overview Map 21
Floorpie Roof/Big Ed’s Flying Saucer/Acid Test Roof 23
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 23
Overview Map 24
Bat Roof 27
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 27
Overview Map 28
Anorexic Roof/Monster Roof 30
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 30
Overview Map 31
Mars Roof 35
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 35
Overview Map 36
The Island 39
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 39
Overview Map 40
Detailed Overview Map 41
She Lives Roof 45
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 45
Overview Map 46
Bad Ass Roof/Gomez Traverse 48
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 48
Overview Map 49
Whale Shark Arete/Schlotzsky Roof 53
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 53
Overview Map 54
Puzzle Box 58
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 58
Overview Map 59
Caleb Vesely on fun jugs at The Island Caleb Vesely on Anorexic Nerve Dance V6
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Introduction Driving Map
Approach directions will be located in
Introduction the introduction for each area. A useful
Milton
I guarantee you will enjoy the world Historic
class limestone roof climbing, mountain Downtown
Ethics W Forest
setting and great summer temperatures.
Meadows
The ethics at the Priest Draw are simple.
-Pick up your trash. City of Flagstaff I-40 Ea
st
Getting There -Don’t deface the rock. This
I-40 West
Driving directions start at the includes chipping holds.
intersection of I-40 and I-17. Drive -Don’t hack up plants and trees.
north on Milton Avenue. At the first -Be courteous to other users.
intersection north of I-17, you will turn -Stay on trails when possible. Cattle
left on W. forest Meadows. At the first guard
intersection on W. Forest Meadows, you Catt
will turn left on S. Beulah Blvd. Follow Season le g
u ard
h Blvd.
S. Beulah Blvd. under I-40 until an Spring, Summer and Fall are all great.
intersection with Lake Mary Rd. is Summer temperatures can be in the 80’s Lake
Mary
S. Beula
reached. Turn left on Lake Mary Rd. and reach into the 90’s, but generally the Rd . (Hw
average is in the 70’s. Winter can be hit y. #48
(Hwy. #487). Follow Lake Mary Rd. 7)
and miss. The weather isn’t usually too
(Co
until you pass over two cattle guards.
bad, snow really won’t stop a session.
Cri ino C
Turn right onto Crimson Rd. right after
con
The real problem is that the ground can
ms oun
you pass over the second cattle guard
hoenix
on
(about 7 miles on Lake Mary Rd. to turn get extremely muddy. If the ground is
Rd Rd
off). Follow Crimson Rd. (Coconino wet and muddy in the winter, climb in
Dir
.
P
t
the morning when the ground is still
y
County Rd. #132), which turns to dirt,
I-17 to
t ro
for 3 miles. At the 3 mile point you will frozen.
. #1
ad
be at the end of a collection of homes
32)
with cool limestone roofs in their back Amenities and Camping
yards. Turn right onto a smaller dirt Everything you need is in Flagstaff and Bouldering
road (if you drive up a short hill after the free camping is allowed on a side road
homes, you have gone to far). Follow .1 miles before the main parking area. oad
rt r
the smaller dirt road for .2 miles to Di
parking for The Triangle Boulder and .4
miles to end of road and main parking
Map not to scale
area. Drive time: 20 minutes.
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Overview Map of Areas Number of Problems by Grade
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Triangle Boulder/Plaque Wall Introduction Triangle Boulder/Plaque Wall Overview Map
Getting There
Triangle Approach directions start at the first
Overview map of Triangle Boulder/Plaque Wall
Boulder/ parking area (not the main parking area,
consult map on page 7 to find correct
parking area). At the right side of the
Plaque Wall road is a trail that leads less than a
hundred yards to bouldering. Triangle Boulder Plaque Wall
Approach time: 15 seconds.
This area is the first area encountered at
the Priest Draw and offers some of the Some nice
best vertical problems (a nice change
after all of the roof climbing) and V0-V3
excellent warm ups. problems
Some short
problems V0 Traverse
3 3
2 2 1
V0 V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10
View from the Tringle Boulder parking area
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Triangle Boulder/Plaque Wall
Plaque Wall
Triangle Boulder
5 6
7
1 2 3 4
Pocket
is off 8 9 10 11
“Savage” aneliminant
ungraded “Pimp Pasellex Super Star”
Start with right hand crimper and
left hand crimper w/thumb in
Many V0-VHard pocket. Grab two pinches and go
variations on this face to top. Ungraded eliminant.
7. Flexi Flake V4.................................q
Start low with a left hand side pull crimp and
right hand on whatever. Climb straight up
1. V4...................................................q through thin holds to better holds and top.
Climb the tall slab. Arete is off.
8. V2...................................................q
2. V0...................................................q
Climb the arete.
Sit start with pockets and climb up and right
to top out. photo
3. V0...................................................q 9. Man Tits V4....................................q
Climb the arete to a right trending crack with Sit start with pockets and climb up and left
jugs. Finish on crack. to top out.
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Triangle Boulder Other Areas Pottery/White/Killer/The Egg Walls Introduction
Getting There
Other areas near the Triangle Boulder Pottery/ Approach directions start at main
The M.O.A.B (Mother of All Boulder Problems) Roof V4 deserves a star. The problem is
located about 100 yards further out the draw from the Triangle Boulder and on the right side of
the dirt road. The roof is at the same point in the draw where the camping area road splits off.
White/ parking area. Walk main trail out into
the Priest Draw. The Pottery, White,
Killer and The Egg walls are right near
The roof is hard to see on the hillside so look carefully for a trail leading up to it. The problem
climbs from left to right along a crack/fin feature. There are other o.k. problems in this roof. Killer/ the parking lot. Approach time: 30
seconds.
A small wall offering a couple nice problems is about another 100 yards past the M.O.A.B.
Roof. The Egg
Walls
This area is the first encountered at the
Overview map of other areas near Triangle Boulder main parking lot and offers a wide
variety of problems from vertical and
technical to steep and powerful.
Small wall
with a couple
problems M.O.A.B.
Roof
Pottery/White/Killer/ Triangle Boulder/
Plaque Wall
The Egg Walls
Number of problems by grade
Trail
Trail
First
parking
for Pottery/White/Killer/The Egg Walls
area
8
Dirt road
4
3 3 3
2 1 1 1 2 1
Dirt road
Main Free
parking camping
area area
V0 V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Pottery/White/Killer/The Egg Walls Overview Map Pottery Wall/White Wall
Pottery Wall
Overview map of Pottery/White/Killer/The Egg Walls
2. V8...................................................q 8. V2...................................................q
Pottery Wall Start low on right hand pocket undercling Start on low line of pockets. Climb up crack
and left hand on sloping dish. Climb straight feature.
up.
9. V4...................................................q
3. The All American Anti Hero V12......q Start on low side pull pockets and climb past
Start in back of roof on two bad undercling a sloper and edges to chunky rock.
pockets. Make moves to right hand in
View from the main parking area sloping two finger pocket. Climb left and
up.
10. Dishwasher V3.............................q
Start on side pull flake and climb straight up.
Local Variation: No hands kneebar on
4. The Real American Hero V12..........q starting flake. Clap hands behind back.
Start in back of roof on two bad undercling
pockets. Make moves to left hand in sloping
two finger pocket. Climb right and up.
11. Taylor is Gone V10........................q
Start on side pull flake. Climb right to small
edges and make a hard move to better holds.
5. Carne Cabeza V9............................q
Start on undercling sloping pockets. Climb
slightly left to top out.
12. V4.................................................q
Start low with right hand undercling and left
hand edge and make a long move to better
6. Pelo Del Perro V9...........................q holds. A one move wonder.
Start on undercling sloping pockets. Climb
slightly right to top out.
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Killer Wall
Killer Wall
2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
2. V1...................................................q
Start on lowest part of side pull flake. Climb
9. V0...................................................q
Start low and climb up past good holds.
photo
it.
10. V2.................................................q
3. V1...................................................q Start low and climb up and right past two
Low start on row of pockets. Climb past small dishes.
sloper to good holds.
11. V4.................................................q
4. V2...................................................q Start low on pockets and climb past sloper
Low start on row of pockets and climb over and two small edges to a long move and
bulge. Trend left to jugs to top out. better holds.
.
5. Bitch Boy V4...................................q 12. V0.................................................q
Start low on pockets and climb straight up Start low on pockets and climb past large
past o.k. holds and crux sharp side pull. right hand pinch.
7. V2...................................................q
Low start on small holds. Fire for big side Zak Farmer on The Whip and Cross V5 at the Killer Wall
pull pocket and then cool right hand pinch.
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
The Egg Black Roof/Don’t Peace Me Out, Yo, J. Simmons Introduction
Getting There
The Egg
Black Roof/Don’t Approach directions start at main
Peace Me Out, parking area. Walk main trail out the
Priest Draw. Follow this trail until you
see a roof on the right with a lot of black
4 5
Yo, Jimmy soot in it from old camp fires (do not
take any trails to the left/stay on main
1 2 3
Simmons trail). This is the Black Roof. Don’t
Peace Me Out, Yo, Jimmy Simmons is
just before it. Approach time: 3
minutes.
1. The Yoker V4..................................q This area is small with a couple of roof
Start in back of roof and climb straight out to climbing gems. Worth a visit on the
difficult face moves. walk by.
4. Mota-vation V12..............................q
Start in back of bulge and climb up and left
to seam.
5. V6...................................................q
Number of problems by grade
Start as far left as possible on right side of
wall and traverse right around corner to
for Black Roof/
finish.
Don’t Peace Me Out, Yo, Jimmy Simmons
1 2 1
1 1
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Black Roof/Don’t Peace Me Out, Yo, J. Simmons Overview Map Black Roof/Don’t Peace Me Out, Yo, Jimmy Simmons
1 3 4 6 5
Black Roof 2
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Floorpie Roof/Big Ed’s/Acid Test Roof Introduction Floorpie Roof/Big Ed’s/Acid Test Overview Map
Getting There
Floorpie Roof/ Approach directions start at main Overview map of Floorpie Roof/Big Ed’s Flying Saucer/Acid Test Roof
Big Ed’s Flying parking area. Walk main trail out the
Priest Draw. You will pass three small
Saucer/Acid
trails that lead left to an area across the
draw named The Island. The Floorpie Acid Test Big Ed’s Floorpie
Roof and Big Ed’s Flying Saucer are
Trail
Bear hug coffin feature
ail
Tr
Trail
for Floorpie Roof/ The Island
1 1 1 1 1 D raw
rd
owa
H
V0 V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Floorpie Roof/Big Ed’s Flying Saucer/Acid Test Roof
8
5 6 7
1
2
3 4 Big Ed’s Flying Saucer
Floorpie Roof
7. Pasty Gansta V10...........................q
Start on farthest back pockets. Climb
1. Floorpie V7.....................................q straight out. Foot ledge in back is on.
Start on a low slot shaped pocket with both
hands. Climb straight out roof. Variation: 8. V3...................................................q
Start all the way in the back of the roof on
Start in roof on edge feature and make long
jugs at V9.
move to lip.
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Bat Roof Introduction Bat Roof Overview Map
Getting There
Bat Roof Approach directions start at main Overview map of Bat Roof
This area is a great introduction to parking area. Walk main trail out the
bouldering in roofs at the Priest Draw. Priest Draw. You will pass three small
If you like horizontal climbing, this is a trails that lead left to an area across the
great starting point for any fine day. draw named The Island. Keep traveling
along the main trail for a few more Bat Roof
minutes and you will approach a stand
of 9 tall pine trees (some only count 8
pine trees) to the left of the trail but still
in the middle of the draw. The Bat Roof
is to the right of these trees on the Anorexic
hillside. Approach time: 8-10 Roof
minutes.
Floorpie
Parking
Roof
area
Priest Draw Trail
The
Island
Ho
2 2 2 1 1 1
V0 V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Bat Roof Anorexic Roof/Monster Roof Introduction
Getting There
Left side of Bat Roof Anorexic Roof/ Approach directions start at main
Monster Roof parking area. Walk main trail out the
Priest Draw. You will pass three small
trails that lead left to an area across the
1 2 2 3 4 This area is one of the most popular at draw named The Island. Keep traveling
the Priest Draw, offering classic tricky along the main trail for about 7 minutes,
Center of Bat Roof
moves on cool features. passing many more short walls and
boulders, until you pass between a
couple small boulders. Just after these
1. Bat Roof V3.....................................q 7. The Underachiever V8...................q
boulders, and on the right, is the
Start on jutting jug feature in back of roof. Start in back of roof on jugs and climb
Anorexic Roof (sticks out of the hillside
Climb left in roof. Top out on left side of the straight out belly feature to handle bar at lip. like a thumb). In less than 100 more
roof. Back wall is off after the starting hold. yards you will locate the Monster Roof
on the right side of the trail. Approach
8. V7...................................................q
2. V1...................................................q Start in back of roof on jugs and climb up
time: 12-15 minutes.
Start in back of roof on jugs. Climb straight and right to top out.
out roof to top out.
9. V6..................................................q
3. V2..................................................q Start on hold near back of roof and climb
Start in back of roof and climb out crack straight out.
feature.
4. V3..................................................q .
Start in back of roof and climb just right of
crack feature.
Number of problems by grade
5. V1...................................................q for Anorexic Roof/Monster Roof
Start in back of roof on jugs and climb out
and left along rail jugs to fin feature and top
out.
Right side of Bat Roof
4 4
6. V2...................................................q 2 2 2 2
Start in back of roof on jugs and climb out 1 1
and left along rail jugs and then back out
right past two finger pocket to top out. V0 V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10
5 7 9
6 8
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Anorexic Roof/Monster Roof Overview Map Anorexic Roof
Anorexic Roof
Anorexic
Roof 1 2 3 4
Bat Roof
Monster Roof
1 3
2 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 13
12
2. V1...................................................q 9. V4...................................................q
Sit start on jugs and climb up past long move Sit start in back of roof and climb straight
to lip. out roof past small but deep pockets.
7. Disco Polly V6...............................q Project: “Go West” traverses the entire wall.
Sit start in back of roof and climb straight out Feet can’t use skirt and hands can’t use lip.
past big sloping feature to a long move and
Jason Henrie on Carnivore V8 the top.
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Mars Roof Introduction Mars Roof Overview Map
Getting There
Mars Roof Approach directions start at main Overview map of Mars Roof
This area houses the most proud roof parking area. Walk main trail out the
(the Mars Roof) with some of the most Priest Draw. You will pass three small
difficult problems at the Priest Draw. trails that lead left to an area across the
Come here to get worked. draw named The Island. Keep traveling
along the main trail for about 12-15
Mars Roof
minutes, passing many more short walls
and boulders and good roofs (Anorexic Anorexic
Roof being one of the more prominent),
until you pass a couple of tall boulders.
Roof A couple problems
One of these boulders is about 18 feet the best being the roof problem
H.B. or Master Cylinder
tall with some enticing juggy slab Some
Some nice V0 to V4 problems
(ungraded)
problems on it. Less than 100 yards problems on two big boulders
after this big boulder and on the right is
the Mars Roof. Approach time: 18-
20 minutes. Anorexic Roof
Priest DrawTrail
Mars Roof
The Island
Number of problems by grade
for Mars Roof
4
1 1 1
V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Mars Roof
Mars Roof
photo 1 2 6
4
5 7
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Howard Draw
a bouldering eGuide
Howard Draw Bouldering is hazardous. Every time you fall, you hit the ground, risking an injury.
Please boulder prudently and use crash pads and spotters to reduce your chances of
injury.
The inclusion of a boulder problem in this eGuide does not mean it is safe. You can
die or be seriously injured attempting any boulder problem. Use your own
judgement to assess the risks before attempting any of the boulder problems in this
eGuide.
Table of Contents
Introduction 5
Driving Directions Map 6
Overview Map of Areas 7
Number of Problems by Grade Chart 8
Triangle Boulder/Plaque Wall 9
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 9
Overview Map 10
Pottery/White/Killer/The Egg Walls 14
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 14
Overview Map 15
Black Roof/Don’t Peace Me Out, Yo, Jimmy Simmons 20
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 20
Overview Map 21
Floorpie Roof/Big Ed’s Flying Saucer/Acid Test Roof 23
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 23
Overview Map 24
Bat Roof 27
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 27
Overview Map 28
Anorexic Roof/Monster Roof 30
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 30
Overview Map 31
Mars Roof 35
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 35
Overview Map 36
The Island 39
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 39
Overview Map 40
Detailed Overview Map 41
She Lives Roof 45
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 45
Overview Map 46
Bad Ass Roof/Gomez Traverse 48
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 48
Overview Map 49
Whale Shark Arete/Schlotzsky Roof 53
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 53
Overview Map 54
Puzzle Box 58
Introduction/Number of Problems by Grade Chart 58
Overview Map 59
Caleb Vesely on fun jugs at The Island Caleb Vesely on Anorexic Nerve Dance V6
Milton
I guarantee you will enjoy the world Historic
class limestone roof climbing, mountain Downtown
Ethics W Forest
setting and great summer temperatures.
Meadows
The ethics at the Priest Draw are simple.
-Pick up your trash. City of Flagstaff I-40 Ea
st
Getting There -Don’t deface the rock. This
I-40 West
Driving directions start at the includes chipping holds.
intersection of I-40 and I-17. Drive -Don’t hack up plants and trees.
north on Milton Avenue. At the first -Be courteous to other users.
intersection north of I-17, you will turn -Stay on trails when possible. Cattle
left on W. forest Meadows. At the first guard
intersection on W. Forest Meadows, you Catt
will turn left on S. Beulah Blvd. Follow Season le g
u ard
h Blvd.
S. Beulah Blvd. under I-40 until an Spring, Summer and Fall are all great.
intersection with Lake Mary Rd. is Summer temperatures can be in the 80’s Lake
Mary
S. Beula
reached. Turn left on Lake Mary Rd. and reach into the 90’s, but generally the Rd . (Hw
average is in the 70’s. Winter can be hit y. #48
(Hwy. #487). Follow Lake Mary Rd. 7)
and miss. The weather isn’t usually too
(Co
until you pass over two cattle guards.
bad, snow really won’t stop a session.
Cri ino C
Turn right onto Crimson Rd. right after
con
The real problem is that the ground can
ms oun
you pass over the second cattle guard
hoenix
on
(about 7 miles on Lake Mary Rd. to turn get extremely muddy. If the ground is
Rd Rd
off). Follow Crimson Rd. (Coconino wet and muddy in the winter, climb in
Dir
.
P
t
the morning when the ground is still
y
County Rd. #132), which turns to dirt,
I-17 to
t ro
for 3 miles. At the 3 mile point you will frozen.
. #1
ad
be at the end of a collection of homes
32)
with cool limestone roofs in their back Amenities and Camping
yards. Turn right onto a smaller dirt Everything you need is in Flagstaff and Bouldering
road (if you drive up a short hill after the free camping is allowed on a side road
homes, you have gone to far). Follow .1 miles before the main parking area. oad
rt r
the smaller dirt road for .2 miles to Di
parking for The Triangle Boulder and .4
miles to end of road and main parking
Map not to scale
area. Drive time: 20 minutes.
Parking
Meadow area
Trail
ail
Tr
Trail
ail
Tr
w
D ra
d
ar
H ow
4
1
3
2
3
1 1 1 The Island
V0 V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10
(Detailed overview map
on next page)
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
The Island Area Detailed Overview Map Wife Beater Boulder at The Island
5. V2...................................................q
Detailed overview map of The Island Start on dishes and climb straight up.
ail
climb up and right to top out.
Tr
near nose of boulder.
1. V1...................................................q
8. Wife Beater V7................................q
Trail
Problems 1-5
7 8 9
10
Triangle shaped boulder “8th Amendment” 11 12
Starts on problem 9,
6 traverses right and
around corner.
(no grade)
The Island
View from Black Roof
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
F-Tard Boulder at The Island
F-Tard Boulder
16
15
14
13
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
She Lives Roof She Lives Roof
Getting There
She Lives Approach directions start at main Overview map of She Lives Roof
Roof parking are. Walk main trail out the
Priest Draw for a couple minutes until
you get to two black roofs. Follow any
This is a small area that looks like it number of trails left to the Island. Walk
should have more problems. There are a to the back of The Island and pick up a
il
Tra
couple classic problems worth climbing trail that leads out another draw called
raw
ail
and some stuff on some walls to the left Howard Draw. Follow this trail for a
ail
st D
Tr
Tr
that don’t see much action but can be minute or two. You will see a big fallen
aw
rie
aw
Dr
fun.
P
dead pine tree (looks like it was hit by
Dr
To
st
st
rie
lightning) on the right of the trail. A 100
rie
P
P
To
yards or so past this tree is a very faint
To
trail leading up into a shallow ravine on
the hill side and the roof. The roof is The Island
almost impossible to see from the
Howard Draw trail.
Approach time: 6 minutes Big fallen dead
pine tree near
hillside
f
Roo
d Ass
B a
rail
rawT
D
ard
Number of problems by grade H ow
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
She Lives Roof Bad Ass Roof/Gomez Traverse Introduction
Howard Draw. Follow this trail for a
She Lives Roof
Bad Ass Roof/ couple minutes until it bends right and
you reach a meadow with some blank
3. V3...................................................q
Number of problems by grade
Start as low as possible and climb straight
out roof.
for Bad Ass Roof/Gomez Traverse
2 3
1 1 2 1
1
V0 V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Bad Ass Roof/Gomez Traverse Overview Map Bad Ass Roof
A couple good
roof cracks
d
Leroy V6 and
n
Isla
Blank roof George V3
The
3
Decent warm ups 1 2 4 5
Meadow
l
Trai
Trail turns faint
1. V2...................................................q
Some good problems
up to V4 Bad Ass Sit start in back of roof. Traverse left to long
5. Block Head V8...............................q
Sit start in back of roof on the right side.
Some
bouldering Roof move to exit left side of roof. Climb straight out past long reach and
pockets and then exit out right side of roof
2. Bad Ass V5.....................................q past long reach at lip.
Long wall good for traversing on jugs
with a few good up problems. Traverse of the
Sit start in back of roof. Climb straight out
roof. A crazy link up in this roof has been made
whole wall is called John Holmes Traverse (unrated) called Bad Ass, Stinky, Mother F-R. Climb
ross
n ds. Croad A couple nice problems up Stinky Ass, down climb Bad Ass and then
nt t
e
rail to old hark
S 3. Big Block V7...................................q climb out Big Block. Yikes.
Fai ek bed hale tzsky
cre t to W Schlo Sit start in back of roof. Climb half way out
g e nd
to te a roof and then climb right. Exit out right side
Are of of roof past long reach at lip.
Ro
.
4. Stinky Ass V7..................................q
Sit start in back of roof on the right side.
Climb straight out past long reach and two
finger pockets.
Gomez Traverse
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Gomez Traverse
1 1
2 3
2. V5...................................................q
photo Start on lowest holds possible and climb
straight out roof.
4 5 6
3. V6...................................................q
Start on lowest holds possible and climb up
and right.
4. V0...................................................q
Grab some jugs just right of an aspen tree
and climb straight up on more jugs.
5. V3...................................................q
Sit start under overhanging bulge. Climb
straight up it without exiting left or right.
6. V3...................................................q
Sit start under overhanging bulge. Make a
few moves up it and then traverse right on
pockets. Top out on right side of wall.
.
Caleb Vesely on Bad Ass V5
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Whale Shark Arete/Schlotzsky Roof Introduction Whale Shark Arete/Schlotzsky Roof Overview Map
you reach a meadow with some blank
Whale Shark roofs some distance on the right.
Continue on the trail through the Overview map of Shark Arete/Schlotzsky Roof
Arete/ meadow. When the trail bends left
again at the end of the meadow, the trail
will split. Take the left split and follow f
o
Ro
Schlotzsky Roof it until it is easy to cross the dry creek
Ba
d Ass
oad
the Schlotzsky Roof, cross to your right
dr
across the meadow with no trail and if
Ol
Approach directions start at main
you snoop around you will find The
parking area. Walk main trail out the
Schlotzsky Roof. Approach time: 15
Priest Draw for a couple minutes until
minutes
you get to two black roofs. Follow any
number of trails left to the Island. Walk
to the back of The Island and pick up a
trail that leads out another draw called Meadow
Meadow
ad
ro
for Whale Shark Arete/Schlotzsky Roof
d
Ol
3
1 1 2 2 2 2 1
V0 V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10
Aspens
Whale Shark Arete
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Schlotski Roof
4
5
5 4 3
2 1 Middle of Schlotzsky Roof
7. V4..................................................q
Sit start under roof and climb straight out.
1. V7....................................................q
Sit start on side pull under roof and move left
and up.
2. V6...................................................q
photo Start low on small pockets and climb straight
up.
3. V6...................................................q 6 7
Start low on left hand pocket and right hand
side pull. Make a few hard moves to better
holds and up. Left side of Schlotzsky Roof
4. V4...................................................q
Start as low as possible and climb straight up
to long blank section with a long reach.
5. V5...................................................q
Start low on bad holds and climb straight up
to good holds. Climb left along rail of good
pockets to top out.
6. V1....................................................q
Sit start under roof and climb left and up
through good holds.
Suzanne Hinckley on Whale Shark Arete V1
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Whale Shark Arete Puzzle Box Introduction
Getting There
Whale Shark Arete Boulder
Puzzle Box Approach directions start at main
This area is has some great roof parking area which is located .4 miles
problems in the V5 to V10 range (with out small dirt road that splits off of
many, many linkups not listed). Watch Coconino County Rd. #132. Step over
out for some sloped landings. the wood fence on the left side of the
1 2 3 6 7 parking lot. Walk along the right side of
4 5
the metal fence protecting the aspen
grove. You will be following faint trails
Wall behind Whale Shark Arete Boulder
that leads into a side draw (don’t walk
out the old dirt road and away from the
metal fence). After a minute or two, the
1. V5...................................................q 7. V0.................................................q Puzzle Box will be up a on the hill on
Stand start on left hand side pull edge and Start on lowest holds possible and climb up the right side of the draw. Approach
right hand on tiny knob and fire for the lip. and right. time: 2 minutes.
2. V3...................................................q A highball problem tops out the wall behind
Start as low as you can on the left the Whale Shark Boulder. It is called Dain’s
overhanging arete. Climb it. Big Ghey H.B. and is graded about V4.
4. V2...................................................q .
6. V1....................................................q 2 1 1 1 1 2
Start on lowest holds possible and climb
straight up.
V0 V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Puzzle Box Overview Map Puzzle Box
5 6
View from main parking area 4
Dirt Road
to Triangle
Boulder
4
Main parking 3 5
area 6
2
Trail to 1
Puzzle Box
rail
nt t
Fence
Fai
Old road
1. Knob Job V8...................................q 4. Huffleuppagus V10.......................q
Start on good holds on back wall. Climb Start on good holds on back wall. Climb left
Faint trail
past triangle shaped pinch to better holds. along sloping pockets. As holds get better
keep climbing left to large sloping pocket
2. The Missionary Position V6...........q with thump catch to top out.
Start low with two bad side pulls. Slap and
Aspen grove
Fence
heal hook your way up the side pulls to top. 5. Cosmic Tricycle V10.....................q
Variation: Start on lower undercling and Start on good holds on back wall. Climb left
move into starting side pulls at V7. along sloping pockets. As holds get better
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Priest Draw Priest Draw
Puzzle Box Overview Map Puzzle Box
7 8
6
7. V9...................................................q
Start on good holds on back wall. Climb left
past two finger pocket to rad pinch with
thumb hole and then to top of wall.
.
8. V5...................................................q
Start on good holds on back wall. Climb
straight out past cool sloping pocket features.
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