Activated Carbon For Cosmetics Applications

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Chapter 10

Activated Carbon for Cosmetics


Applications

Ismail Budiman, Rudianto Amirta, Yuliansyah,


Bernadeta Ayu Widyaningrum, and Widya Fatriasari

Abstract Biomass, as a renewable and abundant resource, holds significant poten-


tial for improving human lives across various sectors. One promising avenue is the
utilization of biomass for the production of activated carbon, which has multi-­
benefit resources and demonstrated exceptional properties for numerous applica-
tions. This review focuses on exploring the potential biomass-derived activated
carbon, especially in the context of cosmetic applications, and also be a significant
reference for researchers to determine the future technological and application
needs of activated carbon-based cosmetics. Activated carbon derived from biomass
processes has several advantageous characteristics, including its high porosity, large
surface area, and unique chemical composition. These attributes make it an excel-
lent material for various applications, especially for cosmetics formulations and
treatments, owing to its adsorption, purification, and detoxification capabilities. In
cosmetic applications, activated carbon from biomass serves as a versatile ingredi-
ent with multiple benefits. Its adsorption properties allow it to effectively remove
impurities, pollutants, and excess sebum from the skin, resulting in a deep cleansing
and detoxifying effect. Additionally, activated carbon can aid in controlling oiliness,

I. Budiman (*) · W. Fatriasari


Research Center for Biomass and Bioproduct, National Research and Innovation Agency
(BRIN), Kawasan Sains Teknologi Dr. (H.C.) Ir. H. Soekarno,
Cibinong Bogor, Jawa Barat, Indonesia
Research Collaboration Center of Biomass-Based Nano Cosmetic, in Collaboration with
National Research and Innovation Agency (BRIN), Samarinda, East Kalimantan, Indonesia
e-mail: [email protected]
R. Amirta · Yuliansyah
Research Collaboration Center of Biomass-Based Nano Cosmetic, in Collaboration with
National Research and Innovation Agency (BRIN), Samarinda, East Kalimantan, Indonesia
Faculty of Forestry, Mulawarman University, Samarinda, Indonesia
B. A. Widyaningrum
Research Center for Biomass and Bioproduct, National Research and Innovation Agency
(BRIN), Kawasan Sains Teknologi Dr. (H.C.) Ir. H. Soekarno,
Cibinong Bogor, Jawa Barat, Indonesia

© The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Singapore Pte 217
Ltd. 2024
E. T. Arung et al. (eds.), Biomass-based Cosmetics,
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-97-1908-2_10
218 I. Budiman et al.

reducing the appearance of pores and improving overall skin texture. The potential
applications of biomass-derived activated carbon extend beyond skin care. It can be
utilized in hair care products to remove pollutants, excess oils, and chemical r­ esidues
from the scalp, promoting a healthy environment for hair growth. Moreover, acti-
vated carbon has the ability to neutralize odors, making it suitable for use in deodor-
ants and oral care products. In conclusion, biomass-derived activated carbon holds
immense promise for enhancing human lives through its application in cosmetics.
Its unique properties offer opportunities for deep cleansing, detoxification, and eco-
friendly formulations. Embracing this sustainable and renewable resource can revo-
lutionize the cosmetics industry, providing consumers with innovative, effective,
and environmentally conscious beauty products.

Keywords Biomass · Enhancing human lives · Activated carbon · Cosmetics


applications · Future technology

10.1 Introduction

Biomass refers to any organic matter derived from living or recently living organ-
isms, including plants, animals, and microorganisms, including solid, liquid, and
gaseous products recovered from the decomposition of non-fossilized and biode-
gradable organic materials (Basu 2018). It can be used as a renewable energy
source and feedstock for various applications. There are several types of biomass,
including agricultural biomass, forest biomass, algal biomass, and municipal solid
waste (Gabisa and Gheewala 2018). Agricultural biomass includes crop residues
(such as empty fruit bunches and shells of palm oil, corn stalks, wheat straw, and
rice husks), energy crops (like switchgrass and miscanthus), and animal manure.
Agricultural biomass can be used for bioenergy production, bio-based products,
and materials, biorefinery, biochar for soil amendment, paper, and board (Deshmukh
et al. 2023). Forest or tree biomass consists of wood and woody residues from log-
ging operations, forest thinning, and tree trimmings, which can be used for heat
and power generation, biofuels, textiles, foods, health-promoting agents, and cos-
metics (Backlund et al. 2014). Algal biomass refers to biomass derived from micro-
algae, which are photosynthetic microorganisms. Algae can be cultivated and
harvested for various applications, including wastewater treatment, biofuels, food
additives, nutritional supplements, and cosmetics (Javed et al. 2022). Municipal
Solid Waste (MSW) biomass consists of organic waste from households, busi-
nesses, and industries. It includes food waste, yard waste, paper, and other organic
materials. MSW biomass can be converted into bio-based chemicals, polymers,
and biofuels through anaerobic digestion or used for waste-to-energy processes
(Ladakis et al. 2022).
Several ways are carried out to obtain other and more advanced functions from
biomass. One of them is by converting biomass into activated carbon or carbon-
rich materials. Biomass with the potential to produce rich-carbon materials
10 Activated Carbon for Cosmetics Applications 219

typically refers to biomass rich in carbon content. It can be used as a precursor for
producing carbon-based materials such as activated carbon, biochar, and carbon
nanomaterials.
The potential of carbon-rich materials and activated carbon from biomass for
various applications is significant, such as for bioenergy/biofuel production
(Demirbas 2005; Saidur et al. 2011; Sadrul Islam and Ahiduzzaman 2012; Glushkov
et al. 2021; Ahanchi et al. 2022; Heberlein et al. 2022; Ni et al. 2022; Yana et al.
2022; Rehman et al. 2023), bio-based products and materials (Hermawan et al.
2022; Deshmukh et al. 2023), agriculture and fertilizer applications (Panwar et al.
2019; Chaturvedi et al. 2023), environmental remediation and pollutant adsorption
(Budiman et al. 2019; Freitas et al. 2019; Hara et al. 2020; Ahuja et al. 2022;
Dehmani et al. 2022; Golia et al. 2022; Ahmad et al. 2023), cosmetics (Hammani
et al. 2019; Pattananandecha et al. 2019; Dubey et al. 2022), pharmaceutical appli-
cation (Malesic-Eleftheriadou et al. 2022; Brito et al. 2023; Fatih Dilekoglu and
Yapici 2023; Jiang et al. 2023; Niu et al. 2023), water treatment (Xiao et al. 2020;
Khandaker et al. 2021; Krishnan et al. 2021; Huang et al. 2022; Menya et al. 2023),
and energy storage (Kumar 2022; Sevilla and Mokaya 2014; Qian et al. 2020; Chen
et al. 2022; Elanthamilan et al. 2022; Rashidi et al. 2022; Selvaraj et al. 2022; Yang
et al. 2022; Md Zaini et al. 2023). Based on its advantages, activated carbon offers
numerous advantages in various applications, particularly in cosmetics. Its unique
properties, including high adsorption capacity, porous structure, and versatility,
make it an ideal ingredient for skincare and beauty products. Activated carbon
effectively attracts and absorbs impurities, toxins, excess oils, and pollutants from
the skin, providing deep cleansing and detoxification. Additionally, it helps to mini-
mize the appearance of pores, control oiliness, and improve overall skin texture. Its
natural and sustainable nature aligns with the increasing demand for eco-friendly
and clean beauty products, making activated carbon a preferred choice in the cos-
metics industry.
This review, will describe the potential of biomass to be used as activated carbon
and carbon-rich materials, including the parameters used in the conversion process
and its applications. In addition, it will also explain the use of activated charcoal and
carbon-rich materials from biomass specifically for cosmetic applications, the tech-
nology currently used, and the future outlook for using activated carbon for
cosmetics.

10.2 Activated Carbon Potential from Biomass


(Carbonization Process, Characterization, Application)

Biomass with the potential to produce rich-carbon materials typically refers to bio-
mass rich in carbon content. It can be used as a precursor for producing carbon-­
based materials such as activated carbon, biochar, and carbon nanomaterials. These
materials have various applications, including water purification, energy storage,
environmental remediation, catalyst supports, and cosmetics.
220 I. Budiman et al.

10.2.1 Conversion Process

Converting biomass into rich-carbon materials can vary depending on the material
produced. Here are a few conversion processes, along with some references for
further reading:
(a) Pyrolysis is a thermochemical process that converts biomass feedstocks into
valuable products, including biomass-derived activated carbon. Pyrolysis
involves the heating of biomass in the absence of oxygen, leading to the decom-
position of complex organic compounds into simpler molecules, especially
holocellulose and lignin, to become carbon atoms. This process offers several
advantages for the production of activated carbon, such as the ability to tailor
the properties of the final product and the utilization of various biomass feed-
stocks (Awasthi et al. 2023). Based on temperature, temperature increase rate,
and annealing time, pyrolysis is further divided into three classifications,
namely slow pyrolysis, fast pyrolysis, and flash pyrolysis. All three of these
processes have the goal of producing a specific end product (Awasthi
et al. 2023).
(b) Hydrothermal carbonization (HTC) is a process that involves the conversion of
biomass into carbon-rich materials under high temperatures and pressure in the
presence of water. It can be used for feedstocks, including lignocellulosic bio-
mass, algae, and waste materials (Funke and Ziegler 2010; Libra et al. 2011).
This hydrothermal carbonization is carried out at temperatures below 300 °C to
release hemicellulose and is an intermediate process prior to the activation pro-
cess to produce activated charcoal. It is hoped that the activated charcoal pro-
duced by using hydrothermal carbonization as an intermediate process is
activated charcoal which has the ability to be an excellent adsorbent (Ishibashi
et al. 2014; Budiman et al. 2019).
(c) Activation is a process that enhances the porosity and adsorption properties of
carbon materials. It involves the treatment of biomass-derived carbon materials,
such as biochar or carbonized biomass, with activating agents like steam, car-
bon dioxide, or chemicals, and a combination of physical and chemical pro-
cesses. This process is commonly used to produce activated carbon. Several
factors affect the quality of activated carbon through this activation process,
including activation temperature, type of activator, the ratio of activator to char-
coal, and activation or residence time (Anuwar and Khamaruddin 2021).

10.2.2 Process Parameters

The process parameters for carbonizing biomass can vary depending on the specific
biomass feedstock, such as carbonization temperature, and the desired properties of
the resulting carbon material. Here are some commonly studied process parameters
for biomass carbonization (Weber and Quicker 2018; Serafin and Dziejarski 2023):
10 Activated Carbon for Cosmetics Applications 221

(a) Particle size and feedstock preparation can impact carbonization efficiency.
Smaller particle sizes provide a larger surface area for heat transfer and chemi-
cal reactions, which can improve carbonization. However, fine particles may
lead to increased tar and gas production. Therefore, a suitable particle size
range needs to be determined based on the specific feedstock and process
conditions.
(b) Carbonization temperature is a crucial parameter that significantly influences
the properties of the resulting carbon material. Higher temperatures generally
lead to higher carbon content and increased thermal stability. The optimal tem-
perature range for biomass carbonization varies depending on the feedstock but
typically falls between 300 °C and 800 °C. Different temperature profiles, such
as slow or fast pyrolysis, can also impact the final product.
(c) Residence time or duration the biomass is exposed to the carbonization tem-
perature is a significant parameter. Longer residence times often result in higher
carbon yields and increased carbonization efficiency. However, excessively
long residence times can lead to excessive carbon loss and degradation. The
optimal residence time depends on feedstock composition, particle size, and
reactor design.
(d) The heating rate influences the rate of volatile release and carbonization reac-
tions. A slow heating rate allows for better control over the process and can
result in higher-quality carbon materials with improved porosity. However,
slower heating rates can increase the process duration and energy requirements.
The heating rate is typically expressed in degrees Celsius per minute (°C/min).
(e) Pressure and atmosphere can affect the carbonization process. Carbonization
processes can be conducted under various atmospheric conditions, such as inert
gas or vacuum. These conditions help prevent unwanted oxidation reactions
and promote carbonization. The pressure and atmosphere chosen depend on the
specific carbonization process and equipment being used.

10.2.3 Characteristics of Activated Carbon

The characteristics of carbon derived from biomass can vary depending on factors
such as biomass feedstock, carbonization process parameters, and post-treatment
methods. Here are some key characteristics commonly observed in carbon materials
derived from biomass (Serafin and Dziejarski 2023):
(a) Carbon content. Carbon materials derived from biomass typically have a high
carbon content. The carbon content can range from 40% to 95% or even higher,
depending on the feedstock, carbonization, and activation process.
(b) Porosity. Biomass-derived carbon materials often possess a significant amount
of porosity, which can be categorized into three types: micropores (pores with
diameters less than 2 nm), mesopores (pores with diameters between 2 nm and
50 nm), and macropores (pores with diameters greater than 50 nm). The
222 I. Budiman et al.

p­resence of porosity provides a large surface area, allowing for increased


adsorption capacity and potential applications in gas storage, catalysis, and
water treatment.
(c) Surface chemistry. The surface chemistry of biomass-derived carbon materials
can be modified during carbonization and post-treatment processes. Surface
functional groups, such as hydroxyl, carboxyl, and phenolic, can be present on
the carbon surface. These functional groups play a crucial role in the adsorption
and reactivity of carbon materials.
(d) Thermal stability. Carbon materials derived from biomass can exhibit good
thermal stability, especially when carbonized at high temperatures. It is suitable
for applications requiring high-temperature stability, such as catalysis or elec-
trode materials in energy storage devices.
(e) Electrical conductivity. Depending on the carbonization conditions, biomass-­
derived carbon materials can exhibit varying degrees of electrical conductivity.
This property makes them useful for applications in energy storage (e.g., super-
capacitors) and electronic devices.
(f) Surface area. Biomass-derived carbon materials can have a high specific sur-
face area, which is beneficial for adsorption-based applications. The surface
area typically ranges from a few hundred to several thousand square meters
per gram.

10.2.4 Activated Carbon Application

Biomass-based activated carbon has many functions and can be used in various
applications, including bioenergy/biofuels, the development of biomass-based
materials, environmental remediation and pollutant adsorption, energy storage, and
cosmetics.
Bioenergy and Biofuel Production. The increasing global demand for clean and
sustainable energy has led to a growing interest in bioenergy production. Biomass-­
derived activated carbon plays a vital role in this field by facilitating the conversion
of biomass feedstocks into biofuels through various processes such as pyrolysis,
gasification, and carbonization. Activated carbon serves as a catalyst, adsorbent, or
support material, enhancing the efficiency of biomass conversion and the quality of
biofuel products. The unique properties of activated carbon, including its high sur-
face area, porosity, and thermal stability, contribute to improved biofuel yields and
higher energy content (Saidur et al. 2011; Heberlein et al. 2022; Yana et al. 2022).
Bio-based Materials. The development of bio-based materials is crucial for
reducing dependence on fossil fuels and mitigating the environmental impact asso-
ciated with traditional materials. Biomass-derived activated carbon offers a sustain-
able and versatile solution in the production of bio-based materials. Its porous
structure and adsorption properties enable the incorporation of activated carbon into
composite materials, coatings, and membranes. These materials find applications in
diverse industries, including construction, packaging, textiles, and electronics.
10 Activated Carbon for Cosmetics Applications 223

Biomass-derived activated carbon enhances the performance, durability, and sus-


tainability of bio-based products, contributing to a more circular and eco-friendly
economy.
Environmental Remediation and Pollutant Adsorption. Environmental pollution
and the presence of various contaminants pose significant threats to ecosystems and
human health. Biomass-derived activated carbon offers a promising solution for
remediation purposes. Due to its porous structure and exceptional adsorption capa-
bilities, activated carbon can effectively trap and remove pollutants, including heavy
metals, organic compounds, and even emerging contaminants like pharmaceuticals
and microplastics. Its application in water and air purification systems contributes
to mitigating environmental pollution and safeguarding public health (Zhang et al.
2021; Nicolae et al. 2022; Ramya et al. 2022).
Energy Storage. Activated carbon derived from biomass is gaining significant
attention as a promising material for energy storage applications. This renewable
and sustainable resource offers numerous advantages, including its abundant avail-
ability and low environmental impact compared to traditional fossil fuel-derived
carbons. The unique porous structure of activated carbon enables high surface area,
which allows for efficient adsorption of ions and molecules. In energy storage sys-
tems, such as supercapacitors and batteries, activated carbon can serve as an elec-
trode material, providing a large interface for electrochemical reactions and
enhancing energy storage capacity. Furthermore, the ability to tailor the activation
process and precursor materials allows for the optimization of specific properties,
such as pore size distribution and surface chemistry, further enhancing the perfor-
mance and stability of the energy storage devices. By utilizing activated carbon
derived from biomass, we can not only mitigate the reliance on non-renewable
resources but also contribute to the development of sustainable energy storage tech-
nologies for a greener future (Rashidi et al. 2022; Selvaraj et al. 2022; Yang
et al. 2022).
Cosmetics. The cosmetics industry is increasingly embracing sustainable and
natural alternatives in product formulations. Biomass-derived activated carbon has
gained attention as an eco-friendly ingredient with multiple benefits. Its adsorption
properties make it suitable for deep cleansing, detoxification, and oil control in skin-
care products. Activated carbon can remove impurities, pollutants, and excess
sebum from the skin, contributing to improved complexion and overall skin health.
Furthermore, its use in hair care products helps eliminate pollutants and enhance
scalp health. A description of the use of activated carbon for cosmetic applications
will be presented in the chapter below.

10.3 Activated Carbon for Cosmetics Application

Carbon or biocarbon is activated charcoal, like coal but from biomass that has been
carbonized and ground into powder. The use of carbon in beauty products became a
popular trend due to their properties. Enhancements in the properties of carbon,
224 I. Budiman et al.

such as color, solubility, high porosity, controllable size, adsorptive, and low toxic-
ity, are potential implications for personal care and cosmetic products (ECHA n.d.;
Palsan et al. 2020; Johnson et al. 2023). A number of cosmetic companies and sev-
eral dermatologists have included carbon as an ingredient in care and beauty prod-
ucts (Palsan et al. 2020; Johnson et al. 2023). In the following, we describe the
application of carbon in cosmetics.

10.3.1 Skin Cleaner

Nowadays healthy skin is important in maintaining youthful skin. Exposure to pol-


lution such as dust or smoke and make-up use could trap in pores and cause skin
problems. Cleaning the skin could bring advancement in the treatment of everyday
skin problems. Intense deep cleansing into the pores without disturbing the oil
glands is indispensable. Carbon with a large surface area, high porosity, and low
irritation are important factors for effective cleaning (Asari 2007; Juliano and
Magrini 2018). It has the advantage of trapping and absorbing toxins (cutaneous),
oil, and chemicals from the skin’s surface, clearing clogged pores and detoxifying
them (Sanchez et al. 2020).
Around 2014, several well-known cosmetic companies in the field of skin care
launched charcoal-based products that can smooth the skin from first use (Sanchez
et al. 2020). Afterward, the use of carbon in skincare products began to be popular
and produced in facial cleansers, pore strips, face masks, scrubs, toothpaste, sham-
poo, bath soap, and facial soap. In its working system, the carbon naturally cleans
the pores and detoxifies when the charcoal product is rinsed or peeled. Apart from
that, it has other benefits for the skin, including removing dead skin cells and
improving texture and appearance. However, the carbon density in the surfactant is
unstable, which makes it precipitate to the bottom, requiring a new formulation.
Recent advances in formulation techniques and natural ingredient formulas offer
a deep cleansing action and are gentle. In previous studies, Kabra et al. (2018)
reported that the addition of activated carbon combined with green tea extract in the
facial cleanser formulation provides mild skin cleansing (Kabra et al. 2018). They
also did a test to check the accuracy of the face wash, and it came out clean, softer,
and smoother.
Exfoliation is also part of skin cleansing. They can remove dead cells, dirt, dust,
and oil from the skin. Physical exfoliation usually uses two types of ingredients,
synthetic and natural sources. Commonly, synthetic materials used as microbeads
are made of polyethylene (PE), polypropylene (PP), or cross-linked polymethacry-
late in a spherical shape (Napper et al. 2015; Draelos 2018). However, the properties
of synthetic beads that are difficult to decompose and build food chains become
considered. This problem was reported by Chang (2015), through its consumer sur-
vey regarding the estimated volume of microplastics entering wastewater streams
(Chang 2015). Therefore, it is important to minimize microplastic pollution by
using natural materials (Chang 2015; Mu et al. 2023).
10 Activated Carbon for Cosmetics Applications 225

Natural scrubbing agents are made of various types of seeds, shells or grains,
and biocarbon. Even though this type is from a natural source, it may cause skin
irritation due to its abrasiveness. Irregular shapes with sharp edges and inconstant
size became one of the factors(Chang 2015; Mu et al. 2023). Here, carbon is the
best choice as an exfoliating agent that is able to cover up these weaknesses. A
large number of pores and the ability to absorb carbon make it easy to formulate
various types of cleansers, such as cold cream cleansers, cleansing milk, cleansing
oils, oil cleansing balms, and micellar water cleansers (Kitsongsermthon
et al. 2017).

10.3.2 Facial Mask

The moisture of skin content plays an important role in skin health, aesthetics, and
radiance. The effects of exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays (sun damage), aging,
dehydration, stress, medications, and various illnesses can cause skin decay
(Nilforoushzadeh et al. 2018). Face masks are a solution that is easy to come by,
easy to apply, and shows an instant effect on the skin. Nowadays, facial masks have
become popularly used by both men and women. The bioactive ingredients added to
the mask are expected to provide good and deep moisture to the skin, remove sebum,
and rejuvenate the skin.
There are several types of facial masks, such as sheet masks, rinse-off masks,
peel-out masks, and hydrogel masks. Sheet masks are not designed for oily or acne-­
prone skin due to the increased amount of bacteria on the surface skin
(Nilforoushzadeh et al. 2018). In general, sheet masks contain more facial serum
(Zhou et al. 2022). Rinse masks are masks that must be rinsed after use. There are
several types, such as moisturizing, cleansing, toning, exfoliating, waxing, and mud
masks. Because it can be composed of a variety of good ingredients that the skin
needs with various problems, this type of mask can be used by various skin types.
In contrast, to rinse masks, the use of peel-off masks after use can be easily peeled
off without needing to be rinsed. Application time depends on the material of the
mask. This mask can also be composed according to skin care (Velasco et al. 2014;
Prasetyo et al. 2019). A hydrogel mask is a mask that can contain water in it.
Hydrogel masks are usually used for sensitive skin with a cooling and soothing
effect (Aramwit and Bang 2014).
Here, carbon is widely used in peel-off and rinse masks as an absorbent for
facial oil, deep pore cleanser, and exfoliant. In 2019, Kulkarni et al. formulated an
activated charcoal peel-off mask, and their report showed the addition of activated
charcoal could enhance the peel-off mask by absorbing dust and unblocking the
clogged pores (Kulkarni et al. 2019). However, peel-off masks containing charcoal
can cause excessive exfoliation, especially in people with sensitive skin or acne-
prone or problematic skin that results in very painful conditions. Therefore, com-
binations with moisturizers and herbal extracts can be added to reduce the negative
effects.
226 I. Budiman et al.

10.3.3 Eye Cosmetics

The statement “speak with the eyes” makes eye make-up a must in make-up perfec-
tion. Eye cosmetics have been used for thousands of years in Egyptian, Greek,
Roman, Chinese, Japanese, Phoenician, Indian, and Muslim civilizations (Zhou
et al. 2022). The historical use of eye make-up was to take a model of Gods, seek
divine favor, protect the eyelids from the glare of the sun, keep out flies, protect
toward the Evil Eye, and serve as an important burial gift, to purify and allow entry
to the afterlife (Crespi and Mattix 2000; Al-Ashban et al. 2004; Murube 2013;
Sullivan et al. 2023). Today, glamorous lifestyles and social media are influencing
the use of eye make-up. Eye make-up is not only used by women but also by men
with various artistic creations. Eye cosmetics, or eye make-up, include mascaras,
eye lines, eyeliner pencils, eyebrows, and shadows.
Eye shadow is a cosmetic made by compaction of powder, anhydrous cream, and
emulsions, but nowadays, paste forms are also made for easier application (Draelos
2001; Volpe et al. 2012). Eye pencils are made from natural or synthetic wax bases,
which are composited with mineral or vegetable oils, pigments, and lanolin deriva-
tives to help achieve colored pencils that are extruded or printed in containers or
molds (Karthikraj 2018). Eyeliner is designed to sharpen and line the lower and
upper eyelids, thereby enhancing the appearance of the eye shape. Eyeliner is avail-
able in two forms, liquid or solid (Al-Ashban et al. 2004; McMichael and Stoff
2018). Mascara has the same content as eyeliners but has a higher percentage of wax
(Al-Ashban et al. 2004; McMichael and Stoff 2018; Sullivan et al. 2023). Most of
them use coal or activated carbon as the black pigment.
Previously, eye make-up used ingredients derived from plants, animals, and/or
minerals (Sullivan et al. 2023). In Asia, Africa, and the Middle East, they often use
Kajal, collyrium, surma, or kohl. These materials may be toxic because they contain
galena (i.e., lead sulfide) or stibnite (i.e., antimony sulfide), as well as green udju-­
containing malachite (i.e., copper carbonate) (Murube 2013; McMullen and
Dell’Acqua 2023). Canada and the European Union prohibit the presence of harm-
ful minerals in eye cosmetics because they can cause eye problems such as conjunc-
tivitis, ulceration, and allergic contact dermatitis (Al-Ashban et al. 2004; Murube
2013; McMichael and Stoff 2018; Sullivan et al. 2023).
Activated charcoal is chosen to be one of the black pigment ingredients (Couteau
et al. 2022). Counteau et al. (2022) reported that the use of activated charcoal in eye
cosmetics had been extensively studied. This means that the cosmetic industry
needs to find alternative black pigments that are less irritating and harmful (Couteau
et al. 2022). Activated charcoal is produced from natural materials such as bamboo,
coconut, or wood, which have a lot of carbon content and are heated to high tem-
peratures. Many DIY (do it yourself) mascaras that are more eco-friendly and less
harmful use activated charcoal topped with olive oil (Brandon n.d.; Expert n.d.;
Worldexpogreece n.d.; Couteau et al. 2022). The use of activated charcoal does not
exclude the presence of hazardous materials, such as heavy metals, which are harm-
ful to human health. However, the amount of heavy metal content will be much
10 Activated Carbon for Cosmetics Applications 227

lower than minerals, so users must be more attentive when buying products by read-
ing the composition first. Some recipes just mention ‘charcoal’ not “activated.”
Charcoal-based would not be possible to check the quality first before incorporation
into the excipient (Couteau et al. 2022). However, this problem can be reduced by
varying the dosage accuracy and particle size and combining it with other good
ingredients.

10.3.4 Anti-Odorant

Body odors are a common problem, but they can greatly affect the quality of life of
a person, regardless of age or gender, because they can create a negative impression.
There is a misconception that sweat causes body odor when in fact, human sweat is
almost odorless. Body odor occurs due to bacterial metabolism, which decomposes
protein molecules in sweat and produces odor and oxidation of sweat and lipids on
human skin (Hara et al. 2020; Nahar 2020). Human body odor consists of several
volatile organic compounds, such as short-chain fatty acids, ketones, amine, alco-
hols, aldehydes, ketone phenols, etc. (Natsch et al. 2006; Nahar 2020). Several
analyses have been carried out to identify volatile odor compounds and their precur-
sors in human body odor. In previous studies, diacetyl was identified as a bad odor-­
producing compound released by the scalp, axillae, and feet (Hara et al. 2014). In
2015, Hara et al. categorized three major axillary odors of Japanese: milk-like odor,
cumin-like odor, and acid-like odor (Hara et al. 2015). Nahar (2020) reported that
trimethylamine, acetic acid, and caproic acid are the main substances of bad smell
(Nahar 2020).
Due to increased awareness, many people wish to enhance their impression by
suppressing their unpleasant body odor. Many cosmetic industries are concerned
with creating products and treatments to reduce human body odor and have bacteri-
cidal and antiperspirant properties. Commonly used deodorants can be used as anti-
perspirants that block human sweat, bactericidal agents to prevent bacteria from
growing and inhibit the formation of odors involving metabolism, and adsorbents
that prevent body odor due to volatile organic compounds (Hara et al. 2014, 2015,
2020; Nahar 2020). Deodorants are produced in liquid forms, such as roll-ons, and
powder forms, such as powder sprinkles.
Over the decades, new technologies have been developed, providing innovations
in increasing the effectiveness of odor protection using natural materials that are
harmless. Activated carbon is a candidate for an anti-odor agent made from biomass
such as bamboo, coconut shells, empty fruit bunches, fibers, shells, fronds, and
wood chips. It has a porous surface that can deactivate various substances by absorb-
ing them on a large carbon surface. Activated charcoal draws out and absorbs dirt
and bacteria from your pores and detoxifies the skin to remove body odor without
harsh chemicals or synthetics. In 2014, activated carbon was reported to be used
therapeutically by patients with trimethylaminuria, a self-described condition of
fishy body odor. After being treated with activated charcoal, the fishy odor was
228 I. Budiman et al.

drastically reduced (Ulman et al. 2014). Hara et al. (2020) reported a new deodorant
ingredient, white activated carbon, exhibits a natural tone to human skin. Compared
with ZnO, which shows better deodorant characteristics, increasing the rate of
adsorption to volatile organic compounds significantly suppresses the formation of
axillary odor without bactericidal effect and poses no risk to human skin (Hara et al.
2020). Deodorant formulations from activated palm shell charcoal in powder and
roll-on forms have also been reported and evaluated through tests: Organoleptic
test, homogeneity, pH measurement, viscosity, flow properties, drying time, mois-
ture content, flow time, density, cycle test, hedonic. Test, irritation test, and sweat
adsorption effectiveness test. The results show that deodorant powder absorbs sweat
more effectively than roll-on deodorant, has no clear supernatant, is comfortable to
use (does not leave marks or stains), and does not show allergic reactions (Ulman
et al. 2014).

10.3.5 Anti-Pollution

In modern and metropolitan life, air pollution is a problem that is increasing every
year. Most of the air pollution comes from anthropogenic activities, the burning of
fossil fuels, industrial processes, and exhaust gases from transportation vehicles and
agricultural sources. Air pollution consists of various kinds of gases, which are
divided into two types, primary pollutants, namely CO2, CO, SO2, NO, NO2, organic
pollutants, particulate matter, and heavy metals, while secondary pollutants are pol-
lutants originating from chemical reactions and photochemical reactions such as
ozone (O3), NO2, peroxyacetyl nitrate, hydrogen peroxide, and aldehydes (Krutmann
et al. 2014). Exposure to air pollution can penetrate the human body through inhala-
tion and ingestion, through skin contact, and cause accumulation of acute and long-­
term cumulative effects on human health.
The impact of air pollution also has a considerable effect on human skin and has
different toxicology. Particulates, which are combustion particles formed by ele-
mental carbon coated with various metals, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons,
nitrates, and sulfates, can cause oxidative stress on the skin (Kim et al. 2016). It
generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) and causes the secretion of pro-­
inflammatory cytokines, resulting in the degradation of mature skin collagen, which
contributes to skin aging (Pan et al. 2015). Besides that, Air pollution, such as UV
radiation and smoking, are clearly recognized as important extrinsic skin aging fac-
tors that can trigger further cellular responses (Pan et al. 2015).
Several evaluation results from customers confirm that adverse environmental
conditions affect the skin, and the reaction depends on the type of skin, such as dry
and dull skin, dark spots and uneven skin tone, wrinkles and fine lines, oily skin and
acne, sensitive skin, and imperfection (Milani et al. 2019). Beauty experts also
agree that pollution can damage the skin barrier, resulting in decreased collagen
and elasticity, which can lead to dehydration, hyperpigmentation, photoaging,
excessive sebum secretion, inflammation and sensitive skin, eczema, and atopic
10 Activated Carbon for Cosmetics Applications 229

dermatitis. A common strategy for formulating anti-pollution products involves


using a variety of products that exfoliate, repair, and protect the skin. In previous
research, they formulated some materials to counteract the effects of pollution,
such as cleansing or exfoliation, repulsing dust, repairing the skin barrier, boosting
hydration, antioxidant, reducing inflammation, promoting collagen synthesis, con-
trolling pigmentation or melanogenesis, and sun protection or anti-UV (Milani
et al. 2019):
Anti-pollution can be offered in various products such as make-up powder, facial
tissue, masks, mists, and exfoliating products. Here, activated charcoal is part of an
anti-pollutant formula where activated carbon plays a role in absorbing toxins and
exfoliating the skin. This is due to the highly porous nature of activated carbon,
which can draw toxins from pollution up and out of the skin (Khmaladze et al.
2020). On the other hand, the use of activated carbon as an anti-pollutant is as a skin
detox through mask products and exfoliators. Some examples of products that come
close to providing anti-pollution benefits are Pond’s Men Pollution Out Face Wash
with a combination of Charcoal and Coffee Bean Scrub and advanced Vita Mineral
Deep Detox Mask with Activated Charcoal (Mistry 2017).

10.3.6 Derivative Carbon for Anti-UV

During outdoor activities, sunlight will direct contact with the skin, in which the
solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is divided into UVC (190–290 nm), UVA
(400–315 nm), and UVB (315–290 nm) bands. Sun exposure has a positive effect
on the synthesis of vitamin D, but excess of UVA and UVB can lead to hyperpig-
mentation, photoaging, elastin, sunburns, degradation of extracellular matrix com-
ponents viz., collagen type I, fibronectin, DNA strand breaks, proteoglycans
induced by mitogen-activated protein kinases and cancer (Yaghoubi et al. 2015;
Balkrishna et al. 2022). Sunscreens are products designed to protect the skin by
absorbing, blocking, or eliminating UV radiation. Sunscreen with a minimum sun
protection factor of 15 (SPF15) is required for maximum effect. There are two
types of sunscreens, viz. physical sunscreens contain minerals that reflect UV rays
and chemical sunscreens use ingredients that absorb and convert UV rays into
heat. Zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, red veterinary petrolatum, kaolin,
and calamine are the ingredients of the physical sunscreen. Octocrylene, octyl
salicylate, and octyl methoxycinnamate are the active ingredients of chemical
sunscreen.
The chemical sunscreen is classified into three types (Yaghoubi et al. 2015),
1. Photostable filters: The molecules absorb the energy and dissipate it in the form
of heat.
2. Photounstable filters: the molecule absorbs the UV radian with degradation or
changes its chemical structure.
3. Photoreactive filters: The molecule will be excited on irradiation with UV.
230 I. Budiman et al.

The cosmetic industry has now turned to the production of eco-friendly nano-
materials, which can serve as broad-spectrum UV protectors and nano cosmeceu-
ticals. Carbon dots (CDs) are zero-dimensional carbon-based nanomaterials with
a particle size of less than 10 nm (Cui et al. 2021; Chen and Hao 2023). CDs have
special characteristics, such as adjustable fluorescence emission, sensing ability,
low toxicity, photostability, hydrophilicity, functional tunability, and easy synthe-
sis (Supjaroenpisan et al. 2021). The CDs exhibited excellent anti-UV application
results with a wide range of UV irradiation, tuneable photoluminescence, and
good compatibility (Balkrishna et al. 2022). This makes CDs a promising alterna-
tive to UV absorbers. In previous studies, Modified CD has been reported to
exhibit broad-­spectrum UV absorption, high UV absorption efficiency, good sta-
bility, and low toxicity, so it has the potential to become a commercial UV
absorber with a sun protection factor of up to 22 (Hu et al. 2019). In 2021, other
researchers reported heteroatom doping of CDs and undoped CDs was success-
fully synthesized from sugars and showed the highest UV–vis absorption, pheno-
lic content, antioxidant activity, photostability, biocompatibility, and non-toxic
applications(Supjaroenpisan et al. 2021). Balkrishna et al. (2022) successfully
synthesized CDs from Withania somnifera root extract. The results showed excel-
lent sun protection in the UV region of 280–400 nm and photoluminescence
(Balkrishna et al. 2022). From these studies can be concluded that CDs have good
potential as nano cosmeceuticals for therapeutic applications and as a component
of nano sun protection.

10.4 Development of Activated Carbon for Future


Cosmetic Applications

With the growing environmental problems that are in line with skin health, the
development of skincare products needs to be continuously developed to address
the various problems that arise. In this case, activated carbon plays a role in every
product under development, but for further discoveries, nanoscale versions of the
material are a future demand in cosmetic and personal care products. The purpose
of this modification is to manipulate the material at the atomic or molecular level so
as to provide better protection and properties, such as for cleaning products, detoxi-
fication, oil absorbent, anti-odor, anti-UV, exfoliator, and anti-pollutant. In addition,
the effectiveness of its performance will increase because it can penetrate deeper
into the skin. On the other hand, with the continuous increase in creativity and mod-
ern lifestyle, cosmetic products are important to support appearance. The durability
and color density of the product, as well as minimal irritation, are the main targets.
From previous reviews, we know that carbon derivatives such as functionalized car-
bon dots have superior properties, especially for anti-UV products, non-toxic, and
have minimal irritation. Therefore, it is necessary to develop and utilize it with a
broader purpose in the cosmetic field.
10 Activated Carbon for Cosmetics Applications 231

10.5 Conclusion

In conclusion, biomass-based activated carbon holds great potential for current


cosmetic applications due to its natural origin, renewable nature, and versatile
adsorption properties. It can effectively remove impurities, toxins, and excess oils
from the skin, making it an attractive ingredient for various skincare products.
However, several challenges need to be addressed for the widespread development
and adoption of biomass-based activated carbon cosmetics technology in the future.
Firstly, there is a need for standardized production methods and quality control
measures to ensure consistency and purity of the activated carbon derived from
biomass. This requires further research and development in refining the activation
process and optimizing the carbon’s properties. Additionally, the scalability of bio-
mass sourcing and its environmental impact must be carefully considered to ensure
sustainable production practices. Furthermore, thorough safety evaluations and
regulatory compliance need to be conducted to guarantee the long-term safety and
efficacy of biomass-­based activated carbon in cosmetic formulations. Overcoming
these challenges will pave the way for the integration of biomass-based activated
carbon into cosmetic products, offering consumers eco-friendly and effective skin-
care solutions that align with their growing demand for natural and sustainable
alternatives.

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