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BROTHER S BOND ’
Saving the planet with regenerative grain whiskey

THE IDEAL PEDIGREED RYES

BARTENDER Finding new flavors in rye whiskey

EXPERIENCE NEW RIFF

Celebrating a decade in
How Evan Williams is honoring
the legacy of Tom Bullock the whiskey business
 FROM THE EDITOR

Spoiled for choice

Making the right selection for you

WRITTEN BY BRADLEY WEIR

W
e are faced with a variety of is going to have a great impact on the final What you might not be aware of is just
different choices every single resulting product. Blenders, for example, how much choice there is in the industry
day in our lives. Some choices need to deliberate long and hard about the when it comes to selecting grain, and how
can be life-defining, while different whiskeys that will make up the every decision affects the entire whiskey.
others can be so small that the outcome may blend, taking into account many potential Brother’s Bond is flying the flag for
prove ultimately insignificant. outcomes, including the desired flavor. At regenerative agriculture, and in particular
My fiancée and I are currently in the the other end, consumers have a choice the use of regenerative grain in its future
process of planning our wedding, which between thousands of whiskeys, and whiskey releases. Regenerative agriculture is
those of you who are married (or are soon to choosing just a single one can be influenced all about prioritizing the health of the soil,
be) will know is filled with endless choices, by a number of different factors, including and is a practice that the co-founders have
some much more substantial and significant price, flavor, and availability. been passionate about since the brand’s
to the overall event than others. Even after In this issue, we’re focusing on perhaps launch. This is a choice that the duo have
selecting a venue, made — to be more
there’s a number eco-conscious in their
of head-scratching whiskey production.
decisions to make
that we won’t ever There is no shortage of choice Susan Reigler,
meanwhile, discusses
be faced with again. the importance of
Where do we source
the flowers from?
in the world of whiskey hybrid grains, and from
where brands such as
What color chairs Balcones Distilling are
do we select for our sourcing their blue
guests? What three-course meal do we want the most important component of whiskey corn, or where Woodford Reserve is sourcing
at the dinner? And, most importantly, do we production, and one of the most important its rye. The choices that these brands make
really need a mini-golf course at the outdoor choices that whiskey brands are faced with on where exactly they get their grains
evening reception? (In this instance, yes, we every day — grain. from can have financial motivations (such
absolutely do.) When crafting a whiskey, those behind as supporting farmers in the area) or the
Some choices we can overthink (and the process have somewhat of a blank canvas motivation to simply give the whiskey its
there’s nothing wrong with that), maybe with which style of whiskey they wish to own geographical signature.
because we’re trying to be perfectionists, create, within reason. Almost all whiskeys Maggie Kimberl explores pedigreed ryes
or we’re worried about the potential will start with corn, rye, barley, or wheat. in this issue, where again, brands creating
consequences if we make the wrong one, but What blend of grains is used, and what rye whiskeys are faced with many choices —
others do need much deliberation. percentage of each of these grains is used, from what rye percentage to use, to where it
Think about a time recently where you’ve will determine what style the whiskey is. A is sourced from, to the variety of rye.
had to make a choice, however big or small, bourbon must use at least 51 per cent corn, When you come to learn about the sheer
and how that has impacted you. while a rye whiskey must use at least 51 per volume of choice and importance each one
There is no shortage of choice in the world cent rye. Sounds simple, right? I know many has on the outcome of the whiskey in the
of whiskey. From distillers, to blenders, to of you whiskey aficionados are reading this context of grain, it’s easy to gain an even
farmers, to consumers, everybody in the thinking, “Tell me something I don’t know,” greater appreciation of the whiskeys and
process is making some kind of choice that but it’s important to provide context. brands that we love so much.

3
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62
50 In this issue
COLUMNS
03 EDITOR’S WORD
Spoiled for choice
08 THOUGHTS FROM MAGGIE KIMBERL
Pedigreed grains

DISTILLERY FOCUS
28 NEW RIFF
Celebrating a decadeTERVIEW

INTERVIEW
16 JAYWALK RYE
Allen Katz on resurrecting an heirloom ryeTT
28 FEATURES
10 BROTHER’S BOND
Using regenerative grain to save the planetNT
22 HYBRID GRAINS
Examining the importance of grain developmentNT
44 PEDIGREED RYES
Finding new flavors in rye whiskey
50 KENTUCKY WHISKEY WONDERLAND
The Whiskey House is combining science and tradition
56 TEXMALT
Innovating the Texas malting industryNT
74 CASTAWAY
Caleb Trigo chooses his desert island whiskeys

PAIRINGS & TASTINGS

34 COCKTAILS
The Ideal Bartender Experience
40 CIGARS
Debunking mythsNT
62 PEGGY’S PALATE
More mouth-watering whiskey and food pairingsT
66 TASTINGS
Peggy and Susan sample the latest releases
 The world’s premier whisky tasting show

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Where to catch Whisky Live down under

The 2024 Whisky Live season in Australia to all classes, and a selection of hot and cold
is in full swing, with premier tasting shows food to graze on while tasting. Visitors will
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Following events in Melbourne and Canberra day from the Whisky Live shop.
in May and Brisbane in June, the calendar Alongside the exhibitors’ stalls, each
will take in Adelaide and Sydney before Whisky Live show will host its own Rare and
concluding in Perth in August. Old Bar, housing a selection of fine, rare, and
Ticket holders will be able to explore a otherwise hard-to-find bottlings that can
vast array of high-quality whiskeys from be sampled for an additional price. Rare and
countries including Scotland, Ireland, Old Bar vouchers can also be purchased and
Japan, and of course Australia. There redeemed at any of the Whisky Live shows.
will be short classes presented by distillers The upcoming Whisky Live dates in
and ambassadors that offer the chance Australia in 2024 are: Adelaide, July 5–6;
to sample whiskeys not available at the Sydney, July 19–20; and Perth, August
main event, as well as classes that offer an 16–17.
introduction to whiskey for those who are Tickets start from AU$155 per person.
new to the category. For more information on the individual
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Find out more at www.whiskylive.com

THOUGHTS FROM Maggie Kimberl

Pedigreed grains
Artisan distillers take the lead on pedigreed grains

WRITTEN BY MAGGIE KIMBERL

G
rains are one of the most exciting different pedigreed ryes present different nearby fields of related grains. These grains
frontiers in the whiskey world. colors and have different flavor compounds can also have a lower yield, which means less
Corn is a new world crop, so a lot and therefore different flavors. Using money for the farmer, but those same low
of it was grown in the southern different varietals of grains can unlock a yields can mean better whiskey production
colonies in the early days when distillation whole new world of flavor for whiskeys. because the starch content is usually higher.
was just part of farming, while rye was But there are some drawbacks. First, many New Riff has been a leader in using
grown in great quantities in the northern of these grains are nearly extinct and it can pedigreed varietals of corn, wheat, rye, and
colonies. There were a lot of different types take years to propagate enough to make a even barley. Its Yellow Leaming and Blue
of corn, and they were often specific to a batch of whiskey. This is exactly what has Clarage corn bourbons offered whiskey fans
region or microclimate, which meant that been done by the Delaware Valley Fields a glimpse into new flavor possibilities, as did
different flavors were available in different Association in Pennsylvania and Mammoth their wheated bourbon made from Turkey
regions. As homogeneity became the norm Distilling in Michigan — each started with Red wheat. Jeptha Creed has made a name
in agriculture, grains for itself with its use
used for whiskey of Bloody Butcher corn
making became in all its bourbons, and
common varietals
— yellow dent corn, The future is looking bright Ironroot Republic has
taken home numerous
common rye, and soft World Whiskies Awards
red winter wheat. Now,
artisan distillers are
– and tasty! for whiskeys using a
variety of heirloom
looking to heritage and pedigreed corns
and pedigreed grain including the Suntava
varietals as a way to differentiate their approximately 30g of seeds from a USDA Purple corn in its Hubris Corn Whiskey.
products in the marketplace. The future is seed bank, which was carefully propagated Chattanooga Whiskey uses Dinkel wheat
looking bright — and tasty! until there was enough to grow whole fields in its Experimental Batch 037, while Dry
There are different flavonoid compounds of it. These projects each took about four to Land Distillers make a wheat whiskey using
in grains that correspond not only to five years before they were able to produce Antero wheat. These projects are small,
different colors of the grains, but also to enough Rosen rye grain to make whiskey, but they are starting to reshape the flavors
different flavors those grains can produce. and it still has to be in a barrel for a few years available to whiskey fans.
The different colors of flavonoids in corn before it can make it to market. It’s a long, In addition to new flavors being unlocked
are anthocyanins, which are responsible costly process, but the preliminary results through genetic diversity in grains, we’re
for reds and purples, anthoxanthins, which are that the flavors will be worth the wait. also unlocking the potential of a more stable
reflect yellow, and carotenoids, which In addition to the wait time, actually food system. Monocrop agriculture has
reflect yellow, orange, or red. Each of these growing and harvesting heirloom and been a great way to feed the world, but its
compounds not only carries different flavors, pedigreed grains can be incredibly difficult tolerance to climate change is concerning.
but also different health benefits. When it because modern farming and modern Having a broader genetic base of grains
comes to rye, we don’t have readily available farming equipment are designed to work means we can determine which varietals can
information about the different flavor with common varietals. All of these grains stand up to which climate challenges. And
compounds and the most common flavor are open-pollinated, which means another the biggest winners of these agricultural
compound in common rye is flavones, but threat comes from being cross-pollinated by experiments are the whiskey geeks.

8
 How Brother’s Bond is paving the way for
regenerative agriculture in whiskey production
with its upcoming release

WRITTEN BY BRADLEY WEIR

B
rother’s Bond, the bourbon brand co- also protecting the planet. Now Brother’s Bond is putting
founded by stars of the hit television series its money where its mouth is with its latest release —
The Vampire Diaries, Ian Somerhalder and a regenerative grain whiskey, made with 85 per cent
Paul Wesley, has been a huge success since regeneratively farmed grain.
its foundation. While their initial (albeit “Our regenerative whiskey is something we said we
huge) following has contributed to the early success of would do five years ago to our team, and we’re doing it.
the company, it’s the quality of the bourbon and the It’s pretty special,” says Somerhalder. “The reason why
passion shown by its two creators which has led to its it’s only 85 per cent is because the other 15 per cent
ever-growing presence in the whiskey industry. In fact, of it is rye.
Brother’s Bond is now one of the most-followed whiskey “For the last seven to 10 years, the rye yields in the
brands in the world on Instagram, with more than 1.9 United States have been very very poor. Why? Because of
million followers. The on-screen brothers’ off-screen conventional agriculture.”
bond has also resonated with whiskey lovers across the The team does have a solution to the rye problem,
world who might otherwise have been unfamiliar with however, as Somerhalder continues: “One of the stars of
the duo’s star-making work. [ecological documentary] Common Ground, Rick Clark,
Back in issue 17 of American Whiskey Magazine, around who’s like one of my heroes and one of the most famous
the time of Brother’s Bond’s creation, Wesley alluded the regenerative farmers at this point in the world, is now
brand’s goal of “giving back.” This was in reference to its growing our regenerative organic rye for Brother’s Bond,
mission to give back a portion of proceeds to support as is Gabe Brown. I’m hoping I can grow some rye down
the regenerative farming practices that fundamentally [in] the Chihuahuan desert too with another amazing
alter the way large-scale agriculture is carried out in Mexican regenerative farmer. We’re actually doing it.
the US. Somerhalder also mentioned Kiss the Ground, a We’re putting our money where our mouth is. We are
powerful documentary which highlights the practices’ laying down regenerative grains and we’re gonna put it
importance in maintaining the nation’s farming, and in a barrel.”

10
PRODUCTION Brother’s Bond

11
 In 2023, the docu-series Kiss the Ground
had its follow-up, Common Ground, a
powerful observation of independent
farmers who are implementing these
techniques and educating viewers on how
it benefits everybody, not just those within
the agricultural sector. Somerhalder features
in the documentary once again as well as
serving as a co-producer. Other high-profile
stars involved with the film include Rosario
Dawson, Laura Dern, Donald Glover, Jason
Momoa, and Woody Harrelson. Screenings
are continuing to take place across the
United States.
“One of the things that we launched off
the back of Common Ground is 100 Million
Acres... which is basically getting companies
— and I’m talking big ones, some of the
biggest grain producers in the world — to
commit to changing a portion of their

PREVIOUS PAGES: A bottle of Brother’s Bond first release

FACING PAGE: Paul Wesley and Ian Somerhalder sitting in a grain field

12
 PRODUCTION Brother’s Bond

REGENERATIVE GRAIN
TASTING NOTES
Color: Rich, deep, caramel–amber
Body: Velvety, rich campfire
warmth
Aroma: Dreamy, full of sweetness
and toasted oak
Taste: Campfire marshmallow,
well-seasoned oak firewood,
roasted buttered corn,
vanilla glaze
Finish: Warm to the very soul
Length of finish: Lingering softly,
not to be forgotten
Empty glass: Sublime

13
 THESE PAGES: Ian Somerhalder and Paul Wesley carrying crates
of Brother’s Bond through the fields; A bottle of the upcoming
Regenerative Grain whiskey release

14
 PRODUCTION Brother’s Bond

supply chain to regenerative within the next to the elements, it protects it, increasing the weeds, rather than using weed killer,
couple of years. And that’s really special. biodiversity on the farm as well as for instance.
Because 100 million is soon going to become enhancing water availability and These practices, for the brands that
200 million, and it’s a special time. From a protecting from pests. are jumping on board with regenerative
company standpoint… we were the first ones Third is the avoidance of chemicals. agriculture (Maker’s Mark is another
to say coming out of the gate that we are The use of herbicides, fungicides, and example), will hope to sustain whiskey
building our company around this.” insecticides is strictly forbidden in production for decades to come in a
It’s important when reading about the practices of regenerative farming, manner that doesn’t just produce the
regenerative agriculture to understand and instead, the aforementioned use best types of grain for consumers to
exactly what the practice involves, and why of cover crops can provide many of eventually drink, but also one that
it’s so important, particularly in whiskey the benefits which these are believed will preserve the planet (particularly
production. As Common Ground most simply to offer, including protection from soil) and sustain generations of
explains, the concept can be broken down pests. Chemical interventions whiskey drinkers to come, in a more
into four parts. The first is that regenerative may also harm the soil, leading eco-conscious way. For Wesley
agriculture does not include tillage, a process regenerative farmers such and Somerhalder, the goal is
in which the soil is broken down by using a as Clark — Somerhalder’s to become a legacy brand that
disk or a plow to eliminate weeds and plant farming hero — to believe is a true regenerative spirits
seeds. Instead, a regenerative farmer will they could have a detrimental company. The pair still have big
use specialized equipment to drill seeds impact on the health of the plans for other expressions of
down into the ground directly, leaving both farmers, too. whiskey, but using regenerative
crop residue and plant matter intact on the The final component is grain is going to become the
surface. This method is said to reduce soil planned grazing and the norm for Brother’s Bond in
erosion, improve soil health, and increase use of animal herds to eat the months and years to come.
water retention. weeds and fertilize soil in the The brand’s first release of a
A second important component is the use most natural way. This again regenerative whiskey is a giant
of cover crops, and in particular, different provides benefits without the step in fulfilling the co-founders’
Photos © Brother’s Bond

species of cover crops. The primary role of use of other practices, such goal from the very beginning of
a cover crop is to improve the health of the as chemicals. Regenerative its inception. It could be said
soil and they are planted in between growing farmers believe that it is that Brother’s Bond are saving
seasons. This is imperative as, rather than healthier all around to use a the planet — one whiskey at
allowing the soil to become bare and exposed herd of cattle to eat away at a time.

15
16
 INTERVIEW Jaywalk Rye

Allen Katz discusses the 13-year journey

to resurrecting an heirloom rye for a
groundbreaking whiskey

WRITTEN BY SAILOR GUEVARA

llen Katz opened New York organic vegetable growers in the Finger
Distilling Company in Lakes region of upstate New York. We
Brooklyn with co-founders needed someone to grow grain for us. It
Tom and Bill Potter in 2013, was paramount for us to be distillers and to
forging the modern face of distill our products. There is some joy in not
New York City’s distilling just making the whiskey but also the process
scene. Initially launching of discovering grains and growing grains,
with two American-style gins, mashing, fermenting, blending, and aging
Katz would go on to create award-winning whiskey. And for the latter, you can’t focus
rye whiskey with a historic connection. on blending and creating your distinctive
“We were fortunate when we started profiles until you have inventory to work
the business and developed some key with and, as they say, ‘liquid’ to lips and say,
relationships with local farmers, specifically what do we have here? What is the direction
with Rick Pedersen. Rick and his family are we can go in?” explains Katz.

17
18
 INTERVIEW Jaywalk Rye

Katz shares his excitement at finding Field Race rye. That was the base of our first
what he believes is the perfect farming rye brand, Ragtime Rye, since its inception.
partner: “Pedersen and his family are truly So, we had something to base flavor profiles
professional, experienced generational on and then had our collective experiences
farmers who have worked with grains, so we working with rye whiskey flavors. As soon as
ask their opinion on what they think would we had enough grain to ferment and distill
be interesting.” the Horton rye, it was pretty immediate
One question Katz asked was if there that by the aroma of the new make, we
was a rye with links to New York, that had had something unique to anything we
connections agriculturally or by heritage, had worked with or tasted prior. The fruit
and if so, could he sink into it and be concentration on the nose and the palate
a part of this rediscovery. Katz shares was substantially different. You never know
that Pedersen connected him to another what it will turn into as it matures, but we
important source of information, “So sensed this might be special.”
Pedersen guided us to colleagues of his at the The grain’s size is unique as well, so the
College of Agriculture at Cornell University. sugars in the grain are highly concentrated
Under their advice and research, the folks into a very small head. A reasonable
at Cornell discovered a few varieties of rye assumption is that those sugars are going to
that laid claim to at least a part of their story react differently in both fermentation and
being in geographic New York state. The distillation, and they did. Katz and his team
rediscovery of the Horton rye grain, with were able to compare this new make with
origins that date back to the 1700s, was a what they had done in the past to get a sense
part of this process; it was really through of how different the profile might be from
that collaboration we were able to procure, the rye we are familiar with.
through a seed bank, 10 seeds of Horton rye “For our Ragtime Rye, we were blending
and start to learn about its story.” four-, five-, and six-year-old barrels. We
On understanding the flavor profile of this began tasting the Horton barrels earnestly
rye, Katz explains, “You have to evaluate around two years old. As the whiskey began

PREVIOUS PAGES: Two

bottles of Jaywalk Rye
FACING PAGE: New York
You cross your fingers and hope that when
Distilling Company exterior;
Jaywalk Rye behind the bar spring comes, you see the desired result

the seed itself for its viability. That was the to mature, we started to think about what
first phase of the process, which took several the final results may be, what the branding
years to propagate enough seeds to start a may be, and when we might decide the
field test and then garner enough seeds to whiskey was ready to bottle. And then Covid
do an outdoor field test on acreage and see hit. Like many businesses, we created a
if it would perform. It is a winter rye, so short-term plan for the business to survive
you are planting it after the first fall frost, Covid-19, and of course, it went on longer
germinating under a snowpack throughout than any of us expected. We were grateful
the winter. And then you cross your fingers that our business made it through, and when
and hope that when spring comes, you see we went back to tasting the Horton barrels
the desired result and you can harvest in in earnest, we realized we had something
early to mid-July. That whole process took of real regard that was six and seven years
us about five years, and then we had enough old now. So, by purpose or fortune, we
grain to begin mashing and distilling. So had something really spectacular in those
essentially, it’s a two-part process, getting barrels. I was glad we had to wait for this
the grain up to viability in a reasonable whiskey.”
volume and then beginning to distill.” Shortly after Katz and Pedersen began
Katz says, “Discovering the flavors of the process of resurrecting the Horton rye
the Horton rye was both immediate and a grain, there was a designation created in
Photos © Gabi Porter

long discovery process. Fortunately, we had 2015 by six New York distillers who came
previously worked with Farmer Pedersen together to pay homage to the state’s rye
and his family on our unique hybrid of a field history and establish a distinctive whiskey
race rye, which we lovingly call Pedersen style. Then came the Empire Rye Whiskey

19
FACING PAGES: A bottle of Jaywalk
Rye; Local farmer Rick Pedersen

20
 INTERVIEW Jaywalk Rye

Association, which created a set of standards

that a producer must meet to label their
whiskey ‘Empire Rye’. Those standards are
similar to the standards of bourbon whiskey
in that you must meet specific criteria to
use the statement on a bottle of bourbon.
To claim a whiskey is an Empire Rye, the
standards say how much of the rye grain
used in the whiskey must be grown in New
York state. The mash bill must be 75 per cent
New York state-grown raw or malted rye, the
distillation proof no more than 160 proof,
aged for a minimum of two years in charred
new oak barrels, and barrel entry proof of no
more than 115 proof. The whiskey must be
mashed, fermented, distilled, and aged at a
single distillery in New York state. A blended
whiskey containing no less than 100 per
cent qualifying Empire Rye whiskeys from
multiple distilleries may be called Blended
Empire Rye.
“We adore the story of the rye; we love
that collectively, we resurrected an heirloom
grain, but we are 100 per cent about the
flavor,” said Katz.
For a distillery that only makes rye
whiskey, Katz believes there is a lot of work
to do on educating the consumer on the
diversity in the profiles of rye whiskey. “Not
all rye whiskey is spicy; not all rye whiskey
is dry. The Horton is a great example; it has
a different caramelized sugar context that
gives off an aroma of ripe peach or apricot.
There is some floral honey on the nose that
bucks the spicy assumption. On the palate,
we get tropical fruit flavors,” Katz says.
When asked whether these flavors may
primarily result from a different yeast strain
or from the Horton grain, Katz explains that
for the Jaywalk Rye whiskey, they use the
same yeast as their Ragtime Rye whiskey, so
he believes it’s the unique concentration of
sugars in the Horton rye grain that results in
such unique flavors.
“We like to daydream about what whiskey
may have tasted like historically; we also
like to look at how to incorporate traditional
aspects of cinnamon and white pepper
that might be found in rye whiskey into
the Horton rye,” says Katz. Continuing
to emphasize his commitment to flavor
first and being less concerned about age
statements, Katz notes, “The oldest barrels
we have right now of Horton rye are about
eight years old. So we might continue to age
that whiskey, but ultimately, it comes down
to flavor and finding that sweet spot. We
are exploring how seasons have affected the
maturation process and changed the flavor
profile, so that analysis is ongoing.”
The future looks bright for Jaywalk Rye.

21
22
 PRODUCTION Hybrid Grains

WRITTEN BY SUSAN REIGLER

Tailoring
Grains
Examining the importance of grain development

M
any whiskey distilleries throughout the
United States make a point of sourcing their
grains from local farmers, which has multiple
benefits. It helps keep shipping costs lower.
It financially supports area farmers. Perhaps
most importantly, heirloom or hybrid grains particular to a
location can give a bourbon, rye, or malt whiskey a distinctive
geographical signature.
For example, Balcones Distilling of Waco, Texas uses
heirloom blue corn grown in central Texas near the distillery.
The bourbons and ryes from J Henry & Sons of Dane,
Wisconsin are all made using heirloom corn and rye grown
on the family’s farm in south-central Wisconsin. And in a
departure from more traditional ingredients, Six & Twenty
Distillery in Greensville, South Carolina uses its state’s
signature grain, Carolina golden rice, in its 5-Grain Bourbon.
Since the early 2000s, Woodford Reserve in Kentucky has
gotten all of its corn from Langley Farms in Shelby County,
about 30 miles from the distillery. Like other Kentucky
bourbon makers, Woodford has gotten its rye from elsewhere,
because that grain, while growing well in the state, does not
produce the quality of grain needed to make whiskey.

23
 PREVIOUS PAGES: The grain
harvest in Kentucky
FACING PAGE: David Van
Sanford, professor of plant
and soil sciences at the
University of Kentucky;
Harvesting wheat at Star
Hill Farm, the home of
Maker’s Mark

Rye of the quality needed for whiskey Shriner explained that her university has Kentucky. Ohnmacht explains that there
distillation grows best in latitudes farther a 15-gallon still in which student researchers are climatic factors that make the use of
north than Kentucky’s. Dr Nicole Shriner can do test distillations for flavor from the Kentucky-grown rye in bourbon problematic.
of Michigan State University is involved in varietals being grown. In addition to flavor, “The problem is that you [in Kentucky]
research on improving the quality of the yield is monitored. have to be really careful from a fungal
grain for distillers, as she explained at the “Yields have varied quite drastically,” said perspective. The hot humid summers
James B Beam Institute Industry Conference Shriner, “from 22 to 110 bushels per acre, promote the growth of ergot. There’s also a
at the University of Kentucky in March of depending on the variety, the year, and the problem with goesmin. And the seeds that
this year. location. And hybrids have been yielding a lot most rye sets in Kentucky are too hard and
“Our objectives are to look at the yield more than the open-pollinated varieties. One unusable for fermentation.”
and quality of the available rye varieties of the most interesting things to pull out of Ergot is a black fungus that can grow
in the [whiskey] industry. To investigate this is that we have predicted relationships on and contaminate rye. Consuming it
and to enhance management practices and between grain yield, spirit yield protein, and is harmful to both humans and animals.
determine these practices on yield and [compounds involved in flavor].” Goesmin is a substance also promoted by
quality, and potentially, flavor. We’ve looked While the Michigan State research is of humidity with an earthy odor like dirt —
at 26 different cereal rye varieties, both open importance and interest throughout the obviously not the kind of flavor notes that
pollinated and hybrids.” industry, it is obviously the distilleries in the distillers want in their whiskey. Nonetheless,
Open pollinated means that plants are Great Lakes region that can buy it and tout there is research being conducted to develop
pollinated by insects, birds, or in the case their use of ‘locally sourced grain’. Outside of rye hybrids or varietals that could yield grain
of grasses, including grains, by wind. The where rye grows well, that is only the case on Kentucky distilleries could use.
vast majority of the time, seed will begin a limited basis. Woodford Reserve’s master distiller
to develop only if a plant is fertilized by Felicia Ohnmacht and her sister, Elizabeth McCall says that the Dendrifund, a
compatible pollen from the same species. The Stephanie, are experts at working with non-profit seed fund created in partnership
resulting new generation will be the same farmers near distilleries to source local grains with Woodford’s parent company Brown-
as the parent plants. Hybrids are chosen for through their Colorado-based company Forman and members of the Brown family,
specific characteristics to combine or amplify Whiskey Sisters Supply. They have also is involved in an initiative called Bring Back
traits such as fast growth or large seeds. recently started working with farmers in Kentucky Rye. McCall serves on its board.

24
 PRODUCTION Hybrid Grains

“It’s really exciting and really focused in Currently there is at least one rye that is Humphrey explains that every year a handful
on the research. Woodford Reserve’s role suitable for fermentation and distillation — are chosen to grow in closer proximity to the
in this work is to bring Kentucky rye back but there’s a catch. According to McCall, “A distillery and are then used in experimental
for commercial use. That’s the big piece. It’s usable rye variety needs to be open sourced, mash bills.
cereal rye for commercial use, but right now so it can be widely available.” She said that Dr David Van Sanford of the University
it’s encouraged to use as a cover crop, which currently a hybrid exists that produces a of Kentucky is leading the research at Star
prevents erosion. Having it go to seed is a quality rye in Kentucky, “But somebody Hill Farm, where he and his students look
major challenge and then just harvesting it is owns the rights to that grain, so you can’t at several variables that can affect the
a challenge. What do you do with the straw?” grow it and then harvest the seed and sell it.” wheat, especially the red winter wheat used
That said, McCall is optimistic. Wheat, the other common flavoring in Maker’s Mark. These include effects of
“Woodford’s role is that we’ve committed grain for bourbon, is also getting attention climate change on growth, prevention of
to producing whiskey using Kentucky- in Kentucky. Not because it is difficult to infection by fusarium fungi that can produce
grown rye as part of the research and grow, but because, again, of how yield and toxins and ruin a crop, and studying the
understanding,” she explains. “How are there flavor can be improved. Maker’s Mark, which genome to measure how nitrogen is taken up
differences when it comes to production and famously uses a wheated recipe bourbon, is from the soil by the wheat.
how does it work in our production facilities, at the forefront of that research. Humphrey emphasizes, “We’re really
and then does it produce a different flavor? “We are one of the only working farm celebrating Mother Nature being the flavor
We are working with the University of distilleries in Kentucky, meaning that we’re maker because traditionally with American
Kentucky and with four farmers in different a working farm as well as a still house and a whiskeys, you talk about the brand and
regions of the state who are finding out production facility. For about the last seven production. People haven’t talked about the
when’s the best time [to] plant and then years or so, we’ve been growing different raw material and the farmers and the climate
Photos © Suntory Global Spirits

harvest. The end goal of this is to have a varietals of... wheat and barley on site at Star that the grains grow in. Over the next
handbook that we can give to farmers or Hill Farm [the Maker’s Mark campus],” says couple of years, you’re really going to see
anybody who’s interested in Kentucky-grown Amanda Humphrey, the distillery’s advocacy the importance of this brought to light, to
rye and let them know there’s a guidebook and experiences manager. see just exactly where the flavor comes from
on how you grow it [and] how it can be At present about 30 different varietals with these grains and how they fit into the
attractive for the end user.” of wheat are being cultivated at Maker’s. rest of the production process.”

25
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 Raiising a glass to New Riff Distillingg on
10 years in the whiskey busineess

WRITTEN BY MAGGIE KIMBERL

n 2010, Ken Lewis owned the Party something new to add to his legacy. He
Source, one of the largest liquor didn’t start the distillery with the intention
stores in the United States. It was of selling it and moving on.
located in Northern Kentucky, not “It’s our mission statement to become
even a mile from Cincinnati. He’d one of the great small distilleries of the
been in the business more than four world, which clearly is a multi-decade or
decades at that point, and as the longer project,” he says. “Tradition within
spirits buyer for the store, he started innovation within tradition, a new riff on
to notice a marked uptick in bourbon this wonderful old tradition that we are now
sales. As an entrepreneurial person, he a part of. And that was always our mission,
came up with the then-crazy idea to start and that remains our mission today.”
the New Riff Distillery, and take his decades Early on, Lewis and his team were keen
of experience in the spirits business in the to innovate within the American whiskey
direction of production. landscape. They were early to the use of
“It was clear that with the boom going pedigreed grains from the Ohio River Valley
on in Lexington and Louisville, here’s region, including Balboa rye, and they were
Greater Cincinnati, two and a half times the early to the use of a malted rye, an old
metro area of Louisville, and not one single category that has nearly been forgotten.
distillery,” Lewis recalls. “There’s opportunity “We’ve come out this year with an eight-
there. I didn’t realize at the time how to nine-year-old American single malt
involved it was going to be and how large a whiskey,” Lewis says. “Obviously, in order to
project it would be.” do that, that meant that eight or nine years
The first order of business was to sell the ago, we had begun a very large project of
Party Source to his employees, as industry creating six single malt whiskey mash bills.
regulations prevent people from owning And those things, along with other projects,
more than one tier of the three-tier system: are all about creating a portfolio of truly
production, distribution, and sales. Lewis interesting, great, a little bit cutting-edge,
was excited at the prospect of creating but not-too-crazy whiskeys.”

28
DISTILLERY FOCUS Ne
Neww Riiff

29
 Co-founder and global brand ambassador Bohemian Wheat Bourbon made with
Jay Erisman often talks about discovering multiple varietals of malted and unmalted
Balboa rye. A local farmer who was growing wheat in 2023.
corn was also growing Balboa rye, but was Even the brand’s sour mash single malts
tilling it under before maturation, a common make use of pedigreed barleys and barley
use of rye in the Ohio River Valley. Erisman malts with different roasts and other flavor
asked him to grow it to harvest, bought all of characteristics. The team has experimented
it, distilled it, and created one of New Riff’s with at least five single malt recipes: SMP1
most popular products from it: New Riff was made from Maris Otter malt; SMP2 with
Balboa Rye Whiskey. He’s also found corn Golden Promise malt; SMP3 was a barley
varietals native to the area by working with wine-style malt whiskey; SMP4 was a dark,
local farmers on a quest to bring new flavors heavy Belgian quadrupel single malt; and
into whiskey. SMP5 was made with Scottish peated malt.
Erisman knew that he wanted New Riff These have gone into various casks including
to have an emphasis on rye, as he and the new, used, recharred, uncharred and toasted,
team loved the spicy note it could bring to and various wine barrels. These widely varied
their whiskey. New Riff’s bourbon mash bill styles of American single malt have been
is high in rye, and they make both a 95/5 blended in different ways to come up with
rye whiskey mash bill as well as a 100 per each new American single malt and blended
cent malted rye mash bill. Charles Fogg malt product, with more to come.
in Greensburg, Indiana is the farmer that Over the last decade, New Riff has
the distillery predominantly works with expanded production as much as its
to source grains, and he was trained by footprint will allow. The distillery started off
Seagram’s scientists to produce the best and with four fermenters and, after the first year,
cleanest grains for whiskey production. a contract distillation client lent the money
New Riff has also experimented with to add two more. Then, in 2022, an addition
wheat, releasing a wheated bourbon made was built to accommodate three more. At the
from Red Turkey wheat in 2021 and a same time, the third-floor event space, which

I didn’t realize at the time...how large

a project it would be

PREVIOUS PAGES: A bottle of New Riff, aged eight years once held weddings, was renovated into a
THESE PAGES, CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: New Riff
Distillery exterior; The Aquifer tasting room; New Riff still whiskey library and cocktail bar open to the
column; A bottle of New Riff Red Turkey Wheat public during normal business hours.
“In Kentucky, we have a bit of an arms
race, which is fantastic in terms of visitor
experiences,” Lewis explains. “It’s wonderful
for the industry and for the Kentucky
Bourbon Trail, which I’m very involved with.
We went through a $3 million rebuild in both
the visitor center and the Aquifer Bar. We
took out the event center, which had become
a wedding destination primarily. We’ve put
in a really beautiful upscale tasting room,
not trying to be a bar and compete with our
on-premise customers, we close at 7 or 8pm
at night.”
Lewis announced his retirement last year
and has been busy transitioning the business
to its new leadership, which includes his
daughter Mollie Lewis, the company’s
president, and Hannah Lowen, CEO.
“I feel really great about what has been
accomplished by a wonderful team of
people here at New Riff,” Lewis says. “I have

30
 DISTILLERY FOCUS Ne
Neww Riiffff

tremendous confidence in our leadership

team. I’m very pleased with the quality of
the whiskey that’s coming out, its reception,
and how well we’re doing with all our direct-
to-consumer aspects. There’s actually very
few at our size that are going to be able to
remain independent of the pressures of
the marketplace. I am concerned about
the market in general, but I like New Riff’s
positioning for what is an increasingly
competitive environment out there.”
New Riff’s official 10th anniversary is on
June 24, but between July 11 and 21, there
will be ‘anniversary week’ celebrations each
day at the distillery and in the Aquifer Bar.
Most of the special events and releases will
be announced the day before, or the day
of, via New Riff’s social media channels.
There will be 10th anniversary-branded
merchandise available in the gift shop and
a special 10th anniversary logo, as well as
Photos © New Riff

surprise food and beverage partners in the

Aquifer Bar.
The celebrations will also see the launch

31
THESE PAGES, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Mollie Lewis (left)
and Hannah Lowen (right); Bottles of New Riff Single Barrel;
The new tasting room; New Riff rickhouse

32
DISTILLERY FOCUS Ne
Neww Riiffff

of an annual release called Headliner, which

will be a different product each year. Each
release will feature a unique screen-printed
label, along with a screen-printed poster,
and a portion of the proceeds from sales will
go to local charities. This year’s Headliner
will be a blend of three different whiskeys:
a 10-year-old bourbon, a nine-year-old rye,
and an eight-year-old malt whiskey. Fewer
than 1,000 bottles will be available through
a lottery system that opens on June 24 and
will cost $5 per entry with lottery proceeds
going to this year’s three charitable partners:
Brighton Center, Horizon Community Fund,
and Green Umbrella.
After a decade of innovation and a general
new riff on whiskey, where does Ken Lewis
hope to see New Riff Distillery in a decade
from now?
“My dream would be that we are sticking
to our guns, sticking to our mission
statement,” he says. “The most wonderful
thing is that we have always kept 25 to 35
per cent of everything we make back to get
older, which is an economic challenge, but
we’ve always done it because we believe what
our future is all about is our reputation. It’s
going to be mostly about our older products
and our very interesting specialties, which
enumerated a couple of them. Watching
those come to fruition over the next 10
years will tell the tale. And I think it’s going
to be a really nice story of family-owned,
independent distilleries sticking to their
guns here in Kentucky — not taking in
outside money and not selling itself, just
being absolutely determined to make
the best possible whiskey and market it
successfully and let things happen in an
organic manner.”
Be sure to follow New Riff on social media
for announcements about anniversary week
in July, which will include a number of
distillery-only events and product releases.

Detroit
Toledo

Fort Wayne
Peoria
OHIO
ILLINOIS INDIANAPOLIS
SPRINGFIELD COLUMBUS
INDIANA New Riff
Cincinnati
St Louis FRANKFORT
Evansville Louisville Lexington

KENTUCKY
Clarksville

NASHVILLE Knoxville
Murfreesboro
TENNESSEE Asheville

33
 The Ideal
Bartender Experience
How Evan Williams tour guide George
Harrison is honouring the legacy of African
American bartender Tom Bullock

WRITTEN BY MAGGIE KIMBERL

om Bullock was an African American Street, blocks away from where Bullock
bartender who was born in Louisville, worked when he wrote his book.
Kentucky in 1872. He worked at “There’s not really a lot of written history
the Pendennis Club in Louisville for a time about him, which we discovered when we
before moving on to work at a country started putting the show together back in
club in St Louis and then as a porter on the 2020,” says Harrison. “By about 1927 or
railroad, but his claim to fame is that he 1928, he sort of disappeared from a lot of
wrote one of the first bartending manuals written history. We do know he was born in
in history, The Ideal Bartender. Today, Evan Louisville in 1872. We know that both of his
Williams tour guide George Harrison parents were former slaves, and his father
reenacts the Ideal Bartender Experience was actually a former Union soldier. We
several times a week for visitors at the Evan know that he did work in Louisville at the
Williams Bourbon Experience on Main Pendennis Club, and we know that he moved

34
COCKTAILS The Ideal Bartender Experience

35
on to St Louis and worked at the St Louis While today it might seem obvious to which is a lot when you think about it,”
Country Club. We know that he did work have cocktails and food recipes alongside Harrison continues. “The interesting thing
for a while on the railroads in the Pullman each other, the reasoning behind it about that is that all of those recipes are his.
cars as a porter. There’s not a lot of other during Bullock’s time had more to do with He didn’t go around cribbing recipes from
real strong detail about what he actually did. respectability politics. other people and putting them into his own
He never married, so he didn’t have kids or “There were a lot of cookbooks that cocktail book. I found that to be kind of
anything like that. And we do know that he highlighted African American cooking, and remarkable. There’s not a lot about specific
passed away in 1964.” part of that was the cocktails or alcoholic technique; it’s really about the recipes
At the time when Bullock was working as a drinks,” Harrison says. “One of the reasons themselves. Within a recipe, he might talk
bartender, there were not really professional that they didn’t talk a lot about drinking is about how to do something, you know,
standards or standard cocktail recipes, and because at the time, one of the things that this is how you should slice something. But
even cocktail books looked a little different was supposed to be not a good situation there’s not a huge amount of technique that
than we know them today. The book, The is that African Americans were, well, we he talks about in there.”
Ideal Bartender, was THE bartender’s manual were portrayed as being lazy and drinking a Harrison found additional information
for a long time in the bartending community. lot, which really wasn’t the case, but that’s about Tom Bullock in another book that his
“He was the first Black man to write a how we were portrayed. Many folks in their wife gifted to him, Juke Joints, Jazz Clubs,
cocktail book and he wrote and published it cookbooks didn’t want to talk a lot about and Juice: A Cocktail Recipe Book by Toni
in 1917,” Harrison explains. “That was one cocktails and drinks because they didn’t Tipton-Martin. Each section of that book
of the things that got Andy and I going on want to reinforce that already negative details the historical context of how and
trying to put together this show. There were stereotype that was out there.” why things were being done the way they
other folks not too long after that who were Bullock’s book was unique in that it was were at the time, which gave Harrison some
putting out some cocktail books. A lot of the only about cocktails, which could have easily additional direction for how to portray the
cocktail books actually at the time weren’t been because he expected that only other character he modeled after Tom Bullock.
cocktail books per se, and a lot of them were bartenders would have an interest in his As Harrison discovers more information
from African Americans, and the cocktails book at the time. about Bullock or the historical context in
were part of cookbooks.” “There are about 170 recipes in his book, which he lived, he tries to incorporate that

36
 COCKTAILS The Ideal Bartender Experience

PREVIOUS PAGES: Outside

of the Bourbon Experience
FACING PAGE: Shining a light
on an Evan Williams barrel;
A selfie in front of a model
glass of whiskey and ice

COCKTAILS

Tom Bullock’s Old Fashioned Heaven Hill Bottled-in-Bond Boulevardier

• 1 lump of ice • 1.25oz Heaven Hill Bottled-in-Bond
• 2 dashes Angostura bitters • 1oz Campari
• 1 lump of sugar and dissolve in water • 0.75oz sweet vermouth
• 1.5 jiggers of bourbon whiskey • Orange swath

Twist a piece of lemon skin over the drink and Combine ingredients in a mixing glass with ice and stir
drop it in. Stir well and serve. until chilled. Strain into a rocks glass over a large ice
cube. Garnish with orange swath.

37
into his Ideal Bartender program at the Evan a show that has African Americans at the cocktail from Bullock’s book, often rumored
Williams Experience. bar who are part of the group, virtually all to be the original Old Fashioned cocktail
“I talk a little bit about working on the the time when I get done, I ask people for invented at the Pendennis Club in Louisville.
Pullman cars as a porter and how those were questions, and they all want to talk to me The cocktail is followed by a guided tasting of
good jobs for African Americans,” Harrison about Tom Bullock. And I’ve had, I think Heaven Hill whiskeys and further discussion
explains. “They actually did fairly well in it’s probably twice in the three years of doing about Bullock. The program has proven to
terms of what they were paid. A lot of the the show, where I had a gentleman come up be extremely popular, and often sells out
folks who were doing that, they were working to me after the show and he said, ‘I was really weeks in advance. It seems that whiskey
hard, making some decent money, and most happy to hear you talk about working on enthusiasts always want to know more about
of it was going home to their families.” the Pullman cars.’ He said, ‘My grandfather Tom Bullock.
Because working-class African American did that.’” “He was strong and smart and well read,
history was not always documented as Even though Tom Bullock’s name is well which is how he did what he did in writing
meticulously as white owner-class history, known in Louisville and among bartenders, a cocktail book,” Harrison says. “That’s the
a lot of Tom Bullock’s life is unknown, and neither of the places he tended bar in his biggest thing. That’s why we even remember
Harrison fills in the blanks with general lifetime, the Pendennis Club and the St him to this day, because of his cocktail
history of the time period. He’s always Louis Country Club, had any information book and having such an impact on a lot
adding historical context to his show and the about his time working there, Harrison of different people. I mean, I love the fact
character he has created for it. says. But he has managed to pull together a that GH Walker wrote the introduction
“One of the reasons I dress in the costume compelling cocktail experience at the Evan for Bullock’s book. And GH Walker is the
I wear — I have a red vest and a red bow Williams Bourbon Experience, hosted in the grandfather and great-grandfather of
tie, a nice, cuffed shirt with nice cufflinks speakeasy each week on Thursday and Friday George HW Bush and George W Bush. The
in them, and a white apron — I wear that at 11:45am, 1:45pm, and 3:45 pm. introduction he wrote is glowing. Bullock
because people really connect with it,” During the show, Harrison talks about was a person who had that kind of impact on
Harrison says. “Interestingly, when I do Bullock’s life and makes the Old Fashioned people. That, to me, is remarkable.”

COCKTAILS

Elijah Craig Old Fashioned Larceny Paper Plane

• 2oz Elijah Craig Small Batch • 0.75oz Larceny Bourbon
• 0.25oz simple syrup • 0.75oz Aperol
• 3 dashes bitters • 0.75oz Amaro Nonino Quintessentia
• Orange swath • 0.75oz fresh lemon juice
• Brandied cherry (optional)

In a mixing glass, add bitters, simple syrup, Combine all ingredients in a shaker. Add ice and shake
Elijah Craig Small Batch, and ice. Stir until well until well chilled. Strain the cocktail into a chilled coupe
chilled. Strain the cocktail over a large ice cube glass. Garnish with a paper plane (optional).
in a double Old Fashioned glass. Garnish with
a brandied cherry and swath of orange.

38
 WRITTEN BY MAGGIE KIMBERL

Addressing the various myths surrounding

bourbon and cigar pairings

The reason I began studying bourbon and hear about pairing bourbons and cigars, there are
cigar pairings is because, without fail, every time many more to address. Another common myth is
I asked a cigar bar bartender or a cigar lounge that you need to pick the most expensive bourbon
tobacconist, I would always get the same response: and the most expensive cigar to go together. In
if you are smoking a full-bodied cigar, pair it with reality, price tag rarely comes into play when looking
a full-bodied bourbon, and if you are smoking for an enjoyable pairing. Flavor, complexity, cigar
a light-bodied cigar, pair it with a light-bodied wrappers, mash bills, and even an individual’s
bourbon. I eventually figured out where this sensory memories all come into play before price
advice originated. Typically when a patron asks tags. I will often hear people say they are going
a tobacconist for a cigar recommendation, the to go to a cigar bar and order the most expensive
tobacconist will ask them what kind of beverage bourbon and the most expensive cigar to celebrate
they like. For people who drink espresso or black a promotion, but I often try to intervene and let
coffee, they will recommend a full-bodied cigar. For them know that they will have a more enjoyable
people who like fruity drinks or sugary sodas, they experience if they try to pair a cigar they like
will recommend a lighter-bodied cigar. Without with a flight of bourbons with different flavor
thinking about how these flavors would interact, profiles to see which one they enjoy the best. I
they began recommending full-bodied cigars surprise myself often with pairings. Sometimes,
with full-bodied bourbons, which just doesn’t a $7 cigar goes best with a $150 whiskey, and vice
work. You should be looking for complementary versa. Once, I pulled a $1,500 event-only Arturo
flavor profiles and balance in pairings. Fuente cigar out of my humidor and got to work
While this is one of the most pervasive myths I looking for a bourbon to pair with it. I tried

40
 CIGARS & WHISKEY Debunking Myths

an Old Fitzgerald bottled-in-bond, Four Roses not mix. When you add a few drops of water to
Yellow Label, and Jim Beam Black Label. While your whiskey, you will notice it becomes slightly
they were all great pairings, the Jim Beam Black cloudy, just for a moment. This is the alcohol
Label, a $25 bottle, was the one that paired best molecules sucking up the water molecules. Now
with this expensive limited-edition cigar. As much imagine what alcohol does to a cigar. If you dip
as I understand the urge to splurge on a special it, it will dry out the cigar. If you put whiskey in
occasion, don’t sell yourself short on enjoyment. your humidification devices in your humidor,
The next myth that I see all too often is that it will dry out your cigars. If you try to infuse a
cigars need to be dipped, sprayed, or otherwise cigar with whiskey, it will dry it out. And while
infused with whiskey flavor. The complementary artificial flavoring doesn’t carry this risk, it’s also
whiskey myth is that a whiskey needs to be not very good. It’s best to find a cigar and whiskey
somehow tobacco infused. In reality, each that you enjoy together on their own merits.
of these things should stand on their own All you need to know about pairing cigars and
merits. What’s more, ingesting tobacco can whiskey is that everyone is going to like something
be deadly, so I recommend staying away from different, it’s best to pick a flight
whiskeys and cocktails that have some sort of of whiskeys with different
tobacco infusion just to be on the safe side. flavor profiles to
When it comes to the cigars themselves, it’s experiment with, and
important to remember that cigars like to be the only bad pairing
kept at around 68 per cent humidity, and also is one that you don’t
that alcohol is hydrophilic, two things that do enjoy. Happy pairing!

41
WHERE TO SMOKE

CLUB MACANUDO
26 E 63RD ST
NEW YORK, NY 10065
(212) 752-8200
CLUBMACANUDO.COM

If you’re looking for an elegant place to

have a lunch or dinner meeting and a
cigar right in the heart of Manhattan
without a membership requirement,
Club Mac is a great option. There is a
strict dress code here — collared shirts
for men and no athletic wear or athletic BELLO NATURAL ROBUSTO FERIO TEGO TIMELESS
shoes — as well as a cutting fee for AND NEW RIFF BLUE CLARAGE PRESTIGE HERMOSO AND
those bringing in outside cigars. There’s BOURBON MIDDLE WEST OLOROSO
a full bar and a full menu. But even if FINISHED WHEAT WHISKEY
you just want to purchase a cigar and This 5x50 cigar made by the Cuba Tobacco
enjoy the lounge, there are comfortable Cigar Company located in Miami, Florida This 5.5x54 cigar features a wrapper from
couches and chairs as well as televisions was manufactured either in Miami or Esteli, Honduras, binder from the Dominican
on which to watch sporting events. The Nicaragua, though the exact location is Republic, and fillers from both the
bar service is highly professional, and not disclosed. It has a Connecticut shade Dominican Republic and Nicaragua, six
the cocktails are top notch. In addition wrapper and the binder and filler are also tobaccos in total. It is manufactured in
to a full selection of Macanudo cigars, not disclosed — information about this the Dominican Republic under direction
there are 130 brands offered including small brand is scarce. Predominant notes from Ferio Tego, headed by former Nat
Cohiba, Partagas, La Gloria Cubana, are of cedar, white pepper, and vanilla pod. Sherman vice president Michael Herklots.
Punch, and more as well as humidors When paired with the New Riff Blue Clarage Predominant notes are café au lait, cedar,
and other cigar accessories. Bourbon, the cigar brings out a sweet and clove. When paired with the Middle
viscosity with pops of cinnamon candy in West Oloroso Finished Wheat Whiskey, the
the bourbon, while the bourbon brings out cigar brings out baking spice and stone fruit
coffee and black pepper notes in the cigar. in the whiskey, while the whiskey brings out
espresso and highlights the cedar notes in
the cigar.

42
 CIGARS & WHISKEY Debunking Myths

WHERE TO SMOKE

TELFORD’S PIPE & CIGAR

664 REDWOOD HIGHWAY
FRONTAGE RD
MILL VALLEY, CA 94941
(415) 388-0440
TELFORDSPIPEANDCIGAR.COM

Located in an unassuming building on

the outskirts of San Francisco, Telford’s
is a cigar lounge with one of the largest
collections of pipes anywhere, and
certainly the largest selection of pipes
PARTAGAS VALLE VERDE SHADY MOOSE TORO AND and cigars in the Bay area. In addition to
DOUBLE CORONA AND OLD DOMINICK STRAIGHT estate pipes and an immense selection
SQUARE 6 HIGH RYE WHISKEY TENNESSEE WHISKEY of cigar accessories, there are also
thousands of cigars to choose from.
This 7.5x54 cigar is manufactured in This 6x52 cigar is manufactured in Cigar brands include hard-to-find
Honduras and features a San Andres Natural Honduras and features an Ecuadorian brands like Ferio Tego, limited-edition
wrapper, Cameroon binder, and Mexican Connecticut wrapper, Mexican binder, Arturo Fuente Opus X and Añejo, and
San Andres, Esteli Ligero, and Nicaraguan and fillers from Colombia, the Dominican discontinued Nat Shermans. There is
Jalapa fillers. This is an excellent example of Republic, Nicaragua, and the United States, also a large selection of TAA-only special
a milder wrapper being paired with bold and as well as tobaccos from five countries. releases from numerous manufacturers.
spicy binders and fillers to create a pleasant Predominant notes include campfire and There’s a lounge complete with private
surprise for the smoker. Predominant notes forest earthiness with a hint of sweetness. lockers for members as well as a pipe
are milk chocolate, black pepper, and freshly When paired with the Old Dominick club, the Golden Gate Pipe Club, which
cut wood. When paired with the Square Tennessee Whiskey, the cigar brings out meets every second Sunday from
6 High Rye Whiskey, the cigar brings out green apples, caramel, and cinnamon in 3–5pm. The pipe tobacco selection
candy apple and baking spice in the whiskey, the whiskey, while the whiskey brings out includes dozens of options. Telford’s
while the whiskey brings out earthy herbal cedar and white pepper in the cigar. This is is open seven days a week from
notes and white pepper in the cigar. a great-value cigar for smokers looking for a 10am to 6pm.
great cigar that does not break the bank.

43
 On a quest to find new flavors in rye whiskey

WRITTEN BY MAGGIE KIMBERL

44
PRODUCTION Pedigreed Ryes

T
wo decades ago, the only
American rye whiskeys on the
market were Kentucky-style
(also known as accountant’s
ryes, because of the minimal
rye content and high corn content), and
a 95/5 rye, made by a former Seagram’s
plant known today as Midwest Grain
Products, which was primarily used as
a blending agent for Canadian whiskey.
Jimmy Russell began to joke 10 years ago
that demand for Wild Turkey’s rye whiskey
had grown so much that the distillery had
to double its production — from one day
a year to two. The rise of cocktail culture
brought rye whiskey back to the forefront,
and visionaries such as Redemption Rye
co-founder Dave Schmier began purchasing
that 95/5 MGP rye whiskey and selling it as
a standalone product. WhistlePig Rye, first
sourced and later distilled by WhistlePig
after opening a distillery in Vermont in
2015, was a 100 per cent rye. Clearly, the
market was clamoring for the bold spiciness
of rye whiskeys with high rye contents.
But just as a quest for bolder flavor led
bartenders and mixologists to rye whiskey,
the rising popularity of rye whiskey led
whiskey makers to once-popular, some
nearly extinct, varietals of rye grains for
making whiskey.
“It was important to bring Rosen rye back
to Michigan because Michigan is literally
home for the variety,” says Mammoth
Distilling founder Chad Munger. “There are
compelling new things being done with rye
varietals in distilling today, including the
return of Rosen to east coast growers and
distillers, which we think is very exciting.
But the history of this varietal is written in
the archives of Michigan State University, in
20th-century newspapers and magazines, in
the distilling manuals of some of the biggest
distillers of the mid-1900s, and on bottles
of the most widely known brands of the
era. If there is a more well-documented or

45
 THESE PAGES, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Danko rye field;
Danko rye used at Kings County; Bottles of Still Austin
Straight Rye; The team at Mammoth Distilling

46
 PRODUCTION Pedigreed Ryes

compelling history of a distillers’ grain, I’d The crop grows to about 8ft tall and, once
love to see it. Michigan has emerged as harvested, farmers leave the plant
a truly progressive place to be a distiller residue in the fields to help collect and
and a rye grower.” trap rainwater in the soil for the next
The story of Rosen rye, as Munger season’s planting. This conserves water
points out, begins in Michigan at by cutting down on the need to irrigate,
Michigan Agricultural College with Dr saving Texas aquifers from depleting.”
Frank Spragg, who was tasked with Typically in American agriculture,
crop improvement and asked a student, rye is planted as a winter cover
Joseph Rosen, exiled from Russia crop and tilled under before spring
by the Czar, to have his father mail planting. This prevents soil erosion,
some rye seeds from their homeland. adds nitrogen to the soil, and leaves
A Seagram’s distilling manual from biomass behind to enrich the soil.
the middle of the 1900s named There are many reasons why rye is
Rosen specifically as the preferred not grown to maturity. It is prone to
varietal of rye for distilling, but fungal infections such as ergot
by the 1970s it had basically and lodging because the thin
gone extinct. As whiskey has stalks can struggle to hold up
grown in popularity, whiskey the grainy heads when they are
producers have realized they wet. Outside of the distilling
have an opportunity to explore industry, there is not a lot
new flavors by researching the of demand for rye grain, and
historical agriculture from their when it’s fermented, there are
own backyards. often issues with stickiness
“Initially we experimented and foaming.
with a few different rye varieties “Organic AC Hazlet rye
— all of which are grown in has been a darling for us, not
Texas,” says Still Austin CEO just in flavor, but in process,”
Chris Seals. “We wanted to says Tamworth Distilling head
evaluate the flavors each variety distiller Jamie Oakes. “Rye
produces. We chose Brasetto rye gets a reputation for being a
because of its delicious flavor, [so-called] problem grain. Beta-
which contributes round spice glucans can clog up the process
and fruit notes to the whiskey. with higher head retention
We also liked its sustainability. during fermentation and the

47
dreaded boil-over or bumping of the still. wasn’t being produced in the northeast, so
These can be mitigated in even the worst far as I can tell, since the closure of Michter’s
offenders, but AC Hazlet has been really in the 1990s. [That was] until Dad’s Hat
forgiving from the get-go. Its ease of process started distilling again in Pennsylvania,
is one of the many attributes we love. That’s initiating a wave of distillers trying to bring
why our Chocorua rye uses 100 per cent rye back to Pennsylvania, Maryland, and
organic AC Hazlet. A good chunk of it is New York. Every bottle of rye sold in the
malted, to boot. It may not be the plumpest 2000s was coming from Kentucky, Indiana,
kernel or the most bushels per acre, but the or Canada, and we felt that was a missed
flavor is unique, marked with slightly more opportunity. Empire Rye was always meant
nuttiness than your customary ‘vegetal’ to be an appellation, not a style, a mark of
ryes. We find that the clear distillate has a provenance. It must be New York grown,
pleasing cherry cola-like quality that seems New York distilled, and at least 75 per cent
to become more complex and richer with New York rye in the mash bill with a low
time maturing in oak. I think the farmers barrel entry proof and be a [minimum] two-
enjoy the fact that it is less susceptible to year-old straight rye whiskey to qualify.”
ergot, and the winter-hardiness is pretty Spoelman explains that Kings County
great. Up in New England, that is surely a uses Danko rye grown in Ancramdale, New
win for anyone bold enough to farm grains.” York, located close to where the state meets
The northeastern United States and into Massachusetts and Connecticut on the east
Virginia was historically known for its rye side of the Hudson River. “Danko is grown
production both before Prohibition — here as a cover crop, but only recently has
George Washington was the largest producer been used for distilling. While rye bread
of rye whiskey in America in 1799 — and is somewhat synonymous with New York
after Prohibition until about the 1970s and the northeast, the market for rye as a
when whiskey production nationwide nearly baking ingredient is pretty low, so distilling
ground to a halt. really opened up a use for farmers. Rye
The whiskey boom in the United is a tenacious, hearty grass that grows
States has spawned thousands well under a lot of conditions, which
of craft distillers, and those works well with New York’s climate.
craft distillers are often uniquely Kings County’s Empire Rye is a special
positioned to try new things. release each year. Our
Much like Mammoth Distilling most recent batch
in Michigan has worked to bring was a barrel proof,
the historic Rosen rye back to three-year age-
Michigan and the Delaware stated rye full of
Valley Fields Association notes of black
has also worked to tea, rich oak,
bring Rosen rye back and molasses,
to Pennsylvania, New with a funky grainy
York has worked to backbone that really
bring rye whiskey highlights the rye flavor
production back to in a way the column stills
the Empire State. often soften or strip
“Empire Rye is a out. It’s a really bold,
Photos © Kings County Distillery; Mammoth Distilling; Still Austin; Tamworth Distilling

project by New York viscous spirit that points

distillers to create a to what rye was like in
New York-specific the golden era. Having
designation of origin, tried some dusty rye
something common offerings, I do think that
in Europe but [which] most consumers have
isn’t done much here, really never had rye as it
except in Tennessee was meant to be, and the
whiskey, maybe,” Empire Rye project is
says Kings County the best articulation of
Distillery founder that argument, but in
Colin Spoelman. liquid form.”
“It’s worth noting As new flavors start to
THESE PAGES, LEFT TO RIGHT:
that while bourbon emerge, it’s an exciting A bottle of Kings County Empire
has flourished in its time to be a connoisseur Rye; A bottle of Chocorua
historical home, rye of rye whiskey. Rye Whiskey

48
 PRODUCTION Pedigreed Ryes

Rye is a tenacious, hearty grass that

grows well under a lot of conditions

49
 Kentucky Whiskey
WONDERLAND
The Whiskey House is bridging the gap
between tradition and science

WRITTEN BY GABRIELLE NICOLE PHARMS

50
 PRODUCTION The Whiskey House

W
hat’s next? When presenting this question to a celebrity or brand
leader, it’s often met with a vague one-liner to keep fans in eager
anticipation. And for any curious whiskey lover, when this question
is put to an industry professional, it could mean you’re one hint
closer to experiencing a sip of something new, and maybe something
exciting is on the horizon. Thankfully, we’re merely weeks away from finally receiving an
answer to that question in the world of Kentucky distilleries, with the unveiling of the
Whiskey House of Kentucky.
Founded by CEO David Mandell, COO and president John Hargrove, and CSO
Daniel Linde, the team behind the successful Bardstown Bourbon Company, Whiskey
House (opening July 1 2024) is designed from the ground up to focus solely on flexible,
custom whiskey production. From highly customizable contract distillation featuring
countless mash bill options, to AI applications providing unparalleled visibility into
the manufacturing and barrel-aging process, Whiskey House of Kentucky could be the
foremost game changer in American whiskey.

51
 Photos © Whiskey House of Kentucky
Whiskey House resides on a whopping
176 acres in Elizabethtown, Kentucky. The
facility has 32 traditional 42,000-barrel
rickhouses, a 50,000sqft palletized
warehouse, a spent-grain processing facility,
a bottling facility, a rail system, and access
to one of the largest limestone aquifers in
Kentucky. Whiskey House is brand agnostic
and closed to the public. Its focus is to be
the all-in-one for its exclusive branded
customers — from providing top-notch
customer service and competitive pricing to
producing innovative, high-quality whiskey.
“We got into whiskey in 2008–2009, on
a project which led us to ultimately come
out to Bardstown, Kentucky, in 2013, with
the idea to build a small whiskey distillery,”
Mandell says. “It was me, Dan Linde, and
another partner of mine, Garnett Black. We
looked at where Bardstown was and saw
where things were headed with the Bourbon
Trail. So, we began to develop this idea for a
destination-style experience... But what was
truly the engine behind Bardstown Bourbon
Company was the full custom whiskey
production for others. We were the first to
come up with this idea.”
Within a four-year window beginning in
2019, Mandell, Hargrove, and Linde left
Bardstown Bourbon Company, which was
then acquired in 2022 by Chicago-based
investment firm Pritzker Private Capital.
“When we got together — me, John
[Hargrove], and Dan [Linde] — we said
there’s a more important problem to solve in
the market now than when we started this
collaborative distilling program,” Mandell
says. “That problem is that when you have
brands that need custom production, they
need to really be in a place where they’re
getting sole focus, because what happens
is, if you’re in a facility that is producing its
own brands and running its own hospitality,
it’s like, ‘Am I the focus? And what happens
when they sell?’”
Thus, Whiskey House was born. Inspired
by the custom distilling program Mandell
and his senior team initiated at Bardstown
Bourbon Company more than a decade
ago, they pressed forward with founding
Whiskey House in 2021, with the mission to
transform the contract whiskey market.
“Manufacturing and designing a distillery
of this size is one of those bucket-list items
I get to check off. It’s like advanced food
PREVIOUS PAGES: A rendering of the
manufacturing meets spirits industry,”
frontage of Whiskey House of Kentucky
Hargrove says. Hargrove began his FACING PAGES, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:
manufacturing career at Quaker Oats/ John Hargrove and David Mandell;
PepsiCo, where he had the opportunity to Daniel Linde; Building Whiskey House
focus on innovation, process improvement,

52
PRODUCTION The Whiskey House

53
FACING PAGES, LEFT TO RIGHT: A rendering
of the Whiskey House of Kentucky campus;
The site under construction

and project management. Then, he worked

as master distiller and director of distillation
operations and quality assurance for Sazerac
at Barton’s 1792 Distillery before joining
we’re taking that art-meets-science... and
team Bardstown Bourbon in 2017 as COO.
One of the most impressive aspects of making real-time decisions based off data
Whiskey House is its fusion of tradition and
future-forward technology. The distillery
has more than 1,000 instrumentation
points that collect data that allows them
to do machine learning before introducing reinventing the wheel. We are gathering Whiskey House will have the capability to
the AI component to reveal aspects of the data to close the gaps in that process,” says collect data from every facet of the whiskey-
production process they’re keen to learn Hargrove. “So, we’re taking that art-meets- making process, from grain to barrels and
more about. “With adapting to the new science and backing it up from a data distillate. For example, two-dimensional
technologies and manufacturing in the collection standpoint and making real-time barcodes on the barrels tell you where
spirits industry, there’s a long transition decisions based off data that will help the the wood comes from and when it was
process. So, with Whiskey House, we can quality of our distillate, give our customers harvested. Whiskey House customers will
now adopt many of the new, efficient real data where they can make real business each receive access to a portal that enables
technologies in the manufacturing sector. decisions on their branding, distribution, them to check inventories, see their barrels
This is an old industry. So, we’re not sales, and story of their brands.” in 3D, review quality metrics, and more.

54
 PRODUCTION The Whiskey House

Do you want a whiskey with a delectable team to put their tasting notes in and Whiskey House plans to invest more
French toast palate? Whiskey House says the instrumentation to read the chemical than $350 million over the next decade,
its quality team and AI applications can profiles. Then, on top of all that, it will pull employing about 50 employees this year and
help build precise flavor profiles. “We all the data from the production system and expanding to more than 100 by 2027.
have congeners profiles for distillate and start making those correlations.” Ultimately, So, what do the old-school whiskey
maturate out there. So, now that we have the distillery will be able to identify the professionals and traditionalists think of
identified what congeners have certain congeners’ tastes and at what point the Whiskey House’s disruptive approach to
tastes to them, we can start uploading that congeners are introduced to a specific part of production with the inclusion of AI? They’ve
into our data collection system, where we the process. provided the Whiskey House team with
can add organoleptic results from our lab “When you collect all this data, Whiskey input on its design and capabilities. For
that pinpoint what congeners are present. House becomes a place that brings the instance, Jim Rutledge, the former master
Then, we’re going to put it through a GC–MS industry together to really push innovation distiller at Four Roses for more than 20
[gas chromatography–mass spectrometry] and learn,” asserts Mandell. “We learned a years, allowed the team to “pick his brain
and identify what chemical profile there is,” lot from creating Bardstown. In the same about the old-school Seagram’s way of
says Hargrove. “All that data is collected, way, one of the things that we certainly distilling,” Hargrove mentions. He adds,
and we have dedicated booths with a learned is that innovation is one of the most “It’s about balance. I always say respect the
software program that we’re building exciting pieces of whiskey now and going art and tradition of whiskey and bourbon
in-house that ties into our manufacturing forward. Consumers are excited about it. production — then you’re going to be taken
execution system across the board that ties There’s still so much room left in terms of care of because then you can also have the
all this data together. We’ll have a quality ways to go.” latitude to push boundaries.”

55
56
 PRODUCTION TexMalt

How Austin Schumacher and Chase Leftwich

are innovating the Texas malting industry

WRITTEN BY NICO MARTINI

A
ustin Schumacher and Chase digging into the history of barley in Texas,
Leftwich’s whiskey tale starts we found that prior to Prohibition, there was
like many others. They were significant barley production here,” Austin
avid homebrewers, deeply explains. “But post-Prohibition, the focus
engaged in the craft beer shifted away, and that legacy was lost. It was
community. As their interest progressed, as if Texas just stepped back from malting
they started realizing that they were barley altogether.” This discovery not only
staring at an opportunity. “We were just piqued their interest, but also motivated
talking to some of the craft brewers around them to create a bridge between the state’s
North Texas about where they source their past and potential future by reintroducing
ingredients, and lo and behold, they all said malting barley as a local crop.
there was no local grain purveyors, like at all. “Our first batch of malt was made from
It didn’t exist,” says Austin. discarded barley,” Chase recalls, referring
Most of the malt used by Texas brewers to some grain that brewer Molson Coors
was sourced from distant locations such had rejected which was destined to become
as Canada or Europe, a fact that stood in animal feed. “We bought it as feed because
stark contrast to Texas’ rich agricultural we saw potential that went well beyond its
capabilities. “We just kept wondering why intended use. It was a wild shot, but we were
there were no local malts at all. It was curious to see what we could make out of it.”
unbelievable, considering the agricultural The next step, naturally, was to transform
power Texas wields. And when we started their backyard into a makeshift malting lab.

57
 sustainable, locally sourced agricultural
product that could meet the specific needs of
Texas brewers and distillers.
“We knew we needed to work closely with
local growers to enhance the distinct flavors
we wanted in our malts,” Austin explains.
“We started experimenting and focused
on those that could adapt to the southern
climate, especially in areas like the Texas
Panhandle, where the cooler nights and
controlled irrigation create ideal conditions
for barley.”
The initial phases involved meticulous
trial and error, testing various grains under
different agricultural conditions to see which
PREVIOUS PAGES: ones would yield the best malting barley.
The barley harvest
FACING PAGES: A “Choosing the right barley varietals was
handful of barley crucial. But for us, it was always about more
grains; Loading in than just growing barley,” said Chase. They
the grain; TexMalt knew that, in order to be successful, they had
founders Chase (left) to cultivate the types of grains that would
and Austin with bags give brewers and distillers the flavors and
of their malted barley;
The malting process qualities they were looking for.
Today, TexMalt has expanded to include
several varieties of malting barley. Around
65 per cent of TexMalt’s grain is going
toward distillery operations. “The varietals
we work with today, like Genie and Voyager,
were selected for their ability to produce
not only great brewing malt but also high-
protein distiller’s malts, which are critical
for crafting high-quality bourbon,” Chase
shares. “This aspect of our production
has become increasingly important as the
demand for distinctive, locally produced
spirits has grown.”
The homemade malts they began to us to a community of maltsters. We came TexMalt’s approach goes beyond
produce were surprisingly well received by back with a solid grasp of what needed to be simply producing malt; it involves a deep
local breweries. This positive feedback was done and the contacts to help us do it.” commitment to enhancing the brewing and
the spark that encouraged them to consider When Austin and Chase returned to Fort distilling industries in Texas through the
malting not just as a hobby but as a viable Worth, Texas, they began collaborating introduction of high-quality, locally grown
business. “Our experiments started in the with local farmers to identify barley barley. “Working with these specific types of
backyard but quickly grew into something varietals that could thrive in the unique barley allows us to offer something unique to
much bigger,” Chase explains. “We began climatic conditions of Texas. This phase of the Texas craft beverage market. Our malts
by producing small batches, tweaking our experimentation was crucial as it allowed are not just ingredients; they are a way for
process along the way, and soon we were them to test different grains and malting distillers to distinguish their products with
supplying malt to local craft breweries. The techniques, adjusting their methods to suit local flavors,” Austin said.
response was overwhelming, and each batch the local environment. The enthusiasm from As the craft whiskey movement picked
sold out faster than the last.” the brewing community not only validated up pace, the category of American single
Sensing an untapped opportunity, their business model but also underscored malt began to reveal itself. All across
Chase and Austin sought to expand their the potential impact of reviving local malting America, malt was becoming a sought-after
knowledge and skills in the craft of malting. operations in Texas. commodity, and it became obvious there
They enrolled in an intensive course offered In 2015, Chase and Austin took the needed to be a concerted effort to create
by the Malt Academy at the Canadian significant step of formally establishing standards of identity for this emerging
Malting Barley Technical Centre, which was TexMalt, founded on a mission to whiskey style. The first members of the
one of the very few educational resources reintroduce and innovate the malting American Single Malt Whiskey Commission
available specifically for aspiring maltsters. industry in Texas by partnering with local began discussions in 2019. TexMalt had been
“The CMBTC course was a game changer for farmers to explore and cultivate suitable in these discussions from the get-go but did
us,” says Austin. “It not only taught us the barley varietals. The focus was not just not officially join as an allied trade member
finer details of malting but also introduced on creating malt but also on fostering a until 2021, when official memberships were

58
PRODUCTION TexMalt
established. TexMalt aimed to be at the spirits, contributing to products that are partnerships with agricultural experts and
forefront of defining and advocating for both high in quality and rich in storytelling universities to delve deeper into the science
standards that would not only benefit the potential. Chase adds, “We want each batch of malting barley influenced by terroir. This
industry but also establish American single of malt to tell a story of where it came from is how we’ll continue to innovate and lead in
malt whiskey as a distinguished category and how it was made, mirroring practices the industry.”
in the global spirits market. Chase says, from the wine industry but in our own Despite malting’s ancient roots, at nine
“Joining the American Single Malt Whiskey distinct way.” years old, TexMalt is a young and nimble
Commission was a strategic move for us. It’s By reviving a forgotten agricultural player working to introduce innovative
about more than just participation; it’s about practice and adapting it to modern practices and grain varieties. “The
actively contributing to the conversation demands and climates, TexMalt is not only introduction of non-GMO barley varieties
and development of American single malt contributing to the state’s agricultural that reduce carcinogenic risks during
whiskey as a unique category. And being diversity but also enhancing the quality and distilling has been a significant change in the
part of the commission allows us to advocate perception of Texas-made beers and spirits last few years,” highlights Austin, pointing to
for quality and distinction in how these on a global scale. What’s more, it is also at the company’s proactive approach to health
whiskeys are crafted and perceived globally.” the forefront of a movement that aims to standards and industry demands.
As TexMalt looks to the future, its vision redefine Texas’ role in the broader brewing Looking ahead, TexMalt is optimistic
encompasses more than just expanding and distilling industries. about the prospects of Texas products.
production. “We’re really starting to see how As it continues to push the boundaries of “Texas whiskey has firmly established itself
terroir can play into the flavor profiles of what is possible in malting, TexMalt remains and will continue to expand globally,” Austin
our malts. By understanding the nuances committed to fostering relationships predicts. “There’s a romanticism to reviving
of soil, climate, and barley varietals at each with local farmers, researchers, and other these age-old practices in Texas, making
farm, we can create malts that offer more stakeholders. This collaborative approach what we do incredibly rewarding.”
distinctive and complex characteristics. It’s ensures a continuous exchange of ideas and This passion for malting drives TexMalt’s
about bringing the uniqueness of Texas improvements, which is vital for sustaining operations and also inspires a continuous
lands directly into the beers and spirits,” says innovation and excellence in the field. “The pursuit of excellence and innovation.

Photos © TexMalt
Austin. TexMalt believes that applying this next frontier for us is integrating more Great whiskey comes from great grain, and
concept to malting barley can revolutionize in-depth research and development into our TexMalt has become a vital element to make
the flavors and qualities of both beers and processes,” explains Chase. “We’re exploring great Texas whiskey.

We want each batch of malt to tell a story

of where it came from and how it was made

60
WRITTEN BY
PEGGY NOE STEVENS

Master taster Peggy Noe Stevens

returns with her most appetizing
pairings yet

P
eggy Noe Stevens is a master styles and methods.
taster, whiskey reviewer, and This month we feature the following
competition judge. She is known brands and the inspiration for creating
for her super palate in the industry, unique profiles and food pairings. The
as well as her founding innovations following is a guideline to discovering the
connecting whiskey and food pairing ultimate food pairings for your guests.

62
Peggy’s Palate

63
Featured products that received the highest flavor tasting profile ratings: How to pair
Maker’s Mark impact that occurs during maturation while
Cellar Aged Bourbon 2023 allowing the barrel to develop complexities Balance is when you complement a
115.7 proof and deeper, darker flavor characteristics. predominant note in the whiskey
Let’s hear from Beth Buckner, the “Since our founding, aging our whisky and balance the flavors so one
innovation manager at Maker’s Mark, who is for a decade-plus wasn’t something we does not dominate over the
responsible for the brilliant concept creation did. Not because we didn’t believe in it; we
other. It creates harmony.
of Cellar Aged: simply hadn’t found a way to do it that didn’t
“Maker’s Mark Cellar Aged defines an compromise our taste vision. Cellar Aged
older whiskey that’s distinctly Maker’s. embodies an older whisky that’s distinctly
One rooted in burning recipes, challenging Maker’s Mark: challenging convention, Counterbalance is when opposites
convention, and building on a taste vision delivering new flavor experiences from the attract and you fire up a food flavor,
generations in the making. It’s a richer, environment that surrounds us, and building only to have the flavors of the
fruitier, more complex bourbon, that’s on a taste vision that’s been generations in whiskey tame and neutralize
deeper, darker, with no bitterness. To the making. any spikes of difference.
achieve this, we used the Maker’s Mark “Its launch in 2023 has been one of my
limestone cellar to age the bourbon for an proudest moments at Maker’s Mark, not
additional five to six years after a standard because it was my singular achievement, but
six year maturing in our traditional it really was a testament to the team working Explosion is almost too much
rickhouses. This slows down the tannic diligently to get it across the finish line.” of a good thing, when you take a
predominant whiskey note and dial
up the food match, to create surround-
sound flavors that slap an immediate
Simple pairing Appetizer/entrée/dessert
smile on your face and palate.

Balance Vanilla wafer Brie and cherry en croûte Hope you enjoy these products alongside
your favorite food pairings! The texture and
quality of each spirit will stir anybody’s taste
buds. Enjoy!
Counterbalance Wasabi pea Pastry-wrapped chicken Dijon

Crème brûlée drizzled

Explosion Luxardo cherry
with a cherry coulis

64
 Peggy’s Palate

Middle West Spirits distillate month over month. This meant a distilled and aged for four years in toasted,
Double Cask Oloroso lot of tasting to determine when and how it char level three American white oak barrels
Wheat Whiskey would finish out, but we decided this product from Speyside Cooperage in Jackson, Ohio.
100 proof would be ready when it was ready, and we It is harvested and then enters an oloroso
According to CEO, co-founder, and master think it was worth the wait.” cask for aging for another one to two years,
distiller Ryan Lang, “During the innovation “The mash bill for Middle West Spirits depending on how the flavors develop. The
process, we wanted to produce a double cask Wheat Whiskey is 95 per cent Ohio soft final harvest is done based on the flavoring
whiskey that would start with the flavor winter wheat (5 per cent two-row barley). profile, with the final proof chosen based
notes of the wheat grains we developed in This is the first grain profile used when they on the complexities of the whiskey distillate
the Ohio region and were fortunate to find released their first whiskey in 2011. The soft with the oloroso. We wanted the wheat
oloroso casks that we thought would balance winter wheat growing in Ohio has baking flavor profile of baking spice, vanillin, and
well. While we know we had a good whiskey spice essence, which is why it is used in many light oak to balance the robust oloroso
base to start with, the secondary aging baking products and baked goods produced profile that is similar to a Scotch [whisky]
process led to many changes in the barreled in Ohio by companies like Pilsbury. It is first finishing process.”

Simple pairing Appetizer/entrée/dessert

Balance Oatmeal cookie Bacon-wrapped scallops

Mushroom caps with Boursin

Counterbalance Herbed crostini
cheese and country ham
Photos © Dreamstime

Cranberry upside-down cake

Explosion Stromboli
with dark chocolate drizzle

65
Tastings 291
Colorado Wheated Bourbon
291 DISTILLERY

PROOF: 121.6
ABV: 60.8%
Peggy
Nose: Honeyed granola and white biscuit. Orange
STYLE: Bourbon

W
elcome to the American Whiskey Magazine tasting pages. marmalade is concentrated and clear. Caramel
STATE: Colorado
We guide you through a plethora of whiskeys so you apple and French vanilla lasts on the nose.
PRICE: $$$$
are equipped to make your next purchase, whether Palate: Fruit cocktail that layers a combination of
something new or an old favorite. Whiskeys are tasted blind, with fruit and sweet notes. A spike of cinnamon, a teasing
only proof and style information given to the experts. In this edition, detection of sage, and oregano lead the
Peggy Noe Stevens and Susan Reigler give their palates a workout. herbal charge.
Finish: Full and robust finish shows off a cloak of
tannins and spice. Lingers warm.
8.6 Comment: Finish is graceful and stylish
as it builds on the palate.
Peggy Noe Stevens
Peggy Noe Stevens became the world's first female
master bourbon taster and can trace her lineage
Susan
back to some of the great bourbon making families Nose: Spicy tingle accompanied by light apple peel
in Kentucky. In 2011, she created the Bourbon and some dark brown sugar. The brown sugar grows
Women Association. into light caramel as it rests in the glass.
Palate: Caramel and dates on the palate with
touches of saddle leather, light pipe tobacco, and
some cinnamon rounded and balanced by some oak.
Susan Reigler
Finish: Long and savory with tobacco, leather, and
Susan Reigler is the author of several bourbon oak that leave pleasant warmth behind.
books, including Kentucky Bourbon Country: The Comment: Wears its proof very modestly.
Essential Travel Guide, and is a former restaurant 8.8 Water brings out more fruit and caramel,
critic and beverage columnist for the Louisville so definitely a candidate for an ice cube.
Courier-Journal. She is the immediate past
president of the Bourbon Women Association.
291
Single Barrel Proof Colorado Bourbon
291 DISTILLERY

PROOF: 126.7 Peggy

ABV: 63.35% Nose: Fresh herbs surround a cedar and ginger ale
STYLE: Bourbon aroma. A grassy and fresh hazelnut addition. Hint of
STATE: Colorado
Armagnac and black tea. Light vanilla mix.
PRICE: $$$$
Palate: Creamy vanilla and old-fashioned praline
speak to the sweet flavors. Shortbread is added
yet makes room for white pepper and cardamom.
Behaved oak tannins.
Finish: Lively finish of ginger and vanilla, lean with
texture. Rounded oak.
8.5 Comment: Will develop further when it
opens, and patience pays off.

Susan
Nose: Ripe apples and freshly sawn oak practically
jump out of the glass with some notes of new leather
and stone fruit.
THE PROCESS Palate: Light caramel leads and is accompanied by
• All samples are blind tasted, with proof and style the only apple peel, oak, and leather. There’s a suggestion of
information disclosed. spice, but it’s not a major note.
• Samples are tasted individually over a two week period. Finish: Long, tingle on the lips and tongue mark the
• Tasters are provided tasting and scoring guidelines for consistency. finish, which ends in some sweet oak.
• The top scorer is awarded Editor’s Choice. Comment: This begs for an ice cube, both
• Scores of 17.5+ qualify for the recommended whiskey award. 8.3 to tame some high proof heat and to allow
some more fruit and baking spice.

66
 $: Under $25 $$: $25-$49.99 $$$: $50-$99.99 $$$$: $100 and above THE TASTINGS

Bardstown Bourbon Company Boulder Spirits

Discovery Series #10 Bottled in Bond Bourbon
BARDSTOWN BOURBON COMPANY VAPOR DISTILLERY

PROOF: 114.24 Peggy PROOF: 100 Peggy

ABV: 57.12% Nose: A marriage of fruit and oak. Big, red apple ABV: 50% Nose: Charred shiitake mushroom collects on the
STYLE: Blended and maraschino cherry. The mantle of oak is STYLE: Bourbon nose. Oriental spice develops and enchanting herbal
STATE: N/A STATE: Colorado
very present and intertwines with a cascade of notes of fennel.
PRICE: $$$$ PRICE: $$$
marshmallow and vanilla icing. Palate: Warm, mixed grains dance across the
Palate: More subdued fruit as the oak tannins show palate. Second sip dissects between caramel and
their strength. Noteworthy flavors of caramel and dark honey. Allspice gains depth, partnered with a
ginger that quickly climbs to cinnamon. black cherry. Toast.
Finish: Strikingly broad and lingers for days. Finish: Toasted oak lingers until the whip of spice,
Comment: Nicely articulated spices now cayenne.
8.6 with bursts of oak flavors to enchant any 8.4 Comment: You can feel this whiskey’s
whiskey drinker. backbone, ask for more.

Susan Susan
Nose: Mixed nuts, like opening a can of a Planters Nose: Chocolate-coated caramels with a blend of
medley; peanuts, hazelnuts, Brazil nuts. A bit of baking spices reveal themselves first.
peach and brown sugar lurk behind the nuts. Palate: Caramel embedded with savory notes of
Palate: The fruit jumps out front, joined by the leather, and roasted nuts. These are balanced with
nuts, some baking spices, and some milk chocolate some milk chocolate-covered orange slices.
sprinkles. As it opens up there is a good deal of oak Finish: Caramel, chocolate, fruit, and spices mingle
as well, but no bitterness. on the palate before the cinnamon and a pinch of
Finish: Fruit and nut notes have a good deal of nutmeg mark the warm ending.
staying power and gradually fade to the Comment: Complex and very drinkable
8.8 oak with a tiny bit of pepper. Medium long. 8.3 neat. The fruit notes would speak loudly in
Comment: Quite polite for the proof. an Old Fashioned.

Catoctin Creek
Hot Honey Rye
CATOCTIN CREEK

PROOF: 80 Peggy
ABV: 40% Nose: Cherry cola that develops into an airy dill
STYLE: Rye aroma. Herbal mint and celery. Slices of cinnamon
STATE: Virginia
coffee cake. Quince jelly.
PRICE: $$$
Palate: Sweet brown sugar structure with a flaked
chili pepper frame. Oak lifts and additionally,
flavors of orange rind and cola.
Finish: Very even spice notes with some sultry
sweetness of melted caramels. Oak reveals hints of

8.5
the smoke backdrop.
Comment: Unique flavors combining into
Nicely articulated spices with
a curious cocktail choice.
bursts of oak flavors...
Susan
Nose: Honeycomb and beeswax dominate. Then
a strong note of warm spice along with rye cracker,
carraway, and dill, come to the fore.
Palate: Interplay of sweet, savory, and spicy. The
honey is balanced by the hot chili notes so that both
are kept at equilibrium.
Finish: All the flavor notes fade together leaving a
touch of warmth at the very end.
Comment: An interesting flavored
8.5 whiskey that taste more muscular than its
proof would lead one to expect.

67
 $: Under $25 $$: $25-$49.99 $$$: $50-$99.99 $$$$: $100 and above

Clermont Steep
American Single Malt
BEAM SUNTORY

PROOF: 94 Peggy
ABV: 47% Nose: Pumpernickel bread that evolves into a
STYLE: Single Malt platform of dill and herbal aromas. An almost sweet
STATE: Kentucky
tart essence creating an interesting nose.
PRICE: $$$
Palate: Vanilla biscotti and white pepper. Dried
apricot with grassy hay overlay. Butterscotch
appears and couples with a wall of shortbread.
Finish: Easy and steady, never collides. Short
tannins and chewy honey stick, lingers with the

Could balance out a sweet 8.5

spice flavors.
Comment: Ample flavors are dressed up

vermouth in a Manhattan and ready to perform.

Susan
Nose: Very vegetal aroma spiced with a little pepper,
like the odor of a green twig when cracked open, with
some underlying roasted barley notes. Very fresh.
Palate: Far sweeter on the palate than the nose
might have indicated. Dark honey, light vanilla, and
dried apricot are counterbalanced with some oak
and a dash of cinnamon.
Finish: Rock back and forth between sweet and
dry, until finally tapering off into a note of
8.2 sweet oak.
Comment: Malt drinkers will enjoy this.

Dancing Goat Dancing Goat

A Quirky & Humble Blend I Would Rye 4 U
DANCING GOAT DISTILLERY DANCING GOAT DISTILLERY

PROOF: 105.4 Peggy PROOF: 110.4 Peggy

ABV: 52.7% Nose: Roasted corn dominates first nose, as fresh ABV: 55.2% Nose: Pleasing blackberries and dates give plenty of
STYLE: Bourbon orange zest attempts to pierce through. Yeasty, yet STYLE: Rye fruit notes. Currants and cardamom. Brown sugar
STATE: Indiana STATE: Indiana
not overbearing. cubes and custard sweetness.
PRICE: $$$ PRICE: $$$
Palate: Peppery tones accented with black cherry Palate: Rolled dates and toffee nibs. Shortbread
flavors. Expression of mint essence as the caramel with drizzles of caramel. Chocolate biscotti, bready
overflows with flavor. Gingerbread cookie. yet sweet. Fennel flavor as cinnamon revs up.
Finish: Spiced and very well balanced with oak Finish: Heats up with cinnamon covering the fruit
tannins. Caramel keeps singing alongside that frame and caramel notes. Fumed oak is present.
of ginger. Comment: Truly caresses the palate
8.6 Comment: Persistent finish of spice, 8.5 with the fruit sweetness until that zing of
anything but shy. cinnamon captures your attention.

Susan Susan
Nose: Oak, cherries, and some brown sugar are first Nose: Aroma like baking crusty rye crescent rolls
from the glass. Then some canned peach syrup and gives the first impressions. Then a decidedly floral
some underlying notes of vanilla waffle cone. note emerges, acting as a counterpoint.
Palate: Initial impression of pepper that very Palate: Savory on the palate with dill and cinnamon
quickly steps aside in favor of some brown sugar and Red Hots (though not too hot). A good portion of the
faint fruit. floral note from the nose is present.
Finish: Medium long and very dry with a good deal Finish: Long and savory with the dill having a major
of oak and pepper. say in the ending.
Comment: Sip with a single large ice Comment: A notable deep red color in the
8.3 cube. Could balance out a sweet vermouth 8.4 glass. A touch of water brings out some
in a Manhattan. caramel notes.

68
 THE TASTINGS

Maker's Mark Middle West

Cellar Aged Dark Pumpernickel
BEAM SUNTORY MIDDLE WEST SPIRITS

PROOF: 115.7 Peggy PROOF: 96 Peggy

ABV: 57.85% Nose: Distinct dark raisin and cocoa. Warm ABV: 48% Nose: Fresh dill and vanilla wafer with a white
STYLE: Bourbon cinnamon pastry and wood sugar. STYLE: Rye pepper frame. Honeyed granola with warm baking
STATE: Kentucky STATE: Ohio
Palate: Crème brûlée topping and an elegant spice. Juicy, deep peach tones relay at the end.
PRICE: $$$$ PRICE: $$
reveal of dark chocolate, along with candied Bing Palate: Rich mouthfeel of brown sugar and pepper.
cherry. Madagascar vanilla draws you back to Chewy texture extends to caramel and walnut before
the sweetness. rounding out to a darker fruit such as plum.
Finish: Even and lengthy. Oak is big and distinctive. Finish: Joyfully complex and balanced. Finish goes
Develops further on the rich sweetness and for days and lays a foundation of oak and sweetness.
mature spices. Comment: What a rye should be,
9.1 Comment: All-round superstar in the 9.1 decadent and spicy while celebrating dill
first pick, dramatic depth. tones and oak overtures.

Susan Susan
Nose: Rich caramel and vanilla aromas with Nose: Rising dough and cinnamon sugar with
some ripe apple, honey, and a suggestion of milk aroma of fruit cocktail upon opening the can.
chocolate. It smells like dessert. Palate: Far more savory palate than nose. There’s
Palate: Drier on the palate than the nose with a good peppery caramel and some of the fruit, which
deal of nuttiness and light oak. These are paired manages to step up here and there.
with some cinnamon and light pepper spice. Finish: Dries very quickly to oak and pepper, but
Finish: Pepper and oak define the finish which is surprisingly, just as it seems to be done, some fruit
surprisingly light for the proof. comes back at the very end.
Comment: Impressively smooth for the Comment: Seems a bit out of balance,
9.0 proof. Water brings out even more of 8.9 but it would be interesting to see how this
the caramel. would perform in a cocktail.

Middle West Middle West

Oloroso Wheat Whiskey Sherry Cask-Finished Bourbon
MIDDLE WEST SPIRITS MIDDLE WEST SPIRITS

PROOF: 100 Peggy PROOF: 97.25 Peggy

ABV: 50% Nose: Deep mocha and caramel blend and further ABV: 48.6% Nose: Cereal tones that level into a baked cinnamon
STYLE: Wheat extend to coffee aromas. Cigar box of sweet tobacco STYLE: Bourbon brioche. Caramel candy with flares of maple and
STATE: Ohio STATE: Ohio
lays nicely around candied dates. honey. Nestlé crunch with small shards of
PRICE: $$$ PRICE: $$$
Palate: Beautiful bounce of spice, leaning to nutmeg paprika spice.
and coriander. Dark cherry peeks through a layer of Palate: Elegant mouthfeel announcing multi layers
the tobacco flavors. Oatmeal cookie with currants. of sweetness from the caramel and maple.
Finish: Warm with a soft astringency that echoes Finish: Black pepper and ginger swirl within the
the oak and builds softly into the nutmeg notes. Rests sweet caramel and maple flavors. Oak tannins wrap
squarely on the center of the tongue with a the palate until the herbal cast finishes.
9.0 sweeping dark chocolate caravan. 8.9 Comment: Each sip is an adventure
Comment: Handsome and mature. between continuously unfolding flavors.

Susan Susan
Nose: Slightly burnt wheat toast aroma on the nose. Nose: Sugar-coated almonds with some apricots
Not unpleasant. This is followed by some fig jam and and light brown sugar make for a nicely balanced, if
light caramel. not especially assertive, nose. Fruit grows over time
Palate: Unsalted crackers spread with that fig jam. in the glass.
A touch of oak with some caramel and vanilla wafer. Palate: Apricots and peaches lead on the palate with
Just a whisper of light spice. a distinct cinnamon sugar note supported by light
Finish: Flavors exit in a hurry leaving behind some caramel and a second fruit note of ripe berries.
lingering warmth and an impression of oak. Finish: Long and warm.
Comment: Water opens this up Comment: A very satisfying neat sip
8.9 considerably revealing some cherries and 8.4 which could sing in a well-made cocktail.
even a little milk chocolate. Old Fashioned rather than Manhattan.

69
 $: Under $25 $$: $25-$49.99 $$$: $50-$99.99 $$$$: $100 and above

New Riff
Blue Clarage
NEW RIFF DISTILLERY

PROOF: 100 Peggy

ABV: 50% Nose: Heaps of earthy tobacco and hay. Smoldering
STYLE: Bourbon char aromas that display a backdrop of stone fruit
STATE: Kentucky
and dark honey. Hints of peppery spice.
PRICE: $$$
Palate: Impressive sweetness that overlays a blend
of caramel and vanilla steeped with oak accents.
Jammy berry center that turns to a light herbal cast.
Rise of pepper.
Finish: Full mouthfeel of honey-roasted nuts and

Manages to give the 8.9

wood sugar.
Comment: Keeps the palate deliciously

impression of sweetness... active with its interesting complexity.

Susan
Nose: Appealing aromas of vanilla and pears are
accompanied by a touch of cinnamon sugar and a
little bit of dried apple peel.
Palate: Rich vanilla accompanied by some brown
sugar, sweet cinnamon powder, and the pears.
Elegant and balanced with a very light touch of
sweet oak and nuts.
Finish: Manages to give the impression of sweetness
even as it starts to fade into some oak and
8.7 a little sprinkle of spice.
Comment: Well made and very sippable.

New Riff Old Dominick

Yellow Leaming Bottled-in-Bond
NEW RIFF DISTILLERY OLD DOMINICK DISTILLERY

PROOF: 100 Peggy PROOF: 100 Peggy

ABV: 50% Nose: Golden raisin and caramel icing. ABV: 50% Nose: Fruit cocktail and vanilla bean essence on the
STYLE: Bourbon Marshmallow follows and then conveys banana STYLE: Tennessee first nose. Leather books with slight must. Candied
STATE: Kentucky STATE: Tennessee
custard notes. cherries and cereal notes of grits and oats.
PRICE: $$$ PRICE: $$$
Palate: Soft vanilla and caramel mixed with simple Palate: Sweet flavors of candied apple rise on the
syrup and a touch of orange rind. palate. Ginger and cayenne intermingle. Caramel
Finish: Spicy finish that spikes and quickly mellows opens as a gentle reminder.
into both vanilla and oak. Conveys some astringency Finish: Spicy finish elevates the oak in the form of
yet lingers. clove flavors. Lingers sweet and dry.
Comment: I would mix with a Bronx Comment: A very powerful Manhattan
8.2 cocktail. The orange juice would blend 8.5 could certainly steal the show with
deliciously with this array of flavors. this whiskey.

Susan Susan
Nose: Light vanilla and a dash of baking spice are Nose: Light aroma of toasted bread with a bit of oak
present, but seem very shy. Not a lot emerges from playing around the edges. A bit of apricot or peach
the glass. With time, the vanilla gets a bit richer. tries to express itself, too, but it’s fleeting.
Palate: Lightly oaky caramel dominates the palate. Palate: The fruit has come out of hiding. In fact, it
Some dried apples, and perhaps bananas, provide leads the way here with some vanilla and pepper
some very faint fruit notes. arriving to counter the sweetness.
Finish: Dries quickly to nutty oak with a persistent Finish: Quite long with a nice trade-off between the
light warmth that does not travel much past the back sweeter and drier flavor elements.
of the mouth. Comment: Give it some time in the glass
8.0 Comment: Nothing flawed here, just not 8.3 for the flavors to mingle properly. Neat or
a lot of distinctive character. in a cocktail would be just fine.

70
 THE TASTINGS

Old Line Old Line

Flagship Navy Strength
OLD LINE SPIRITS OLD LINE SPIRITS

PROOF: 95 Peggy PROOF: 114 Peggy

ABV: 47.5% Nose: Heady fumed oak and apricot. Earthy truffle ABV: 57% Nose: An attractive mahogany aroma that is
STYLE: Single Malt and white caraway seed. A tinge of blackberry, STYLE: Single Malt dense and refined. Nice grainy notes with malty
STATE: Maryland STATE: Maryland
quickly changing over to graham cracker and undertones. Florals are inviting and airy. Toffee and
PRICE: $$ PRICE: $$$
roasted nuts. golden-brown sugar.
Palate: Toasted baguette. Vanilla bean and cola. Palate: Honey and butterscotch dance together for a
Herbal note of sage, golden raisin, and allspice. sweet combination.
Finish: Distinct spice character unfolds, as the Finish: Pleasing warmth and texture. Identified
toasted goodness repeats the journey to with ginger beer and sophisticated oak, for an
the end. enjoyably dry finish.
8.6 Comment: Lively, with depth of 8.8 Comment: Appealing array of flavors
complexity from earthy to spice. that carries through to the finish.

Susan Susan
Nose: Peaches and apricots float first from the Nose: Vanilla, light caramel, Bing cherries, and
glass. Then, aromas of light cinnamon, vanilla, and clouds of cinnamon sugar swirl together to create a
a very faint suggestion of oak. very inviting nose.
Palate: Warming notes of milk chocolate flavored Palate: Vanilla and cherries lead and are joined
with some orange zest, brown sugar, and some by some savory notes of old book leather, very light
cinnamon sugar. Caramel dances around the edges, wood smoke, and a touch of oak.
joined by some sweet oak. Finish: Medium long and spicy with an occasional
Finish: Flavors fade rather quickly leaving behind note of caramel and oak. Warm but not at all hot.
a nice peppery tingle and some warmth Comment: Very well-balanced interplay
8.9 reaching to the chest. 9.1 of flavor elements. Water makes it fruitier
Comment: Smooth and balanced. and sweeter.

RD1
Amburana Finished Bourbon
RD1 SPIRITS

PROOF: 110 Peggy

ABV: 55% Nose: Bright peach and florals dance with a
STYLE: Bourbon crumbled mixture of sugar and cinnamon sprinkle.
STATE: Kentucky
SweeTarts and sugar cookies. Soft caramel candy.
PRICE: $$$
Palate: Mild spice at first sip that makes room for
the peach and now apricot flavors. Unique array of
sweetness, maple syrup and a ginger ale soda.
Finish: Finishes with sultry spice that builds on the
palate with mixed peppercorn and ginger.

8.6
Comment: A large block of ice, or a
sweet mixer, would definitely tame this
Appealing array of flavors that
gentle giant.
carries through to the finish
Susan
Nose: Open the oven door to baking apple cobbler
with cinnamon, fruit, brown sugar, and a drizzle of
vanilla icing. Complex and enticing.
Palate: Apple is joined by some orange zest with
cinnamon sugar, vanilla, and caramel all acting as
very capable supporting players.
Finish:With the fruit and cinnamon trading places,
the whiskey takes its time drying to some spicy oak.
Comment: Balanced and complex with a
9.0 rich mouthfeel. Add a single large ice cube
and savor as it evolves in the glass.

71
 $: Under $25 $$: $25-$49.99 $$$: $50-$99.99 $$$$: $100 and above

RD1 Rock Town

Double Oak and Maple Finished Bourbon Single Barrel Cask Strength Straight Bourbon
RD1 SPIRITS ROCK TOWN DISTILLERY

PROOF: 99.9 Peggy PROOF: 115 Peggy

ABV: 49.95% Nose: Maple candy and Bit-O-Honey surround ABV: 57.5% Nose: Brown sugar and cinnamon with a hue of
STYLE: Bourbon the aromas. French toast and powdered sugar are STYLE: Bourbon nutmeg. Toasted bread frames the spice. French
STATE: Kentucky STATE: Kentucky
a one-way ticket to sweetness. Big butterscotch and vanilla notes permeate. Plummy fruit essence.
PRICE: $$$ PRICE: $$$
milk chocolate. Palate: Burst of sweetness from the brown sugar
Palate: Brown sugar and crushed pecan with slight and ginger creeps along the palate. Slight oak and
bitter shell notes. Vanilla pudding and butter pecan. graham cracker. Peppery with hints of dark fruit.
Finish: Little spice and fruit revealed. Finish: Spice on the center and slight astringency
Comment: Calling all sweet sippers, your favorite then levels out for the rounded finish.
whiskey has just arrived! Comment: Surprising complexity for the
8.4 8.4 age with big twists of spice.

Susan Susan
Nose: A savory medley of spices like dry rub for Nose: Dark brown sugar and apple peel emerge
barbecue jump out of the glass with some dark toffee first, followed by some toasted oak and a light
and a suggestion of apple peel. Very different! dusting of mild pepper.
Palate: Almost as savory as the nose, with some Palate: Brown sugar and vanilla caramels with
dark brown sugar and some cinnamon joining in. some light fruit and savory notes of tobacco and
Finish: It’s barbecue potato chips all the way. new leather.
Warmth lingers after the flavors have gradually Finish: Dries very, very quickly to oak with black
faded away. pepper. Warmth stays at the back of the throat for
Comment: A very surprising sip. Drinkers quite some time.
8.8 will probably be split between loving it or 8.0 Comment:Water has little effect here.
avoiding it. This drinker is in.

Square 6 Union Horse

Wheated Bourbon Reunion Straight Rye Whiskey
HEAVEN HILL DISTILLERY UNION HORSE

PROOF: 105 Peggy PROOF: 121.4 Peggy

ABV: 52.5% Nose: Bready and deep, shy of spice notes. Earthy ABV: 60.7% Nose: Aromas of peach lift quickly from the
STYLE: Bourbon leather and smoke. Mushroom on the third nose, STYLE: Rye glass and then surrounded by fragrant florals of
STATE: Kentucky STATE: Kansas
reaching further into the umami layers. honeysuckle and rose water.
PRICE: $$$ PRICE: $$$
Palate: Oak leads and a subtle blend of baking Palate: Bitter orange and a slight glimpse of the
spices reveal. Heavy orange rind twists with peach note. Dried ginger lifts eloquently with warm
cinnamon Red Hots. Some oregano and bay leaf. paprika. Milk chocolate and sugared almonds.
Finish: A bit drying, but enjoyable with the spice Finish: Quite spicy with a satisfying oak replay.
finally peeking into cinnamon, deceiving the nose. Comment: For a Monday mood that is in need of
Comment: A chameleon that sways back improvement, this will lift anyone’s spirit.
8.4 and forth from earth to spice. 8.5

Susan Susan
Nose: Roasted corn, dark fruit, leather, and some Nose: Sweet mint aroma dominates the nose and is
savory pipe tobacco are all embedded in a light supported with some notes of black tea leaves, some
caramel base. dried apples, and light brown sugar.
Palate: Fascinatingly, the fruit changes to orange Palate: Very dry with black tea and a medley of
peel on the palate, accompanied by roasted almonds, peppery spices. A second sip reveals a touch of brown
milk chocolate, and some baking spice. sugar and a suggestion of dried cherries.
Finish: A spicy tingle supported by the fruit carries Finish: Long and warm with spices giving way to a
the finish to a sweet and spicy ending. little pop of oak at the very end.
Comment: Interplay of flavors keeps Comment: While overall it has a
8.8 changing. Take your time with this. 8.5 decidedly spicy character, it drinks very
smoothly, especially for its proof.

72
 THE TASTINGS

Union Horse Rolling Standard Four Grain Very Olde St Nick

Whiskey Batch 20 Immaculata Ancient Cask Bourbon
UNION HORSE INTERBEV

PROOF: 92 Peggy PROOF: 118.1 Peggy

ABV: 46% Nose: A melting pot of grains and dried apricot. ABV: 59.05% Nose: Deep caramel boasts with dark cocoa, like
STYLE: Blended Grain Cocoa and coconut shavings permeate. Toasted STYLE: Bourbon a pot de crème aroma. Amazing date and fig with
STATE: Kansas STATE: N/A
crouton evolves gracefully giving way to a savory various dimensions.
PRICE: $$ PRICE: $$$$
bacon aroma. Palate: Ginger and paprika heightened on first
Palate: Oriental spices surround a structure of sip. Sassy clove steps toward other spice flavors.
cereal flavors. Bitter undertones with tannins that Caramel apple plays up until a rich sorrel whispers
grip the palate. the earthy notes.
Finish: Hot finish of cayenne and nutmeg. The Finish: A caravan of spices and oak. Pipe smoke
sweetness of macadamia nuts and cigar. permeates through the chewy texture. One
8.0 Comment: Born to be wild, you may lose 9.0 can still capture a grain foundation.
your inhibition for spice. Comment: Assertive in just the right way.

Susan Susan
Nose: A bit of citrus and stone fruit at first, Nose: Vanilla joined by stone fruit, a little citrus,
accompanied by a pleasant grain character. and very light baking spices. Very polite for its triple-
Palate: Rather more oak than fruit on the palate digit proof.
that speaks in tandem with the grains, though some Palate: Rich toffee flavored with cinnamon Red
dark, dried fruit, perhaps dates, emerge after it sits Hots, some allspice, and bright orange zest.
for a bit. Finish: The fruit and baking spices launch the finish
Finish: The dark fruit leads the way and gradually before turning it over to some caramel and oak for
fades to some light oak. No bitterness. the ending.
Comment: This seems to veer into the Comment: Complex, balanced, and very,
7.9 almost-too-dry lane, since the fruit comes 9.0 very sippable with or without the addition
and goes. of water or ice.

Westward Rum Cask Finished

American Single Malt
DISTILL VENTURES

PROOF: 100 Peggy

ABV: 50% Nose: Honey-rich notes alongside dark cherry,
STYLE: Single Malt Butter Brickle, and toffee. Kiss of oak and expansive
STATE: Oregon
nutty aromas. Cereal tones that are more biscuity.
PRICE: $$$
Palate: Intricately laced with the cereal flavors and
sweetness that is more of a bitter chocolate. Streaked
flavors of Guinness and bread dough.
Finish: Well-rounded finish with a surprise ginger
flavor that elevates and captivates.

8.5
Comment: Lively and appealing from the
start and keeps climbing the flavor ladder.
Lively and appealing
from the start
Susan
Nose: Green apple peel leads out of the glass
with aromas of new leather and malt following
immediately afterwards.
Palate: Pumpkin spice latte? Almost. Some
cinnamon and more vegetive than fruity. But it does
sweeten as it moves through the mouth.
Finish: The sweeter elements roll into some very
light oak for a dry ending with just a pinch of
black pepper.
8.1 Comment: Not especially complex, but
quite well balanced.

73
CASTAWAY Caleb Trigo

Island life
We send one of whiskey’s great and good
off to our island, but what will they take?

I
n this edition of Castaway, we are reachable. It’s a great sipper — and great in WHISKEY #4
sending Old Forester’s Caleb Trigo to cocktails (if you can find ingredients on the Slane
the American Whiskey island. Caleb island to make a cocktail). Irish Whiskey
has been with Brown-Forman, Old Not only would this lighter whiskey hit the
Forester’s parent company, since WHISKEY #2 spot as something more refreshing, perhaps
2009, and spent more than five years as Jack Daniel’s some luck of the Irish would serve me well.
an operations leader at the Old Forester Bottled-in-Bond Slane has a balanced profile. The sweetness,
Distillery located on historic Whiskey Row To me, this hardy whiskey inspires a can-do coupled with lighter fruit-forward notes,
in downtown Louisville. He was named attitude. I’d take this straightforward, bold would pair great with fruits found on an
assistant master distiller in February 2024. whiskey to enjoy in front of a campfire at island. This distillery where this whiskey
In his role as assistant master distiller, Caleb night. Its robust, wood-forward profile is the is made is just outside of Dublin at Slane
oversees quality and innovation. He studies perfect complement to the moment. And, at Castle. The castle grounds have hosted
under the leadership of much-admired 100 proof, it’s perfect for sipping. Bottled-in- massive live concerts, from U2 to the Rolling
master distiller Chris Morris, something he bond whiskeys have enjoyed a renaissance Stones to Bob Dylan. So, as I sip this whiskey
considers a great honor. in recent years, and most American whiskey on the island, I can let my mind take me to
Caleb has a master’s degree in distilling brands have one. I think Jack Daniel’s leads Ireland for a musical sojourn.
from Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh, the category with this expression — and
Scotland, and a chemical engineering many whiskey lovers would agree. WHISKEY #5
degree from the University of Louisville. Glenglassaugh
He began his Brown-Forman career as WHISKEY #3 Sandend
a process engineering co-op in research Woodford Reserve As per this whiskey’s namesake, this sea-
and development. Caleb and his husband, Double Oaked inspired single malt Scotch whiskey draws
Anthony, live in Louisville. His favorite Dessert on a desert island — am I right? flavors from the ocean and salty sea air
cocktail is an Old Forester Boulevardier, and Double Oaked has redefined the way some during maturation. Similar to my Irish
outside of whiskey, Caleb is an avid traveler enjoy bourbon. It can truly be a dessert at whiskey selection, this fruit-forward Scotch
and foodie. the end of a meal… especially after spending would go very nicely with some coconut or
all day exploring an island. I’d be inclined pineapple. Glenglassaugh Sandend hits the
WHISKEY #1 to uncork a nice bottle of Double Oaked to mark for an exceptional and unique Scotch
Old Forester enjoy the sweet vanilla and caramel flavors. whiskey — it’s finished in bourbon, sherry,
Single Barrel Rye Chris Morris, who created Double Oaked, and manzanilla casks which develops the
Making this selection was easy based on my really set the stage for what a double- profile into waves of tropical sweetness,
palate and what I think might help enhance barrelled bourbon can be. Many others infused with a crack of sea salt.
the experience of being on a desert island have tried to imitate his work, but in my
— this high-proof rye whiskey will certainly view, none of them have come even close. A LUXURY ITEM
spice things up. And, let’s face it, things We’ve discovered that Double Oaked is also A super nice dune buggy/ATV to explore and
have clearly gone awry for me to end up a way to bring new whiskey drinkers in the drive around the island — huge plus to have
on a desert island. Single Barrel Rye can be bourbon category. As one writer once said, some A/C and music going while enjoying
hard to find on the shelf, so if you’re looking Woodford Reserve Double Oaked is the Ted the ride. Music in the background would
for something similar, our everyday Old Lasso of American whiskey, because you can’t be perfect for relaxing and enjoying a nice
Forester Rye (a great deal at $26) is more help but love it. whiskey while admiring the scenery.

74
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