Oner 2019
Oner 2019
Oner 2019
Abstract: Although there are several parameters affecting fabric behavior, one of the most important factors that determines
the fabric properties is the fiber type and its features. Many types of natural and chemical fibers can be used according to the
usage areas and expected performance characteristics from the fabrics. Therefore, it has great importance to know the effects
of fiber types, which have different sources, structures and properties, on the fabric properties. In this study, the performance
and thermal comfort properties of nine different knitted fabrics made from natural, regenerated and synthetic fibers were
investigated. Within this scope, air permeability, abrasion resistance, bursting strength, thermal properties such as thermal
conductivity, thermal diffusivity, thermal resistance and thermal absorptivity of knitted fabrics made from different fiber
types were measured. In general, it is concluded that the characteristic properties of the fibers are important in determining
the mechanical and thermal properties of the fabrics.
Keywords: Knitted fabric, Natural fiber, Regenerated fiber, Synthetic fiber, Mechanical properties, Thermal properties
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Mechanical and Thermal Properties of Various Fiber Types Fibers and Polymers 2019, Vol.20, No.11 2417
fabrics, according to their results polyester and its blend feeling features [15]. Cotton fibers were selected as
fabrics came to the forefront with high bursting strength reference raw material in this study. Flax is a bast fiber used
values. Basit et al. [14] examined the thermal and mechanical to produce linen yarns, fabrics and clothing. Flax fibers
properties of cotton, bamboo, modal, Tencel and viscose consist of many individual fibrils held together by a natural
woven fabrics, and they found that Tencel fabrics have cellulosic adhesive material [16]. The thermal properties and
excellent mechanical and comfort properties. chemical resistance of linen products make it suitable for
When the studies in the literature are examined, it is seen many consumer applications and consumer finds linen
that there is a lack of a comprehensive study that deals with fabrics as comfortable with cool feeling. Linen knitted
natural, regenerated cellulose, regenerated protein and fabrics were produced as an alternative natural fiber type in
synthetic fiber varieties together and examines the mechanical this study.
and thermal properties of these fibers together. Therefore, The major man-made cellulosic fiber is rayon produced by
this paper purposes to describe the effect of fiber solution of a cellulose source followed by forcing of the
characteristics on the mechanical properties such as bursting solution through a spinneret and subsequent regeneration to
strength and abrasion resistance and the thermal properties form the fiber [16]. The most known rayon as viscose which
such as thermal resistance, thermal conductivity, thermal is first generation regenerated cellulosic fiber was chosen in
absorptivity, thermal diffusivity, thermal resistance and air this study. Another type of cellulosic rayon is modal fibers,
permeability of the knitted fabrics. which are produced by process giving a high tenacity and
wet modulus [17] and these fibers were also used in the
Experimental study. Bamboo fiber is produced from bamboo pulp, which
is extracted from the bamboo stem and leaves by wet
Materials spinning [10]. Bamboo fibers were selected in this study
In the present study, nine different kinds of fiber types because of they are frequent characterized by comfort
were used to produce 29.5 Tex ring-spun yarns. Natural features in the literature. Tencel is a lyocell fiber obtained by
(cotton and flax), regenerated cellulosic (viscose, modal, dissolving cellulose in N-methyl morpholine oxide and
bamboo and Tencel), regenerated protein (zein) and produced with wet spinning technique. Because of using
synthetic (polyester and polyamide 6.0) fibers were chosen. non-toxic process and coagulation bath, Tencel fibers are
Knitted fabrics with nine different fiber types were produced called ecofriendly [18]. Zein is the name given to herbal
on Shima Seiki SSG 234SV flat knitting machine with protein in corn. Zein fiber is produced by dissolving proteins
machine gauge of 7 and needle bed of 90 inch at constant from corn in dilute alkali and forcing these solutions through
machine settings and at the same tension. All fabrics were a spinneret into an acid-formaldehyde coagulating bath [16].
knitted with single jersey knitting type. Knitted fabrics were Zein fibers were selected for this study in order to represent
only treated by softening and washing processes. The regenerated protein fibers.
properties of knitted fabrics produced in the study are Polyethylene terephthalate polyester is the major synthetic
presented in Table 1. fiber in manufacture volume and owes its popularity to its
Cotton fibers are known as the main raw material of textile versatility alone or as a blended fiber in textile products.
and they have critical importance textile market. Cotton is This generic type of polyester was chosen in this study.
closely pure cellulose fiber and it forms from polymeric Polyamide 6.0 is a type of polyamide fibers which have the
cellulosic chains. Consumers commonly choose cotton placement of the amide groups in a continuous head-to-head
products with its natural hand, bulky, softness and comfort arrangement [16]. These fibers are generally known as
strong and durable fibers useful in a wide range of textile
Table 1. Basic properties of the knitted fabrics applications, and they were selected in this study to analyze
Courses Wales Weight Thickness
their characteristics.
Fiber type
per cm per cm (g/m2) (mm)
Methods
Cotton 13.2 9.6 220.16 1.16
The knitted fabrics were laid on a flat horizontal surface
Linen 12.4 9.2 213.02 1.04 for full relaxation and condition for 24 hours at standard
Viscose 12.4 8.0 199.81 0.94 atmospheric conditions (20±2 oC, 65±2 % relative humidity)
Modal 10.4 8.4 180.60 0.89 before the tests in accordance with ASTM D1776/D1776M-
Bamboo 12.4 9.2 203.64 0.92 15.
Tencel 10.8 9.2 183.16 0.97 Air permeability measurements were performed with
Zein 12.8 9.6 207.38 0.98
Textest FX 3300 Air Permeability Tester. Tests were
repeated 10 times for each knitted fabric at 20 cm2 applied
Polyester 12.4 8.4 224.28 1.12
test area under 100 Pa test pressure, l/m2/s measurement unit
Polyamide 6.0 12.0 8.8 210.42 1.10 were determined according to ASTM D737-04 (2012) test
2418 Fibers and Polymers 2019, Vol.20, No.11 E. Oner
standards.
Abrasion resistance measurements of the knitted fabrics
were performed by James Heal Nu-Martindale Abrasion and
Pilling Tester according to ASTM D4970/D4970M-10e1.
Abrasion resistance of the fabrics was determined according
to the cycle at the breakage of the sample (Number of cycles
were noted when first thread is broken).
Bursting strength measurements were performed by James
Heal TruBurst Bursting Strength Tester, by selecting 7 cm2
test area, and according to ASTM D3786/D3786M-09.
Measurements were repeated five times for each knitted
fabric. Bursting strength (kPa) and bursting distension (mm)
values were determined for all knitted fabrics.
Alambeta testing device, which was invented by Hes et al.
[19,20], was utilized to measure the thermal conductivity, Figure 1. Air permeability results of the fabrics.
thermal diffusivity, thermal absorptivity and thermal
resistance properties of the knitted fabrics. The contact correlations were obtained as expected (r=-0.810 for
pressure was 200 Pa in all measurements and all tests were weightiness and r=-0.671 for thickness). On the other hand,
carried out six times under standard atmospheric conditions. round cross sections of Tencel and modal fibers lead to a
In accordance with the experimental plan, air permeability, lower surface area with more fabric porosity. Bamboo and
abrasion resistance, bursting strength, bursting distension, zein fibers have a grooved structure, which provides a large
thermal conductivity, thermal diffusivity, thermal absorptivity surface area that leads to lower porosity [14]. Cotton and
and thermal resistance of the knitted fabrics were measured linen fabrics have the lowest air permeability, which may be
and the obtained results were evaluated in 95 % confidence due to hairy structure of natural fibers. Polyester and
interval (α=0.05) using IBM SPSS 23.0 statistical software polyamide fabrics have showed high air permeability values
by applying variance analysis. Besides, varying groups despite their high weightiness and thickness values. This
according to fiber types were determined multiple comparison result may be caused by the smooth surface structure of
Student-Newman-Kuels (SNK) post hoc test. synthetic fibers. According to the One-way ANOVA analysis
it is seen that air permeability values of the fabrics are
Results and Discussion significantly different between each other statistically
(p<0.05). SNK post hoc test results according to the air
In this study, air permeability, abrasion resistance, bursting permeability are given in Table 2.
strength, bursting distension, thermal conductivity, thermal As seen in the SNK post hoc results for the air
diffusivity, thermal absorptivity and thermal resistance of permeability values, cotton fabrics form a separate group
knitted fabrics having nine different kinds of fiber type were with the lowest values, and regenerated cellulosic fibers as
investigated. The results of the measurements were evaluated Tencel and modal fabrics take place with the highest values.
and fiber characteristics were analyzed.
Table 2. Results of SNK post hoc tests of the air permeability
Air Permeability
values
Air permeability is the measure of air flow passed through
fibers, yarns, and fabric structure. This parameter is one of Subset for α=0.05
Fabric N
the most important parameters that determines the 1 2 3 4 5
permeability and breathability of the fabrics, and it is also Cotton 10 796.67
associated with the porosity of the fabric [21]. The air Linen 10 1246.67
permeability measurement results are presented in Figure 1.
Zein 10 1346.25
When the air permeability measurement results are
Bamboo 10 1746.52
examined, it is seen that Tencel, modal and viscose fabrics
have the highest values whereas cotton and linen fabrics Polyamide 10 1943.35
have the lowest values. The reason for the higher air Polyester 10 2046.53
permeability of the Tencel, modal and viscose fabrics in this Viscose 10 2153.33
test group can be related to the lowest weightiness and Modal 10 2473.37
thickness values of these fabrics. Considering correlations Tencel 10 2573.50
between air permeability-weightiness and air permeability-
Sig. 1.000 0.505 1.000 0.059 0.505
thickness measurement results, significant and negative
Mechanical and Thermal Properties of Various Fiber Types Fibers and Polymers 2019, Vol.20, No.11 2419
It is also seen that synthetic fibers as polyester and Table 3. Results of SNK post hoc tests of the abrasion resistance
polyamide fabrics take place in the same group with no values
statistical difference in terms of air permeability. Regarding Subset for α=0.05
to this post hoc test, it can be said that synthetic fibers Fabric N
1 2 3 4 5
chosen for this study have the similar air permeability
Tencel 3 11000.00
behavior. On the other hand, it is understood that regenerated
protein fibers as zein fabrics have lower permeability Viscose 3 12666.67
capacities than regenerated cellulosic fabrics. Bamboo 3 15333.33
Modal 3 17333.33
Abrasion Resistance Zein 3 22000.00
Abrasion can be defined as a loss of substance from a Cotton 3 24000.00
material resulting from mechanical processing, which can be Linen 3 29000.00
achieved in several ways. When a fabric is rubbed against a
Polyester 3 36333.33
rigid surface, abrasion of the fabric starts from fiber surfaces
by friction. In the literature, fiber breakage has been reported Polyamide 3 49000.00
to be the most important mechanism causing abrasion Sig. 1.000 0.025 0.505 1.000 1.000
damage in fabrics, and abrasion resistance is expected to be
related to the mechanical characteristics of the fibers [22].
The abrasion resistance results of the fabrics having different Regarding to the variance analysis it is determined that
fiber types are illustrated in Figure 2. abrasion resistance values of the fabrics are significantly
According to the abrasion resistance measurements, different between each other statistically (p<0.05). SNK post
polyamide fabrics have the highest resistance values, hoc test results in accordance with the abrasion resistance
followed by polyester fabrics among the fabrics used in this are presented in Table 3.
study. As Hu stated, natural and regenerated cellulosic fibers SNK post hoc test results show that the main differentiation
are more susceptible to mechanical damage compared to among the effects of the fiber type is provided by polyamide
synthetic fibers [23]. Hu also indicated that, polyamide fabrics with the highest values and Tencel fabrics with the
fibers due to have high elongation, elastic recovery and work lowest values. In addition, it takes attention that cotton and
of rupture have a good ability to withstand repeated linen fabrics take in same sub-group, and viscose, bamboo
distortion, are generally considered to have the best abrasion and modal fabrics take in same sub-group, which means that
resistance [23]. Linen fabrics not only show moderate they have similar effect on the abrasion resistance.
abrasion resistance, but also they have higher values than
cotton and other regenerated fabrics. Zein fabrics as Bursting Strength and Bursting Distension
regenerated protein fiber have higher abrasion resistance Bursting strength tests are generally used for knitted
values than regenerated cellulosic fabrics. On the other hand, fabrics, which do not have such distinct directions where the
it is noteworthy that Tencel fabrics have the lowest abrasion strength is at a maximum, and which is stressed in all
resistance values among all fabrics. This finding can be
related with the high fibrillation degree of Tencel fibers,
which causes hairy fabric surface and high friction [24].
Figure 2. Abrasion resistance results of the fabrics. Figure 3. Bursting strength results of the fabrics.
2420 Fibers and Polymers 2019, Vol.20, No.11 E. Oner