Proseal lnstructions for RB67 film back and camera body

Please read these instructions completely before you start. Knowledge strengthens confidence, and
like most jobs, this is better done right the first time. I think you'll find it rewarding and tun, and l've
tried to keep things as easy and logical as possible in the hopes that anybody with reasonable
dexterity and ability will he able to re-seal their film back and camera body very well. I'm assuming
you are familiar with basics of re-sealing, and that you have read my online basic instructions. lf not,
please contact me for e web link to thern.

Flerearesomethingsyoumayneed: (1)asafesurfacetoworkon-l liketouseapleceof cardboard

about 1.5'by 1.5', but you can wsrk on fiberboard, newspaper or anything else handy--the important
thing is to proiect the surface beneath you. {2) Solvent-Naphtha (cigarette lighter luid is the same
thing) or denatured alcohol are what I would use. Because the RB67 is constructed with plastic
components, please avaid acetone, mek, toluol, flngernail polish remover or any other solvent which
might damage or destroy plastic or paint. (3) 2 or 3 paper towels. {4) some toothpicks or your
bamboo tool-if you have access to a wooden cuticle stick, this is a handy tool. (5) a safety razor
blade, hobby knife, or smali scissors and a metal straightedge (to cut foam i fabric pieces) (6) a small
screwdriver (7) a pair of tweezers, possii:ly. Now, let's take a look inside your camera:

The first three seals we'll observe are the fabric pads {one is at each inner corner of the
cradle), the hinge end seal and door edge seals {upper middle), and the latch end seal (upper
righi). Below, we turn our aitentlon tothe fllm carrier. Please note there is a slotwith loam in it
running along the side with the film pressure plate (left frame below) and also there is a short
piece in slots on the side facing the hinge end (as shown in the middle frame below). NOTE:
Your fllm back rnay not have the fabric pads. $ome backs didn't, and some did.

Use your small screwdriver as a dropper (or an old dropper bottle) to carefully drop denatured alcohol
or naphtha on some paper napkin stufled into the slot on the film carrier-as in the frame to the right
above. lnormally use enough to saturate it, but nottothe point of dripping. You can alsodrip solvent
into the rest of the slot. Let it sit a minute or so and then begin scraping it off. You may use a
toothpick with the end broken off, the wide end of your bamboo tool, a wooden cuticle stick, or
anything that will not damage ihe paint. When flnished, wipe with a paper towel and solvent. Your
work will go better if you are patient and give the solvent time to dissolve and loosen the old edhesive.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Observe the orecautions on the solvent can. Work in a well-ventilated area and
avo!d telo_fnuqh€k:!n qontact or conlaQl with eyes, and don't drink it. You will probably see black seal
residue on the filrn door edqe wipe that off at any tlme with solvent on a bit of paper towel

Left: With my barnboo tool or a blunttoothpick, I'll

push a bit of paper napkin or towel soaked with
solventthrough the slots. You can see the old foam
coming out of the slot to your left. You may need to
do this several times to get the slot really clean.
Don't worry if this takes a while. Please be patient
,
and work to get the slot nice and clean. Repeat for
all parts of the top and bottom slots (the ones on the
pressure plate side) and do the same for the small
seals on the side which faces the h inEe side.

There are f,ly,g methqds to re-seal these slots. Both are basically the same procedure, but one
method uses a non-adhesive seal I invented (the "Seal Strip"). The other method uses a strip of
adhesivefoam-justliketheoriginal seal design. lwill showyouboth. First,the"Seal Strip"method.
ln the first frame above, I start a "Seal Strip" into the slot. That seal begins about % inch around the
corner (as shown below). I push it into place with the thin end of the bamboo tool. The slick side of
the foam mus*L.face outward. ln the rniddle frame above, lcontinue around the curve, and in the final
frame above, you can see where I have trimmed the strip so that it will end at the right spot. ln this
camera, you may need a bit of adhesive on the flrst and last lnch of the "Seal Strip". Which method
would I use?
qh ilf
l-efi: I have placed a very light colored piece of foam to sfiow you
where the loam should begin in the slot. Cui a piece of 1.Smrn
thick self-adhesive open-celled foam 1.5mm wide. This strip
should be about 150mm long {to allow for trimming). Many people
are hesitant to try to install a self-adhesive strip into a channel like
this. Please let rne give you a professional tip"..afier you have
removed the backing paper from the strip, carefully put the strip in
your nrouth and make it wet. Or, you could use water. but.l
normally put it in my mouth. You vrlll find installing a wet piece is
easier. Use the saffle sequence of installation as above, being
very careful to keep the adhesive side facing downward. Once
installed and trimmed, set this aside for about an hour to dry. Then
press the foam down gently with your bamboo tool.
 Either the "Seal Strip" nrethod or ihe self-
adhesive foam strip method uses the same
installation procedure. To the left, I am
guiding the wet adhesive foarn strip into the
slot. I will use the bamboo tool to help guide it
in (the same as I did above), and I want ii to
be as wet as possible. Once it is dry, the
adhesive will stick perfectly"

lnstall the small pieces on the hinge end side of

the fllm carrier. For these, we'll use a 2mnr thick
piece of open-celled self-adhesive foam cut
'1.Smm wide and 17.Smm long. We want it to
protrude just a bit over the edge of the metal slot it
sits in {as shown). Get this seal piece wet before
you install it. The adhesive will not stick to the
sides when rt is wet, but it will stick fine when it is
dry.

NQTE: Some people have asked me why I suggest licking the adhesive rather tlran using alcohol to
moisten it. The honest and correct answer to that question is to look at things from the foam and
adhesive point of view...Your saliva will not weaken the adhesive at all, and your saliva will evaporate
more slowly, allowing you nlore assemblytime. Your camera and lwant you towork like a pro.

Fi

ln the upper lefi frame above, you can see l'm dropping some solrrent on the film door hinge seal. l'll
let this sit and soak a while and then I'll use the wide end of my bamboo tool to remove the old tired
foam. I'll re"peat this procedure for the foam on the fllm door sides and the latch end trough, and lll
take as much time as lneedtoclean theold foam off reallywell. lf you wantto stop here and enjoy a
nice glass of iced tea or water, that would be a good idea.

Okay...break time is over. Let's take a look at the fabric seals in the carriage (it present). Drop
somesolventoneachoftheseandletthissitandsoakinawhile. Youcanseebelowhowldothis...
 To the left, soak the fabric pads. ln the rniddle, l've used my bamboo tool to clean the area well.
When all four corners are clean, I'll cut and install four replacement pads, as you see in the right
frame. They are '1.6mm thick fabric seal, and they measure 7mm x 9mm. Remember to lick thent
before you install them to make it easier to slide them right up into the corner.
**The Film Door Seals--

After the film door lras been cleaned of old seal material, it is time to replace th e seals on it. Start with
the hinge end seal {as siiown below):

The hinge end seal is a 1.5mm thick seltadhesive

open-celled foam. and it measures 5mm wtde x 73rnm
long. Lick the seal piece before installing itto allow
yourself the ability to position it exactly as you want
it...as I've done. Remember, after this piece has rested
for 20 or 30 mrnutes, your saliva will be dry, and the
piece can be 1::ressed down for the final fit. Nice carefui
work and the proper material will always produce lasting
professional results to be admired by others.

The side pieces of the fllm door are exactly as you

would expect. Actually, you will install them the same
way you did the hringe end piece, Cut from the 1.5rnm
open-celled foam 2 strips which are Zmnr x about
150mm (to allow for trimming). Lick them well and
install caretully. I start installing them by butting up to
the hinge end and trimming at the latch end seal {on the
other end).

At the latch end, you can see whe:'e I stopped the side
piece fiust at the edEe of the trough wh ich holds the
latch end seal). Fw that latch end seal, please cut a
piece of 1.5mm open-celled foam 2nrm x 70mm, lick it
and install it into the trough neatly. Be sure to keep it
straight and with the adhesive side facing downward.
 **The Dark Slide Lip Seal*

Left: remove the 11 snrall

screws holding the plastic
back on and set them in a safe
place. Lift off the back and
you will see the dark slide lip
seal piece as shown in the
image to your right. lt is
cornmon for it to be worn in a
ti\J.tiii; $: cupped fashion.

Lefr, you see this ls

a V-sheped spring
with opposing
fingers. Right, soak
with solvent and
carefully remove old
fabric"

From the 'trmm thick self-adhesive velvet seal, cut a piece 12mm
x 70mm. Rernove the backing paper and lick the adhesive side
well. Line th is piece up with the tips of the spring fingers on one
side of the V shape and fold over at the boitom {as you see I

have done to the ieft). How to keep the adhesive from sticking
to the other side? Cui a thin pier;e of the backing paper )/ou
renroved and slip it between the two sets of spring fingers as you
see (slick side facing up). Then carefully press it into the
exposed self-ad hesive film.
When you have completed the velvet seal work, let this
piece dry for about 30 minutes and press the backing
paper once again into the exposed self-adhesive on what
will be the upper side of the assemhly. Then check to be
sure all the spring "fingers" are aligned properly {you can
bend them gently to adjust them if needed), and then set
the finished seal assembly back into place as shown to the
left. Then replace the plastic back and reinstall all 11
SCIEWS,

Let all this rest until it is completely dry. You might leave it overnight, if you wish. Then return to
press the pieces into place, using your lrarnboo tool. Once this is done, you may re-assemble the fllm
back, as it is ready to enjoy again.

--The Camera Body*-

The mirror damper is a good starting point. You will notice the damper pads are located on the s:des
of the mirror frame" These are irregularly shaped and in thickness were originally between 2mm and
2.Smm. The otiginal foam was nrade wiih a very loose composition, and as such required greater
thickness to damp the mirror's action. We won't need that thickness now, however, and we will use
1.5mm or 2mm at the greatest. Let's take a look:

Left: you can see

the original loam in
a deteriorated
condition.
Right: lam removing
the old foarn with a
bamboo tool.
Please don't use
any solvent here.

The new pieees will be cut 75mm long and tapered from 6mm to 3.5mm. As I said, I use 1.5mm or at
tlie most 2 mm thick foam. There is a cutout at the bottom of the mirror to allow the pad to miss the
mirrorsecuringclip. Usesmall scissorstotrimthis. hlewfoarnwill looklike:
You ll see the small cutout at the bottom of the damper
pad in the image to the left. Note: There are two bumper
pads which sit at the top of the mirror on the inside of the
camera body. These should be left alone. They are very
difficult to remove and replace wtthout disassembling the
camera. Yes, this camera does have a dusty nrirror^
Thanks for noticing thrit. l'll use a fine soft brush to clean
it later. One uiirer thing: you will nottce your niirror does
not sit skaight when it is in the up position. This is
because it has linkage only on 1 side. Not a good design
for a mirror this wide, but nothing to worry about.

Between thre mirror frame and the flap below it, you will
find another strip of foam. This piece is 3rnm thick and
about 3mm wide. lt is about 68r'nm in length. I started
with a piece about 7CImm in length and trimrned it down
until it fit as it should {don't remove the adhesive backing
paper as yor.r are trinnming). You can work best if you will
cock the shutter halfway and work through the lens
opening, as l've done to the lefi. Again, please don't use
solvent to remove the old foam...jusi use your bamboo
tool and possibly sonre tweezers. Remerytber to lick the
adhesive side before you install this piece to allow time to
position it.

The rotating back uses two seals on each side of lt...the cafflera side and the film back side. Let's
look:
 The yellow arrow points to the perimeter seal.
Origlnally this was die-cut fom a plece of foam, but
we're not going to worry about that. There is an easy
way to re-seal this piece, and here is hsw: Cut a piece
of '1.5mm thick foam square...that is to say cut the
1.5mm foam 1.Smrn wide. Then sinrply gulde it
carefully through the slot and around the corners. lf you
will take your time, you can make tt follow the path just
as ii should. Please watch nne"..

To the lefi, I am using

my bamboo tool to
remove the old foam. l'll
wet this with a solveni
like denatured alcohol
first to loosen the old
adhesive. To the righi, I
am installing the new
foam strip. You can see
how I have carefully
bent it through the curve
of the slot. lwill use 2
strips, and lwill buttthe
ends together.

The other side of the rotating back:

The other side is designed just like the first side, but the
dlmensions of the seal foam are differeni. For this side,
please use Zrnrn thick foarn, and cut it square.."ihat is,
cut it Znrm x 2mrn. You'll need 2 pieces about B inches
long, just like the first side, and you'll butt the ends
together. lf you remember geonretry or any of those
other courses from your long ago, you'll remember it is
easier to bend a squarfe shape than a rectangular one,
and frere is a secret about foam: Never cut a piece less
wide than its height ithickness). lnsiabiliiy will follow if
you do. You can see how I ve guided the new foam
through the slot and the curye. Work carefully.
 Finally, under the focus scFeen cover you will
see four small fabric pads. Two are shown to
the left. These don t seal light leaks, but when
they become worn and old, they'll allow the
cover to flt in a sloppy and loose fashion. You
can replace them using either the 1.6mm thick
lelt seal in your kit or you can laminate 3
layers of the th in velvet seal material in your
kit. I preler the 3layers of the thin material.
Cut the pieces 6mm tall x 5.5mm and 1Omm
{you will note they are different widths).

*-NOTES*-

These instructions were given to you as an accompaninrent to a general seal kit. or lor any of several
reasons. You should be able to easily cut your own seal pieces from my seal material, and you
should nqver use inferior materials as a substitute. Using the best costs no more, and it will be much
better for your camera.

Jon Goodman --- 2006, 2008