Watering Native Plants

Watering Native Plants
by Mike Evans
Tree of Life Nursery
CaliforniaNativePlants.com
Wa t e r i n g N a t i ve P la n t s
WHY WATER
You are watering the soil in order
to provide for the plants’ needs.
Soil is the bank where water is

deposited and stored, and where all
withdrawals originate.Water enters
the soil as rainfall or through
irrigation.Water exits the soil by
evaporation into the atmosphere
and through transpiration, which is
the term describing its use by plants.
Taken together, the total water loss/
Flowering native plants watered once a month in summer
use is called evapotranspiration.
we might get.You can also capture waterings alone will not promote
WHAT TO WATER
rainwater in rain barrels or reservoirs, healthy, sustainable landscapes.
Plants use water to cool themselves for use later during the dry season.
and to grow. Plants draw water in Waterlogged soils will cause root
through their roots and transport it Irrigation is the water supplied as rots on plants that need oxygen in
through their entire system. a supplement to rain. In the dry their root zones, especially in summer
Roots grow in soil. Different plants season, you need to water before when soil temperatures are warm.
have different water needs. Plants the plant needs it. Put water in the Root rots and other disease
can absorb some water through soil (like savings in the bank) so plants organisms are most likely to infect
their leaves as well, though most can make withdrawals as needed. In plants in summer, in instances where
natives are adapted to not need this California it rains in winter, usually there is too much water, not enough
source of water, especially in the enough to carry natives through oxygen, and soil temperatures above
summer months. summer, especially if you have made 72° F. Frequent shallow waterings
provisions for rainwater to soak in often provide the conditions fungal
WHEN TO WATER rather than run off. In our gardens, root rots need to attack native plants.
Rain is the best water. It comes at our plants might appreciate a little
the best time, it is free and it is pure. extra water in summer to keep As a general rule, it is time for an
Native plants love rain and they them looking fresher than their irrigation (a deep soak) when the
grow during the rainy season.You cousins out in the dry hills. soil has become dry at a depth of 3
should build swales, check dams, - 4 inches. On newly planted gardens,
micro-topography and soil surface But be careful with summer watering. you need to keep the soil a bit more
profiles in your garden in order to The goal is to promote root systems consistently moist, but don’t water
direct and retain rainfall so that it that reach extensively into deep every day or too frequently as you
will soak in rather than run off.Take soils.You achieve this goal with deep will create waterlogged situations.
advantage of all the natural waterings infrequent irrigations. Shallow
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DEFINITIONS
Rainy Season - typically October thru April. “Average” rainfall amounts
throughout southern California, 12-14 inches.
Precipitation rate - the rate, measured in inches per hour, that rainfall or
an irrigation method uniformly applies water to the site.
Irrigation - in this article this term refers to a deep soak watering event,
equivalent to 1-2 inches of rainfall.
Refreshing sprinkle - in this article a refreshing sprinkle refers to a washing

of the leaves, and cooling the area, and slight moistening of the soil surface. KEY POINT
These can be beneficial when timed correctly (late afternoon) to “freshen up” Most native plantings will thrive with
the garden between irrigation events.This can be done by running the sprinklers a deep-soak irrigation once every
for a short time, (i.e.; 5-7 minutes), or with a spray nozzle on a garden hose. 3-4 weeks during the dry season.
New plantings or landscapes with
Contour Grading - Swales, mounds, and basins constructed to make a herbaceous, shallow rooted plants
“rain garden.” Look for a kind of “microtopography” you create with dry creek can receive lighter irrigations in
between, but for all plantings, be
beds, mini dry ponds, basins, and mounds (the soil that comes out of the swales
prepared to irrigate thoroughly about
and basins). Careful placement of these contour features slows down rainfall
once a month, May through October.
runoff so that it soaks into the ground. Sprinkler irrigation will be far more A thorough irrigation is considered
effective as well. Include boulders, rocks, stones, and pebbles for a natural look. applying enough water to equal a rain
event totaling approximately 1 -1.5
FACTORS DETERMINING WATERING FREQUENCY: (up to 2) inches.Though not
absolutely necessary, most gardens
Season - During the cool season, most native plant landscapes will do fine on
will also benefit from a weekly
rainfall alone with no supplemental watering. Of course new plantings will need
refreshing sprinkle in addition to the
watering, and in a dry winter, you may want to provide water during an unseasonal monthly deep soak irrigation. See
dry spell. Rain is best, so watch the forecasts and hold back on watering when HOW MUCH TO WATER on
rain is anticipated. Conversely, in a dry winter, you may want to water immediately page 14.
after a very light rain event, artificially providing additional precipitation.
Location - Sites near the coast are cooler in summer and the nighttime humidity helps the vegetation during the
summer months. Inland sites are much hotter and drier. Of course you need to choose the right plants, and
understand that plants in inland sites will usually require more water than plants in coastal gardens.
Exposure - Plants in full sun grow in soil that will become hotter and drier than soil that is shaded. Plants have
figured this out, so their strategy to shade their own root zone is actually pretty clever. Low branches and fallen
leaves provide shade and mulch to keep the root zone cool and moist. Soil in the shade of trees, fences, buildings, etc.,
will stay moist longer than soils in the sun.
Weather - This factor might seem

too obvious.The point is you should
be watering “ahead.” Farmers (the
good ones) do not play catch-up in
watering their crops.They water for
the plants’ future needs. In summer,
watch the weather forecasts and soak
your garden several days before the
heatwave, otherwise the plants will
be trying to make withdrawals from
an overdraft account.
Soil type - Different soils store

water differently. Clay soils have a
greater water holding capacity and
they retain moisture a long time.
Sandy soils dry out quicker and retain
less water to be made available to the The plants in these photos are being hand watered 10 months after planting. Note the
plant. Loam soils are ideal, providing watering basins and the secondary watering rings, well outside the dinemsions on the
a perfect blend of moisture original planting holes.This special deep soak done by hand is only necessary a few times
retention and pore space where during the first summer to get the plants established.The goal is to promote healthy
root systems in deep, cool, moist soil.
roots can find the water and the
oxygen they need to be healthy. Clay
soils hold moisture but can become
waterlogged to a point where there
is no oxygen for the roots. Sandy
soils can easily dry out to the point
where roots cannot find water.
Plant types - Plants from dry

climate regions (like California) are
adapted to require less water than
plants from temperate or tropical
regions. California natives are
accustomed to getting their water
during the cool rainy season, and
then toughing it out through the dry
summer. In the garden, they will
benefit from a little summer water,
but it has to be applied correctly.
HOW TO WATER
Cycle/soak or Pulse Irrigation - In each of the
irrigation methods described below, you may find it
beneficial to water using a technique called “cycle/soak”
or “pulse” irrigation.”
Here’s how it works: Water three days in a row to

achieve a cumulative irrigation total of 1 - 1.5 (up to 2)
inches.This is especially important in heavy (clay) soils
where penetration is difficult and absorption is slow.The
premise is simple and based on natural rainfall. By
example, our most effective rains come as showers
falling over an extended period. If we get 2 inches of rain
in showers scattered over a three-day period, it is much
better than a single 2-inch downpour.The same with
summer waterings. If you apply 1 - 1.5 (up to 2) inches of Hose-end mini sprinkler with 9 - foot radius supplies approximately
precipitation over three consecutive days, you will get 1/4” precipitiation per hour, ideal for cycle/soak or pulse irrigation
better penetration, better oxygenation, and better root deep soak.
uptake. Your three days of watering will be considered

Sprinkler (hose-end) - Since native plants only need
one irrigation “event.”
an irrigation about once a month, it is very easy to set up
an old fashioned sprinkler on the garden hose, turn the
Hand water - For home landscapes and all small
water on at a gentle flow, and leave the sprinkler running
accessible spaces, don’t underestimate the simple act of
long enough to thoroughly soak the ground where the
standing with a garden hose and soft rain nozzle and
sprinkler covers.You will need a sprinkler with a very
watering your plants by slowly and methodically soaking
low precipitation rate to avoid wasting water to runoff.
the soil. It takes a little while but it is time well spent and
You can move these “sets” around until your entire
you will see details in your garden you may miss
garden is watered. Believe me, grandpa used to water his
otherwise. Do this in the early morning or late
very thirsty lawn this way. For natives, find a sprinkler
afternoon, and not in the heat of the day. If you have
that supplies water with low volume flow (provides deep
watering basins and micro-topography built into your
soak), small droplets (prevents soil compaction), and low
planting, this will be an easy way to get a good deep soak.
trajectory (keeps most of the leaves dry).Tree of Life
You can water thoroughly about once a month, and
Nursery makes and sells micro-sprinklers as singles or
include a few light sprinklings in between if you like,
with multiple sprinklers in-line for simple cost effective
always avoiding the midday heat.This pattern would
watering.With micro-sprinklers, pulse irrigation
establish your irrigation frequency at approximately
described above is best because of their very low
once every 3-4 weeks, with a refreshing sprinkle once
precipitation rate, less than .25 inches per hour.You may
or twice a week.
need 6-8+ (up to 12) hours of run time to get a good
deep soak, so it is better to apply it over a three day
period, three pulses of 2-3+ (up to 4) hours each.
HOW MUCH TO WATER

Remember, soil stores water where plant roots can find water.Water exits the soil through evaporation into the
it. Clay soils effectively retain more moisture for a longer atmosphere and through transpiration, which is the use
time, but absorb water more slowly. Sandy soils dry out by the plant in cooling itself and growing.The rate at
quicker, and while water readily sinks in, the water which which all water is lost and used in the landscape in called
actually adheres to the outside of each sand particle the evapotranspiration rate. In areas of high evapotrans-
(capillary water) is easily lost. Loam soils retain moisture piration (hot, dry, windy) you will need to apply water
and allow space for oxygen. more frequently. In sandy soils, you will also need to
water more often effectively using more water than in
Plants differ in their water needs.This and many factors clay soils. Plants should be selected based on their soil
have to be considered in determining how much to preference and their corresponding water needs.
KEY POINT
Our rains come during the cool season when evapotranspiration rates are low. In summer, the plants limit their use of precious soil
moisture through ecological adaptations to reduce transpiration, i.e; making leaves that are grey, fuzzy, small, thick, leathery, waxy,
succulent, oriented vertically on the stem, or leaves which reduce in number (leaf drop, summer dormancy), or various combinations of
the above.We can manage summer water for the benefit of the plants, keeping them attractive and verdant through the season, but too
much water, especially in soggy soils can harm them. Most are simply not adapted to grow in warm wet soils.With deep infrequent
irrigations, we provide a place for healthy roots in cool moist soil, and plenty of valuable oxygen in the root zone.
WHERE TO WATER CONTOUR GRADING –

Water where the roots are, and where you want them SWALES, BASINS AND MOUNDS
to be, or where you know they should be as the plant Contour grading will allow water to flow, sit, and puddle
matures. As a general rule, a plant’s root system is most (especially during rain) in such a way that it will soak the
active in the zone equivalent to its outermost branches. ground down deep.This deep moisture will spread
laterally in the deeper horizons of your soil, effectively
Do not over-water right next to the crown of the plant, moistening the entire root zone of the whole planting.
which is the spot where the stem comes out of the soil.
Many plants suffer from fungal rot if the soil at the crown When you include subtle grade changes, (micro-topogra-
is continually saturated, particularly during warm phy), you increase the ability for your site to absorb and
weather. retain water, either from rain or irrigation. Dig swales
and basins to build mounds. Use boulders, rocks, stone
On new plantings you need to make sure the nursery and pebbles to make a dry streambed. Include logs, stick
root ball does not dry out, and you need to promote piles, and stumps, located to prevent runoff while
rooting into the surrounding soil by applying water providing valuable habitat for wildlife species that will
well outside the dimensions of the planting hole. start as garden visitors and soon become residents...
sharing the space with you.
On established plantings, you simply need to get all the
ground uniformly wet, just the way a rain event does,
and you need to get the water to soak down deep.
Pop-up stream rotor sprinkler in a 7-month-old, properly graded, mulched landscape with native plants spaced correctly allowing for
future growth.
WATER DELIVERY METHODS

Sprinklers (systems overview) - You can estimate
your precipitation rate by placing several empty
coffee cans in your garden, running the sprinklers for 30
minutes, measuring each can and taking an average, then
multiplying by two (since you watered for half an hour)
to get the average “inches per hour” factor for your
sprinkler system.This will help you know how many
minutes you need to apply the recommended 1 - 1.5 (up
to 2) inches of water per irrigation event.You can also
calculate your precipitation rate if you know the
Spray head nozzles apply water at a high rate = approx 3/4-1”/hr. gallons per minute (GPM) flowing through the sprinkler
valve as follows: (GPM x 96.3) / square footage of your
irrigated area = precipitation rate in inches.
Sprinklers (spray heads) - If you have spray heads

from a previous lawn or garden, or have installed them
for native plants, you can use them to water. Since they
apply water rather rapidly (high flow rates), with high
precipitation rates, (average 1.5 - 2 inches per hour), be
careful to avoid runoff or overspray. “Misting” (too much
pressure) and wind drift can be problematic as well.
Cycle soak or pulse irrigation will help make spray head
irrigation more effective. Know your precipitation rate
and water accordingly, measured in inches per hour.
Mini sprinkler nozzles apply water at a very low rate = approx 1/4”/hr.
Pulse irrigation with conventional spray heads might

mean watering three consecutive days, 20-30 minutes
per day in the early morning, approximately once a
month. In the long interval between irrigation events
you can provide refreshing sprinkles by occasionally
running the sprinklers for 5 minutes in early morning or
late evening, a couple times a week during hot weather.
Sprinklers (stream rotors) - Many older spray head

sprinkler systems have been converted or adapted to high
efficiency rotating nozzles.These newer heads apply water
more slowly, (average .5 inches per hour) making them
Stream rotor nozzles apply water at a low rate = approx 1/2”/hr. more efficient with less runoff and wind drift. If you know
the precipitation rate (estimated, calculated or as stated yield, soil type, and evapotranspiration rate are uniform
by manufacturer) you can easily apply the recommended throughout the entire planting. Drip irrigation has been
1 - 1.5 (up to 2) inches per irrigation event.These tremendously successful in dryland agricultural settings.
high-efficiency rotating nozzles allow for better penetration Transferring this technology to ornamental gardens is
into the soil, but they will need to run a longer time to not as easy as it might sound.
deliver the desired amount of water. Know your
precipitation rate and water accordingly, measured In many cases it can be quite difficult to make drip work
in inches per hour. well in horticultural settings. In a native landscape, where
many different plants are involved, the goal remains the
Pulse irrigation with high efficiency rotating nozzles might same:Thoroughly wet the soil with a deep soak to the
mean watering three consecutive days, 45-60+ minutes bottom of the root zone approximately once a month.
minutes per day in the early morning, approximately once With drip, it will be a challenge to provide a few additional
a month. In the long interval between irrigation events refreshing sprinkles in between irrigation events.
you can provide refreshing sprinkles by occasionally Since there are no sprinklers on the site, you will have to
running the sprinklers for 5-10 minutes in early morning use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, or forgo the
or late evening, a couple times a week during hot refreshing sprinkles.
weather. Do not sprinkle during the heat of the day.
Sprinklers (all types, practical tip) - Run the

sprinklers approximately once a month to achieve an
irrigation totaling 1 - 1.5 (up to 2) inches precipitation,
May through October. On new plantings and young
gardens you may need to water lightly, (i.e.; 5 minutes
once or twice a week) in between and in addition to the
deep soak irrigations. On any garden, the light refreshing
sprinkles will freshen the plants, wash the leaves, and
keep the soil surface a little cooler and somewhat moist.
However, these refreshing sprinkles will not effectively
water the root zone nor promote long term sustainability.
All sprinkler watering, whether deep soak irrigation or Proper in-line drip installation — before growth.
light sprinkles, should be done in the cool of the day,

irrigations in early morning and refreshing sprinkles Drip irrigation (point-source drip or in-line drip)
in the late afternoon or early evening. - You need to know your precipitation rate and how
long it takes for capillary action to wet all the soil
Drip irrigation (systems overview) - Drip was laterally. Given these factors, you can run the system to
developed in dry Mediterranean zones over 40 years ago apply 1 - 1.5 (up to 2) inches of water per irrigation
in commercial agricultural applications. A single species event, approximately once a month for deep soak.
(monoculture), planted in straight lines, (i.e.; vineyard,
orchard, row crop) can be effectively watered by drip Point source drip refers to a system of small tubing
because the root systems, crop age, growth rate, desired (sometimes called spaghetti) snaking through the garden,
with emitters installed in the tubing and at the tubing As stated earlier, natives are adapted to cool wet winters
ends.The most common errors include too few emitters and warm dry summers. In general, their period for
usually placed too close to the plants, and too short a active growth is fall, winter and spring, extending into
run time to effectively water at deep levels. Installed early summer, utilizing rainfall and soil residual moisture
properly, the root zone of each plant will be thoroughly from the rains. During the heat of summer, they tough it
and evenly soaked with each irrigation. In a garden bed out by truly using very little water and conserving
with diverse plant types, sizes and root depths, point moisture deep in the soil.They do not put on new
source drip is a complicated proposition. In windbreaks, growth during the hot season, except for desert plants.
hedges and applications similar to a vineyard or orchard,
point source drip can be an efficient way to put water We irrigate natives infrequently to allow the root zone
directly at the root zone of the plants. to dry out a bit and “breathe” in between waterings and
to keep the moisture at deep levels fairly consistent. If
In-line drip refers a system of tubing installed on a in-line drip were to be used according to manufacturer’s
pattern of parallel lines.The tubing is precisely manufac-
tured with holes (emitters) regularly spaced along the
length of the entire hose. Several considerations make
design with in-line drip a bit of a challenge.The soil type
and desired depth for effective irrigation are the deter-
mining factors in calculating the emitter flow rates,
(measured in gallons per hour, GPH each), emitter spacing
along the hose, and hose spacing on the grid pattern and
the duration of each irrigation event to allow capillary
and gravitational water to soak the entire root zone.
In-line drip is the most recent drip innovation and was

developed to supply super efficient irrigation to many
Proper in-line drip installation — after growth.
agricultural crops; vegetable fields, vineyards and
orchards.The engineers, designers, and manufacturers all
claim that its most effective use will be in applications
where the root zone is maintained consistently moist,
which requires frequent irrigations to replace water lost
in evapotranspiration.While this may be good for actively
growing, water-loving row crops such as broccoli, beans,
leafy vegetables, etc., with high and continuous evapo-
transpiration, or for encouraging summer growth on
grapes or citrus, it does not provide the proper soil
environment required by drought resistant or dry-season
adapted plants, especially in summer months when
irrigation is assumed to be needed.
Proper in-line drip installation — uniform coverage.
recommendations, the frequent irrigations needed to Avoid dry spots and/or over-saturated spots. Here’s how
maintain consistent moisture levels near the surface will it works: water moves vertically (down) through soil by
provide conditions not ideal for promoting healthy native gravity and capillary action.Water moves laterally (sideways)
plants. Use in-line drip in situations where you want to through soil only by capillary action. Capillary action is
maintain steady levels of soil moisture. For natives, in-line the way each soil particle holds water on it’s surface, and
drip will work best in small areas, in the shade, or on then passes any free water on to it’s neighboring soil
center medains and parkways where space is tight. particles. Drip irrigation relies on capillary action to get
moisture uniformly distributed throughout the root
Drip irrigation (all types practical tip) - All the zone. In sandy soils, the lateral movement of water is
principles of irrigation apply equally to all the various very limited. In clay soils, capillary action and lateral
drip configurations. “Point-source drip” irrigation applies movement are strong, but absorption rates are slow. In
a slow steady flow of water at one spot, the installed every soil type, drip systems must be engineered,
emitter. “In-line drip” functions a bit more like a soaker installed and maintained correctly.
hose in that the emitters are spaced regularly along the
entire length of pre-fab tubing.The tubing is usually The key to drip design is to have the emitters properly
hidden under the soil surface or under a layer of mulch. spaced and their flow rates properly calculated so that
In both examples, water is measured in gallons per hour the entire root zone will be saturated uniformly at the
(GPH) rather than gallons per minute (GPM), because of proper depth on every irrigation event.The sad fact is
the low flow rates. Drip is operated under low water that on many systems you see both very wet and very
pressure as well. dry spots, shallow moisture levels, uneven plant growth,
and a harmful accumulation of salts resulting from short,
The technique of drip irrigation has its challenges in all frequent waterings with poor quality water, containing
stages; design, installation, application, maintenance and high levels of total dissolved salts with high pH.
water management. Many systems require in-line filters,
air relief valves, pressure regulators and specialized The factors to be considered in designing any irrigation
fittings to operate at maximum efficiency.The list below system including drip are the evapotranspiration rates of
outlines a few of the factors to consider when using drip the plants (their water needs), and the soil type which
irrigation in an native garden. It is a common misconcep- affects penetration of water, capillary movement, and the
tion that a drip system will allow you to simply water soil’s water holding capacity. In designing drip systems
your garden on auto-pilot. Quite the contrary. Drip without this information you cannot properly determine
requires careful planning, proper installation, good the flow rate, the proper spacing of the emitters, and the
management, and a lot of maintenance. frequency and run-times for your irrigations.When a
system is installed without a calculated design, the effects
At all costs, avoid placing the emitter too close to the are often very detrimental to the planting.
crown.This will cause crown rot.With in-line systems,
avoid planting a plant right next to an emitter.This is one Since drip systems water from slightly below the surface,
of the most challenging aspects of natives on drip. you cannot know for certain that the water is running or
Install sufficient number of emitters or set the grid at the has run by simple observation, as the surface may appear
proper spacing to wet all the soil where the roots will dry or be hidden by a layer of mulch.You have to test the
grow. See WHERE TO WATER, on page 5. soil with a soil probe or by digging a small hole to
inspect the moisture level at the source, 4 inches down. this every 6 months for the first 2 years.This will create
Estimating watering needs with drip, by only observing a yet more complex network of tubing snaking through
the soil surface is very misleading. It might be bone dry the landscape, and effectively more gardening chores.
or sopping wet down where the roots are, and you have
to see it in a soil probe to know.This is also true with If you plan on digging or cultivating, hoeing weeds or
conventional overhead sprinklers, but with experience, planting new plants, you have to be careful to not cut the
an irrigator can see when the soil surface is uniformly drip hose with your garden tools. Always have repair kits
wet after an overhead irrigation, and knowing the run and spare parts handy. In a truly sustainable landscape, it
time, can also know that the roots are in moist soil.Too is assumed that cultivating and digging activities are
often, wilted or dead plants become the indicator that minimal.That said, a garden is never truly finished and
the soil is dry beneath a drip system; at which point it is many avid native plant enthusiasts like to add plants or
too late.This is especially true when the emitters are change things a bit now and then. It is quite discouraging
located beneath the soil surface. to embark on an exciting gardening project only to find
that you have severed drip hoses with your tools.
Since drip systems irrigate with no spray or sprinkle,
leaves and branches can become very dry, dusty and Contrary to popular belief, drip is not always a hands-off,
unsightly. Just like with sprinkler irrigation, the plants will auto-pilot answer to irrigation. Careful monitoring and
benefit from an occasional refreshing sprinkle or maintenance are important.
hosing off during the cooler hours of a summer day, in
between the deep-soak irrigation events.These light
sprinkles are not considered effective irrigations, but they
do promote good plant health and water conservation,
as the planting area is occasionally cooled and moistened.
Native plants do not depend on absorbing water
through their leaves during the dry season, but they may
benefit from it. Be careful to not wet the leaves during
the heat of the day... the best time is late afternoon.
If you depend on drip to consistently and uniformly apply

water to to your plants, you have to frequently inspect
the invisible system while it is running. Breaks in the line,
coyote chews, gopher damage, or clogged emitters will
ruin the system and your plants will suffer.The watering
source is effectively hidden from view, and you need to
periodically make sure everything is OK.
With point-source drip, you will have to relocate the Incorrect.This desert tree is not self sustaining and it will
eventually blow down in a future storm because the root system
emitters (move them farther from the crown) and
has only been watered in the area of the original planting hole.
continually add new ones as your plants grow and their Better to create a big basin and secondary ring to soak the soil
root systems become more extensive. Consider doing well away from the crown.
KNOW YOUR SOIL AND KNOW HOW entry of water into the soil or the soil’s ability to absorb
TO APPLY WATER water. It is related to percolation and is perhaps more
You can conduct two simple tests to determine what important to the gardener because we are providing for
kind of soil you have and how water will move through it. plants’ needs. Infiltration rates are higher in dry soils and
as the soil becomes wet to a point call field saturation
Test - Soil Texture - Identify soil type based on (when soil cannot accept more water), the rates become
percentage sand, loam and clay. Fill a clean quart jar lower. Percolation rates and infiltration are determined
about half full with soil.Take your sample in an area by soil type, but infiltration rates take into account soil
representative of root depth about 6-10 inches deep. Put conditions as well. If your soil is moist or wet, you do not
in a few drops of detergent or dish soap, fill with water need to water.
to within one inch of the top, cover and shake it all up.
With a few minutes the sand component, being the The goal is to understand infiltration as a process in
heaviest, will sink to the bottom. In a few hours the silt which water flows downward through the soil
level will be apparent resting atop the sand layer. After 24 (percolation) and is followed by air. Roots need oxygen
hours or so, the clay layer will be visible on top of the too. Our goal is to manage water and irrigate so that
silt.The water above the layers of soil might still be a bit both water and air are available to plant roots on
murky. Measure each layer with a ruler, sand, silt and as-needed basis. Remember, soil is the bank where water
clay and calculate or estimate the percentage of each in is stored so that plants can use their roots to make
relationship to the measurement of the total soil profile. withdrawals when they need it.
Use the Soil Triangle below to determine what type of
soil you have.
Test - Percolation Rate - Dig a hole about the size for

a 5-gallon plant, 16” across and 14” deep. Rough up the
sides and bottom. Fill the hole about half full of water. If
water will not stay in the hole, you probably have pure
sand as a soil type. On completion, mark the water level
and wait about 60 minutes. If your soil has absorbed no
water, you have a clay soil.This means you will need to
water infrequently and deeply because the soil takes a
long time to get wet, but it will stay wet a long time too.
If your water level has subsided an inch or more in one
hour, you have a loam soil, which is an ideal combination
of sand (40%), silt (40%) and clay (20%). If water is absorbed
faster, you have a sandy loam or loamy sand or sand.You
can research the more technical aspects of percolation
rates on the web if you want more detail. For practical
purposes, the information above should suffice.
Note - Infiltration Rate - Infiltration is the downward
DRIP DO’S AND DON’TS (ILLUSTRATED)
Salvia ‘Skylark’. Accumulated summer water concentrated too Organic bush beans at Tree of Life Nursery. Drip irrigation’s
close to the plant creates conditions for crown rot or fungal root highest and best use is in agriculture; single species, straight rows,
rot. Better to make sure water runs away from the crown and and uniformity in both root depth and the crop’s water needs. As
that the deep soak takes place at the drip line, outside the a general rule, it is difficult to correctly install, maintain and
perimeter of the branches. operate drip systems in most diverse ornamental plantings.
Manzanita. If the plant is planted too deep, root rot with summer White sage.The single drip emitter for watering this plant is
irrigation is almost inevitable, as the roots are deprived of oxygen. placed directly at the crown.This is wrong.To promote healthy
Regardless of the irrigation method, if water collects in the basin roots and prevent root rot, multiple emitters should be placed
at the plant’s crown, it is susceptible to root rot. away from the stem and periodically relocated further. Also, as
the plant grows you need to add new emitters. After a couple
years, a mature white sage would likely have 5 - 6+ emitters in a
circle 3 - 4 feet in diameter, for deep watering at the drip line.
In-line drip installation. If engineered correctly, all the soil will be

uniformly irrigated because the designer chose the emitter flow
rate and the hose spacing based on the soil type and the water
needs of the planting.
All wrong for all the reasons. If you read this paper, you can
identify all the problems.
THINK ABOUT PLASTIC

For everyone considering plastic pipe or drip irrigation,
especially homeowners with relatively small, easy to
manage outdoor spaces, you need to ask a timely
question. Do I really want scads of non-degradable
plastic, snaking every which way in my garden? In the
long run, the destiny of all used plastic including water
Turf replacement project.This in-line drip system is not installed bottles, shopping bags or watering systems, will be (at
correctly.The emitters are too close to the plants. In-line drip best) the landfill. One more reason to carefully plan your
should be engineered to wet all the soil through gravitational and water delivery system, and strive to make every garden
capillary action.You need to match the soil type and the plant’s
root depth/water needs to the emitter flow rate and hose spacing.
clean and efficient. In addition, drip hoses, arbitrarily
The goal is to provide 1 - 1.5 (up to 2) inches of precipitation with peeking into daylight though mulch layers or topdressing,
each irrigation to all the soil, with no soggy spots or dry spots. are not particularly attractive in the garden.
REGIONAL CONSIDERATIONS - In summary, as southern California regional natives

California’s south and north become mature in southern California gardens, they
A note on established mature plantings - might need less water (or none) because they become
Depending on the type of plants, established mature native naturalized with deep roots and extensive branches that
plantings may need little or no summertime irrigation, shade their root zones. As horticulturally introduced
or slightly increased quantities (not increased natives from cooler, wetter regions in the northern part
frequency) compared to when they were first planted. of the state become mature in southern California
This guide is written with a focus on the southern gardens, they will continue to need irrigation, and maybe
California region. If the plants are native in the southern with more water than initially applied during their
California region, they very well might naturalize and get establishment, in order to satisfy the needs of increased
by mostly on rainfall. If the plants are native to a cooler transpiration of larger plants (more leaves). Even the
and wetter part of California (i.e.; north coast), as natives from the cooler, wetter north will be far more
mature specimens they will need continued irrigation thrifty with water use than most so-called “California
and the garden may actually need a little more water Friendly” exotic plants.
than when it was initially becoming established, because
with more leaves, higher levels of transpiration will occur.
BENEFITS - HIDDEN AND APPARENT
This is somewhat mitigated of course by extensive roots, Aside from the simple fact that naturalistic gardens use
low branches, and leaf drop which shade the ground less water (70 - 90% savings) as compared to a typical
around the plants, conserving soil moisture. turf/flower/shrub bed garden, they also become, in their
own right, functional “ecosystems.” Sustainable native
Practical example - if you are watering a garden with landscapes are wonderful places to visit and spend time,
established shrubs in southern California, i.e., Mission interacting with song birds, butterflies, hummingbirds,
Viejo or Escondido, and the two example plants below beneficial pollinators, lizards, and other of our (to
are growing in the same planter bed, you would water to borrow a term from John Muir) “fellow mortals.” With
meet the needs of the plant that requires more summer good horticulture, we create healthy soils, clean air and
water. water, and experiential spaces where we can realize
renewal and healing. Our engagement in tending these
Lemonade berry, (Rhus integrifolia) - native to the intimate gardens proves to be in itself a healing activity.
southern California region and will naturalize. Once We invite the best of nature to come close, where we
established, no summer water needed, but added water can be part of it (and it a part of us) every day.
will be fine.
Manzanita cultivar, (Arctostaphylos densiflora ‘Howard

McMinn’) - native to northern California, Sonoma
County. Judiciously applied summer water will be needed
for this plant in southern California gardens, 1 - 1.5 (2
further inland) inches precipitation per irrigation, deep
soak, approximately once a month, May through October.
CRADLE TO MATURITY
General tips for the first two years as water needs will change.
New planting, the first 3 - 6 months

• Deep soak irrigation - hand water the plants, apply water in the basins, the
swales, and the secondary watering rings, for deep soak approximately every
3 - 4 weeks. In areas of higher evapotranspiration, you may need to water
every 2-3 weeks.The most effective way to hand water is with a soft rain nozzle
on a watering wand on a garden hose. Early mornings are best for irrigations.
• Light refreshing sprinkle - hand water or use sprinklers once or twice a

week to lightly water the leaves and wet the soil surface.With sprinklers, a
3-5-minute run time should be plenty. Do not sprinkle in heat of day and
preferably not during heat waves.Water ahead. Late afternoon times/early
evenings are best for refreshing sprinkles.
KEY POINT
Young planting, becoming established, 6 - 18 months Native plants need a fraction of the
water required to maintain traditional
• Deep soak irrigation - hand water or run sprinklers (hose end or system)
gardens. Native landscapes use about
or drip (point-source or in-line), approximately once a month to apply the
10% the amount of water to keep
recommended 1 - 1.5 (up to 2) inches precipitation. Cycle/soak or pulse turf alive and green (90% savings), and
irrigation method is best. Make sure you are watering in a soil zone that use approximately 30% of what is
includes the area around the planting hole as well as a good distance 3 - 4’ needed for most ornamental shrubs,
away from the original planting hole. Contour the soil surface so it can (on average, a 70% savings).
absorb water.
• Refreshing sprinkle - approximately once a week run sprinklers for 5 minutes or so late afternoon/early evening.
• Do not water in heat of day and preferably not during heat waves. Water ahead.
Mature planting, fully established, 18 months onward

• Deep soak irrigation - set hose-end sprinkler, run sprinkler system or drip system (irrigate by your normal method)
to apply approximately once a month to apply the recommended 1 - 2 inches precipitation. Cycle/soak or pulse
irrigation method is best.
• Refreshing sprinkle - Not absolutely necessary, but you can wash the leaves and freshen up the garden occasionally
in summer by sprinkling or hosing down the foliage in early morning or late afternoon/evening, approximately every
7-10 days.
Do not water in heat of day and preferably not during heat waves.Water ahead.
Matilija poppy. This simple planting is watered approximately once a month with a hose-end micro sprinkler. In winter, the sprinkler
goes into storage and the rains take over. Watering native plants is easy. Most native plantings will thrive without complicated
systems and automatic controls, if the people in charge simply know when, where, how, and why to water.
Tree of Life Nursery, native plants in a production shadehouse.
NOTES AND SKETCHES Scale: 1/4” =
Native plants need a fraction of the water required to maintain traditional
gardens. Native landscapes use about 10% the amount of water to keep
turf alive and green (90% savings), and use approximately 30% of what is
needed for most ornamental shrubs, (on average, a 70% savings).
Tree of Life Nursery is the largest grower

of California native Plants in the state.
Specializing in a line of plants from the
Southern California region, Tree of Life is
dedicated to providing the finest quality
of commercially available plants to the
landscaping trade and to the public. Tree of
Life believes in creating spaces that look and
feel authentically ‘Californian’.
We Grow.
www.CaliforniaNativePlants.com
Rev: 0617
Copyright © Tree of Life Nursery 2017.
All Rights Reserved.

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Watering Native Plants

Soil is the bank where water is

Refreshing sprinkle - in this article a refreshing sprinkle refers to a washing

Weather - This factor might seem

Soil type - Different soils store

Plant types - Plants from dry

Here’s how it works: Water three days in a row to

uptake. Your three days of watering will be considered

HOW MUCH TO WATER

WHERE TO WATER CONTOUR GRADING –

WATER DELIVERY METHODS

Sprinklers (spray heads) - If you have spray heads

Pulse irrigation with conventional spray heads might

Sprinklers (stream rotors) - Many older spray head

Sprinklers (all types, practical tip) - Run the

light sprinkles, should be done in the cool of the day,

In-line drip is the most recent drip innovation and was

If you depend on drip to consistently and uniformly apply

Test - Percolation Rate - Dig a hole about the size for

DRIP DO’S AND DON’TS (ILLUSTRATED)

In-line drip installation. If engineered correctly, all the soil will be

THINK ABOUT PLASTIC

REGIONAL CONSIDERATIONS - In summary, as southern California regional natives

Manzanita cultivar, (Arctostaphylos densiflora ‘Howard

New planting, the first 3 - 6 months

• Light refreshing sprinkle - hand water or use sprinklers once or twice a

Mature planting, fully established, 18 months onward

Tree of Life Nursery, native plants in a production shadehouse.

NOTES AND SKETCHES Scale: 1/4” =

Tree of Life Nursery is the largest grower

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