Sotheby's Sale of Fine Jewels To Feature Modern Jewels by Andrew Grima

Press Release London
For Immediate Release
London | +44 (0)20 7293 6000 | Matthew Weigman | [email protected] Kelly Signorelli-Chaplin | [email protected] | Simon Warren | [email protected]
Sothebys London Fine Jewellery Sale to Take Place on 14 December 2011

--- Sale will include a group of modern jewels by Andrew Grima ---
Diamond Corsage Ornament, Tiffany & Co, Circa 1920, Estimated 52,000 - 72,000*
SOTHEBYS LONDON, 6 DECEMBER 2011 Sothebys London is delighted to announce the sale of Fine Jewels which will take place on Wednesday, 14 December 2011. Comprised of 399 lots, the sale is estimated to fetch in excess of 2.2 million. The auction will include antique jewels, natural pearls, 1920s jewels and modern jewels by Andrew Grima. Commenting on the sale, Daniela Mascetti and Alexandra Rhodes, Senior International Specialists, Sotheby's Jewellery Department said: Following the recent success of Sothebys Magnificent Jewels sale in Geneva we are pleased to present for sale in London an array of jewels, ranging from 1920s jewels to contemporary designs, which will provide ample choice to collectors and to buyers looking for attractively priced Christmas gifts.
The sale will be highlighted a Diamond Corsage Ornament, Tiffany & Co, circa 1920 (est. 52,000 72,000, illustrated on page one), designed as a ribbon bow, set to the centre with a circular-cut diamond, within interlacing lines of single- and circular-cut diamonds, suspending similarly set articulated tassels, signed Tiffany & Co., brooch fitting. Bows and ribbons were a popular motif used frequently in early 20th century Garland Style jewellery. Jewels such as these used the delicate designs of the eighteenth century as their inspiration, the forms always expressing lightness and fluidity. Creations such as this appeared frequently in Tiffany & Co. works from the late 19th century through to the 1920s. Also included in the auction will be a Diamond Tiara, last quarter 19th century, estimated at 30,000-50,000 (illustrated left). Designed as a graduated row of tiered dart motifs, set with circular-cut, cushion- and pear-shaped diamonds, it was formerly a necklace/tiara and converted to sole use as a tiara in the early 20th century. The popularity of the tiara has fluctuated throughout history but has never diminished. Styles have changed dramatically throughout time, the tiara constantly evolving and answering to the demands of fashion. One element of the tiara that has never faded is its firm links and undertones of royalty, elegance and splendour. Within recent history the tiara has gone through something of a revival from Royal weddings and coronations, to Hollywood and the catwalks of today. Jewels by Andrew Grima Sothebys London will auction a group of jewels designed by Andrew Grima, including a Gold and Diamond Bracelet Paving Stones, Grima, 1973, estimated at 4,000-6,000 (illustrated to the right). Designed as a series of textured fancy links, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, this jewel was exhibited at the Grima Retrospective at Goldsmiths Hall in London in May 1991. One further example is a Cultured Pearl and Diamond Demi-Parure, Grima, 1972, estimated at 6,000-10,000 (illustrated left). The lot is comprised of a necklace of abstract design, set with white and black cultured pearls of irregular shapes, highlighted with brilliant-cut diamonds, and a pair of earrings of similar design.
Andrew Grimas original Gold and Gem-Set Ornament Super-Shells, Grima, 1972 (illustrated at the bottom of page three), uses an Australis shell to represent the body of a seal, balancing polished sapphire and ruby bead balls on its nose, on an iron pyrite rock attached to a petrified wood base. Estimated at 3,000-5,000 this piece was also exhibited at the Grima Retrospective at Goldsmiths Hall in London in May 1991. Other Highlights A notable highlight of the sale is a Gold, Enamel, Gem-Set and Diamond Brooch, Boucheron, Circa 1890, estimated at 15,000-20,000 (illustrated right). Designed as a cicada, the articulated wings decorated with plique--jour enamel and calibr-cut sapphires, the abdomen and head set with cushion-shaped, circular-cut and rose diamonds, and further set with buff top sapphires, the eyes of cabochon cat's-eye chrysoberyl. Frdric Boucheron (1830-1902) trained in Paris and soon became renowned for his highly imaginative and exquisitely crafted beautiful jewels, studied nature from life and then experimented with techniques using plique-jour enamel several decades before it was made popular by the Art Nouveau movement. A Gold and Gem-Set Bracelet, Faberg, circa 1900, designed as a series of samorodok (gold nugget) textured links inset with faceted and cabochon gemstones, including rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds, is similar to a handful of known This interesting piece is estimated at 6,000-8,000. The sale will include a group of beautiful jewels made with natural pearls, including a Pair of Natural Pearl and Diamond Earrings, estimated at 3,000-5,000 (illustrated left), with each of bomb cluster design set with natural pearls and single-cut diamonds. A beautiful Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace, composed of three rows of graduated natural pearls, to a circular clasp set with a pearl and rose diamonds, is estimated to fetch in excess of 8,000. Faberg objects of samorodok design scattered with gemstones dated to circa 1900-1910.
Notes to Editors: Andrew Grima (1921 2007) was a master of contemporary British jewellery design, at his most prolific in the 1960s and 70s. With his highly distinctive style, Grima aspired "to make gold look like material which nature might have produced"; he cast leaves and bark using the lost-wax process to develop unusual textured organic jewels in gold, this became the hallmark of his work. One such commission from HRH Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon, was to create a jewel from a piece of lichen that she had sent to Grima in 1967. Grima had no formal jewellery training, eschewing the polished mirror-like surfaces of traditional jewel design in favour of texture and abstract form. He preferred to work with gold, rather than silver or platinum, creating extraordinary and original effects. More interested in artistic impact than material value, he often chose unusual stones in unconventional shapes, using gems in their natural form such as crystalised agates, geodes and even shells in his pieces. Grima's jewels were often innovative and whimsical, adding minimal embellishments to inspire the imagination of his clients. Both modest and personable, Grima counted Royalty and filmstars amongst his clientele; he was awarded a Royal Warrant in 1966 which he held for twenty years. He won many prestigious jewellery honours including twelve De Beers International awards and the Duke of Edinburgh's Prize for Elegant Design for several pieces. A retrospective of Grima's work was displayed at Goldsmiths' Hall in the City of London to mark the occasion of his 70th Birthday in 1991. Grima's second wife Jojo together with his daughter Frances still design jewellery, keeping his unique style alive.
*Estimates do not include buyers premium Images Available Upon Request

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Press Release London

For Immediate Release

Sothebys London Fine Jewellery Sale to Take Place on 14 December 2011

*Estimates do not include buyers premium Images Available Upon Request

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