Manufacturing
Technical
Guide
Yixuan Fang
University of
Manchester ID:
10855486
Content
• 1.Introduction
• 2.Working drawing
• 3.Laying plan
• 4.Costing
• 5.Measurement
• 6.Garment breakdown
• 7.Short Sample
• 7.Reference
Introduction
Whistles is a women's contemporary fashion brand with more than 40 stores and 60 concessions in the UK,
USA, Europe, Hong Kong, and Australia. With the goal of shopping destination for the busy, dynamic woman,
they create timeless pieces with an intelligent sense of design. With an increasing presence on the global
fashion stage, they have become a destination for fashion editors and industry leaders alike, renowned for
their of-the-moment collaborations with independent brands and our emphasis on quality and longevity.
By making the shorts, every detail has a crucial impact on the finish of the shorts and so the workshop has
been improving every detail of the shorts over the last few weeks. Each part has a fixed figure and the
amount of fabric consumed, so it is vital to standardise the fabric, trims, stitches and seams. Any
discrepancies in the data will affect the quality of the product produced by the tailors.If sizes are not
accurately calculated, this may result in the waist and crotch not fitting the customer's body, which will
result in fewer customers being satisfied with the product, which will result in more returns or complaints
from customers, which will result in the brand's reputation being affected.
The quality of whistles' products is of paramount importance, so the same shape of shorts is experimented
with many times during the production process, and different colours are produced in separate lines and
bought into the interface, which guarantees quality. Also,an important factor that would affect the quality
would be the chosen of fabric,the calico fabric is the main material of the shorts, it is cheap and 100%
cotton , but the color is quite single.So for the next stage it must follow the popular color to make it creative.
Women aged 35 and onwards was the original target audience; a similar age to Lucille Lewin who was the
owner and creative director of the company. This correlation between designer and client is what enabled
Whistles to grow rapidly, as the audience was understood and reflected through Lucille.For a change in the
construction of the shorts, a button above the zip would ensure that the zip does not shift in response to the
user's movements. A lining can also be added to the shorts to ensure comfort and a 514 stitch can be
chosen for the locking hem for better stability.
For the price, whistles is aimed at the target group with certain spending power, so the price is moderately
high, from £40 to £60 is a reasonable range, the general size range is set at 24-34(6-18), because this is
relatively basic shorts style, so in the application of the range is also more extensive, whistles also pay more
attention to the selection of fabrics to improve the comfort and quality, which is also their customers need,
whistles' shorts style summary is also shown in figure1.
figure1
Working Drawing
Season:AW22/23
Sample Garment:Shorts
Other information
figure1
• In the fashion industry, where the product must be made accurately, you’d be hard pressed to find a
pattern cutter who would work with you without them as the design sketch can sometimes lead to
inaccurate proportions.Simply put, they’re a two-dimensional linear, diagrammatical rendition of your
designs drawn in solid line, depicting as much detail as possible.They are the graphic, clearly drawn an figure3
explanation of the product, showing all the construction details, such as seams, darts, pockets,
fastenings and topstitching.（ Moni Omotoso -6th February 2019）
• Since 301(figure1) is the main lockstitch of the shorts。Its main advantage is that it looks the same on
the top as it does on the bottom [it is reversible]. It produces tight, strong, low-bulk seams but its main
disadvantages are low elongation and low productivity due to the need to frequently change the under
thread bobbin.(coats,2017)
• Also it can be seen that 504 stitch (figure2)use widely in this shorts.This stitch type is formed with three
thread; it has one needle thread and two looper threads. Stitch type 504 has excellent extension and
does not unravel easily. It is generally used for serging to stop fabric fraying and for joining 2 or more
plies together. These machines are capable of running at higher speeds which can aid in increased
productivity.(coats,2017)
• The size range of the shorts is 6-8,the sample is based on size 12
• the shorts is made from the calico fabric,Calico Fabric is loom state, un-dyed, untreated natural cotton
made with a low thread count. This is a l(figure3)ow cost cotton Fabrics and is one of the oldest
cottons. Due to the plain, unbleached properties and its low cost it is often used by fashion designers
and dressmakers to make sample pieces. Calico Fabric is a coarse fabric and is a good choice for
items that are required to be sturdy and long lasting such as bags and aprons.(calicolaine,2018)
• Due to the nature of the fabric chosen, the shorts are made in a natural cream colour and the zip is red,
however it is not visible as there is a zip guard to keep the shorts looking good.
figure2
Laying plan
Season:AW22/23 Sample garment:Shorts
• NO • PATTERN NAME • TOTAL NUMBER OF • INSTRUCTIONS to CUTTER
PATTERN PIECES
1 Front cut2 cut on the straight grain SAMPLE LAY PLAN
2 waist band cut1 cut on the straight grain
FABRIC TYPE:Calico Fabric
WIDTH OF FABRIC CM:135CM=1.35M
3 back cut2 cut on the straight grain TOTAL FABRIC LENGTH CM USED =71CM（ Half Scale
Fabric Length Used 35.5cm Full Scale Fabric Length 35.5 cm
4 zipguard cut1 cut on the straight grain x2 = 71cm）
Other Information
Several basic parameters influencing productivity and work efficiency have to be taken into
consideration when planning work processes in a cutting room. Among processes of cutting room
lay planning is the most important. They can only be carried out when production orders of fabrics
include the following information: technical documentation of all ordered styles, sets of pattern
pieces for all the styles, style samples, fabric specifications, and fabric samples.（Johanara，2013）
The sample for the layout plan is size 12 and an unreasonable layout plan may waste more space
and therefore increase the cost of making shorts
The templates have to be laid in way that takes account of the directional properties of the fabric,
such as thread directions, pattern direction, and grain of nap or pile. It may also be necessary to
allow for matching of stripes, checks, or designs.
Costing
COSTING SHEET TRIMS & FABRIC SAMPLE GARMENT:SHORTS DATE/SEASON: AW22/23
FABRIC TYPE COMPOSITION METRES COST in £ WIDTH SUPPLIER TOTAL
USED
FABRIC calico 0.71m £4.56/m 135cm Whaleys £3.24
100% cotton Bradford
https://www.wha
leys-
calico
bradford.ltd.uk/a
fabric
zip interfacing yarn
-z/calico-fabric
INTERFACING / washable iron 0.25m £0.45/m 90cm Vilene £0.11
other information
FUSIBLE on https://www.willi
amgee.co.uk/sho
p/vilene-iron-on- • Once a design has been added to the line, costing in the next
fusible- stage helps in the formation of line budgets and set up a base
interlinings-h250/
selling price. Costing also assists in justification of procurement
TRIMMING TYPE COMPOSITION METRES COST in £ SIZE SUPPLIER of new equipment or capacity expansion investments.
USED （stitchdiary，2018）
ZIP TYPE plastic spiral £0.08 20cm YKK £0.08
teeth gauge1 https://www.ykkf • All data details are statistically calculated based on the samples
astening.com/pr manufactured, the size of which is 12.
oducts/zipper/
• Fabric is the most significant factor in garment costing. It
THREAD / YARN 100% multi 117m £0.8/5000m Laura's loom £0.02
filament https://www.laur
accounts for 60-70% of the total cost of manufacturing a
asloom.co.uk/sh garment. Fabrics include materials like trims, buttons, thread,
op/ zippers, elastics, etc. Label costs depend on the size and
material you choose. Packaging costs depend on the cost of
TOTAL £ hand tags or price tags used for packing the garment.
£3.45
（ govisetech ，2021）The costing here is for raw materials only
and does not cover package and label costs.
Measurement Season:AW22/23 Sample garment:Shorts
LANDMARK MEASUREMENT DESCRIPTION CM Tolerances
A A FRONT WAIST 37 +/- 0.5
B
G B WAISTBAND DEPTH 3 +/- 0.1
C SIDE SHORT LENGTH 41 +/- 0.5
C F D FRONT HEM DEPTH 3.2 +/- 0.1
E E FRONT SHORT LENGTH 47 +/- 0.5
F ZIPPER LENGTH 21 +/- 0.5
G FRONT DART LENGTH 10 +/- 0
D BACK SHORT
H BACK WAIST WIDTH 37 +/- 0.5
I BACK SHORT DART LENGTH 10 +/- 0.1
J BACK LONG DART LENGTH 13 +/- 0.0
K BACK HEM DEPTH 3.2 +/- 0.1
ADDITIONAL
H MEASUREMENT
S
I WAIST TOTAL MEASUREMENT 74
J HEM TOTAL MESUREMENT 6.5
Other information
Measurement based on a size 12 sample.
K Darts have zero tolerance because they are quite small.
Garment Breakdown
Seam I.S.O Stitch Needle Type & S.P.IStitches S.ASeamAllow
Op No Operation – Description Machine type Thread Type Tolerance
Classification Type Size per Inch ance
Make sure that the material corresponds
to the front or back of the short, find the
notches on the fabric, pinch the fabric core spun
Ball-point +/- 1mm
1 together, and then divide and confirm the lockstitch class1 or multi 301 70/10-100/16
10—12
position of the front and back so that
filament
there are two darts on the front and four
on the back.
core spun
Piecing together the fabric from the back Ball-point
or multi 10—12 2.0cm on
2 section.Piecing the front fabric, leaving lockstitch class1 301 70/10- +/- 1mm
both side
the zip open filament 100/16
core spun Ball-point
over lock central front seam and both side 3 thread 10—12
3 class1 or multi 504 70/10- +/- 1mm
seams on both front and back panels over locker 100/16
filament
This step involves placing the zip on the front of the
shorts by first aligning the top of the zip with the top
of the front piece and then sewing the right side of
the zip to the right back panel, making sure that the
stitches are close enough to the side of the zip as
you go along. When half of the zip is sewn it is
necessary to stop and open the zip downwards so
that the stitching can be completed without
lockstitch core spun or Ball-point 10—12
5 damaging the seam allowance, then continue to the class1 multi filament 70/10-100/16
+/- 1mm
bottom (where the fabric edges should be flush).
The zip then needs to be closed in order to carry out
the left side stitching (repeat the same steps but on
this side) and the stitching process can be done
directly over the bottom zip at the right place, this
will not affect the final result, in order to fix this zip at
the bottom of the zip at 90 degrees to the left and
right side stitches.
fold zip guard in half and overloc.With the zip guard
3 thread core spun or Ball-point 10—12
6 the zipper has a protection and does not rub against
over locker class1 multi filament 70/10-100/16
+/- 1mm
the skin in any way.
The front and back of the trousers will be joined 1.5cm on
together and the shape of the trousers will be visible, core spun or Ball-point 10—12
7 but you will need to leave a 1.5cm gap in the seam
lockstitch class1 multi filament 70/10-100/16
+/- 1mm both side
allowance to allow for overlocking.
3 thread core spun or
Ball-point
8 overlock the hem of the short side seam. over locker class1 multi filament
70/10-100/16
10—12 +/- 1mm
Press the short side of the overlock with the iron to
9 give it an open seam, this also makes it easier to press
The crotch is stitched together and by this time
the short is only a little closer to completion, class1 core spun or
Ball-point 1.5cm on
11 still leaving some room for the next step of
lockstitch multi filamen 70/10-100/16 10—12 +/- 1mm
both side
overlocking.
3 thread core spun or
Ball-point 10—12
12 overlock the crotch part over locker class1 multi filament
70/10-100/16
+/- 1mm
Iron the fusible interfacing onto the
short waistband panel(making sure
13 Press
put the right side of interfacing on
the fabric)
To attach the waistband to the short, unfold the
top waistband that was ironed down and match
this up with the top of theshort(notches should
14 be used).Then fold over the waist band (as it
Press
was ironed domn it should automatically be in
the right place once folded)
core spun or
sew the waistband throgh the last step to Ball-point 10—12
15 secure it.
lockstitch class1 multi filament
70/10-100/16
+/- 1mm
16 press the entire short for a crisp and then finish press
Other information
• Each garment is constructed by number of stitching jobs and non-sewing jobs. Jobs or activity involved in
making a garment is known as operations. In industrial garment manufacturing, prior to making the garments,
the sample is studied and list of required operations for making the approved design are made. The operations
are written in a sequence of actual process flow to be followed while making the garment in the shop floor.
• A three-thread overlocker is used primarily for sewing knitted and woven fabrics of light to medium weight.
This is because it uses one needle thread, which allows for more flexibility and fewer bulky seams.
• On some operations like serge panels, it may be desirable to use a longer stitch length.So it may be more
useful to apply 10-12 SPI during making the shorts
• The lockstitch class 300 is the most commonly used, as a complete garment can be sewn on a lockstitch
machine. These stitches are formed by a needle thread or threads, introduced from one side of the material,
interlacing with an under-thread supplied from a bobbin on the other side.
• In line with many of the aspects mentioned above, the problems that cause seam defects and failure can also
be addressed to the technology used in the production of seams. Although some research and improvements
have been carried out in this field, the sewing process has remained almost unchanged over the years, staying
largely dependent on the skills of the operator to set up sewing parameters and to handle the fabrics being
sewn. Slight changes in the machine settings can have a large influence on the quality of the obtained seams
and of the end-products, as well as sewing operation time.
Short Sample
By comparing these two size charts you
can see the difference between sample
front back size 12 and other sizes
Reference
