Lesson 13: Tutorial: copying the 'emerald cut' design from an online

diagram

Welcome, my students, to the thirteenth lesson of my video course on how to use

Gem Cut Studio to achieve optical and dimensional simulations of gemstones before
their actual creation, thus avoiding waste of expensive raw crystals. I am Matteo
Oberto, the author of this course.
In this video lesson, we will focus on into a practical tutorial that will allow you to
practice with emerald-cut designs, also known as a “step cut.” Within the precious
gem industry, there are thousands of different designs, but only a handful of them
have stood the test of time and gained widespread usage. We have already covered
the round brilliant design, which is typically employed for diamonds or gemstones
with a high refractive index. The brilliant design aims to maximize the gemstone's
brilliance through faceting. On the other hand, the emerald-cut design finds great
popularity among gemstones with captivating and desirable colors. This design
enhances the color intensity of the gemstone, particularly when the color is subtle.
Conversely, the brilliant design tends to diminish the overall color while emphasizing
brilliance.
Understanding the characteristics and effects of different designs is crucial for
gemstone cutters and designers. It allows them to make informed decisions about
which design will best enhance the unique qualities of a particular gemstone. By
selecting the appropriate design, they can optimize the visual appeal of the
gemstone and ensure its beauty is showcased to its fullest potential.
Throughout this tutorial, we will explore the step-by-step process of creating an
emerald-cut gemstone using Gem Cut Studio. Remember, the journey of learning
gemstone cutting and design is a blend of scientific knowledge, artistic expression,
and practical application. By immersing yourself in these practical tutorials, you will
acquire the skills necessary to bring your creative visions to life.
Furthermore, any flaws in the gemstone such as inclusions, small fractures, or color
zoning tend to be better concealed in step-cut designs, especially in the volume near
the girdle. The central part of the gemstone should ideally be as free from inclusions
and defects as possible. However, when working with natural material, it is
impossible to completely eliminate all defects in the crystal. So, It is normal to
encounter flaws, but our task is to minimize their impact or, preferably, remove them
during the cutting process. An alternative approach is to hide the flaws in areas of the
gemstone that are less visible from the outside and have minimal impact on the
overall optics.
By strategically positioning facets and carefully planning the arrangement of the step-
cut design, gem cutters can effectively mitigate the appearance of any imperfections,
ensuring that the gemstone's visual appeal is not compromised. The linear nature of
the step-cut design, with its long, parallel facets, provides opportunities to hide or
minimize the visibility of flaws within the gemstone.
In addition to concealing flaws, the step-cut design also allows the gemstone's color
to take center stage. With fewer facets and a more straightforward arrangement, the
step-cut design offers a clean and elegant canvas for displaying the gemstone's
natural hue. The broad, flat planes of the step-cut facets create larger windows
through which light can pass, enabling the color to be more prominently showcased.
This is especially advantageous when working with gemstones that possess rich and
captivating colors, as the step-cut design can intensify the color saturation.
The step-cut design's emphasis on color and its ability to mask flaws make it a
popular choice for various gemstones, including emeralds and tourmalines. Each
gemstone has its own unique characteristics and challenges, and the step-cut design
can be tailored to maximize their individual beauty. By selecting the right proportions,
facet angles, and dimensions, gem cutters can bring out the best in each gemstone,
elevating its visual impact and desirability.
Remember, the step-cut design not only offers a visually striking aesthetic but also
serves as a canvas for expressing the unique qualities of each gemstone. By
mastering the techniques involved in creating step-cut gemstones, you will expand
your repertoire as a gemstone cutter and designer.
Let's now open our Gem Cut Studio software and create together your first emerald-
cut design. When you open the software, you will see the initial cube. Since we need
to create a rectangular cut, we must adjust the parameters and transform the cube
into a parallelepiped. It's very simple to do. Just click on "set starting ratio" located at
the bottom right of the cube. Enter the desired values for L, W, and H, keeping in mind
that these values correspond to the dimensional parameters you read on each cutting
diagram. In our case, L/W is 1.2, so we enter 1.2 for L. Click OK, and there you have
it—the parallelepiped shape.
Now, let's start with the pavilion and the lower facets. They have an inclination of
41 degrees, and the first facet is number 96, with a symmetry of 2. Keep descending
until you achieve a simple segment instead of a point. Click on CUT, and voila, we have
our first two pavilion facets. Maintain a symmetry of 2 and an inclination of 41. Let's
move to the next tier with facet number 24. Descend until you reach this
configuration, then confirm the facets. The new tier will have an inclination of 45,
while maintaining the previous facet order.
Follow the setup for the pavilion facets as I'm demonstrating right now. At this point,
let's slightly close the girdle, and there we have our simple emerald cut with a
rectangular profile.
Please note that many emerald cuts have octagonal profiles, so instead of sharp
edges, you will see chamfered edges and triangular facets. I encourage you to
challenge yourself and practice these types of cuts as they are highly appreciated by
the public.
Now, let's move on to the crown. Keeping the same elongated rectangular facet style,
let's start descending with facet number 96, symmetry 2, and an inclination of 35
degrees until we close the girdle as desired. Next, move to facet number 24,
maintaining the same symmetry and inclination as before.
Proceed with the next tier using the same approach and sequence but decreasing the
inclination to 15 degrees. Finally, close our gemstone with the table facet. There you
have it—an emerald-cut gemstone with a very simple design.
It's possible to create many other variations by adjusting the inclination and
maintaining the sequence of facets illustrated for both the pavilion and the girdle.
Additionally, you can add triangular facets to soften the corners.
Attached to this video course, you will find a convenient database and archive of
cuts that I have already prepared for you. This will allow you to practice and explore
more complex designs. I have included dozens of modifications to this emerald cut,
providing you with a wide range of options to experiment with.