Slides - Sulfate-Free Webinar

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Sulfate-Free – What’s Wrong with Sulfates

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and Are the Alternatives Any Better?

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Speaker: Paul Cornwell, PhD

June 3, 2020 | SCC Webinars
Copyright by Presenter. Produced as Part of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Continuing Education Program (CEP).
Unauthorized Reproduction or Distribution is Prohibited Without Prior Written Consent of Presenter and SCC.
Purchased for the exclusive use of Priyanka Rs (52566)

From: SCC Media Library & Resource Center (library.scconline.org)
2
Welcome!
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Sulfate-Free – What’s Wrong with Sulfates
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and Are the Alternatives Any Better?
ER RE ED
Paul Cornwell, PhD – TRI Princeton
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An online collaboration between the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and TRI Princeton
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Moderators: Kelly Dobos & Perry Romanowski, SCC Education Advisory Committee
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3
Overview
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Sulphate-free trend
IS O T

O
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 Sulphate surfactants
Benefits of sulphate surfactants in cleansing products
ER RE ED

 Concerns about sulphate surfactants

TH R T

O O H
Surfactant selection + sulphate alternatives
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 Formulating sulphate-free, the challenges
O OT YR
 Conclusions
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4
Sulphate-free trend
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IS O T
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O OT YR
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5
Sulphate-free trend
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Figure from - Mabille, C. Solvay’s Solutions for Shampoos Without Sulfated Surfactants. In-Cosmetics Global Amsterdam (2018)

6
Sulphate surfactants
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N
 Alkyl and alkyl ether sulphates are the most widely
.
TR DU E
O
N
used primary surfactants (SLS, SLES, ALS, ALES)
IS O T
O
R O S O- Na+
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Lauryl alcohol usually from palm oil, hence blends
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
of chain lengths C12-C14. Average chain length is O
ER RE ED
C12 (hence, lauryl)
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 Petrochemical sourced alcohols are also effective
O O H O
(e.g. sodium C12-13 pareth sulphate1)
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 Introduction of ether groups, reduces CMC and R (OCH2CH2)n O S O- Na+

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improves skin mildness O

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 Usually buy SLES 1EO – 3EO, although SLS also

usually present
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1. Condon, B.D. and Matheson, K.L. A comparison of surfactants derived from alcohols based on
petrochemical and oleochemical sources. J Am Oil Chem Soc. 71(1):53-9 (1994)

7
Sulphate surfactants
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 Phase behaviour varies with concentration1
.
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IS O T
O
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 Micelles → rods → hexagonal phase → lamellar phase
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→ inverse hexagonal Phase → inverse Micelles
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 Viscosity drops > 70% active and lamellar phase is
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formed
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 Net result – cheap to transport!

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1. Donaldson, B.R. and Messenger, E.T. Performance characteristics and solution properties of
surfactants in shampoos. Int J Cosmet Sci. 1:71-90 (1979)

8
Sulphate surfactants - synthesis
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 Ethoxylation of fatty alcohol to generate alcohol ethoxylated feedstocks
.
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N
IS O T
 Ethoxylation is performed by reacting fatty alcohols with ethylene oxide under basic conditions
O
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 A range of ethoxoylates are made
ER RE ED
TH R T
O O H
R F IG
O OT YR
 Sulphation of fatty alcohol and/or alcohol ethoxylate

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 Sulphation usually by sulphur trioxide, followed by neutralisation with NaOH or Ammonium hydroxide
 Dioxane can be formed during sulphonation as a side reaction (depends in degree of ethoxylation, alkyl chain
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branching, reaction conditions etc)

9
Benefits of sulphate surfactants
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N
.
Cleansing
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a)
N
IS O T
O
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b) Foaming
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c) Rheology control
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O O H
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d) Polymer deposition
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10
Benefits of sulphates - cleansing
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 Cleansing – primary function of shampoos
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and wash products
IS O T
O
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Dry shampoo A
 Sulphates proven to be very effective in all
ER RE ED
Dry shampoo B
types of soil removal (oils, particulates and
deposited products)
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Cleans. Cond. A
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Cleans. Cond. B
 Sebum removal assay shows effective
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cleansing after just one wash with a SLES Std. shampoo

based product
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Water
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Figure from - Mittal S., Cornwell P. A., Gourion-Arsiquaud S. Determination of sebum

removal from hair tresses using ATR-FTIR spectroscopy: An investigation of the cleansing
efficiency of dry shampoos and cleansing conditioners. HairS’ Conference, Sept 6-8 2017,
Dresden

11
Benefits of sulphates - foaming
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IS O T
 Key preference driver for wash products
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 Not correlated to cleansing power
ER RE ED

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Sulphates give excellent flash foam and foam
O O H
volume
R F IG
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12
Benefits of sulphates – rheology control
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N
 For alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether
.
TR DU E
N
sulphates addition of salt changes
IS O T
O
D PR MA
headgroup packing (and Pc) and converts
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micelles to wormlike rods, increasing
ER RE ED
viscosity
TH R T

O O H
Cheap & cheerful way of building viscosity
R F IG
O OT YR
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Image from - Schrader, K. and Domsch, A. 5.2 Shampoos. In: Cosmetology - Theory and
Practice: Research, Test, Methods, Analysis, Formulas. (K. Schrader, A. Domsch, ed.), pp.
9-36. Verlag für Chemische Industrie, Bobingham (2005)

13
Benefits of sulphates – polymer deposition
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N
Cationic polymers are included in shampoos to deliver wet
.

TR DU E
N
IS O T
conditioning benefits and deposition of actives
O
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 Cationic polymers can deposit on the hair during the washing
ER RE ED
process1 (see figure on next slide). The basis of 2-in-1
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technology O O H
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 Cationic polymers work well with sulphate based systems
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1. Goddard, E.D. and Hannan, R.B. Cationic polymer/anionic surfactant interactions. J Colloid
Interface Sci. 55, 73-79 (1976)

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Benefits of sulphates – polymer deposition
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Stage 1. Stage 2. Stage 3.
 At 1-5 to 1-10 dilution
.
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_ _ __
N
_
cationic polymers flocculate _
IS O T
_
_ _ __
O
+
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and adhere to hair _ _ __ +_ _ _
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_
_ _
_ _
_ _ _
_ _ __ _ _ _ _
++
+
_ _ __
+
_ _ __ _
+
ER RE ED
_ _ _ _
_
Flocculated polymer provides _
+
++
 _
_ _ __ _
_ _ __
_
+ _
++
a ‘gel-like’ coating that gives
+
+_ _
TH R T
_ _ __ _
_
+
_ _
O O H _ _
excellent wet lubrication _
_ _ __
_
_ _ __
R F IG
_ _ __
+
_
_
_ +
_ _ __
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 On dilution, polymers
become charged and adhere
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Concentrated Diluted surfactant – Diluted surfactant –

in a thinner film giving dry surfactant - soluble insoluble soluble
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lubrication

15
Concerns
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 Sulphates irritate the skin
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 Sulphates have toxic impurities
ER RE ED
 Sulphates are un-natural
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 Sulphates are not kind to the environment
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16
Mildness
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17
Mildness
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 What is mildness?
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IS O T
 Absence stinging, burning, itching, tightness and smarting
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(Sensitive Skin)1
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 Absence of more serious skin irritation (irritant contact
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dermatitis) – Tested using in vivo skin patch tests1
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 Absence of skin sensitisation (allergic contact dermatitis) –
O O H
Tested using in vivo skin patch tests and human repeated insult
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patch tests1
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 Absence of eye irritation – Tested in vitro using the red blood

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cell test2 and newer in vivo and in vitro tests

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 Absence of skin barrier disruption and skin dryness

1. Cornwell, P. and Goodwin, J. Designing mild personal care products: A case study. Cosm & Toil.
127(10):706-16 (2012)
2. Pape, W.J.W. and Pfannenbecker, U.H. Validation of the red blood cell test system as in vitro assay for
the rapid screening of irritation potential of surfactants. Molecular Toxicology. 1, 525-536 (1987)

18
Mildness
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N
.
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 Surfactant-protein interactions and In vitro and in vivo correlation on zein test1
N
IS O T
O
mechanisms of skin irritation are now well
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understood
 In vitro zein tests can predict skin irritation
ER RE ED
 Furthermore, structure-activity relationships
can predict zein scores
TH R T
O O H
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 Typically surfactant irritancy runs: (highly
O OT YR
irritant) SLS and soap > (moderately

irritating) cationics and SLES > (low irritancy)
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APGs and betaines

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1. Lips, A., Anathapadmanabhan, K.P., Vethamuthu, M., Hua, X.Y., Yang, L., Vincent, C., et al. Role
of surfactant micelle charge in protein denaturation and surfactant-induced skin irritation. In:
Surfactants in Personal Care and Decorative Cosmetics Third Edition. (L.D. Rhein, M. Schlossman, A.
O'Lenick, P. Somasundaran, eds.), pp. 177-187. CRC Press, Boca Raton (2007).

19
Mildness
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But, mildness to skin proteins and mildness to skin
.

TR DU E
N
IS O T
lipids is often conflicting1
O
D PR MA
TI
ER RE ED
 For example, increasing the level of a mild
amphoteric (CAPB) in a SLES/CAPB blend
TH R T
reduces protein damage but increases lipid
O O H
removal (see graph)
R F IG
O OT YR
 So…..alternatives to sulphates may irritate skin

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less, but might be more drying. You need to find

a happy medium
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1. Ananthapadmanabhan, K.P., Yang, L., Vincent, C., Tsaur, L., Vetro, K., Foy, V., et
al. A novel technology in mild and moisturising cleaning liquids. Cosmet Dermatol.
22(6), 307-316 (2009)

20
Mildness
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In reality, sulphates are always blended with a
.

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IS O T
secondary surfactant (e.g. CAPB) to improve
O
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mildness to skin
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ER RE ED
 Well formulated blends, using SLES and mild
TH R T
co-surfactant/s, are usually reasonably gentle
O O H
to the skin, and as mild, or milder than some
R F IG
sulphate-free alternatives
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 Sulphates, formulated correctly, can be mild to

the skin, and sulphate-free doesn’t guarantee
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mildness (see soap!)

Figure from - Takagi, Y., Shimizu, M., Morokuma, Y., Miyaki, M., Kiba, A., Matsuo, K.,
et al. A new formula for a mild body cleanser: sodium laureth sulphate supplemented with
sodium laureth carboxylate and lauryl glucoside. Int J Cosmet Sci. 36(4):305-11 (2014)

21
Safety
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IS O T
O
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TH R T
O O H
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O OT YR
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C

22
Safety – and philosophy
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Sulphate-free Standard approach
.
TR DU E
N
IS O T
O
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or
ER RE ED
Precautionary principle Prevention principle
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O O H
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 Unknown levels of risk  Measurable risks
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 Perceived major consequences  Effective risk prevention measures

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(‘too late to go back’)  Regulations and quality control

processes in place
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 Avoid risk completely

23
Safety
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IB C RIA
N
What is 1,4-dioxane?
.

TR DU E
N
IS O T
O
D PR MA
TI
 Trace ingredient found in many ethoxylated raw
materials, such as SLES and other PEG-based
ER RE ED
surfactants
TH R T
O O H
R F IG
 Not dioxin!!
O OT YR
 Volatile liquid at room temperature

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 In EU classified as Category 2 CMR (suspected of

causing cancer); US EPA classified as “likely to be
carcinogenic to humans”

24
Safety
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
.
What is safe?
TR DU E

N
IS O T
O
D PR MA
TI
 Lifetime Cancer Risk (LCR) of 10-5 = Tolerable risk level for potential carcinogens in foods,
cosmetics, water and air
ER RE ED

TH R T
An LCR of 10-5 = 1 additional person with cancer per 1½ year in a population of 5 million 1. Put
O O H
another way, 27,500 people in a population of 5 million are diagnosed with cancer every year,
R F IG
so this would rise to 27,501 over 1 ½ years …which is well below the level of verification
O OT YR
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 An LCR of 10-5 = Equivalent risk of smoking of 30 cigarettes during the lifetime (1/2 cigarette
per year for 60 years [age 16 to age 76])
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1. SCCS/1570/15 SCCS opinion on the Report of the ICCR Working Group:

Considerations on Acceptable Trace Level of 1,4-Dioxane in Cosmetic Products (2015)

25
Safety
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
.
What is acceptable exposure?
TR DU E

N
IS O T
O
D PR MA
TI
 EU proposes a limit of 10 ppm in finished product1
ER RE ED
The exposure limit (by ingestion) for humans = 55 µg 1,4-dioxane per day over a lifetime1
TH R T

O O H
R F IG
 10 ppm trace levels give total exposure of 87 µg 1,4-dioxane per day (assuming a daily
O OT YR
dose of cosmetics = 17.4 g per day, and 50% dermal absorption)1

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1. SCCS/1570/15 SCCS opinion on the Report of the ICCR Working Group:

Considerations on Acceptable Trace Level of 1,4-Dioxane in Cosmetic Products (2015)

26
Safety
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
 How much are we exposed to today?
.
TR DU E
N
IS O T
O
D PR MA
>92% cosmetic and household products analysed
TI

in 2012 contain less than 10 ppm 1,4-dioxane
ER RE ED
(not all of which comes from SLES!)1
TH R T
O O H
Good quality 70% SLES currently contains < 14
R F IG

ppm 1,4-dioxane2. Dilution to 10% SLES in a
O OT YR
product would give < 2 ppm

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 So, provided dioxane levels are controlled, SLES

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is safe to use
1. SCCS/1570/15 SCCS opinion on the Report of the ICCR Working Group: Considerations
on Acceptable Trace Level of 1,4-Dioxane in Cosmetic Products (2015)
2. Personal communication – leading European SLES manufacturer

27
Natural
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
.
TR DU E
N
IS O T
O
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TI
ER RE ED
TH R T
O O H
R F IG
O OT YR
N OP
C

28
Natural
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
.
TR DU E
N
 No agreed legal definition of ‘natural’
IS O T
O
D PR MA
Certification standards exist (e.g. ISO, Ecocert,
TI

NATRUE, COSMOS)
ER RE ED
 Bio-renewable Carbon Index (BCI) is a widely used
TH R T
measure 1 O O H
 Natural Origins Index from ISO16128:1 can also be
R F IG
used if sourcing is understood completely, but it
O OT YR
includes sodium and sulphur…are they natural?

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1. Mudge, S.M., Tropsch, J., Beaudouin, T., Séné, C. and Hormazabal, H. Determining the Bio-
Based Carbon Content of Surfactants. Journal of Surfactants and Detergents DOI
10.1002/jsde.12411 (2020)

29
Natural
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
.
TR DU E
N
SLS gives 100% BCI score as it
IS O T

O
D PR MA
is ethoxylate-free!
TI
ER RE ED
 APGs give 100% BCI scores
TH R T

O O H
SLES using esters derived from
R F IG
natural sugars give 100% BCI
O OT YR
scores
N OP
 Sulphates can be made from

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natural feed-stocks, depends on

the material

30
Environment
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
.
TR DU E
N
IS O T
O
D PR MA
TI
ER RE ED
TH R T
O O H
R F IG
O OT YR
N OP
C

31
Environment
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
.
TR DU E
 Many suppliers are moving towards 100%
N
IS O T
sustainable palm oil as a feedstock
O
D PR MA
TI
 Finished goods manufacturers are also working
ER RE ED
towards sourcing ingredients made from 100%
sustainable palm
TH R T
O O H
R F IG
 Still some way to go wrt information for
O OT YR
consumers
N OP
 Future opportunities lie in biotechnology

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 Beware alternative surfactants!

32
Environment
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
Mechanism of biodegradation of SLES
.
TR DU E
N
IS O T
 Laboratory tests and environmental
O
D PR MA
monitoring suggest that current levels
TI
of alkyl and alkyl ether sulphates
ER RE ED
used in products present no hazard to
the environment1
TH R T
O O H
R F IG
 SLS and SLES are both ‘readily’ and
‘ultimately’ biodegrable1
O OT YR
N OP
 If properly sourced, sulphates are not

unkind to the environment
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1. Gilbert, P.A. and Pettigrew, R. Surfactants and the environment. Int J Cosmet Sci.
6:149-58 (1984)

33
Surfactant selection
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
.
TR DU E
Primary surfactants are found at the highest concentration and are fundamental
N

IS O T
to formulation properties. Commonly used are anionic surfactants; SLS, SLES,
O
D PR MA
ALS, ALES
TI
ER RE ED
 Secondary surfactants are added to boost mixtures in a particular direction,
e.g. mildness. Commonly used are amphoteric surfactants; CAPB, coco-betaine,
TH R T
and non-ionic surfactants; cocamide MEA, cocamide MIPA
O O H
R F IG
 The ‘big question’ – go safe with commonly used surfactants or innovate with a
O OT YR
new blend?
N OP
 A lot to consider; cleaning, foaming, rheology control, mildness, polymer

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deposition, cost, environmental sustainability, pH for preservative system and

processing issues

34
Alternatives
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
 Carboxylates – ether carboxoylates (e.g. laureth-5-carboxoylic acid) – mild
.
TR DU E
N
IS O T
O
D PR MA
R O (CH2CH2O)5 CH2 C O- Na+
TI
O
ER RE ED
TH R T
 Carboxylates – glucose carboxylates (e.g. sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate) - mild
O O H
R F IG
CH2 OH
O OT YR
R O O
H H
N OP
H OH
H O CH2 C O- Na+
OH H O
C

35
Alternatives
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
 Carboxylates – acyl glutamates (e.g. sodium lauryl glutamate) – mild
.
TR DU E
N
O- Na+
IS O T
O
D PR MA
C
O
TI
R C NH CH CH2 CH2 C O- Na+
O O
ER RE ED
 Carboxylates – acyl sarcosinates (e.g. sodium lauroyl sarcosinate) – mild
TH R T
O O H
CH3
R F IG
R C N CH2 C O- Na+
O OT YR
O O
N OP
 Sulphonates – taurates (e.g. sodium methyl cocoyl taurate) – good stability, good foam
C
CH3
O
R C N CH2 CH2 S O- Na+

O O

36
Alternatives
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
 Sulphonates – sulphoacetates (e.g. sodium lauryl sulfoacetate) - mild
.
TR DU E
N
IS O T
O
O
D PR MA
TI
R O C CH2 S O- Na+
O O
ER RE ED
 Sulphonates – sulphosuccinates (e.g. disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate) – mild
TH R T O- Na+
O O H
O S
R F IG
O
R O C CH2 CH C O- Na+
O OT YR
O O
N OP
 Sulphonates – isethionates (e.g. sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate) – good foam

C
CH3
O
R O C CH CH2 S O- Na+
O O

37
Alternatives
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
 Non-ionics – alkyl polyglucosides (e.g. lauryl glucoside) – mild, naturally derived
.
TR DU E
N
IS O T
CH2 OH
O
O
D PR MA
R O H H
TI
H OH
H OH
OH H
ER RE ED
 Non-ionics – acyl glucamides (e.g. cocoyl methyl glucamide) – mild, naturally derived
TH R T
O O H CH3
HO HO
R F IG
R C N CH2 CH CH CH CH CH
HO
O OT YR
O
HO HO
N OP
C

38
Formulating sulphate-free, the challenges
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
.
TR DU E
N
 Cost
IS O T
O
D PR MA
 Replacement surfactants always more expensive
TI
 Levels of replacement surfactants usually need to be higher to
ER RE ED
give good performance (foam, viscosity etc)
Aqua/Water, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauryl
 Blends of replacement surfactants are often more complex, Sulfoacetate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Lauroyl
TH R T
with more components O O H Sarcosinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycol Distearate,
Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Glycereth-26, Decyl
Additional thickeners are often needed
R F IG

Glucoside, Parfum/Fragrance, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Amodimethicone,
Performance Polyquaternium-10, Methylparaben, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol
O OT YR

Oleate, Propylene Glycol, Carbomer, C11-15 Pareth-7,
 Reduced deposition of active ingredients Benzophenone-3, Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Glycerin,
N OP
Trideceth-12, Laureth-9, C12-13 Pareth-23, Linalool, Tocopherol,

 Unwanted phase behaviour C12-13 Pareth-3, Limonene, Benzyl Alcohol, Juniperus Communis
C
 Lower chemical stability of alternative surfactants Fruit Oil, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Rosmarinus Officinalis
Oil/Rosemary Leaf Oil, Methylisothiazolinone, Sodium Hydroxide,
Citric Acid

39
Conclusions
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
 Sulphates are a very low-cost, high-performing set of surfactants
.
TR DU E
N
IS O T
O
D PR MA
TI
 Concerns about irritation, impurities, naturalness and environmental effects are over-
simplified and exaggerated
ER RE ED
TH R T
Sulphate-free technologies do open-up new opportunities and extra benefits, but also add
 O O H
R F IG
complexity and cost
O OT YR
 Does the industry need to work harder to inform and educate consumers?
N OP
C

40
Thank You!
S.
U TIO L
IB C RIA
N
.
TR DU E
N
IS O T
O
D PR MA
TI
ER RE ED
Questions?
TH R T
O O H
R F IG
O OT YR
N OP
C


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S.

Sulfate-Free – What’s Wrong with Sulfates

and Are the Alternatives Any Better?

Speaker: Paul Cornwell, PhD

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 Concerns about sulphate surfactants

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 Introduction of ether groups, reduces CMC and R (OCH2CH2)n O S O- Na+

improves skin mildness O

 Usually buy SLES 1EO – 3EO, although SLS also

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 Net result – cheap to transport!

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Sulphate surfactants - synthesis

 Sulphation of fatty alcohol and/or alcohol ethoxylate

branching, reaction conditions etc)

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Benefits of sulphate surfactants

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Benefits of sulphates - cleansing

 Sulphates proven to be very effective in all

cleansing after just one wash with a SLES Std. shampoo

Figure from - Mittal S., Cornwell P. A., Gourion-Arsiquaud S. Determination of sebum

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Benefits of sulphates - foaming

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Benefits of sulphates – rheology control

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Benefits of sulphates – polymer deposition

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Benefits of sulphates – polymer deposition

Concentrated Diluted surfactant – Diluted surfactant –

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 Absence of eye irritation – Tested in vitro using the red blood

cell test2 and newer in vivo and in vitro tests

 Absence of skin barrier disruption and skin dryness

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irritant) SLS and soap > (moderately

APGs and betaines

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 So…..alternatives to sulphates may irritate skin

less, but might be more drying. You need to find

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 Sulphates, formulated correctly, can be mild to

mildness (see soap!)

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Safety – and philosophy

 Perceived major consequences  Effective risk prevention measures

(‘too late to go back’)  Regulations and quality control

 Avoid risk completely

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 Volatile liquid at room temperature

 In EU classified as Category 2 CMR (suspected of

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