SHIPPING CONTAINER HOMES

FOR BEGINNERS

A Full Set of Life-Saving Steps to

Perform for Making Your Project a
Masterpiece. The Guide to Build your
Affordable, Eco-friendly & Super Cozy
Container House
Mike Ursan
© Copyright 2022 by Mike Ursan - All rights
reserved.

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CHAPTER 1. WHY LIVE IN CONTAINER HOMES?

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS?

DURABLE
SUSTAINABLE
COST-EFFECTIVE
CUSTOMIZABLE
STRONG
PEST PROOF
EFFICIENT & ECO FRIENDLY
QUICK BUILD TIME

CHAPTER 2. MAXIMIZE TIME THANKS TO THIS SET OF TIDBITS.

TYPE OF LAND
FIND YOURSELF THE PERFECT 20' SHIPPING CONTAINER
BUY ALL YOUR CONTAINERS FROM THE SAME MANUFACTURER
PLAN FOR SIMPLICITY
FINALIZE A DESIGN AND STICK TO IT
PLAN & BUDGET
DESIGN & BUILD
INSULATION LOCATION
UTILITY SPACES

CHAPTER 3. AN ECO-FRIENDLY HOUSE

LOWER YOUR TEMPERATURE
USE YOUR GARDEN
BE SMART WITH YOUR APPLIANCES
USE ECO-FRIENDLY INSULATION
INSTALL PHOTOVOLTAIC SOLAR PANELS
USE LOCAL BUILDING MATERIALS
USE EFFICIENT LIGHT BULBS

CHAPTER 4. ESTABLISH THE DESIGN PLAN.

STRUCTURAL FRAME
UNDERSIDE
WALLS
ROOF
END DOORS
INTERIOR
FLOOR

CHAPTER 5. PLANNING TIMES FOR FINALIZING A PROJECT

1. PLANNING THE PROJECT

2. FINALIZE DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION APPROVAL
3. SITE PREPARATION AND FOUNDATIONS
4. PLACE AND MODIFY CONTAINERS
5. FINISH TO OCCUPANCY

CHAPTER 6. WORKSITE PREPARATION.

WHAT LAND CLEARING AND SITE PREPARATION COST

CLEARING TO PROVIDE A SOLID BASE
SITE SURVEY AND SAFETY
COMPACTION OF LAYERS AND MOISTURE CONTROL
SOIL TYPES AND HOW TO RECOGNIZE THEM
VARIOUS TYPES OF SLAB
RAFT FOUNDATION
TRENCH FOUNDATION
PILE FOUNDATION

CHAPTER 7. TYPES OF FOUNDATION AND CONTAINER

FIXING.CONCRETE SLAB FOUNDATIONS FOR SHIPPING
CONTAINERS

CONCRETE FOOTINGS FOR SHIPPING CONTAINERS

WOODEN BEAM FOOTINGS
SIMPLE TRICKS TO FIX THE CONTAINER TO THE FOUNDATION
ON-SITE CONSTRUCTION

CHAPTER 8. ALL YOU NEED IN CHOOSING A CUSTOM-MADE

SHIPPING CONTAINER.
HOW MUCH DO SHIPPING CONTAINERS COST?
TYPES OF CONTAINERS AND CONTAINER CONDITIONS
NEW CONTAINERS
ONE-TRIP CONTAINERS
REFURBISHED CONTAINERS
USED CONTAINERS
CARGO WORTHY (CW) CONTAINERS
WIND AND WATER TIGHT (WWT) CONTAINERS
AS-IS CONTAINERS
WHERE TO BUY YOUR SHIPPING CONTAINER
FINDING CONTAINERS ONLINE
FINDING CONTAINERS OFFLINE
HOW DO I SHIP

CHAPTER 9. PREPARE, CLEAN, AND ISOLATE THE CONTAINER

ENOUGH SPACE
LEVEL GROUND
KEEPING THE CONTAINER OFF THE GROUND
HOW TO CLEAN THE CONTAINERS
WHY INSULATE A CONTAINER INTERNALLY?
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF INSULATION FOR THE INTERIOR?
ROCKWOOL
KINGSPAN
SPRAY FOAM
OTHER OPTIONS
HOW DO INSULATE THE FLOOR
RENEWABLE ENERGY ROOFING
CHAPTER 10. INSTALLATION OF ALL REQUIRED SERVICES &
UTILITIES

INSTALLATION OF WATER LINES AND DRAINS

BATHROOM CONNECTION
KITCHEN CONNECTION
SERVICE BLOCK
THE TOILET CONNECTION
OTHER EXTERIOR USES
THE SEWER AND SEPTIC
CONNECTING TO DRAINAGE SYSTEMS
CHAPTER 11. OPTIONS FOR CEILING AND ROOF INSTALLATION.

DIFFERENT ROOF STYLES

GABLE
FLAT
VARIOUS TYPES OF STUDS

CHAPTER 12. FLOORWOODS

1. ORIGINAL PLYWOOD OR BAMBOO FLOORING
2. IMITATION WOOD VINYL PLANKS
3. COIN VINYL
4. ALUMINUM OR STEEL FLOORING
5. EPOXY COATING
FLOORING CHECKLIST

CHAPTER 13. OUTDOOR TRICKS AND DESIGN

FASCINATING LAYOUTS
CONTAINER HOME EXTERIOR DESIGN WITH OR WITHOUT INSULATION
VARIOUS TYPES OF EXTERIOR INSULATION AND INSTALLATION METHODS
BLANKET INSULATION
INSTALLATION BASIS FOR EXTERIOR
WALL SHEATHING
DRAINAGE PLANE
WINDOWS
EXTERIOR DOORS
FLASHING ALONG WALLS
FACADE MATERIALS
TRIM
PLACING INSULATION EXTERNALLY
PAINTING EXTERIOR INSULATION
FINISHING AN EXTERIOR WITHOUT INSULATION
TIMBER
CLADDING INSTALLATION
METAL
CHAPTER 14. VARIOUS SOLUTIONS TO PAINT THE CONTAINER.
WE'LL GO OVER SOME TIPS, FAQS, AND HOW-TOS, SUCH AS:
WHAT PRIMER TO USE?
WHAT PAINT TO USE ON SHIPPING CONTAINERS?
STEPS TO PAINT YOUR CONTAINER
SPRAY OR ROLL A “RUST REFORMER” PRIMER AS AN ADHESIVE.
FOLLOW THESE STEPS IF YOU WANT TO PAINT THE INSIDE OF YOUR CONTAINER:
HOW TO MAINTAIN CONTAINER PAINT
WHAT CAN YOU DO TO MAKE THE OUTSIDE MORE APPEALING?
CRISSCROSS STACK
SIDE–BY–SIDE
STACKED
SINGLE CONTAINER

CHAPTER 15. 20 FLOOR PLAN IDEAS

PLAN.1
PLAN.2
PLAN.3
PLAN.4
PLAN.5
PLAN.6
PLAN.7
PLAN.8
PLAN.9
PLAN.10
PLAN.11
PLAN.12
PLAN.13
PLAN.14
PLAN.15
PLAN.16
PLAN.17
PLAN.18
PLAN.19
PLAN.20

CHAPTER 16. HOW TO TURN SHIPPING CONTAINERS INTO

SWIMMING POOLS?
CONCLUSION
 CHAPTER 1. WHY LIVE IN CONTAINER
HOMES?

What Are The Benefits?

As an affordable alternative to traditional rental housing, shipping container
homes are becoming increasingly popular among homeowners and landlords.
While there are many advantages to living in a shipping container, there are also
some disadvantages to this alternative housing design.

Durable
Container homes can be designed and built to be permanent, low-cost homes
because steel is extremely durable. Certain design elements, such as placing
large windows or sliding glass doors to face the proper sun exposure, using
special flooring materials, and properly insulating the walls and ceiling, will help
keep cooling and heating costs in the home down. If designed and built properly,
most steel container homes can last a lifetime.

Sustainable
The cost of returning an empty container after a shipment exceeds the cost of
building a new container for most shipping companies, resulting in millions of
old shipping containers sitting unused. Using upcycled shipping containers to
build container homes is a great way to reduce waste, use recycled materials, and
provide a sustainable home construction option.

Cost-effective
Whether new or used, shipping containers can be purchased for as little as a few
thousand dollars, making them an affordable option, particularly for starter
homes. A 20-foot shipping container costs $1,500 to $3,000 per unit, while a 40-
foot shipping container costs $3,500 to $4,500 per unit. If you want to build a
tiny house out of this structure, the cost of containers can be as low as a few
thousand dollars. However, if you want to build a larger house, there are now
shipping-container homes that are over 2,000 square feet, the containers could
cost closer to $25,000 each. While this may appear to be a significant increase,
compared to the cost of materials for a traditional wood home of the same size,
the difference is negligible.

Customizable
A container home can be built in a variety of ways. Designers are beginning to
specialize in container construction, offering innovative container architecture
designs that allow owners to add their personal touches, such as using recycled
materials, installing a full wall of sliding glass doors, or installing off-grid
components such as solar panels.

Strong
Shipping containers are built to be tough. They're made to be tough and long-
lasting. Shipping containers are built to transport cargo in all types of weather,
on land, and at sea. They may be subjected to 100 mph winds or 50-foot waves
at sea; if the container can survive that, there's a good chance it'll be fine through
any storms your home may face!
As steel is removed from doors and windows, the durability decreases. The
design must strike a balance between adding glass windows and doors while
maintaining the highest structural integrity. Shipping container house plans are
also available to place windows and doors behind the original shipping container
doors. This preserves the structural integrity and durability that drew you to a
container home in the first place. You can still lock the original doors when you
leave the house with this design, which is a nice feature if this will be a
secondary home that will be vacant from time to time.
The shipping containers can withstand high winds and storms even if they aren't
bolted down. They can withstand winds of up to 100 mph when left unattended
and standing alone. When you secure a container home to a foundation, the
safety and security of the home are amplified even more; properly secured, they
can withstand wind speeds of up to 175 mph. So, if you live in an area where
extreme weather frequently occurs, such as hurricanes or tornadoes, you can rest
assured that your container home will withstand the storm.
 Pest proof
Because the steel of a converted shipping container is the main building
material, it is highly resistant to bugs and pests.
Even if your shipping container house has wood floors or is clad on the outside,
termites are less of a concern because the internal frame of the building is made
of steel. Termites may cause damage to the exterior siding and any interior
finishes. Still, they will not be able to compromise the structural integrity of your
home, as they can in a home constructed using traditional methods.

Efficient & eco friendly

People have been looking for more ways to reduce their carbon footprint and
recycle and reuse items whenever possible over the last decade. With your
housing choice, shipping container homes provide an excellent opportunity to
meet both of these goals.
Shipping container homes can be extremely energy efficient and can withstand
hot summers and cold, windy winters with proper insulation. Due to their small
size, container houses can be extremely energy efficient as many other tiny home
designs. High-quality insulation can make it simple to heat or cool a small space,
and many homeowners choose solar energy as a means of lowering monthly
utility costs.
Reduced energy loads and the use of systems and appliances that are the right
size to meet those reduced loads are how energy efficiency is achieved. Because
of the small size of a shipping container home, smaller appliances are much
easier to use. When it comes to energy efficiency, bigger isn't always better!
If you buy used shipping containers to build your container home, you'll be
repurposing 2,500 kg of steel with each 40-foot container. The use of steel
shipping containers also reduces or eliminates the use of many other
environmentally harmful building materials.

Quick build time

Homes made from shipping containers can be built and finished quickly, which
is a significant advantage and reason to choose a container home. You could
have a completed shipping container delivered to your home in as little as 8
weeks! A traditional home can take 4-6 months to construct. Container living
may be the answer you're looking for if you need a housing solution sooner!
The exterior structure of a container home is already built, as are the roof, walls,
and ceiling; all you have to do now is add the interior details, which can save
you a lot of time during the construction process.
Off-site construction of container homes is also possible. Because there is no
travel to and from the construction site, and all supplies and equipment are
readily available and do not need to be shipped to the construction site, the build
time is reduced. This is especially useful if you're planning to construct in a
remote location. Off-site construction for a remote location can not only get your
home ready to go faster, but it can also save you money because materials and
equipment can be expensive to transport.
CHAPTER 2. MAXIMIZE TIME THANKS TO
THIS SET OF TIDBITS.
Choosing a site location is an essential aspect of any project. The site should be
easily accessible, private, have good views, and be close to the city (in
emergencies). Because shipping container buildings can be built or assembled
on-site, it is critical to consider the access road to the site to deliver the modules
or containers in a timely and safe manner. Site boundaries, in addition to the
access road, must be considered for privacy reasons.

Type of Land
Because each site is unique, selecting one that meets our needs and provides us
with benefits is critical. The site's terrain must be flat or leveled, and the bearing
capacity of the soil must be consistent throughout the site, saving money on
excavation and grading. These considerations will aid in determining the type of
foundation for a shipping container building.

Find Yourself the Perfect 20' Shipping Container

You'll need to begin looking for a specific type of 20' container known as a side
loader.' This is a factory-built container with full-span bi-fold doors on one side.
These will be difficult to come by used, as individuals use most to transport their
cars and SUVs around or by shipping companies to transport individual vehicles
around the world; they don't take the beating that most containers do when
transporting commodities from China, so they tend to last a lot longer. However,
I have seen them used on occasion. LOOK BEFORE YOU BUY if you can find
one that has been well used.
A used seaworthy one (not beat up and still usable) will set you back $3-$5,000,
while a non-serviceable one will set you back $2-$4,000. Look for a good, used
seaworthy container if you have the time (and patience). You will not need to
inspect it before purchasing it. If you come across a used, non-rated container, I
would be very hesitant to purchase it. You can easily spend the difference in coin
just to make it livable if the doors are sprung on their hinges or the floor is
trashed beyond use. I'd just go out and buy a new one. After all, this is the most
important aspect of your home investment; why be penny-wise but pound-
foolish? Furthermore, the factory painting and anti-corrosion protection on new
ones are outstanding. One of these will last 30+ years if you don't scratch or dent
the surface.
Depending on the side-door configuration and how you use them, your 8'x20'
container tiny home will expand from less than 160 sq ft to around 200-250 sq ft
of living space when finished. I have about 240 square feet of living space in the
containers I use. The inner bi-fold side doors are significantly larger than the
outer bi-fold side doors, resulting in a significant increase in square footage.
Take a look around to see what the differences are.

Buy All your Containers from the Same Manufacturer

Containers from different manufacturers may have minor quality and dimension
differences, and combining them may reduce the ease with which containers can
be used to construct modular structures. So, once you've found the right
manufacturer for your area and requirements, stick with them.

Plan for Simplicity

It's entirely up to you how complicated you want your container home to be.
Container homes, like any other type of construction technique, offer a wide
range of options. If you don't have much experience or confidence, start small
and work your way up to a more complex container home later. The great thing
about container homes is that they are very easy to upgrade, so once you've
gotten the hang of it, you can always add another room, floor, or even a pool!

Finalize a Design and Stick to it

This is a continuation of the previous suggestion. Each cut has a cost, but cutting
a portion of a shipping container requires a significant amount of money and
time to reassemble, so don't reverse your decision. Visit as many container
homes as you can in person to get design ideas, and then try to stick with the one
you like.
 Plan & Budget
Every project begins with a simple concept. To take a project from concept to
reality takes careful planning, organization, and (of course) money.

Design & Build

This section is the “meat and potatoes” of your knowledge development. In this
section, the issues we'll discuss are what most people think of when they think of
the challenges and opportunities of using shipping containers for construction.
Creating designs and recognizing the trade-offs between them is the first step.
Then there's figuring out how to navigate the choices that arise during the actual
construction.

Insulation Location
Containers are unique in that the corrugated metal "sheathing" also serves as a
structural component. In contrast to a typical wooden wall with studs, this
effectively means that there is no cavity inside the walls to place insulation.
As a result, the insulation must be installed on the corrugated metal sheathing's
inside or outside. Of course, this assumes that you require insulation, which is
true in most cases but not all.
Because most insulating materials are unsightly and not particularly long-lasting,
you'll almost always cover insulation in some way.
Suppose you put insulation on the container's interior side. In that case, you'll
need an interior wall surface to cover it for a better aesthetic appearance and to
make it easier to mount cabinets, light switches, and other items. Of course, this
means there will be even less space available inside the container.
If you put insulation on the container's exterior, you'll need exterior cladding on
top to protect it from the elements and give it a more appealing appearance.
Furthermore, unless you're fine with corrugated metal walls inside your home,
you might want interior walls.
Although neither of these options is inherently ‘bad,' they are important to
consider because they represent tradeoffs you may need to make when
considering your design.
Unless you live in a "perfect" climate, your container home will almost certainly
require insulation. The choice impacts not only personal comfort in terms of
temperature but also internal relative humidity and utility costs.

Utility Spaces
Unless you live or work in an industrial building with surface-mounted conduit
and exposed ducting, you're probably used to having all your mechanical,
electrical, and plumbing systems hidden behind walls, ceilings, and floors.
In most cases, this is also possible with containers. For example, most electrical
lines have a small diameter and can be easily hidden within a wall. The same is
true for plumbing, except for drain, waste, and vent (DWV) lines. DWV lines are
thicker pipes, usually made of PVC, that can be run vertically through the floor
or ceiling, obviating the need for a thicker wall cross-section throughout the
house.
Central air conditioning (and, on rare occasions, heating) has its own set of
issues exacerbated in container structures. In a traditional home, the evaporator
unit is usually found in a ceiling or closet space, with a spiderweb of air ducts
reaches all four corners. These ducts can't be run inside walls because they're
about a foot in diameter.
Air ducts are typically run in ceiling cavities in homes with slab-on-grade
foundations. In homes with crawl spaces or basements, ducts are sometimes run
beneath the house.
Even with high-cube shipping containers, there isn't enough room to run ducting
in the ceiling while still having enough roof space for insulation, light fixtures,
and other necessities. When you use regular-height containers, the problem only
gets worse.
Ducting, it turns out, is a relatively simple problem to solve. Ductless or split-
unit HVAC systems are becoming increasingly popular and standard choices
outside of the United States. These units do not require any ductwork and instead
rely on a wall-mounted evaporator/blower that is connected to a
condenser/compressor unit outside via a small refrigerant line.
Larger buildings may require multiple units, but this can save you money by
allowing you to control the climate of only the rooms you use efficiently.
If you absolutely must have a central HVAC system, you can run the ducting
beneath the container using a foundation system that raises the container off the
ground. Alternatively, you could construct a secondary roof system (perhaps to
provide larger roof overhangs or more roof slopes to reduce snow collection) and
connect it to the container's corrugated metal roof with ducting. These options
are less popular than the ductless units discussed above, but they are certainly
possible if desired.
If heating rather than cooling is a concern in your area, you can use in-room
radiators or radiant flooring, which use small water pipes instead of large air
ducts to provide heat from a central boiler.
There are many options for how you manage utilities inside your container, so
this isn't a deal-breaker for most builds.
 CHAPTER 3. AN ECO-FRIENDLY HOUSE
If you've ever visited a port city, you've probably seen shipping containers.
They're substantial corrugated metal bins that can hold anything from clothing to
electronics to automobiles. It's easy to pass them by without giving them a
second thought because of their utility. However, some people consider shipping
containers to be their home.
We already know that constructing buildings out of shipping containers is
environmentally friendly. While the myth that every container home is
environmentally friendly has been debunked, there are steps you can take to
ensure that yours is one of the few that does. We're excited to present a few
options for you to consider.

Lower Your Temperature

Is it really necessary to walk around in shorts and a t-shirt inside during the
winter? You can save money and reduce carbon emissions by lowering the
thermostat and slightly lowering your hot water temperature. If you can raise
your tolerance to tolerate slightly warmer interior temperatures in the summer,
you can save a lot of money. Keep in mind that a fan is less expensive to run
than an air conditioner, and a blanket is less expensive than a heating bill.

Use Your Garden

Making a compost pile in your kitchen, using a compost pail or bin, or in your
garden is another great way to improve the eco-friendliness of your container.
Many of the items we throw away on a daily basis could be composted instead.
Vegetable peels, fruit, tea bags, cotton clothing, and other materials can all be
recycled.
Around 30% of the trash we throw away each week could be composted instead.
This would be extremely beneficial to the environment. Methane gas is
prevented by using a compost pile instead of a landfill.
You can buy a compost bin and place it on your driveway if you don't have
enough space in your garden for a compost pile. You'll have a rich compost to
sprinkle on your plants and trees once the scraps have rotted down.
Why not try growing your own food in your garden in addition to having a
compost pile? Growing your own vegetables can help you save a lot of money
and reduce your carbon footprint. You get the satisfaction of knowing that your
food is fresh and that you grew it yourself.

Be Smart With Your Appliances

Electronic devices such as computers, televisions, and other devices left on
standby waste a surprising amount of electricity. The standby mode allows these
devices to turn on more quickly, power clocks, monitor remote control button
presses and perform other tasks.
If you're willing to sacrifice a little convenience in your life, you could consider
completely depowering these devices when they're not in use. This is usually
accomplished by unplugging them from the outlet, installing switch-controlled
outlets, or plugging devices into power strips that can be manually switched (and
are also handy and protected your devices from power surges).
Do you want to know how much electricity your devices use in standby mode?
According to the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, nearly 10% of
residential electricity consumption is used to power standby mode devices! If
you want to put the devices to the test in your own home, an inexpensive device
like the one below can quickly show you how much energy you're wasting (Both
during operation and in standby mode)
Consider replacing some of your old appliances if you're serious about lowering
your carbon footprint. Many devices' "on" and "standby" power consumption has
been greatly reduced thanks to new standards like Energy Star.

Use Eco-Friendly Insulation

The type of insulation you use and where you insulate your container can
significantly impact the environment.
Let's begin with the type of insulation to use. There are several options available,
each of which differs significantly in terms of environmental friendliness. There
are a variety of natural options, such as straw, cotton, hemp, and others. In our
interview, we learned that Montessori La Milpa, a Mexican school, used straw
for a large portion of their wall insulation. Condensation, depending on your
climate and whether you plan to insulate the inside or outside of your containers,
can have a significant impact on your decision.
The next problem is deciding where to put the insulation that will work best for
your design and climate. While it's tempting to insulate your walls because it's
the most straightforward option simply, this is a poor choice for limiting heat
transfer. And if you're paying to heat and cool your container, a poor heat
transfer choice is a poor energy use choice. And, as we all know, energy
consumption has a direct impact on environmental friendliness.
Instead, we recommend that you insulate the walls, roof, and underneath the
container if you're going to insulate at all. Keep in mind that if the primary mode
of heat transfer in your climate isn't convection from the air but rather radiation
from the sun, you might be able to get away without insulating the floor.
Insulation is not cheap, but it can save you money in the long run by lowering
your heating and cooling bills.

Install Photovoltaic Solar Panels

A typical solar panel system can save you a significant amount of money on your
annual electricity bill, depending on where you live.
You'll need a location that faces the sun and isn't too shady if you want to get the
most out of solar panels. A reputable installation company can give you
information on the amount of energy in the sun in your area, as well as how
much electricity you could generate with various system sizes.
Also, keep in mind that if you want to live completely off the grid, you'll need a
costly battery system to provide power when the sun isn't shining. Otherwise,
you'll use your solar system during the day and your 'grid' system at night. Some
utilities will even buy back any excess electricity you generate during the day!

Use Local Building Materials

Using locally sourced building materials is a great way to reduce your carbon
footprint. Depending on where you live and what resources are available, this
will be easier for some people than for others.
If you live in Canada and your container's external skin is made of oak, that's
fantastic! However, if you live in Dubai and want to do the same, you'll have to
source your materials from afar, which will significantly increase your carbon
footprint. So, using your best judgment, look for similar materials in your area
that you could use instead.

Use Efficient Light Bulbs

Unless you've been living under a rock, you've probably heard about the energy
savings (along with other advantages) that more energy-efficient lightbulbs can
provide. Years ago, when fluorescent or CFL (compact fluorescent lamp) bulbs
became popular, the first wave of change occurred. LED bulbs now provide even
greater energy savings (and thus reduced carbon emissions) than CFL bulbs,
with fewer drawbacks.
A few years ago, LED bulbs were quite expensive, but their popularity and mass
production drastically reduced their cost. They'll pay for themselves in no time,
thanks to energy savings of up to 85 percent when compared to traditional
incandescent bulbs. The bulbs are highly rated and reasonably priced, especially
if you buy a large package and replace all of the bulbs in your home.
Different rooms have different uses, occupancy levels, energy requirements, and
so on. As a result of this structure, you can tailor specific ideas to the areas
where they are most helpful.
Here are a few more suggestions, and we're sure you can figure out which rooms
they apply to!
• Use water-saving showerheads and toilets.
• Keep your refrigerator in the shade.
• Check that your bedding sheets are made of wool rather than polyester.
• To save water, take a quick shower instead of a bath.
• Use an eco-friendly kettle or limit the amount of water that is boiled.
• Use cold water instead of warm water to wash your clothes.

Another method is to divide your home into sections based on construction

elements rather than rooms. You could, for example, divide your space into
walls, roofs, and floors. Here are a few suggestions:
• Check for any drafty areas in your container and seal them.
• Any single-glazed windows should be replaced with double-glazed
windows.
• Using carpets on wooden floors can cut heating costs by 4-6 percent.
Finally, it's important to remember that how you live inside your home is just as
important as how you live outside it. Little decisions you make daily can go a
long way toward reducing negative consequences.
Here are some examples:
• Instead of replacing broken items in your home, try to repair them.
• Instead of buying new, consider buying used, well-made products.
• Instead of purchasing infrequently used items, consider borrowing or
renting them.
 CHAPTER 4. ESTABLISH THE DESIGN
PLAN.
Everyone's container home is unique, and some people can work with lower-
quality containers due to their designs.
While container carriers must pass more stringent inspections in order to
transport goods by sea, you may be able to get away with some things that they
can't. This is especially true if you intend to cut and modify the container in any
case. With a bit of planning, you can arrange your design so that any damaged
areas are cut out anyway to make room for windows, doors, and wider rooms.
The inspection method we recommend is straightforward and does not
necessitate the use of specialized equipment or knowledge. Rather, it's primarily
a thorough visual and functional examination of all of the container's
components. You can follow a procedure and ensure nothing is missed by
breaking the container down into its constituent parts.
The basic rule for visual inspection is to scan with your heads and eyes in a
perpendicular direction to the direction you're walking. If you're inspecting the
floor, for example, walk from the front to back and scan left and right. When
inspecting a wall, walk from the front to back and scan up and down. This
straightforward method will ensure that your eyes see every inch of the
container.
A few tools will come in handy during your inspection, and you probably
already have the majority of them.
The first is an extra-long selfie stick with a remote shutter button, allowing you
to take photos and video in difficult or dangerous places to reach your hands.
The following item is a flashlight, which is required for the interior inspection.
To visually inspect the top beams and roof, use a ladder or stepstool. Finally, a
hammer or other heavy metal object can be used to assess the extent of the rust.

Structural frame
The 12 steel beams that form the edges of each of the six faces of a shipping
container provide the bulk of the container's strength. These beams have
different sizes and cross-sections depending on whether they are corner beams,
bottom rails, or top rails.
You really want these beams to be in good shape. The majority of the container's
other parts can be patched or repaired fairly quickly, but the damage here is more
challenging to repair. Because most of these beams have a hollow cross-section,
you'll need to inspect them from both inside and outside to get a complete
picture of their condition.
Surface rust is unimportant, but deeper rust and corrosion will significantly
impact the beam's strength.

Underside
Although most people never see the underside of a container, it is still vital. It's
made up of two bottom rails and a number of small transverse beams that span
the container's width. The plywood container floor is screwed into these cross
members.
A gooseneck tunnel is an area at one end of a 40-foot container that is designed
to fit over certain types of trailers to reduce the overall height of the container
during highway transport. This is normal, and the beams in this area can be
visually examined just like any other.
Because these cross-members are some of the container's closest parts to the
ground (and because they're usually out of the sun, which would normally dry
them), they'll be the most rusted. However, because it is beneath the container, it
is also the most difficult to inspect!
Midway through being moved from truck to ground, depending on the
offloading method used by the deliverer, it might be a good time to take a look at
or take a few pictures of the container's bottom. Unless you have heavy
equipment to pick up the container, this area will be difficult to see once on the
ground. Obviously, proceed with extreme caution and NEVER place any part of
your body beneath a suspended container. The selfie stick mentioned earlier
could be useful in this situation.
This isn't ideal, but it's not the end of the world, and it's relatively simple to fix if
necessary. Because no one will ever see your repair, it only needs to work.

Walls
When you picture a shipping container, most of what you see and think of is the
container's walls. Corrugated steel walls (both end walls and side walls) help
form the overall building envelope while also providing additional structural
strength. Surface rust and dents in the walls are common in used containers, but
these are acceptable if not too severe.
It's usually pretty easy to tell the difference between surface rust and more
common structural rust. When in doubt, tap the area in question with a hammer
to see if any large flakes fall off, then listen for any difference in sound
compared to a non-damaged section.
Obviously, you have a serious problem if you can see through any part of the
walls. While it can be patched, more holes will likely appear in the future. A
container that looks like the one below is most likely too damaged to be
repaired.
Your container's planned door, window, and room cutouts may line up with
damaged areas. Because the problem areas won't be included in the house
anyway, you can get the savings of a lower-quality container without making the
sacrifices that usually come with them. It's possible that you'll need a lot of luck
to get everything to line up perfectly for this to happen.
Last but not least, consider the impact of dents on your design. Dents (either
protruding into the container interior or protruding outward from the container)
may have an impact on other building components. Outward protruding dents,
for example, can prevent an adjacent container from being properly placed.
Interior dents can also have an impact on the placement of interior walls. While
dents can be removed, the container wall material is surprisingly thick and
strong, so this may appear to be a simpler task than it is. As a result, keep an eye
out for deep enough dents to cause these types of impacts.

Roof
The roof is made of corrugated metal with a different shape than the walls.
Climbing on top of the container is the best way to inspect it. If that isn't an
option, the selfie stick can be used to take photos or videos instead.
You're looking for general wear and tear, such as previous patches, signs of
standing water (which usually coincide with roof dents), and so on. The hammer
test can be used to distinguish between surface rust and deeper structural rust,
but make sure your body weight is as far away from the affected area as
possible.
You'll have to wait until the interior inspection to see if the roof is actually
waterproof, so for now, just focus on making sure it's in good structural shape.
The roof's condition is less important if you plan to build a secondary roof over
the container. As always, keep in mind how you'll be using the container, and
don't waste time on features that aren't necessary for your project.

End Doors
The only mechanical components of the shipping container are the end doors and
their associated hardware. Dirt, rust, and other corrosion have a high chance of
affecting anything that moves.
Examine how easily the four lock bars spin, how well the cams and keepers lock
together, and how easily both doors open on their hinges by moving all four lock
bars. Examine the rubber gasket around the perimeter of the doors as well. Any
missing chunks or areas that are particularly dry or cracked are likely in need of
replacement.

Interior
For the most part, your interior inspection is a continuation of your exterior
inspection, confirming the condition of the "other side" of all the materials you
inspected from the outside. So, from this vantage point, examine the walls, roof,
doors, and structural frame members. To get a clear view, you'll need to use your
flashlight.
You'll need to close the container doors as much as possible while inside to test
the envelope's integrity (also known as water-tightness testing) and look for any
signs of visible light entering the container. This work will have to be done
during daylight hours, and it will be easier on a day that is not overcast.
You could do a water test by spraying water on the roof and looking for interior
leaks if you have access to water, but this isn't necessary. If there isn't any light
coming in from the inside, there aren't likely to be any leaks. And if there are any
small leaks that you didn't notice with the light method, you can quickly repair
them with roofing cement or something similar.

Floor
Your container's flooring deserves special attention. Plywood is the most
common type, but there are other options. In the vast majority of cases, this will
be the container's only permeable material. This means it's the only place where
spilled chemicals could have saturated a porous surface.
If at all possible, schedule your interior inspection after the doors have been
closed for some time. This enables you to conduct a proper smell test. Give it a
few sniffs as soon as you open the doors and walk into the container. It is
beneficial to have another person with you during this process as a second
"tester." Start with shallow sniffs to avoid inhaling too much, but if you're having
trouble finding anything, try deeper sniffers.
You're on the lookout for mold and chemicals. If the container smells like mold,
there's probably a leak somewhere, though you might not have noticed it yet. It's
also possible that the leak has been repaired but the moldy odor has persisted. If
this is the case, try to locate the source of the odor on the floor.
It's important to remember that just because you can smell a chemical doesn't
mean it's toxic or harmful. Because nearly any substance can be harmful if there
is enough of it, concentration is the most important factor. Because it isn't a
quantitative measure of concentration, the smell test merely prompts you to ask
more questions and isn't necessarily conclusive proof of anything troubling.
However, if you have a choice of containers, the ones with the least amount of
odor are probably the better option.
If you're planning to reuse the existing floor as a finished floor or a subfloor,
make sure there aren't any large holes or chunks missing, as well as any
significant gouges.
 CHAPTER 5. PLANNING TIMES FOR
FINALIZING A PROJECT
Aconstruction timeline or schedule is used to visualize all of the tasks that must
be completed during the construction process.
While numerous generic construction timelines are available on the internet,
none have been explicitly created for shipping container homes to our
knowledge.
We're excited to share a shipping container home construction timeline because
many of our readers have requested it.
While not every shipping container home will be identical, they will all have
similar features. Use our example as a guideline, but make it your own.

1. Planning the Project

(6 Weeks)
Budgeting and financing (4 days).
Create a preliminary home plan/design (20 days).
Gather information and ordinances specific to the site (3 days).
Materials to be used (2 days).
As you can see in the construction timeline, the planning stage will take
approximately six weeks.
As you may know, planning is the most important stage of the project, and
getting it wrong here can cost you a lot of money later on.
If you look closely at the planning phase, you'll notice that we've left out a stage
for finding and purchasing land. This is because we assume you already own
property. You must include this in your timeline if you do not already have it.
It's difficult for us to give you advice on this because it could take days or
months, depending on your personal preferences and the laws governing
property transfers in your area.
Developing your home design is the most important part of the planning stage.
Designing your home comes after you've established your finances, as you can
see from the schedule. Before you proceed, you must have a firm grasp of your
financial situation. You can begin designing your home once you've determined
how much money you have to spend.
You have the option of designing your own home or working with an architect
and structural engineer. Whether or not you require a building permit will almost
certainly influence your decision.
One quick point to keep in mind when designing your home: don't cut or modify
your shipping containers too much. You can significantly increase the cost and
complexity of the project by doing so.

2. Finalize Design and Construction Approval

(9 – 12 Weeks)
Complete your home's design and plans (10 days)
Create construction blueprints (5 days)
Decide on a final budget (2 days)
Approval of local structural engineers (10-15 days)
Permits for construction (15-25 days)
Find a general contractor (3 days)
We've set aside 9-12 weeks for the second stage of the shipping container home
construction schedule.
This is the longest build stage because it focuses on finalizing your design and
getting your building permit approved.
As you can see, obtaining local structural engineering approval and obtaining
building permits are the two most time-consuming activities.
You're in luck if you're building outside of the city's zoning code or in an
unregulated zone. You won't need a building permit, and the only thing you'll be
doing at this point is finalizing your design.
Many people, however, will require a building permit.
It's best, in our opinion, to work with people and local governments who have
experience with shipping container homes.
If not shipping container homes, make sure they have experience with unusual
construction – it will make the process go more smoothly.
The final task in this stage is to locate a local contractor to construct your home.
Where I can find a local contractor is by far one of the most frequently asked
questions.
Using your local networks is the best place to start. Do any of your
acquaintances or acquaintances' acquaintances know anyone? A personal
recommendation is always more credible.
If you're running out of ideas, talk to people in your neighborhood who live in
shipping container homes or other unusual structures. They will be able to direct
you to the appropriate resources.

3. Site Preparation and Foundations

(4 – 7 Weeks)
Identifying and purchasing shipping containers (5 days)
Access, drainage, and land clearing (5 days)
Layout and excavation of the foundation (5 days)
Run utilities to the site (2 days)
Lay foundations (5-15 days)
The third stage of the shipping container home construction timeline is when you
first set foot on the job site and begin working on your home.
You will primarily be preparing your site for the arrival of your shipping
containers during this stage.
To begin, clear the land and ensure that you have access to the location. Keep in
mind that any contractors who arrive on-site will be bringing larger vehicles,
particularly the trucks (and possibly cranes) that will be used to offload the
actual container.
This stage also includes foundation preparation and laying.
Running utilities to your site is one potentially problematic activity at this stage.
Water, electricity, sewer, gas, cable, and telephone/communication are all
included.
You should contact your utility providers ahead of time to ensure that they will
be able to meet your construction schedule. The last thing you want is to be
stuck in the middle of your project waiting for utilities to be connected.

4. Place and Modify Containers

(3 – 9 Weeks)
 Spray foam insulation and external air seal (1 day)
Attaching containers to the foundation and putting them in place (2
days)
Modifications, cuts, and reinforcements to shipping containers (1-15
days)
Framing and roofing of structural elements (1-5 days)
Put up new windows, doors, and siding (1-10 days)
Rough-in for utilities (3 days)
Framing inside the house (5 days)
Placing and modifying your shipping containers is the fourth stage of the
construction process.
You have a few options for physically transporting the containers to your
location, but they all require professional assistance.
Once on-site, insulate the exteriors of containers before placing them in their
final positions, which may be challenging to do. For the most part, we're just
talking about the container's bottom. On the other hand, some people opt to
insulate the outside of the walls and use corrugated metal for the interior walls.
Underneath the containers, spray foam insulation reduces heat transmission and
prevents moisture intrusion.
We also talk about securing the containers to the foundation and to one another.
Shipping containers can move in high winds and floodwaters, as some people
can attest.
Some of the activities have a lot of variation in length during this stage. The
number of container modifications for doors and windows, for example, can
have a significant impact on the amount of work required.
The work is cheaper and faster if there are fewer modifications. It will take much
longer if you are planning on making large-scale changes.

5. Finish to Occupancy
(2 – 13 Weeks)
Insulation (1-10 days)
Drywall (2 days) (Optional)
Fit flooring (2 days) (Optional)
Complete the plumbing, electrical, and HVAC work (2-10 days)
Put the finishing touches on the fixtures, fittings, appliances, and trim
 (2-15 days)
Decorating and painting (1-5 days)
External cladding (between 1 and 10 days) (Optional)
Landscaping on the outside (1-5 days)
Clean-up and final walk-through (1 day)
Obtain final approval (1-5 days)
Your shipping container home should be dried in and finished at this point in the
construction process.
Depending on your budget and required finishing specifications, the finish-to-
occupancy stage can take anywhere from a few days to several months.
This stage may only take a few days if you're building a simple cabin-style
container home. If you want to build a grand shipping container home with
thousands of square feet of living space, meticulous landscaping, and a
swimming pool, you'll have to wait months.
It's challenging to change any fundamental design elements at this point without
incurring a significant financial and time investment. This is why we keep
emphasizing the importance of taking your time at the start of the project to get
the design right.
Your home will be ready to move into once this stage is completed!
 CHAPTER 6. WORKSITE PREPARATION.
There are many sayings about "solid foundation," and some of them resonate
with each of us. When it comes to construction, the importance of a strong
foundation is amplified.
The importance of land clearing and site preparation in construction cannot be
overstated because of the solid foundation. Every construction project would be
incomplete without them.

What land clearing and site preparation cost

Clearing a site and preparing it for construction costs an average of $2,687, but it
can cost as much as $9,000. Because the processes used to prepare a site differ
depending on the location, the costs can also differ.
Commercial construction projects necessitate extensive site preparation. It's
possible that hiring a dependable and experienced contractor who can handle it
will be the turning point in your project.

Clearing To Provide A Solid Base

The procedure begins with the removal of any impediments and the cleaning of
the construction site. This includes cutting down trees, demolishing any
structures on the property, and removing any old underground infrastructure.
If concrete is not poured over a solid and stable foundation, it will crack and
crumble. This can be avoided by bringing in 4 to 6 inches of excellent
compactable base as a general rule of thumb. The exact amount varies depending
on the pre-existing soil condition, the climate, and the type of structure being
built.

Site Survey and Safety

The block to be built on is marked with survey pegs. A surveyor will examine
the site and determine the exact location of the structure. It creates a physical
representation of the construction plan that the contractor has provided.
The most important aspect of this stage is job site safety, especially because
many people work on construction sites with heavy equipment, power tools, and
sharp objects.
Jobsite safety can be as simple as making sure all of the necessary safety
equipment and tools are in working order for smaller projects. This also entails
hiring skilled workers who are familiar with construction sites.
This step entails putting up construction signs and barriers to block off major
traffic areas for larger projects.

Compaction of Layers and Moisture Control

Rammers, also known as jumping jacks, work by delivering high-impact force at
lower frequencies to confined areas in order to compact fine-grain soil, such as
clay and silt. When you add 2 inches to the base, or even after each new layer,
you should compact three or four times with a compactor.
Water is also required to achieve the desired concrete density. Because dry bases
don't compact well, a spray down is required to dampen the layers and ensure
maximum compaction. A garden hose can quickly provide this additional water.
Grab a handful of the base material and squeeze it into a ball to see if it has
enough moisture. You can move on to the next phase if it manages to keep its
shape. It's important to avoid oversaturating the base, as it will lose its shape.
The actual construction work, such as securing the concrete forms for sale,
screwing on the stakes, and setting the rebar, can begin once your base is ready.
Remember that a well-prepared, even surface with uniformly compacted density
can provide a strong, solid foundation for your structure while also preventing
cracking and crumbling.

Soil types and how to recognize them

Because each site is unique, it is critical to select one that meets our needs and
provides us with benefits. The site's terrain must be flat or leveled, and the
bearing capacity of the soil must be consistent throughout the site, saving money
on excavation and grading.
These considerations will aid in determining the type of foundation for a
shipping container building.
Depending on the type of greenery, it may be advantageous for construction if it
is surrounded by nature. Passive design effects will be created by existing
landscaping. Dense trees against the prevailing wind will reduce heat loss;
deciduous shade trees on the south and west, on the other hand, will reduce
summer solar gain.

Various types of slab

This is the most costly and time-consuming method of laying a foundation for
your container building project, and it is usually reserved for larger projects. The
cost of the concrete and any labor you may need to hire is included in the total
cost.
Creating a concrete slab foundation entails pouring a thick concrete slab on top
of which you will eventually place your container, as the name suggests. The
nature of the soil beneath your concrete slab foundation will determine its
thickness. If the soil is firm, for example, you can simply remove the grass, build
a wooden structure the size of your shipping container, and then pour concrete
into it.
Pouring concrete into a wooden frame is more difficult than it appears, and you
may need assistance. Before the liquid concrete congeals and solidifies, it must
be poured quickly into the wooden structure.
Even if the soil is firm, environmental factors like frost and evaporation cause
the ground beneath your slab to change shape on a regular basis. As a result, you
may need to dig and add concrete padding to strategic locations.
If you're using two 40-foot shipping containers to construct your home, your slab
foundation should be 18 feet wide by 42 feet long. Around the perimeter of your
shipping containers, this would provide an overhanging foot of foundation.
The fact that slab foundations provide a solid base means that there is no hollow
space in the foundation. This helps to avoid future issues like termite
infestations.
Unfortunately, slab foundations are significantly more expensive than pier
foundations due to the additional concrete used and the large amount of space
that must be excavated.
In warmer climates where freezing isn't an issue, slab foundations are frequently
used. When ground temperatures fall below the interior temperature, they
increase the potential for heat loss because the container can conduct heat into
the ground, which transfers more heat than convection into the air.
When it comes to slab foundations, keep in mind that you won't be able to access
utility lines once the concrete has been set. If you have a leak in your water pipe,
you'll need to cut the concrete to get to it. You'll always have access to your
utility lines with a pier foundation.
Concrete piling is similar to piers in that it requires a cylinder steel foam to be
driven into the ground. If your soil has a clay base, a piling foundation may be
the best option.
Without any additional measures, piling can dig past unsuitable soil and into
load-bearing soil. It is, however, on the pricey side, as you will need to hire a
pile driver, an operator, and pier cylinders.
It's also a messy process that uses a lot of water. Concrete pilling has many
drawbacks, including high costs, time commitment, and cleanup time. However,
for some people with poor soil composition, this is their only option.

Raft Foundation
One of the most common foundations for a shipping container home is a raft. It
does not leave any open space for pests to live, unlike concrete piers.
It doesn't necessitate a lot of digging and is a great choice for sandy or loose soil.
Furthermore, the container's weight is evenly distributed across the entire
concrete pad. Steel rebar must, however, run the length and width of the pad.
Before you begin planning for this foundation, consult with your Geotech to
determine the amount of digging required. Also, consult your construction
engineer to determine the recommended pad depth and rebar tie-in spacing.
Because you must connect your utility wire before pouring the concrete, a raft
foundation takes a long time. The container must be placed directly on the pad
with this option.

Trench Foundation
Finally, compared to the other foundations I mentioned above, trench foundation
provides a stable structure for your container home, is less expensive, and easier
to complete.
The entire outer edge of the container is supported by a trench foundation, also
known as a strip or spread footing. Because all you have to do is line the bottom
with gravel and loose stone, it's a godsend for soil with poor drainage.
Finding the best foundation for your shipping container home isn't difficult
because there aren't many options to choose from. As a result, the only issue is
the cost and manpower required to complete your foundation.

Pile Foundation
When the soil type is too weak to support a concrete foundation, pile foundations
are used. This is the most expensive type of foundation we've looked at so far.
The piles (solid cylindrical steel tubes) are hammered into the soft soil until they
reach the more suitable load-bearing ground.
The piles are traditionally capped with a block of concrete after they have been
secured in place. So, once you've secured all of your piles, you'll have a grid
system of concrete caps that look like concrete piers above ground.
A DIY builder should avoid piling foundations. Due to the specialized
equipment required, such as a pile driver, a contractor would be required to
install pile foundations.
 CHAPTER 7. TYPES OF FOUNDATION
AND CONTAINER FIXING.Concrete Slab
Foundations for Shipping Containers
Building a concrete slab may be an option if you don't have a lot of space, time,
or money. This is one of the most expensive methods of laying a solid
foundation due to the materials and labor required. The amount of concrete
needed is significant, and it must be poured quickly to set properly. It would be
ideal to hire a crew to assist you. If you plan on doing any of the work yourself,
keep in mind that a slab foundation for a shipping container should be designed
differently than a standard slab foundation due to the weight of the container
being carried on the foundation's edges and corners.

Concrete Footings for Shipping Containers

Concrete footings are a good option if you want to keep your container in one
place for a long time but don't want to spend money on a slab. But don't be
fooled: while concrete footings are a less expensive option, they require
meticulous planning and attention to detail, so make sure you have enough time
to get it right.
When constructing concrete footings, there are a few things to keep in mind:
What is the minimum depth of footings? Consider how susceptible the
ground is to frost.
What is the minimum size for footings?
Will you need a lot of space? Measure the area and mark it off with
stakes and ties to clearly visualize the container's size. Dimensions of
cargo containers
When will the container be delivered? The footings should be finished
several weeks ahead of time. Still, it's best to consult a professional
about this because the time it takes for the concrete to cure varies
depending on the temperature and humidity in the area.

Wooden Beam Footings

Wooden beams are the simplest and most cost-effective option for a shipping
container foundation. Because only the four corners of the container require
support, less material is required; however, supporting the middle points on the
long side of the container can provide additional stability. Wooden beams can be
installed much closer to your container's arrival date than concrete slabs and
footings and require far less site preparation.
A gravel bed under the wooden beams is recommended to help with drainage,
keep the beams dry, and prevent premature rotting. Keep the container at least
15cm (6 inches) off the ground to allow for air circulation.

Simple tricks to fix the container to the foundation

The stem wall foundation, on which the shipping container building rests, is built
according to the size of the building. While laying the foundations, some
precautions must be taken. First and foremost, the concrete foundation must be
reinforced with steel rebar and half-inch thick steel plates at the corners. When
the containers arrive on site, a crane is used to place them one by one on the
foundation. Containers' exposed rebar must be securely fastened to the
foundation using the J-hook and steel plates. If necessary, additional concrete
blocks should be placed inside the foundation to support the sides of adjacent
containers.
Finally, it is critical that these containers are immovable, which can be
accomplished by welding them to embedded steel reinforcements.

On-site construction
The welding process begins once all of the containers are securely fastened to
the foundation. From top to bottom, all of the adjacent containers are welded
together. All of the containers must be connected in the correct order. All of the
joints must be properly welded. The exterior walls of containers (SUPER
THERM) must be coated with a ceramic coating. This coating is designed to
reduce cooling and heating loads. Cladding, which is custom-made and helps
with aesthetic views, is another option for exterior walls. Internal flooring must
be carefully chosen on existing plywood. All of the doors and windows must be
carefully and neatly installed into the pre-cut openings. The process of installing
a traditional hip roof is also crucial. Finally, all electrical and plumbing
connections must be made correctly to avoid interruptions inflow.
 CHAPTER 8. ALL YOU NEED IN
CHOOSING A CUSTOM-MADE SHIPPING
CONTAINER.
Choosing the right shipping containers is one of the most essential steps in
building your own shipping container home. They serve as the walls, floor, roof,
and overall structural support for your construction.
While you may believe that "containers are so strong and interchangeable that
any of them will work," the quality and condition of the containers you buy are
crucial for avoiding future issues. And, since everyone is on a budget, there's no
sense in overpaying for something you don't require.
You can have vast differences in aesthetics, performance, and cost for a given
size and type of container (the options of which are essential to understand first).
We'll look at the benefits, drawbacks, and costs of some of the options available
for purchase. We'll also go over how containers are inspected while in use and
then show you how to inspect your own containers before buying them.

How Much Do Shipping Containers Cost?

As we've seen, the cost of a shipping container varies greatly depending on its
location, age, type, and condition. However, we've included some cost estimates
below to give you a ballpark figure. As we've already discussed, the terms
"used" and "newish" cover a wide range of conditions, so prices may be higher
or lower than what we've listed.
US$2,100 for a used 20-foot container
US$3,000 for a newish standard 20-foot container; US$2,850 for a used
standard 40-foot container
US$5,600 for a newish standard 40-foot container
US$2,200 for a used 20-foot high-cube container
US$3,200 for a newish High Cube 20-foot container; US$2,950 for a
used High Cube 40-foot container
 Types Of Containers And Container Conditions
New (and New-ish) Containers
This category includes new, one-trip, and refurbished containers, all of which are
generally considered "as good as new." Refurbished containers, in particular, are
a little tricky because there aren't any standards for what "refurbished" means
when it comes to containers that are no longer in use and aren't CSC compliant.
In some cases, refurbishing is more appropriately classified as used. You can
determine both through your own inspection and by asking the seller about the
steps they took in their refurbishment.

New Containers
Despite the fact that a new container has never been used to transport cargo, it
still requires a CSC Combined Data Plate because it must be shipped to you. It's
impossible to mix up new; it's either there or it's not. One-way and refurbished
containers may appear to be ‘like-new,' but only ‘new' is truly new. Understand
that new containers are still handled at the ports, both incoming and outgoing
and may show minor signs of outside use (although the interior should remain
pristine).

One-Trip Containers
New and one-trip containers are frequently interchanged, and yes, they are
nearly identical. On the other hand, one-trip containers are used to transport a
single cargo load from their country of origin to your country, and they are then
available for sale once they arrive.
It doesn't make sense to buy a truly "new" container when a one-trip container is
usually as good as new, in our opinion. It also seems odd to be shipping empty
boxes around the world when we have plenty of items to ship that can fit inside
for the journey. One-trip containers are offered at a significant discount over new
containers in exchange for your generosity.

Refurbished Containers
A refurbished container has gone through a restoration process, but it is usually
purely cosmetic in nature. Due to financial considerations, the use of container
refurbishment by larger container owners has largely disappeared over the last
decade or two as container prices have fallen. Replacing rather than refurbishing
is usually the most cost-effective option. Almost all refurbishments are now
completed on the local level by the dealer or reseller. The economics can shift a
little and make cosmetic refurbishment profitable (most people buying
containers from dealers don't care about CSC certification, whereas container
owners do).
Look at repaired containers to see what refurbished containers aren't. They may
still be in service if the repairs allow it to keep its CSC certification. Containers
that have been repaired meet performance specifications, but patches and
replacement parts may have been added over time, making them unsightly while
still doing the job. The distinctions are significant in terms of condition
classification. Refurbished containers strive to look as close to new as possible,
but you'll have to decide whether or not a specific refurbished container achieves
that goal. And their performance may be questioned.
Refurbishment can range from a simple re-paint to complete component
replacement. Attempting to remove significant dents and scratches, cleaning off
dirt, spills, and stickers, removing any surface rust, priming, and painting are all
common refurbishment procedures. The end doors and locking mechanism may
also require some attention to ensure that they close and lock properly.
The point is that, even for your local dealer, the current low price of containers
makes extensive repair work as part of a refurbishment uneconomical, so any
refurbished container for sale was probably in good shape to begin with.
Otherwise, the container would have been scrapped or sold as-is.

Used Containers
Used is a broad term that encompasses everything from barely used to
completely depleted, as well as everything in between. Containers have a natural
life cycle, and even if they never sustain significant damage, they can still
experience general wear and tear, making their continued use risky for operators
and financially inefficient if they have already been fully depreciated for tax
purposes. Further investment at this point (usually around 10-15 years old) is a
waste of money, so replacement is the obvious choice, even if they still have
some life left in them.
Some of the containers that fall into the used category were previously marked
as being repaired. The repair may have kept the container in service for a while
(and thus classified as Cargo Worthy), but it will need to be retired at some point
(and so classified as Wind and Water Tight or As-Is depending on condition).

Cargo Worthy (CW) Containers

Cargo Worthy containers are CSC-certified by definition, which is a
performance standard related to the container's capabilities as laid out in its
original specification. They may have cosmetic flaws, but they will perform to
the same standards as new containers in terms of cargo transport. If you think
you'll need to ship your container again in the future, you might want to consider
investing in a cargo-worthy container. Any exterior changes, such as door and
window cuts, will most likely invalidate the certification, so keep that in mind.
Even if you have no plans to ship anything else, cargo-worthy containers are in
better shape than some of the other options listed below.

Wind and Water Tight (WWT) Containers

Another source of muddled lines is WWT containers. To the average person, the
differences between a CW and WWT container may be almost imperceptible
(although in practice, most of the WWT containers may look a bit worse).
Perhaps a dent is just a hair deeper than the inspection criteria allow, or a
structural member has bent just a hair too far. Perhaps the container is simply too
old, despite its good performance, and investing in repairs and a certification
inspection isn't feasible.
As previously stated, unless a container is refurbished, WWT is the highest
condition it can be classified in after it is retired. In addition, if a container on the
verge of retirement sustains significant damage, it will most likely bypass WWT
and be classified as As-Is.
In any case, the selection of WWT containers offers some good deals. They are
the most cost-effective option that is widely available and still works without the
need for additional repairs. However, keep in mind that functionally does not
always imply aesthetically pleasing, as these containers are likely to have surface
rust, peeling paint, and dents.
To extend WWT containers' lives, it's usually a good idea to do some
preventative maintenance, such as removing surface rust and repainting problem
areas. It's worth noting that, like the majority of the conditions we've discussed,
WWT is a broad category that can include containers with a variety of aesthetic
appearances. Also, keep in mind that WWT only refers to how well a container
can withstand the elements, not to the container's structural integrity. If you plan
to use your container as a home, pay close attention to the structural elements
around and underneath it.
Many sellers will offer a guarantee that the WWT-rated container will remain
weather-tight for a certain period of time, providing you with additional peace of
mind.
Containers can be kept in WWT condition for a long time if they are not
subjected to much wear and tear. However, if they sustain significant damage,
any repair work is unlikely to be worthwhile, and they will be relegated to As-Is
status.

As-Is Containers
Containers marked "As Is" cannot be guaranteed to meet Cargo Worthy
standards, and they usually have visible damage that prevents them from even
being considered WWT. Companies would rate them higher and earn more
money if they could rate them higher and earn more money. It's theoretically
possible that an As-Is container is WWT, but the seller is unwilling to spend the
time and money to inspect it further because it's too old or has too many
cosmetic flaws. The more likely scenario is that the container is in poor
condition and not WWT. It's probably best to assume the worst.

Where To Buy Your Shipping Container

It's a big difference between knowing what you want and figuring out how and
where to get it. Purchasing containers come in a variety of forms, depending on
your location and preferences. You should have a good idea of the size, type, and
condition of the container you're looking for based on what you learned in the
pre-reading section. You should also have an estimate of how much it will cost.
It's now up to you to find it!
The majority of business-to-consumer (and even consumer-to-consumer)
transactions are now conducted online. Whether you're looking to complete a
transaction or simply find a company, the internet will almost certainly play a
role in your search. As a result, we'll concentrate our efforts online, though there
are a few options for finding a container for sale offline, which we'll discuss at
the end of the chapter.
Whether you want to buy a new or used container, starting your search online
gives you access to a larger inventory than you would find with a local container
sales company, and you don't even have to leave your home. However,
depending on where you buy your container, you may lose the ability to conduct
a pre-purchase inspection, so look for a company you can trust that rates their
container conditions fairly.

Finding Containers Online

Although shipping containers are a global commodity, some countries in some
countries make sourcing containers a little easier than in others. Many of our
readers are from the United States, and while shipping containers are a global
commodity, there are systems in place in some countries that make sourcing
containers a little easier than in others.

Finding Containers Offline

There are a lot of containers sitting behind businesses and homes that are either
infrequently used or forgotten about. They could be empty or full of long-
forgotten items, and getting rid of them isn't always a top priority for busy
people. If you spot one and approach the owner, they may be ecstatic at the
prospect of making some money while also cleaning up their storage yard. So
keep your eyes peeled as you drive around, and if you come across any
abandoned containers, you might be able to strike a deal!

How do i ship
International shipping is still an essential aspect of your business. New
manufacturers frequently require information on how to ship containers. You
will be able to efficiently ship your freight products internationally while
obtaining a great quote for shipping your products if you understand how to ship
containers.
Finding a freight forwarder is the first step in shipping containers. The best
freight forwarders are logistics experts who can provide instant freight quotes
over the internet. To get an instant quote online, you'll need to know the size of
your container, which can be either a 20' or 40' full-size container. You should
also know whether your shipment is door-to-port or port-to-port. A good freight
forwarder will enable you to import and export from any location in the world,
as well as provide instant quotes from multiple freight carriers and competitive
rates for a full container.
Containers come in a variety of shapes and sizes for shipping freight
internationally. Shipments of dry cargo are typically transported in 20' or 40'
steel dry cargo containers, as well as 40' or 45' hi-cube steel dry cargo
containers. 20' or 40' MGSS Containers and 20' or 40' Hi-Cube Containers are
examples of refrigerated containers. A Flat Rock Container with Four
Freestanding Posts or Collapsible Ends is also available for special shipments.
You can always ship LCL if your shipment isn't large enough to fill a full
container's cubic meters (Less-Than-Container-Load). LCL allows you to focus
on efficiency by lowering shipping costs and shortening its time to deliver your
shipment. Because you have smaller cargo when shipping LCL, your shipment
will share container space with other LCL shipments. It's crucial to know
whether you want to ship LCL or FCL (Full-Container-Load). As a result, many
experts consider LCL to be the most cost-effective method of shipping freight
internationally.
 CHAPTER 9. PREPARE, CLEAN, AND
ISOLATE THE CONTAINER

Enough Space
To begin, double-check that the truck will fit. The driver will need at least 100
feet of space for a 40' storage container. The driver will require at least 60' of
space to transport a 20' container. It would help if you also considered the truck's
and unit's heights and any overhead obstructions such as power lines. When
unloading, the trucks can reach a height of 16 feet. There should be enough room
for the trucks to turn around and line up with the containers.

Level Ground
The second most important requirement is that the ground be level. The unit
should be placed on a level, even surface, to support the truck's weight and
container. If the ground is soft or muddy, the truck may sink in and become
stuck. These trucks are extremely heavy, so check with ATR before delivery if
your site is in question. The container doors will not be twisted if the ground is
level. It can be difficult to open doors that are not level and plumb.

Keeping the Container Off the Ground

Under the containers, railroad ties or pressure-treated 6”x6”s can be used to keep
them off the ground. Under a 20' container, ATR recommends two 6”x6” that are
9' long. Use three or four 6′′x6′′s for a 40′ container. This will make it easier to
open the doors. It will also prevent any moisture from the ground from being
absorbed into the wood flooring. If your container is on concrete, you can help
the doors open and close by placing small wood blocks at the corners.

How to clean the containers

It is not necessary to spend a lot of time cleaning your shipping container. We
understand that the process can be tedious due to tight deadlines and frequent
shipping. However, we assure you that it will be far less time-consuming than
 dealing with a rejected shipping container.
Here are some suggestions:

1. Initial Inspection
It's time to dust off that 19 LED utility flashlight you bought 25 years ago, clean
it up, and put it to use. A simple walkthrough of a container can usually reveal
seeds, pollen, liquids, odors, stains, and other items. Look around the container
with your eyes in every corner and pay attention to everything. If customers pull
that container for an inspection, you can bet they'll look for any reason to turn it
around. Seeds are completely unacceptable, even in small quantities. This brings
us to our next point...

2. Leaf Blower
For airing out your container, both air compressors and leaf blowers are
excellent choices. A strong blower will get rid of most of the detached stuff
floating around your container, whether or not you see pollen or seeds in it.

3. Spray it Down
Spraying down your container may be necessary in some cases. Leaking drums
or flexitanks can sometimes stain a container with sticky substances. If you
notice stains, sticky substances, or strange odors during your initial inspection,
it's worth giving your container a good spray. All you'll need is a hose to get the
job done. Just make sure you get everything so you don't have to repeat the
process.

4. Vinegar Anyone?
In some extreme cases, you'll need to put in some effort. But be cautious: we're
not sure if elbow grease will pass customs inspections. With vinegar, it's better to
be safe. Fill a spray bottle with a vinegar solution and apply it to the affected
areas if your container has stains that won't come out with a simple water spray-
down. Allow it to sit for a few minutes before scrubbing it clean.
Note
Before you use your shipping container, make sure it's clean! Any containers
contaminated by liquids, seeds, pollens, or bugs that easily land in containers
during loading are quickly rejected by Customs. Any leaks from previous
shipments, as well as pollen-laden winds, will almost certainly land you in
trouble with US Customs. By simply cleaning your shipping containers, you can
avoid the awkward "Who's paying for it?" conversation with your supplier or
customer. Look for any stains, seeds, or pollen by walking through the container
thoroughly. Depending on what you discover, simply spraying the container with
compressed air or a hose may suffice. We recommend a good vinegar spray in
those tough situations where the stains just won't come out.

Why insulate a container internally?

Many people want to live off the grid, and these homes can help them do so at a
reasonable cost. They reduce not only reliance on fossil fuels but also lower
utility bills.
Insulation is required to make shipping containers habitable. Because heat
moves quickly through steel, they bake in hot climates and freeze in cold
climates.
When you insulate a shipping container, you are separating the conditioned
airspace from the outside environment. It's the same procedure you'd use in
almost any enclosed structure with climate control. As previously stated,
insulating material prevents heat from moving from the warmer to the cooler
side. This improves your container home's energy efficiency by lowering the
amount of energy required to maintain the internal temperature.
Unlike some other types of residential construction, shipping container homes
have a completely steel exterior. Steel is particularly ineffective at keeping your
airspace at a different temperature than the air outside, given how good it is at
conducting thermal energy. As a result, shipping container homes require more
insulation than other types of construction.
And don't forget that the steel of container homes can absorb a lot of radiant
energy from the sun in the summer, making it hotter than the surrounding air.
Simply put, unmodified shipping containers are excellent at keeping the outside
air out. They do, however, a poor job of preventing heat from passing through
their walls.
However, just because container homes are poor at preventing heat transfer
doesn't mean you need to insulate them. Another thing to think about is the
weather.

What are the different kinds of insulation for the interior?

Insulation for shipping containers can be made out of almost any material with
insulating properties. We usually use insulation from the Rockwool or Kingspan
brands. These require installing a timber frame to support the insulation, which
is then covered with either ply or melamine boards.

Rockwool
Another good insulator is Rockwool, which is installed inside the container and
then covered with ply or melamine boards. Rockwool is extremely inexpensive,
and as long as all cavities are completely filled with no air gaps or spaces, it will
perform admirably. When it comes to office conversions and other projects, we
always use this type of insulation. Do we argue that why spend more on higher-
quality insulation when it performs so well? If you're building a home out of
shipping containers, we recommend using a higher-grade insulation material.

Kingspan
Another type of insulation we use is Kingspan, which we install inside the
container and then cover with ply or melamine boards. The more expensive
insulator will allow for thinner wall cavities, maximizing the internal space
inside your container conversion. Kingspan is a popular brand of insulation.

Spray Foam
Spray foam for insulating shipping containers is a frequently asked question.
While we don't use spray foam in our yards, it appears to be very popular in the
international container home market. Spray foam is a type of insulation that
creates a continuous vapor barrier and is easier to install than other types of
insulation. It is, however, a more expensive option. On the subject of
performance, the jury is still out. Even though we are still undecided about
whether or not to use it, it will perform at least as well as any other insulation
material.
Icynene spray foam insulation is the industry standard for resolving
condensation and insulation issues in shipping containers. Foam can be used on
both the inside and outside of the container, depending on the type of foam.
Other materials, when properly installed, will also solve any condensation
issues.

Other options
Any material with insulating properties can be used to insulate shipping
containers, in theory. Anyone who wants to recycle or repurpose other materials
in their container conversion can do so.
Insulating a shipping container is typically done to protect goods from
condensation damage. Still, with the growing popularity of containers for
offices, security offices, and homes, insulation is becoming increasingly
important. Insulation also helps to reduce noise, slows the heating and cooling
process, and lowers energy costs.
You can either insulate your shipping container yourself or have it done by us.
You'll need to build and install a wooden frame within the container and then
install the insulation between the battens if you do it yourself. When the
framework and insulation are finished, you can cover them with ply, melamine,
or another material.

How do insulate the floor

It's simple to insulate a shed floor. Keep it simple and you can finish the job in
an afternoon if you don't get distracted by all the fancy insulation products on the
market.
Here's how to do it:
At least two support blocks should be installed in each joist cavity.
Use a table saw or a handheld jigsaw to cut the wood.
To fit between your floor joists, cut XPS rigid foam insulation.
Layer insulation flush to the top of joists
Remove the flooring of your shed
Put wood blocks under each joist cavity
Re-install flooring
 Renewable energy roofing
A cool roof coating, like insulation, is passive, which means it doesn't require
any additional energy to operate. Consider air conditioning, which is active and
requires the addition of energy in the electricity to operate.
When all else is equal, maximizing passive cooling is a great way to be more
eco-friendly while also saving money. In a moment, we'll show you how.
In our article on heat transfer, we discussed how thermal energy is a type of non-
ionizing radiation. In short, the sun emits energy (known as solar radiation) in
various wavelengths, some of which correspond to light, others to heat, and
others to other things.
The wavelengths that transmit heat, which we'll call thermal energy, are targeted
by cool roof coatings. The coatings are designed to reflect and emit thermal
energy, with little thought given to their impact on other types of radiation (like
visible light, radio waves, and others).
Before we go any further, let's visualize the topics we'll discuss and then break
down each type of energy transfer.
As you can see, a cool roof coating is a viable option to consider when planning
your container home project or upgrading an existing container home. You can
noticeably lower the external temperature of your container with just a little
money and a few hours of work. The exact relationship between this and lower
utility bills is dependent on a variety of factors such as your location, house
design, and amount of insulation, among others. However, we recommend that
all current and future container owners consider a cool roof coating for their
project.
 CHAPTER 10. INSTALLATION OF ALL
REQUIRED SERVICES & UTILITIES

Installation of water lines and drains

The drawings on routes and connections intended to be used for the waterline
should be shown when creating a plan for your shipping container home. To
protect the house from breaking or damage, they will most likely be installed at
the back of the house and underground.
Most engineers or modification companies will use PVC tubes to hold incoming
and outgoing water for piping purposes. Although shipping containers do not
have the luxury of installing heaters, the water can be heated for use using a
solar panel.
You could weld small metal hooks to the shipping container and use a steel cable
wrapped around tubing and fed through the hooks to secure the tube to the
container. This will keep them in place without a lot of effort.
Just because most companies or engineers use PVC tubing doesn't mean you're
stuck with it. Depending on your needs and budget, you can choose from a
variety of other tubing options.
Steel or copper tubing is a good example. It is highly recommended, particularly
for copper tubing, because it is extremely strong and can withstand the incoming
water supply pressure. Since there have been reports of long-term health issues
and problems associated with PVC tubing, especially among younger people,
this could be a great replacement.
You can also expect environmental hazards as a result of such reports, which
contradicts the eco-friendly nature of shipping container homes.

Bathroom Connection
The bathroom design in your shipping container home will be dictated by your
personal preferences and the design of the bathroom in your shipping container
home. When designing a house with limited space, such as a shipping container
home, the size and location of the sink, toilet, and shower must all be considered.
Because a shower uses as much water as a kitchen sink, you can put it close to
the water supply's mainline. This will provide a superior water experience than
having the water travel a long distance to reach the shower.

Kitchen Connection
The kitchen is another major user of water. The need for running water is much
greater than usual where all the cleaning and cooking takes place. It will have
one entry tubing that will receive clean water from the sewer and one exit tubing
that will discharge the sewage.

Service Block
There must be an area that receives the electric and water service for the entire
house, just as there must be an area that receives the electric and water service
for any brick and mortar house. This is an 8-foot-long, 7-foot-high, 40-inch-wide
module that stands in the middle of the container in this case.
The service block receives power and water from the container's floor through a
hole in the one-inch thick marine grade plywood floor. A mini kitchen, toilet,
shower, hot water heater, small vanity with sink, and two small closets are all
found in the service block. This results in a very compact and efficient unit that
can accommodate almost anything.
It functions as an infused box line that controls where and how water is
distributed throughout the shipping container residence. It's not required, but in a
small space like this, it might be more useful than you think.

The Toilet Connection

The toilet consumes the same amount of water as the bathroom and kitchen
combined. As a result, plumbing is a significant factor, even more so than
electricity. It will have a large sewer line to serve the cistern and a smaller one to
serve the toilet's flushing.
You should buy a good quality toilet system for the shipping container, such as a
high-end commercial model. For use, you'll need something strong and long-
lasting. The connection should also be strong, as a 3/4-inch pipe can shoot up to
25 feet high and 150 feet away.
This will allow you to have a good water inflow and outflow in your bathroom
and toilet at the very least.

Other Exterior Uses

You could set up water storage areas to save water from the sewer line in case of
a dry day. You can use the water extensively if you have other water uses, such
as running a greenhouse or a cleaning business.
The plumbing line should be connected to the main water line but pointed
outward. There is no need for an exit tube because there is no cycle of in and out
with exterior uses.

The Sewer and Septic

Sewage is the final component of the plumbing system. Eater must be drained
safely after being used for cooking, clean, and bathe. Plumbing services look
after the drainage pipes to ensure that sewage is properly disposed of, resulting
in a clean and healthy environment.
The procedure is the same as for connecting to a water line. You'll need to look
for a sewerage line in the area. Investigate the costs of establishing the
connection. You can also make your biodegradable septic tank to manage your
waste if you prefer.
A divided septic tank connection is a good sewage technique. The wastewater,
for example, is piped to a small tank behind the toilet that houses two sinks and a
shower. When the small tank reaches capacity, the macerating pump kicks in and
pushes everything to the septic tank.
There is only one vent, which rises a few feet from the toilet tank before
descending through the floor. This appears to work perfectly, and you can rest
assured that no odors will be detected from either inside or outside.

Connecting To Drainage Systems

Finally, we'll look at the sewage system's final component. When waste is not
properly and efficiently disposed of, many people complain about diseases and
environmental hazards. While doing plumbing for the home, keep in mind what
the law requires in terms of having sewer and sewage services available in your
area.
CHAPTER 11. OPTIONS FOR CEILING AND
ROOF INSTALLATION.
The decision to add a roof to your container is based on both personal style
preferences and cost considerations. Obviously, not putting a roof on your
container will save you money at first. Installing a roof and insulating it, on the
other hand, could save you money in the long run on energy bills.
Due to the fact that hot air rises, the majority of the heat lost in your home will
escape through your roof.
Consider that having a roof allows you to insulate the inside of the roof,
allowing you to maintain and keep the inside temperature consistent. A roof with
an overhang prevents rain from falling on your windows and eliminates the need
for a drip bar above them.

Different Roof Styles

Shed
A shed roof, like the one pictured below, is essentially a sloped roof. The
benefits of using a shed-style roof include its low cost and ease of construction.
This type of roof can be built and installed in a matter of days. Solar panels are a
good fit for the long, sloping roof.
Weld right-angled steel plates across the length of the shipping container on both
sides to create a shed-style roof for your shipping container. Attach a wooden
beam to the steel plates on each side of the container roof. The trusses should be
screwed into this beam. The basic structure of the roof is starting to take shape
now. To finish the roof's structure, attach purlins or steel bars for structural
support across the trusses. Simply add 20 foot long purlins to the trusses for this
step, and you're done. Your trusses will then require bracing to protect you from
the wind.
For specifics, you'll have to rely on your structural engineer. This expert
engineer will be able to give you advice on the precise load-bearing
requirements for your roof. Natural stresses imposed on your roofs, such as rain,
wind, and snow loads, are factored into this figure, which varies by region.
You can use shingles, galvanized metal sheets, or coated steel sheets to cover
your roof. Coated steel is the most durable, but galvanized metal sheets are both
easy to install and long-lasting.
The final step is to make sure your roof has enough ventilation. Your trusses
should overhang the container as shown below to achieve this. Underneath your
trusses, install a fascia and soffit board. Air should be able to flow in and out of
the roof through the soffit board, which should have at least an inch air gap in
the middle, covered with wire mesh.
Make sure you allow for ventilation at the gable ends. Do this by simply cutting
slots out of the steel using a disc cutter. This will allow air to pass through the
roof and avoid heat traps and condensation which causes rust.

Gable
The following option is to use a gable roof, as shown below. When most people
think of a traditional home, they envision a gable-styled roof. It has a distinct
triangle appearance. The benefit of a gable roof is that it has a sloped roof that
allows for excellent water drainage. This reduces the likelihood of leaks and
extends the life of your roof. Its popularity stems from the fact that it offers more
ceiling space than other roof styles.
The stages for installing a shed-style roof are similar to the stages for installing
this roof.
Weld right-angled steel plates across the length of the shipping container on both
sides to install a gable style roof on your shipping container. Attach a wooden
beam to the steel plates on each side of the container roof. The roof's basic
structure is starting to take shape as you screw your trusses into these wooden
beams. To finish the roof's structure, attach purlins across the trusses.
You can use shingles, galvanized metal sheets, or coated steel sheets, just like the
shed-style roof.
Now check to see if the roof has enough ventilation. As shown below, the trusses
should overhang the container. After that, you can install fascia and soffit boards
beneath your trusses. Air should be able to flow in and out of the roof through
the soffit board, which should have at least an inch air gap in the middle, covered
with wire mesh.
 Flat
Some people may be satisfied with a flat roof, which the shipping container
already has. Although it is clearly less expensive not to roof your shipping
container, you risk water pooling on the roof.
If you don't want to roof your containers, you should put up a quick safety
barrier. Place a tarpaulin sheet on the container's roof and cover it with asphalt
rolls. This will act as an additional barrier between the dampness and the
container's roof.

Various types of studs

There are four basic stud types:
Class 1 has a free-running thread on one end and interference fit on the
other. It's also known as a gland or a tap-end stud.
Class 2 threads are free-running on both ends. A double-end stud is
another name for this type of stud.
A three-bolt stud used in high-temperature/pressure applications is
classified as Class 3.
General-purpose applications are classified as Class 4.
 CHAPTER 12. FLOORWOODS
If you're a first-time DIY container home builder, you're probably wondering
how to replace your shipping container floor.
To remove a container's plywood floor, begin by cutting around the holes of the
bolts that secure it to the container's bottom. The best tool for the job is a simple
reciprocating saw, but a drill with a specialty coring bit, circular saw, or hand
saw will also work.
Tension is the only thing holding the floor in place once all of the floor bolts
have been cut out of the plywood. Because wood swells when exposed to
moisture, this tension in an older shipping container can be extremely difficult to
overcome. A medium-sized crowbar is usually used to break the tension and
remove the plywood.
A full-length pry bar may be required in certain situations. In extreme cases,
cutting the floor into smaller pieces may be the only option, but this should only
be used as a last resort because it is time-consuming.
Before laying your new floor, it's a good idea to consider insulating the space
between the steel cross members once the old one has been completely removed.
Insulating a container home's floor can improve its energy efficiency and
comfort significantly, and it usually pays for itself in the long run by lowering
heating and cooling costs.
Even if you intend to keep your container's original floor intact for your build,
it's a good idea to drill access holes and insulate the floor with spray foam before
covering it with any secondary materials.

1. Original Plywood or Bamboo Flooring

Plywood or bamboo flooring is used in the construction of shipping containers,
depending on the manufacturer. They infuse insect pesticides into the original
flooring to protect the floor and the contents of the containers as they transport
cargo across the ocean. Although some people may be concerned, there is no
need to be concerned about the pesticides in the flooring because there is only a
small amount that is harmful to insect stowaways. Many container
manufacturers choose to keep the original flooring or seal it with an epoxy
coating when converting the units into structures.
 2. Imitation Wood Vinyl Planks
The addition of faux wood vinyl planks to a repurposed container helps to create
a stylish and professional environment. Organizations that request this type of
flooring usually want it in their offices or living areas. The addition of this
flooring transforms the modified container into a more comfortable and
welcoming environment.
Falcon offers imitation wood vinyl planks in three different finishes: light,
medium, and dark. The planks will be installed directly over the original
shipping container flooring, regardless of color.

3. Coin Vinyl
Coin vinyl shipping container flooring is water-resistant and easy to clean with a
mop and hose. Coin vinyl shipping container floors are available in two color
options: tan and grey. This flooring is ideal for businesses that use shipping
containers as bathrooms, greenhouses, or offices with many foot traffic. It's also
a great surface for protection against oil, dirt, acid, and other contaminants. The
original plywood flooring is rolled out directly over the coin vinyl.

4. Aluminum or Steel Flooring

Steel flooring from shipping containers is frequently requested for industrial
applications. Steel plates with a smooth finish or tread steel with high traction
are available for this shipping container flooring option. Both options are
watertight and can be wiped down with warm water.

5. Epoxy Coating
Many of the above shipping container floor options can be enhanced with an
epoxy coating to provide an extra layer of protection. Falcon will apply a grey
epoxy coating to the original container or steel flooring if requested. The
application of an epoxy coat provides a slip-resistant surface as well as a nice
finish.
Many organizations that choose to keep the shipping container's original flooring
also choose to cover it with an epoxy coating. This includes things like
remodeled offices, storage areas, and industrial enclosures, among other things.
 Flooring Checklist
Construction strategies
Concrete piers and container fastening
Container interface and connection
Post and Beam structure and fastening
Bill of Materials
A detailed list of building materials.
Small-town merchants vs. big-box retailers
Using purchasing power for materials.
Used “wind and watertight” containers versus new “one-trip”
containers.
Pesticide-treated plywood floors – understanding pesticide treatments,
encapsulation techniques, and alternative solutions
 CHAPTER 13. OUTDOOR TRICKS AND
DESIGN
It's fair to say that many shipping container homes have a distinct appearance.
Though descriptors like industrial, rugged, and modern have been used, it's
difficult to put into words.
If you like that kind of aesthetic, containers are a great platform to build on. This
type of architecture is usually associated with multimillion-dollar costs, but
containers make it much more affordable.
If the exterior appearance of a shipping container doesn't exactly rev your motor,
you're not locked in. Containers enable a diverse range of exterior design
options.
For exterior cladding, wood, cement board, metals, and other materials are used.
Although combining cladding and exterior insulation is common, it is not
required.
Container buildings can be clad to blend in with either the natural environment
(for example, the colors and textures of the plants and terrain at your
construction site) or the built environment (for example, the colors and textures
of the plants and terrain at your construction site) (for example, the architectural
style of your neighborhood). They can also be used to imitate local vernacular
architecture while maintaining a more modern structure's skeleton.
While exterior cladding is primarily used for aesthetic purposes, it also has other
benefits. Your shipping container home may be easier to heat and cool
depending on the type of cladding you choose.
As you'll learn later in the Learn section, thermal radiation accounts for a
significant portion of the heat gained by shipping containers. By choosing the
right materials, you can dramatically change your home's ability to emit, reflect,
and absorb thermal energy.
In a nutshell, there are several options available to you. Regular containers can
maintain their exterior appearance, which can be enhanced with bright colors
and patterns. This will pique people's interest without a doubt. Alternatively, you
can use cladding to conceal your project's container-based origins so that only
those who witnessed it being built are aware that containers are present. Between
these two extremes, however, there is an infinite number of possibilities.
 Fascinating Layouts
The humble shipping container is incredibly adaptable, and it can be used to
make almost anything. The containers are attractive because they are already
constructed as complete, weatherproof, and structurally sound units. All you
have to do now is adjust and arrange them to create your ideal design.

Container home exterior design with or without

insulation
As a cost-effective and environmentally friendly housing option, shipping
container homes are becoming increasingly popular. With over 300 million
freight containers sitting idle at ports around the world, the potential for
expanding this innovative and environmentally friendly housing option is only
increasing. Furthermore, many real estate experts believe that shipping
containers as a housing alternative will become more synergistic with more
traditional prefabricated building options in the future.
However, one of the most difficult challenges that shipping container homes face
is figuring out how to insulate the shipping container properly. A used shipping
container with a price tag of $2,000 may appear to be an ideal housing option for
those seeking a cost-effective and environmentally friendly home. Many people
dislike metal boxes, but the prospect of living in one during the hot summer days
is less appealing. Fortunately, there are various insulation options for converting
metal boxes into comfortable and livable living spaces.
The shallow depth of the walls is the main challenge in properly insulating a
container home. While the metal structure of the shipping container provides a
strong and long-lasting wall, the lack of thickness makes proper insulation
difficult.
Before you choose an insulation material, you must first decide how you want to
construct the walls of your container home. If you're connecting several shipping
containers for a multi-container home, adding space on the inside of the walls
may not be an issue due to the extra square footage of the house. If you choose
to build a tiny home out of one or two shipping containers, you will be limited in
space. In this case, adding exterior insulation and then covering it with exterior
cladding might be a better choice. After that, you have the option of leaving the
 interior walls exposed to metal or plastering them.

Various types of exterior insulation and installation

methods

Insulating concrete blocks and concrete block insulation

Require specialized knowledge and abilities
Surface-bonded insulating concrete blocks are sometimes stacked
without mortar (dry-stacked).
Foam board or rigid foam
A 1/2-inch gypsum board or other building-code approved material
must be used for interior applications for fire safety.
Weatherproof facing is required for exterior applications.

Insulating concrete forms (ICFs)

Assembled as part of the structure of the building.

Loose-fill and blown-in

Blown into place with specialized equipment and occasionally poured in.

Reflective system
Foils, films, or papers fitted between wood-frame studs, joists, rafters, and
beams.

Blanket insulation
Insulation in the form of batts or rolls is the most common and widely available
type. It is made up of flexible fibers, the most common of which is fiberglass.
Batts and rolls made of mineral (rock and slag) wool, plastic fibers, and natural
fibers like cotton and sheep's wool are also available. Find out more about the
insulation materials available.
The following widths of batts and rolls correspond to the standard spacing of
wall studs, attic trusses or rafters, and floor joists: R-13 or R-15 batts can be
used in 2-inch x 4-inch walls, while R-19 or R-21 products can be used in 2-inch
x 6-inch walls. Continuous rolls can be trimmed and hand-cut to fit. They come
in two variations: with or without facings. A facing (such as kraft paper, foil-
kraft paper, or vinyl) is frequently used as a vapor and/or air barrier by
manufacturers. For basement walls and other places where the insulation will be
exposed, batts with a special flame-resistant facing are available in various
widths. A facing also aids in the installation by making fastening easier.

Installation Basis For Exterior

The order in which each component of the home's exterior is installed is just as
important to its safety and comfort as it is to its safety and comfort. Although
both walls and roofs are part of the exterior finishing process, this research will
concentrate solely on walls. The process of installing each piece of a home's
walls is discussed next, in the order in which they are installed.

Wall Sheathing
Wall sheathing encloses the home and is the first thing that's installed as part of
the exterior. It strengthens the walls and allows water to drain away from home.
Two materials commonly used for wall sheathing are 1/2" plywood and 1/2"
oriented strand board, or OSB. In some colder areas, where additional insulation
is needed, 1/2" rigid foam is used in combination with the sheathing material.

Drainage Plane
The wall sheathing can be taped at the seams, wrapped with additional material,
or both for better drainage. A layer of building paper or house wrap is applied to
the home after being wrapped to create a continuous drainage plane. House
wrap, a newer material, allows moisture vapor to escape, which helps to prevent
mold and mildew growth.

Windows
Many windows have plastic fins around the outside that repel water, preventing
water from leaking into the home through the openings around windows.
However, because windows are especially vulnerable to water leaks, the flashing
should be installed around the window opening. (Flashing also refers to the
process of putting the material up.) When the windows are installed, two types
of flashing material should be used around the window opening: flexible and
rigid. The rigid flashing helps to direct water away from the opening between the
window and the wall, while the fins and flexible flashing create a continuous
seal around the outside of the window.
Many windows are double-glazed to improve the comfort of your home. Double-
glazed windows have two panes of glass with an air space between them.
Outside, windows can be clad in vinyl or aluminum to help reduce outdoor
maintenance required. For these windows, a specific color that doesn't fade with
time or sun exposure can be used in the manufacturing process, eliminating the
need for painting.

Exterior Doors
Doors, like windows, can have flexible and rigid flashing on all sides to protect
the opening from water leaks and direct water away from the door. For security,
exterior doors are usually reinforced with steel and have some type of insulation
inside to keep your home comfortable.

Flashing Along Walls

In addition to the flashing around windows and doors, there is flashing along the
exterior walls in several other places to help direct water away from the house.
When siding is used, starter-strip flashing is installed where the siding's bottom
course meets the foundation wall's top. Masonry flashing is installed where the
brick meets the top of the foundation wall on a brick or stone facade.

Facade Materials
The wooden wall sheathing is protected from the direct impact of the weather by
the facade materials. They also give a house its own distinct appearance. Two of
the most common facade materials are vinyl siding and brick. Many modern
facade materials are designed to be low-maintenance or maintenance-free for
homeowners. Weep holes in brick facades allow water to drain from behind the
brick to the outside.
 Trim
Trim is the final step, and it adds the finishing touch to the home's exterior
appearance. Trim can be ordered pre-painted with enamel in many cases.
The exterior decisions you make will help keep your family safe and
comfortable, as well as keep your home looking nice.

Placing Insulation Externally

When renovating or remodeling an older home, adding extra insulation to the
exterior walls is a great way to improve the thermal performance of the walls
and reduce energy use while lowering heating bills, lowering carbon footprint,
and increasing comfort. It may appear simple to go down to the local hardware
store and buy a few packs of rigid insulation panels and screw them to your
walls, but unless you know how your existing walls are built and how they
"work" in terms of keeping moisture, heat, and cold where they should be for
durability, the insulation panels may not be the only thing you're screwing up!
Adding insulation to the exterior of a home correctly begins with determining
what climate zone you are building in and how the existing wall is constructed to
ensure you are not creating a condensation point in a potentially hazardous
location within the wall assembly or preventing internal moisture from the
occasional leak in the exterior skin from running away, allowing the wall
structure to dry out.
To meet their specific climate needs, walls must be constructed. All too often,
‘the best wall assemblies' migrate from their native climate to one where they do
not belong, such as installing interior vapor barriers on air-conditioned homes in
hot, humid climates, which should never be done if you want your home to last.
Creating long-lasting, healthy, and sustainable homes necessitate thorough
research and planning, as changing one element without considering how it
affects the building envelope's dynamics is a recipe for disaster.
The best way to avoid a nightmare exterior wall renovation and insulation
project is to educate yourself, so you don't get talked into the wrong wall system
by a general contractor who isn't well-versed in the subject.
 Painting exterior insulation
This procedure entails covering the container's outer wall. The living area will be
unaffected by the thickness of the insulating partition. In addition, the insulation
protects the walls from the effects of bad weather.
Keep in mind that this process may be more expensive than internal insulation
because you'll have to cover larger sides of the walls with different materials. To
cover the insulation partitions, you can use wood, plaster, or even stone. This
method provides maximum protection and, if desired, eliminates the container
effect.
When it comes to reducing the amount of heat transfer produced by the sun,
light-colored paint on exterior house walls performs better than dark paint
because light-colored paint reflects heat rather than absorbs it. But, more
importantly, there is no paint on the market that can replace good insulation
practices. Most local building codes demand that walls and ceilings have a
certain amount of insulation, measured in R-values. Your best bet is to stick to a
well-thought-out energy-saving strategy that includes using standard insulation
materials like fiberglass batts or blown-in cellulose filaments, as well as energy-
efficient windows and doors.

Finishing an exterior without insulation

Despite their obvious toughness, cargo shipping containers appear to blend in
seamlessly with the modern, twenty-first-century architecture. In fact, metal
combined with glass now makes up a significant portion of urban architecture.
With this in mind, the idea of residential houses with metal structures rather than
traditional wooden-frame ones should not seem so strange.
Because container metal walls are impermeable, it's critical to make the cladding
layer on the outside breathable. Any moisture or water vapor that may
inadvertently infiltrate the space between the exterior cladding and the
container's wall will be able to escape in good weather. Because CorTen steel is
not 100% corrosion-proof, most insulations are permeable and susceptible to
mold and mildew. The supporting wooden frame will eventually rot, the
accumulated moisture will damage the structure.
In practice, the choice of material(s) for container house exterior cladding is
influenced not only by aesthetics (including colors, texture, finish, geometrical
profiles, and so on), but also by cost (materials and labor), R-factor (if used as
part of an overall insulation strategy), durability, and maintenance requirements.
 Timber
Timber has been used as the main construction material in residential housing for
a long time, primarily in the form of logs. It's no surprise that wood regains
popularity as an exterior cladding material, thanks to the recent trend of "getting
closer to nature" (of which container-based houses are a big part). It provides
classy elegance in an urban ambiance, whether stained or painted (usually in
natural colors). Timber cladding will softly blend with nature in the countryside
due to its rustic appearance, mitigating the effects of "human intrusion." In both
cases, wood adds a visual boost of warmth to otherwise unremarkable, colorless
structures. Timber is, of course, a renewable and environmentally friendly
resource!

Cladding Installation
Installing cladding (along with a layer of insulation) outside container walls is
more difficult than for traditional wooden-frame houses. The lack of a
pressboard (or, for that matter, any wooden components) supporting installation
with nails or staples is what makes a big difference (and complicates the
process).
Metal screws are not only inconvenient and time-consuming to use. The
airtightness (or rather, impermeability) of the entire structure will be jeopardized
by holes in the walls. One could argue that the installation of windows, doors,
vents, and other airtight devices has already eliminated the airtightness, but
airtightness (hermeticity) is not the preferred state of the habitable space. The
truth is that air, moisture, and water infiltration along the window and door
frames can be seen and eliminated. The mounting holes will be randomly
distributed across the walls, making them virtually invisible and inaccessible to
inspection. And it's this that makes the difference so painful.

Metal
While it may seem strange to add extra metal cladding to the metal container
walls, such solutions can sometimes be beneficial. The main one is usually –
adding an exterior layer of thermal insulation while maintaining the metal
envelope's weather-related benefits. After all, metal cladding is resistant to the
elements, UV rays, insects, fire (and the list goes on...), and is durable and
strong. Metal does not require much maintenance other than periodic washing,
checking for corrosion (if steel), and re-painting if necessary.

CHAPTER 14. VARIOUS SOLUTIONS TO

PAINT THE CONTAINER.
Are you concerned that your container will stand out in a crowd? Or are you
worried that a bit of rust will make it look old? Use container paint to extend the
life of your storage solution.
This guide will teach you everything you need to know about shipping container
paint.

We'll go over some tips, FAQs, and how-tos, such as:

The type of primer and paint that should be used.
Questions about specification and toxicity.
How to paint both the exterior and interior of a house.
Best practices for maintenance.
Recommendations for custom logos and branding best practices.
The price of refinishing a shipping container.
Adding paint to your container before purchasing it.

What primer to use?

If you're looking for a container primer, consider the following options.
In a moment, we'll get into the specifics of each.
A simple rust reformer transforms rust into a paintable surface without
the need for sanding. It also aids in the prevention of future corrosion.
Using a DTM waterborne primer and paint in one application saves
time and money.
A high-quality waterborne direct-to-metal (DTM) epoxy primer.

What paint to use on shipping containers?

To paint and maintain your container, use a marine-grade direct-to-metal (DTM)
waterborne color.
The following are some of the advantages of using high-quality, industrial-grade
waterborne container paint:
Resistant to water and corrosion.
Long-lasting durability.
There are fewer harmful fumes.
It has anti-yellowing properties.
DO NOT USE SOLUTION-BASED CONTAINER PAINT.
Although it takes less time to dry and has a shinier finish, the harmful emissions
it emits can be hazardous.
You could also use new waterborne acrylic alkyd paint technology to get the best
of both worlds.
This new container paint technology provides the benefits of a waterborne
enamel in terms of health, the environment, and non-yellowing. Alkyd and other
solvent-based (oil-based) enamels have a lustrous finish, are easy to apply, and
last a long time.
If you want to paint a fancy mural or logo on your unit, the new waterborne
acrylic alkyd technology is also great. It comes with acrylic paints that are
perfect for painting art and colors on top of it.

Steps To Paint Your Container

Wait until the weather is dry and sunny before painting your container.
Prepare your container by cleaning it and sanitizing it. Use a pressure
washer to remove dirt and dust.
Remove excess rust patches, corrosion, shipping line decals, loose
paint, and/or grease from the container's surface with a wire brush or
low-grit sandpaper.
Pressure wash the surface once more to make sure it's clean.
Apply some vinegar to the areas that require extra attention, then allow
your container to DRY.
Sandblasting your container may remove the original protective marine-
grade paint and rust-resistant zinc coating, so avoid it.

Spray Or Roll A “Rust Reformer” Primer As An

 Adhesive.
Apply primer OVER the original marine-grade paint with a paintbrush
or roller. If you don't need to paint your entire container and want to
save money, apply the primer only to the affected and/or rusted areas
that need to be repaired.
Allow the primer to dry completely.
You can also use a paint and primer product that is combined with
increasing adhesion and saving time.
A High-Quality Waterborne DTM Acrylic Top Coat Can Be Sprayed Or
Rolled On.
After the primer has dried completely, apply the paint with a sprayer or
a heavy-duty roller.
Applying two or three coats of paint is recommended. So, between
coats, make sure to wait for each one to dry completely.

Follow these steps if you want to paint the inside of your

container:
Make sure your unit is ventilated and open.
Cover your nose, mouth, and eyes with appropriate protection.
Spraying container paint on wooden floors is not a good idea.
Prime the steel frame with a high-quality epoxy zinc-rich primer.
After that, apply a high-build waterborne epoxy coating.

How to Maintain Container Paint

Maintaining the paint integrity of your container will reduce rust and corrosion
and extend its life.
As a result, you won't have to waste time, money, or energy looking for a new
unit down the road.
To reduce rust and improve paint adhesion, follow these maintenance best
practices for container paint:
Use a rust reformer to turn rust into a primer by spraying it on the
affected areas (i.e. firm, airtight, paintable surface).
Sanding is usually not required before using these products.
•
 If you want to go the extra mile, you can apply vinegar to problem areas
first. If you go the extra mile, let the vinegar dry completely before
painting the container.
After priming the area, apply a high-quality DTM waterborne container
paint in the color of your choice by spraying or rolling it on.
Use more than one coat if time and money permit. However, make sure
to let each layer dry before moving on to the next.
Alternatively, consider using a paint and primer combination to
complete the project in a single step

What can you do to make the outside more appealing?

Crisscross Stack
By stacking your shipping containers perpendicular to one another, you can
make a crisscross stack. This can be in the shape of an "X," "T," or "L." You'll
not only create an even more unique home design by crisscrossing the stack, but
you'll also create rooftop balcony areas and covered porch areas all in one.

Side–By–Side
As the name implies, the side-by-side design pairs two or more containers
together to create a larger space. This frees up more space in the floor plan for
hallways, additional rooms, larger spaces, and greater separation between rooms.
To add depth and dimension, place the two containers offset from one another
for a more unique look.

Stacked
Stacked shipping container home plans stack two containers on top of each other
to create a multilevel home with more space. Because the house is still long and
narrow, a cascading floorplan is possible. Some rooms, however, can be moved
to the second level in order to expand the space. A shorter or narrower container
on top of some stacked designs provides space for an outdoor rooftop balcony.
 Single Container
The smallest and most basic shipping container home design is the single
container design. It's also the most affordable option. It is made up of only one
shipping container, with a layout that is most likely made up of cascading rooms
rather than halls. It's a one-story home with the option of a loft if space permits.

People who want to live in a unique home or build an environmentally friendly

home should consider shipping container homes. While the containers
themselves are inexpensive, the additional costs of constructing the home, such
as land and construction materials, can quickly add up. Consider your budget
and housing goals before purchasing or building a shipping container home to
ensure it's the right choice for you and your family.
CHAPTER 15. 20 FLOOR PLAN IDEAS

Plan.1
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Plan.14
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Plan.17
Plan.18
Plan.19
Plan.20
 CHAPTER 16. HOW TO TURN SHIPPING
CONTAINERS INTO SWIMMING POOLS?
This is a huge deal! Don't get carried away with your imagination; this is still a
shipping container home. Isn't it incredible? You have the freedom to dream big
and wild.
While there are many different ways to design the pool, here are some basic
steps to get your container pool project started. To begin, obtain planning
permits from your local government and homeowner's association. Before
choosing the size of your shipping containers, check the regulations for depth,
fencing, and other requirements.
Second, enlist the assistance of a structural engineer in the planning and design
stages. Engineers can calculate the weight of the water and determine the
fortifications required for the container to hold the entire weight of the water. To
make the container strong enough to hold 4,800 gallons of water, add heavy-duty
pool coping to the top. You can also add glass panel windows to the side for
aesthetic reasons.
Third, determine the proper box dimensions, cut according to the design, and
cover any sharp edges.
Fourth, make the container waterproof by lining it with plywood and watertight
welding and adding extra steel on the inside. After that, rust treats and paints the
container's interior and exterior.
Fifth, add plumbing to your container pool, including pumps, pipes, and filters.
Take into account the water supply, drainage, and energy sources.
Sixth, if you're going to put in a jacuzzi, make an interior divider out of durable,
heat-resistant plastic to separate the pool from the hot tub. To save water, the
jacuzzi can be heated separately. This also implies that you can use your pool in
the winter.
Seventh, you can build a concrete slab or use 20 centimeters of compact gravel
for a proper pool bed. In addition, a layer of limestone should be applied to the
soil beneath the pool to protect it. Depending on the size and specifications of
your pool, the construction process could take six to eight weeks. After you've
double-checked everything for safety, you can now fill it up with water and
enjoy your pool!
Almost anything, including a swimming pool and a jacuzzi, can now be made
out of shipping containers. You only need to make sure you have all of the
necessary permits, follow the rules, and design the pool with stability, insulation,
drainage, and electrical and water sources in mind. You can also make the design
any shape or size you want, as long as it is strong enough to support the weight
of the water. Allow your imagination to run wild as you design a modern, low-
cost pool to meet your exercise and recreation needs.
 CONCLUSION
Shipping container homes are the newest eco-friendly construction boom. The
primary building material for these one-of-a-kind homes is new or repurposed
shipping containers. You can build your own shipping container house for a
shockingly low cost since shipping containers are inexpensive and numerous.
But, before you decide to build your own container house, you must understand
that a shipping container home is not the same as a typical home.
Building a shipping container home can be one of the most satisfying
experiences you will ever have. One of the most significant benefits of building
your home with shipping containers is cost savings and mobility. They can also
be built at breakneck speed. They are cheap and quick to construct, but they are
also environmentally responsible; for every shipping container upcycled, we
save around 3500KG of steel. However, much as with traditional home
construction, one should ensure that they have enough information before
building out of a shipping container.
 Do Not Go Yet; One Last Thing To Do
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