THE FREE ELF

Crochet toy pattern

Designer: Olga Krylova

Instagram: @fox_and_dog

JUNE 2022
My elf turned out 22 cm
high (about 8.6 inches).
MATERIALS
1. Yarn:
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of creamy beige color
Pay attention that in case (number 87) - 1.5 of a skein (main) - it’s better to prepare

of using materials other enough yarn in case if your toy will be larger.
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of ivory white color
than listed your toy size
(number 05) - less than one skein (for clothes).
will differ from mine.
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of white color (number
01) - just a little (for eyes and for diary).
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of black color (number
YarnArt Jeans yarn can 53) - just a little (for diary).
be substituted with Alize
Alize Cotton Gold yarn of graphite color (number 182) -
Cotton Gold of matching
color. Pay your attention just a little (for sock).
that Alize yarn is slightly 2. 12 mm glass eyes of green color.
thinner (100g/330m) and 3. Fiberfill for toys (hollow fiber).
it may affect your toy 4. 2 mm crochet hook Clover (or 1.75 mm of any other
size.
brand) - US 4.
5. 1.2 mm copper wire for frame.
6. Needle, scissors, pins.
Also the toy size depends 7. Stitch marker.
largely on the technique 8. «Moment Crystal» transparent glue.
you crochet single crochet 9. Duct tape or adhesive tape for wire wrapping.
stitches (V-shaped sc, X-
shaped sc, semi-X shaped
sc). I give the information
about differences between
these methods in the next
page.

My stitches have semi-X

shape. If you use the
technique which creates “V
shaped” stitches, then your
elf would probably be
bigger.
 The way you crochet
your stitches play an
important role. My
V AND X SHAPED STITCHES
stitches have a semi-X Single crochet stitches can have a shape of “V” or “X”. The
shape. shape our stitches get depends on the way we grab the
working thread when crocheting.

When you work in “yarn

«V-shape (Yarn over technique)». This way is counted as a
over technique”, your classic one. In this case we insert the hook into the stitch
crochet pattern becomes (photo 1) and you place your hook under the yarn (photo 2).
more smooth, and the And pull the yarn over the hook from back to front (photo
fabric will be more 3). Then pull the yarn in the same way (photo 4) and finish
stretchy. the stitch.

When you do “yarn under”, «X-shape (Yarn under technique)». In this case we insert
the fabric becomes more the hook into the stitch (photo 5) and place your hook over
relief and dense because of the yarn (photo 6). Pull the yarn through (photo 7). Then
twisting the loops. pull the yarn one more time in the same way (photo 8) and
finish the stitch.

Photo 1. Photo 2. Photo 3. Photo 4.

Photo 5. Photo 6. Photo 7. Photo 8.

My stitches have a “semi-X” shape. I start to crochet a stitch like in the yarn under technique (photo
3), then pull the thread and grab the yarn for the second time like in yarn over technique (photo 8).
 This pattern doesn’t include
ABBREVIATIONS
any crochet lessons. It’s MR - magic ring
ch - chain
supposed that you know how to sc - single crochet
crochet basic stitches. hdc - half double crochet
dec - decrease
inc - increase
The pattern difficulty is sl st - slip stitch

medium. (..)*n - repeat the combination in

parentheses n times
(x) - at the end of every round I write a
total number of stitches in parentheses
In this pattern we use US terminology.

Notes:

The toy pieces are crocheted in a spiral

without making a turning chain (until
otherwise stated).

For working at this toy I use invisible

decreases:
I insert the crochet hook into the front loop of
the first stitch, don’t pull the thread and at
once insert the hook into both loops of the
second stitch, pull the thread through all
stitches on the hook.

I hope that you will like the process of

creating this elf! Will be glad to see your
finished toy! Please tag me @fox_and_dog
under the photos of your finished toys and
use the hashtag #crochet_with_foxanddog,
so I can see your work!
 HEAD
Crochet in creamy beige color in a spiral. Stuff as you go, but not too firmly. I stuffed the elf’s head
slighter than the other toys, because we will need to make a tight needle sculpting. Stuff the top
part of the head firmer, that the lower part. It’s better to add more fiberfill after the needle
sculpting is finished.
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (1sc, inc)*6 (18)
4 round: (1sc, inc, 1sc)*6 (24)
5 round: (3sc, inc)*6 (30)
6 round: (2sc, inc, 2sc)*6 (36)
7 round: (5sc, inc)*6 (42)
8 round: (3sc, inc, 3sc)*6 (48)
9 round: (7sc, inc)*6 (54)
10 round: (4sc, inc, 4sc)*6 (60)
11 round: (9sc, inc)*6 (66)
12 round: (5sc, inc, 5sc)*6 (72)
13-27 rounds: 72sc (72) - 15 rounds
28 round: (dec, 6sc)*9 (63)
29 round: (dec, 5sc)*9 (54)
30 round: (dec, 4sc)*9 (45)
31 round: (dec, 3sc)*9 (36)
32 round: (dec, 2sc)*9 (27)
33 round: (dec, 1sc)*9 (18)
Cut the thread and fasten off.

NOSE
Crochet in a spiral with the yarn of creamy beige color.
Don’t stuff the piece.

1 round: 6sc in MR (6)

2 round: 6sc (6)
3 round: inc, 5sc (7)
4 round: 2inc, 5sc (9)
5-6 rounds: 9sc (9) - 2 rounds
The marker goes across the nose side.
7 round: inc, 2sc, inc, 5sc (11)
8 round: 1sc, hdc inc, 2hdc, hdc inc, 1sc, 2dec, sl st (11)

Cut the thread, leaving a thread tail for sewing.

 EARS
Crochet in creamy beige color. The ears are crocheted
in turning rows: make ch1 at the end of every row and
turn the piece.

1 row: leave a thread tail for sewing and make ch5,

crochet from the second ch from the hook: 3sc, inc, ch,
turn (5)
2 row: inc, 4sc, ch, turn (6)
3 row: 5sc, inc, ch, turn (7)
4 row: inc, 2sc, inc, 3sc, ch, turn (9)
5-6 rows: 9sc, ch, turn (9) - 2 rows
7 row: 7sc, 2inc, ch, turn (11)
8 row: 2inc, 9sc, ch, turn (13)
9 row: 3sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 3sc, 2inc, ch, turn (17)
10 row: 17sc, ch, turn (17)
11 row: (6sc, inc)*2, 3sc, ch, turn (19)
12 row: 19sc, ch, turn (19)
13 row: 14sc, 2sl st (16) - short row

Cut the thread and fasten off.

Make the second ear in the same way mirrored.

1 row: make ch5, from the second ch from the hook:

inc, 3sc, ch, turn (5)
2 row: 4sc, inc, ch, turn (6)
3 row: inc, 5sc, ch, turn (7)
4 row: 3sc, inc, 2sc, inc, ch, turn (9)
5-6 rows: 9sc, ch, turn (9) - 2 rows
7 row: 2inc, 7sc, ch, turn (11)
8 row: 9sc, 2inc, ch, turn (13)
9 row: 2inc, 3sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 3sc, ch, turn (17)
10 row: 17sc, ch, turn (17)
11 row: 3sc, (inc, 6sc)*2, ch, turn (19)
12 row: 19sc, ch, turn (19)
13 row: 5sl st, 14sc (19)

Cut the thread, leaving a long thread tail for sewing.

Photo 1 EYELIDS
Crochet in creamy beige color in turning rows. The
instructions for the left and for the right lids differ
slightly.

The first piece:

1 row: make ch10, from the second ch from the
hook: 9sc, turn (don’t make ch) (9)
2 row: from the second stitch from the hook 7sl st,
inc into the last stitch, turn (don’t make ch) (9)
3 row: 5sc, sl st (6) - short row
Cut the thread, leaving a thread tail for sewing.

Photo 2 The second piece:

1 row: make ch10, from the second ch from the
hook 8sc, inc, ch, turn (10)
2 row: 7sl st, turn (7) - short row
3 row: from the second ch from the hook 5sc, 1sl st
(6)
Cut the thread, leaving a thread tail for sewing.

EYES
Crochet in white color. We need to make two
Photo 3 identical pieces (photo 2).

1 round: 6sc in MR (6)

2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: 12sc (12)

Finish with sl st into the next stitch and cut the

thread, leaving a long thread tail for sewing.

Now prepare glass eyes with a diameter of 12 mm.

The next stage will be making face details for our elf.
 NEEDLE SCULPTING
AND EYES
Mark two points on the head between rounds 20 and 21.
The distance between these two points equals 15 stitches.
For a needle sculpting use the thread of the same color we
have used for the head.

Insert the threaded needle into the point on the head

bottom, somewhere in the middle of the distance between
the pins (point 1 in the photo), leaving a thread tail. Pull it
out from point 2 (it is located, leaving one round lower
3. 4. from our pin). Make a short stitch (the length is about 2-3
2. 5. stitches), insert the needle into point 3 (it is located,
leaving about 1 round up from the pin). Run the needle
through the bridge of the nose, pull the thread out from
1. point 4 (it’s located leaving 1-2 rounds up from our pin).
Make one short stitch again (the length is about 2-3
stitches) and insert the needle into point 5 (leaving about
1 round down from the pin).
Pull the needle out from the head bottom, leaving 1 stitch
from the starting point (from point 1).

Now pull both the thread tails tightly enough and tie a
knot. Don’t weave in the thread tails yet, we will use them
to make one more needle sculpting.

Now embroider the eyes. Place them between rounds 15

and 20 in the way that the finish of the work (the thread) is
located on the left side (for both eyes). Fix them with pins.

Pay attention that the eyes should be sewn in a certain

way. Our eyes are convex. We have to try to make the
top part of the eye to be flat, and the lower part - more
convex. We should get a shape like a drop, which is
running down. The eyes don’t need to be stuffed.

Sew the eyes carefully, trying to get the necessary shape.

Video «How to make a needle sculpting»

Now when the eyes are sewn, we need to do one more needle
sculpting to form the area of the bridge.

You can use the same thread that was left after the needle
sculpting for eyes. Leave one round up from the lower edge of
the eye and pull the thread as close to the eye as possible at
its inner side (near the future nose). Insert the needle, also
leaving 1 round from the lower edge of the eye (we should get
a stitch with the length of 3-4 stitches). Pull the needle from
the point on the other side near the second eye and make one
more stitch with the length of about 3-4 stitches. Insert the
needle symmetrically to the stitch next to the first eye and
pull the thread out from the head bottom.

Push on the eye sockets with enough effort and pull the thread
tails. We need to pull our bridge of the nose so that the width
is about 1.5-1.7 cm (photo in the page side). After this make 1-
2 knots and weave in the thread tail inside of the piece.

At this stage we don’t need to glue the eyes, we will do it at

the end when the ears and the nose are sewn. But you can try
them on the eye whites and see if you like the interim result.
Repeat the needle sculpting if needed to get the necessary
location of the eyes.

After this you can add more fiberfill, if there are folds formed
across the lower part of the head. Push the fiberfill closely to
form the needed shape.
 HEAD DETAILS
Fix the nose between rounds 21 and 25 on the head using pins. Pay attention that half double
crochet stitches should be located on the top and the nose should be facing slightly downwards.
Sew carefully.

Then place the ears between rounds 12-13 and 24, leaving 9-
10 stitches from the eyes. The braid on the last round should
be facing towards you (look at the ears to see which one
should be the right ear and which of them is the left one). The
tips of the ears (and the last rounds) can be slightly bent and
sewn to form the necessary shape. But I did not sew them,
because my ears are slightly curved inwards themselves. Sew
the ears.

Now glue the eyes. Place them closer to the nose in the way
that the lower edge of the eye white is seen (see the photo in
the previous page).

Sew the eyelids. We need to sew the eyelids with the right
side facing inwards. It means that the braid on the last round
should stay on the inner side. To sew the eyelid which should
be sewn on the right side, pull the thread between the stitches
to the edge of the piece. Sew the top part of the eyelid and its
sides, and don’t sew the lower edge.
 ARMS
Crochet in creamy beige color. The arms don’t need to
be stuffed. We will insert the wire after joining them
with the body.

1 round: 6sc in MR (6)

2 round: 6inc (12)
3-6 rounds: 12sc (12) - 4 rounds
7 round: bobble stitch formed of 3 treble crochet
stitches with one top worked into one stitch, 11sc
(12)
8 round: 12sc (12)
9 round: (dec, 1sc)*4 (8)
10-20 rounds: 8sc (8) - 11 rounds

Work 1-2 sc additionally to shift the stitch marker to

the side, just right above the thumb. Now we will form
the elbow.

21 round: 5sc, 2inc, 1sc (10) - increases should be

located exactly in the middle of the outer side on the
arm
22 round: 1sc, dec into front loops of stitches, 2sc,
4hdc, 1sc (9)
23 round: 1sc, inc into the front loop of the stitch,
2sc, 2dec, 1sc (8)
24 round: 8sc (8)
25 round: 3sc, inc (increase should be located exactly
in the middle of the inner side on the arm), 4sc (9) - if
your increase isn’t located at the necessary point
when you follow my instructions, then crochet
additional sc till the middle of the inner side, work as
many stitches as needed, and make the increase.

26-31 rounds: 9sc (9) - 6 rounds

Work 2-3 additional sc to shift the stitch marker, so

that it is located at the same line with the thumb, just
right above it. Cut the thread and fasten off.
 ARMS
Crochet the second arm till round 20 inclusive according
to the same pattern. Then we will crochet mirrored to the
first arm.

Work 1-2 additional sc to shift the stitch marker to the

middle of the inner side on the arm, on the same line with
the thumb, just right above it (photo in the page side).
Now we will form the elbow.

21 round: 1sc, 2inc, 5sc (10) - increases should be located

right in the middle of the outer side on the arm
22 round: 1sc, 4hdc, 2sc, dec into front loops only, 1sc (9)
23 round: 1sc, 2dec, 2sc, inc into front loops only, 1sc (8)

24 round: 8sc (8)

25 round: 6sc, inc (the increase should be located right in the middle of the inner side on the
arm), 1sc (9) - if your increase isn’t located at the necessary point when you follow my
instructions, then crochet additional sc till the middle of the inner side, work as many stitches as
needed, and make the increase, Then work the rest stitches till the end of the round.
26-31 rounds: 9sc (9) - 6 rounds
Work 2-3 additional sc to shift the stitch marker to the same line with the thumb, just right
above it. Cut the thread and fasten off. Put the arms aside. We will join them as we crochet the
body.

LEGS
Crochet in a spiral in creamy beige color. At first we
need to make two feet. Stuff the piece as you go.

At first make three toes. Cut the thread on two of

them. Don’t cut the thread on the third toe, we will
continue crocheting around these three toes then.
This is the pattern for the toe:

1 round: 6sc in MR (6)

2-3 rounds: 6sc (6) - 2 rounds
Cut the thread.
 When you finish the third toe, don’t cut the thread, place
marker. Work 3 more sc on the third toe.

4 round: take the second toe, work 3sc along the second
toe, take the last toe and crochet 6sc around it, then
crochet 3sc along the second toe and then work 3sc along
the first toe till the marker (18)

5-7 rounds: 18sc (18) - 3 rounds

8 round: (dec, 7sc)*2 (16)
9 round: 16sc (16)
10 round: (dec, 6sc)*2 (14)
11-12 rounds: 14sc (14) -2 rounds
Start stuffing.

13 round: (dec, 5sc)*2 (12)

The first The second
leg leg
14 round: 12sc (12)
15 round: 6dec (6)
Stuff till the end. Pull the opening closed through the
front loops of the stitches on the last round. Weave in
the thread tail inside of the piece.

Crochet the second toe according to the same pattern.

Now take two feet in your hands and look at the toes.
One of the toes may appear to be more protruding after
joining - keep it in mind when crocheting the calf, it will
be a big toe. Thereby one of the legs will be the right one
and the other leg will be the left one. If so, then at first we
should make the leg which will be placed on the left (it
will be the right leg for the elf - indicated as “the first leg”)
(then “big toes” will be located near each other).

Now start crocheting the calf on the first leg (see photo).
To start place pins around a circle on the foot. This circle
will be a boundary of a new round. The first pin should be
located, leaving two rounds from the end of the piece.
The second pin - between rounds 9 and 10 (count from
MR). The third and the fourth ones - between rounds 11
and 12 (count from MR), the distance between them
equals 4 stitches.
Attach the thread, leaving two rounds from the end of the
foot, crochet 14 sc across the circle we marked - this will
be round 1. Then crochet in a spiral.

2-4 rounds: 14sc (14) - 3 rounds

5 round: 12sc, dec (13) - decrease in the middle of the
back side
6-10 rounds: 13sc (13) - 5 rounds

Work several shift stitches (additional sc) to shift the

stitch marker to the middle of the back side on the leg.

Now we need to prepare

the wire for the legs.
Measure two pieces of
wire with the length of
about 22cm (I take the
piece which is long
enough to fit the whole
size of the toy). Bend the
wire ends and wrap the
bent ends with a duct
tape or with adhesive
tape.
 Insert the piece of wire into the leg, stuff as you crochet and
continue working according to the pattern.

11 round: 5sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 5sc (pay attention that increases
with 1sc between them should be located exactly in the
middle of the front side - we form the knee) (15)

12 round: dec, 3sc, 5hdc, 3sc, dec (13)

13 round: inc into front loop only, continue into both loops
3sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 3sc, inc into front loop (13)
The first 14 round: 13sc (13)
leg

Don’t forget to stuff the piece as you crochet.

15 round: (4sc, inc)*2, 3sc (15) - increases should be located

exactly in the middle of the leg sides
16-18 rounds: 15sc (15) - 3 rounds
19 round: (5sc, inc)*2, 3sc (17)
20 round: 17sc (17)

For the first leg work about 6sc more, to shift the stitch
marker to the middle of the inner side. Cut the thread, fasten
off.

Crochet the second leg (the left leg for the elf, and it will be
The first
leg located on the right side if the toes are facing towards you -
indicated as “the second leg” in the photo) according to the
same pattern. But add one more round with 17sc (it means
that this leg should be one round longer).
The first The second
leg leg
Why did we add one more round to the right leg (to the
second one)? We do it to make the legs to have equal length,
because one of the edges of the piece is always higher than
the other edge. Finish crocheting the second leg exactly in the
middle of the inner side.

Don’t cut the thread, we will join the legs with each other and
continue crocheting the body.

ATTENTION! The length of your legs will also depend on your

crochet density! You may probably won’t need to add an
additional round to the second leg. Put the legs near each
other to see if you need to fo it or not.
 BODY
Make ch4 and join with the first leg, start crocheting
from the stitch which follows the stitch where we
fastened off the thread on the first leg. Work about
9sc (till the middle of the outer side on the leg), place
marker. Start crocheting the body. The next round will
be counted as the first round of the body:

1 round: 8sc, 4sc along the chain, 17sc, 4sc along the
chain, 9sc (42)
2 round: (4sc, inc)*2, (inc, 4sc)*2, 10sc, 2inc, 10sc (48)
3-7 rounds: 48sc (48) - 5 rounds

Stuff the lower part of the body firmly enough.

Now form the frame for the body. Bend both wire ends we inserted into the legs towards
each other, twist them in the middle of the future body (photo below). Stuff further as you
go.
20 round: (dec, 20sc)*2 (42)
8 round: (22sc, dec)*2 (46) 21 round: 42sc (42)
9-17 rounds: 46sc (46) - 9 rounds 22 round: (dec, 19sc)*2 (40)
18 round: (dec, 21sc)*2 (44)
19 round: 44sc (44)
 BODY
In the next round we will join the arms. For this crochet as
many stitches as needed to shift the stitch marker to the
middle of the back side of the toy (like in the photo in the
page side). I had to crochet 9sc. Place marker. When joining
the arms make sure that the thumb is facing forward.

Put the arms on the body. We will join them in two stages:
in round 23 we join 4 stitches on the inner side of each
arm, and in round 25 join 5 stitches on the outer side of
each arm. The distance between the arms across the front
part of the toy equals 16 stitches (8 stitches till the marker
including the stitch with it and 8 stitches after the marker).
You can insert the wire into the arms at once or after the
arms are already joined.

For the frame of the arms we need to prepare two pieces of

wire with the length of about 15-16 cm. Bend one end of
each wire piece and wrap it with the duct tape or with
adhesive tape.

23 round: 8sc, 4sc through both the body and the inner
side of the arm, 16sc, 4sc through both the body and the
inner side of the arm, 8sc (40)
24 round: 8sc, 5sc along the outer side of the arm, 16sc, 5sc
along the outer side of the arm, 8sc (42)
 BODY
Insert the wire into the arms with the bent end into the
hand, then bend both wire ends towards each other and
twist them around the body frame.

25 round: (dec, 5sc)*6 (36)

26 round: (2sc, dec, 2sc)*6 (30)
27 round: (dec, 3sc)*6 (24)

Don’t forget to stuff the body firmly as you go.

28 round: (1sc, dec, 1sc)*6 (18)
29-32 rounds: 18sc (18) - 4 rounds
Finish crocheting with sl st, cut the thread and fasten off,
leaving a long thread tail for sewing the head.

ASSEMBLY
Cut the excess length of the wire and wrap the ends with
adhesive tape or with a duct tape. Fix the head on the
body and sew it using the thread tail we have left on the
body. Now you can mark four points which should
coincide on the head and on the body when sewing to
attach the head straight.

Thread the needle

and sew, inserting the
needle into both
loops of the last
round and then
inserting it into the
body of the stitch on
the neck.
 PILLOWCASE
I’m sure you remember that Dobby was wearing a pillowcase in
the movie about Harry Potter. Now we are going to make one
for our elf.

We will crochet with the yarn of ivory white color in turning

rows. Start crocheting from the bottom of the pillowcase. For
this make a chain which is long enough. The first row will be
the longest, because both ends of the chain will be straps for
fastening the pillowcase ends in a knot.

Make ch81 and crochet in turning rows from the second ch

from the hook:
1 row: 80sc, don’t make ch, turn (80)
Now the length of my chain equals 25 cm.
2 row: from the second ch from the hook: 15sl st, 46sc, sl st,
leave 17 unworked (short row) (61) - don’t make ch
3 row: skip sl st, crochet from the next stitch 44sc, sl st, turn
(45) - don’t make ch
4 row: from the second stitch from the hook: 44sc, ch, turn
(44)
5-19 rows: 44sc, ch, turn (44) - 15 rows
Now we will crochet the front and the back sides separately.
At first crochet the back side.
20 row: dec, 17sc, ch, turn (18) - short row
21 row: 16sc, dec, ch, turn (17)
22 row: 15sc, dec, ch, turn (16)
23 row: dec, 12sc, dec, make ch17,
24 row: crochet from the second ch from the hook 16sc, then
crochet along the main fabric 14sc.

Cut the thread and fasten off. Turn the piece in the way that
the straps are located on the right side. Crochet the front part.

Count 4 stitches across round 19 and attach the thread to the

fifth stitch counting from the protruding part. Make ch1 and
start crocheting from the next stitch from the hook 20sc, ch,
turn, it means we finish round 20.
 PILLOWCASE
21 row: 20sc, ch, turn (20)
22 row: 18sc, dec, ch, turn (19)
23 row: dec, 15sc, dec, ch, turn (17)
24 row: dec, 15sc (16)

Make ch17 (photo 1) and crochet from the second

Photo 1 ch from the hook:
25 row: 16sc along the chain, then 16sc along the
front side, make ch4, join with the back side: 14sc
along the back side, 2sc along the strap, sl st (53,
including ch)
26 row: skip sl st, crochet from the next stitch
16sc, 4sc along the chain, 16sc, sl st (36)

Cut the thread and fasten off. Weave in the

thread tails on the wrong side of the piece.

Put the pillowcase on the elf. The photo with the

elf wearing the pillowcase is shown below. It
shows how the cut of the pillowcase should look
like.
 The outfit for our elf is
finished! All we need to do
is to make a sock for him and
then we will crochet a diary
of the evil wizard - Tom
Riddle 🌚
 SOCK
Crochet in graphite color (number 182).
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 rounds: 6inc (12)
3-9 rounds: 12sc (12) - 7 rounds

Now we need to form a heel. Make ch1 and turn the work. We
need to crochet several turning rows:

1-2 turning rows: 6sc, ch, turn (6)

3 turning row: 3dec, ch, turn (3)
4 turning row: triple decrease (crochet three sc together) (1)

Now continue crocheting around the main rounds and the

turning rows.

10 round: 3sc along the edge of turning rows, 6sc, 3sc along the
edge of turning rows, 1sc (13)
11 round: 13sc (13)
12 round: 5sc, dec, 6sc (12)
13-25 rounds: 12sc (12) - 13 rounds

Cut the thread and fasten off. Weave in the thread tail inside of
the sock.
Dobby got his long
awaited sock✨
 TOM RIDDLE’S DIARY
The diary consists of three white sheets and a black cover. At
first make sheets.
Use the yarn of white color, make three identical pieces.

1 row: make ch14 and crochet from the second ch from the
hook 13sc, ch, turn (13)
2-16 rows: 13sc, ch, turn (13) - 15 rows

Fasten off the thread nd cut. Make two more pieces.

Now make a cover. It consists of two parts. Crochet in black

color in turning rows. The first piece:

1 row: make ch15, crochet from the second ch from the hook
14sc, ch, turn (14)
2-18 rows: 14sc, ch, turn (14) - 17 rows

When the first piece of the cover is made, don’t cut the thread
and continue crocheting along the piece edge.
19 row: ch, 18sc, ch, turn (18)
20 row: crochet into front loops of stitches 18sc, ch, turn (18)
21 row: into both loops 18sc, ch, turn (18)
22-23 rows: 18sc, ch, turn (18) - 2 rows
Cut the thread and fasten off. Crochet the second part of the
cover.

1 row: make ch15, crochet from the second ch from the hook
14sc, ch, turn (14)
2-18 rows: 14sc, ch, turn (14) - 17 rows
Then continue crocheting along the piece edge.
19 row: ch, 18sc, ch, turn (18)

Cut the thread, leaving a long thread tail for sewing.

Now join two parts of the cover. Sew them, inserting the
needle into both loops of stitches on the second piece and into
back loops of stitches on the first piece.
 TOM RIDDLE’S DIARY
Leave a thread tail, we will use it for sewing the cover and the
white sheets.

Place three white sheets near the cover seam one on another.
Cover them into the black piece, fix and sew through all pieces
making a binding (follow the photos below).
Congratulations! Your elf is finished! We
can see in his eyes how grateful he is for
our gifts ✨
I hope you enjoyed making this elf with me! ☺️I will be very grateful if you
leave me a feedback on Etsy. Each review gets a special coupon for future
purchases. Please tag me @fox_and_dog as the designer of the pattern when
publishing photos of your elves.

And this is my Luna the witch. You may probably like her too✨

The free pattern for the Golden Stitch

can be found in the feed of my
Instagram account.
Just tap on this
icon to find it.
I also want to show you other characters from Harry Potter world made by my
friends:

The patterns for Ronald and Hermione are also can be found in our Etsy
shop:
Pattern for Ronald:: Pattern for Hermione:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1240973620/ https://www.etsy.com/listing/1255098527/

CONTACT ME IN ANY CONVENIENT WAY.

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@fox_and_dog ThreeFriendsPatterns

Olga Krylova Fox_and_dog

Page: Fox&Dog - Crochet World @fox_and_dog

email: [email protected]