10

Formulation

Boosters

and how to use

them
There are some cosmetic ingredients that are trendy and
fanciful and sexy and there are some other that are none of
the above but are just effective and can jazz up the
simplest formulation.

In this file I will share my top 10 favorite non-sexy

but effective ingredients that I use in most of our
formulations no matter how KISS or how
complicated the formulation.

If you are unfamiliar or intimidated by some of them try

using them one at a time and start with a low dosage in a
very KISS formulation.

Stack your active ingredients one by one and after you feel
confident and happy with the stability and performance.

I wish you happy mixing

Elham
 My top 10 formulation
boosters

1 Panthenol 6 alpha-bisabolol

2 Na- lactate 7 Allantoin

3 Na- PCA 8 liq vit C

4 Nicotinamide 9 Prebiulin

5 Squalane 10 Defensil +
 Panthenol

INCI name: Panthenol

CAS # 81-13-0 / 16485-10-2
Water soluble

Panthenol is so common in personal care Function:

that it is not considered sexy and moisturising
fashionable any more but is one of those enhancing skin cell energy
ingredients you do not want to avoid in synthesis of the fatty acids and
any formulation. sphingolipids of the SC and improving
Panthenol is the alcohol form of vitamin the barrier function
B5 and is metabolized to vit B5 which itself Producing cholesterol
is converted to Acetyl Coenzyme-A in the reduction of TEWL
epidermis. This is why it is called ProVit reduction of inflammation
B5 as well. promotes wound healing
reinforcing the nails and reducing
Panthenol is a water soluble ingredient. brittleness
Available in various forms from a powder moisturising hair and prohibiting split
to different aqueous blends with water or ends
hydroglycolic blends with propylene
glycol. The most common form is the 75%
dilution in water which is not preserved.
Application:
This is a water soluble ingredient and is
Shampoo, conditioner, detangler, hair
used in a broad spectrum of personal care
styling, scalp treatment products
products both in rinse-off and leave-on
Baby products
products.
Suncare, after sun products
Cleansers
Shaving and aftershave products
Sources:
Body care
Panthenol is available both in natural and
Foot care
synthetic form.
Hand and nail care
The INCI name for both forms is
Decorative cosmetics
Panthenol. The chemical name for the
Lash enhancement products and
synthetic form is DL-Panthenol and the
mascara
chemical name for the natural form is D-
After depilatory products
Panthenol.

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 Panthenol

How to use:

Stability: Dosage:
Panthenol is a sticky ingredient. In
Panthenol has a relatively high oxidation pharmaceuticals and wound healing and
stability and it is stable in a reasonable pH after-burn products it is sometimes used
range (4-7) for most everyday personal up to 15% but nobody expects a nice skin
care products. At a pH much higher or feel in those products.
much lower than this range it will Use it :
degrade. 0,5-1,0% in leave-on skin care
0,5-1,5% in rinse off products
The natural form racemizes to the 0,5-3,0% in hair care products
synthetic form by exposure to heat and
will reduce its biological activity.
Avoid heating panthenol over 70 C. This
means, in hot process formulations add it
during the cool down.

Sample formulations:

Bakuchiol-Hyaluron multi
active serum

Prebiotic facial cleansing foam

Green tea hair conditioner

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 Na lactate

INCI name: Sodium lactate

CAS # 72-17-3 / 867-56-1
EC # 200-772-0 / 212-762-3
Water soluble clear liquid
Function:
Na lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid. skin conditioning
It is a natural (made by fermentation), increasing the interaction between
colourless, odourless and easy to apply water molecules and the serine
humectants usually available as a 60% residue of the stratum corneum
solution in water. protein
reduction of TEWL
reduction of inflammation
Together with amino acids, pyroglutamic used in treatment of eczema and
acid and urea, lactate and the conjugated atopic dermatitis
mineral ions are part of our NMF (natural non sensitizing
moisturizing factor). The one component no tackiness compared to glycerine &
that keeps the SC (stratum corneum) panthenol
hydrated.

Although lactate is a component of our

NMF its content is higher in healthy and Application:
young skin compared to aged, dry,
Shampoo, conditioner, detangler, hair
compromised or damaged skin.
styling, scalp treatment products
Baby products
Suncare, after sun products
Sources: Cleansers
Despite its name sodium lactate has Shaving and aftershave products
nothing to do with milk. It is fermented Body care
from sugar (corn or beet) and is suitable Foot care
for application in vegan formulations. Hand and nail care
Decorative cosmetics
Deodorants
After depilatory products
Soaps (to make the soap harder)

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 Na lactate

How to use:

Dosage:
In water phase or finished emulsion
0,5-2,5% in the water phase (cold or hot) or
cold or hot
in the finished product
over a broad pH range

Sodium lactate can cause a decrease in

Together with lactic acid it is used to
viscosity and compromise the stability of
buffer cosmetic formulations (actually the
the emulsion (only for some emulsifiers) if
lactic acid/lactate is the buffer system that
it is added before the emulsification. In
controls the pH of our blood system).
that case you can add it to the hot or cold
emulsion after emulsification.
It is stable over a broad pH range. As the
pH decreases it partially converts to lactic
acid.

Sample formulations:

Seboregulative facial cleansing

gel

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 Na-PCA

INCI name: Sodium PCA

CAS # 28874-51-3
EC # 249-277-1
Water soluble clear liquid

Sodium PCA is a natural moisturizer and Function:

humectant and is the sodium salt of PCA skin conditioning
which is present at 12% in our own NMF moisturizer even at low relative
(natural moisturizing factor). humidity
PCA is derived from L-Glutamic acid. reduction of TEWL
Na-PCA has a much superior moisturizing reduction of flyaway and static
efficacy than glycerine and no tackiness electricity and improving wet combing
compared to glycerine and panthenol. non sensitizing

This is an colourless and odourless liquid

with no impact on the scent or the colour
of the product and is available as a 50%
solution.

Application:
Shampoo, conditioner, detangler, hair
Sources:
styling, scalp treatment products
Derived from n-glutamic acid. Suitable for Baby products
vegan formulations Suncare, after sun products
Cleansers
Shaving and aftershave products
Body care
Foot care
Hand and nail care
Decorative cosmetics
After depilatory products

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 Na-PCA

How to use: Dosage:

0,5-5,0% in the water phase (cold or hot)
or in the finished product
In water phase or in finished emulsion
Cold or hot
between a pH 4-8 and then adjust the Sodium PCA can cause a decrease in
pH according to the product concept viscosity and compromise the stability of
and preservative system the emulsion (only for some emulsifiers) if
it is added before the emulsification. In
that case you can add it to the hot or cold
emulsion after emulsification.
Sample formulations:

Prebiotic micellar water

both na lactate and na PCA perform superior moisturizing at

low relative humidity compared to glycerine and panthenol

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 Nicotinamide

INCI name: Niacinamide

CAS#: 98-92-0
EC#: 202-713-4
Water soluble powder
Function:
This is the precursor of vitamin B3 and
called provit B3 as well and is a increasing SC hydration
component of several biologically active reduction of TEWL
enzymes. reduction of inflammation & redness
enhancing keratinocytes
It is one of the hottest ingredients at this differentiation
time both in anti-aging and in sensitive increasing synthesis of ceramides,
skin formulations. FFAs and cholesterol

Nicotinamide is a water soluble powder.

Easily dissolvable in cold water

Application:
Sources: Shampoo, conditioner, scalp
Although it is a biological molecule and treatment products
available in nature, the nicotinamide used Suncare, after sun products
in cosmetics is prepared synthetic. Shaving and aftershave products
Hand & Body care
Acne care
Anti-aging and anti-pollution
products
Sensitive skin products

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 Nicotinamide

How to use:

Dosage:
In water phase or finished emulsion
0,5-5,0% in the water phaseor in the
Do not heat this ingredient over 50 C
finished product.
Measure the pH before adding it and
make sure the pH is between 5,0-7,0.
Adjust the pH after adding Avoid heating
nicotinamide and the preservative
between 4,5-5,5

Sample formulations:

Prebiotic micellar water

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 Squalane

INCI name: Squalane

CAS # 111-01-3
EC # 203-825-6
oil soluble clear liquid
Function:
This is the hydrogenated and more stable
form of squalene whichis a bioactive
refatting
molecule and a precursor of sterol
reduction of TEWL
synthesis.
emollient
non-sensitizing
Sources: improving the oxidation stability of
the formulation
Squalene is available in many seeds and
nuts and related unrefined oils . The two
major commercial sources are shark's
liver and olive oil. Since it is very unstable
and has a short life it is then hydrogenated
to the more stable form which is the Sample formulation
squalane.

Good night lavender foot balm

How to use:

In the oil phase or finished emulsion

Heat and oxidation stable
Stable over a broad pH range

Squalane is an unpolar oil. You can use up

to 100% of the oil phase with squalane but
need to check the requirements of your
emulsifying system

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 alpha-Bisabolol

INCI name: Bisabolol

CAS # 515-69-5 / 23089-26-1
EC # 208-205-9 / 245-423-3
oil soluble clear liquid
Function:
This is a natural sesquiterpenen alcohol
available as a colourless and neutral
soothing
smelling low viscosity liquid.
anti-inflammatory
anti-redness

Sources: Application:
Alpha-bisabolol is usually steam distilled After sun products
from certain plants although synthetic Shaving and aftershave products
versions are available as well Hand & Body care
Acne care
Sensitive skin products
Deodorants
Baby products

How to use:

In the oil phase or finished emulsion

Sample formulation
Do not heat over 30 C Charcoal gel-to-milk cleanser
Use between 0,1-1,0%

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 allantoin

INCI name: Allantoin

CAS # 97-596
EC # 202-592-8
Water soluble white powder
Function:
Allantoin is a derivative of urea with
outstanding biological activity, anti- soothing
inflammatory and wound healing anti-inflammatory
properties. anti-redness
Partially soluble in water. Available as a wound-healing
fine white powder keratolytic
moisturizing and moisture retention
Sources:
Allantoin was originally derived from Application:
comfrey root but all of the allantoin used Suncare and after sun products
in cosmetics is synthetic today Shaving and aftershave products
Hand & Body care
Acne care
Sensitive skin products
Deodorants
Baby products
How to use: Lip care
Decorative cosmetics

max 0,2% in water phase

Sample formulation
stable in a pH range between 4-8
can be heated up to 80 C All in one toner
Although this is a water soluble
ingredient, it can be incorporated into
balms and butters or the oil phase of
the lotion

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 Liquid vit C

INCI name: Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

CAS # 161436-56-2, 183476-82-6
Oil soluble, liquid ester of vitamin C

Vit C is one of the most popular cosmetic Function:

ingredients at the moment. Pure water
soluble vit c is extremely susceptible to antioxidant
oxidation and the cosmetic industry uses barrier protection by prohibiting lipid
vitamin C esters which are more stable peroxidation
than the pure ascorbic acid. skin brightening

Sources:
Ascorbyl palmitate is a completely natural Application:
vit C ester. It is available as a white Suncare and after sun products
powder but is slightly tricky to Anti-aging formulations
incorporate in formulations. Hand & Body care
Acne care
As-TIP is a semi natural vit C ester in
Sensitive skin products
liquid form an easy to use.
Deodorants
Lip care
How to use: Decorative cosmetics

Sample formulation
0,1-0,2% as an antioxidant (to protect
Bakuchiol serum
the product)
0,1-1,0% as an active ingredient
5-20% in high performance serum
avoid oxidizing metals and clay
try to avoid heating for a long time
incorporate in the oil phase or in the
finished emulsion

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 Prebiulin

INCI name: Inulin, Fructose

Water soluble powder

Function:
This is an easily soluble in water white
powder. moisturizing
Inulin is a prebiotic that supports and reducing TEWL
enhances the skin and hair own enhancing skin microbiome
microbiota. reducing pro-inflammatory reactions
A healthy and balanced microbiome self-
regulates a healthy skin, a non-
compromised barrier and the self-
regulation and elimination of harmful
microorganisms Application:
Sources: Suncare and after sun products
Fermentation Shaving and aftershave products
Hand & Body care
Acne care
Sensitive skin products
Deodorants
How to use: Baby products
Hair and scalp care
add to the water phase or to the
Sample formulation
finished emulsion
avoid heating over 60 C for a long time Cold process hemp lotion
add between a pH 4,3-10,0
Dosage: 0,5-5,0%

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 Defensil +

INCI name: Octyldodecanol, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Helianthus

Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Cardiospermum Halicacabum
Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed
Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Oil soluble green liquid Function:
This is a proprietary blend and an easy to
use multi-active anti-inflammatory and anti-inflammatory
barrier protective ingredient soothing
anti redness
barrier protection

Application:
Sources:
Suncare and after sun products
100% plant based and natural
Shaving and aftershave products
Hand & Body care
Acne care
Sensitive skin products
Decorative cosmetics
Baby products
Scalp care
How to use:

add to the oil phase or the finished

Sample formulation
emulsion
avoid heating Shea and baobab cream
add between a pH of 4-8 to avoid
hydrolysis of the oils
add between 1,0-5,0%

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