Dragon
Dragon
Knitables
Dragon
Measurements
Standing teddy measures approximately 38cm (15in), from the soles of feet to the top of the ear
Sitting teddy measures approximately 27cm (10½in), from the base of body to the top of the ear
Arm span measures approximately 32cm (12½in) and the leg length is approximately 16cm (6¼in)
Yarn
The yarns listed may be substituted for any DK yarn. The yarn amounts are approximate.
Body, head, arms, legs, wings, ears, eyelids and nostrils: Yarn A 130g (312m)
Green Dragon: Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 120, Colour Apfel (00173)
Red Dragon: Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 120, Colour Kirsche (00131)
Body, legs, wings, spikes and ears: Yarn B 45g (108m)
Green Dragon: Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 120, Colour Sonne (00120)
Red Dragon: Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 120, Colour Weinrot (00132)
Eyes: Yarn C Debbie Bliss Rialto DK, Colour White (001), 4g (8m)
Eyes and mouth: Yarn D Debbie Bliss Rialto DK, Colour Black (003), oddment of yarn
Pattern Notes
Tension
25sts and 34 rows to 10cm (4in) over st-st on 3.25mm needles.
When knitting toys personal knitting tension is not too much of a concern. However, if your knitting tension is
generally on the looser side then you may want to move down a needle size to prevent the stuffing from
showing through when the teddy is stretched.
Casting on/off
The cable cast on method is recommended. Cast off knit wise unless otherwise stated. When it states cast off
loosely you may wish to cast off using a larger needle, for example a size 4½ or 5mm.
Casting off requires the use of an additional stitch. For example, if the pattern states cast off 10 sts, you will
need to use 11 sts to do so. So please bear this in mind when counting stitches.
Making up
To create a neat, invisible seam when joining pieces use a mattress stitch, with right side of work uppermost.
When casting on leave a length of yarn that could be used to sew up the seam if required.
Abbreviations
K Knit
P Purl
st(s) Stitch(es)
beg Beginning
tog Together
m1 Make one stitch by picking up the horizontal loop before next stitch and knitting into the
back of it
Inc 1 Increase one by knitting into the front and back of the stitch
K2 tog Knit two stitches together
SSK Slip, slip, knit (Decrease - slip the next stitch on the left needle knitwise, then slip the next
stitch on the left needle purlwise. Take the left needle and knit through the front of the
two slipped stitches on the right needle)
P2 tog Purl two stitches together
SSP Slip, slip, purl (Decrease - slip the next two stitches knitwise, one at a time, to right hand
needle. Move these two stitches back to the left hand needle. Insert the right needle into
these two stitches through their back loops and purl these two slipped stitches together)
sl1 Slip 1 stitch (stitch is passed from the left needle to the right needle without being knitted,
slip purl-wise)
psso Pass slip stitch over (pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the needle)
st-st Stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl)
g-st Garter stitch (every row knit)
moss Moss stitch (K1, P1)
rib Ribbing (vertical columns of knit and purl stitches, side by side, as in K1, P1)
yrn Yarn round needle (take strand of yarn under and over tip of right hand needle to make a
stitch, then continue as given in instructions)
yb Yarn back (take yarn to the back before working the next stitch)
yf Yarn forward (bring yarn to the front before working the next stitch)
B&T Break yarn, leaving a long end. Thread through remaining stitches on needle, draw up
tightly and secure by threading yarn a second time through sts
Tutorials
For tips and advice on the various stitches and techniques used in this pattern, please refer to the video
tutorials on www.knitables.com
Toy Safety
This adorable dragon is sure to become a much loved, child’s toy, so please ensure that attached pieces are
sewn on very securely and seams are tightly finished off. Use only new, hygienic, washable toy stuffing.
Copyright © 2020 Sarah Gasson
www.knitables.com
4
Dragon
Body
Before you begin make one small ball of yarn A from the same original ball
Begin at neck edge and with yarn A cast on 24 sts
Row 1 K4, (Inc 1) 15 times, K5 (39 sts)
Row 2 In yarn A P16, in yarn B P7, join second ball of yarn A P16
By using a second ball of yarn you will not need to carry the yarn across the back of the chest, which gives a
neater finish!
Row 3 In A (K2, m1, K2) 4 times, in B P1, K1, m1, K1, P1, K1, m1, K1, P1, in A (K2, m1, K2) 4 times (49 sts)
Row 4 In A P20, in B P9, in A P20
Row 5 In A K20, in B (K1, P1) 4 times, K1, in A K20
Row 6 In A P20, in B P9, in A P20
Row 7 In A K20, in B P1, K1, m1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, m1, K1, P1, in A K20 (51 sts)
Row 8 In A P20, in B P11, in A P20
Row 9 In A K20, in B (K1, P1) 5 times, K1, in A K20
Row 10 In A P20, in B P11, in A P20
Row 11 In A K20, in B (P1, K1) 5 times, P1, in A K20
Row 12 In A P20, in B P11, in A P20
Row 13 In A K13, (m1, K1) 3 times, K4, in B (K1, P1) 5 times, K1, in A K4, (K1, m1) 3 times, K13 (57 sts)
To make the body curve into the tail, the pattern uses ‘short rows’. The following wraps and turns prevent holes
forming at the ends of the short rows.
Row 14 In A P23, in B P11, in A P15, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
Row 15 In A K15, in B P1, K1, m1, (K1, P1) 3 times, K1, m1, K1, P1, in A K15, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back
to LH, yb, turn (59 sts)
Row 16 In A P15, in B P13, in A P1, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
Row 17 In A K1, in B (K1, P1) 6 times, K1, in A K1, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
To hide the ‘bars’ that are made when the stitches are wrapped, knit the bar and the wrapped stitch together
on a knit row and purl the bar and the wrapped stitch together on a purl row.
Row 18 In A P1, in B P13, in A P23
Row 19 In A K23, in B (P1, K1) 6 times, K1, in A K23
Row 20 In A P23, in B P13, in A P23
Row 21 In A K23, in B (K1, P1) 6 times, K1, in A K23
Row 22 In A P23, in B P13, in A P15, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
Row 23 In A K15, in B P1, K1, m1, (K1, P1) 4 times, K1, m1, K1, P1, in A K15, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back
to LH, yb, turn (61 sts)
Row 24 In A P15, in B P15, in A P1, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
Row 25 In A K1, in B (K1, P1) 7 times, K1, in A K1, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
Row 26 In A P1, in B P15, in A P23
Row 27 In A K5, m1, K15, m1, K3, in B (P1, K1) 7 times, P1, in A K3, m1, K15, m1, K5 (65 sts)
Row 67 K21, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
Row 68 P16, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
Row 69 K11, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
Row 70 P41, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
Rows 71 - 84 Repeat rows 57 to 70
Rows 85 - 86 Beg with a Knit row, st-st 2 rows
Row 87 K1, (K7, SSK, K8) 2 times, K1, (K8, K2tog, K7) 2 times, K1 (67 sts)
Row 88 - 90 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 91 K1, (K7, SSK, K7) 2 times, K1, (K7, K2tog, K7) 2 times, K1 (63 sts)
Row 92 - 94 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 95 K1, (K6, SSK, K7) 2 times, K1, (K7, K2tog, K6) 2 times, K1 (59 sts)
Row 96 - 98 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 99 K1, (K6, SSK, K6) 2 times, K1, (K6, K2tog, K6) 2 times, K1 (55 sts)
Row 100 - 102 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 103 K1, (K5, SSK, K6) 2 times, K1, (K6, K2tog, K5) 2 times, K1 (51 sts)
Row 104 - 106 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 107 K1, (K5, SSK, K5) 2 times, K1, (K5, K2tog, K5) 2 times, K1 (47 sts)
Row 108 - 110 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 111 K1, (K4, SSK, K5) 2 times, K1, (K5, K2tog, K4) 2 times, K1 (43 sts)
Row 112 - 114 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 115 K1, (K4, SSK, K4) 2 times, K1, (K4, K2tog, K4) 2 times, K1 (39 sts)
Row 116 - 118 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 119 K1, (K3, SSK, K4) 2 times, K1, (K4, K2tog, K3) 2 times, K1 (35 sts)
Row 120 - 122 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 123 K1, (K3, SSK, K3) 2 times, K1, (K3, K2tog, K3) 2 times, K1 (31 sts)
Row 124 - 126 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 127 K1, (K2, SSK, K3) 2 times, K1, (K3, K2tog, K2) 2 times, K1 (27 sts)
Row 128 - 130 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 131 K1, (K2, SSK, K2) 2 times, K1, (K2, K2tog, K2) 2 times, K1 (23 sts)
Row 132 - 134 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 135 K1, (K1, SSK, K2) 2 times, K1, (K2, K2tog, K1) 2 times, K1 (19 sts)
Row 136 - 138 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 139 K1, (K1, SSK, K1) 2 times, K1, (K1, K2tog, K1) 2 times, K1 (15 sts)
Row 140 - 142 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 143 K1, (SSK, K1) 2 times, K1, (K1, K2tog) 2 times, K1 (11 sts)
Row 144 - 146 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 147 K1, (SSK) 2 times, K1, (K2tog) 2 times, K1 (7 sts) B&T
Working up from the gathered tail, join the side edges of the body using mattress stitch, leaving the cast on
edge open. This seam will be at the centre back of the body. Stuff the body firmly, turning and moulding as you
work. The body should measure approximately 32cm (12½in) around at the ‘waist’.
Copyright © 2020 Sarah Gasson
www.knitables.com
7
Head
Before you begin make two small balls of yarn A and one small ball of yarn C from the same original balls.
Begin at end of nose and with yarn A cast on 9 sts
Row 1 (Inc 1) 8 times, K1 (17 sts)
Row 2 Second and every following alternate row: Purl, unless otherwise stated
Row 3 (K1, m1) 15 times, K2 (32 sts)
Row 5 (K2, m1) 15 times, K2 (47 sts)
Row 7 K1, (K3, m1) 14 times, K4 (61 sts)
Row 9 K5, (m1, K7) 3 times, m1, K9, m1, (K7, m1) 3 times, K5 (69 sts)
Row 11 K18, m1, K33, m1, K18 (71 sts)
Rows 12 - 22 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 11 rows
Row 23 K28, (K2tog) 2 times, K1, K2tog, K1, SSK, K1, (SSK) 2 times, K28 (65 sts)
Row 24 In A P26, join first ball of yarn C SSP, P2, join second ball of yarn A P5, join second ball of yarn C P2,
P2tog, join third ball of yarn A P26 (63 sts)
Row 25 In A K24, K2tog, in C K2, m1, K1, in A K5, in C K1, m1, K2, in A SSK, K24
Row 26 In A P22, SSP, P1, in C P4, in A P5, in C P4, in A P1, P2tog, P22 (61 sts)
Row 27 In A K9, (K1, K2tog) 4 times, K3, in C K1, m1, K2, m1, K1, in A K5, in C K1, m1, K2, m1, K1, in A K3,
(SSK, K1) 4 times, K9 (57 sts)
Row 28 In A P20, in C P6, in A P5, in C P6, in A P20
Row 29 In A K20, in C K2, m1, K2, m1, K2, in A K5, in C K2, m1, K2, m1, K2, in A K20 (61 sts)
Row 30 In A P20, in C P8, in A P5, in C P8, in A P20
Row 31 In A K19, m1, K1, in C K5, m1, K3, in A K1, m1, K3, m1, K1, in C K3, m1, K5, in A K1, m1, K19 (67 sts)
Row 32 In A P21, in C P1, SSP, P3, P2tog, P1, in A P7, in C P1, SSP, P3, P2tog, P1, in A P21 (63 sts)
Row 33 In A K18, m1, K2, m1, K1, in C K7, in A K1, m1, K5, m1, K1, in C K7, in A K1, m1, K2, m1, K18 (69 sts)
Row 34 In A P23, in C P7, in A P9, in C P7, in A P23
Row 35 Continue in yarn A K20, m1, K2, m1, K1, SSK, K3, K2tog, K1, m1, K7, m1, K1, SSK, K3, K2tog, K1, m1, K2,
m1, K20 (71 sts)
Row 36 Purl
Row 37 K22, m1, K2, m1, K3, m1, K2, m1, K2, m1, K9, m1, K2, m1, K2, m1, K3, m1, K2, m1, K22 (81 sts)
Rows 38 - 52 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 15 rows
Row 53 K1, (K4, K2tog, K4) 8 times (73 sts)
Row 54 Next and every following alternate row: Purl
Row 55 K1, (K3, K2tog, K4) 8 times (65 sts)
Row 57 K1, (K3, K2tog, K3) 8 times (57 sts)
Row 59 K1, (K2, K2tog, K3) 8 times (49 sts)
Row 61 K1, (K2, K2tog, K2) 8 times (41 sts)
Row 63 K1, (K1, K2tog, K2) 8 times (33 sts)
Row 65 K1, (K1, K2tog, K1) 8 times (25 sts)
Row 67 K1, (K2tog, K1) 8 times (17 sts)
Row 69 K1, (K2tog) 8 times (9 sts) B&T
Copyright © 2020 Sarah Gasson
www.knitables.com
8
Work a gathering thread through the cast on stitches at the mouth, pull up tightly and join the seam from the
mouth to the chin. Then working down from the gathered back of head, join the seam, leaving an opening of
approximately 2.5cm at the base of the head. Fill the head with small amounts of stuffing at a time, taking care
to push the stuffing well into the nose to shape it. The head should be firm to the touch but avoid
overstretching the stitches.
Begin at the top of the eyelid and with yarn A cast on 32 sts
Row 1 Knit
Row 2 P1, (P2tog) 15 times, P1 (17 sts)
Row 3 Knit
Row 4 P1, (P2tog) 7 times, P2 (10 sts) B&T
Begin at the top of the nostril and with yarn A cast on 18 sts
Row 1 (K2tog) 9 times (9 sts) B&T
Fold the piece in half and working up from the gathered centre join the side and then the top edges. Curve the
piece into a nostril shape and position and sew on the nostrils onto the dragon’s nose as illustrated above.
Begin at the base of the ear and with yarn A cast on 9 sts
Row 1 (Inc 1) 8 times, K1 (17 sts)
Rows 2 - 4 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 5 K1, K2tog, K11, SSK, K1 (15 sts)
Row 6 Purl
Row 7 K1, K2tog, K9, SSK, K1 (13 sts)
Rows 8 - 9 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 2 rows
Row 10 P1, SSP, P7, P2tog, P1 (11 sts)
Row 11 K1, K2tog, K5, SSK, K1 (9 sts)
Row 12 P1, SSP, P2, yb, sl1 to RH, yf, turn, sl1 to RH, K1, yf, sl1 to RH, yb, turn, sl1 to RH, P2, P2tog, P1 (7 sts)
To hide the ‘bars’ that are made when the stitches are wrapped, knit the bar and the wrapped stitch together.
Row 13 Change to yarn B, SSK, K3, K2tog (5 sts)
Row 14 Next and every following alternate row: Purl
Row 15 (K1, m1) 4 times, K1 (9 sts)
Row 17 K1, m1, K7, m1, K1 (11 sts)
Row 19 K1, m1, K9, m1, K1 (13 sts)
Rows 20 - 21 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 2 rows
Row 22 P3, P2tog, P3, SSP, P3 (11 sts)
Row 23 K1, SSK, K5, K2tog, K1 (9 sts)
Row 24 P2, P2tog, P1, SSP, P2 (7 sts)
Row 25 SSK, K1, K2tog, K2tog (3 sts) B&T
With the right side of the st-st outside, fold the ears in half and oversew the side edges together. Gently curve
the ears inwards and sew the ears onto the head securely (the ears are positioned approximately 11cm apart).
Lastly embroider a smile. So that the mouth is quite flat and not too protruding, I would recommend using half
the thickness of yarn. Yarn is generally made up of individual strands, so take a length of yarn D and split the
yarn in half. Then embroider a mouth, placing the centre of the smile on the gathered cast on stitches of the
head. Close the opening at the base of the head. Position the head onto the neck opening and sew in place.
Right Leg
* Row 11 Claws P26, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
K2, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
P2, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
K1, m1, K1, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
P3, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
K3, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
P8, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
K2, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
P2, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
K1, m1, K1, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
P3, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
K3, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
P8, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
K2, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
P2, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
K1, m1, K1, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
P3, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
K3, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
P12 (48 sts)
Rows 12 - 19 Beg with a Knit row, st-st 8 rows
Row 20 K6, (K2tog) 10 times, K22 (38 sts)
Row 21 P4, (P2tog) 4 times, P26 (34 sts)
Row 22 K4, (K2tog) 7 times, K16 (27 sts)
Rows 23 - 35 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 13 rows
Row 36 K7, m1, K13, m1, K7 (29 sts)
Rows 37 - 43 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 7 rows
Row 44 K14, m1, K15 (30 sts)
Rows 45 - 51 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 7 rows
Row 52 Cast off 2 sts, Knit to last 2 sts,
slip these 2 sts purl wise (28 sts)
Row 53 Bring yarn to front of row, cast off 2 sts purl wise, Purl to end of row (26 sts)
Row 54 K2tog, K22, SSK (24 sts)
Row 55 Next and every following alternate row: Purl, unless otherwise stated
Row 56 K2tog, K20, SSK (22 sts)
Row 58 K2tog, K18, SSK (20 sts)
Row 60 K2tog, K16, SSK (18 sts)
Row 61 SSP, P14, P2tog (16 sts)
Row 62 K2tog, K12, SSK (14 sts)
Row 63 SSP, P10, P2tog (12 sts)
Row 64 (K2tog) 3 times, (SSK) 3 times (6 sts) B&T
Left Leg
Using the yarn tail end work a gathering thread through the cast on stitches at the sole of the foot, pull up
tightly and join the seam from the sole of the foot to just beyond the ankle, using the appropriate coloured
yarn. Stuff the foot and ankle firmly, shaping as you go. Then join the rest of the seam, leaving the top shaped
edges open. Fill the rest of the leg, thinning the stuffing slightly at the top of the leg to enable sitting. Place the
base of the body on a flat surface, position the legs against the sides of the body and pin in place. Check that
the teddy sits properly and adjust legs if necessary. There should be about 6 stitches between the legs at the
front of the body. Sew legs in place, as pinned, pushing a little more stuffing in the tops of the legs if necessary,
before completely sewing.
Right Arm
Left Arm
K4, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
P4, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
K4, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
P1, P2tog, P1, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
K3, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
sl1, SSP, psso, sl1 to RH, yb, slip the st on RH back to LH, yf, turn
K1, sl1 to RH, yf, slip the st on RH back to LH, yb, turn
Purl to end of row (23 sts)
Then continue as given for the right arm from Row 47 to the end
Working up from the gathered hand, join the side edges of the arm, leaving the top shaped edges open. Stuff
the arm, turning and moulding as you work. Pin the arms to the sides of the body. Attach the arms to the body
by slipstitching around the edges, pushing a little more stuffing in the tops of the arms if necessary.
The spikes are knitted as one long strip encompassing 13 spikes in total.
Begin at the base and with yarn B cast on 117 sts
Row 1 Knit
Rows 2 - 4 Purl 3 rows
Row 5 (K1, m1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, m1, K1) (11 sts)
Row 6 Next and every following alternate row: Purl
Row 7 K1, K2tog, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, SSK, K1 (9 sts)
Row 9 K1, K2tog, P1, K1, P1, SSK, K1 (7 sts)
Row 11 K1, K2tog, P1, SSK, K1 (5 sts)
Row 13 SSK, K1, K2tog (3 sts)
Row 14 sl1, P2tog, psso (1 sts) B&T
Row 15 - 134 Re-join yarn B and repeat rows 5 to 14,
12 more times to make 13 ‘spikes’ altogether
Weave in all the yarn ends. With the right sides on the outside,
place one piece on top of the other and firstly sew the top,
‘spikey’ edges together. Then sew the bottom cast on edges
together, adding a very small amount of stuffing to shape the
spikes as you sew. Pin the spikes in position, with 5 spikes on the
head and 8 along the body and tail. The strip of spikes may seem
too long to fit at first but it does seem to work out in the end!
Weave in all the yarn ends. With the right side of the st-st outside, fold the wings in half and sew the edges
together. Position and sew the wings onto the body.