Roder Pump Rebuild

Vactor Rodder Pump Rebuild Guide
Maintenance
NOTICE
Follow recommended safety practices
while performing all work. Refer to the
Vactor/Guzzler Safety Manual for additional
information.
This manual is available at: www.vactor.com
Effective Date February 17, 2011 1 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Contents Maintenance
Getting Started. ...................................................................................................3
Remove the Pump...................................................................................................4
Compensator Block...............................................................................................5
Truss Rods............................................................................................................8
Oil End Block......................................................................................................10
Water End Block. ............................................................................................... 11
Sensing Rod.........................................................................................................12
End Block Inspection..........................................................................................13
Remove Barrels. .................................................................................................14
Pistons.................................................................................................................18
Center Block.......................................................................................................24
Center Block.......................................................................................................25
Center Block Seal..............................................................................................26
• • • • • • • • • • • Reassembly • • • • • • • • • • • .....................................................27
Center Block.......................................................................................................27
Center Block.......................................................................................................28
Center Block.......................................................................................................29
Shaft....................................................................................................................30
Piston Heads. ......................................................................................................34
Shaft Piston End Seals......................................................................................38
Attach Piston Heads...........................................................................................40
Prepare to Attach Barrels.................................................................................51
Attach Barrels....................................................................................................53
Sensing Rod & Yoke............................................................................................58
Attach End Blocks..............................................................................................60
Attach Truss Rods..............................................................................................66
Attach Detent Block...........................................................................................70
Attach Compensator Block. ...............................................................................73
Install Check Valves...........................................................................................74
Install Check Manifolds. ....................................................................................75
Finishing Up. ........................................................................................................76

Getting Started Maintenance
A. 53592-30 seal compressor

Tools needed to rebuild the rodder pump
B. 55670-30 piston rod guide
C. 55689-30 spanner wrench
D. 86716-30 barrel remover tool
D
E. 86721-30 barrel pusher tool
All of these tools and a detailed
explanation of each can be found
E in the Vactor / Guzzler Parts and
Accessories catalog.

Remove the Pump Maintenance
Remove the bumper and hydraulic

connections.
Remember, your going to loose
hydraulic oil once you disconnect the
hydraulic lines.
Remove the pump from the Vactor.

Place on a good work bench or table.
Unbolt the high and low pressure
manifold blocks. Note the direction of
the check valves. They are different.
Remove the hydraulic hose from the

end of the pump and the detent block.

Compensator Block Maintenance
Remove the compensator block from

the detent block. Remove the detent
block and sensor.
Install an old style detent block to

support the sensing rod shaft and
piston.
Remove the locking pin from the

sensing rod and piston.

Be careful not to lose the roll pin as you

may have to reuse it.
Hold the sensing rod with a screw driver

as shown and screw the piston off of the
shaft.
You may have to clean up the threads in

order to unscrew the piston.

Remove the piston.
Once the piston has been removed

remove the detent block.
Remember to keep the old style

detent block handy. You will need it to
reassemble the pump.

Truss Rods Maintenance
Cover the check valve holes to prevent

anything from getting into the pump and
creating any more damage.
Remove the truss rod nuts from the

water end of the pump.
Always remove the water end first.
It does not matter what order you

remove the nuts.

Truss Rods Maintenance
Remove the nut plates once the nuts

have been removed. Set the nut plates
aside as they can be reused.
Be sure to clean the nut plates of any

dirt, grease or grime before reusing
them.
Remove the truss rods from the oil end.

Don’t worry about having to remove the
nuts from the oil end.

Oil End Block Maintenance
Loosen the oil end block from the end of

the pump before removing all of the truss
rods. Be aware of the oil leakage once
the end block seal is broken.
Allow the oil to drain from the oil side

barrel.
Inspect the check valve O-ring groove

in the center block and the water end
block. The o-ring groove may need to be
remachined if corrosion has eaten into the
groove surface.

Water End Block Maintenance
Remove the water end block and inspect

the o-ring groove surface. Remachine
any end block where corrosion has eaten
into the o-ring surface.
Remove the oil end block. Be careful not

to damage the sensing rod. The seal in
the end block will need to be replaced
after the pump is reassembled.
Remove the sensing rod yoke.
This can also be done using a standard

wrench.

Sensing Rod Maintenance
Inspect the sensing rod yoke for wear.

Replace any sensing rod yoke that
shows wear in the center hole for the
sensing rod.
Only the yoke on the right should

be considered for reuse. The middle
one and the one on the left should be
replaced. Failure to replace a worn or
damaged yoke can cause damage to
the sensing rod.
Check the sensing rod for any damage.

Replace any damaged sensing rod.

End Block Inspection Maintenance
Carefully inspect the end block.

Some corrosion is normal. The key is to
insure there is no damage to the O-ring
groove.
Also inspect the check valve o-ring

groove for any damage.
Remachine any end block that shows
corrosion into the o-ring surface.
Shown is a special tool part number

86716-30 barrel remover tool. This tool
clamps onto the barrel and is used to
pull the barrel over the seals.

Remove Barrels Maintenance
Clamp the barrel remover to the barrel
Remove the barrel. Note: there will

usually be oil inside the oil barrel when
the barrel seal is broken.

Pull the barrel all the way off or over

the piston.
Get ready to support the barrel as it

comes over the piston.
Support the barrel once it is over the

piston and seals.

Inspect the piston and barrel for any

damage. Replace any damaged barrel
or piston.
Repeat the procedure for the water

barrel.
Get ready to support the barrel as it

comes over the piston.

Support the barrel as it clears the

piston and seals.
Inspect the water barrel and piston for

any damage. Replace any damaged
barrel or piston.
Be sure to identify any oil barrel or

water barrel that is to be reused.
They are different and cannot be
interchanged.

Pistons Maintenance
Inspect the truss rods. Replace any

damaged truss rod.
Remove the locking screw from the

piston and shaft.
Remove the locking screw from the

other end.
Note: do not mix up the locking
set screws. The water end is
stainless steel. The oil end is
regular steel.

Pistons Maintenance
Check the o-ring groove on the center

block. Replace or remachine any center
block that has a damaged or corroded
o-ring groove.
Using the special spanner wrench part

number 55689 to remove the water
piston from the shaft.
You may need to use a hammer or
mallet to loosen the piston.
Hold the spanner wrench securely while

someone hits the end of the spanner
wrench.
Keep hands and
! CAUTION fingers away from
the end of the
spanner wrench that
is to be hit.

Pistons Maintenance
Do the same thing on the other or oil

end.
Inspect the drain plug hole in the center

block for wear or corrosion. Repair any
damaged drain plug hole.
Note: This may be an opportune time
to replace the drain plug with a
remote drain system when the
reassembly is complete. See the
Retrofit Manual for the remote
drain (ball valve drain) system.
Remove the old seal(s) from the

piston(s). It’s easier to do this with the
piston still on the shaft as shown.

Pistons Maintenance
Use a screw driver or punch to get

under the seal and raise it where it can
be cut with a knife or side cutters as
shown.
Do the same with the other seal(s).
Now remove the piston from the shaft.

Pistons Maintenance
Support the piston as it comes off of

the shaft.
Carefully inspect the shaft for any

damage. Note: the multiple locking set
screw holes in the shaft. This indicates
this pump has been rebuilt at least
twice.
You may have to press or push the

shaft through the center block. In
this case we installed a lifting eye to
protect the threads.

Pistons Maintenance
Remove the shaft from the center block.

Note that is a leather mallet being used
not a sledge hammer. Be careful not to
damage the threads.
Support the shaft during the removal

process.
Remove the seal keeper from the

center block. There is one on each side.
Do not throw the bolts and washers
away. They are stainless steel and can
be reused. If new bolts and washers
are required, make sure they are
stainless steel.

Center Block Maintenance
Note the corrosion on the seal keeper.

This is not uncommon.
Also inspect the o-ring groove for

any damage or corrison. Be sure to
remachine any o-ring groove that is
damaged. Failure to do so can cause
the o-ring to leak when reassembled.
Inspect the o-ring groove on both sides

of the center block.
Check the seal keeper for any damage.

The seal and keeper are knocked out

using a punch or screw driver from the
opposite side of the center block.
Do the same thing to the other seal and
keeper. Inspect the seal surface in the
center block.
Check to make sure there is no groove

in the center block caused by the old
seal. If there is any kind of a groove the
center block should be sleeved.
Sleeving can be done at the factory
or any good machine shop. Failure to
sleeve the center block to remove any
groove can cause the new seal to leak
when the pump is reassembled. If after
assembly, water or oil leaks out of the
weep hole in the center block it is a
good indication the center block should
have been sleeved.

Center Block Seal Maintenance
Be sure to clean up the seal keeper

prior to assembly.
Replace any seal keeper that shows
excessive corrosion or damage.
Inspect the seal area. The seal area

must be smooth. Don’t try to sand
out any grooves. If there are grooves
machine them out and sleeve the
center block. This can be done at
Vactor if you don’t have a local facility.
Remember if it leaks out of the weep
hole, it should have been sleeved.

• • • • • • • • • • • Reassembly • • • • • • • • • • •

Use all new seals and replace any

component that is damaged or worn.
It will save you having to rebuild the
pump prematurely.
Start with the center block.
New seals and maybe new keepers.

Remember the keepers are held in
place with stainless steel bolts and
lock washers. Don’t use standard or
non stainless steel bolts and washers.
They can rust away eventually causing
damage to the pump.

Double check the sealing surface.

Remachine or sleeve any center
block that shows wear. It will save you
problems later on.
Use a wooden block or hammer

handle to tap the seal into position.
Wood is less likely to damage the
center block or seal. Pay close
attention to which way your putting it
in. The lip or o-ring side of the seal
faces outward or toward you.
Tap the seal keeper into position.

Line the bolt holes up.

Use Loctite medium strength or

equivalent on each bolt to prevent it from
accidentally backing out once the pump
is assembled.
Insert the stainless steel bolts, lock

washers and draw up snuggly.
Remember these are 1/4 inch bolts so
don’t over torque.
NOTE: Bolts and lock washers must be
stainless steel. Do Not substitute.
Do the same thing to the other side of

the center block.

Shaft Maintenance
Next, clean and lubricate the pump

shaft, making sure the threads on both
ends are clean and well lubricated.
Clean the threads on the oil end for the

yoke.
Clean the threads for the piston.

Shaft Maintenance
Install the thread protector or bullet tool

part number 55670-30 on the water, or
solid, end of the shaft.
Now your almost ready to install the

pump shaft.
If you have a overhead crane available,

install the lifting eye on the oil end of the
piston as shown.

Shaft Maintenance
Make sure the shaft is clean and there

are no scratches or burrs on the shaft.
You don’t want to damage the new seals.
Lubricate the shaft with hydraulic oil. It

will go through the seals easier.
Lower the shaft into the center block.

Make sure you are inserting the shaft
from the oil side of the center block and
the taper side or bullet covered end is
down. The oil side is the side away from
the large check valve hole.

Shaft Maintenance
Once the shaft is through the seals

in the center block, remove the lifting
eyelet.
Turn the center block upright and push

the shaft completely through the center
block seals.
Double check the seals.

Piston Heads Maintenance
on both sides.
Install new seals on the pistons.

Make sure the o-ring side of the seal is
to the outside.
Clamp the piston to the work bench or

put it in a vise. It makes it easier to pry
the seal over the piston and into the
seal groove.

Pry the seal into position.
Tap the seal all the way around to make

sure it is properly seated in the seal
groove.
Turn the piston over and install the

other seal. Remember the o-ring side
goes to the outside.

Pry the seal into position.
Make sure it is seated properly in

the seal groove.
Start over with the other piston.
Make sure the o-ring is to the

outside.

Turn it over and install the other seal.
Use Lubriplate 630-AA or an equivalent

to lubricate the shaft threads.
Lubricate the threads on the shaft.
Put some grease on the o-ring groove

on the shaft. It will help hold the seal in
place while installing the piston.

Shaft Piston End Seals Maintenance
Do the same to the other end of the

shaft.
Install the o-ring on the shaft.
Make sure the o-ring is properly seated

in the groove.

Shaft Piston End Seals Maintenance
Do the same to the other end of the

shaft.
Make sure the o-ring is properly seated

in the groove.
Install the piston on the shaft. Be aware

of which is the oil end and which is the
water end. You don’t want to mix them
up. The oil piston is steel and the water
piston is bronze. The side of the piston
with the two (2) holes in it goes to the
outside. In this case we are starting with
the oil side piston.

Attach Piston Heads Maintenance
Screw it on as far as it will go.
Make sure it is all the way on the

shaft.
Now do the same with the water

piston.

Screw it on all the way.
Be sure it is all the way on the shaft.
Install the spanner wrench part number

55689-30 into the two holes on the
piston

Do the same with the spanner wrench

on the other piston.
Hit the spanner wrench a dead blow

with a hammer to ensure the piston is
tight on the shaft. There is no set torque
on the piston to the shaft. It is simply
as tight as it can get. The piston will
be locked to the shaft with a set screw
later.
Make sure each piston is flush with the

end of the shaft. If the shaft is not flush
with the end of the piston damage to
the shaft can occur once the pump is
fully assembled.

This shows a properly positioned piston

on the shaft. Notice how the shaft and
piston are flush.
Drill a new set screw hole. DO NOT try

to reuse the old set screw hole. If the
piston is properly installed on the shaft
the old hole will not line up properly due
to the threads stretching. Start with a
small diameter drill. Suggest using a 1/8
drill to start.
Then use a letter I drill to enlarge the

hole. The letter I drill is the proper size
for a 5/16 set screw.

Tap the hole using a 5/16 - 24 NF tap.

Be sure to lubricate the tap to prevent it
sticking.
The threads must be at least 1/2 inch

deep for the set screw to be properly
seated.
Use Loctite medium strength thread

blocker or equivalent on the set screw
before installing it.
NOTE: The set screws are different
between the oil end and the
water end. The water end must
have a stainless steel set screw.
The oil end does not require a
stainless steel set screw. Failure
to use a stainless steel set screw
on the water end can cause the
set screw to rust away causing
damage to the piston, shaft and
pump.

Install the set screw.
Make sure the set screw is below the

surface of the piston and shaft.
Now dimple the piston over the set

screw. This prevents the set screw from
backing out accidentally.

Do the same to the other piston.

Start with the 1/8 diameter drill.
Be sure the hole is over 1/2 inch

deep.
Now use the letter I drill to enlarge the

hole to the proper size.

Tap the hole using a 5/16 - 24 NF tap.
Make sure the threads are over 1/2

inch deep.
Be sure to clean out the set screw

hole after tapping the threads. Any
pieces of metal left in the hole can
get caught in the threads between
the piston and the shaft causing the
piston to lock to the shaft making
disassembly difficult.

Use Loctite medium strength thread

blocker or equivalent on the set screw
before installing it.
Install the set screw. Remember the set

screws are different. Do not mix them
up. Stainless steel on the water end and
regular steel on the oil end.
Be sure the set screw is below the

surface of the piston and shaft.

This shows a piston of a pump that has

been rebuilt 3 times. Note that 3 of the
holes don’t line up properly.
The arrow shows the set screw installed
properly below the surface of the piston
and shaft.
Dimple the edge of the piston over the

set screw with a center punch to hold it
in place. Failure to lock the set screw in
place can allow it to back out causing
damage to the pump.
This shows the set screw having been

properly dimpled to prevent it from
backing out.

Now we are ready to install the

barrels.
Make sure both sides are properly

dimpled.
Now were ready to start installing

the barrels. Note the steel block in
place preventing any movement of
the pump during the barrel installation
procedure.

Prepare to Attach Barrels Maintenance
Lubricate the o-ring groove on the center

block. This will help hold the o-ring in
position during the barrel installation.
Install the o-ring part # 29663.
Lubricate the seals with hydraulic oil.

This will ease the installation of the
barrel.

Prepare to Attach Barrels Maintenance
Install the seal compressor part number

53592. This compresses the seals
making the barrel installation easier.
Position the barrel pusher tool part

number 86721-30.
Be sure the barrel is clean and there is

no damage to it. A damaged barrel will
only damage the seals creating the need
to have to rebuild the pump prematurely.
Inspect the edge of the barrel for
chamfer. The chamfered edge is the
leading edge.
Note: New barrels will not have a
chamfered edge.

Attach Barrels Maintenance
Note the difference between the two

barrels. The red or green stripe and the
letter H in the serial number of the barrel
indicate that this is a WATER barrel.
DO NOT MIX UP THE BARRELS. THE
WATER BARREL AND OIL BARREL
ARE DIFFERENT. If you are unsure
which barrel is which or the barrel is
painted, take a file to the outside of the
barrel. The water barrel is hardened
steel, a file WILL NOT score it. The oil
barrel is not hardened steel, a file will
score it.
Use the barrel pusher tool to push the

barrel over the piston and seals.
Note how the barrel is pushing the seal

keeper off of the piston and seals. Also
note the ” steel rod supporting the barrel.
This is important to keep the barrel
properly aligned.

We are almost over the piston.
Remove the seal keeper once it is

completely off of the piston and seals.
Install it on the other piston.
Double check the o-ring to be sure it is

not out of position.

Push the barrel all the way into position.

Note the steel rod keeping the barrel
up off of the work bench and in proper
position.
Turn the pump around and install a

block of wood or something similar
to prevent the piston and shaft from
moving during the installation of the
second barrel.
Clean and inspect the other barrel to be

installed. Check for the chamfer on the
leading edge.

Note this one has a blue stripe indicating

it is a oil barrel. Again if you are unsure
that this is the correct barrel, use a file
to the OUTSIDE of the barrel. If the file
scores the barrel it is a oil barrel. If a
file cannot score the barrel, it is a water
barrel.
Push the barrel into position. Note the

steel rod supporting the barrel.
Push the barrel over the piston.

Continue pushing the barrel until the seal

keeper is all the way off of the piston and
seals. Remove the seal keeper.
Push the barrel all of the way into the

center block.
Remove the barrel pusher. Clean and

inspect the sensing rod prior to installing
it in the oil end shaft.

Sensing Rod & Yoke Maintenance
Put Loctite medium strength thread

blocker on the sensing rod yoke prior to
installation.
Note: Inspect the yoke for wear.
Replace any yoke showing any kind

of wear. NO NOT reuse a worn yoke.
Damage to the pump can occur if a
worn yoke is used.
Install the yoke and tighten.

This shows the sensing rod and yoke in
position.

Sensing Rod & Yoke Maintenance
This shows the tool used to install the

yoke. We simply welded a steel tube to
a socket making it easier to tighten the
yoke.
Tighten the yoke. There is no set torque

to the yoke and shaft. Simply make sure
it is a tight as possible.
Now we are ready to install the end

blocks.

Attach End Blocks Maintenance
Lubricate the o-ring groove.
Install the o-ring part # 29663 in the

end block
Do the same to the other end block.

Slide the sensing rod through the oil

end block. Pay close attention to the
positioning (timing) of each end block.
Make sure it is positioned correctly.
Be careful in positioning the sensing rod.
Carefully slide the end block on to the

barrel. The barrel must fit into the o-ring
groove to be properly sealed.

Measure the barrel length to be sure it is

properly seated in the center block and
end block o-ring grooves.
The inside length of the oil side is 19
inches
Install the water end block. Again, make

sure of the positioning (timing) of the end
block. Be sure the check valve holes are
aligned.
Be sure it seats properly against the

water barrel.

The end block and barrel appear properly

positioned. Measure the length of the
assembly like you did the other side. The
water side should be 19 inches inside
length.
Slide the sensing rod seal over the

sensing rod shaft.
Be sure the o-ring side of the seal goes

toward the pump.

The o-ring side of the seal goes toward

the pump. Lubricate the seal to ease the
installation. Install the hat bushing.
Install the sensing rod piston on the

sensing rod.
Lubricate the seal cavity prior to

installing the seal.

Use the piston and hat bushing to

install the seal in the end block. It
works much like a slide hammer.
Seal and hat bushing in place.
Now were ready for the truss rods.

Attach Truss Rods Maintenance
Install the nuts on one end of the truss

rod. This will be the oil end of the truss
rod.
In stall the truss rod through the end

blocks.
Do this with all four (4) truss rods.

Carefully slide the truss rods through

the water end block.
Lubricate the bolting plates. Only the

side that meets the nuts needs to be
lubricated.
Install the bolting plates on the water

end of the pump.
Note: only the water end gets the
bolting plates. Lubricate the truss
rod threads before installing the
nuts.

Install the nuts on the water end of the

truss rods.
On pumps used on units built in the

70’s and 80’s it will be necessary to
index the flat of the nut so that it does
not stick above the end block. This only
needs to be done on the oil end.
One person will need to hold the nut

on the oil end of the truss rod while
another person tightens the water end.

Tighten the nuts on the water end in an

X pattern.
Torque the nuts on the water end to

1200 foot pounds. Torque in an X pattern
increasing the torque in 200 foot pound
increments until 1200 foot pounds
is reached. If you are using a torque
multiplier, increase the torque to 1400
foot pounds.
Install the drain plug, or ball valve fitting,

in the center block and the water end
block.

Attach Detent Block Maintenance
Install an old style detent block on

the oil end block. This will support the
piston and shaft during the installation
of the roll pin.
Align the roll pin hole between the

sensing rod piston and shaft.
Install the roll pin to lock the piston and

shaft together.

Put Loctite on the end cap prior to

installing it on the sensing rod.
Install the end cap on the sensing rod.
End cap and piston are assembled.

Now remove the old style detent block.
NOTE: The old style detent block will
be left in place if the pump is
used on a unit built in the 80’s.
It will be removed and replaced
with a different detent block for
pumps used on 2100 series units.

Install the breather plugs in the detent

block prior to installing the detent block
on the pump. Tape over the breather
plugs if the pump is to be painted after
assembly.
Install the detent block.

Install the sensor.
NOTE: Prior to installing the sensor
make sure the sensing rod piston
is properly positioned under the
sensor. Failure to properly position
the piston under the sensor can
cause the sensor to be improperly
set causing damage to the sensor
and pump.
Screw the sensor down until it touches

the piston and back it off a minimum of
2 turns but no more than 3 turns. This
allows the LED on the sensor to be
positioned where it can easily be seen
when the pump

Attach Compensator Block Maintenance
Install the compensator block.
Install the hydraulic hose between the

oil end block and the compensator
block.
Clean and lubricate the check valve

o-ring grooves on the water end of the
pump.

Install Check Valves Maintenance
Install the o-rings.
There are 4 o-rings that need to be

installed. 2 intake and 2 exhaust.
Install the check valves.

Install Check Manifolds Maintenance
Note the intake and exhaust check

valves are installed opposite of each
other. The intake check valves have the
springs out. The exhaust check valves
have the springs inside the pump.
Install the intake manifold blocks.

Note there are different size blocks for
different pumps. Be sure you install
the correct one. Install new o-rings
in the manifold blocks prior to
installing them on the pump.
Install the hose and center block elbow

manifold. Be sure to tighten the hose
clamps.

Finishing Up Maintenance
Install the exhaust check valve blocks.

If the unit has a debris body wash out
system, the outside valve block will have
a ball valve installed in it. Install new
o-rings in the manifold blocks prior to
installation.
Install the hose between the two valve

blocks. This hose is only installed on
units with a debris body washout system.
Paint the pump if necessary. We are now

ready to install it back on the unit.

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Vactor Rodder Pump Rebuild Guide

Effective Date February 17, 2011 1 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Effective Date February 17, 2011 2 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

A. 53592-30 seal compressor

Effective Date February 17, 2011 3 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Remove the bumper and hydraulic

Remove the pump from the Vactor.

Remove the hydraulic hose from the

Effective Date February 17, 2011 4 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Remove the compensator block from

Install an old style detent block to

Remove the locking pin from the

Effective Date February 17, 2011 5 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Be careful not to lose the roll pin as you

Hold the sensing rod with a screw driver

You may have to clean up the threads in

Effective Date February 17, 2011 6 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Remove the piston.

Once the piston has been removed

Remember to keep the old style

Effective Date February 17, 2011 7 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Cover the check valve holes to prevent

Remove the truss rod nuts from the

It does not matter what order you

Effective Date February 17, 2011 8 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Remove the nut plates once the nuts

Be sure to clean the nut plates of any

Remove the truss rods from the oil end.

Effective Date February 17, 2011 9 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Loosen the oil end block from the end of

Allow the oil to drain from the oil side

Inspect the check valve O-ring groove

Effective Date February 17, 2011 10 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Remove the water end block and inspect

Remove the oil end block. Be careful not

This can also be done using a standard

Effective Date February 17, 2011 11 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Inspect the sensing rod yoke for wear.

Only the yoke on the right should

Check the sensing rod for any damage.

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Carefully inspect the end block.

Also inspect the check valve o-ring

Shown is a special tool part number

Effective Date February 17, 2011 13 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Clamp the barrel remover to the barrel

Remove the barrel. Note: there will

Effective Date February 17, 2011 14 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Pull the barrel all the way off or over

Get ready to support the barrel as it

Support the barrel once it is over the

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Inspect the piston and barrel for any

Repeat the procedure for the water

Get ready to support the barrel as it

Effective Date February 17, 2011 16 Rodder Pump Rebuild_r0

Support the barrel as it clears the

Inspect the water barrel and piston for

Be sure to identify any oil barrel or