Bestia

Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
The Beast
Crochet Pattern
This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka

@chiacrafts, who hopes you’ll enjoy it a lot!
1
A message for you!

Hello dear fellow crocheters! My name is Chiara (pronounced “Kiara”, as I’m Italian) and I’m not
only the girl in the picture down there but, most importantly, the person behind the Instagram
account @chiacrafts!
In the very beginning crochet was, for me, nothing more than a Sunday hobby, to keep my mind
busy and far away from disaster fantasies. Never would I have imagined achieving such success!
Seeing how many people wanted to reproduce my amigurumi, I started sharing instructions for it,
mainly as a way of thanking all my followers for their enthusiasm.
However, writing a pattern doesn’t come without its own challenges and quite an effort: while the
design time remains unvaried, physically writing it down in digital format, remaking the pieces to
make sure they’re correct, and preparing all comments and pictures, takes about more than a third
of the time I spend on a project.
I’m an independent artist: I’m not sponsored, not affiliated to any magazine or company, and I
don’t receive any retribution for my work other than what I gain from my small Ravelry shop. I
would love to share all my patterns for free but, seeing the amount of time and energy I spend on
them, that wouldn't be possible.
If you like my work and wish for me to keep writing crochet patterns, please support me: don't
redistribute this pattern and don't make use of pirated copies.
Not sure if yours is a pirated copy? Read the next page :)
Let me thank you once again for your love and

support. You’re all a source of great motivation
for me!
Cheers,
Chiara
2
Licence
Hello, and thank you for being about to try out this pattern! It was made with a lot of love and
personal effort :)
Here are a few rules and advice you’d REALLY better read and keep in mind!
This is a pattern for sale, available via my Ravelry shop exclusively (link in the header of this
document). If you’ve found it in any other location, you’re reading a stolen copy, and you shouldn’t
use it. Also, this doesn’t allow you to redistribute it in turn.
DO NOT copy or redistribute this pattern in ANY form. Unauthorized translations are also
prohibited.
DO NOT reuse my pictures.
This pattern is intended for personal use only.
Please give me credits when posting online by always adding “Pattern by @chiacrafts” and
#chiacraftspatterns. If you don’t post online, I would very much like to receive a picture of your
work anyway :D
Please respect my copyright, my wishes and my hard work. Support me and help me carry on
this activity. Thank you for listening :)
For any doubt, you can contact me via PM on Instagram or by email. I DO NOT answer questions
via private message on Ravelry, but you have all the information to contact me otherwise. I
always answer :)
3
stacking concentric layers. There are no parts

worked in joined rounds in this pattern.
Read Me! When working in rows, instead, at the end of each

row you must turn your work and proceed in the
opposite direction: the first st of a row must be
Pay attention to the details! worked in the last stitch of the previous row, thus
proceeding zig-zag and creating a 2D shape.
When working in rows, you should always make a
Take a good look at all the pictures and don’t be
turning chain at the end of each row of sc to help
afraid to re-do some parts. Luckily, they’re so
you better turn your work. This turning chain
small it’s quite fast :)
might not be always explicitly reported in the
It's a good practice to read the entire document
pattern, but it’s visible in the diagrams.
before starting. Knowing what to expect will
When working in rows, after a chain, always start
help you pay attention!
from the second loop from hook, if not specified
otherwise.
Also, both when working in rows and working in
Tips and Tutorials rounds, work the stitches always through the
entire stitch (not in the back loops or front loops
You find quick video tutorials on how to work in only) unless specified otherwise.
rounds, rows and how to execute all the basic
stitches in my Youtube channel. I advise you to
have a look in case you should be unsure about
how to work. Anyway, all the stitches are quite
For left-handed people
standard, so you might as well just type the name
If you’re left-handed, everything is mirror-like for
of the stitch on google, and follow the first
tutorial popping out. you!
You also find some useful tips related to my Right-handed people should work the rounds
patterns in my Instagram guides. I strongly clockwise, keeping the crochet hook between
recommend taking a look if this is the first time them and the work. Left-handed people should
you’re following one of my patterns! This work in rounds counterclockwise, always
material is constantly evolving, since I keep keeping the work between them and the crochet
improving in explaining myself and I keep hook.
enriching it, that's why I'm not linking any post to
Right-handed should work in rows proceeding
specific parts of the document.
from right to left, left-handed should work from
left to right. Therefore, you can easily follow this
Rounds and Rows pattern keeping in mind to always swap
instructions specularly: for example, if I say that
Parts of this pattern have been worked in Rounds, the stitch marker should be placed on the left side
others in Rows. of the doll, that makes it the right side for you,
When working in rounds, the first stitch of a and so on.
round must be worked upon the first stitch of the
previous one, thus proceeding in spiral and
creating a 3D hollow shape. This technique is
known as continuous rounds.
Stitch marker usage
Another way of working in rounds is the joined I place the stitch marker on the LAST st of the
rounds one: in this case, you start each round
round. I.E.: in my patterns, it marks the end of the
with a chain, work the first st in the stitch right
round.
below the chain, and you end each round with a sl
in the first st. You don’t proceed in a spiral, but by
4
Don’t work inside out!

If you’re working correctly and you’re right
Abbreviations
handed, you should work clockwise keeping the * These are standard US standard abbreviations
crochet hook between you and the work + something I’ve made up to ease the reading.
(counterclockwise if you're left-handed). If you’re ★ R = Round (continuous or joined)
right handed and you’re working counterclockwise ★ Row = row
keeping the work between you and your crochet ★ MR = Magic Ring
hook, then you’re working inside out. You’ll have a ★ st = stitch
hard time following this pattern if you do so, I’d ★ sk = skip
suggest you correct it. You can find a video with
★ sc = single crochet
further explanations here in my youtube channel:
★ inc = sc increase (invisible sc increase, i.e.
The Dark Side of the Amigurumis .
1st sc in FL, 2nd through the entire st
when working in rounds, [2 sc] through
Sew or glue the entire st when working in rows)
★ dec = sc decrease (invisible sc decrease
I usually glue the pieces on with some fabric glue. when working in rounds, sc2tog when
It’s faster and less annoying. However, you can working in rows)
probably achieve the same result by sewing, as ★ dc = double crochet
long as you have good sewing skills. ★ hdc = half double crochet
★ ch = chain
★ sl = slip stitch
YU vs YO stitches ★ tr = treble crochet
★ BLO = back loop only (corresponds to the
You find more info about Yarn Over (“v” stitch) and
inner loop when working in rounds)
Yarn Under (“x stitch”) in the dedicated post in my
★ FLO = front loop only (corresponds to the
IG profile.
The choice of stitch type doesn’t impact the result outer loop when working in rounds)
more than a change in gauge. It’s not compulsory ★ [ ] = means that the stitches are to be
to follow these indications. done in the same loop or stitch
★ CY-PO = cut the yarn and pull it out from
the stitch
★ IJ = Invisible Join
★ FO = fasten off (CY-PO + IJ)
★ stsc = standing sc
★ tch = turning chain
★ rc = rising chain
5
Anyhow, my advice is to avoid picking a yarn

much thicker than indicated, to avoid a sloppy
Materials result: maximum 1 size bigger!
★ 2.0 mm crochet hook

★
★
1.0 mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle Dimensions
★ 8 mm black safety eyes x 2 Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most
★ Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other) importantly, working tight!!!), the finished
★ Yarn all in the same size of the following amigurumi will be around 18 cm tall.
colors. I’ve used YarnArt Jeans:
○ Mustard (84): vest
○ White (01): fangs
○ Turquoise (33): eyes
○ Navy (54): pants
○ Jeans (16): suit
○ Light beige (87): eyebrows
○ Beige (07): nose and beard
○ Brown (40): body and mane
○ Dark Brown (70): mane details
○ Yellow (35): suit details
○ Black (53): nails
★ Fabric glue
Note on the eyes

The right safety eye size depends on the doll’s
dimensions! Don’t purchase 8 mm eyes if you’re
not sure the dimensions of your doll will be
similar to mine. My advice is to purchase a box
with many different sizes, and use the one which
better suits your doll. Approximately, safety eyes
should be 2.5 stitches wide.
Note on the yarn

I used YarnArt Jeans, which is a yarn made to be
worked with a 3 or 3.5 mm hook (it comes only in
1 size, so you can’t go wrong). As usual when
working amigurumi, I’ve used a hook 1 size
smaller than indicated to better work the body
tight, thus avoiding holes in the crochet from
which the stuffing would be visible or fall
through.
You should get a good result with this pattern
as long as you stick to one yarn brand/size, work
the body tight with a hook 1 size smaller than
indicated, and scale the other hooks accordingly.
6
Legs
Crochet hook: 2.0 mm
Work tight
Work YU
Start with brown yarn. You’ll also need black and
R7: 3 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (12)
navy
R8: 12 sc (12)
R1: ch 9 (8)
Make a tch, turn
R2: 16 sc working around the chain (16) (as in
the following scheme)
Work the following rows.

The combination
no tch, turn, sk 1, 1 sc
works as a decrease at the beginning of the row
(see the diagram)
Row a: 5 sc (5) no tch, turn
R3-R5: 16 sc (16)
Row b: sk 1, 4 sc (4) no tch, turn
R6: (1 dec, 6 sc) x 2 (14)
Row c: sk 1, 3 sc (3) no tch, turn
Pause to work on the nails.
The nails are french knots (3 twists) to be made in
the holes left from the chain in R1.
Make them poorly so they will look more pointy
(good news for anyone who finds it difficult to
make perfect french knots :D ).
7
Stuff the foot.

R10: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 4 (12)
R11: 2 dec, 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc (12)
R12: 1 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec (10)
R13: 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (10)
Change color to navy.
Stuff the foot up to this point. Don’t stuff any
further. You’ll stuff the legs after having worked
the lateral mustard stripes.
R14: 1 dec, 3 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc (11)
R15: work BLO: 11 sc (11)
R16: 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc (14)
R17: (6 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (16)
Now, work around this piece clockwise (you R18: 16 sc (16)
turned): R19: 3 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (18)
R9: sk 1, 2 sc, 4 sc working between rows on the R20: 18 sc (18)
left side of the foot, 7 sc on the front of the ankle, End with 1 sl, IJ in the next st (so that the total
3 sc working between rows on the right side of count of stitches of the last round remains 18).
the foot (16) Mark the last st of R20 (the one before the sl)
with a stitch marker.
Keep the leg upside down.

Join the yarn in one of the FLs left from R14 (you
worked R15 BLO).
Work 1 stsc, 10 sc in the FLs, and end with an IJ

in the stsc.
8
Hide the tails left inside the leg.
Make
1 stsc, 8 sc in the same leg, then
ch 2,
1 sc in the 12th st counting counterclockwise
from the stitch marker on the other leg
Make 2.
proceed with 17 sc in the second leg (18 in total

in the second leg),
2 sc in the back of the chain,
9 sc in the first leg (40)
You just joined the legs so that the feet are
slightly twisted outwards and the end of the
round is on the left hip.
Body
Work tight
Work YU
Start with navy yarn. You’ll also need mustard,
white and brown
R21: Merge the yarn with 1 stsc on the 8th stitch
counting counterclockwise from the stitch marker R22: 22 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1
(the last st of R20, before the sl). inc, 2 sc (44)
R23-R25: 44 sc (44)
9
R26: 22 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 We’re now going to work on a color change
dec, 2 sc (40) scheme to make the vest.
R27: (1 dec, 18 sc) x 2 (38) Simplified version
R28: 9 sc, 1 dec, 17 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc (36) If you wish to simplify the pattern, you might as
well work R35-R38 all in mustard. The color
change portion will get covered by the foulard
anyway.
Color change version
Remember that the color changes must be made
yarning over with the new color on the second
step of the previous stitch.
Cut the yarn each time, and tie it with the other
color extremity to secure it, then trim.
I advise you to do it each round as you go or every
other round. Pairing the right extremities once the
body has narrowed down might be challenging
otherwise.
R35: 10 sc, change to white, 1 sc, change to

mustard, 21 sc (32)
Adapting the pattern
The white stitch should fall in the middle of the
Stop and work the lateral mustard stripes.
torso. If it doesn’t, adapt this round so it will, and
Work a vertical line of surface sl on each side.
the following ones (up to R38) accordingly.
Sometimes, adaptations are needed when your
materials, proportions, hand or gauge don’t match
perfectly those of the designer. When adapting a
pattern you should take into account where the
stitches should fall both in terms of shape and
colors. It’s a wide topic, and it's a bit out of scope
for a single pattern. Maybe I’ll write a dedicated
post in my Instagram profile in the future (if you're
reading this long after the publication day, maybe
I already did, check it out!). What seems more
appropriate and useful now is to report the most
frequent adaptation introduced by my testers: I'm
doing so in the rounds marked in pink.
Or R35: 8 sc, change to white, 1 sc, change to
mustard, 23 sc (32)
R36: 9 sc, change to white, 3 sc, change to

mustard, 20 sc (32)
Or R36: 7 sc, change to white, 3 sc, change to
You can stuff the legs now. mustard, 22 sc (32)
R37: 6 sc, 1 dec, change to white, 4 sc, change to
Change to mustard. mustard, 2 sc, 1 dec, (6 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (28)
R29: work BLO: 36 sc (36) Or R37: 5 sc, 1 dec, change to white, 4 sc, change
R30: 8 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc (34) to mustard, 2 sc, 1 dec, (6 sc, 1 dec) x 2, 1 sc
R31: 34 sc (34) (28)
R32: (15 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (32) R38: 5 sc, 1 dec, change to white, 5 sc, change to
R33-R34: 32 sc (32) mustard, 1 dec, (5 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (24)
10
Or R38: 4 sc, 1 dec, change to white, 5 sc, change up on the right white/mustard color change line,
to mustard, 1 dec, (5 sc, 1 dec) x 2, 1sc (24) turn around the neck along the mustard/brown
Change color to brown. color change line,
R39: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 4 (20)
Then down the left white/mustard color change

line and end with an IJ.
Keep stuffing the body.

R40: 20 sc (20)
R41: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 10 (30)
R42: 30 sc (30)
R43: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 15 (45)
R44: (8 sc, 1 inc) x 5 (50)
R45: 50 sc (50)
R45 should end right on the back of the
amigurumi (lime-green stitch marker in the
following figure).
The yellow stitch marker marks the last of the
first 8 sc of R46, and the orange one the end of
Using mustard yarn, work some slip stitches the (2 sc, 1 inc) sequence.
around the color change line as in the following
figure, to create the details of the vest.
First bottom to point of the white part,
11
If the end of your R45 should be in a different R52: (9 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (50)
position, you should adapt R46 to keep the R53-R55: 50 sc (50)
increases on the front. Remember that, when R56: (8 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (45)
adapting a pattern, you should never add or R57: 45 sc (45)
remove stitches from any round, but you rather R58: (7 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (40)
should distribute the sts differently. Pause to work on the eyes.
Again, I’m reporting the most common adaptation
carried out by my testers in pink. Prepare each eye in the following way.
R46: 8 sc, (2 sc, 1 inc) x 10, 12 sc (60) Split your turquoise yarn in half. If you’re using
R46: (1 inc, 2 sc) x 10, 20 sc (60) YarnArt Jeans, you should use only 2 of the 4
threads YarnArt Jeans is composed of.
Work YO with 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Make a ch 2, the first loop must be worked
extremely loose.
R47-49: 60 sc (60)
The end of the R49 should fall on the back of the
doll (green stitch marker in the next picture).
Then work
R1:[7 hdc, 1 sc] (8)
change to white (still half splitted).
I'm writing [2 sc] instead of “inc” because I
actually worked 2 sc in the same stitch to execute
the increase, whereas the abbreviation “inc” is
defined as invisible sc increase instead :)
R2:([2 sc], 1 sc) x 3 (9)
CY-PO
The decreases in R50 should fall on the front of
the doll. Adaptation in pink.
R50: 7 sc, (6 sc, 1 dec) x 5, 13 sc (55)
R50: (1 dec, 6 sc) x 5, 20 sc (55)
R51: 55 sc (55)
12
Insert the safety eyes inside.

The white part should always face outwards and
the right face of the work should be the visible
one for each eye. Hence, you should just rotate
the crochet work, not flip it.
Before proceeding, cut two long brown threads

and make them pass below the eyes and behind
the head.
We’ll use them later on to indent the eyes.
I position the eyes between R54 and R55, 8 st
apart, but I think it would be even better to
position them between R53 and R54 instead.
Consider following this direction :)
Secure the eyes using the washer.

Insert the turquoise tails left inside the work and
tie them with a small knot. Use the white tails left
to sew a bit the white part of the eye to the body,
to keep it in place.
13
Before proceeding
You’re now going to work on small details to be
glued or sewn on. I’d advise you to first prepare
all the pieces, pin them on, see how they fit and
proceed with gluing them in the order indicated in
the pattern.
Now proceed working on the head. As an alternative, you can glue them on as soon
R59: (6 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (35) as they’re ready, as described in the rest of the
R60: (5 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (30) pattern. However, I believe that having an overall
Stuff as you close. Remember to stuff well below view of the final item will help you better position
the indentation threads. the pieces, and you’ll get a better result.
The head must be stuffed very firmly, and don’t
neglect the last rounds!
R61: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (25)
R62: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (20)
R63: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (15)
Face details
R64: 1 sc, 7 dec (8) Crochet hook: 2.0 mm and 1.0 mm
CY-PO, pass the tail left inside all FLs of the last Work tight
round, pull and make a knot. Hide the tail inside Work YO
the body.
Pull the threads to indent the eyes, then secure Eyebrows x 2

them with a knot and hide the tails left. It will
straighten the eyes and emphasize the cheeks. Work with light beige yarn
This is not an optional step: it's needed so the R1: ch 5 (4)
beast won't seem to constantly be looking R2: work around the chain: [2 sc], 2 sc, [3 sc], 3
upwards. sc (10)
Here is the result so far:
R3: [2 sc] x 2, 2 sc, [2 sc] x 3, 2 sc, [2 sc] (16)

End with 1 sl in the 1st sc, IJ in the 3rd sc.
Make 2.
14
Here’s the finished piece.
Nose
Start with beige yarn, You’ll also need dark brown
R1: ch 6 (5)
R2: Work around the chain: [2 hdc], 3 hdc, [3
hdc], 4 hdc (12)
End with: 1 inc in the 1st stitch, 1 sc, 1 sl, IJ in the
st immediately after the one where you made the
sl (the total count of the perimeter increases and
becomes 13).
Mouth and beard

Start with dark brown. You’ll also need brown
(the lighter one), and beige
The diagram you find at the end is probably very
Pick the dark brown yarn. helpful to better understand the pattern.
Join the yarn on the 4th stitch before the IJ Work in rows with dark brown.
(counting counterclockwise right face facing you). Row1: ch 12 (11)
This small part is worked in rows. Row2: 11 sc (11)
Work BLO: CY-PO
Row1: 1 stsc, [2 sc], 1 sc, [2 sc], 1 sc (7), turn
Use brown yarn (the lighter brown).

Join the yarn in the last ch made in Row1.
Row3: Work 11 sc in the lower loops of the chain,
Row2: 7 sc (7), turn (11) no tch, turn
Row3: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 2, 1 sc (5)
CY-PO.
Fold this small dark brown piece so that the first
and last stitch of Row3 will correspond. Using the
tail left wave through corresponding couples of
stitches of Row3 to close up the nose.
The following rows are worked “vertically”, they

are perpendicular to the rows you’ve worked so
far.
Row4: sk 1 of Row3, 1 sc in Row3, ch 5 (4)
15
Row5: 4 sc working in the loop of the chain, then

work in the sts of Row3: 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc
changing color to beige (7), no tch, turn
Row6: sk 2 (skip the last sc and dec), Work FLO

in Row5: 5 sc, ch 3 (8), no tch, turn, Here’s the scheme:
Row7: 2 sc, work BLO in Row6: 5 sc, change to
brown on the last sc,
work in Row3: 1 sc in the same st where you

made the sc on which you changed to beige, 1
dec, 1 sc (11), no tch, turn
Row8: sk 2, work FLO 5 sc (5), tch, turn
Row9: work BLO: 5 sc, work in Row3: 1 sc, 1 sl
(7)
CY-PO
Use the beige tail left to cover up the small
imperfection created when switching to beige.
The right side of the work (the one which will be
visible once glued on the face) is the one with the Fangs x 2
FLs and BLs left. Row2 should also naturally
curve in this direction (the “V”s are visible). Using white half splitted yarn and 1.0 mm crochet
hook, make some small fangs in the following
way:
ch 5, work from second loop from hook: 1 sl, 1 sc,
2 hdc,
CY-PO
16
Make 2 and glue them to the wrong side of the

mouth/beard. Here you see the beard all beige
just because the picture comes from an older
version.
Assembly
Now that you’ve got all the elements which
compose the face, you can pin them on and start
gluing.
To make sure to glue the elements in the right

place, you can use the following trick. First
position the pieces and pin each down with at
least 2 pins. Then, keeping the pins on, leverage
below the piece to make it slide towards the
smooth end of the pin. Put some glue underneath
and make it slide back into position.
17
Foulard
Work extremely loosely on purpose
Work YO
Work with white yarn
This piece is worked in rows. Remember to make
a tch and turn at the end of each row.
Row1: ch 7 (6)
Row2: 6 sc (6)
Row3: 6 sc BLO, ch 2 (7)
Row4: 1 sc in 2nd loop from hook, 6 sc BLO (7) This is how this piece should fit around his neck.
Row5: 6 sc BLO Sew it or glue it in place.
End with: ch 21, 20 sc starting from 2nd loop
from hook.
CY-PO
Pass the starting tail in all the ends of the rows,

and pull.
Use the end tail to do the same on the other side.
18
DON’T cut the yarn.

Use another skein of jeans yarn or the other end
of this skein to work the tails of the suit.
Suit Skip 5 sts from one of the sides of the last row,
and join the yarn in the 6th.

Work tight, but you can relax a bit compared to
the body
Work YO
Start with jeans yarn. You’ll also need yellow
This part is worked in rows.
Make a tch and turn your work at the end of each
row.
Row1: ch 23 (22)
Row2: 22 sc (22) Work:
Row3: 5 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (24) Row1: 1 stsc, 6 sc (7) no tch, turn
Row4: 24 sc (24) Row2: sk 1, 6 sc (6) no tch, turn
Row5: 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 Row3: sk 1, 5 sc (5) no tch, turn
inc, 4 sc (28) Row4: sk 1, 4 sc (4) no tch, turn
Row7: 7 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc (30) Row6: sk 1, 2 sc (2) no tch, turn
Row9: 7 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc (32) CY-PO
Row10-Row11: 32 sc (32)
CY-PO.
Do the same on the other side.

Join the yarn on the last ch made in Row1 to work
the neck:
Row1: 1 stsc, 21 sc (22) NO tch, turn
Row2: sk 1, 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3
sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 dec (24)
Go back to where you left off when you finished

working the neck.
19
Work a round of jeans color sc all around this Join the yellow yarn on the 13th of the last 24 sc
piece as described in the following: you made on the neck (12th counting from the
11 sc down the side working between rows. end).
In the 1st stitch of the base: [1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc]
4 sc on the base,
6 sc on the side of the tail working between rows,
[1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc] on the point of the tail,
6 sc on the other side of the tail working between
rows,
8 sc on the base,
6 sc on the side of the tail working between rows,
[1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc] on the point of the tail,
6 sc on the other side of the tail working between
rows,
4 sc on the base
In the last stitch of the base: [1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc]
11 sc going up the other side working between
rows,
24 sc on the upper side of the neck.
Then FO Work:
Note: it could be useful for you to mark the 1st of 1 st sc, 10 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, [2 dc], [1 dc, 1 hdc], 4
the 11 sc to help you work the yellow perimeter. hdc, 4 sc
You just worked your way down to the end of the
11 jeans sc on the side.
Now work 1 sc in each st (even the chs), until you

find yourself on the opposite side of the piece, in
correspondence with the other 11 sc on the side.
Move up to the neck with:

4 sc, 4 hdc, [1 hdc, 1 dc], [2 dc], 2 dc
and then conclude the neck with:
1 hdc, 11 sc
End with an IJ.
Fasten off and weave in all the tails left.
This is how this piece should look like:
In total, the outer perimeter is of 98 sts (98)

(including the chains).
20
And this is how it should fit.
Arms x 2
Work tight
Work YU
Start with brown yarn. You’ll also need jeans and
yellow
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: 6 inc (12)
R3: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (14)
R4: 14 sc (14)
R5: (5 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (12)
R6: 1 popcorn stitch, 11 sc (12)
A popcorn stitch is a sequence of 4 uncomplete
dc. You end up with 5 loops on your hook, YO and
pull through all 5 loops on your hook. Then push
the bubble out.
R7: 12 sc (12)
Here’s how it should look like so far:
Add 6 sc off round. The last of these 6 is now the

last st of the round. Move the stitch marker to this
stitch and continue working. The total number of
sts of the last round stays 12.
Sew it or glue it in place.
Leave some space for the tail.
Alternatively, you can skip to the end of the
pattern and make the tail first.
21
Change color to jeans. Work:

R8: Work BLO: 12 sc (12) Row1: 1 stsc, 11 sc, 1 sc in the same loop where
R9: 12 sc (12) you made the stsc (13), tch, turn
Stuff as you go. Row2: 1 sc, (3 sc, 1 inc) x 3 (16) change to
R10: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (14) yellow, tch, turn
R11: 14 sc (14) Row3: 16 sc (16)
R12: 3 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc (16) CY-PO.
R13-R17: 16 sc (16) Fasten off and hide all the tails left.
R18: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 4 (12) Make 2.
R19: 6 dec (6)
CY-PO, pass the tail left inside all the FLs of the
last round, pull and hide the tail left inside the
arm.
Sew them or glue them on the body as in the

following pictures.
Go back to the round of FLs left, join the yarn right

upon the thumb.
22
Note that the arms are attached over the neckline!
Mane
Work tight, a tiny bit more relaxed compared to
the body
Work YO
Start with dark brown. You’ll also need the
regular brown
You find the scheme at the very end.
Row1: ch 40 (39)
Row2: 39 sc, change color to brown (39), no tch,
turn
You can cut the dark brown.
Row3: sk 1, Work FLO: 35 sc, ch 2 (35), no tch,
turn
Row4: 1 sc, work BLO: 31 sc, 1 sl (33), no tch,
turn
Row5: sk 1, work FLO: 30 sc, ch 2 (32), no tch,
turn,
Row6: 1 sc, work BLO: 29 sc, 1 sl (31)
CY-PO
Join the brown yarn on the first ch of R1.

Work:
Row7: 1 dec, 34 sc, ch 2 (36), no tch, turn
To work the first decrease of Row7, do the
following:
Insert your hook in the 1st ch, pull up a loop. Then
insert your hook in the next ch, pull up a second
loop and execute a sc.
23
Row8: 1 sc, work FLO: 31 sc, 1 sl (33), no tch,

turn
Row9: sk 1, work BLO: 30 sc, ch 2 (32), no tch,
turn,
Row10: 1 sc, work FLO: 29 sc, 1 sl (31)
CY-PO
The right side of the fabric is the one with the FLs
and BLs visible.
Don’t fasten off all the tails yet, you’ll do it once
the mane will be complete.
Work Rows 11 to 17 on the other half, specularly.

Swap FLO and BLO so you’ll have the loops left
on the same side.
Join the brown yarn on the 4th stitch of Row6.
Now work on the sideburns.

Row11: 1 stsc in 4th st of Row6, ch 24 (24), turn
Start from the left side.
Row12: 23 sc in Row11, sk 1 st of Row6, 1 sc in
Join the brown yarn on the 8th ch made in Row11.
Row6 (24), no tch, turn
Row13: Work FLO in Row12: sk 1, 3 sc, 15 hdc,
3 sc, 1 sl (22), no tch, turn
Row14: Work BLO in Row13: sk 1, 5 sc, 12 hdc,
4 sc, sk 2 of Row6, 1 sc in Row6 changing to dark
brown (22), no tch, turn
Row15: Work FLO in Row14: sk 1, 3 sc, 12 hdc,
4 sc, 1 sl (20), no tch, turn
Row16: Work BLO in Row15: sk 1, 17 sc, change
to brown, sk 2 st of Row6 (you didn’t work all sts
of Row15), 1 sc in Row6 (18) no tch, turn
Row17: Work FLO in Row16: sk 1, 3 sc, 9 hdc, 3
sc, 1 sl (16)
CY-PO.
24
Row18: 1 stsc, ch 10 (9) Here’s the scheme for the left side of the mane.
Row19: 1 sl, 1 sc, 5 hdc, 2 sc, sk 1 ch of Row11, The right half, as mentioned before, is worked
1 sc in the next ch (10), no tch, turn specularly switching FLO (“F” in the scheme) and
Row20: Work FLO in Row19: sk 1, 2 sc, 4 hdc, 1 BLO (“B” in the scheme).
sc (7), tch, turn
Row21: Work BLO in Row20: 2 sc, 3 hdc, 2 sc,
skip 1 ch of Row11, 1 sl in the next (8)
CY-PO
Do the same on the other half, specularly.
Invert BLO and FLO, so the loops left will be all
on the same face.
Then FO and weave in all the tails left.
This is the wrong side:
This is the right side (where all the FLs and BLs
are visible):
25
Ears x 2 Horns x 2
Work tight, but no need to work as tight as the
Work tight
body
Work YU
Work YO
Work with black
Work with dark brown
R1: ch 12 (12)
R1: ch 5 (4)
Join the extremities to start working in rounds (1st
R2: working around the chain just as you did for
st of R2 is to be worked in the 1st st of R1).
the eyebrows: [2 sc], 2 sc, [3 sc], 3 sc (10)
R2-R3: 12 sc (12)
R3: [2 hdc] x 2, [1 hdc, 1 sc], 2 sc, [2 sc], 2 sc, [1
R4: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 2, 6 sc (10)
sc, 1 hdc], [2 hdc] (16)
R5: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 2, 4 sc (8)
R4: [2 sc] x 4, 6 sc, CY-PO (you don’t complete
R6: 3 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec (6)
the round) (20)
R7: 2 dec, CY-PO (4)
Make 2.
Pass the tail left in all the FLs of the last round,
You’ll notice that one side is more rounded than
pull and hide the tail left inside .
the other. The rounded side must be the top one
Make 2.
for both ears.
To make this correctly, flip the ears so that the

right face of the fabric will stay on the inside for
the right ear, and on the outside for the left one.
Assembly the
hairstyle
First position the mane so that the dark brown
“point” will fall between the eyebrows.
Pin it on the back and pin the end extremity of the
sideburn.
Everything else should not be squeezed down.
The sideburns and the lateral parts (the “wings”
of the airplane) should bend and create a “pointy”
shape (see figure).
26
The ears should be positioned very close to the

eyebrows, in the portion of the body left between
the eyebrow and the mane (they don’t overlap
with the mane).
Now let’s glue the mane.
If you plan on sewing instead, make sure to stitch

in the same points where I indicate to place the
glue.
If the mane isn’t secured to the head exclusively in
the right spots, it won’t look as fluffy :)
First, glue the front and back part (I didn’t take a

picture while gluing the front).
Let’s say that Row1 to Row 10 of the mane can
be completely glued onto the head.
Don’t glue it yet, position the ears first.
27
Last, glue the horns on.

I didn’t stuff them.
You’ll notice that the horns have a side which is
more convex. This part should stay on the inside.
Position the horns on the mane, right upon the
ears.
I’ve placed a bit of glue on the mane and pinned
them down.
Then the side part (the “wings’). Apply some glue

on the head right next to the central portion.
Last, glue the sideburns. Use one drop of glue and

secure only the tip close to the mouth.
28
Using the tails left, pull the tail up between the

suit and the pants.
Tail
body
Work YO
Work with brown
Row1: ch 17 (16)
Row2: 1 sl, 1 sc, 9 hdc, 4 sc, 1 sl (16), no tch,
turn
Row3: sk 1, 4 sc, 4 hdc, ch 2, 1 sl in second loop
from hook, 1 sc on the side of the last hdc,
Then sew it or glue it in place.
2 sc working in Row2, ch 2, 1 sl in second loop

from hook, 1 sc on the side of the last sc,
2 sc working in Row2,
ch 2, 1 sl in second loop from hook, 1 sc on the
side of the last sc, 1 sc working in Row2, 1 sl,
CY-PO.
Bring the end tail to the top waving through the
loops of the chain made in Row1.
Pull slightly to make the tail curl.
Of course, it would make sense to glue the tail

before the jacket, but I did it as a very last step.
In the pattern, I report the instructions as I’ve
executed them.
29
Tie it to the mane, he’s ready for the party! :)
Ribbon
body
Work YO
Work with jeans
Work:
(ch 5, work from 3rd loop from hook: 2 hdc, 1 sc)
x2
Congratulations!
Your Beast is ready!
Don’t forget to send me a picture or tag me if you
post on Instagram (more info in the license page!).
Will you crochet other characters from the Beauty
and the Beast series?
Tie start and end extremity and wrap them

around the midsection to give it a “ribbon” shape.
30

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka

A message for you!

Let me thank you once again for your love and

DO NOT reuse my pictures.

This pattern is intended for personal use only.

stacking concentric layers. There are no parts

Read Me! When working in rows, instead, at the end of each

Don’t work inside out!

Anyhow, my advice is to avoid picking a yarn

Materials result: maximum 1 size bigger!

★ 2.0 mm crochet hook

Note on the eyes

Note on the yarn

Work the following rows.

Stuff the foot.

Keep the leg upside down.

Work 1 stsc, 10 sc in the FLs, and end with an IJ

Hide the tails left inside the leg.

proceed with 17 sc in the second leg (18 in total

R35: 10 sc, change to white, 1 sc, change to

R36: 9 sc, change to white, 3 sc, change to

Then down the left white/mustard color change

Keep stuffing the body.

Insert the safety eyes inside.

Before proceeding, cut two long brown threads

Secure the eyes using the washer.

Pull the threads to indent the eyes, then secure Eyebrows x 2

R3: [2 sc] x 2, 2 sc, [2 sc] x 3, 2 sc, [2 sc] (16)

Here’s the finished piece.

Mouth and beard

Use brown yarn (the lighter brown).

The following rows are worked “vertically”, they

Row5: 4 sc working in the loop of the chain, then

Row6: sk 2 (skip the last sc and dec), Work FLO

work in Row3: 1 sc in the same st where you

Make 2 and glue them to the wrong side of the

To make sure to glue the elements in the right

Pass the starting tail in all the ends of the rows,

Use the end tail to do the same on the other side.

DON’T cut the yarn.

Crochet hook: 2.0 mm

Do the same on the other side.

Go back to where you left off when you finished

Now work 1 sc in each st (even the chs), until you

Move up to the neck with:

This is how this piece should look like:

In total, the outer perimeter is of 98 sts (98)

And this is how it should fit.

Add 6 sc off round. The last of these 6 is now the

Change color to jeans. Work:

Sew them or glue them on the body as in the

Go back to the round of FLs left, join the yarn right

Note that the arms are attached over the neckline!

Join the brown yarn on the first ch of R1.

Row8: 1 sc, work FLO: 31 sc, 1 sl (33), no tch,

Work Rows 11 to 17 on the other half, specularly.

Now work on the sideburns.

To make this correctly, flip the ears so that the

The ears should be positioned very close to the