KNITS

NON-LEATHER STUDIES & PROCESS I

GROUP MEMBERS:
Aakankshi
Rimali
 What is knit ?
Knit refers to a type of fabric construction created by interlocking loops of yarn.

It is a method of fabric production where needles are used to manipulate yarn into a series
of interconnected loops, forming a stretchable and flexible textile.

elasticity breathability drape

 Origin of Knitting
Knitting is believed to be originated in the Middle East, and is recognized as the youngest craft among spinning and
weaving.
The Historian Richard Rutt suggested that knitting originated in Egypt between 500 and 1200 A.D..

white and indigo cotton

It was found that a technique called Nalbinding which was a knotless fabric creation predates knitting.
It was done using a single needle to knot and merge fabrics together, whereas knitting uses a pair of needles. It was
practiced by the Coptic Christians in Egypt during the 4th century to create a pair of Coptic socks – a roughly shaped
garment to fit the foot for thongs or sandals.
 Medieval Europe
From the Arabs, the art of knitting was introduced in Spain. It was used by the Catholic church in creating their liturgical
garments and accessories.
Among the earliest knitted masterpieces were two Arab-knit silk pillows that was found in the royal tombs of a
monastery in northern Spain, dated in the 11th century.

Several paintings were made in the 1350’s that portray Mary, the mother of Jesus, while she was knitting. It was called
‘The Knitting Madonnas’. One of these paintings is Madonna of Humility by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, showing Mary seated
on the floor, knitting. Eventually knitting was widespread in Europe in 14th century.
 Industrial revolution
The Industrial Revolution in the 18th and 19th centuries brought significant changes to the knitting industry.
Knitting machines were invented, mechanizing the process of fabric production and increasing efficiency. Mass-
produced knitted textiles became more accessible and affordable.

Knitting played a vital role during times of war, particularly during World War I and World War II. Women on the
home front were encouraged to knit socks, scarves, and other garments for soldiers serving overseas.

It was discovered in 1942 that spies were known to work code messages into knitting, embroidery, rugs, etc.
 Types of knit

Knit fabrics come in various styles, each with its unique characteristics.

1. Jersey Knit: This is the most well-known and widely used knit fabric. It's lightweight, comfortable, and has a
smooth surface. You'll find jersey knit in T-shirts, dresses, and casual wear.

2. Elastane (Spandex/Lycra): Elastane is soft like cotton but can be challenging to work with. It provides excellent
stretch, making it ideal for activewear, swimwear, and form-fitting garments.

jersey ribbed knit cotton elastane

 3. Rib Knit: Rib knits have raised vertical lines (ribs) on both sides. They are stretchy and often used for cuffs,
collars, and waistbands. Rib knit adds texture to clothing items.

4. Interlock Knit: Interlock is a double-knit fabric with a smooth surface on both sides. It's thicker than jersey knit and
offers good stretch. Commonly used for baby clothes and loungewear.

5. French Terry: French terry has a looped, soft texture on the inside and a smooth surface on the outside. It's
comfortable and often used for sweatshirts, hoodies, and athleisure wear.

6. Fleece: Fleece is warm, soft, and cozy. It's commonly used for jackets, blankets, and winter clothing. Polar fleece
is a popular variant.

Rib knit Interlock knit French terry Fleece

 Knitted Structure
Knitting forming yarn(s) into loops and inter-meshing the loops into a structure.
The knitted structure consists of inter-meshed loops of filaments.

Knitting is the simplest and most productive method of forming narrow fabrics. Knitting is faster than braiding and does
NOT require the use of special yarn packages as do weaving, braiding and twisting. This eliminates the need to re-spool
the yarn or wire onto special packages thereby reducing the total production time of the material.

PROPERTIES OF THE KNITTED STRUCTURE:

A. Stretch - Elongation
Because of their inherent inter-meshed loop structure, knits are highly elastic especially along the vertical axis. The
elasticity of the loops allows knits to be softer and thus more comfortable, an important consideration when using them
in apparel products. In applications where stretch must be controlled or reduced, there are several techniques available
to reduce the elongation of a knitted material.

B. Resiliency
Knit materials are more resilient than other textile structures in that they can be bent or curved around a surface without
being distorted. This property makes knitted materials ideal for use in gasketing products.
 Knitted Structure
C. Porosity
Knit materials are also more porous than other textile structures. Although a material knit at a high “stitch density” can
appear to be opaque, it would be possible for a gas or liquid to penetrate it. This same characteristic, however, makes
knits ideal in applications where filtration and absorption properties are required.

D. Stability
Depending on the type of knit structure, some knit materials can be unraveled from the ends. However, when cut along
the vertical axis, a knit is more stable than a woven or braided material.

E. Types of fibers that can be knit

An old rule in knitting was that knitting required a relatively fine, smooth, strong yarn with good elastic recovery
properties. Today, that rule no longer applies as all types of fibers and materials have been knit into textile structures
including fiberglass, Kevlar, and wire as thick as .015-inch in diameter. On some machines, wire can be knit at the rate of
4 to 6 feet per minute.
 Basic Knitted structure

WEFT KNITTING & WARP KNITTING

WEFT and WARP are the two basic types of knitted structures, and all knit materials can be classified as one of these
types or variations thereof. Each has individual characteristics that determine which is best for a specific application.
WEFT or WARP knitting machines can be either flat or circular, single or double needle bed type. Multi-feed machines
can be either WEFT or WARP, but only a WEFT machine can be offered as a single feed unit.

Weft Knit – Knit structure produced when each yarn is presented in succession to every needle in the needle bed. In weft
knitted loops, yarns freely flow horizontally from one loop to another - allowing a loop to distort easily if tension is
increased on the material. This aids the form fitting and elastic recovery properties of weft knits. A weft knit produces
structures where the loops are in straight wales, resulting in a smoother and tighter knit material. This is more difficult to
achieve with warp knits.

Warp Knit - Structure produced when each yarn is presented simultaneously to just some of the needles. Warp knitted
yarns tend to have a somewhat vertical path through the material. This orientation reduces stretch along the vertical axis
of the material. In addition, the interlocking of two different threads on a single needle in successive courses makes warp
knits less likely to fray or unravel.
Basic Knitted structure
 Basic Knitted structure

KNIT CONSTRUCTIONS

There are two basic types of knitted structures, WEFT or WARP. All knitted materials, whether flat or tubular, can be
classified as either a WEFT knit or a WARP knit. Within these two categories, there are several types of knit constructions.

A. Plain Knit - Material produced by a single set of needles. Other names for this type include single jersey, stockinet,
shaker stitch and cable knit.

B. Rib Knit – Material produced by two sets of needles. Other types of knit structures include sinker top, fleece, interlock
and purl stitches. Due to the size limitations of small diameter circular machines, they cannot be used to knit materials
incorporating these types of structures.
 Design Color & Texture

Knitted fabrics offer a delightful array of designs, colors, and textures.

1. Jersey Knit Texture:
- Description: Jersey knit, known for its smooth surface, is commonly used in T-shirts
and casual wear.
- Colors: It comes in a wide range of colors, from classic neutrals to vibrant hues.
- Texture: The texture is soft, lightweight, and comfortable.
 2. Rib Knit Texture:
- Description: Rib knits have raised vertical lines (ribs) on both sides, adding texture.
- Colors: Rib fabrics often come in solid colors or subtle stripes.
- Texture: The ribbed texture provides stretch and structure.

3. French Terry Texture:

- Description French terry has a looped, soft texture on the inside and a smooth surface on the outside
- Colors: It's available in various colors, including heathered tones.
- Texture: Cozy and perfect for sweatshirts and hoodies.
4. Colorful Knitted Patterns:
- Description: Some knitted fabrics feature intricate patterns created by combining different colored yarns.
- Colors: These patterns can include bold contrasts or subtle gradients.
- Texture: The texture varies based on the stitch pattern used.
 Tools & Machinery

1. Knitting Needles:
- Straight Needles: Recognizable needles in various sizes, ideal for flat knitting (e.g., scarves, blankets).
- Double-Pointed Needles: Used for knitting in the round (e.g., socks, mittens, hats).
- Circular Needles: Great for circular pieces (e.g., sweater sleeves, socks) with two needles attached to a
cable.
- Interchangeable Needles: A set of circular needle tips with interchangeable cords for versatility.

2. Yarn:
- Worsted Weight Yarn: Acrylic yarn is excellent for beginners due to its affordability.
- Indie Dyed Yarn: Beautiful hand-dyed options (may cost more than commercial brands).
- Test yarn quality and softness at your local yarn shop.

3. Stitch Markers:
- Locking stitch markers help mark your place in patterns, especially when knitting in the round.
4. Scissors

5. Yarn Winder & Swift:

- These tools help wind yarn into neat skeins and prevent tangles.

6. Blocking Mats & Wires:

- Essential for blocking finished projects to shape and size.

7. Knitting Machines:
- Manual Knitting Machines: Hand-operated machines for creating knitted fabric.
- Loom Knitting Kits: Spool knitters and loom machines for DIY projects like hats and scarves.
 Brands that use knitted fabric

1. Siyaram Silk Mill: Siyaram's is a leading Indian blended fabric and garment manufacturer. They offer high-quality
fabrics, including wool, cotton, polyester blends, and linen. Siyaram's fabrics are pre-washed, sanforized, and known for
their durability and crease resistance.

2. Raymond: Raymond Group, established in 1925, is renowned for its quality fabrics. They produce wool and wool-
blended fabrics, denim, cosmetics, garments, and designer wear. With over 700 shops in India and a global presence,
Raymond focuses on quality and innovation.
 3. Arvind Limited: Arvind, India's largest denim producer, specializes in denim, knits, cotton shirting, and khaki fabrics.
Their unstitched fabrics cater to various clothing needs, from formal to casual and ethnic wear.

4. Reliance Trends: Reliance Trends is a popular retail brand in India that offers a wide range of clothing, including
knitted fabrics.

5. Fabindia: Fabindia is known for its sustainable and handcrafted textiles. While they primarily focus on woven fabrics,
they also incorporate knitted fabrics in some of their designs.