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 A Comprehensive Owners Guide by Maitland Sinclair

(Edited by Glenn Livin~slon. Ph.D.)

Copyright 200~ Psy Tech Inc. All Rights Reserved

DISCLAIMER: For education only. Not to be used in lieu of

advice from a licensed veterinarian and/or medical professional.

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 Introduction

Rabbits as pets are quickly becoming as popular as dogs and cats. Whereas rabbits

once used to be considered a "child's" pet, more and more adults-with and without

children-are discovering the joys of having a pet bunny.

With time, patience, and plenty of love, a bunny can easily become your best

friend. There is no pet quite like a rabbit. An infusion of enthusiasm, personality and

spirit is immediately available at your local animal shelter or rabbit rescue! And, once

you adopt a rabbit, you're likely to become hooked on bunnies for life.

There's nothing quite like sharing your home and your heart with a rabbit. and it's

a joy more and more people are discovering. Rabbits are quiet, clean animals, and

thousands upon thousands are in need of a permanent home.

Rabbits are also highly intelligent, inquisitive, fun, adorable animals, each with

their own unique traits and personality. Rabbits have emotions just like people: they'll

binky or flop when they're happy; they can become depressed; they can become afraid,

and they always know when it's treat time. It's easy to fall in love with a bunny, and after

you have a bunny companion (or two, or three), you'll wonder how you ever lived

without knowing the special joy it brings.

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 Bringing a bunny home requires a serious commitment and a certain level of

knowledge to ensure everyone has a happy, healthy time together. The following book

will give you a solid foundation about house rabbits-you'll learn everything from proper

diet to pertinent health issues-and what to expect if you decide to adopt one. There are

a plethora of links to give you even further insight into the wonderful world of rabbits.

The key to being a good bunny mom or dad is to arm yourself with knowledge

before you bring your first bunny home. But take heart - there's even more to learn

AFTER you have a bunny - and we'll be sure to cover every last bit of it!

Welcome to the wonderful world ofbunnies!

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 A VERY IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT THE TONE OF THIS BOOK

As you read through this book, you may say to yourself"my goodness, 1 didn't know
so many things could pose a danger to a bunny's life". The thing is though, that the
very quality which makes bunnies so cute also makes them vulnerable _ they are
delicate little creatures who need protecting!

The majority of this book then is oriented to teaching you how to protect your little
bunny. At first, all the possible pitfalls may seem overwhelming _ rest assured they
are easily mastered with only a little study.

Owning a bunny can be a wonderful, life enriching experience when one is willing to
adopt the role of a loving protector. This is the spirit in which we write.

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 Where To Get A Bunny

Now that you've decided to bring a bunny (or two) into your home, you have to

decide where to find the perfect bunny for you. There are thousands of homeless bunnies

in animal shelters and rabbit rescues across the country- indeed around the world-just

waiting for a permanent home and someone to love them. Many at high-kill shelters are

living on borrowed time. It's a heart-breaking fact that more than one million healthy,

happy, vibrant bunnies-who would make loving, darling companions-are put to sleep

every year.

Why adopt from an animal shelter or a rescue? It's simple. You'll be saving a life.

There are many reasons rabbits are surrendered. Just like dogs and cats, there are bunnies

who have been abused and mistreated. These bunnies need patience and understanding to

help them learn to trust humans and believe in the good of life again - but anyone who's

dealt with an abused animal knows there is no greater feeling than helping to restore trust

and vibrancy to a little critter with a loving heart.

Why are there so many bunnies available in shelters? Well, often the novelty of

a pet rabbit wears off because the owners weren't properly informed or educated before

bringing her into their homes. Many so-called Easter bunnies are dumped after the

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 excitement wears off and reality sets in. Check your local shelter several months after

Easter, and you'll likely see an influx in rabbits, most of whom are Easter dumps.

Most of the bunnies in shelters are between the age of six months and one year-

the dreaded teenage years for bunnies, the peak of sexual maturity. There is nothing

wrong with these bunnies at all; they're just nonnal teenagers with racing hormones, and

will calm down quickly in a matter of months.

Other shelter bunnies have aggression problems which can be easily cured by

spaying or neutering.

Regardless of why their owners surrendered them, shelter bunnies deserve a

second chance at life. Please consider adopting a shelter or rescue rabbit before going to

a pet store or a breeder.

Besides the fact that you'll be saving a precious life, there are other reasons to

adopt from a shelter or rabbit rescue. For examplc, though you will not always know the

bunny's exact age (there is no scientific means of determining a bunny's age) or past

history, you WILL have a very good idea of her temperament and the diet which works

best for her. With rescuers and shelters, you can also generally call and ask for any

advice or help you may need long after adopting a bunny. The motive of the shelter is to

see the bunnies well cared for - as compared to the pet store which wants to sell you

products.

For adoptable rabbits around the United States, check out

• www.petfinder.org (US & Canada)

• www.rabbit.org (US)

• http://www.h4ha.org/wpa/

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 • http://www.pets911.com/index.php

• http://www.bunnymagic.org/adoptables.htm

• http://www.friendsofrabbits.org/adoptladoptlist.htm

You can, of course, also find rabbits at pet stores and with rabbit breeders. However,

most rabbit experts and activists believe it's best to steer clear of these, as both pet stores

and breeders are adding to the gross overpopulation problem. (The same problem which

causes a million bunnies to be put to sleep each and every year).

Despite this, many people will still buy their bunnies at pet stores and through

breeders ... so if you DO decide to go this route, you should be aware of several things:

SHOULD YOU BUY YOUR BUNNY FROM A PET STORE?

It has been reported that approximately 80 percent of the bunnies brought

home from a pet store die within the first week due to health problems.
Be sure to review these facts before buying:

Weaning Age: a baby bunny should not be separated from her mother until she is
at least eight weeks old. Many pet stores sell baby bunnies who have been taken from
their mothers too soon. This can lead to serious health problems.

Breeding Location: Just as there are "puppy mills" in which dogs are grossly over-
bred, there are "bunny mills" in which rabbits suffer the same fate. Many times these
rabbits do not receive the proper medical attention, nor are they taken care of properly. If
you decide to purchase from a pet store, talk to a sales associate or a manager and find
out where the rabbits were bred.

Gender: At least half of all bunnies sexed at pet stores have been incorrectly identified.
That means there's a 50/50 chance your little boy is really a little girl. (And she could be
pregnant too!)

Diet: If you do purchase from a pet store, read about the proper diet and care for rabbits
first. Generally a sales associate at the pet store is going to steer you toward buying
products, rather than what is necessary and proper for your bunny to live a happy,
healthy life.

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 For a bunny lover, going into a pet store and seeing baby bunnies can be a heart-

wrenching experience. Most bunnies lovers have to face the dilemma of purchasing from

a pet store-helping to save a small bunny living in sometimes inadequate conditions-or

adopting a shelter bunny, who is in danger of being put to sleep. Most believe that taking

a stand against buying pet store bunnies will one day convince pet stores to stop selling

rabbits.

Your third option for finding a rabbit is going to a breeder. There are many

breeders of rabbits, and you'll want to make sure you find a reputable one. Again, many

rabbit activists put blame on breeders for the overpopulation problem.

If you're going to purchase a rabbit from a breeder, you want to ensure the area

where the bunnies are kept is clean. This is a reasonably good clue that the rabbits may be

well cared for and healthy.

Breeders usually do not offer a health guarantee on rabbits, but you want to make

sure you the breeder will accept phone calls should you have any questions or concerns

after bringing the bunny home. You'll also want to make sure both of the bunny's parents

were healthy, and ask the breeder about the bunny's own health.

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 If You're Trying To Find A Home For A Bunny You Can No Longer Care For:

Hopefully you'll never be in this position ... but in the event you need to find a home for
your bunny, please keep this in mind ...

Putting an ad in the paper advertising "Free to a good home" might not be as good an
idea as it seems at first, because many people feed bunnies to their pet snakes, and there
are still others who want rabbits to do experiments. If you do put an ad in the paper,
make sure you screen all potential adopters. Set an adoption fee, and ask for references.

You may also want to contact your local House Rabbit Society or rabbit rescue and ask
if they take surrendered bunnies. If they don't, they should be able to direct you to a
group or shelter that does.

If you decide to take your bunny to an animal shelter, please try to find a no-kill shelter
or a low-kill shelter. This isn't always possible. However, please try to make the high-
kill shelter your last resort as your bunny will only have a certain amount of time to find
a home before being put to sleep.

Now that you know where to get your bunny, let me leave you with a few

additional considerations before you bring her home.

First, a word on allergies. If you are allergic to cats or dogs, you MA Y OR MA Y

NOT be allergic to rabbits. Some people who are allergic to long fur dogs are perfectly

fine with rabbits and vice-versa. It's probably best to discuss your allergy concerns with

your doctor before you decide to adopt a bunny-for both your sake and the bunny's

sake. An important consideration is that bunnies need to have unlimited access to HA Y,

and some people are allergic to hay. You should also ask your doctor about having hay in

your house.

Finally, before getting a bunny if you have children, it's important to evaluate

exactly what role they will be capable of playing with your new pet - and to be aware of

the limitations. We have devoted the next section entirely to this important topic.

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 Rabbits and Children

Inevitably, every Easter thousands of children will beg their parents for a "real"

Easter bunny. Sadly, after the novelty of having a cute, cuddly rabbit wears off, the

majority of those Easter presents will be dumped in the wild, left to fend for

themselves-facing almost inevitable death from illness or predators--or left at a shelter.

Most of those bunnies will never make it to their first birthday. (In fact, the majority of

bunnies born every year never celebrate their first birthday.) Approximately one million

bunnies are euthanized every year, and hundreds of thousands more perish after being

abandoned in the wild.

Bunnies CAN be a good pet for your child and add value to his or her life, but

really ONL Y under the following circumstances:

• You are prepared to take the time and have the patience to teach your child how to

properly treat and care for a bunny.

• You are willing to take care of the bunny if your child tires of her (or when your

child goes away to college).

• You, as a parent, are willing to assume the MAIN responsibility of rabbit

caregiver. In essence, the bunny is yours - your child gets the love and fun, but

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 you are willing to do the hard work. (Of course you can assign some

responsibilities to your child, but the point is, don't fall into the trap of expecting

your child to be able to regularly provide for the bunny's needs. It's great if they

can - but most don't!).

• You recognize and accept that adopting a bunny is a 10+ year commitment to not

only feed and water your bunny, but to ensure she gets enough love an attention.

(Bunnies need a lot of attention - something to carefully consider if you are short

on time).

• You are willing to educate yourself on the delights of having a house rabbit, so

you can give your bunny the best life possible.

• You AND the other adults in your household are excited to invite a bunny into

your lives.

If your situation doesn't permit you to take on the responsibilities above, it's

probably better to get you child a stuffed bunny instead.

If you DO bring a bunny into a home with children, there are several very important

things you must do to protect the bunny. While bunnies ARE very lovable and kissable

pets, ... contrary to popular belief, most bunnies don't like to be picked up or held. (A

special few bunnies are extremely mellow and don't mind being held, but this is not the

norm)

Also, bunnies are very delicate animals, and it's not uncommon for children and

rabbits to have accidents. lfa child hugs, squeezes or holds a bunny too tightly, she can

easily break the bunny's back. A child can also accident step on or sit on a bunny, either

breaking the bunny's back (rendering her paralyzed), or killing her.

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 However, if the bunny is yours, and you are prepared to take responsibility for her

no matter what, you'll find that having a bunny or two in your home with children can be

a rewarding, fun, educational experience for everyone involved.

IMPORTANT BUNNY LINK FOR HOUSEHOLDS WITH CHILDREN

The House Rabbit Society article http://www.rabbit.orglfag/sections/children.htmlis a

great resource for valuable tips on how to educate your children on living with a bunny.
A must read!

There are also a number of very popular myths about house rabbits which you

should know about '" the following article dispels them (you" II need to have Adobe

Acrobat to view this article. To download a free copy, go to: http://www.adobe.com):

http://www .ra bbit.org/adopt -a -rabb it-month/M yth FIyer2003. pd f.

Many believe New Zealand bunnies (the same that are sadly used for meat) are

one of the best first bunnies for children because of their gentle nature. However, rabbits

of all breeds have very individual personality differences - so it's better for you to spend

time at the shelter interacting with a number of different bunnies. (You might even

consider a few trips before making your decision).

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 Indoor Living

Now that rabbits are becoming more common in households, there is the obvious

debate of how a rabbit should be treated, and more specifically, where the bunny should

be housed. Most rabbit lovers insist the only way to properly house a rabbit is indoors

because the outdoors (as we'll discuss next) poses too many problems and hazards.

Rabbits are extremely social animals, and just like humans. they can become

depressed, too, if they don't get enough attention. Having an indoor bunny is the most

popular and safest way to care for a rabbit. and it's the best way to make your bunny a

real part of your family.

Any family with a bunny knows the extreme importance of bunny proofing.

Bunnies love to chew, and they're particularly fond of phone cords, computer wires and

Internet cables. (Bunnies also love to chew the buttons off of remote controls, and

phones. So, if you mind having half-chewed buttons. make sure to keep the remote and

phone out of bunny's reach.) Ask any bunny owner, and they'll probably tell you. no

matter how clever they were or how perfectly they bunny proofed. Thumper got to a

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 phone cord once or twice in her life. Not only can it be frustrating to have the phone line

go dead in the middle of a conversation (and it takes a minute to figure out why), but it's

dangerous for the bunny to chew live wires.

There's a simple fix though. In order to protect both your bunny and the wires in

your house, you can purchase plastic tubing from Home Depot or Lowe's. You can also

get spiral cable wrap from Radio Shack. Or, you can simply make sure all wires are out

of reach from your bunny.

Bunnies also love to chew the baseboard and the edges of doorways. You can try

spraying bitter apple-which you can buy at any pet store--{)n the enticing areas, but

you'll probably find that doesn't really deter your bunny. (Most bunnies aren't bothered

by the taste.) If you do try the bitter apple first and find this to be the case, you can use

Ivory Soap instead. Simply take a bar of Ivory Soap and rub it along the areas your bunny

likes to chew. Bunnies do not like the taste of Ivory. (Make sure you use only Ivory; it is

the only soap safe enough and won't hann your bunny.) The one thing to remember, if

you use Ivory, is you'll have to reapply after a few weeks (it wears out).

You might also want to get the plastic protectors that cover the baseboard and

corners-you can purchase these at any home improvement store for relatively low costs.

Bunnies love to chew wood, so you might find they want to gnaw at your table

legs, chairs or bookshelves. You can use Ivory on these as well. (Do you think the

makers oflvory had this in mind when they went into production?)

Many bunnies will also love chewing on your rugs. If your bunny is going to

have free run of the house, you really don't have many options to avoid this. However,

this is by no means a reason not to allow your bunny run time or to allow your bunny free

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range. The key to bunny destruction is to make sure your bunny has plenty of toys and

entertainment. The more they have to do, the less destructive they will be.

You'll also need to cover all of your unused electrical outlets (you can purchase

these at most home improvement stores). Bunnies are extremely curious, and you never

know what they can get themselves into, so it's always better to be safe than sorry.

Bunnies love to hide under beds and couches-that are high enough for them to

crawl under-and this will lead to adventure all of its own. The bunnies will then dig

their way into the underside of the bed or couch, curl up and go to sleep. At first, you

might think it's cute and a nice little hideaway for bunny. But, the bad news is when

bunnies snuggle away in the underside; they also tend to pee and poop.

In order to keep your bunny out, you can simply put a board around the base.

Some have also recommended a flat cardboard box. However, bunnies love to chew

cardboard, and they'll probably eventually chew their way through.

Finally, you need to keep your plants out of reach of the bunnies. Most are

poisonous to bunnies. Also, be careful if you hang your plants from the ceiling. If the

leaves fall, you'll need to make sure they are well out-of-reach of the bunny.

For a list of plants which are poisonous to rabbits, visit the Oregon Chapter of the

House Rabbit Society at http://www.adoptarabbit.com/articles/toxic.html.

What happens if your bunny eats a poisonous plant? You can call the ASPCA's

National Animal Control Poison Agency at 1-888-426-4435. The poison control center

will require you pay a fee on your credit card for their services. (Please note that we

make no money from this).

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 You can also visit the ASPCA's website and request a free Animal Control

Poison magnet at http://www.aspca.orglsite/PageServer?pagename=apcc.

If you plan to allow your bunny free-range, or even if you allow her only free run

time, you'll want to have a litter box or two available to her. Be forewarned, however,

that bunnies do have accidents, and your bunny may take a liking to a particular area. If

it's possible, put the litter box there.

[fyou have multiple bunnies who are given free run time in the house, beware of

the infamous bunny poop wars. Bunnies like to mark their territory, and they'll leave a

trail of pellets if they know another bunny has been in their area. (This should stop over

time, however, if you liller train your bunnies - more on that in a later section.)

Finally, if you wish to transition an outdoor bunny to your house, it's as simple as

bringing her inside. When a bunny is confined alone outdoors, she is unable to show her

true personality. When you bring her in the house, you'll discover how much fun she is

and how easily she adapts to her new, cozier surroundings.

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 Outdoor Living

For many rabbit lovers, outdoor living is a topic highly in debate. In fact, many

rabbit rescue organizations will not adopt bunnies to homes where they will live

outdoors. There are many reasons. House rabbits who live indoors can live up to 12

years. sometimes longer, while the average lifespan for an outdoor domesticated rabbit is

a mere two to three years.

Domesticated rabbits are not like wild rabbits, and they are not "made" for the

outdoors. Rabbits get frightened easily, and even a predator animal coming near her

hutch can literally scare her to death or cause her to have such a violent reaction of

thrashing that she breaks her back. There are also the dangers of !lies, maggots and other

insects. (More about this in the Health Section.)

Hutches are not I00 percent safe for a bunny. Predators-such as raccoons,

coyotes, dogs and others-ean still bend, break or even open the hutch doors to get to

your bunny. There are also human predators-ehildren who want to let the bunny loose

as a joke, and these bunnies often become food for snakes, or become frightened and

wander off. (Domesticated rabbits are unable to survive in the wild). There's no telling

whether someone will steal your bunny from her hutch and what fate she will face.

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 If your bunny lives outside, you'll have to take precautions to maintain the

appropriate temperature in her hutch during both the winter and the summer, because

both extreme cold and extreme heat can send rabbits into shock. (Approximately 55

degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal temperature for bunnies.) In winter especially, please be

sure you provide a warm space where your bunny can huddle to keep warm and protected

from the elements. For example, you can give her a cardboard box or a travel carrier

filled with clean straw-(changed daily)-in order to help her stay warm.

Finally, if your bunny has to be outdoors in winter, make sure you change her

water frequently. Water freezes quickly in winter, and your bunny needs constant access

to fresh drinking water.

In the summer, you'll need to be extremely careful of overheating. You can freeze

two-liter soda bottles filled with water and put them in her hutch, allowing her to lie next

to them to maintain the appropriate body temperature. In very high temperatures, you'll

need to change the bottle frequently and monitor your bunny closely. Another

consideration is extreme temperature CHANGE. Rabbit physiology doesn't adjust

quickly from very cold to warm, or from very warm to cold. So, for example, if you want

to transition your bunny from outdoors to indoors during the winter, take her into the

garage first (if you have one), or the basement, and allow her to get used to the slightly

warmer temperatures before moving her inside.

Because bunnies are very social animals, a solitary bunny living in an outdoor

hutch generally doesn't have the same kind of life as an indoor bunny. Outdoor rabbits

don't get as much attention, and this sometimes leaves them feeling depressed ('bunny

blues').

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 Outdoor bunnies are also more difficult to monitor for signs of health difficulties

- such as changes in their sleep, activity, and eating times and frequencies.

If your bunny must live outdoors, you're probably better off with 2 or more.

(Outdoor rabbits do much better with a companion to combat loneliness and depression).

The following articles emphasize the dangers of outdoor living:

• http://www.tagyerit.com/hopline/cold.htm

• http://www.rabbit.orglfag/sections/outdoors.htm I

• http://www.beal-net.com/laluna!outdoors.htm I

• http://www.rabbitrescue.com/outdoordangers.htm I

• http://www.allearssac.orglindoors.html

• http://home.kc.rr.com/jhabernaIlmohrskclhrswebpg20.html(A heartbreaking story

illustrating why your bunny should live indoors.)

• http://www.mybunny.org/infolhousebunny.htm

• http://www.hopperhome.comlhutchcrutch.htm

A less dangerous alternative if you can't have your bunny in the house is to set

her up in the garage or the basement, provided both have strong doors and sturdy locks.

Because most garages and basements have limited lighting (and bunny's can become

depressed in prolonged darkness), you may need to bring in an extra lamp or two. Of

course, no matter where your bunny lives, make sure you spent lots of time with her, and

make her surroundings comfortable and fun.

Another indoor/outdoor issue has to do with just letting bunnies to run around

outdoors only during the spring and summer months. While this eliminates the danger of

extreme cold, it unfortunately does not remove the danger of predators and fright.

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 (Bunnies really CAN become 'scared to death'). And there are also harmful bacteria and

poisonous plans your bunny can get her teeth on, not to mention accidentally chewing on

yard tools, tripping on sprinklers, toys or becoming entrapped in vines.

A less often quoted reason for not allowing your bunny alone outside in the yard

is that they LOVE to dig. They'll begin to dig holes in your yard, and eventually those

holes will either lead to your bunny's escape or your inability to catch her again when it's

time to go outside.

However, many people do take their bunnies outside, supervised, and allow them

to run around in the grass and play. The House Rabbit Society suggests, if you want to

allow your bunny some outside time, that you should set up a pen with four sides, a

bottom and a top, so predators cannot get to your bunny and so your bunny can't dig her

way out.

Some bunny owners have gone all out in making sure their yard is safe for their

bunnies, including having walls built around the yard to make it impossible for the

bunnies to dig out and places for the bunnies to hide when they get tired or want to be

alone. If you do decide to let your bunny run around, make sure you do not have your

grass sprayed with pesticides, and ask your neighbors if there's have been sprayed with

pesticides.

Of course, there are benefits to allowing your bunny to run around outside while

they ARE supervised. The vitamin D from the sun is good for them, and most bunnies

love to lie down and munch on the grass and dandelions in the yard.

Some people have even built their bunnies outdoor, daytime runs for the warm

months. You can read a great article that will give you step by step instructions for

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building your bunny her own daytime outdoor rabbit run at

http://www.rabbit.org/journal/l/rabbit-run.html.

Some rabbit owners will also swear their bunnies absolutely love to play in the

snow. This is fine provided you supervise your bunny and make sure she doesn't stay

outside too long.

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 Leashes and Harnesses

Using a leash or harness on a bunny is another highly debated subject amongst

long-time bunny owners and experts and for good reason. There have been many

accidental deaths as a result of a bunny on a leash or a harness. Because rabbits are prey

animals, they feel very confined and trapped when on a leash. If they become scared-

which is very easy with all the new sounds and sights outside-they can easily break

their necks, their backs or be frightened to death. You never know when a dog might

walk around the corner, scaring your rabbit and causing her to bolt.

Leashes that go around the neck are particularly dangerous as they can suffocate

your bunny if she pulls too hard.

You'll also want to consider the other dangers of taking your bunny for a walk on

a harness. Bunnies can contract diseases from other animals, and you never know what

they're going to sniff or get into when they're outside. You also have to be careful of

pesticides because you never know what has been sprayed and what hasn't. Pesticides

can kill your bunny.

If you do decide to use a leash or a harness, you should remember that walking a

bunny is nothing like walking a dog. Bunnies generally don't like to be followed, so

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being behind her when you walk might make her nervous. If she gets too scared, be sure

to take her inside right away.

To learn more about the pros and cons of putting a bunny on a harness or leash,

you can read a very heated debate from the Etherbun archives at

http://www.sonic.netl-snevelletherbun/msg85559.html.

In the end, it is ultimately your decision if you put your bunny on a harness or

leash. However, you should be fully aware of the dangers and realize most rabbit experts

vehemently oppose putting a rabbit on a harness or leash for any reason.

A safe alternative to a leash/harness is to buy or create an exercise pen outdoors

for your bunny, as discussed previously.

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 Cage and Environment
It's important you know where your bunny is going to live before you bring her

home, Will she have free run of your house 24 hours a day? (I f she is going to have free

run, you'll want to make sure that area is completely bunny-proofed - see previous

section. You may also want to wait to give her free run until she is litter trained and

adapted to her new home.) Will she need to be confined part of the day? If your bunny is

going to be confined for part of the day, you need to decide how you want to house her,

whether you want to confine her to a particular room in the house or give her a "cage."

Before we look at the different housing options, you should understand that the

more room your bunny has when she's confined, the better. You might think because a

particular bunny is a dwarf, she doesn't need as much room as a larger bunny. Not true.

Dwarfs have a lot of energy, and therefore, need plenty of room to move, roam and run.

The cages you see at pet stores claiming to be "for guinea pigs and dwarf rabbits" is

definitely too small for any rabbit, no matter what size.

Your bunny's housing will need plenty of room for a full-size litter box (consider

having two if you have two bunnies,) her hay box, her food bowl and either a water bowl

or a water bottle. In addition, you'll want to make sure your bunny has plenty of

entertainment, so she doesn't get bored when she's confined. (For an idea of the kind of

toys bunnies love, read the section "Exercise and Entertainment.") You want her to have

plenty of room-not just enough room to turn around. Make sure her cage is at least four

times her size.

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 There are many fun cage options your bunny will love: NlC condos and exercise

pens are the most popular housing for bunnies who don't have free reign. Other options

include large dog carriers, cages designed specifically for rabbits and hutches.

NIC Condos. NIC stands for Neat Idea Cubes. Neat Idea Cubes are wire flats

you can put together to make cubes and bunny condos. It's a wonderful alternative to a

cage, and it's much cheaper. For a picture of a bunny condo made from NIC cubes, check

ou t http://www.rabbil.org/rabbit-center/retaillcubesetL.jpg.

NIC condos are very easy to put together, but it is a very time consuming process.

(If you make one, let your bunny watch you. She'll love to sniff and investigate what

you're doing.) If you want to make a condo for your bunny, you first want to determine

how big you want it to be. How many floors? Let's say you decide to make a four-floor

condo for your bunny. Here's what you'll need to get started:

o You'll need packages of Neat Idea Cubes (assuming they come eight in a

package) because you'll need at least 47 pieces to build the condo. You can get

the Neat Idea Cubes from places like Target, Wal-Mart, Costco, and you can

check with Home Improvement and Lowe's.

o One package (you may find you need more) of cable ties.

o A pair of scissors

Here are several articles with step-by-step instructions on making your very own

NIC condo:

o http://www.valeehill.com/condo.html

o http://www.wisconsinhrs.org/Articles/Project%20NIC%20Bunny%20Condo.htm

o http://www .rabbi tnetwork.org/art icieslN IC .shtm I

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 • http://homepage.mac.com/mattocks/morfz/n ic. htm I

• http://www.bluebunnies.org/housing2.htm

• http://homepage.mac.com/mattocks/morfz/n ic. htm I.

Exercise pens are also another popular housing option for bunnies. and they're

easily transportable if you want to move the pen from room-to-room. You'll want to keep

all of the same things in your bunny's pen as you would in her condo. You can purchase

exercise pens from your local pet store or online. To see what a bunny pen looks like, go

to: http://www.bunnvbunchboutique.com/living.html.

Large dog carriers are another alternative for your bunny. Dog carriers

obviously do not offer as much room as a condo or an exercise pen, but they are an

option if you have limited space. You can easily attach a water bottle to the front door,

and a small to medium-size litter box will fit in the corner of the carrier. Keep plenty in

the carrier for your bunny to do when she's confined.

Dog carriers are easy to transport from room-to-room, and they are also easy to

clean. You simply need a brush and scoop, and you'll be able to pick up the dropped hay

and deposits that were left on the floor instead of the litter box.

Bunny cages are now probably the least popular way-along with hutches-to

house today's house bunnies. Hutches are generally used to house buns who live outdoors

while cages are used for indoor bunnies.

There are some things you'll want to look out for when you're shopping for a

cage. First, the absolute minimum size you want to consider is 30" wide, 36" long and

IS" high. You need to make sure your bunny can lay completely stretched out in her cage

after all of her necessities and toys have been put in.

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 It's also important that your bunny's cage does not have wire flooring. Your

bunny's feet were not made to stand on wire, and therefore, they can develop painful sore

hocks. (Rabbits' feet are not padded like a dog's feet.) If you must have a cage that has

wire flooring, be sure to provide your bunny with a rug or a mat, so she has somewhere

comfortable to sit and stand.

What do you use for bedding? Actually, contrary to popular belief, most people

don't use bedding. Instead, they give their bunnies a bunny bed, a mat or someplace soft

to lie on in their cage. If you do decide you want to use some type of bedding, be

absolutely certain you DO NOT use cedar or pine shavings. Both are proven to cause

respiratory and liver damage. Instead, line your bunny's cage with newspaper. This is a

much safer-and even cleaner-alternative.

Rabbits are naturally clean animals, and they generally don't tend to soil their

surroundings. Thus, they tend to be very good at using their litter boxes. You can keep

your bunny's cage fresh smelling by changing the litter box every day.

You'll also want to clean the actual litter box after emptying it. You don't have to

do this everyday, only as needed (you'll be able to tell). To clean the litter box and keep it

fresh smelling, use a spray bottle of white vinegar. White vinegar won't harm your

bunny, and it will leave her cage smelling delightfully clean.

You might notice your bunny has begun chewing on her cage. This could be for a

number of reasons. First. she may be bored from having nothing to chew in her cage, so

her only alternative is to chew the wires. She may also be showing you she wants to come

out and run around. It could also be something totally unrelated, especially if your bunny

is a rescue and you know little about her past.

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 The key to keeping your bunny happy while she is confined is to make her

surroundings as comfortable and as fun as possible. The next section will tell you how to

make sure your bunny is content-both in her house and while she has free run.

To get a better idea of the many housing options available for your bun, check out

the following links:

• http://www.rabbit.orglchapters/san-diego/adoptionlCages/cage.html

• http://www.leithpetwerks.coml

• http://www.kwcages.comlcondo.html

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 Exercise and Entertainment

Rabbits are inquisitive, intelligent, fun-loving creatures who need plenty to keep

them busy. Keeping your bunny entertained will reduce destructive chewing and

nipping. If you have a penned or caged bunny, she should get at least four hours of run-

time a day. lfyou can't allow your bunny free-range in the house or a rabbit proofed

room, exercise will help her adapt nicely to the cage or pen.

There are plenty of ways to keep your bunny entertained and happy. And, you'll

be surprised at how happy and entertained YOU are when your bunny is playing and

enjoy herself.

First things first. How do you know when your bunny is happy? Bunnies love to

show it! If your bunny flops on her side and just lies there with her eyes closed, you'll

know all is right with her world. She might scare you the first time she does this, and it's

not uncommon for a new bunny owner to think something is wrong. Don't worry. Your

bunny is just telling you she's happy. It's the happy flop.

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 The Happ}' Bunny Flop

Then there's the binky. If your bunny binkies. you know she's on top of the

world. Binkies are crazy happy dances. Your bunny will hop in the air. twirl her head

and spin around then maybe start running at top speed. Any bunny owner will attest to

the great joy it brings to see their bun or buns do the binky dance.

Now. how to keep your bunny content? First and foremost is attending to her

chewing needs. Bunnies absolutely love to chew, Phone books are popular with bunnies

who love to shred the pages. so make sure you keep all of your old phone books (you

might even ask your friends and family for theirs.) A bunny can go through a phone book

pretty quickly.

Toilet paper and paper towel rolls are also safe and popular chew toys for

bunnies. To make it even more fun, you can take a roll and stuff hay inside for them to

dig out.

Boxes and paper bags are also a great source of entertainment for bunnies. You

can fill the paper bag with hay. or just put an open paper bag on the floor for the bunnies

to crawl into and dig. You'll be surprised at how long they can entertain themselves by

playing with the bag.

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 Cardboard boxes are also an incredibly easy source of entertainment. Take a fairly

large box and cut several doorways and windows into it. (Bunnies always prefer to have

at least two entrances.) Your bunny will love to go in and dig, chew (making the

doorways or windows bigger) and hide away. It's also a great place to put your bunny's

hay-which she can eat as well as dig. You can also securely tape a bunch of cardboard

boxes together, so the bunnies can run through them and play.

Use your imagination and creativity, and you'll find there are endless ways to turn

everyday cardboard boxes into a playground for your bunnies.

Empty pasta and cracker boxes make great things to chew on, or you can fill them

with hay for your bunny to dig out. If you do use something like an empty spaghetti box

and it has a hole in the middle with plastic covered over it, make sure you rip off the

plastic and rip the hole apart. Your curious bunny might just stick her head in the hole

and get it stuck; it's been known to happen more than once.

Bunnies probably love digging as much as they love chewing. Bunnies are

diggers by nature, so allowing them a safe way to dig will help keep them happy and

away from digging things they shouldn't.

So, if you have an old towel, blanket or sheet for your bunny, you can just put it

on the floor, and watch them go. Some bunnies will dig, bunch up, then smooth out the

blanket for hours. You can also nudge the blanket somewhere, allowing your bunny to

dig it out. It's important that you don't leave your bunny alone with the blanket or towel

because there is the possibility she could chew a hole in it, poke her head through and get

it caught (she could suffocate).

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 Another great homemade toy is to take a cardboard box or an untreated wicker

basket and fill it with shredded newspaper, straw or a pile of magazines, and let bunny

dig away.

Baby toys-such as plastic keys and raules-are also popular with bunnies who

love to throw them around. You just want to make sure you don't get teething rings.

Because bunnies like to toss things, you might notice if you leave your house keys lying

around, your bunny will pick them up and toss them to the side. Bunnies also love

throwing remote controls from couches and chairs.

Here's another interesting idea for a bunny toy: dog trainers have often suggested,

in order to keep a dog away from somewhere they're not supposed to be, owners should

take an empty soda can, drop a few coins inside and tape the top. This works not only to

deter dogs, but it's also a great bunny toy. Your bunny might be like others and love to

toss the can aside, enjoying the sound of the coins clicking together.

For store bought tossing toys, you can try some of the cat toys and even parrot

toys found in pet stores. Bunnies love to climb, so you can put boxes together for them to

climb on or even purchase a cat condo.

Some bunnies also enjoy playing with the popular plastic slinkies. They'll pick

them up in their mouths and let them roll around. However, there are some bunnies who

are afraid of slinkies and will run the other way at the sight of one. If your bunny is

afraid of the slinky at first, just leave it there for her to examine.

If you leave a straw broom within bunny's reach, you'll probably notice teeth

marks in the wooden handle and missing pieces of the whisk. So, you might want to get

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your bunny a broom of her own, so you don't discover a half-chewed broom next time

you go to use yours.

Other great ideas for entertaining bunny:

• Give her pinecones (make sure they're dried out.)

• Buy a rubber ball, and watch her nudge it around the room.

• Cardboard tubes (make sure they are big enough, so your bunny doesn't get

stuck.)

• You can give her the kitty balls with bells inside. If you get her these, make sure

she doesn't chew the plastic and swallow the little ball.

• Because bunnies love to climb, you might want to consider getting a kitty condo

or even a child's jungle gym from a toy store.

There are plenty of ways to keep your bunny entertained and happy both in and

outside of her cage or pen. You can also find great bunny toys for purchase at:

• http://www.busybunny.com/

• http://www.bunnyluv.com/

• http://www.bunnybytes.com/

• http://www.busypettoys.com/rabbits.htm

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 Having Multiple Rabbits

You've adopted Thumper and are completely thrilled with her. She makes you

laugh when she binkies. She cozies up to you when you're lying on the floor reading, and

you love being a bunny mom or dad. But, you wonder, is she lonely when you're not at

home with her? If your bunny is going to be alone for eight hours or more a day, you

should give serious consideration to adopting her a friend.

It's a simple fact that some rabbits have the perfect personality for bonding with

another rabbit, and some bunnies just have to be single buns. A single bunny, who is

spoiled and lavished with love and attention, can be just as happy as a bunny who is

bonded with another bunny (who are both spoiled and lavished with attention by their

devoted bunny owners.) Many bunny experts will argue, however, that all bunnies are

happiest when they have both a bunny and a human companion.

It is extremely important that before you get your bunny a companion you have

her spayed or him neutered. Both rabbits should be altered, and it's best to wait until two

weeks after the operation to introduce your rabbit to a new friend. This time period will

allow your bunny to fully recover from her surgery. [fyou have a male bunny, it will also

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give his body time to be rid of its hormones. (For up to two weeks after neutering, males

are able to impregnate fertile females.)

Or, you might want two bunnies right from the start. You can find many already

bonded pairs at shelters and rescues - you won't have to worry about the process of

helping them bond. (You may find bonded trios for adoption as well.)

But let's start our discussion on multiple rabbits by dispelling some myths. While

it is true same sex pairs generally don't tend to get along very well upon first meeting,

that doesn't mean it is impossible to bond two girls or two boys. It is possible if you have

patience and understanding of the bonding process. It's also possible to bond a tiny

dwarf bunny with a larger rabbit. The size is not the dominant factor.

Before you can even begin the bonding process, you first must find a suitable

companion for your bunny. Ideally, you should take your bunny to an animal shelter or

local rabbit rescue where your bunny can go on "dates" with several single bunnies. It's

not uncommon for domesticated rabbits to not know how to socialize with other rabbits.

They've either been in a cage alone their whole lives or surrounded by humans. It takes

time for them to understand how to relate to each other.

What can you expect from these "dates?" Well, if you're lucky, your bunny might

discover love at first sight. You can be sure the two are in love when they nuzzle nose-to-

nose or begin to groom each other.

Not all bunny dates are love at first sight, so it's important to have an idea of what

to expect. First, you shouldn't be surprised if one bunny mounts the other bunny. This is

more of a sign of dominance than anything else. It's the bunny saying, "I want to be top

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dog." So, don't be surprised if your little girl mounts the boy she's meeting; she'sjust

setting some ground rules for what she expects from him.

If the boy mounts the girl, and she doesn't react, that's a good sign that the

bonding should go fairly smoothly. Ifshe runs away when he tries to mount her, don't

worry. The way to know you're going to have to take time and have patience with the

bonding is if the girltums around and tries to attack or becomes in any way aggressive

when the boy tries to mount her.

Another common reaction upon first introductions is one the chase. (One bunny

chases the other). This is perfectly fine, if the chased bunny doesn't turn around and fight

back. If the chased bunny does fight back, separate the two bunnies and realize the

bonding process is going to have to move more slowly than you had hoped for.

In fact, don't be surprised if there are lights during the bonding process. It's not

the end. It just means you should be prepared to take things slow. There's bound to be

some scrapes between bunnies, and this is normal. You can stop a fight by yelling "no" or

by making a loud noise.

It's also a good idea to have a spray bottle filled with water on hand during each

introduction. If the bunnies start fighting, spray them on the nose. The bunnies will

generally stop to clean themselves off, giving both of them-and you-a break from the

stress of getting to know each other.

Make sure you always intervene in a fight before it gets too serious. Bunnies can

injure each other seriously enough to require veterinary care. After you separate the

bunnies, make sure to confine them to different spaces. You can put their cages, pens or

36
condos side-by-side, so they can see each other but not get to each other. In fact, during

the whole bonding process, be sure to keep them in their spaces side-by-side.

Bunnies are very territorial animals. You need to be aware of this before you

bring another bunny home. Make sure you always introduce two bunnies in neutral

territory. Never, ever introduce a new bunny in your present bunny's cage or an area

where her scent is. Instead, introduce the bunnies in the bathtub or in a room where your

bunny has never been (or rarely goes).

A great way to get your bunnies to start the bond is to take them for a drive in the

car. You can put your bunnies together in their carrier-----or even a tight fitting box (minus

the lid}-and just go for a long drive. Before long, you'll notice your two bunnies have

huddled together for safety and comfort in this unknown situation. Some bunny experts

suggest taking 20-minute drives every other day, but the length is up to you. Some

bunnies have become bonded after four or five hours in the backseat of the car. (If you do

take your bunnies for a long drive, make sure they have plenty of fresh hay and access to

water.)

Many people have more than two bunnies in their homes: perhaps two or three

bonded PAIRS of rabbits. In these situations, it's often more than one can hope for to ask

EVERYONE to bond together. Instead, expect small 'tribes', who may define distinct

territories and fight for them when challenged. (Again, you'll need to supervise this

closely).

When you have a pair of bonded bunnies, you and one half of the pair will

inevitably have to face the loss of the other half. While losing a bunny will be a very

37
difficult tragedy for you, you'll find that it is just as hard-if not harder-on the

remaining mate.

If at all possible, when one bunny in a bonded pair passes on, allow his mate to

spend a few hours with the body. This will allow the mate to walk around the bunny,

sniff and begin to understand that she is no longer there. In the end, your bunny will be

able to mourn her partner's death more quickly.

However, this isn't always possible, and your bunny will likely become confused,

hopping around aimlessly, looking for her mate, waiting for him to come home. It will

take time for her to realize her mate isn't coming home.

Don't be surprised if your bunny shows anger at you. Bunnies show their grief in

a variety of ways including aggressiveness toward their owner, beginning to chew the

carpet, or other destructive patterns. They may also change their eating or drinking habits.

This is a particularly important time to supervise your bunny's food and water intake (to

avoid stasis).

Bunnies, like humans, become depressed when faced with loss. Watching a bunny

grieve and look for her mate is heartbreaking, but it's important you spend a lot of time

with the remaining bunny and shower her with lots of love and affection. She's confused,

sad and angry, and you probably feel just as bad as she does. A new bond will be born

during your grieving process together.

You'll also want to consider getting a new bunny for the remaining bunny. One

way to find out if the time is right for your bunny to find a new mate-is to take her on a

few "dates" at a shelter or a rescue. You'll be able to gauge by her responses whether she

is ready and willing to accept a new mate. If she greets all potential new friends with

38
hostility then you'll know now probably isn't the right time because your bunny is still

grieving and still thinks her friend is going to come home.

Bunnies and other animals

Can your bunny or bunnies get along with other animals? The answer is a

resounding "yes," depending on your bunny's personality. Bunnies have become friends

with guinea pigs, dogs, cats and even birds. (Some families have birds who will fly down

and eat greens with the family bunnies.) The key is to know how to effectively introduce

your bunny to a new friend of a different species.

Bunnies and guinea pigs can become the best offriends. In fact, you might be

surprised to discover some single rabbits match up quite well with the single guinea pig

at animal shelters.

Bunnies and guinea pigs are very similar, so perhaps that's one reason they tend

to get along so well. They share a very similar diet, with the exception that the guinea pig

requires a Vitamin C supplement (he is unable to manufacture Vitamin C himself). To

ensure the guinea pig gets the proper Vitamin C allowance, you can give him oranges.

It's fine for your bunny to share in her friend's oranges, but be careful she doesn't eat too

much. (For a more comprehensive guide to guinea pig care, please see

hllp://www.GuineaPigSecrets.com )

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 You'll need to introduce your bunny to the guinea pigjust as you would to

another bunny. While most bunnies and guinea pigs tend to get along, there is no

guarantee your bunny will like your guinea pig and vice-versa. Test the waters first.

Also, prior to introducing the bunny and guinea pig, make sure you get an all-

clear from your vet. Both bunnies and guinea pigs are prone to certain diseases-such as

pasteurella-which they can pass on to one another.

Bunnies and dogs can live together in harmony in some instances, and only if

they are supervised. You should NEVER leave a bunny and a dog together unattended,

no matter how sure you are the dog would never hurt the bunny. Accidents happen, and

your excited, loving dog could want to play with the bunny but hurt her instead. To be

safe, it's always best to supervise your bunny and dog together. If you have to leave the

room, take your bunny with you or put her in her pen or cage.

There's no set formula for what breed of dog will get along with a bunny. It all

depends on the individual personality and temperament of the dog. For example,

dachshunds are known as hunting dogs. yet some have gotten along impeccably well with

the family's house bunny. Just remember, it all depends on the temperament of the dog.

(Never allow your dog to chase your bunny. Your dog may be playing. but bunnies are

prey animals. Your bunny isn't going to know your dog isjust playing and may become

so frightened. she has a heart attack and dies.)

When you first bring a dog home-(assuming the bunny is in the home before the

dog}--your bunny is going to be noticeably and understandably upset. By nature, dogs

are a rabbit's enemy, and you've just brought the enemy home. Your bunny may get

40
angry at you. Give her time to get used to having the dog and the dog's scent in the

house.

A great way to introduce your bunny to your dog for the first time is to make sure

your dog is on his leash, lying next to you. Give your bunny free run, allowing her to

explore. Always make sure she can get back into her cage, and if she's a free range bun.

make sure she has a place to run to hide, if she needs to feel safe.

If your dog gets up or becomes excited. tell him "no." Let the bunny hop and

explore for five to ten minutes then praise your dog and give him a treat for behaving so

well around the bunny. Do this several times a day, and you can gradually increase the

time over a period of days.

If at any time your dog becomes aggressive, immediately stop the introduction

session and wait until the next day to try again. After a week or several weeks, if this

process seems to be going well, you can try introducing the two with the dog off of the

leash. Just make sure you will be able to grab hold of the dog quickly ifhe begins to act

out.

Many dogs and bunnies have been known to get along splendidly. Just remember

to never leave them together unattended, no matter how much you "trust" either of them.

It's always better to play it safe than sorry. especially for the sake and the safety of your

beloved bunny.

Bunnies and cats can often bond. This may come as a surprise since cats, like

dogs, are predators of bunnies outside. If you have noticed your cat has a hunting instinct,

then it may be wise not to attempt introducing her to your bunny.

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 It's typically easier for an adult cat and a bunny to bond rather than a kitten and a

bunny, simply because of age and maturity. Always make sure to supervise your bunny

and cat. (The introductory procedure is similar to that with your dog, but since it's more

difficult to train a cat to respond to verbal commands, you should retain leash control

much longer).

Noises & Actions

Rabbits are generally quiet animals, but they are not silent. They make plenty of

noises-from growling to screaming to communicate how they feel.

Growling-If your rabbit growls or grunts at you, she's not happy about

something. Maybe she's angry that you're poking your hand into her cage, and she

doesn't want you in her territory. Growling can be a sign of anger, fear, uncertainty and

stress. The better you get to know the bunny, the more you'll discover what her different

growls mean.

Screaming-You never want to hear your bunny scream. A bunny scream is

usually shrill. It's a heart-breaking sound, and it generally signifies your bunny is either

hurt or dying. You'll want to get her help immediately.

Crying-Your bunny may cry sometimes. Sometimes a bunny will let out a little

cry or whimper and thumper their back feet.

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 Licking-If your bunny licks your face or your hands, be happy. She's telling you

"I love you."

Flopping-Your bunny is on top of the world. She is so happy, she can think of

no better way to show her happiness than flopping over, eyes closed, taking some time to

relax.

Binkying-You've got one happy bunny on your hands. She's gyrating, dancing,

hopping high in the air and shooting across the room at lightening speed. She's so happy

she's a bunny and living with you.

Thumping-Your bunny will thump her back legs for a number of reasons

including fear, anger and warning you to danger lurking.

The Bunny SaO-it's 6 a.m., and the Bunny 500 has taken off again. Your bunny

or bunnies are in their room, when all ofa sudden, zoom! They race around the room

over and over again at top bunny speed, until they're ready to just chill out, munch on

some hay, chew the phone book or flop down for a much-needed nap.

Chinning-Your bunny is rubbing her chin all over the furniture, the book your

reading and you. This is just her way of marking her territory, She's saying, "hey, this is

mine."

Aggression

Rabbits are just like people: they have individual personalities and individual

levels of aggression. Aggression can be the result of any number of things in rabbits

including hormones, fear, territory, stress and a past you may not know about.

Your bunny may well have been hit or treated badly in the past, and because of it,

she's afraid of people. She may not be used to people because she spent her life alone in

43
a hutch. Or, her previous owners might have done something to scare her and teach her

it's not safe to trust people. That fear is shown in aggression.

The good news about aggression is-no matter what is causing it-it's a behavior

pattern, and you can help your bunny to change it. Your bunny has learned this behavior

and simply cannot change on her own.

Aggressive rabbits tend to be taken to the shelter and euthanized most often,

simply because the owner doesn't know how to deal with their bunny's aggression. The

great news is aggressive bunnies can be changed, and formerly aggressive buns have

gone on to become some of the sweetest, most loving, affectionate bunnies you'll ever

meet. It just takes understanding, patience and love.

It's easy to get angry when you're dealing with an aggressive bunny, but you

must always remember that expressing that anger will get you nowhere. You need to be

patient and loving, showing your bunny she is safe. Also, it's extremely important you

NEVER hit a bunny; do not even tap her on the nose or the behind. Bunnies don't

understand hitting, and you'll only do more harm than good, making your bunny

defensive and more aggressive.

If your bunny is between six months and a year old, you'll need to be prepared for

aggression. In essence, this is the time your bunny is going through her "teenager stage:'

(And, sadly, this is the age when the majority of rabbits are set loose or taken to shelters.

It's a sad, disturbing fact that many house rabbits never make it to their first birthday.)

She's exactly like a nonnal teenager, and you're at your wits end. What do you do? Have

you had her spayed? Hormones will drive a bunny mad, just as they will with human

teenagers.

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 Have your bunnies spayed or neutered when they reach six months of age. If you

have them spayed too early. they may still display signs of aggression including

growling, chasing you, pouncing at you, circling your feet and nipping or biting your

ankles. Your bunny may also display these aggressive signs when she becomes sexually

mature. Don't be alarmed. It's just a natural pan of a bunny's life.

Even after your bunny is spayed, it may take her several months (a year

maximum) to get over her aggressive stage. That's the good news. It's only a phase as

your bunny takes a journey to maturity.

Does your bunny lounge at you, growling, when you open her cage door to feed

her or clean her liner box? It should come as no big surprise since bunnies are territorial,

and she's naturally protecting her territory. To make things easier and make her less

aggressive, make sure you clean her cage and liner box during her run time. Put the food

bowl down quickly when you feed her, but be aware she'll probably still growl.

Your bunny may also fight, kick and growl angrily when you try to reach into her

cage or pen to pick her up for run time. This is easy to remedy. Instead of trying to pick

up your bunny, simply leave the cage door open or make it so she can run through an

opening in the pen. This will allow her to feel the freedom to come out when she wants, It

might take her awhile to wander out, but don't worry. She will, and it will be a much

more pleasant experience than watching two big hands scoop down over her.

Maybe your bunny nips or bites your hand every time you put it down for her to

sniff or when you go near her to touch her. The reason for this is simple. Bunnies have

pretty bad up-close sight, so they're responding to the motion of your hand. You probably

just surprised or scared her, and that was her immediate reaction.

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 To remedy this kind of aggressive behavior, you'll need to do two things. First,

always make sure you reach for her with your hand above her head. Secondly, if she still

lunges at you, gently put your hand on her head and lower it to the ground, much like one

bunny would do to another to show her dominance.

If Thumper likes to be held, you'll know it. Her teeth will chatter in a happy purr.

(However, if you hear this kind of chattering from way across the room, you need to do

some investigating. Chattering that loud is generally a sign of pain, and you should get

your bunny to the vet as soon as possible.) And, if Thumper is tired of being held, you'll

know it, too. Many a bunny owner has been happily hugging or holding his bunny when

all ofa sudden the dreaded nip comes. If you're holding your bunny and she wants down,

she'll likely either nip you or bite you. All she's doing is saying, "Okay, I've had enough.

Let me down now."

If your bunny bites you, you'll feel the sting. You might even yelp out in pain, but

you'll be fine. A bunny has never seriously injured or killed anyone. Just wash off the

wound and go on your way. Most bunnies don't bite that often, and if they do, there's

generally a reason. They don't want to be bothered. They want to be put down. You're

annoying them. There are a plethora of reasons your bunny may show aggression to you,

including pain and illness.

A great way to deter your bunny-or at least show her she's hurting you when she

nips or bites-is to let out a little yelp. No matter how much of a surprise it is or how

much it stings, try not to yelp too loud. Loud squealing might scare your bunny even

more. causing him to become more aggressive. After a few times of this tame yelp, she

should get the idea.

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 When your bunny is aggressive to you, do not show her anger or frustration. Wait

a few moments, and then show her lots of affection instead. According to the House

Rabbit Society, your bunny thinks in patterns. Over time, she will learn when she

approaches you, you are going to respond with affection, happiness and friendly words.

(Of course, protect yourself physically until it's clear this is the case!)

Another way to allow your bunny to get to know you is to lie on the floor and

watch TV. Ignore your bunny. Or, sit in the middle of the floor and do something. Read a

book, cut coupons, do anything as long as you're ignoring your bunny. Before you know

it, she's going to come hopping over to investigate you and what's going on. Keep

ignoring her when she comes over. Let her hop on you, sniff you and explore. lfyou look

up or go to pet her, she might run away. Let her get used to you and your scent before

you start reaching out to her.

Don't expect your bunny to lose her aggressiveness overnight. In fact, you can

expect to work with her for several weeks or months. Patience, love. and affection almost

always do the trick. Your bunny needs time to learn to trust you. After all, you don't

know what she has gone through in the past. Sadly, many bunnies have suffered at the

hands of abuse.

Give your bunny patience and love, and allow her (or him) to blossom into the

wonderful individual personality that fear-and maybe even suffering-hasn't allowed

her to do until you came along. You'll be rewarded with more love and affection than

you ever could have imagined.

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 Handling & Petting Your Bunny

Never pick your bunny up by her ears or the scruff on the back of her neck. It's

both painful and dangerous to your bunny. Again, because they are prey animals, most

bunnies don't like to be picked up, so if you want to train your bunny to enjoy this, you'll

need to associate being picked up with good things, like coming out of her pen for run

time. If the only time you ever lift your bunny is for unpleasant experiences like trips to

the vet and nail trimmings, she's never going to like being picked up. Bunnies are

intelligent animals, and they know what's coming.

The best way to pick up a bunny is from behind. With one of your hands petting

your bunny, place the other hand on your bunny's bum then move your other hand under

your bunny's torso. Lift gently and hold closely to you, ensuring you always give your

bunny plenty of support on her legs. (Don't let her legs dangle.)

Lifting an unwilling bunny can be a challenge, but be patient and make sure to

read http://www.rabbit.org/joumal/3-11/lift.html.a wonderful article with pictures

showing you step-by-step how to pick up your bunny.

If you need to trim your bunny's nails, calm her down before giving her medicine

or allow the vet to examine her, you can sit with your knees together and lie her down on

her back. You'll notice she becomes quiet and begins to relax. This is called "trancing."

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 You can enjoy bonding with your bunny when you put her in a trance. At first,

she may only allow herself to be in this lying down position for a few seconds before she

starts wiggling to get away. That's fine. Just let her go. Practice every day for a few

seconds or a few minutes, if you want. It's a great bonding process and a wonderful way

to get your bunny to relax.

It is important to realize not all bunnies like being tranced. If your bunny doesn't

like it, don't force her to do it, or you'll just needlessly stress her out.

While bunnies might not all like to be picked up, bunnies generally LOVE being

petted. Remember to be gentle when you pet your bunny. Pet her above the nose, and

she'll put her head down as she does when her mate grooms her. Give her a gentle ear

rub. Petting your bunny is a good way to bond to her. You can also kiss her nose and

head. Most bunnies don't mind being kissed.

You can definitely bond to your bunny. Because your bunny doesn't like to be

held, you'll want to get her to come to you. There's a simple trick to accomplish this.

Ignore her. Just sit on the floor, and do something else. Lie on your stomach and watch

TV. You'll be surprised at how quickly your bunny will come over. hop up and down

your back and investigate. If you don't want to watch TV, read a book, clip coupons or

do anything but remember to ignore your bunny. She'll become interested, hop over and

start investigating.

Will your bunny remember you if you go 011 vacation or leave her with a petsitter

for a short period? Definitely. She might not be too happy with you when you return, and

you'll probably have to work to show her you're sorry for leaving her behind.

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 Anatomy & Classification of Rabbits
Rabbits are not rodents; they are lagomorphs. Bunnies are adorable, sweet

animals, but they have extremely complex bodies, which is why you have to be so

observant of their behavior and eating patterns. (Read more in the Health Section.) Your

bunny's average temperature is between 101 and 103 degrees Fahrenheit.

Ears-If you touch your rabbit's ears in the summer, you might notice they are

hot or warm. Rabbits' ears are warm in order to help their bodies stay cool. Your bunny

hears at a lower pitch than you do, and her ears are designed with the ability to hear

sounds from two directions at the same time.

Eycs-A bunny has excellent vision from the side and above them. Because their

eyes are on the side of their faces, when they look straight ahead they have a blind spot.

Even so, bunnies can amazingly see almost 360 degrees around.

Fur-You might notice your bunny hopping around-"chinning" everything

from the furniture to the floor to you. She has scent glands in her chin, thus, she is

leaving her scent everywhere. [fyou've ever redecorated a room or brought a new piece

of furniture home, you've probably noticed your bunny went around chinning everything

again. This is normal because she wants to mark her territory.

Your bunny's whiskers help her determine ifshe can fit through a certain hole or

entrance. This is simply because her whiskers are as long as the width of her body,

allowing her to measure distances.

Rabbits are extremely clean animals, and they will clean themselves many times a

day. You don't need to bathe a rabbit. However, you may want to for one reason or

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another. Discuss this with your bunny-savvy vet, and have him give you an acceptable

shampoo. Never use dog or cat shampoo on your bunny as they are harmful to rabbits.

Rabbits also shed their fur which is why iCs so important to groom them. You'll

want to brush and comb them at least once a week when they are not shedding and daily

during the shedding period. Rabbits shed every three months-some sheds are lighter

than others, and you might notice your bunny has some bald spots during shedding. This

is nothing to worry about as the fur will grow back in time.

During your bunny's shedding periods, you' II want to make sure you give her

Petromalt or Laxatone-both preventative medications that can help fur balls-on a daily

basis. You can generally find both at your local pet store. As always, make sure your

bunny also has constant access to hay to help her intestines flow smoothly.

You may also notice your bunny is pulling her own fur out. There are several

reasons she may do this. Pregnant rabbits pull their fur out to make nests for their babies.

Your bunny may also be pulling her fur out because she has dry skin or a fungal

infection. If you notice your bunny is pulling her fur out, you'll want to consult with your

vet as soon as possible.

You can learn more about fur loss by reading the following article:

http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/furloss.html.

Legs-Rabbits have powerful legs. If they become extremely frightened, they can

kick so hard they break their backs. Bunnies also use their back legs to "thump."

Thumping can mean your bunny is angry or scared or wants your attention for some

reason. The more you get to know your bunny, the more you'll be able to tell what her

thumps mean.

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 Make sure when you pick up your bunny, you always do so properly (one hand

beneath her torso and another supporting her bum.) You want to give your bunny proper

support when you're holding her, or you can risk injury. (Ifshe's not properly supported,

she'll probably squirm, kick and feel unsafe and unhappy.)

Finally, rabbits do not have padded feet like dogs, which is why it's so important

they don't have cages with wire bottoms.

Mouth-Despite what you may have heard, bunnies don't have the capacity to

distinguish between safe and poisonous plants. Their mouths are not equipped to tell the

difference. You might be surprised to know that bunnies have more than 8,000 taste buds.

So, if you notice your bunny dive bombs for the parsley but turns her nose up at kale, you

know why. Her taste buds mean she can favorite foods and foods she dislikes.

It's even possible to give your bunny the Heimlich Maneuver if she's chocking.

To learn how, read http://www.heimlichinstitute.org/pets.html.

Nose---One of the cutest things about a bunny is the way she twitches her nose. [n

fact, a bunny twitches her nose between 20 and 120 times a minute. When a rabbit

twitches her nose, she is able to smell more because her nose is exposing even more

sensory pads.

While people have between five and six million smell receptors, bunnies have

more than 100 million. Bunnies use their nose to sniff out their territory, to investigate

other bunnies when they meet and to identify who you are.

Reproduction-You might have seen the commercials where one bunny

multiplies into hundreds by the end of ad. It's somewhat of an exaggeration but not

much. Bunnies can reproduce and quickly. A female rabbit becomes sexually mature

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between three and six months of age while a male begins to have the ability to reproduce

between four to six months of age. Females can give birth to between four and six baby

bunnies-every month. That is why is so important you get your girls spayed and your

boys neutered. With a million rabbits euthanized each year, you'll be helping to curb the

number of homeless bunnies.

Stomach-Unlike humans, rabbits are unable to throw up. If they get a hair

block, they cannot throw it up. Instead, they'll be at risk for stasis, a potentially life-

threatening illness. Therefore, it is extremely important you make sure your bunny has

access to hay 24 hours day. The hay helps your bunny's intestines to flow smoothly.

Dewlap---Does your female bunny have a roll of fur under her neck? That's her

dewlap, and it's designed to store fat in your bunny's body. This fat would be used if

your bunny has babies. Not all female bunnies have dewlaps, and some have very

noticeable dewlaps.

While you might think dewlaps are specific only to females, many male bunnies

also have dewlaps. There is no scientific reason as to why a male has a dewlap. Some

have speculated an overweight male bunny will develop a dewlap, but there are just as

many thin males who develop dewlaps.

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 Your Bunny's Diet

Everyone's seen Bugs Bunny munching on his long carrot, the green tips swaying

back and forth. Many people-who do not have bunnies-think carrots are an essential

part of the rabbit's diet. perhaps even the main ingredient. This is probably one of the

biggest misconceptions regarding bunnies. In fact. carrots are treats and should be given

accordingly to your bunny. Carrots are high in sugar, therefore, you should be careful in

how many carrots you allow your bunny each week.

Contrary To Popular Belief, Carrots

Are Only OK For Bunnies In Limited Quantities
(Grapes Too!)

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 The most essential part ofa rabbit's diet is unlimited hay. Baby bunnies-to

approximately three weeks of age-simply nurse from their mother's milk. For baby

bunnies' third and fourth week of life, they'll continue to nurse from their mother's milk

and have tiny bites of both alfalfa hay and pellets. From four to seven weeks of age, baby

bunnies still drink their mother's milk, but they should also be allowed to hay pellets and

hay.

Unlimited hay is the most

essential part of a rabbit's diet.

Once a baby bunny is seven weeks old, she'll stop nursing and begin to eat

unlimited pellets and unlimited hay. When she is three months old, you can begin giving

your baby bunny greens. It's important that you introduce only one type of green or

vegetable at a time to allow her body to adjust to the new food.

Adult rabbits should be given unlimited hay, which helps keep their digestive

track flowing properly-including Timothy hay, grass hay and oat hays. However, alfalfa

is rich in protein and should be given sparingly to bunnies over a year old. You'll

probably find your bunny prefers one type of hay over another or one brand over another,

and that's natural. Bunnies-who are strictly vegetarians~an be picky like people, too.

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 Here are some popular places from which you can get hay, and many people

choose to purchase bales of 25 or 50 pounds, which last for a fairly long time provided

they are kept in proper conditions (out of the damp, in a container with the lid sealed.) If

you find, when you pick up your hay, that it is dusty, you'll want to get new hay. You

don't want to give your bunny moldy hay. You can also purchase hay from some farms;

generally, you can get a large bale for a very reasonable price.

• http://www.oxbowhav.com/

• http://www.oxfordmeadowshay.com/

• http://www.sweetmeadowfarm.com/

• http://www.americanpetdiner.com/

• http://www.alfalfaking.com/

In addition to unlimited hay, you'll want to consider feeding your bunny pellets.

There is often a debate between bunny owners whether pellets should or should not be

included in a rabbit's diet. Some people simply have their bunnies on a diet of hay and

fresh greens. (Some rabbits are also restricted to hay and greens because of health

conditions such as arthritis.)

If you do decide to feed pellets-and just as many people, ifnot more, feed their

bunnies pellets as those who do not-you'll want to make sure you do so in proper

quantities.

Until your bunny is a year of age, she can have unlimited pellets. (And, she will

love it. Most bunnies absolutely love their pellets.) However, after that, it is advised by

many vets that your bunny be limited in pellet intake. In fact, according to the House

Rabbit Society, your bunny's servings should be as follows:

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 • A quarter cup of pellets each day if your bunny weighs between five and seven

pounds.

• A half a cup of pellets each day if your bunny weighs between eight and 10

pounds.

• Three quarters of a cup each day if your bunny weighs between I I and 15 pounds.

Of course, things work differently for different bunnies, and you may find a dwarf

bunny needs more pellets in her diet than recommended. Some owners also give their

bunnies one cup of pellets per day. Talk to your vet during your bunny's annual checkup,

and ask him for his recommendations. To get an in-depth look at the differences between

brands of pellets, read http://www.rabbit.orl!/joumal/3-4/pellet-info.html. Make sure you

NEVER buy pellets that also include seeds in the package. Seeds are bad for rabbits and

should never be fed to them.

Now that your bunny is eating a limited amount of pellets each day, you'll want to

ensure she has unlimited hay and gets plenty of fresh vegetables (dark leafy vegetables

are best), between two and four cups a day. The House Rabbit Society recommends you

give your bunny no more than a teaspoon of fresh fruit a day, as they are considered

treats due to their high sugar levels. Do not feed your bunnies treats that you find in the

grocery store, including nuts and seeds. These are not good for your bunny. Instead, give

them a piece ofa banana or a carrot, which they'll enjoy just as much, ifnot more.

Some bunnies can be just like dogs, and they follow you to the refrigerator, or beg

for some of your food. Make sure you stick to your bunny's diet. No matter how much

she wants a Cheerio or a French fry, don't give it to her. Give her an approved bunny

treat (carrot, strawberry, piece of banana, etc.) instead.

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 Just as chocolate and caffeine can kills dogs, they can be fatal if eaten by rabbits.

So, always make sure to keep your chocolate bars out of bunnies reach, and don't leave

your cup of coffee or soda at bunny-drinking level.

The House Rabbit Society of San Diego compiled the following list of approved

vegetables and fruits for bunnies:

Alfalfa sprouts. apples (make sure the seeds and stem are gone), blueberries,

radish sprouts, clover sprouts, basil, the tops of beet greens, bok choy, broccoli (mostly

leaves/stems), brussel sprouts, carrots, carrot tops, celery, cilantro

clover, collard greens, dandelion greens, endive, escarole, green peppers, kale, mint,

melon, mustard greens, orange (buns can eat the peels, too,) papaya. parsley, peach, pear,

peppermint leaves, pineapple, plums, radicchio, radish tops, raspberries, raspberry leaves,

romaine lettuce (never feed the iceberg lettuce,) spinach, strawberries, watercress and

wheat grass.

Bananas and grapes are also safe for bunnies, but they should be given as treats

and sparingly because bunnies tend to ignore all other food when a piece of banana or a

grape is put in front of them. You'll love to watch Thumper munch away happily on his

piece of banana (there's no cuter sound than a bunny chomping on a banana), but if you

give him too much, he'll never want to eat anything else.

Bunnies LOVE bananas and grapes .. ,

but be careful, if you give them too

much, they won't want to eat

anything else!

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 It's important to give your bunny a variety of vegetables and fruits in addition to

her normal hay and pellets. Bunnies cannot live on one food alone for health reasons,

and they can get bored with food just as people can. Your bunny will have her own

favorite fruits and veggies, and you can purchase them accordingly once you get to know

what she likes and what she doesn't like. (Most bunnies absolutely love fresh parsley and

will go crazy when you feed it to them.)

You should also adhere to the House Rabbit Society's recommendation of two to

four cups of greens a day or heed your vet's advice. A bunny who eats too many greens

can risk getting wet, mushy poop, a form of diarrhea. The only thing in a bunny's diet

that does not have to be given in moderation is the unlimited hay. They can eat as much

hay as they want all day, every day.

If your bunny refuses to eat her pellets because of a brand change then you should

make sure she has unlimited hay and ample fresh greens. Then, you should consult your

vet for ideas of what to do, orlo determine if she should stay on a pellet-free diet.

If you don't want to go to the store to purchase food for your bunny then your

bunny will obviously have a pellet-free diet. (Make sure you talk this decision over with

your vet.) You can grow a garden full of bunny acceptable vegetables and fruits, and your

bunny can munch on the backyard grass (as long as the grass has NOT been sprayed by

pesticides.) However, your bunny must have unlimited access to hay, and grass obviously

doesn't grow in the wintertime, unless you live in a warm climate. If you absolutely do

not want to purchase any food from the store, consider going to a local farm to get your

bunny high quality bales of Timothy Hay.

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 A wild rabbit's diet is somewhat different from a house bunny's diet Wild

bunnies eat a lot of grass (hay is simply dry grass) and small plants. If you've ever had a

garden or known someone with a garden, you're probably well aware that wild rabbits

love to get into gardens and munch away on the vegetables.

If you have wild rabbits in your back yard-or come face to face with them-you

should never touch them. This is mostly to protect your own bunnies. If you touch a wild

rabbit then pet your bunny, you may pass on illnesses and diseases the wild bunny has.

If you find an injured wild rabbit, you can check your local yellow pages and find

a local wildlife rehabilitation center. They generally send someone out to pick up the

injured animal.

If you ever find a nest of wild bunnies, never touch the bunnies or move their

nest Their mom only feeds them briefly twice a day, so it's quite normal if they are left

alone. For more of what to do if you find baby bunnies, read hltp://www.ohare.orglbaby_

wild-rabbits.htm.

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 Litter Box Training

Yes, your bunny can be litterbox trained. Bunnies are very clean animals. and

they can learn quickly. You'll have a much easier time litter training your bunny if she is

spayed or he is neutered first. It's not impossible to litter train a bunny who is not spayed

or not neutered. but once he or she hits sexual maturity, all of those impeccable litterbox

habits are going to go right out of the window. Sexual maturity means it's time for your

bunny to mark her territory. (It's just a natural process she'll grow out of once you have

her spayed and litter train her.)

At this peak of sexual maturity. your bunny will also begin to spray to mark her

territory. There is little you can do to stop her except keep her or him confined until

spayed or neutered. There is a definite scent when your bunny sprays, and you'll know it

when you smell it. In order to keep her Iitterbox and cage clean and fresh, simply use

white vinegar.

To start you'll need severallitterboxes (one for her cage and several for outside of

her cage) and adequate litter.

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 Linerboxes are inexpensive and generally only cost a few dollars. You can get a

good, solid plastic litterbox from Wal-mart, or you can go to your local pet store.

(Litterboxes at pet stores tend to be more expensive than stores like Wal-Mart.) You'll

want to get a litterbox big enough for your bunny. You can also get triangle litterboxes

for cage corners.

You can keep your bunny's litterbox clean by changing the litter everyday. You'll

also want to thoroughly wash the litterbox as needed. To do this, you want to fill a spray

bottle with white vinegar, spray and scrub the litterbox. You never want to use any type

of chemicals or cleaning materials on your bunny's litterbox or cage.

You'll want to make sure you use bunny safe litter for your rabbit's litterbox.

Avoid any clumping kitty liner. Your bunny may be tempted to ingest the litter, and this

is dangerous. It could cause a blockage in her stomach, leading to stasis and possible

death. Also, do not use cedar or pine shavings, chemical sand, corn cob and dustless or

generic clay. These types of liner are all potentially hazardous to your bunny.

Instead, you'll want to use one of the following:

• Yesterday's News Litter. You can get the Yesterday's News Kitty Litter. It is

basically the same as the Yesterday's News Rabbit Litter, except it is not as

expensIve.

• Carefresh Litter. Their website is http://www.carefresh.ca/home.html.

• Wood stove pellets. You can find wood stove pellets at fireplace stores as well as

home improvement stores like Home Depot and Lowe's. Generally, Home Depot

and Lowe's only sell wood stove pellets during the winter. If you live in the

north, you can generally find wood stove pellets year round at specialty stores. A

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 40-pound bag usually costs around four or five dollars. Wood stove pellets look

great and keep litterboxes smelling fresh.

• Straw. Straw is good for litterboxes outside of your bunny's cage. Inside the

cage, it tends to be messy and hard to clean up.

• Paper-shredded. You can try using just shredded paper or shredded paper with

hay on top. You'll need to change the litter daily. The one drawback of shredded

paper is your bunny might take a liking to eating a lot of it. If this is the case,

your bunny can get an intestinal blockage. If you notice your bunny is eating a lot

of her paper litter, you'll want to switch litters immediately.

Rabbits have two different types of droppings: fecal pellets and cecotropes. Fecal

pellets are the little poops you see in your bunny's litter box. They're various sizes

depending on the bunny and are hard. Cecotropes (which aren't feces) are grapelike

clusters your bunny expels at night then eats them, helping to produce necessary

nutrients. You may only see cecotropes from time-to-time. It's necessary for your bunny

to eat the cecotropes, and you shouldn't worry when you see her eating them. In fact, it's

something she enjoys.

Now you're ready to start the litter training process. First, be aware that bunnies

generally pick where they want their litterboxes to go by simply pooping in a particular

area. If possible, put the litterbox in your bunny's chosen spot. You can put it there

temporarily and try moving it to where you want it later on. This might work, and it

might not. Your bunny might be stubborn and insist on going to the bathroom where she

wants to go, and that includes everywhere from your bed to the couch. In these instances,

you need to not allow her on the bed or the couch until she learns to go in her litterbox.

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 It's important you always keep your bunny's litterbox clean. Bunnies are clean

animals, and if their boxes aren't clean, they're likely to go outside of the box, sometimes

right next to it. Keeping your bunny's litterboxes clean encourages her to go inside. You

can also put some hay inside the Iitterbox to entice her in. Bunnies love to eat while

they're going to the bathroom.

When you first begin litter training, you should strongly consider keeping your

bunny confined to one room or one area of the house until she understands what she's

supposed to do. Make sure there are plenty of litterboxes available both in her cage and

outside of it. Sometimes dropping just a few pellets of poop into the Iitterbox will remind
her that's the place to go.

Always praise your bunny when she successfully goes in the litterbox. Never scold,

yell or hit her if she has an accident. Also, make sure to thoroughly clean up after

accidents. If your bunny pees, take some vinegar and clean the spot thoroughly. If you

leave the scent there, you will be inviting her to go back and pee there again.

Bunnies generally learn to use their litterboxes quickly. However, there may be times

when their litterbox habits become sloppy. If you add a new bunny to the family, you

should expect your bunny to have a lot more "accidents" while she's marking her

territory again. Don't worry, Once everything has settled down, she'll go back to using

her litterbox. Remember, bunnies also like to mark their territory when new furniture is

brought home; when the room is redecorated and when there's something new in the

room. Sometimes they do this by just chinning everything, and sometimes they leave

little trails of pellets.

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 If your bunny is usually great with the litterbox and all of a sudden stops using it

or if you're having trouble getting your bunny to use the litterbox, you should take her to

the vet to be checked. She may have a urinary tract infection or some other illness

causing her to act out.

If you notice your bunny's poop is sticking to her butt, you'll want to clean it off

gently. This is referred to as "poopy butt." Poopy butt can be a result of too many

vegetables in your bunny's diet. Consult your vet immediately. He may tell you to give

your bunny less vegetables and more hay to see if that helps, or he may want to see her to

determine if it's something else.

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 Health

As a bunny owner, you need to be well informed of health conditions common to

rabbits. Because rabbits are prey animals, they tend to hide their illnesses-{)ften until

they are too sick to be saved. Therefore, it is extremely important you always keep a

close eye on your bunny's behavior, eating habits and amount of droppings. Any changes

should raise alarm bells because, unlike dogs or cats, illnesses in bunnies tend to strike

swiftly-and can be fatal.

One of the most important things to remember as a bunny owner is: education is

key. But, don't expect to be perfect from the beginning. You're not going to be. You're

going to learn, over time, the intricacies of rabbits. If you join a bunny chat group or talk

to anyone who's had a bunny, you'll undoubtedly hear stories from bunny owners who

wish they'd just known this or known that when they had their first bunny. It will take

time and mistakes to become a fully knowledgeable bunny owner. The most important

thing is to keep educating yourself and give your bunny a lot of love.

It's also important to know a rabbit's stomach is like a horse's, not a cat or dog.

Bunnies are unable to throw up, and they need to have constant access to hay in order for

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their intestines to flow freely. Unlike dogs and cats, rabbits do not need yearly

vaccinations or shots. Instead, you'll just want to take them to the vet for an annual

checkup. Of course, if your bunny is sick, you'll need to take her to the vet more often.

You should be aware that vet visits can get costly. First, you must find a bunny-

savvy vet, and treatment for a sick rabbit can be expensive. Therefore, it's best to

consider this before adopting a bunny. Will you be able to afford to give your bunny the

proper care ifshe gets sick? Many people don't think about the financial consequences of

an illness or an injury, and many innocent bunnies are euthanized because their owners

cannot afford or are not willing to foot the sometimes hefty vet bills.

If you do not have a bunny-savvy vet, simply join Etherbun on Yahoo Groups (do

a search from http://groups.vahoo.com). Etherbun is a Iistserv dedicated to the health,

behavior and care of house rabbits. Once you've joined, post a message with the subject:

Yet In (Name of your city or town.) Etherbun is comprised of house rabbit owners and

rabbit experts. and responses are generally quick. especially if you have an emergency

situation. You can also find a list of vets recommended by the House Rabbit Society at

hup:/ /www.rabbit.org/care/vets.html.

When choosing a vet, make sure you ask about their emergency service. Are they

available if your bunny has an emergency on a Sunday or a holiday? (Many emergency

vet services simply do not have vets on staff who are bunny-savvy. leaving a panicked

bunny owner to rely on someone who is not familiar with rabbits to save their bun's life.)

Some vets may not be available on the weekends and holidays; however, if you go to the

emergency vet who backs them up, you may find the ER vet is able to call your regular

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 vet for a consult.) It's best to find a regular vet before you're faced with an emergency

situation or an illness.

You may want to attempt to take of your sick bunny yourself, but as you'lIlearn,

this is often impossible without the help of a rabbit-savvy vet. First, your bunny will need

prescribed antibiotics. medications that cannot be found in the pet store. Rabbits are very

specialized animals; therefore, you generally won't find medications for them at a normal

pet store. However, you will find Petromalt (a gel which you can give your bunny to

prevent hairballs) in pet stores and shops like Agway, and you may also be able to find

Glucosamine (which is often used to control pain in bunnies who have arthritis) your

bunny will be able to take at your local pet store.

There are some instances in which your bunny may have a slight injury that you

can remedy at home. For example, if you're trimming your bunny's nails, you may cut a

little too deep. causing bleeding. In order to stop the bleeding, simply dip your bunny's

paw in flour. You'll find the bleeding has stopped in a few minutes. However. ifit hasn't

stopped after awhile, be sure to call your vet.

Finally, in order for a bunny to survive an illness, you need to be prepared to give

her plenty of love and attention. Helping to pull a bunny through an illness can be an

emotional and bonding process. You also need to be vigilant with administering

medication and watch closely to make sure your bunny eats. There are instances when

you will need to syringe feed your bunny during an illness, so it's a good idea to practice

this before your bunny gets sick. A sick bunny can be a stubborn bunny, and it's

extremely important you are able to keep her nourished.

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 In this section, we'll take a closer look at the illnesses of which you should be

aware. In addition, there are numerous links you can click on which will help you learn

even more about each illness.

WARNING: NEVER ALLOW YOUR VET

TO GIVE YOUR BUNNY AMOXICILLIN.

In fact, if your vet says even one shot or dose of amoxicillin will not harm
your rabbit, warning flags should be raised. You never ever want your
bunny to take amoxicillin. Amoxicillin, as well as some types of penicillin,
are harmful to rabbits because they destroy the good bacteria in a bunny's
intestines. They can also cause malfunctioning of a rabbit's organs.

GI Stasis

GI Stasis, or Gastrointestinal Stasis, is a common illness-and can easily lead to

death-in bunnies. GI Stasis basically means your bunny's intestines have become

immobile. This happens for any number of reasons including malocclusion (which we'll

discuss later on in this chapter,) illness, gas, stress and a lack of adequate fiber in a bun' s

diet (for this reason, unlimited grass hay in your bunny's diet is extremely important.)

There are warning signs that will clue you in to your bunny's possible stasis. If

your bunny hasn't eaten or pooped in at least 12 hours, you need to immediately get him

to a bunny-savvy vet. This is a classic sign of stasis. and time is of the essence in getting

your bunny help.

GI Stasis is known as the silent killer of bunnies. so you need to constantly be

observant. Other signs that can indicate possible stasis are tiny poops (either sprinkled on

the floor or in the litter box or stuck to your bunny's bum) and diarrhea.

If you hear loud gurgles from your bunny's stomach. chances are good he is

suffering from a painful bout of gas, which leads to GI Stasis. By the same token. if you

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 put your ear (or a stethoscope, if you have one) to your bunny's stomach and hear silence,

you should also be concerned. Bunnies' stomachs generally make some quiet gurgling

noises, and silence and unusually loud noises are both bad signs, requiring immediate

attention.

GI Stasis means your bunny is in a potentially LIFE OR DEATH situation, so be

prepared to take swift action.

What will happen once you get your bunny to the vet? The first thing you can

expect the vet to do is listen to your bunny's intestines with a stethoscope to check

whether they sound nonnal. You may also expect X-rays to be taken, so your vet can

determine if there are any blockages offur or excrement. Your bunny's intestines may

become blocked if he accidentally ate something he shouldn't have: plastic, for example.

Since bunnies love to chew, there's always the chance they may ingest something they

shouldn't.

If your doctor has determined your bunny is indeed suffering from GI Stasis, he

may gently massage your bunny's stomach, in an effort to get the intestines to move

again. He also may give your bunny Simethicone. generally an over-the-counter

medication. to help relieve gas.

In extreme cases. your vet may offer you the option of a gastrotomy. which means

he would cut your bunny's stomach open and remove the mass. However, the survival

rate for such an operation is not good.

When you visit your vet-preferably in a non-emergency situation-ask him to

show you how to massage your bunny's tummy. Many experienced rabbit owners fight

the stasis themselves by giving tummy massages, giving proper gas medication and

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making sure their bunnies have plenty of leafy greens. (Sometimes a potentially bad case

of stasis can be curbed by making sure your bunny has unlimited grass hay and plenty of

leafy greens each day.)

To learn more about 01 Stasis, including how to treat your bunny, go to:

http://www.bio.miamLedufhare/ileus.htmI.This is a MUST read article for every bunny

owner. In fact, you might want to bookmark the page or print it out and put it in a

convenient place in case of an emergency.

You may also want to read the excellent article at

http://www.mybunny.org/info/gistasis.htm.

Malocclusion

Malocclusion simply means your bunny's teeth are not aligned properly. which

causes them to overgrow. Some bunnies are simply born with misaligned teeth. In fact,

malocclusion often occurs in dwarf and lop bunnies.

Malocclusion is often the result of some sort of trauma to the bunny; a fight

between bunnies, for instance, in which the bunny's face is injured or bitten. A bunny's

teeth can also become infected by bacteria, causing malocclusion.

An adult bunny has 28 teeth: six incisors and 22 molars. A rabbit's teeth are

constantly growing, and bunnies with normal teeth are able to keep them short by simply

chewing and eating. Bunnies with malocclusion. however. are unable to trim their teeth

by simply just chewing (on acceptable wood, cardboard, etc.) Therefore, they either need

to have their teeth trimmed regularly, which generally means a visit to the vet every two

to four weeks, or they need to have them removed.

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 A bunny who has malocclusion of the incisors will often grow "tusks," mini-

versions of what you'd seen on an elephant. (So-called tusks on some bunnies will grow

inward inside the mouth rather than outward, making it more difficult to see.) These tusks

make it virtually impossible for the bunny to chew or function normally. Many bunny

owners take their bunnies to the vet to have their teeth trimmed regularly, and some very

experienced rabbit owners are even able to trim their bunnies' teeth themselves.

However, there is some debate as to whether regular trimming of the incisors is

too traumatic-as it is done without anesthesia-making it better for the bunny to have

the problem teeth pulled. If your bunny has malocclusion, discuss the options with your

rabbit-savvy vet. Every bunny is different-some are extremely calm when handled and

some are so excitable it makes handling difficult-so it should be a decision carefully

discussed with your vet.

Malocclusion of the incisors can also lead to molar spurs. Molar spurs mean the

rim of a rabbit's teeth-whether the rabbit has malocclusion or not-have become pointy

and sharp. Molar spurs can be very painful for a rabbit because they can dig into the

cheek and tongue, making it difficult-if not impossible-for the bunny to eat.

When a rabbit has molar spurs, he will be put under anesthesia (which is perfectly

safe), allowing the vet to file the spurs. It is a quick process, and your bunny will be

home the same day.

Signs that your bunny may have malocclusion or molar spurs include drooling

and an unwillingness to eat. Dealing with dental problems is extremely important, or else

your bunny is at risk for GI Stasis, which can potentially be fatal.

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 Bunnies, who have malocclusion and molar spurs, live perfectly happy and

normal lives as long as their teeth continue to be properly cared for, so don't be too

alarmed if your bunny develops either condition.

Pasteurella (a,k,a. Snuffles)

Whether you know it or not, your bunny may already carry the bacteria that

causes pasteurella or snuffles. Many rabbits have the pasteurella bacteria but never show

any symptoms or signs of illness and live completely normal lives. The bacteria can

easily enter a rabbit's body through wounds and the nose, then the bacteria begin to grow.

Many rabbits' have strong, healthy immune systems that can combat the pasteurella

bacteria, but some don't.

However, if your bunny does exhibit signs of pasteurella, you'll need to get her to

the vet immediately to begin antibiotics. Signs of pasteurella include: an upper

respiratory infection with discharge from the bunny's nose. You may not be able to see

the discharge from your bunny's nose because rabbits are very good at cleaning

themselves. Check their front paws for matted fur, a result of the discharge. This clear

discharge will later become filled with pus.

Pasteurella may also present itself as an eye infection or a middle ear infection

that quickly turns to an inner ear infection (which can lead to heat tilt, which we discuss

next.) In all cases, the pasteurella can result in abscesses in the heart, lungs and even the

mouth, all of which require proper care from a bunny-savvy vet.

Rabbits can get the pasteurella bacteria from other rabbits as well as from people

who are carrying it on either their skin or their clothing. Your vet will be able to

determine a diagnosis of pasteurella by taking a nasal culture. If the culture comes back

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 positive, your bunny will likely go on medication such as Baytril (a very popular

antibiotic used to treat bunnies.) Most rabbits recover completely from pasteurella, but

some bunnies may need to take medication for the rest of their lives to control the

pasteurella.

In order to minimize the chance of your bunny being exposed to the pasteurella

bacteria, you can take a few simple precautions;

• Don't allow your bunny to get overheated.

• Always wash your hands after you've been around other rabbits or cats. Make

sure to use warm water and soap, and dry your hands thoroughly before you pet

your own buns.

• If you're a volunteer at an animal shelter or with a rescue organization, make sure

you always change both your shoes and your clothes before you come into contact

with your own bunnies again.

• Thoroughly clean your bunny's litter boxes.

Head Tilt

If you've ever seen a bunny whose head limps to one side, you've seen a bunny

with head till. Head tilt is caused by a number of things including: inner ear infections,

E.cuniculi (which we will discuss later in this section), trauma or cancer.

Most head tilt cases are a result of inner ear infections, and X-rays generally need

to be taken in order to diagnose an inner ear infection. To combat the inner ear infection,

your vet will likely prescribe antibiotics. If that fails, your vet may suggest ear surgery to

help drain the ear. (An outer ear infection-which can lead to an inner ear infection if not

detected-is likely if there is a discharge from the bunny's ears.)

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 Another cause of head tilt may be a traumatic injury to your bunny's head; i.e. if

your bunny has been hit or kicked in the head, face or neck. Your bunny may also

experience head tilt ifshe has ingested any type of toxic material including lead paint

from chewing on walls and plants poisonous to rabbits.

You'll need to have plenty of patience and love to help your bunny deal with head

tilt. However, it's important to note that head tilt should by no means be a death sentence

for a bunny. Many bunnies with head tilt live long, happy lives, hopping and playing as

well as their healthy bunny counterparts-some recover completely, and some recover to

the point of only a slightly noticeable tilt of the head.

So, how do you take care of a bunny with head tilt? First, the head of a bunny

with head tilt generally slopes to one side, and the eye facing down will generally not

have the ability to close anymore. Therefore, you'll need to ask your bunny-savvy vet the

best kind of eye ointment to use to keep your bunny's eyes moist.

Bunnies will head tilt also have problem keeping their balance and will fall and

roll, so you'll need to make sure their surroundings are padded and comfortable. You'll

also need to make sure their space-whether a cage or a pen-is smaller than normal, to

ensure your bunny doesn't get hurt. Many stores sell synthetic sheepskin rugs that you'll

want to put beneath your bunny when she is lying down. These are excellent products, as

your bunny-when she urinates-will remain clean and dry. Make sure you have plenty

of rolled up towels or pillows, so your bunny can lean against them, allowing her to be in

a more upright position.

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 It's perfectly fine for you to pick up your bunny if she has head tilt. Just

remember to hold her properly and closely to your body, not letting any part of her body

dangle. You want her to feel secure in your arms.

Finally, you'll probably need to help your bun to eat by hand feeding her greens

and hay. In all likelihood, she will not want to eat her pellets. (This is also another sign of

illness. Most healthy bunnies love and gobble up their pellets while most sick bunnies

refuse them.)

Of course, a bun with any type of illness is prone to not wanting to eat. If this is

the case, you'll probably need to resort to syringe feeding your bunny. If you've practiced

syringe feeding prior to the illness, you should have little trouble. If you do have trouble,

simply be patient and remember your bunny can feel your stress. It's important for you to

remain calm, so your bunny will be calm.

E.cuniculi

E.cuniculi is simply a parasitic organism found in a variety of animals, including

rabbits. Many rabbits are exposed to the parasite, and a simple blood test will determine

if your bunny has been exposed to E. cuniculi. However, exposure doesn't mean your

bunny will ever even show signs of the disease.

What affect does e. cuniculi have on a rabbit? Symptoms include head tilt and

paralysis. However, your doctor should rule out all other possibilities (remember, head

tilt can be a result of an inner ear infection) before confirming it is the e. cuniculi causing

the symptoms.

To learn more about e. cuniculi, read the following articles:

• http://www.hrschicago.org/cuniculifr.htm I

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 • http://www.uk-pet-rabbitsAt.com/about.htm I

• http://www.vet-2-pet.com/rabbitwelfare/ecuniculi.htm I

• http://www.rabbit.org/chapters/san-diego/healthlvet-talk/cuniculi.htm I

Fly Strike

The warm weather is a fertile time for flies. and flies can be deadly to your bunny.

Fly strike can strike any rabbit, but those particularly prone include buns with loose

stools, elder buns, disabled buns and overweight buns, all of who may have trouble

cleaning themselves. If your bun has any open wounds, you should also be cautious of

fly strike because flies will often lay their eggs in the warm flesh of the wound, thus

infesting your bunny. The flies will eat at the bunny's flesh, releasing a toxin that may

well send the bunny into shock.

So, how do you know if your bunny has been afflicted with fly strike? Some

bunnies with fly strike will have seizures, and you should also be concerned if your

bunny suddenly becomes lethargic. (Even if it isn't fly strike, your bunny could be

battling a serious illness ifhe is lethargic. Lethargy is a bad sign in rabbits.) If it is fly

strike, the lethargy may be a result of your bunny going into shock.

You'll need to take action immediately, when you notice your bunny has been

infested, by calling a rabbit-savvy vet. Fly strike is often a fatal disease ifnot adhered to

immediately.

You should also read the following article now, just to be prepared in the event of

an emergency in the future: http://www.rabbit.org/joumal/2-12/tly-strike.html.

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 Fleas

Like other animals, rabbits are prone to fleas. Fleas can be treated with a trip to

the vet. It is extremely important that your bunny see a rabbit-savvy vet as flea dips can

kill rabbits. A rabbit-savvy vet will know the proper type of flea medication to prescribe.

You should know-and be sure to remember-Frontline should NEVER be used on

rabbits. For excellent information on fleas and why not to use Frontline, join the

Etherbun list and read through the archives. (This is probably a good idea anyway, as

you'll obtain a wealth of information and valuable advice from fellow bunny owners and

experts.)

For more information on harmful flea medications and effective treatments, visit:

• http://www.rabbit.org/chapters/san-diegolhealth/vet_talklfrontline.html

• http://www.rabbitresource.org/libflea.html

• http://www.rabbits.org.uklfrontline.gif

Diarrhea

Before we discuss the impact of diarrhea in a rabbit, it's first important to point

out that rabbits have two different types of droppings: fecal pellets and cecotropes. Fecal

pellets are the little poops you see in your bunny's litter box. They're various sizes

depending on the bunny and are hard. Cecotropes (which aren't feces) are grapelike

clusters your bunny expels at night then eats them, helping to produce necessary

nutrients.

Diarrhea is not common in adult rabbits. In fact, if your bunny has what you

believe is diarrhea, you should take a sample of it and her normal pellets to a rabbit-savvy

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vet. Diarrhea is often a result of roundworms or tapeworms. as well as a number of

intestinal parasites.

Eye Problems

If your bunny has runny eyes. you'll need to make an appointment to get her

checked by a bunny savvy vet. The clear tears can quickly turn to a white creamy puss if

bacterial infection sets in, which can be very dangerous to your bunny. Your vet will

most likely put your bunny on an antibiotic such as Baytril and also give you eye drops or

cream for your bunny's eyes.

An Example of a Common Eye Infection

Ears

As we discussed in the head tilt section, rabbits are prone to both outer and inner

ear infections which require vet care. Whether you have a Dutch bunny whose ears stick

straight up or your lovable bun is a lop, you'll be interested to know there's no difference

in a rabbit's ears between breeds.

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 Preventing Hairballs

Unlike dogs and cats, rabbits are unable to throw up, Therefore, they cannot spit

up a hairball. In order to prevent hairballs in your bunny, you should brush your bunny

often, especially when they are shedding (which is every three months,) Preventing

hairballs is also one reason unlimited hay is necessary to your bunny's diet as it helps to

move the hair/fur through the digestive tract.

Many people give their bunnies Petromalt or Laxatone, an ointment that is

designed to help prevent hairballs, During shedding season, you can give the ointment

once a day then once a week when your bunny is not shedding,

Some bunnies will simply stick their noses up in the air at the Petromalt or

Laxatone, A surefire way to get your bun to ingest the treatment is to squeeze a little bit

from the bottle onto her one of her paws or her nose, Either way, she's going to want to

clean it off, and the only way to clean it off is to lick the treatment.

Cankers

Rabbits can get ear cankers, Cankers are mite infestations and are very painful for

rabbits. Thankfully, ear cankers can be treated quickly and effectively with an

invermectin shot.

Fear

Rabbits are prey animals by nature, and they frighten easily, In fact, it is possible

for a bunny to be scared to death, For example, someone may find a puppy or dog

chasing a bunny around the yard or the room amusing. The puppy or dog may be playing,

but the bunny doesn't know that. He can literally die from the fright of being chased.

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 The worst sound you can possibly hear from a bunny is a scream. Bunnies scream

when they are scared-and this should be a warning signal to get the bunny and help her

feel safe.

Spaying and Neutering

First time rabbit owners may be surprised to learn that bunnies can-and should,

according to expert consensus-be spayed and neutered just like dogs and cats. There

are still some people today who will debate whether spaying and neutering rabbits is

actually necessary. For a variety of health and other reasons, spaying and neutering

should be done on all rabbits, regardless of whether they are single-home buns or part of

a bonded pair or group.

Spaying a female is necessary to prevent major health issues. Females who are

unsprayed are at high risk of ovarian cancer, uterine cancer and mammarian cancer.

Spaying and neutering your rabbits will help curb their aggression. Many bunny

owners have found that when their bunnies hit a certain age-between four and six

months of age-they become more aggressive. The bunnies will begin to growl and lunge

at their owners. Some bunnies will cry, and the boys will generally begin to spray. This is

natural because the bunnies have become sexually mature, and their hormones-like a

teenager's-are wreaking havoc in them.

The good news is---{)nceyour bunny is spayed or neutered-you'll have a much

easier time of litter training him or her, and the boys' spraying will stop. (After the

neuter, you may notice your male bunny is still spraying. This is normal, and it will stop

once the hormones in your bunny's system begin to dissipate.)

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 It is extremely important you find a rabbit-savvy vet to perform the spay or

neuter. Most vets prefer to wait until a rabbit is between five (for males) and six months

(for females) of age to perform the surgery. However, it is acceptable to have your male

neutered once his testicles drop.

If your rabbit is two years or older, you'll want herlhim to have a thorough

checkup to ensure she is in clean health before scheduling a spay or neuter. Once a rabbit

has reached six years of age, spaying and neutering-indeed any surgery in general

which requires anesthesia-becomes more of a risk.

A spay or neuter can cost anywhere from $55 and up. Having a female altered

generally costs more because spaying a rabbit is a delicate process. You'll want to ask

your vet plenty of questions prior to the operation to ensure he is fully qualified to

perform the operation. Ask your vet how many rabbits he has seen in the last year and

how many spays or neuters he has performed. Then, ask him his success rate for the

spays and neuters. (Spaying and neutering is generally very safe if a rabbit-savvy vet is

performing the surgery.) According to the House Rabbit Society, if your vet says even

90 percent then you want to find a different vet. Ifhe has lost any bunnies during a spay

or neuter surgery, be sure to ask what caused the death as there may have been

extenuating circumstances such as a previous health condition.

Make sure you feed your bunny prior to surgery. If your vet tells you to have her

fast the night prior to the surgery, you should hear alarm bells. Remember, when a bunny

doesn't eat for 12 hours or more, she risks going into GI Stasis, a potentially deadly

illness. You want to make sure you discuss the care your vet and his staff will give your

bunny after the surgery as well since she'll probably need to spend a night in the hospital.

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 When your bunny returns home after her spay or his neuter, you will need to be

prepared for post-op care. In order to ensure a smooth recovery, vets tend to recommend

the bunny being confined to their cage or pen or a small area for at least a week before

letting them out for their normal run time or allowing them to go back to free range.

Nail Trimming

Your bunny will need her nails trimmed fairly often, and you have two choices

when it comes to trimming nails: you can take her to the vet (though, this admittedly will

get expensive,) or you can trim them yourselves.

To trim your bunny's nails, you'll need a good pair of clippers. You can find

specialized bunny clippers at any pet store like Petco, Pet Supplies Plus or PetSmart. (In

fact, they are very similar to the clippers sold to trim cat's nails, so you could also use

nail clippers for cats, if you want.) Or, you can use a pair of old-fashioned nail clippers

that you use for trimming your own nails.

Make sure when you're ready to trim your bunny's nails that you have the

clippers, the flour (just in case you hit a vein,) and some bunny owners suggest a towel to

wrap your bunny in, making it difficult for her to squirm and try to get away. The more

you trim your bunny's nails, the more you'll discover what works best for you and your

bunny.

There are several ways you can trim your rabbits nails. First, if there is someone

else with you, you can have that person securely hold your bunny-wrapped in a towel

(to prevent scratching) while you trim the nails. You can also sit the bunny on the floor,

gripping her between your legs. This makes it easy to trim the nails on the front paws, but

you'll need to be creative to get the nails on the back part.

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 When trimming the nails, look for the line that indicates a vein. If your bunny has

dark nails, you may not be able to see it. If you can see it, do not trim into the vein or

beyond. If you cannot see the vein, simply trim a little bit. This way, you won't

accidentally hit a vein; however, you might have to trim the nails more often.

You can order an in-depth video on how to trim your bunny's nails if you find it

too difficult of a task: http://www.rabbitcare.org/nail.html. Or, you can visit

www.rabbit.org, and click on "Care" then on the link "Nail Cutting Video."

Emergency Kit

Emergencies can happen any time, and you'll probably have one-like most

bunny owners-at the most inopportune of times: a holiday or a weekend when your

regular rabbit-savvy vet isn't in. Even if your vet is in, you'll find it's important to have

an emergency kit on hand in case of a bunny emergency.

You should include some, ifnot all, of the following items in your emergency kit:

• Baby food or canned pumpkin to mix: Use then when your bunny refuses to eat;

it's easy to get the baby food or canned pumpkin into a syringe.

• Critical Care by Oxbow: the same as baby food and canned pumpkin, you'll use

this when your bunny refuses to eat. However, Critical Care is only available

through your vet's office.

• Gas medication (Simethicone) in case of a gas emergency. Various brands are

acceptable including Gas-X. For a detailed way to administer the medication as

well as for proper dosages, read http://www.bio.miamLedulhare/ileus.html. (The

same article is included under GI Stasis.)

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 • Basic Neosporin (the non-pain relief type.) You can use this if your bunny has a

minor cut or wound.

• Flour: this is the trick if you trim your bunny's nails a little too short, and they

begin to bleed. Simply dip her paw into the flour.

• Gauze and cotton to care for wounds.

• Scissors (to carefully trim the fur surrounding a bunny wound.)

• Syringes of various sizes

• Saline (for washing out eyes in an emergency.)

• Eyedropper (to administer the saline.)

• Heating pad: you'll use this if your bunny goes into hypothermia.

• Tweezers

• Pedialyte: helps keep your bunny hydrated during stasis and bouts of gas.

(http://www.bio.miami.edulhare/ileus.html)

The following links have excellent articles on Emergency Kits for bunnies; some are

quite complicated and explain in explicit detail for what each item in the kit should be

used:

• http://www.mybunny.org/info/emergencykit.htm

• http://www.ontariorabbits.org/healthlhealthinf07.htm

• http://www.sonic.netl-snevelldocuments/emergency kit

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 Breeds of Rabbits

You've found the perfect rabbit, but you're not sure what breed she is. How do

determine her breed? You can simply ask the person whom you adopted her from, or you

can ask your rabbit-savvy vet. A search on the Internet of "'rabbit breeds" will bring up

many sites where you can scroll through pictures to find one that matches your bunny.

It is important to note there are many bunnies who are mixed breeds. When you

pick the right bunny for you, you should really do so based on personality and demeanor

rather than by breed. Because you've heard a couple of bad stories about dwarf bunnies

being skittish, it's detrimental to assume all dwarf bunnies are skittish. Just as with

people, rabbits are individual and have their own personalities that cannot be judged

based on their breed.

Despite their breed, all rabbits need the same high level of care as discussed in

this book. All bunnies need unlimited hay. All need love, attention and proper care. All

need to be groomed regularly, although special attention needs to be paid to rabbits with

long hair like Angoras and Jersey Wooleys. All are at risk for the same health ailments.

Let's take a look at some of the popular breeds of rabbits:

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• American rabbits are relatively new, having made their first appearance in the

United States in 1917. You can find American rabbits in both a bluish color and

white. American rabbits can weigh as much as I I pounds.

• Angoras are absolutely adorable rabbits-native to Ankara, Turkey-who can be

as small as five pounds and as large as 12 pounds. Angoras need to groom

regularly because of their long, lovely hair. It's absolutely essential that you

groom your Angora frequently to prevent hairballs and stasis. You can even take

your Angora to the groomer for a trim. Check them out at

http://www.angorarabbit.com/photos/ .

• Californian are easy to spot with their pure white body complemented by black

ears, a black nose, black feet and a black tail. This beautiful breed originated in

the United States in 1928. If you adopt a Californian, you can expect her/hirn to

weigh anywhere from eight to ten pounds. See a Californian at

http://www.centralpets.net/pages/photopages/mammals/rabbits/PHOTO RET 141

9.shtml.

• Checkered Giants have a mysterious past; popular belief is the breed was born of

a Flemish Giant and a wild Gennan rabbit. The first Checkered Giant landed in

the United States in 1910. Expect a big bunny when you adopt a Checkered Giant;

most weigh a minimum of II pounds. See a photo at

http://www.centralpets.com/pages/crittemages/mammals/rabb its/RET I462.shtm I.

• Dwarf rabbits are popular for their small size. Dwarfs tend to have a lot of energy

and can come in a variety of colors from black to a reddish tint. Dwarfs can be as

tiny as two pounds.

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 • Dwarf Hotots are known for their distinct, eye-catching markings. Many dwarf

hotots have black or gray "eyeliner" around their eyes and black or gray at the top

of their ears. Dwarf hotots were first found in Germany but didn't make their first

appearance in the United States until 1981. Dwarfhotots can weigh anywhere

from two and a half to five pounds. You can see a dwarfhotot at

http://home.earthlink.net/-bunny2u/idI8.htm (the second picture down the page.)

• Dutch rabbits are popular rabbits, having originated in Holland. They are

relatively small rabbits, between three and five pounds once they are adults. You

can see more photos of Dutch bunnies at

http://www.geocities.com/EnchantedForest/6949/pics.html.

• English Spot originated in England in the 1800s and is said to be one of the

oldest breeds in the world. An adult English spot will generally weigh between

five and eight pounds. A picture of the English Spot can be seen at

http://www.centralpets.net/pages/critterpages/mammals/rabb its/RBT 1422 .shtml.

• Flemish Giants are just that: giants amongst rabbits. Flemish giants can get as big

as 28 pounds, the size of a small dog. These adorable bunnies date back to early

20'h century America. Check out the adorable Flemish Giants at

http://community.webshots.com/album/8 16704 73weA jhg.

• Himalayans are relatively small bunnies, weighing a little over three pounds.

• Holland Lops are popular because of their adorable ears which hang down to

their sides, unlike most bunnies whose ears stand straight up. Like the Dutch

bunny, Holland Lops come from Holland. The first Holland Lops were introduced

in 1949. You can expect your Holland Lop to weight anywhere between two to

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 five pounds. You can see pictures of the Holland Lop at

http://www.geocities.comlhollandstandard/pagel.html.

• Jersey Wooleys were introduced in the 1970s in New Jersey (thus, the name

"Jersey Wooleys." Jersey Wooleys have long woolen fur, and they are small

rabbits, approximately three pounds. You can see photos of Jersey Wooleys at

http://www.geocities.com/EnchantedF orestIMounta in/7 4001.

• Mini-Lops are extremely popular because of their floppy ears. These buns

average five pounds, and in the United States, they date back to 1972. To see

photos of Mini-Lops, visit http://www.nmlrc.20m.com/pageI0.htm!.

• Mini-Rexes are known for their extremely soft, velvet-like fur. Mini-rexes are

relatively small bunnies weighing approximately four to four-and-a-half pounds,

and they were first introduced in the United States in 1988, making them a fairly

new breed.

• Netherland Dwarfs are truly tiny bunnies, weighing in at approximately two

pounds. These little furballs first became popular in the United States in 1969, and

you can find Netherland Dwarfs in more than 30 different colors. To see photos of

the Netherland Dwarf, check out:

http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Valley/4287/photos.htm I

• New Zealand rabbits are absolutely beautiful; many are pure white with pink

eyes. The New Zealand rabbit originated in the United States in the I920s. When

you adopt a New Zealand. you can expect a full-grown rabbit of 10 to 11 pounds.

See a photo at

http://www.centralpets.netlpages/critterpages/mammals/rabbi ts/RS T 1436. shtm I.

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 • Silver Marten are medium-sized rabbits, generally black and silver in color.

Silver Martens are usually between seven and nine pounds. To see more photos,

visit http://www.napanet.netl-jbtucker/silvermarten/smrc.html.

Breeding

Breeding is both a popular and controversial practice today. Before you decide

whether breeding is a responsibility you want to undertake, read everything you can on

the subject and also talk to your local animal shelters and rabbit rescue organizations.

They can give you a good idea of why you should reconsider breeding.

If you do decide breeding is for you, you'li want to make sure you have the time

and adequate finances to care for both the parents and the baby bunnies. Yet bills can be

hefty, and you'll have to provide adequate shelter and food for the bunnies.

Also, do you have an understanding of the overpopulation of rabbits? A million

rabbits are euthanized every year, and that number is only going to grow in the coming

years. Why do you want to breed rabbits? If your answer is "just for fun," you need to

seriously reconsider breeding.

You should also consider that breeding rabbits to "sell" essentially isn't worth the

money or the effort. You're going to spend much more money on vet bills and food for

the bunnies than you will in selling them. If you absolutely must breed, ensure that you

do so properly and with great care. Also, remember females who are not spayed have an

80 percent chance of developing ovarian cancer.

Rabbits breed very quickly. A female can have a litter of as many as nine babies

each month. They can have as many as 200 baby bunnies in one year. In fact, females can

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get pregnant again as quickly as 24 hours after giving birth. You can rest assured if you

put an unneutered male in the same living space as an unspayed female, he will mount

her constantly. That's just what his hormones tell him to do. If you have to unaltered

rabbits, they will be mating unless the female objects. If the female objects to the male's

moves, there can be serious fighting and possible death for one of the rabbits.

Always house female and male rabbits separately when you're going to breed

them. Make sure you bring the female to the male's living quarters: this is simply because

rabbits are very territorial, and the female will likely attack the male when he is put in her

area. The male, however. will be so happy for the female's presence in her area that he's

not going to remember anything about being territorial.

You'll know when the two have mated because the male will thump his hind legs.

At this point, you want to immediately take the female out and hold her to assure she

doesn't urinate. Then, put her back in her area. Bring her back to the male in an hour or

so, and begin the process again.

You'll be able to tell if the female is pregnant a few days after conception.

Because her hormones are wreaking havoc with her, she will become moody and

aggressive. You'll also be able to feel her nipples growing. Continue to feed her

unlimited hay, fresh greens and limited pellets. The mom-to-be should be housed

separately for her own health and comfort.

You should expect the babies to be born approximately 31 days after conception,

so make sure you keep a calendar of the expected due date. You also want to make sure

you have time to devote to the bunnies at this time. Five days prior to the expected birth.

you'll want to put a nest box-with hay or soft rags-in the female's living area. During

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 the female's pregnancy, you'll also notice she is pulling her fur out and lining the nest

box and living area with it-this is for her babies.

Once the babies are born, their mom will clean them off. Then, you should

remove them from the living area to check on their conditions and take away any babies

who did not survive. You need to keep the baby bunnies away from their mom, to ensure

she doesn't accidentally hurt them. (They will not see their father either.) Keep the nest

box with the bunnies inside then take them to nurse from their mom in the morning and

in the evening each day.

However, some breeders prefer to keep the babies with their mom upon birth. It

all depends on individual preference. If you happen to adopt a pregnant rabbit who gives

birth to babies. you'll want to keep the mom with her babies. If this is the case, contact

the House Rabbit Society or post a message to Etherbun for advice.

You'll notice the bunnies are born with their eyes closed and naked. Their fur will

begin to grow immediately, but it takes time to fill out. The babies will begin opening

their eyes when they are between 10 and 13 days old.

You'll want to make sure the babies continue to nurse until they are at least two

months old. During the period between birth and two months, the babies will start acting

like bunnies. By the third week of their lives, they'll want to start exploring outside of the

nesting box. Make sure you have a flat, comfortable surface for them to run around on.

You don't want them to stand on wires because they have tiny feet that could easily get

stuck, causing them injury. Refer to the "Diet" section for ages the bunnies can begin

eating pellets, hay and fresh vegetables and fruit.

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 When the babies are seven weeks old, you'll want to allow them to nurse from

their mother only every other day, in order to prepare them for the weaning stage. When

they are two months old, you'll want to wean them completely from their mother's milk.

Breeding experts advise that keeping the mom and her babies in separate living quarters

is best.

You can tell a male from a female when the male's testicles drop. However, there

are other ways you can do to properly sex your bunny. To see illustrated photos of how to

sex your bunny, read http://www.cs.cf.ac.uk/Rabbits/rabsex.html.

Start putting the babies in different living quarters when they are approximately

three months old. and you can begin to decide which bunnies you are going to keep and

what you are going to do with the rest. (Of course, you should have already made this

decision prior to beginning the breeding process.)

For more information, please read the following articles on breeding rabbits:

• http://www.bio.miamLedulharelbreeding.html(To Breed or Not to Breed)

• http://www.rabbit.org/adoption/why-not-to-breed.htm I

• http://www.vrra.org/rabbitsIOl.htm(Scroll down to the "Breeding"

section.)

• http://www.bunnvheaven.co.uklbodybreedingandbabvrabbits.html

• http://www.rabbitadoption.org/breed.html

• http://www.mybunny.org/info/spayneuter.htm

• http://www.coloradohrs.com/breeders.asp

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 Showing Rabbits

Showing rabbits is both a popular and controversial hobby in which many people

participate. When a breeder breeds rabbits for show, they'll go through a "culling"

process upon birth of the babies. There are those bunnies who are "quality" for showing;

those who will be sold as pet and those who will be euthanized because of what breeders

call genetic problems. These genetic problems are often easily solved as trimming the

bunny's teeth each month or having the problem teeth removed, so sadly many bunnies

are killed for little reason except they do not meet standards of a show judge.

Breeders also cull rabbits who are adults for a variety of reasons including not

having the proper color or markings, health problems and aggression. This is one of the

many reasons showing rabbits is such a controversial topic.

If you do decide to show rabbits, please ensure your rabbits are treated properly,

and make sure they have a cage that is at/east four times as big as they are. Many times

rabbits are improperly housed in cages where they can barely tum around, and there is no

room for food bowls or a water bottle. After the show is over, you're likely to see many

of the rabbits for sale for a sum as paltry as one dollar. [fthey are not sold, there is no

telling the fate of these rabbits. Also, many undoubtedly go with people intending to use

them as snake food, an extremely terrifying, painful way for a rabbit to die.

[fyou don't want your rabbit after showing, please take her to an animal shelter

where she has the chance to find a loving home. If, at the very worst, she is euthanized. at

least it will be done gently and kindly, unlike being strangled by a snake or left to fend

for herself in the wild.

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 If you want to show your rabbit, you'll need to make sure she meets the strict

stands of The American Rabbit Breeders Association. The ARBA holds shows across the

country throughout the year. Their website is located at http://www.arba.netland includes

a plethora of information on locations and dates of shows, including how to attend their

annual conference. You'll find all the information-including how to put on your own

rabbit show-at the ARBA.

The National 4H Club often has rabbit shows. and children are often involved in

raising and showing rabbits as part of a club project. To learn more, visit http://wwwA-

h.org/.

For more information on how to show rabbits, visit

• http://www.geocities.com/metrorabbit2000/page4.html

• http://revolution.3-cities.com/-fuzyfarm/Show-rab.htm

How do you say rabbit/bunny in ... ?

French: lapin

Spanish: el conejo/el conejito

German: hasehiischen

Italian: coniglio/coniglietto

Dutch: het konijn

Portuguese: coelho/coelhinho

Russian: KPOllHK

Norwegian: kanin

Chinese: U U

Greek: kouneli/kounelaki

95
CuteIPopularlFun Bunny Names

• Bugs

• Thumper

• Puddles

• Midnight

• Riley

• Stormie

• Pippin

• Noel

• Piper

• Holbrook

• Willow

• Cocoa

• Maybelline

• Oreo

• Dezzi

• Pepper

• Cherub

• Romeo

• Hershey

• Hayley

• Velvet

• Tinkerbell

96
• Juniper

• Dutch

• Tuxedo

• Patches

• Sadie

• Tyler

• Duchess

• Harvey

• Pumpkin

• Angel

• Binky

• Hopkins

• Snowball

• Peanut

• Dakota

• Dash

• Hopper

• Nutmeg

• Smokey

• Chance

• Satine

• Shadow

• Snuggles

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 • Thumbelina

• Flopsy

• Marshmallow

• Gatsby

• Jade

• Frodo

• Arial

• Rex

• Mittens

• Zuzu

• Halo

• Onyx

• Sabrina

• Belle

• Noir

• Bailey

• Q-Tip

• Nibbles

• Daisy

• Merry

• Tricycle

• Oscar

• Zoey

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 • Pepper

• Sundance

• Hopson

• Ripley

• Trance

• Sweetpea

• Charm in

• Noah

• Bunster

• Silver

• Bumper

• Rascal

Did you know .•.

• Rabbits are nocturnal.

• Neither wild nor domestic rabbits hibernate .

• A rabbit may tear apart her cage out offrustration? If your bunny isn't spayed or

neutered, you should get her/him altered as soon as possible.

• Rabbits can't throw up. They can gag, but they can't vomit.

• Rabbits can snore?

• Rabbits can jump 36 inches and higher. Rabbits are excellent at jumping.

• Wild rabbits can be found on every continent except Australia and Antarctica.

• Wild rabbits sleep in burrows.

• A group of rabbits is called a herd.

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 • Less than 10 percent of all abandoned wild baby rabbits survive.

• You can learn more about what to do if you find an abandoned baby bunny or

bunnies by reading http://www.ntrs.org/wild.htm.

Rabbits and Abuse

There are plenty of horror stories about domestic rabbits from poaching to

unwanted bunnies being tossed from cars or simply left in parks to fend for themselves.

There's no answer as to why these things happen, but there is something you can do.

When you read articles (like the ones following), and if they enrage you, write a letter.

The more people who express their anger and concern, the more likely change will take

place.

You can also volunteer at your local animal shelter or rescue organization. Join

the House Rabbit Society, and become an educational volunteer. There is plenty you can

do to bring abuse of rabbits to the forefront.

The following articles are some of the big stories of the past year regarding

mistreatment of rabbits:

• http://www.longislandpress.com/vOI/iI7030508/pets.asp (Warning: this is a

graphic story about horrible rabbit abuse and the legal aftermath, which is

ongoing.)

• http://www.sonic.netl-snevellbabllmsg00727.html(This is the story of Samosa-

a beautiful house rabbit thrown from car in San Francisco.)

• http://www.dfw.com/mld/dfw/living/7824087.htm (This article is about the

newest fad in fashion: rabbit fur coats. The coats are being made by rex rabbits,

long popular in bunny lover's homes.)

100
Rabbit Groups

There are many online groups you can join to discuss your bunny's health,

behavior and other fun stuff. Check out:

• www.hopline.com

• http://www.rabbitnetwork.org/

• [email protected]

• http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AngoraHouseBun/

• http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HouseBun/

• http://groups.yahoo.com! group/Bunny- Rabbit- Mai 1/

• http://groups.yahoo .com! grou p/House RabbitDiscussion/

• http://groups.yahoo .com! group/U K-Pet- Rabbits/

• http://groups. yahoo.com! group/therabbitworldl

• http://groups.yahoo.com!group/RabbitVetl

• http://groups. yahoo .com/ group/petbunhealth/

• http://groups.yahoo .com/ group/LopRabbitChatl

• http://groups.yahoo .com! group/Rabbits- R-U sf

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 Losing A Bunny

There comes a time when we all must say goodbye to our beloved bunnies. For

some, goodbye comes way too soon because of illness or accident. For others, goodbye

is after many years of love and companionship. Saying goodbye is never easy, and losing

a bunny can be a traumatic experience for anyone who has invited a bunny into his/her

heart.

Many people have gone through the loss of a bunny-and whether it was sudden

or expected-losing your little bun is hard. Many bunny owners go through the normal

grieving process. You might question what you could have done differently. You might

mull over everything little thing you could have changed, especially if this is your first

bunny. This is just a natural process, and it will take time to heal your heart.

But, one day, when you think of your beloved bunny, the ache in your heart will

be replaced with a feeling of peace and a smile, as you remember the bond and happy

memories you shared. The most important thing to remember is you gave your bunny

love, happiness and a beautiful life, and in return, you made a best friend.

Grieving is different for everyone, but you might find talking with other bunny

lovers will help you through the process. Join Etherbun or any other bunny message

board, and post a message. You'll receive an outpouring of love, understanding and an

outlet to share your grief and healing.

There are also many pet loss support groups from which you can seek help. Ask

your vet or look in your phone book for your local pet loss group. You might also want to

check the following sites out as well:

• http://\V\V\V.petloss.com/

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 • hup ://www.in-memory-of-pets.com/

• hup://www.aplb.org/ (Association of Pet Loss and Bereavement)

• http://rainbowsbridge.com/Poem.htm

• http://www.cyberhideaway.com/Rain bow Bridge/

• http://www .rainbowbrid ge.org/

The Rainbow Bridge poem-written by an unknown author-has brought comfort to

many grieving pet owners. If you join a bunny list, and some writes "ATB" next to their

name bunny's name, it means her bunny is "atthe bridge."

Rainbow Bridge

Just this side of Heaven is a place called Rainbow Bridge.

When an animal dies thai has been e;pecially close to someone here. that pet goes
to Rainbow Bridge. There are meadows and hills for all of our special friends so
they can run and play together. There is plenty of jiJOd and water and sunshine,
and ourfriends are warm and comfortable. All the animals who had been ill and
old are restored to health and vigor; those who were hurt or maimed are made
whole and strong again. just as we remember them in our dreams of days and
times gone by.

The animals are happy and content, except for one small thing: they miss
someone very special 10 them; who had 10 be left behind.
They all run and play together, but the day comes when one suddenly stops and
looks into the distance. The bright eyes are intent; the eager body quivers.
Suddenly he begins to break away from the group, flying over Ihe green grass, his
legs carrying him fasler andfaster. YOU have been spOiled. and when you and
your specialfriendjinally meet, you cling together injoyous reunion, never to be
parted again. The happy kisses rain upon your jilce; your hands again caress the
beloved head, and you look once more into the trusting eyes of your pet. so long
gone from your life but never absent from your heart.

Then you cross Rainbow Bridge together "

---Author Unknown

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 Conclusion

And so the journey continues ... will you adopt a house rabbit after everything

you've learned? If you've decided a bunny is right for you and for your family,

congratulations! You are going to have an amazing time learning and bonding with these

splendid animals. You really are for a beautiful experience.

If-after reading this book-you've decided having a bunny just isn't right for

you, you deserve just as many congratulations. You've taken the time to learn all you

could, and you made the best decision possible-for both you and the bunny you may

have adopted.

If you liked this e-book, you might also enjoy: www.GuineaPigSecrets.com - everything

you really need to know about Guinea Pigs in one place! (Guinea Pigs and Rabbits

usually get along well).

104