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 NINA CARDIGAN

TIED IN STYLE
Generous and flowing, a pure linen summer cardigan
is cozy yet polished for all your holiday adventures.

Misses and Women Sizes Included

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 NINA PATTERN
Nina is a loose and flowing short-sleeved cardigan
with tie front detailing. Versatile styling to wear tied,
cascading open, or even as a sarong tied around the
waist. Linen is a natural favorite, soft and quick drying.

Sized for ladies 0/2 to 28/30

Simple instructions for the intermediate sewist.

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 PICTURED: LAURA WEARING IL020 3.5 OZ LINEN IN CERULEAN.
FOLLOW THE LINK HERE TO SHOP THIS COLOR.

Our lovely model Laura is 5’10” and wearing size 4/6 of this pattern with no
adjustments.

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PATTERN DETAILS
NINA CARDIGAN
Sizes: 0/2 to 28/30

- Loose fitting
- Tie front closure
- Short, wide sleeves
- Simple hemmed edges

PATTERN DOWNLOAD FABRICS & SUPPLIES

IMPORTANT: Open this PDF using the Fabrics:
most current Adobe Acrobat Reader [] Main fabric: light or medium weight
to access and print all the included linen. We sampled Emily in our IL020
files and size layers. a lighter weight of 3.5 ounces this
Get it FREE - https://get.adobe.com/reader/ 100% linen is woven with finer threads
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SIZING & YARDAGE

Misses/Women's Size Guide Based on Body Measurements in Inches
Size 0/2 4/6 8/10 12/14 16/18 20/22 24/26 28/30
Bust 33-34 35-36 37-38 39-40 42-44 46-48 50-52 54-56
Waist 25-26 27-28 29-30 31-32 34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48
Hip 35-36 37-38 39-40 41-42 44-46 48-50 52-54 56-58

Finished Garment Measurements - Approximate in Inches

Size 0/2 4/6 8/10 12/14 16/18 20/22 24/26 28/30
Bust 35 37 39 41 45 49 53 57
Waist (high) 26.5 28.5 30.5 32.5 36.5 40.5 44.5 48.5
Hips 42 44 46 48 52 56 60 64
Dress Length 35 35 1/4 35 5/9 35 7/8 36 1/3 36 3/4 37 1/6 37 3/5
Sleeve Inseam 17 3/8 17 7/8 18 3/8 18 7/8 19 3/8 19 7/8 20 3/8 20 7/8

Estimated Yardage - 54" Width Linen - Shrinkage Has Been Calculated

3 yards all sizes

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PATTERN & CUTTING GUIDES
PATTERN PIECE REFERENCE

A: FRONT
CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”
C
B B: BACK
A CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”

C: SLEEVE
CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”

CUTTING LAYOUT EXAMPLES

FOLD CROSSGRAIN
Layout example size 4/6.
SELVAGES
SELVAGES

CUT EDGES

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SEWING & PREPARATION TIPS:
Sewing with quality linen from Fabrics-Store is very enjoyable! Linen is a stable fabric
that does not easily shift or slip, which is a very helpful characteristic for sewing a neat
and even seam with little effort. You do not need to “push” or “pull” the fabric while
sewing... just simply guide it.

Pre-washing: You will want to prewash and dry your linen fabric in the same manner
you would your finished garment. This will soften your fabric, and eliminate further
shrinkage in your final garment.

Some prefer to wash their fabric twice in hot water to ensure all possible shrinkage has
occurred. If you plan on only dry cleaning your final garment, likewise you will want to
dry clean the fabric before cutting and sewing. Secure the raw edges with a zig-zag or
serger stitch before washing to avoid fraying. You may also sew the two raw edges
together to form a continuous piece to avoid twisting in the wash. Remove fabric
from dryer while it is still slightly moist. Press any deep creases or wrinkles using your
iron’s steam setting with high heat, using a protective press cloth if needed to avoid
scorching.

Fine Seaming: To ensure that your seaming will last as long as your linen garment, we
encourage “single-needle” tailoring and French seaming. Once you think of French
seams as simply sewing the seam twice to encase the raw edges, you will see that it
does not take that much more time than the second step of using a serger. Setting the
stitch length on your sewing machine to 2mm (about 12-14 stitches per inch) makes
for a very durable seam, and is also an attractive indication of fine tailoring.

Alternate Seaming: If you instead prefer to stitch your seams regularly and serge the
raw edges, simple sew the seams with the full 5/8” allowance. You can then serge the
raw edges, allowing the machine to trim 1/8” off the edges. This will result in seam
allowances finishing at 1/2”.

Pressing: For best results, it is highly recommended that you press your seams as you
finish sewing each of them. Pressing with a steam iron (and press cloth if needed) will
help “set” the stitches into the fabric. You will find it is much easier to press your
seams “as you go” instead of trying to press them all after the garment is finished.

Sewing Glossary: If certain sewing terms and techniques are new to you, please refer
to the sewing glossary at the end of this document.

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SEWING INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Sew shoulders with French seams. 3. Sew the inseams of the sleeves.
Seam allowance is a total of 5/8”. Press the finished seam neatly to
With wrong sides together, sew a the front. By having the side seams
1/4” seam. Turn the fabric on the pressed to the back and the sleeve
edge of the seam so right sides are inseams to the front, this will avoid
together. Press neatly. Sew another bulk under the arms.
seam 3/8” to encase the previous 4. Attach the sleeves. A French seam
seam and raw edges. You may still works very nicely in armholes.
alternatively sew plain seams with
5. Hemming: Staystitch a scant 1/4”
serged or zig-zag edges to prevent
around the front neckline and hems
fraying. Unless otherwise indicated,
of the body and sleeves. Press
all seams are 5/8” allowances and
under 1/4”
intended for French seaming.
6. Turn the edges a second time, 1/4
2. Sew the back and side seams.
to 3/8” and press. Topstitch.
Press the finished seam neatly to
the back.

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Glossary:
Basting Stitch: A temporary hand or French seam: A seam sewn in two steps to
machine loose or long stitch to hold a encase the raw edges of the fabric within
seam in place before sewing the final itself, giving a clean finish. 1- Wrong sides
permanent stitching. together, sew 1/4” seam. 2- Turn right
sides together, stitch 3/8” seam. Total
Bias grain: In woven fabrics, this is the 5/8” seam allowance.
diagonal direction at 45 degrees to the
grain and crossgrain. There are two bias Grainline- cross grain: The direction of
directions in the cloth, perpendicular to fabric going from selvage edge to selvage
each other. edge. In woven fabric, these would also be
known as the weft threads of the weave.
Buttonhole: A slit in the fabric to fasten
a button. The raw edges of the slit are Grainline- on grain: The direction of fabric
finished with a machine or hand sewn zig- running parallel to the selvage edge of
zag stitch. the cloth. This is also referred to as the
“lengthwise grain”. In woven fabric, these
Ease stitch: A row of stitching sewn just would also be known as the “warp” threads
to the inside of a single layer of seam of the weave.
allowance. While stitching, coax the
weave of the fabric with your finger or Notch- outward: Markings on the pattern
stylus to “compress” the fabric together. that indicate an outward triangular cut
This creates a “gathering” effect without outside the seam allowance. Notch
puckers. If desired, a second row of markings will be arranged to show where
stitching can be done for more ease. two seam edges join properly together.
A single wedge will often indicate a front
Edge stitch: A row of top stitching very piece, and 2 to 3 wedges together can
close to a seamed edge or folded edge, indicate back pieces.
usually about 1/16th of an inch.
Notch- snip: Markings on the pattern
Fabric- right side: The side of the fabric that indicate a small “snip” into the
which will be the exposed, outside part of seam allowance. Notch marking will be
a garment. arranged to show where two seam edges
join properly together. A single notch will
Fabric- wrong side: The inside of the fabric often indicate a front piece, and 2 to 3
which will be the unexposed side or inside notches together can indicate back pieces.
of a garment.

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Glossary (continued):

Overlock machine: A specialized sewing Stay stitch: A row of stitching on a

machine designed to sew and cut along single layer of the seam allowance edge
the raw edge of a fabric seam with a to prevent stretching. You are neither
networked stitch to secure the edges from pushing or pulling the fabric- just guiding.
fraying. Also known as a ”serger” machine. The row of stitching will be just to the
inside of the permanent seam allowance
Press cloth: A piece of cloth used to lay width. For example, if the seam allowance
over a garment to protect it while ironing is 5/8”, your stay stitch will be 1/2” or a
from burning or scorching. Usually made “scant” 5/8”. You will want your permanent
of cotton or linen or wool. stitching to conceal the stay stitch.

Raw edge: The cut edge of fabric. If not Understitch: A row of stitching on a the
secured with stitching or a finishing, the seamed edge of facing. This prevents the
raw edge of a fabric can fray or unravel. facing from rolling out to the outside and
keeps it neatly in place along the garment
Seam allowance: The distance from the edge. The stitching will only go on the
cut edge of a pattern piece to the sewing facing side, catching the seam allowance
line. Seam allowances can vary, so be sure with it. The stitching will show on the
to double check the indicated amounts on facing, but not on the garment side.
your pattern.

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 Thank you
We work hard on making our patterns beautiful enough to
meet your standards.

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send us your comments to [email protected]

Pattern and illustrated instructions

by Catina Ferraine
for Fabrics-Store.com

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