Chapter 12 Vocab

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Bloomer

The bloomer consisted of a knee-length skirt worn over Turkish trousers, which were
wide pants drawn in at the ankles. These were started by American Feminist women.
Previous to the bloomer, women wore heavy skirts with many layers that were thought
to cause health issues. The garment was named after Amelia Bloomer, a suffragette
who was considered a fashion advocate and actively worked to change women’s
clothing. Amelia Bloomer however was not the one to invent this piece of clothing.

Cage Crinoline

A crinoline is a stiff or structured petticoat designed to hold out a skirt. It was originally
made from horsehair and cotton or linen for the underskirts or dress lining. Later, these
were replaced by hoop skirts. Cage criolines on the other hand, were patented by R.C.
Milliet in Paris. They were originally made from steel hoops, but could also be found
made from whalebone, cane, gutta-percha, and sometimes inflatable caoutchouc, aka
natural rubber. A cage crinoline could reach a circumference of up to six yards. Over
time, cage crinolines reduced in size and were replaced in popularity with the bustle. At
the cage crinoline peak popularity, it could be found used by society's utmost elite, all
the way to your average factory worker.
Carriage Parasol

The root of parasol para means to shield


or protect and Sol means sun so it just means to protect from the sun during this time it
was there so that the owner mainly women could keep their complexion creamy and
spot free and it was very fashionable the difference between umbrellas and parasols is
that umbrellas protect the person from rain where parasols shielded the person from the
sun and if you look at them that's literally their purpose they would not protect anything
from rain ever they would come in all different types of shapes and sizes and colors just
like the dresses you could get them in two colors where the undersides one color and
the top parts a different color I have several of my own because I am really bad with sun
and I am allergic to sunscreen. Specifically the carriage parasol, it had that hinge in
between so that it could be folded up

Corset Cover

Corset covers became popular in women’s fashion by 1840 and became commonly
worn by 1860. Women would usually own more than one corset cover. The reason for
this is because of the perspiration and soil they would endure throughout the day.
Corset covers would be chosen by the women for her to wear depending on the fabric it
was made from. It would also depend on the occasion. Specific fabrics were worn on
specific occasions.
Fichu

It is a triangular or square covering for dresses with low necklines or a shawl that
drapes over the shoulders. They were usually made of white cotton or linen and
embroidered with whitework, Some were made out of colored silks and tied in the front.
Sometimes called a neckerchief or Handkerchief soft and flimsy. Sometimes they were
secured with a brooch at the decollete neckline to hide the closure. This style continued
into the 19th century but as fashions changed they weren't needed and just became
accessories like shawls.

Frock Coat - Joey Gifford

The frock coat, a formal men's garment, gained popularity from the 1830s to the 1910s. The frock
coat features a knee-length skirt and a collared design, which is buttoned to the waist. Symbolizing
British masculinity, it became iconic during the Victorian era. Evolving from earlier styles, it
resembled a female silhouette. Although declining after World War I, it resurged in subcultures like
goths and new romantics for its historic appeal.
Knickerbockers

Knickerbockers were baggy breeches or short pants/knee pants that gathered below the
knee. They are also referred to as knickers. They were very very common in those
days, first among boys and then adopted by men and later by women. We can still see
them today in sports. Think of some baseball players or sports officials. The New York
Knicks, an NBA basketball team gets their name from the settlers that came to New
York wearing these trousers. They were very practical for the heat or for physical labor
and activities, thus making them a favorite and very common among the people at the
time.

Levis

Levi’s were named after their creator, Levi Strauss. He made durable jeans for miners during the
gold rush who tore their pants and ruined them quickly. Levi’s were marketed with an image of
two horses attempting to pull apart the pants starting from 1886. Levi’s also said: “The only kind
made by white labor” after the 1882 Chinese Exclusion Act. Levi’s were the creation of the
generic blue jeans clothing associated with outdoor work or play.
Middy Blouse

Also known as the sailor shirt, this blouse was mainly worn by children as school
uniforms. One famous example is the Von Trapp family appearance in The Sound of
Music. Made of lightweight cotton and duck fabric (jean fabric). For a better mental
picture, imagine a classic anime girl school outfit. This outfit started in the British Royal
family, and spread like wildfire in active sportswear then went to fashion.

Pagoda Sleeves

The pagoda sleeves were sleeves on dresses in which were characterized by a narrow
shoulder opening which would expand to a very wide cuff and it would often have two
tiers of fabric in which would overlap at the elbow of the dress. They were very flattering
and feminine looking. They were made out of such fabric as batiste, cambric, fine
muslin, grenadine, netting, and tulle. They were a very popular accessory to the people
in the 19th century.
Princess Dress

The "princess line" style, which originated in the mid-19th century, is a key example.
Introduced by designer Charles Frederick Worth, this style featured a fitted bodice and a
continuous line that extended from the shoulder to the hem, eliminating the need for a
distinct waist seam. This design highlighted a more natural silhouette and was inspired
by Princess Alexandra of Denmark, who married into the British royal family in 186 .The
history of princess dresses is a fascinating journey through fashion trends influenced by
royalty and popular culture. The "princess line" style, which originated in the mid-19th
century, is a key example. Introduced by designer Charles Frederick Worth, this style
featured a fitted bodice and a continuous line that extended from the shoulder to the
hem, eliminating the need for a distinct waist seam. This design highlighted a more
natural silhouette and was inspired by Princess Alexandra of Denmark, who married into
the British royal family in 186 . In the 20th century, Disney played a significant role in
shaping the iconic image of princess dresses through its animated films. Beginning with
Snow White in 1937, Disney's princess dresses combined elements of 18th and 19th-
century European ball gowns with 1950s fashion silhouettes. This blend created a
timeless and universally appealing look that has endured in popular culture. Today,
princess dresses continue to evolve, balancing historical influences with modern trends.
Whether in historical dramas or animated fantasies, the allure of princess dresses lies in
their ability to evoke elegance, grace, and a touch of magic.
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Raglan Cape

The raglan cape was a round piece of fabric attached to a man’s overcoat. These
were often made from heavy fabrics in order to keep out rain and cold, as well as
providing a fashionable silhouette with the exaggerated width of the shoulders. Raglan
capes mimicked the style of women’s mantles and were mainly used for evening wear.
They protected the elegant suit underneath while a man was on his way to a party or
other formal event.

Raglan Sleeves

This is a type of sleeve that extends into the neckline and connects the shoulder portion
of a top to the sleeve. The construction of this sleeve is different and often considered
easier than that of a set-in sleeve. In some scenarios, the absence of a shoulder seam
can offer more comfort and increase the range of motion. Raglan sleeves can be part of
any garment from coats, dresses, or blouses.
Snood

The popular hairstyle was having middle-parted hair and keeping the hair in a bun at the
lower part of the head. Hair nets, also known as “snoods” regained popularity.
Originating during the Renaissance, these were popular in the crinoline era. These
could be decorated and heald the hair at the back of the neck. Flowers or ribbons could
also be put at the top of the snood, resembling a modern headband.

Zouave

A (zoo- awv) is typically classified as an outdoor garment. It is a short, collarless jacket,


trimmed with braid and often worn over a Garibaldi shirt during the Crinoline Period.
Zouave jackets derived from the uniforms of Algerian troops that fought as part of the
French army. During the U.S. Civil War, a regiment called the Zouaves fought for the
North and adopted, in part, the costume of the French Zouaves.

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