DEVELOPMENT OF AROMA TEXTILES

USING
ESSENTIAL OILS
By
POONAM KUMARI
2010HS71D

Thesis submitted to the Chaudhary Charan Singh

Haryana Agricultural University in partial fulfillment
of the requirements for the degree of

DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY
IN
TEXTILE AND APPAREL DESIGNING

D E P A R T M E N T O F T E X T I L E A N D A P P A R E L D E S I G NI N G
I.C. COLLEGE OF HOME SCIENCE
CCS HARYANA AGRICULTURAL UNIVERSITY
HISAR ‐ 125 004
2015
 CERTIFICATE – I

This is to certify that this thesis entitled, ‘Development of Aroma Textiles using
Essential Oils’ submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy, in the subject of Textile
and Apparel Designing, to the Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University, is
a bonafide research work carried out by Poonam Kumari (Admission No. 2010HS71D)
under my supervision and that no part of this thesis has been submitted for any other degree.
The assistance and help received during the course of investigation have been fully
acknowledged.

Prof. (Dr.) Neelam M. Rose

(Major Advisor)
Department of Textile and Apparel Designing,
I.C. College of Home Science,
CCS Haryana Agricultural University,
Hisar -125004, India
 CERTIFICATE – II

This is to certify that this thesis entitled, ‘Development of Aroma Textiles using
Essential Oils’ submitted by Poonam Kumari (Admission No. 2010HS71D) to the
Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I.C. College of Home Science, Chaudhary
Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar in partial fulfillment of the requirements
for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy, in the subject of ‘Textile and Apparel Designing’
has been approved by the Student’s Advisory Committee after an oral examination on the
same.

MAJOR ADVISOR EXTERNAL EXAMINER

HEAD OF THE DEPARTMENT

DEAN, POST-GRADUATE STUDIES

 CERTIFICATE –III

FORMAT FOR P. G. THESIS

“It is certified that the thesis submitted by Ms. Poonam Kumari, Adm. No.
2010HS71D, Ph.D. student of this department has been checked and found as per
specification of the format circulated by the Dean, PGS vide his Memo No. PGS/A-
1/09/6926-90 dated 26.8.2009”.

MAJOR ADVISOR

HEAD OF THE DEPARTMENT

 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
First of all, I bow my head before Almighty, for his graceful blessings at every step without which
nothing could have been accomplished. I express my profound sense of gratitude and indebtedness to my esteemed
major advisor Dr. Neelam M. Rose, Professor, Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, for her superb
guidance, constant endeavour, creative suggestions, keen interest, painstaking and incessant encouragement, ever
helping attitude and mother like behaviour that has enabled me to accomplish my work successfully. For all her
affection and expertise guidance, I am obliged to her in a special manner and words fail to convey my respect, love
and regard for her.
With sincerity and immense pleasure, I express my indebtedness and deep sense of gratitude to my co-
major Dr. Saroj S. Jeet Singh, Professor, Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, a treasure house of
knowledge and experience. With her knowledge, wisdom and actions she has been a remarkable mentor and role
model. I will forever cherish her memories and teachings and will always remain grateful for the opportunity to be
her apprentice. I exhibit my ingenious regard and fervent thanks to other elite members of my advisory committee
Dr. S. K. Varma, Professor, Extension Education & Communication Management, Dr. Rajvir Singh, Professor,
Department of Physics & Chemistry, Dr. Asha Kwatra, Professor, Department of Foods & Nutrition for their
inspiration and critical suggestions for consummating this manuscript successfully.
I am extremely grateful to Dr. P. Punia, Dean, IC College of Home Science for her moral support and
valuable suggestions. Help and cooperation rendered throughout the period of study by Dr. Krishna Khambra
(HOD), Dr. Nirmal Yadav, Dr. Vivek Singh, Dr. Saroj Yadav, Dr. Nisha Sangwan and Mrs. Rakhi Dalal (Textile
and Apparel Designing) during the present endeavour is duly acknowledge. I would also like to thank non-
teaching staff for their help during the course of work.
Thanks are also due to Dr. T. Nanda, Professor, Department of Veterinary Biotechnology, LUVAS,
Hisar, Mrs. Amandeep Kachru, Assistant Professor, TITS, Bhiwani, Mr. B. L. Saini, TITS, Bhiwani, Dr. Ajit Singh,
Professor, Department of Biotechnology, NDRI, Karnal for their kind help and support during the course of
experimental work.
Indeed no words of mine can adequately express my indebtness, affection and regards, I owe for blessing
of my respected In-Laws, Sh. O. P. Pahel and Smt. Kamlesh Pahel, my Parents, Sh. Satbir singh Rathi and Smt.
Nirmala Rathi.
I cannot find words to express my gratitude and affection to my husband, Maj. Sunil Pahel and my
loving daughter Devyanshi for their support, love, patience, sacrifices, and help by putting things in perspective
during all of these years of long hours and hard work.
From the core of my heart, I owe my gratitude to my loving brothers and sisters-in-laws, sisters and
brother-in-law, my loving nephew and niece for their never ending love, good wishes and moral support
throughout my study period.
From the very special corner of heart, I would like to thank my all loving and caring friends Kavita
Saharan, Munesh, Suman Saharan, Sunita Nehra, Anjali Sood, Poonam Kakkar, Pushpa Saini, Geeta Ghaba,
Renu Sheoran, Anshul Sharma and Kiran Sapra for their constant love, help and encouragement. Sincere thanks
are also extended to the learning experience, facilities and merit scholarship provided by the esteemed CCS
Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar.
Still there are many well wishers and friends, who have directly or indirectly rendered help to complete
this academic endeavour. I have got deep sense of reverence for all of them.

Place: Hisar (Poonam Kumari)

Dated: March, 2015
 CONTENTS

CHAPTER NO. DESCRIPTION PAGE (S)

I INTRODUCTION 1-4

II REVIEW OF LITERATURE 5-15

III MATERIAL AND METHODS 16-34

IV RESULTS 35-92

V DISCUSSION 93-109

VI SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 110-113

BIBLIOGRAPHY i-v

ANNEXURES I-XXXIX
 LIST OF TABLES

Table Description Page

No. (No.)

1. Preliminary data of the selected fabrics 35

2. Preferences of the respondents for essential oils for aroma textiles 36

3. Selected essential oils 37

4. Optimization of ratio of essential oils in microcapsule gel 39

5. Optimization of ratio of gum acacia in microcapsule gel 39

6. Optimization of ratio of gelatin in microcapsule gel 41

7. Optimization of temperature for microencapsulation process 41

8. Formation of essential oils microcapsules at different pH 42

9. Optimization of pH for microencapsulation process 42

10. Optimization of the proportion of microcapsule gel in padding bath 44

11. Optimization of the proportion of softener in padding bath 45

12. Optimization of the proportion of binder in padding bath 48

13. Optimization of MLR of padding bath 49

14. Optimization of treatment time of padding bath 50

15. Optimization of drying temperature of treated fabrics 52

16. Optimization of drying time of treated fabrics 54

17. Optimization of curing temperature of treated fabrics 56

18. Optimization of curing time of treated fabrics 57

19. Optimization of concentration of citric acid in padding bath 59

20. Optimization of concentration of resin cross-linking agent in 61

padding bath

21. Optimization of concentration of catalyst in padding bath 63

22. Optimum conditions for application of essential oils on selected 65

fabrics

23. Retention of aroma in treated fabrics after washing 66

24. Retention of aroma in treated fabrics after abrasion 68

25. Retention of aroma in treated fabrics after ironing 70

 26. Retention of aroma in treated fabrics after sun-drying 72

27. Intensity of aroma in treated fabrics after washing 74

28. Intensity of aroma in treated fabrics after abrasion 75

29. Intensity of aroma in treated fabrics after ironing 76

30. Intensity of aroma in treated fabrics after sun-drying 77

31. Preliminary properties of aroma treated woven fabric 80

32. Performance properties of aroma treated woven fabric 81

33. Performance and comfort properties of aroma treated woven fabrics 82

34. Preliminary properties of aroma treated knitted fabrics 85

35. Performance properties of aroma treated knitted fabrics 87

36. Performance and comfort properties of aroma treated knitted fabrics 89

37. Effect of aroma treatment on texture of the selected fabrics 90

38. Effect of aroma treatment on whiteness of the selected fabrics 91

LIST OF FIGURES

Figures Description Page

No. (No.)

1. Retention of aroma in essential oil treated woven fabrics after washing 67

2. Retention of aroma in essential oil treated knitted fabrics after washing 67

3. Retention of aroma in essential oil treated woven fabrics after abrasion 68

4. Retention of aroma in essential oil treated knitted fabrics after abrasion 69

5. Effect of aroma treatment on whiteness of woven fabrics 92

6. Effect of aroma treatment on whiteness of knitted fabrics 92

 LIST OF IMAGES
Plate Description
No.
1. Microcapsules at different ratios of essential oils
2. Essential oils microcapsules at different ratios of gum acacia
3. Essential oils microcapsules at different ratios of gelatin
4. Essential oils microcapsules at different temperatures
5. Essential oils microcapsules at different initial and final pH
6. Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different proportions of microcapsules gel
7. Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different proportions of microcapsules gel
8. Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different proportions of softener
9. Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different proportions of softener
10. Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different proportions of binder
11. Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different proportions of binder
12. Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different MLR
13. Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different MLR
14. Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different treatment time
15. Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different treatment time
16. Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different drying temperatures
17. Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different drying temperatures
18. Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different drying time
19. Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different drying time
20. Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different curing temperatures
21. Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different curing temperatures
22. Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different curing times
23. Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different curing times
24. SEM analysis of aroma treated woven fabrics
25. SEM analysis of aroma treated knitted fabrics
CHAPTER-I

INTRODUCTION

A consumer-oriented twenty first century challenges garment and fabric producers to

come up with innovations which result from the technological advancements, not only to help
in strengthening the existing product line but also to diversify and flourish in new areas (Shah
and Goel, 2010). The consumer’s needs, demands and expectations of a healthier and more
comfortable life are increasing everyday even when it comes to clothing. In recent decade,
people not only focus on using traditional medical practices but also on other complementary
therapies which lead to the quick development of natural therapies such as aromatherapy.
Aromatherapy is one of the fastest growing complementary therapies in this century (Yuen
and Annie, 2010).
Aromatherapy involves deriving essential oils from the plant, has entered into the
lifestyle of many consumers as a well-being solution to the stressful life of the global village
in which we all live. The term ‘aromatherapy’ was coined in the 1920s by a French chemist,
Rene-Maurice Gattefosse, who was considered as the father of modern aromatherapy. He
researched the therapeutic properties of essential oils and increased its further use in therapy
practice to promote physical and psychological well-being. Aromatherapy utilizes the
controlled release of aromas or fragrance to promote feeling of comfort and well being
amongst users. Aromatherapy is a form of alternative medicine in which healing effects are
ascribed to the aromatic compounds in essential oils and other plant extracts (Wang and Chen,
2005). Essential oils which are basic ingredients of aromatherapy are effective to be as an
alternative or complementary to conventional medical practices for conditions such as
anxiety, depression and boosting cellular immune functions as many common essential oils
have therapeutic properties like relive the pain, reduce stress and feel relaxed.
Essential oils are the ethereal fraction obtained by physical means from a plant. These
oils are also known as volatile, ethereal oils or simply as the ‘oil of the plant’ from which they
were extracted. Oil is ‘essential’ in the sense that it carries a distinctive scent or essence of the
plant. Essential oils and plant extracts are assumed to be ecologically sound and there is
generally an absence of unwanted side effects from the use of essential oils (West and
Hitchcock, 2014). The essential oils derived from plants are composed of natural aromatic
molecules endowed with many physiological as well as pharmacological properties, for which
applications are found in almost every field of medicine, not only curatively, but also
preventatively (Steflitsch and Steflitsch, 2008). These oils have two actions i.e. physical on
the mucus membranes through evaporation, inhalation, compression or massage and the
psychological as the nose is directly connected with the limbic system (Anonymous, 2014).

1
 The current 'green' trend is moving away from the use of chemical and non-
sustainable products, in favour of those considered not harmful to nature. In addition to health
and wellness benefits, the replacement of artificial scent with essential oils that are naturally
derived can be considered environmentally responsible. With a growing market share in
herbal products, research shows that the use of essential oils for fragrance are
underrepresented in everyday product applications as compared to chemical fragrances.
Every culture in the history of humankind has embedded scent into textiles. Egyptians
are regarded as the true founders of aromatherapy. In Medieval Europe, herbal and aromatic
substances were used against airborne infections, such as plagues. The burning of herbs in
public places to purify the atmosphere and the wearing of pomanders were common to diffuse
the noxious odours. Odour-modulation textiles can be classified into those that suppress or
enhance odour perception in either a broad or narrow range (Gilbert and Firestein, 2002).
Textile provides an excellent media to transfer the therapeutic effect of aromas to the
human body and provide wellness effect through aromatherapy. Apparel textiles can make the
use of aromatherapy easy to apply where needed due to close proximity to the body. The
addition of fragrance to textiles has been carried out for many years in the form of fabric
conditioners while washing and drying, all are designed to impart a fresh aroma to textile
(Salavica et al., 2005). Fragrance finishing is considered as emerging area and which has
tumble-down the textile industry which enhance the value of the product by incorporating
different fragrances into fabrics, leading to the production of fragranced fabrics which can
affect mood (Kumar et al., 2012). The fragrance applied by use of essential oil not only
provides a pleasant smell but also the beneficial effect of aromatherapy however the fragrance
of essential oil can only be kept on the fabric for a short period of time. Essential oils are
sensitive materials which can easily suffer degradation under the action of oxygen, light and
moderate temperatures. Furthermore, they are insoluble in water and for certain applications a
controlled release is required. Therefore an adequate formulation of the essential oil which
takes into account these aspects is required for commercial applications. Volatile liquids and
solids are easily damaged during long-term use due to their external environment and this
leads to the degradation of mechanical properties and even loss of function. It is very
important to extend the durability and consistence of fragrance on the fabric in order to allow
more long-lasting function. To achieve durable aroma finish on textiles has been a long time
dream for textile chemists (Wang et al., 2009).
Aroma can also be infused onto the fabric by cross-linking of resin with essential oil.
Infused aromatic textiles can be used to bring life balance, using restorative and de-stressing
properties that pamper and energize. In order to infuse a fabric with an essential oil, fragrance
inclusion compounds can be fixed directly onto the fabric with pad-dry-cure method, by the

2
use of squeezing rollers but the effect of aroma on the treated fabrics lasted 2-3 washes. (West
and Hitchcock, 2014).
Another method of infusing fabrics with essential oils is through microencapsulation.
Microcapsules are minute containers that are normally spherical if they enclose a liquid or
gas, and roughly the shape of the enclosed particle if they contain a solid. They generally are
applied as a final finish to the fabric by padding or spraying, because of their minute size they
become interlaced into the fabric. They can be considered a special form of packaging, in a
particulate matter that can be individually coated for protection against the environment and
release the volatile substance from the enclosed capsule as required. Micro-encapsulation can
somewhat effectively control the release rate of the fragrance compounds and essential oils as
required (Wang and Chen, 2005). Through micro-encapsulation, fragrance and essential oils
are able to remain on a garment for a larger part of its lifetime. Micro-encapsulation has been
called the 'holy grail' for most textile applications, as it is easy to apply, does not affect
existing textile properties, and has a shelf-life on a garment that allows careful fabric-care
processes to take place (Nelson, 2002). Microencapsulation effectively controls the release
rate of essential oils, which ensures the storage life of volatile substances.
Combination method of aroma treatment can be applied to retain the essential oils for
longer duration. From an application perspective, as garments are subjected to washing, the
durability of treatment is a major issue. Therefore, the consumer knows the item only has a
certain lifespan, and its overall effect is ever decreasing. It is also important to consider other
finishing process applied to a fabric or garment such as pressing, drying and other as these
can be detrimental to durability and effectiveness of essential oils, which could adversely
affect the other performance properties of the textile. Perfect selection of oils with choice of
fabric must be considered and depends very much on the end use of the garment.
As close friends of humans, textiles can make aromatherapy easy wherever they are
needed. Various products such as fibers, fabrics, non-fabrics and garments can be chosen to
enjoy the pharmaceutical and emotional effects of aromatherapic textiles. The uses of aroma
textiles are diverse. Interior textiles such sheets, quilts-covers, curtains, carpets and bed-
gowns are suitable for the attachment of lavender, chamomile, citrus or cinnamon
microcapsules, which are good for hypgensis and eliminating fatigue. Patients suffering from
high blood pressure felt sedation when they used pillow made of fabric treated with lavender,
lemongrass, basil, rose or jasmine oil, which might have improved their work efficiency
(Agrawal and Goel, 2010). The desire for a healthier and more productive lifestyle will
continue to generate a market for textiles that promote wellbeing. Aromatherapeutic textiles
offer a new challenge and field is wide open to innovation. Aromatherapic textiles containing
effective, long-lasting fragrances can significantly contribute to the textile industry and have
potential for fashion and also must continue to be outward looking and develop textiles that

3
'interact' with the consumer, reducing stress, promoting comfort and relaxation (Nelson,
2002).
This will not only add health benefits to the common masses but will also benefit the
agriculture sector as it will ensure increased cultivation of aromatic plants and enhanced rate
of essential oil extraction. Aroma treatment will add value to cotton and the cultivation,
production and export of cotton will also boost.
So the present study was conducted in order to exploit the aroma and therapeutic
properties of essential oils and their application in textiles with the following objectives:
1. To standardise process of essential oils application to prepare aroma fabrics.
2. To compare the effect of essential oils on properties of treated fabrics.
3. To study the durability of treatment on the fabrics.

4
CHAPTER-II

REVIEW OF LITERATURE

The review of literature revealed that not much work has been conducted on the
development of aroma textiles using essential oils with different methods in India and abroad.
An attempt has been made here to present brief resume of available literature on the issues
relevant to the present study under the following subheadings:
2.1 Properties of Essential Oils and Aromatherapy
2.2 Taxonomy of Selected Essential Oils for Application on the Fabrics
2.3 Development of Microcapsules for Textile Applications
2.4 Application of Aroma Treatment on Textiles
2.1 Properties of Essential Oils and Aromatherapy
Wang and Chen, 2005 found that the uses of aromatherapy textile are diverse.
Interior textiles such as sheets, quilt-covers, curtains, carpets and bed-gowns are suitable for
the attachment of lavender, chamomile, lime or cinnamon microcapsules, which are good for
hypnogenesis and eliminating fatigue. Patients suffering with high blood pressure feel
sedation when they use a pillow made of fabric treated with lavender, basil, lime or fennel
microcapsules. The tired office clerk wearing clothing with a scent of lime, rose or jasmine oil
may find his work efficiency improved.
Kumar, 2006 reported that essential oils consist of chemical compounds which have
hydrogen, carbon and oxygen as their building blocks. They can be essentially classified into
two groups: Volatile fraction: Essential oil constituting of 90–95% of the oil in weight,
containing the monoterpene and sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, as well as their oxygenated
derivatives along with aliphatic aldehydes, alcohols and esters.
Lec and Lee, 2006 studied the effect of lavender aromatherapy on students suffering
from insomnia and depression. The purpose of this study was to explore the effects of
lavender fragrance on sleep and depression in women college students. 42 college girls who
complained of insomnia were studied during a 4 week protocol. It was found through the
interview that aromatherapy had a positive impact on the girls as they felt more fresh and
energetic after being exposed to the oil.
Valnet, 2008 studied the properties of essential oils and it was found that each
essential oil has its own unique properties; many also shared some common therapeutic
actions. All the plants such as eucalyptus, tea tree and thyme were antiseptic to a greater or
lesser degree. Some oils were endowed with antiviral properties as well; garlic and tea tree
being two of the most powerful. Many essences, notably rosemary and juniper, are also
antirheumatic. When rubbed on the skin these stimulate blood and lymphatic circulation and

5
increased oxygen to the painful areas, which in turn aided the elimination of tissue waste (uric
and lactic acids) that contributed to the pain of arthritic and rheumatic complaints.
Agrawal and Goel, 2010 reported that an essential oil is a concentrated, hydrophobic
liquid containing volatile aroma compounds from plants. Essential oils are also known as
volatile, ethereal oils or simply as the ‘oil’ of the plant from which they were extracted, such
as oil of clove. Oil is ‘essential’ in the sense that it carries a distinctive scent or essence of the
plant.
Anonymous, 2010 found that when essential oil was inhaled it went directly from
olfactory system to limbic system of the brain. Brain responded to the particular scent
affecting our emotions and chemical balance. Essential Oils also absorbed by the skin and
carried throughout the body via the circulatory system to reach all internal organs.
Shah and Goel, 2010 designed and developed perfumed lingerie sets using
microencapsulated fragrances. Four popularly used microencapsulated fragrances were
applied on four popularly used fabrics and tested for aroma retention. It was further revealed
that aroma was retained even after 30 cycles of wash, rub and abrasion and perfumed lingerie
were accepted and appreciated by the consumers.
Kaur and Grewal, 2011 developed aromatherapeutic textile products for joint pain.
Fabrics were treated with eucalyptus and jasmine microcapsules and were used for the
treatment of respondents with joint pain. Knee caps and gloves were made for the respondents
out of ribbed cotton fabric. Respondents suffering from joint pain had undergone the wear
trial for 2 months and the results revealed that the developed products had a positive effect on
the emotional state of respondents (85%), improved quality of night sleep (35%), reduced
medicine intake (65%) and decreased local application of gel (50%). It was further
recommended that the aromatherapeutic textile products made with eco-friendly chemicals
like betacyclodextrin as binder and chetosan as sheath with eucalyptus and jasmine essential
oils in core can be used for developing products for the treatment of joint pains. These
products retained their fragrance for atleast 20 wash cycles under controlled conditions.
Anonymous, 2013a believed that aromatherapy is particularly effective for stress,
anxiety, psychosomatic induced problems, muscular and rheumatic pains, digestive disorders
and women's problems such as menopausal complaints and postnatal depression. Lemon
fragrance was used in many banks and offices to keep the staff alert and reduction in mistakes
were reported by a whopping 54%. Aroma systems are now being incorporated into new
buildings. Popular applications include; lavender and palmarosa in customer areas to calm
down the waiting customers and lime and eucalyptus to keep the staff alert.
According to Anonymous, 2013b geranium essential oil had a firm place in
aromatherapy, having sweet and floral fragrance that calms, relaxes and it helped to balance
the body, mind and emotions while stimulating the adrenal cortex and balancing the hormonal

6
system and stimulating the lymphatic system. The scent, sweet and pungent, went right to the
frontal lobe, relieving tension and anxiety. On the other hand, it balanced the production of
sebum in the skin, while keeping it supple and helping with the healing of wounds.
Anonymous, 2014 reported that essential oils are frequently referred to as the ‘life
force’ of plants. These ‘essential’ oils are extracted from flowers, leaves, stems, roots, seeds,
bark, and fruit rinds. The amount of essential oils found in these plants can range from 0.01
percent to 10 percent of the total. These oils have potent antimicrobial factors, having wide
range of therapeutic constituents.
The sedative effects for the pharmaceutical and emotional effects of essential oils are
as follows-
Sedative/Well-being effects of some essential oils
Emotion Essential oils with sedative effects
Anxiety Lemongrass, Chamomile, Rose, Palmarosa, Jasmine, Lime, Geranium
Stimulation Camphor, Balm
Anger Chamomile, Balm oil, Rose, Geranium
Wretchedness Basil, Cypress, Peppermint, Patchouli
Allergy Chamomile, Jasmine, Balm
Distrustfulness Lavender
Tension Camphor, Cypress, Vanilla, Jasmine, Palmarosa, Lemongrass
Melancholy Basil, Lemon, Chamomile, Vanilla, Jasmine. Lavender, Peppermint, Rose
Irritability Chamomile, Camphor, Cypress, Lavender, Lemongrass, Palmarosa
Hysteria Chamomile, Balm, Lavender, Jasmine, Basil, Jasmine, Pine
Desolation Jasmine, Pine, Patchouli, Rosemary

Pharmaceutical effects of some essential oils

Effects Essential oils
Sedation Peppermint, Onion, Lime, Lemongrass, Lavender
Coalescence Pine, Clove, lavender, Onion, Thyme
Diuresis Pine, Lavender, Onion, lime, Thyme, Fennel
Pine, Lavender, Peppermint, Rosemary, Thyme, Basil, Chamomile, Cinnamon,
Facilitating menses
Lernongrass
Dismissing sputum Onion, Citrus, Thyme, Chamomile
Allaying a fever Ginger, Fennel, Chamomile, Lime
Hypnogenesis Lavender, Fennel, Lime, Lemongrass, Palmarosa
Curing hypertension Lavender, Oregano,Basil, Lime, Chamomile
Pine, Ginger, Clove, Peppermint, Onion, Citrus, Rosemary, Thyme, Fennel,
Good for stomach
Basil, Cinnamon
Losing weight Onion, Cinnamon, Lemon , lime
Clove, lavender, Peppermint, Onion, Citrus, Rosemary, Fennel, Basil,
Promoting appetite
Chamomile, Lime
Curing flu Pine, lavender, Peppermint, Onion, Citrus, Rosemary, Thyme, Chamomile.

7
2.2 Taxonomy of Selected Essential Oils for Application on the Fabrics
Thirteen essential oils were selected on the basis of easy availability and cost
effectiveness and out of these thirteen, four essential oils were selected on the basis of aroma
and therapeutic effects. The taxonomy of the essential oils selected for application on the
fabric as under:
2.2.1 Geranium essential oil (Kachnar): Geranium essential oil (Pelargonium graveolens),
synonym Geranium terebinthinaceum and Pelargonium terebinthinaceum of family
Geraniaceae. It is found throughout the temperate regions of the world and the mountains of
the tropics and mostly in the eastern part of the Mediterranean region. Its flower and foliage
are distilled to extract essential oil (Jain et al., 2013). The essential oil of geranium used for
aromatherapy and massage therapy applications. It has sweet and floral fragrance that is
soothing, refreshing, relaxing, calming, sedative, antidepressant, antihaemorrhagic, antiseptic,
deodorant, diuretic, fungicidal, haemostatic, stimulant, tonic, vulnerary, mood-lifting,
balancing and eases nervous tension.
2.2.2 Lime essential oil (Nimboo): Lime essential oil (Citrus aurantifolia), the essential oil
of lime is produced from the ripe peel of fruit through steam distillation. A member of the
Rutaceae family and originally harvested in Asia, limes have spread to other regions,
including Italy, North and South America and the West Indies. Lime essential oil used for
healing, refreshing, relieve from depression, promotes mental alertness, calmness anxiety,
antiseptic, antiviral, astringent, bactericidal, disinfectant, haemostatic, restorative and tonic.
2.2.3 Palmarosa essential oil (Motia): Palmarosa oil (Cymbopogon martinii), synonym
Andropogon martini. This perennial grass is native to South and Southeast Asia, especially
India, and it is cultivated before the flower appears at its top. The grass is usually dried for a
week, and then distilled to attain the most fragrant oil. It has a sweet, floral fragrance with a
hint of rose. This essential oil used for refreshing, calming, uplifting, relieve from stress-
related problems and nervousness, antiseptic, antiviral, bactericide, cytophylactic, digestive
and hydrating effect (Kumar et al., 2007).

2.2.4 Peppermint essential oil (Pudina): Peppermint oil (Mentha piperita) is a native of the
Mediterranean, but is now cultivated in whole world. Peppermint oil has a fresh, sharp,
menthol smell, is clear to pale yellow in color and watery in viscosity. Peppermint oil is
extracted from the whole plant above ground. Peppermint oil is excellent to relieve mental
fatigue, depression, refreshing, improving concentration, apathy, shock, headache, migraine,
nervous stress, vertigo and faintness, relieve skin irritation and itchiness, cooling effect,
treating the respiratory tract, muscular aches and pain.
2.3 Development of Microcapsules for Textile Applications
Nelson, 1991 found that textile industry utilized microencapsulation, a technology
which served as tiny containers of substances. The substance, liquid or solid, was released to
fulfill a specific purpose. It was similar to a capsule in the fact that a coating, referred to as

8
the wall, shell or membrane surrounded the material inside. The content of the microcapsules
could be released in a variety of ways depending on the characteristics of the capsule wall
including physical pressure, friction, diffusion, wall dissolution, and biodegradation. Figure
showed the general structure of a microcapsule which generally consists of two major
components:
1. Active ingredient: An active ingredient is the substance that may be in a liquid or solid
form. It also refers to the core contents, internal phases, encapsulations, payloads or fillers.
2. Wall Shell: A polymer coating that surrounds the active ingredients which may also be
called the wall, shell, external phase, membrane or matrix. It may be natural, semi-synthetic
or synthetic polymer (Cheng et al., 2008).
The release mechanisms of the core contents vary depending on the selection of wall
materials and more importantly the specific end uses. Table demonstrates the relationship
between the textiles end uses and their release mechanisms. The core content may be released
by friction, pressure, change of temperature, diffusion through the polymer wall, dissolution
of the polymer wall coating and biodegradation etc. (Anonymous, 2005; Holme, 2003 and
Sudha et al., 2005).
Choi et al., 2001 prepared microcapsule from tetradecane as core material and
melamine/ formaldehyde (M/F) resin was used to form the shell. It was shown that the
capsules had a high latent heat of fusion, uniform shape and size, excellent durability and
good performance for the potential application in heat transfer.
Lee et al., 2002 successfully synthesized microcapsules containing fragrant oil by in
situ polymerization using melamine/formaldehyde (M/F) as shell material. The encapsulation
efficiency and other physical properties were analyzed with varying formaldehyde/melamine
(F/M) molar ratios and pH of the emulsion medium. The size of particles produced ranged
between 12 and 15 µm. It was found that both pH and M/F molar ratio have influenced the
surface morphology of the microcapsule and the encapsulation efficiency. The liquid phase
separation of methylolmelamines and formation of M/F precursor particles explain the surface
morphology and encapsulation efficiency.
Boh and Knez, 2006 reported microencapsulation development in textile applications
and prepared melamine-formaldehyde microcapsules containing essential oils and phase
change materials. An in situ polymerisation method was used and the process was modified to
achieve the desired characteristics of a microcapsule wall.
Huang et al., 2007 prepared microcapsules using gelatin and gum arabic by
coacervation. The most frequently used cross-linking agent (formaldehyde) in the gelatin–
acacia microencapsulation process was altered by glycerol in this study. They found that the
yield of gelatin–acacia microcapsules decreased at surfactant concentrations above or below
the optimum. Inhibition of coacervation due to high concentrations of surfactants and

9
disturbance of microencapsulation due to high hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) values
have been reported. The report showed the indomethacin microcapsules had the slowest
release rate when the coacervation pH was adjusted to the electrical equivalence pH value and
not to the pH of maximum coacervate yield. Gelatin was only stable at the pH value between
4 and 6
2.4 Application of Aroma Treatment on Textiles
Copete et al., 2005 introduced the invention of chitosan based microcapsules
containing various active components and investigated the durability performance with the
mixture of microcapsules and binding agent. With the effect of finishing using microcapsules
and binder, the active ingredients were released and washed out less quickly and a high
degree of hydration was achieved as well.
Leskovsek, 2005 has made numerous trials have been made at adding fragrances
directly to fibre and fabrics, but the aroma vanished after one or two wash cycles. By the use
of microencapsulation fragrances are retained for a longer period of time. Microcapsules may
contain essential oil flavours like lavender, rosemary, palmarosa, lime, geranium, pine and
other for the effect of aromatherapy. This was used mainly to help insomnia, headache, and to
prevent bad odour.
Li et al., 2005 investigated the effects of UV curing for encapsulated aroma finishing
on cotton. The aroma function was prolonged to 50 wash cycles whereas the traditional curing
method could only withstand 25 wash cycles. If a cotton fabric was finished with the selected
aroma capsule and UV resin and cured under optimal conditions, the aroma function could
withstand 50 wash cycles
Wang et al., 2005 developed aromatherapeutic textiles using fragrance with β-
cyclodextrin inclusion compounds and fixing them onto cotton fabrics with low temperature
by using a conventional pad-thermofixed method. The fragrance release rates were greatly
decreased and the results of sensorial evaluations showed that the performance of the fabric
lasted for over 30 days.
Boh and Knez, 2006 assessed three types of microcapsules for applications in
textiles product namely microencapsulation of antimicrobial essential oils of sage, lavender
and rosemary for nonwoven textile shoe insole. Mechanical testing of shoe insole was
performed by walking on average 3 Km per day for a total distance of 50 Km. Tests
confirmed that the microencapsulation of volatile essential oils enabled a sustained and
prolonged release of essential oils from microcapsules during wearing of shoes.
Lewis et al., 2006 found that microencapsulated aroma could stay on textile for long
periods since capsules greatly reduced the aroma evaporation rate. The effect of three fixing
agents, three kinds of thermal equipment and various curing conditions were studied. It was
reported that acrylic binder demonstrated excellent fixing of fragrance and the conventional

10
hot air tenter and the infrared curing methods produced samples that could withstand at least
25 wash cycles.
Harini et al., 2007 revealed cyclodextrins are the best regarding safety to the human
body because β-cyclodextrin has no skin irritation, no skin sensibilisation and no mutagenic
effect. Cyclodextrins are non-reducing cyclically linked oligosaccharides produced by certain
micro-organisms of cultivated starch, which are capable of forming inclusion compounds with
molecules that fit into their cone-shaped hydrophobic cavity. Furthermore, cyclodextrins
clamped on cellulose do not affect the cellulose’s properties, and cyclodextrins keep their
ability to form inclusion complexes with other suitable molecules. Thus, cyclodextrins are the
first choice in preparing aromatherapy textiles.
Karolia and Mendapara, 2007 revealed that silicon softeners were applied onto
fabrics to give a softer feel. It was revealed that silicon softener caused higher encapsulation
of fragrance than cationic and non-ionic softeners and improved the wrinkle recovery of the
fabric.
Thilagavathi et al., 2007 noticed that microencapsulaton of herbal extracts such as
neem and mexican daisy can be done successfully by simple coecervation technique using
herbal extracts as core material and gum acacia as wall material followed by its application
onto fabric using pad-dry cure method. Durability test comparing microencapsulated and
directly applied herbal extracts revealed that microencapsulated samples retained their
fragrance for more than 15 wash cycles while directly applied herbal extract did not show
much activity after 10 washes, this was because the extracts were coated on the surface.
According to Johansen, 2008 that in the 1700's and 1880's perfumed handkerchiefs
were very popular with the gentry to mask smells from the streets. In 1911 Paul Poiret
sprayed his entire collection with his signature scent ‘Parfums de Rosin’ thus becoming the
first couturier to link branded fashion to a fragrance. Since the late 1980s, modern technology
has enabled microcapsules of perfume in nylon stockings and athletic socks, and permanent,
perfumed nano finishings on cotton children's wear. The Korean textile industry is a leader in
stress reducing fragrant finishings for businessmen's suits and ties and for treating bed linens
to release minute amounts of pine forest scent, shown to encourage relaxation.
Moldenhauer and Resucher, 2008 studied that cyclodextrin had an important
application in the field of textile finishing processes. It was proven that cyclodextrin modified
textiles could either absorb unpleasant odor by complexation of sweat components or release
included guest substances like fragrance or pharmaceuticals over a long period of time. The
investigators also proved that cellulosic materials are especially suitable for the modification
with cyclodextrin. The finish is also fast against washing and cyclodextrin cavity is still
accessible for guest compounds, which can be applied easily.

11
 Fabien et al., 2009 noticed that it was not necessary to have a high concentration of
binder and microcapsules to achieve the best washing fastness. It was essential to determine a
good proportion of microcapsule and binder to limit the loss of coating weight after wash.
Monllor et al., 2009 assessed the presence of fragranced microcapsules on cotton
fabric using different padding applications and concluded that as the concentration of
microcapsules in the padding bath increased their value also increased. The thermal behaviour
of microencapsulated fragrance was studied and noticed that when the temperature was higher
than 120ºC, microcapsules were deflated and damaged.
Muresan et al., 2009 revealed that materials with aromatherapeutic properties were
obtained by the treatment of cotton fabrics with rosemary essential oil, in the presence of
chitosan. FTIR analysis confirmed the presence of the essential oil on the textile material
surface. Chromatic measurements confirmed the controlled release of the rosemary oil. The
samples treated with rosemary essential oil present maximum smell intensity in the first 15
days.
Shiqui et al., 2008 studied the effect of finishing methods on microencapsulated
aroma finishing. Lemongrass aroma microcapsules on 100% cotton woven fabric using
DMDHEU, a polyurethane and acrylic binder. Fragrance durability of finished sample was
examined by washing and odour testing. The results revealed that DMDHEU is not a good
fixing agent for holding lemon fragrance capsules. It could withstand only 5 wash cycles if
fabric was cured at 177°C for 1 minute in a conventional hot air tenter. Polyurethane binder
also lost their fragrance between 1 to 5 wash cycles but acrylic binder exhibited excellent
wash durability i.e. 20 wash cycles.
Sricharussin et al., 2009 revealed that β-cyclodextrin modified with monochlorotriazine
(β-CD-MCT) was synthesised and sandalwood oil as an aroma-finishing agent applied on
cotton fabrics as surface modification. It was found that β-CD-MCT can be fixed to cotton
fabrics with pad–dry–cure method at high temperature. No loss of tensile strength of treated
fabrics was found. The fragrance disappeared from untreated cotton after 8 days when stored
at ambient temperature (30°C). The fragrance was retained in β-CD-MCT-treated cotton
fabrics for 21 days in the same conditions.
Sukumar and Lakshmikantha, 2010 formulated cotton fabric with distilled jasmine
and lavender oil as core material by employing the microencapsulation technique. The
aromatic oils were microcapsulated using gelatin and sodium alginate as wall material by
coecervation technique. These microcapsules were fixed in 100% cotton fabric with the
binder by pad-thermo fixation. It revealed that the capsules were of uniform size and retained
finish till 25 wash cycles. It was also reported that aromas had good pharmacological effect
on people.

12
 Voncina, 2009 conducted a research on preparation of ethyl cellulose (EC)
microcapsules containing rosemary oil by the phase separation method. The prepared capsules
were analyzed by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and Confocal Laser Scanning
Microscopy (CLSM). The size of microcapsule were 10-90 µm and the size range of EC
microcapsules depends on the stirring speed employed during encapsulation. Reduction in the
stirring speed increased the size of microcapsules. Rosemary oil content in the microcapsules
was determined using CLSM. Capsules were grafted onto cotton fabric; the presence of
microencapsulated rosemary oil attached to textile materials was tested by CLSM and it was
found that after grafting of microcapsules on textile materials at elevated temperature the
rosemary oil was still present in microcapsules. This indicated that grafting of EC
microcapsules containing rosemary oil onto fabric at 1°C for 2 min by using 1,2,3,4-
butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) is appropriate method to prepare textile materials for
cosmetic application.
Gupta and Gupta, 2010 revealed that most wellness finish on textiles use
microencapsulation to deliver active ingredient like moisturizer, therapeutic oils or
insecticides through the clothes onto skin directly where they were absorbed by the dermis.
Jiamrungraksha et al., 2010 conducted a study on development of glangal essential
oil/aliginate microcapsules by solidifying in liquid (orifice method) between sodium alginate
and calcium chloride. The structure, morphology and also the thermal stability of the
microcapsules were investigated and it was found that thermal stability of galangal essential
oil was less than the galangal essential oil/alginate microcapsules. Durability of glangal
essential oil could be improved by microencapsulation. An increase of sodium alginate
concentration and oil content resulted in significantly higher average size of the
microcapsules ranging from 750 to 1000 μm and maximum oil content in the microcapsules
was 40%. However, at 1% (w/v) of sodium alginate concentration, microcapsules tended to
form agglomerate.
Martin et al., 2010 found that cyclodextrin is a chemical that can provide a cavity for
essential oil to stay so as to decrease its volatility. Titanium dioxide sol-gel is one of the
methods that can help retain cyclodextrin on a fabric. It appears that there is a potential to
develop a fragrant fabric with the combined use of titanium dioxide sol-gel, cyclodextrin and
essential oil.
Sathianarayanan et al., 2010 conducted a research by treating cotton fabric with
herbal extracts that acted as bactericides as well bacteriostats. Herbal extracts have been
applied to cotton fabric by the method of direct application, microencapsulation, cross-linking
and their combinations. It was noticed that extracts that were applied directly to fabric
through pad dry cure method were not durable to wash and can be used for the manufacture of
disposable products only but all other treatment showed durability to washing.

13
 Specos et al., 2010 studied the development and testing of two types of
microcapsules i.e. gelatin–arabic gum microcapsules (GAM) or yeast cells microcapsules
(YCM) containing lemon essential oil for application on cotton fabric by complex
coacervation technique in order to increase the durability of fragrances in textiles. GAM
microcapsules increased the durability of the fragrance on the treated fabrics and withstood
one wash cycle and yeast cell microcapsules presented low fragrance intensity before
washing. Microencapsulation variables in complex coacervation, such as oil/ polymer (O/P)
and gelatin/ polymer (G/P) ratios have direct influence on textile application and fabrics
performance. The higher the glutaraldehyde concentration, the better the washing
performance. However, an excess of hardening agent resulted in stained fabrics due to clot
formation in the microcapsule slurry. Moreover, an interference of glutaraldehyde odour was
detected in treated fabrics. The best results regarding initial fragrance intensity, fragrance
controlled release, and washing durability were found for GAM obtained at 2:1 O/P ratio and
hardened at G/P ratios from 0.05:1 to 0.2:1. The most homogeneous applications were
achieved by padding twice even though the highest initial fragrance intensity was found for
samples obtained by coating. Both application methods have shown similar efficiency with
respect to washing durability.
Bhatt, 2012 conducted a study to standardize the process of microencapsulation of
lemongrass oil. Microcapsules were prepared using 2:1:4 ratio of gum, oil and gelatin, at a
temperature of 50°C with initial and final pH 4.5 and 9.5 respectively. The proportion of
binder, softener and microcapsule gel was optimized at 15:1:50 with MLR 1:20 cured at 80°C
for 60 seconds. It was concluded that samples retained aroma till 30 wash cycles and as the
number of wash cycles increased the intensity of aroma decreased.
Bonet et al., 2012 studied two possible methods to apply lavender fragrance
microcapsules on cotton fabric using padding and exhaust method and resin as a binder. In
padding the mechanical force caused by cylinder pressure mainly placed microcapsules on
fabrics and when compared with bath exhaustion, it was noticeable that it was necessary to
work with high concentration of microcapsules. However, increasing temperature allowed
more microcapsules to be on the fiber surface but the temperature was over 600C, the effect
was not significantly noticeable. Therefore temperature should be lower as possible,
otherwise active product can be damaged. It also suggested that high amount of microcapsules
swept away in waste water hence waste water could be reused. When applying microcapsules
to fabric, it was better to use padding to bath exhaust, as it needed fewer chemical products
and at low temperature.
Cui et al., 2012 found that the microcapsules were synthesized in this paper based on
the core of n-octadecane and shell of both of trimethylol melamine and hexamethylol
melamine in situ- polymerization. The DSC curve conformed that n-octadecanes serviced as

14
the core materials were suitable for fabrics application in the microcapsule. Seen from the
particle size distribution, the procedure of dispersion and ultrasonication was necessary and
the 2 hr reaction time was better. Using chitosan as the binder, the coating fabrication was
obtained. Observed in the SEM, microcapsules were distributed evenly on the fabric surface.
Kumar et al., 2012 examined the effect of fragrance finishing of lavender aroma on
aloe-vera and cotton fabrics using exhaust method with non-ionic binder. Both the fragranced
finished fabrics were made into wall hangings and the ambiance of the room was evaluated by
comparing various factors such as fabric performance, durability of the fragrance and
laundering properties of the treated fabrics. Finally based on the overall performance it was
concluded that fragranced finished aloe-vera fabric was better as compared to cotton fabrics
in all the above factors and can be used in home textile application.
Suthaphot et al., 2012 studied microencapsulation method on cotton fabric and the
satisfaction of consumers towards five aromatherapy; lavender, rose, peppermint, jasmine,
and pinewood with color fastness to washing. The results were found that the process of
microencapsulation was approximated with cool method and rose aromatherapy which
showed the smallest size in average 2.4 μm. Finally, the result of the satisfaction found that
lavender aromatherapy average 3.66% and the colorfastness to washing in lavender
microcapsule was the highest level.
Chattopadhyay and Shweta, 2013 synthesized fragranced dyes and applied them to
cotton fabric for antimicrobial, aromatherapy and other properties. Retention of fragranced
fabric was assessed after washing and exposure to sun-light and observed that
microencapsulation method used in this study to be successful in attaching an essential oil
scent to cotton fabric via modified dyes. Although fragrance intensity decreases with time and
washing.
Ramya and Maheshwari, 2013 applied clove extract to eco-friendly cotton/bamboo
fabrics using both direct application and microencapsulation and wash durability was
assessed. The direct application method lasted through 10 washes where, the
microencapsulation’s lasted through 30 wash cycles. Wash durability results for the directly
applied method was poor, but considered useful for single use applications, where garment is
not washed or reused.
Saranya et al., 2014 applied Lavandula spica L. essential oil on bamboo/cotton
blended knitted fabric by microencapsulation and pad-dry-cure method and wash durability
was checked. It was observed that in padding method, the fragrance lasted comparatively for
more number of washes when compared to normally used methods. For the commercial finish
i.e. with microencapsulation, the fragrance lasted for even more number of washes than other
methods. This can be reasoned as that microencapsulation makes the finish particles more
securely attached to the internal structure of the fibre and thus released with much slower rate.

15
CHAPTER-III

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The present study was undertaken to develop aromatic cotton fabrics through
application of various essential oils using different application methods. The experimental
steps adopted in fulfillment of the objectives of the study have been explained under the
following sections:
3.1 Selection of the Raw Materials and Treatment Methods
3.2 Preparation of Textile Materials
3.3 Determination of Preliminary Data of the Fabrics
3.4 Standardization of Different Variables of Treatment Methods for Aroma Treatment
3.5 Application of Essential Oils on Fabrics using Optimized Variables
3.6 Microscopic Analysis of Aroma Treated Fabrics
3.7 Assessment of Aroma Durability of Treated Fabrics
3.8 Testing of Performance and Comfort Properties of Aroma Treated Fabrics
3.9 Statistical Analysis
3.1 Selection of the Raw Materials and Treatment Methods
3.1.1 Selection of fabrics: A survey was conducted to identify different types of cotton
fabrics commonly used by consumers for apparels. Medium weight bleached cotton fabrics
were selected on visual basis by advisory committee members from the major subject. Two
types of cotton fabrics i.e. one woven and one knitted were selected as a substrate for
application of essential oils. The woven fabric was procured from local market of Hisar city
and the knitted fabric was procured from the local market of Ludhiana city. To confirm that
the fabrics procured for the study are pure cotton; burning, microscopic and chemical tests
were conducted.
3.1.2 Selection and procurement of essential oils: Essential oils are volatile and liquid
aroma compounds from natural sources, usually plants. These oils often have an odour and
are therefore used in textile industry. Essential oils can produce individual emotional
responses, which can bring forth feeling of happiness, well being and peace (Muresan et al.,
2009). An exhaustive list of various essential oils was prepared and after exclusion of those
essential oils on which similar researches have been carried out, thirteen oils which were
easily available and cost effective were chosen to sought preferences. Out of thirteen, four
essential oils were selected and procured from Delhi. The essential oils were selected with the
help of a self-structured preferential choice index on two parameters i.e. aroma of the oil and
its therapeutic effects which was subjected to 25 experts. All features were assessed using a
five point quantum scale (Annexure-I).

16
 RESEARCH DESIGN

Selection of Raw Materials and Treatment Methods

Fabrics Essential oils Treatment methods

 Microencapsulation
Selection and preparation Selection of essential oils  Direct
of fabrics  Resin cross-linking
 Combination
Determination of preliminary
data of fabrics

Standardization of Different Variables of Treatment Methods for Aroma Treatment

Padding bath components Treatment time Curing temperature and time

Material to liquor ratio Drying temperature and time

Application of Essential Oils on Fabrics using Optimized Variables

Microscopic Analysis of Aroma Treated Fabrics

Assessment of Aroma Durability of Treated Fabrics

Retention of aroma Intensity of aroma

Testing of Performance and Comfort Properties of Aroma Treated Fabrics

Bending length Tearing strength Crease recovery Air permeability Colour change
and flexural rigidity

Tensile strength and elongation Bursting strength Texture

Statistical Analysis

17
3.1.3 Selection of treatment methods: As garments are subjected to different agencies like
washing, abrasion, ironing and sun drying, the durability of treatment is a major issue. Hence,
in this study following methods were used to fix essential oils on the fabrics:
i. Microencapsulation method: The microcapsules can be formed by physical and
chemical techniques of microencapsulation i.e. solvent evaporation, polymerization, spray
drying, pan coating, phase separation, centrifugal extrusion etc. For the present study, the
phase separation - complex coacervation technique was selected on the basis of reviews
and the suitability of the process to be carried out in the laboratory of the department.
Complex coacervation is widely used to prepare microcapsules for controllable drug
release because of its simplicity and low pollution. In this, two or more than two kinds of
molecules of opposite charge are joined as the walls and then disperse the core substance
into the aqueous solution of wall materials. When the conditions are right, the wall
materials will attract each other because of the opposite charges and embed the core
material.
Essential oils were taken as a core material and gum as the wall material whereas, gelatin
is the common ingredient in all the processes of complex coacervation. The modified
recipe of (Shweta et al., 2005) was used for preparation of microcapsules of selected
essential oils.
ii. Direct method: The essential oils were directly applied on the fabrics using citric acid as
a cross linking agent by pad-dry-cure method (Sathianarayanan et al., 2010).
iii. Resin cross-linking method: The essential oils were mixed with resin cross-linking
agent with compatible catalyst and applied on to the fabrics with pad-dry-cure method
(Sathianarayanan et al., 2010).
iv. Combination method: Microencapsulation is a physico-chemical mode of application of
finishes to textiles, whereas cross-linking is a chemical method of applying finishes to
textiles. To enhance the durability of the treatment it is possible to combine both physico-
chemical and chemical methods i.e. combination of microencapsulation and resin cross-
linking. The microencapsulation and resin cross-linking methods were combined to apply
essential oils to the fabrics.
3.1.4 Selection and procurement of auxiliaries: Toxic and banned auxiliaries were excluded
from experimental work. Different laboratory grade auxiliaries were selected for the study on
the basis of available literature, easy availability, cost effectiveness and ecofriendly nature.
All the auxiliaries were procured from Delhi.
i. Softener: Silicon was selected as a softener in padding bath of microencapsulation method to
control the stiffness of the microencapsulated fabrics. Silicon softener is eco friendly having
no adverse effects on environment and induces higher encapsulated fragrance. It was used for
softening of the fabric (Karolia and Mendapara, 2007).

18
ii. Binder: Betacyclodextrin (C55H96035) was used as a binder for application of fragranced
microcapsules to cotton fabrics as it does not cause skin irritation, skin sensitization, does
not have mutagenic effect and is also ecofriendly. It is also capable of forming inclusion
compound with molecules. Furthermore, cyclodextrin clamped onto cellulose does not
affect the cellulosic properties and retain its ability to form inclusion complexes with
other suitable molecules (Bhaskara et al., 2011).
iii. Citric acid: Citric acid was used as cross-linking agent in padding bath for direct
application of essential oils as it is easily available, cheap and considered as eco-friendly.
Moreover, very less quantity is required for application (Moustafa and Fahmy, 2011).
iv. Resin cross-linking agent and catalyst: 1,2,3,4-butane tetracarboxlic acid (BTCA) has
greater accessibility to the internal amorphous regions of cotton hence more effective resin
cross-linking agent for cotton fabric. A catalyst is used to enhance the application of essential
oils on the fabrics. Sodium hypophosphite (NaPO2H2, also known as sodium phosphinate) is
the most effective catalyst and most compatible catalyst used with BTCA (Edwin and
Nalankilli, 2012).
3.2 Preparation of Textiles Materials
The textile material must undergo preparation to ensure complete wetting and
uniform absorbency of the essential oils and to remove any other impurities from the material
that could interfere with aroma treatment. The methods adopted for fabric preparation were:
3.2.1 Desizing of the fabric: Desizing was done to remove starch and any other sizing
material present in the fabric. The woven and knitted cotton fabrics were desized in a solution
containing 1 percent sulphuric acid (H2SO4) at 500C with MLR 1:40 for 60 minutes. The
fabrics were rinsed thoroughly to remove loose starch and other residues, if left (Modi and
Grade, 1975).
3.2.2 Scouring of the fabric: The fabric was weighed and soaked prior to introduction in the
scouring bath. The fabric was squeezed thoroughly and was treated in a water solution
containing 1 percent soap, 3 percent sodium carbonate and 0.5 percent sodium sulphite at
boiling temperature (100°C) with MLR 1:40 for 60 minutes. The fabric was rinsed thoroughly
to remove any residues, if left and dried on a flat surface (Modi and Grade, 1975).
3.3 Determination of Preliminary Data of the Fabrics
The preliminary data of the fabrics to be treated was obtained under three parameters
i.e. fabric count, weight and thickness for woven cotton fabric whereas, stitch density was
calculated for knitted cotton fabric instead of fabric count. The fabric samples were
conditioned prior to determination of fabric dimensions under standard test conditions i.e.
relative humidity of 65±2 percent and temperature 27±20C.
3.3.1 Fabric count: Fabric count is the number of warp yarns (ends) and weft yarns (picks)
per inch in the woven fabric. Paramount pick glass with pointer was used to determine the

19
fabric count of the woven cotton fabric using ASTM-D123 test method. It was determined by
counting the number of threads per square inch in the warp and weft directions at five
different places in the woven cotton fabric. An average of five readings was taken as the
fabric count.
3.3.2 Fabric weight: The weight of the fabric is defined as weight of a known area of the
material and then computing the weight per unit area. Samples were cut at random from the
selected fabrics with the help of round cutter for GSM. The individual samples were
suspended on the clamp of the pointer beam of the Paramount Precision Scale for GSM using
ASTM-D3776-90 test method. The movement of the pointer beam was controlled with the
help of break knob provided at the centre of the unit. The weight per unit area was read
directly from the Quadrant scale from 0-250 GSM. An average of five readings was
calculated.
3.3.3 Fabric thickness: Fabric thickness is defined as the distance between two parallel
surfaces while exerting a specific pressure on the material by the pressure foot of the tester.
Paramount thickness tester was used to determine thickness of the samples using ASTM-D
1777-60 test method. A specimen was placed on the flat surface below pressure foot of the
instrument. The pressure foot was lowered upon the specimen gently until the pointer of the
dial meter stopped moving further and the reading on the dial gauge was recorded in mm. An
average of five readings was calculated as the fabric thickness.
3.3.4 Stitch density: Stitch density is the number of courses and wales per inch in the knitted
fabric. Paramount pick glass with pointer was used to determine the stitch density of the
knitted cotton fabric using ASTM-D123 test method. It was determined by counting the
number of courses/wales per inch in the warp and weft directions at five different places in
the knitted cotton fabric. An average of five readings was taken as the stitch density.
3.4 Standardization of Different Variables of Treatment Methods for Aroma Treatment
Experiments were conducted for standardization of various variables for application
of essential oils on both the selected fabrics through different methods:
 Microencapsulation
 Direct
 Resin cross-linking
 Combination
For the application of essential oils on fabrics using different methods, padding
process was standardized for various variables. Different ranges of common variables were
tried for optimization on the basis of reviews. Cotton fabric samples were immersed in the
padding solution for 30 minutes at room temperature with occasional stirring. After that fabric
and solution was transferred to the trough of padding mangle and the fabric was passed
through the rollers of the padding mangle at pneumatic pressure of 2 Kg/cm2. As the fabric

20
left the padding mangle, it was dried at 80-85°C for 5 minutes and cured at 110°C for 3
minutes (Thilagavathi et al., 2007 and Sukumar and Lakshmikantha, 2010).
The resultant fabric obtained after each padding, drying and curing process was analyzed
under e-scope to ensure the presence of microcapsules in the fabric structure and images were
captured for microencapsulation and combination method. Durability of aroma treatment and
performance properties were examined for all the four methods.
3.4.1 Optimization of padding bath components: Four treatment methods were used to
apply oils to the selected cotton fabrics and for each method different padding bath was
prepared. Experiments were conducted to optimize the proportions of padding bath
components for:
A. Microencapsulation method
For preparation of padding bath for microencapsulation method, microcapsule gel is
required. For the formation of microcapsule gel of selected essential oils, different variables
of microencapsulation process i.e. ratio of oils, gum, gelatin, temperature and pH were
optimized. As per Shweta et al., 2005 12 g of gelatin was dissolved in 25 ml warm water and
stirred with high speed stirrer for 10 minutes. 4 g of core material was added to the solution at
40°C. 12 g of gum acacia was dissolved in 25 ml warm water separately. The gum acacia
solution was added to the gelatin solution and the temperature of the solution was maintained
at 40°C. The pH of the solution was decreased to 4.5 by addition of dilute acetic acid. The
solution was stirred at high speed for 20 minutes and the temperature was lowered to 5°C for
gel formation. The pH was increased to 8.5 using sodium hydroxide solution to form
microcapsules. 1 m1 of alcoholic formalin (17 percent) was added to the formed capsules for
stabilization. This was used for optimization of other variables of microencapsulation process.
The resultant precipitate obtained after each process was analyzed under inverted microscope
to ensure the formation of microcapsules and images were captured. The combination of ratio
of oil, gum and gelatin which produced best results was further subjected to optimization of
the other variables. At a time, the ratio of only one variable was varied and other variables
were kept constant.
The process is illustrated stepwise in the following figure:
Optimization of Ratio
Essential oil: Gum: Gelatin

Optimization of Temperature

Optimization of pH

Microcapsules formed

Flowchart of standardization of microencapsulation process

21
i. Optimization of ratio of essential oil: To optimize ratio of essential oils, six different
ratios of oils i.e. 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5 and 3.0 were taken while other variables i.e. gum,
gelatin, temperature and pH were kept constant to carry out microencapsulation process.
The resultant precipitate obtained was analyzed under inverted microscope to ensure the
formation of microcapsules and optimization was done on the basis of the visual
assessment of the microcapsules size, uniformity in size and distribution and wall of the
microcapsules. The ratio giving best results was selected for next stage of optimization.
ii. Optimization of ratio of gum: For determination of optimum ratio of gum, six different
ratios of gum i.e. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 were taken with optimized ratio of essential oils
whereas ratio of gelatin was kept constant along with all other variables.
Microencapsulation was carried out and ratio of gum was optimized on the basis of visual
assessment as explained in section 3.4.1(A)i.
iii. Optimization of ratio of gelatin: For determination of optimum ratio of gelatin, six
different ratios of gelatin i.e. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 were taken with optimized ratio of oil and
gum and all other variables were kept constant. Microencapsulation was carried out and
ratio of gelatin was optimized on the basis of visual assessment as described under section
3.4.1(A)i.
iv. Optimization of temperature: For determination of optimum temperature for
microencapsulation, the process was carried out at six different temperatures i.e. 30, 40,
50, 60, 70 and 800C with optimized ratio of oils, gum and gelatin and other variables were
kept constant. Temperature was optimized on the basis of visual assessment as mentioned
under section 3.4.1(A)i.
v. Optimization of initial and final pH: pH plays very important role in
microencapsulation as it is responsible for phase separation which leads to capsule
formation. For optimization of pH, the optimized ratio of essential oil, gum and gelatin at
optimized temperature was set to initial pH 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 5.5, 6.0, 6.5 and 7.0. The
microencapsulation process was carried out till gel formation took place and then final pH
was maintained at 7.0, 7.5, 8.0, 8.5, 9.0, 9.5 and 10.0 with each initial pH. The initial and
final pH was optimized on the basis of visual assessment of microcapsule gel as
mentioned in section 3.4.1(A)i.
Variables for preparation of microcapsule gel for padding bath of microencapsulation
Variables Tried ratios, temperature, pH
Essential oils (Ratio) 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5,3.0
Gum (Ratio) 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,6
Gelatin (Ratio) 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
0
Temperature ( C) 30, 40, 50, 60, 70 ,800C
Initial pH 4.0. 4.5, 5.0, 5.5, 6.0, 6.5, 7.0
Final pH 7.0, 7.5, 8.0, 8.5, 9.0, 9.5, 10.0

22
Preparation of microcapsule gel:
Microcapsule gel was prepared for each selected essential oil using the standardized
recipe. Optimized ratio of gelatin was dissolved in warm water and was stirred at high speed
for 10 min. Optimized ratio of each essential oil (core material) was added to the solution at
optimized temperature and pH of the solution was set at optimized initial pH. The solution
was stirred at high speed for 20 min and temperature was lowered to 5°C for gel formation.
The pH of the gel was set at optimized final pH. 1 ml of alcoholic formalin (17 percent) was
added to the formed capsules and the formed microcapsule gel of each essential oil was stored
for further application on fabric.
For the application of essential oils on fabrics padding bath was prepared using
microcapsule gel, softener and binder. The proportion of padding bath components i.e.
microcapsule gel, softener and binder were optimized on the basis of presence of
microcapsules on the fabric examined through e-Scope.
a. Optimization of proportion of microcapsule gel: To optimize the proportion four
padding bath of different proportions of microcapsule gel i.e. 30, 40, 50 and 60 g/l were
taken while other variables kept constant i.e. binder: 5 g/I, softener: 1 g/I, material to
liquor ratio: 1:20 and treatment time: 30 minutes. The padding, drying and curing of the
fabric was carried out as described in section 3.4 and the resultant fabric was analyzed
under e-scope and optimum proportion was selected on the basis of visual analysis for
presence of microcapsules on fabric, durability to washing and also on the basis of
performance properties i.e. bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery.
b. Optimization of proportion of softener: For determination of optimum proportion, four
different proportions of softener i.e. 1, 3, 5 and 7 g/l were taken with optimized
proportion of microcapsule gel whereas, other variables were kept constant. Padding,
drying and curing was carried out and optimization was done as explained in section
3.4.1(A)a.
c. Optimization of proportion of binder: For determination of optimum proportion of
binder, four different proportions of binder i.e. 5, 10, 15, and 20 g/l were taken with
optimized proportion of microcapsule gel and softener keeping all other variables
constant. Padding, drying and curing was carried out and optimization was done as
mentioned under section 3.4.1(A)a.
B. Direct method
All the four selected essential oils were directly applied on both the selected fabrics
i.e. woven and knitted cotton for aroma treatment. The optimized ratio of essential oils used in
microencapsulation process was taken. Citric acid was used as a cross-linking agent in the
padding bath to improve the cross-linking of the essential oils onto the fabrics. The padding

23
bath was prepared using optimized ratio of essential oil in microencapsulation method and
concentration of citric acid was optimized. Padding, drying and curing was carried out.
i. Optimization of concentration of citric acid: To optimize the concentration of citric
acid, four different concentrations of citric acid i.e. 5, 6, 7 and 8 percent (owf) were take
with optimized ratio of essential oil and other variables remained constant i.e. material to
liquor ratio: 1:20 and treatment time: 30 minutes. Cotton fabric samples were immersed
in the padding solution for 30 minutes at room temperature with occasional stirring. After
that fabric was passed through the rollers of the padding mangle at pneumatic pressure of
2 Kg/cm2. As the fabric left the padding mangle, it was dried at 80-85°C for 5 minutes
and cured at 110°C for 3 minutes. The concentration of citric acid at which the bending
length was minimum with higher crease recovery angle was selected as optimum
concentration of citric acid.
C. Resin cross-linking method
The non-formaldehyde based resin cross-linking agent i.e. 1,2,3,4 butane
tetracarboxlic acid (BTCA) with compatible catalyst i.e. sodium hypophosphite was used for
application of essential oils to the cotton fabrics. The ratio of essential oils optimized in
microencapsulation process was taken and proportion of resin cross-linking agent and catalyst
was optimized. Padding, drying and curing was done.
i. Optimization of proportion of resin cross-linking agent: To optimize the proportion of
resin cross-linking agent, four different proportions of resin cross-linking agent i.e. 11,
12, 13 and 14 g/l were taken with optimized ratio of essential oil while the other variables
remained constant i.e. catalyst, material to liquor ratio and treatment time. The cotton
fabrics were dipped in the resin solution and padded through a pneumatic padding
mangle. The treated fabrics were dried at 80-85°C for 5 minutes and cured at 110°C for 3
minutes. The concentration of resin cross-linking agent at which the bending length was
minimum with higher crease recovery angle was selected as optimum concentration of
resin cross-linking agent.
ii. Optimization of proportion of catalyst: For determination of optimum proportion of
catalyst, four different proportions of catalyst i.e. 2, 3, 4 and 5 g/l were taken with
optimized ratio of oil and resin cross-linking agent whereas, material to liquor ratio and
treatment time were kept constant. Padding was done through a pneumatic padding
mangle. Drying and curing was carried out and optimization was done as explained in
section 3.4.1(C)i.
D. Combination method:
To enhance the functional property of a textile it is possible to combine both physico-
chemical and chemical techniques i.e. combination of microencapsulation and resin cross-
linking method. The optimized recipe of microencapsulation and resin cross-linking method

24
was used for combination method. The padding, drying and curing was carried out as
explained in section 3.4. Optimization was done on the basis of visual analysis of presence of
microcapsules on fabric, durability to washing and also on the basis of performance properties
i.e. bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery.

After optimization of padding bath components for each treatment method, other
variables i.e. material to liquor ratio, treatment time, drying temperature and time, curing
temperature and time were optimized for all the four treatment methods.

3.4.2 Optimization of material to liquor ratio (MLR): For determination of optimum

material to liquor ratio, four different material to liquor ratios i.e. 1:20, 1:30, 1:40 and 1:50
were taken using optimum concentrations/proportions of padding bath components of each
application method. The padding, drying and curing of the fabric was carried out as described
under section 3.4 and the resultant fabric was analyzed under e-scope and optimum MLR was
selected on the basis of performance properties i.e. bending length, flexural rigidity and crease
recovery. For microencapsulation and combination method in addition to performance
properties, presence of microcapsules on fabric and durability to washing were also analyzed.
3.4.3 Optimization of treatment time: For optimization of the treatment time the fabrics
were kept in padding bath for four different time durations i.e. 10, 20, 30 and 40 minutes
having optimized components of each application method with optimized material to liquor
ratio. Whereas padding, drying and curing of the fabric was carried out as explained under
section 3.4. Optimization was done as explained in section 3.4.2.
3.4.4 Determination of optimum drying temperature and time
i. Optimization of drying temperature: For optimization of the drying temperature fabric
samples were treated using optimum concentration/proportions of padding bath
components, treatment time and material to liquor ratio. After that the fabric was passed
through the padding mangle at pneumatic pressure of 2 Kg/cm2. Drying of treated
samples was carried out at four different temperatures i.e. 70°, 80°, 90° and 100°C
keeping drying time 5 minutes and cured at 110°C for 3 minutes. Optimization of drying
temperature was done as explained in section 3.4.2.
ii. Optimization of drying time: For optimization of drying time, fabric samples were
treated using optimum concentration of variables. Afterwards the treated samples were
passed between the squeezing rollers of padding mangle. The drying of treated samples
was carried out at four different time durations i.e. 2, 3, 4 and 5 minutes at optimum
drying temperature keeping curing temperature and time constant i.e. 110°C for 3
minutes. Optimization of drying time was done as explained in section 3.4.2.

25
3.4.5 Determination of optimum curing temperature and time
i. Optimization of curing temperature: For optimization of curing temperature, fabric
samples were treated using optimized conditions. The treatment was given using pad-dry-
cure method in a padding mangle. Curing of treated fabric samples was carried out at four
different temperatures i.e. 100°, 110°, 120° and 130°C keeping curing time constant i.e. 3
minutes. Optimization of curing temperature was done as mentioned under section 3.4.2.
ii. Optimization of curing time: Fabric samples were treated using optimized variables
with optimized curing temperature for optimization of curing time. The application was
carried out using pad-dry-cure method in a padding mangle. Padded samples were dried
at optimum temperature for optimum time and cured at optimum temperature for different
time durations i.e. 30, 60, 90 and 120 seconds. Optimization of curing time was done as
mentioned under section 3.4.2.
Variables for optimization of pad-dry-cure process
Treatment variables Tried conditions
Padding bath component for:
 Microencapsulation method
 Proportion of microcapsule gel (g/l) 30, 40, 50, 60
 Proportion of softener (g/l) 01, 03, 05, 07
 Proportion of binder (g/l) 05, 10, 15, 20
 Direct method
 Concentration of citric acid (percent) 05, 06, 07, 08
 Resin cross linking method
 Proportion of resin cross-linking agent (g/l) 11, 12, 13, 14
 Proportion of catalyst (g/l) 02, 03, 04, 05
Material to liquor ratio (MLR) 1:20, 1:30,1:40
Treatment time (min.) 20, 30, 40
Drying temperature (0C) 70, 80, 90,100
Drying time (min.) 02, 03, 04, 05
Curing temperature (0C) 100, 110, 120,130
Curing time (sec.) 30, 60, 90,120

3.5 Application of Essential Oils on Fabrics using Optimized Variables

Selected essential oils i.e. geranium, lime, palmarosa and peppermint were applied on
both the selected fabrics i.e. woven and knitted cotton using all the four treatment methods i.e.
microencapsulation, direct, resin cross-linking and combination method using optimized
conditions. Each fabric was immersed in padding bath, prepared with optimized ratio of
microcapsule gel, softener and binder in microencapsulation method; essential oils and citric
acid in direct method; essential oils, resin cross-linking agent and catalyst in resin cross-
linking method, the optimized variables of microencapsulation and resin cross-linking method
for the combination method using optimized MLR for optimum treatment duration at room
temperature with occasional stirring. After that fabric with its respective padding solution was
placed in the trough of padding mangle. Fabric was passed between the rollers of the

26
pneumatic padding mangle. As the fabric left the padding mangle, it was subsequently
subjected to optimum drying temperature for optimum time and cured at optimum
temperature for optimum duration.
3.6 Microscopic Analysis of Aroma Treated Fabrics
The treated fabric samples were analyzed under e-Scope to ensure the presence the
microcapsules in the fabric structure and images were captured to optimize the variables for
pad-dry-cure process. On the basis of e-Scope images treatment conditions of
microencapsulation method was optimized and the treated fabric with optimized conditions
were analyzed under scanning electron microscope. The treated fabric samples of 10 mm
diameter were mounted on the circular metallic sample holder and samples were analyzed and
images were captured. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) was used to ensure the presence
of microcapsules in the treated samples in case of microencapsulation and combination
method. Whereas, in case of direct and resin cross-linking method analysis was done to
examine the surface modification of the fabric.
3.7 Assessment of Aroma Durability of Treated Fabrics
The ability of a treatment in association with a given substrate to withstand the
various agencies such as washing, abrasion, ironing, sun-drying etc. in processing or use is its
treatment durability. Aroma durability of treated samples in terms of retention and intensity of
aroma was assessed after subjected to different agencies i.e. washing, abrasion, ironing and
sun-drying
3.7.1 Retention of aroma: The treated samples after washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-
drying were evaluated against aroma retention by 25 experts using olfactory analysis. A
portion of each treated fabric was removed after different exposure duration and tested for the
presence of fragrance by the experts. The treated and exposed samples to different agencies
were evaluated within 24-hours. The samples were hung on a clothesline in a room for 1 hour
to stabilize the evaporation of fragrance prior to being judged. To get fair judgement the
experts were not allowed to enter the stabilizing room and samples were brought to the
experts. To detect odour, a specimen was put on a desk and the expert used a fingernail to
scratch ‘X’ on the specimen to rupture some capsules and smell the swatch. The size of
sample was 3x3 cm. The responses were recorded as 'Yes' or 'No'. If the aroma was judged to
be present by majority of experts, the condition was noted as passing (Lewis, 2003).
3.7.2 Intensity of aroma: The treated samples after washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-
drying were evaluated qualitatively for intensity of aroma at different exposure durations.
Change in amount of aroma was assessed by sensory evaluation of 25 respondents selected
purposively from Hisar city. The assessment was done on five point quantum scale i.e.

27
 Rating Weightage
Very strong 5
Strong 4
Moderate 3
Mild 2
Faint 1
For each feature, the frequency of each rating was multiplied by the respective weightage to
calculate the weighted mean score. The samples were finally rated on the basis of their
weighted mean score as per following scale:
Weighted mean score (WMS) Rating
4.2 - 50 Very strong
3.4 - 4.2 Strong
2.6 - 3.4 Moderate
1.8 - 2.6 Mild
1 - 1.8 Faint
Retention and intensity of aroma durability to washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying were
tested using standard test methods as follows:
a. Aroma durability to washing: Wash durability test was carried out as per the
recommendation of IS: 3361-1979 in a 'laundrometer'. Treated fabrics were cut into
sample size 10x4 cm. A soap solution using 5g/l soap in distilled water was prepared.
Each fabric sample was placed in a separate container and soap solution was added to
each container maintaining M:L ratio 1:50. These specimens were washed for 45 minutes
at 50±2°C. After removing fabric specimen from laundrometer it was rinsed twice in cold
water and then in running tap water for 10 min and squeezed. The finished specimens
were dried in air at a temperature not exceeding 60°C. After 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30 wash
cycles the samples were analyzed to check retention and intensity of aroma.
b. Aroma durability to abrasion: Abrasion is an aspect of wear or serviceability caused by
rubbing away of the component fibers and yarns of the fabric. Abrasion test was carried
out to estimate the durability or serviceability of aroma treatment on both the selected
fabrics to abrasion.
It was determined by Stoll Universal Wear Tester equipped with flat plate to determine
flat abrasion using ASTM D1175-61T test method. The stainless steel smooth plate made
a reciprocating motion of 115±15 double stroke per minute for a stroke length 1". Sample
measuring 8"×1" were cut warp and weft wise for all the fabrics. Fabric specimen was
clamped to one side and passed round a thin folding bar with a well polished and highly
wear resistance edge. The other end was gripped by another smooth plate which can
freely move in a direction perpendicular to the plane of the reciprocating plate. The
bar/blade was connected to a yoke by which specimen was mounted under 1 lb in front
and 4 lb in back. When machine was switched on, the reciprocating of the carriage caused

28
 the fabric to be repeatedly pulled back and forth around the edge of the plate. The treated
fabric samples were subjected to 10, 50 and 100 times of abrasion, respectively and the
fragrance was assessed (Cheng et al., 2010). After 10, 50 and 100 abrasion cycles,
samples were used to check the retention and intensity of aroma.
c. Aroma durability to ironing: Treated fabric samples were tested for durability of aroma
to ironing by the ISO: 3758:2005 standard test method. For ironing samples, an iron with
metallic surface was used. Treated fabric was wound on a cardboard measuring
10cm×10cm. The samples were ironed for 15 seconds at temperature 1100C as it was
possible to pass the iron over the fabric several times. Treated fabric was ironed once, 5
times and 10 times. These ironed samples were assessed for the retention and intensity of
aroma (Monllar et al., 2010).
d. Aroma durability to sun drying: - The treated samples were hung on a clothline in
sunlight in the month of June (temperature approximately 45°C) for 1, 2 and 3 hours in
case of cotton woven fabric samples and 2, 3 and 4 hours for cotton knitted fabric
samples. The change in aroma of the samples was compared with control sample for
retention and intensity of aroma after sun-drying.
3.8 Testing of Performance and Comfort Properties of Aroma Treated Fabrics
The samples were conditioned for 24 hours prior to the determination of fabric
properties under standard test conditions i.e. relative humidity: 65±2 percent, temperature:
27±2°C.
3.8.1 Preliminary properties: Preliminary properties play an important role in buying and
selling of fabrics as well as in consumers’ use. Assessment of preliminary properties aims to
predict behaviour of fabric in use. It aids in defining the quality of fabric or those associated
with serviceability as there is not always, a clear dividing line between preliminary
performance and comfort properties.
Preliminary properties tested were fabric count, weight, thickness and stitch density
were again tested as per procedure mentioned in sections (3.3.1), (3.3.2), (3.3.3) and (3.3.4)
respectively to study the effect of aroma treatment on the preliminary properties of the treated
fabrics.
3.8.2 Performance properties: Performance properties viz. bending length and flexural
rigidity, tensile strength and elongation, tearing strength, bursting strength and crease
recovery angle were tested to analyze the effect of essential oils on the fabrics. The control as
well as aroma treated samples were tested for following performance properties:
i. Bending length and flexural rigidity: Bending length is the length of fabric that will
bend under its own weight to definite extent. It determines the drapability of fabric.
Fabric stiffness is expressed by the bending length. Bending length is related to the
quality of stiffness that is appreciated by visual examination of the draped material, in the

29
 sense that cloth having a high bending length tend to drape stiffly. Stiffness Tester
determines the stiffness of the fabrics by cantilever method in which the fabric specimen
is allowed to bend under its own weight as the length of the overhanging portion of the
specimen is gradually increased. The free length which bends under its own weight
sufficiently to make its leading edge intersect plane of 41.5 degree inclination to
horizontal and passing through the front edge of the base supporting the test specimen, is
taken as the measure of the stiffness of the fabric.
The bending length of the fabrics was determined by the Paramount Stiffness Tester
using ASTM-D 1388-64 test method. Samples of size 25x200 mm were cut with template
from warp and weft directions and conditioned. Both template and sample were
transferred to the platform with the fabric underneath, coinciding the zero mark of the
scale and zero line engraved on the side of platform. The template was moved slowly
over 41.5 degree sloped along with the strip till the top of the specimen viewed in the
mirror cut both index lines. The bending length was read from the scale which coincided
with the front edge of the top plate. Each sample was tested four times in both warp and
weft direction. Reading from the scale was noted in mm and an average of four readings
was calculated for both the directions. Weighed all the test samples and also measured
their length and width. Calculated their areas and determined their weight per unit area in
mg/sq. cm.
Average Bending Length =
×
Where
S = Sum of total bending length of specimens (four readings per specimen in
either warp or weft direction)
n = Total number of specimen tested in warp or weft direction.
Flexural rigidity:
Flexural rigidity in warp direction (G1)
G1= W x C2 mg-cm
Flexural rigidity in weft direction (G2)
G2 = W x C2 mg-cm
Where,
W = Weight per unit area of the fabric in milligrams per square centimeter.
C = The mean bending length for the respective direction.
Overall Flexural rigidity (G) = G × G
In the same way, bending length and flexural rigidity of all samples, treated and
untreated were measured.

30
ii. Tensile strength and elongation: Tensile strength is the ability of the fabric to withstand
load of force usually expressed as kilogram weight or pound weight. Elongation of fabric
corresponding to tensile strength is the original length of the sample at breaking point.
Tensile strength of fabrics was determined on Paramount Digital Tensile Strength
tester for textiles (Analogue Model), using ASTM-D 5035 standard test method. The
samples of size 6x4±0.05 inches were cut from warp and weft direction of the fabric with
the help of template. The samples were mounted between the jaws with approximately 1.5
inch of fabric protruding from each side of the jaws at a distance of 3 inches. The speed of
upper jaw was adjusted at 300±10 mm/min. The machine was started and the upper jaw
moved in upward direction. The readings were taken from the digital display at sample
break. The specimen should be slightly tensioned for getting accurate elongation at break.
An average of 5 readings of the specimen from both directions (warp and weft) were
taken and the averages were calculated.
Elongation is the ability to be stretched, extended or lengthened. Elongation of the
fabric measured along with tensile strength through the digital monitor screen fitted on
the tensile strength tester which gives elongation reading along with tensile strength of the
fabric as the standard test method used for tensile strength testing.
iii. Tearing strength: Tearing strength is one of the important aspects of a finished fabric. It
refers to the rupture of a fabric progressively along a line, thread by thread. It was
determined by using Elmendorf Tearing Tester in accordance with ASTM-D 1424
standard test method. A template was used to cut fabric strips of 100±2 mm length and
63±0.15 mm width. The critical dimension i.e. the distance to be torn was taken as
43±0.15 mm and the observation was recorded from the scale of the tester. An average of
5 readings of the specimen from both directions (warp and weft) was taken and the
average was calculated. The tearing strength of control as well treated samples was then
calculated by using the following formula:
Tearing strength (g) = 64 × Scale reading
iv. Crease recovery: Crease recovery properties of fabric include the crease recovery angle
and percent cloth crease recovery. By using these properties the crease recovery
performance of the fabric was assessed.
Crease recovery is the resistance to and recovery from creasing. Resistance to
creasing depends on the rigidity while the recovery depends on the elasticity. The
measure of crease recovery is the angle at which the sample recovers from creasing. The
crease recovery was determined on the Sherley Crease Recovery Tester using
BS3086:1972 test method. Samples were cut both in warp and weft directions from the
fabrics with a template measuring 0.5×2.5 cm and were tested after conditioning. The test
specimen was carefully creased by folding in half and was placed between the two glass

31
 plates. The specimen was creased for 3 minutes under 2 kg weight, the specimen was
removed and transferred to the fabric clamp in the instrument and allowed to recover
from crease for 3 minutes. As it recovers, the dial of the instrument was rotated to keep
the free edge of the specimen in the line with the knife edge. The recovery angle in degree
was noted from the engraved scale. Warp and weft way recovery was observed separately
to the nearest degree from the mean values of the five readings in each direction. The
controlled and treated fabric samples were tested for fabric crease recovery by standard
test method.
Fabric crease recovery = − × −
v. Bursting strength: Bursting strength test is an alternative method of measuring strength
in which the sample is stressed in all directions at the same time. Bursting strength was
determined on James-Heal Pneumatic Bursting Strength Tester using ASTMD-3787
standard test method. Samples to be tested were clamped over rubber diaphragm by mean
of an annular clamping ring and an increasing pressure was applied from the underside of
the diaphragm until the sample bursts. The samples with larger diameter bursts at lower
pressure vis-a-vis samples with smaller diameter. In the test control as well as treated
samples were clamped over the rubber diaphragm and the pressure was increased at such
a rate that the specimen bursts within 20±3 seconds. The pressure at which the samples
bursted was noted in Kg/cm2. An average of 10 readings were taken.
3.8.3 Comfort properties
Comfort properties tested were air permeability, texture and colour change to study
the effect of aroma treatment on the fabrics. The control as well as aroma treated samples
were tested to analyze the effect of essential oils application for following comfort properties:
i. Air permeability: It is the property of the fabric to allow air to pass through under the
effect of a difference in pressure. The corresponding measurement is that of the quantity of
air passing through a surface of defined magnitude, under defined pressure difference and
within a determined period of time. Prolific Air Permeability Tester was used to find the
air permeability of the fabrics using BS3321: 1960 test method at 10 mm water column. A
sample size of 2”x 2” was taken and placed on the opening of the test cylinder under the
clamping place. The clamps were tightened to the samples firmly. The motor of the
vacuum pump was switched on and was opened on the biggest rotameter (fixed on the
right side of the instrument) till the required pressure difference was obtained on the
manometer. The flow rate on the scale fitted to rotameter tube against the top surface of
the float was read. The experiment was repeated five times and mean was calculated. The
experiment was conducted for the control and aroma treated fabrics at different places

32
 where warp and weft threads do not repeat. Air permeability was calculated with the help
of following formula:

Air permeability (AP) = × 100

AP = k × Rotameter reading
Where k is the conversion factor i.e. = 0.01667 (the 10cm2 area of the fabric was exposed
for checking the air permeability in cm3/seconds/cm2).
ii. Texture: Texture is the appearance of the surface of fabric. It determines the hand or feel
of the fabric. The texture of treated fabrics was got evaluated from 20 experts from the
department of Textile and Apparel Designing on five point quantum scale. For the
evaluation of the treated samples, the judges assigned the scores 5, 4, 3, 2 and 1 as very
smooth, smooth, fine, medium and rough, respectively. The scores were then summed up
to obtain the weighted mean scores. The sample which got highest score was ranked first.
The samples were conditioned prior to the determination of fabric properties under
standard test conditions.
iii. Colour change: The whiteness of the controlled as well as treated fabrics was measured
with reflectance spectrophotometer using ASTM- C1510 standard test method. The X, Y
Z and whiteness index values were calculated at 10 degree observer with D65 illuminant.
3.9 Statistical Analysis
The collected data were coded, tabulated and analyzed using suitable statistical tools
to draw the following meaningful inferences:
Frequency: Frequency was calculated and used to calculate percentage and weighted mean
score.
Percentage: Simple percentages were calculated for the analysis of data regarding retention
of aroma after washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying.
Percentage change: Percentage change was calculated for change in preliminary,
performance and comfort properties. It was obtained according to the formula:

Percentage change (%) =

Mean: Arithmetic mean was calculated by obtaining the sum of all the observations and then
divided by total number of observations in the set. In the study, mean was calculated for the
preliminary, performance and comfort properties of the fabrics.
Arithmetic mean = ⅀

Where,
X = sum of all the observations,
n = total number of observations

33
Weighted mean score: WMS quantify the data regarding preferential choice for essential oil,
intensity of aroma after washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying, weighted mean score was
calculated.

Weighted mean score =

.

Standard Deviation: The standard deviation is the positive square root of the average of the
squared devotions taken from arithmetic mean. Standard deviation was used to calculate the
error in the mean of different essential oils and in different treatment methods.
= ∑ /
Standard Error: The standard error of the mean (SEm) is the standard deviation of the
sample mean’s estimate of a population mean. In the study, the standard error was used to
calculate the error in the mean of preliminary, performance and comfort properties of selected
fabrics. SEM is usually estimated by the sample estimate of the population standard deviation
(sample standard deviation) divided by the square root of the sample size (assuming statistical
independence of the values in the sample): SE1 =
√

Where,
s = standard deviation,
n = total no of observations
Critical difference: Critical differences were worked out with the help of error variance as
described by Cochran and Cox (1957) to interpret the results. The treatment comparisons
were made at five percent level of significance. It was used to calculate difference amongst
four selected essential oils and selected treatment methods on the basis of preliminary,
performance and comfort properties of treated and untreated fabrics.

= × √2× 't' at percent

Where,
n = number of observations of that factor for which CD is to be calculated.
t = Value of Fisher's (1958)’t’ value at 5 % level.
T-test: It was applied to test the significance of change in the preliminary, performance and
comfort properties between the fabrics i.e. woven and knitted cotton. The following formula
was used:
−
=

34
CHAPTER-IV

RESULTS

The present study was undertaken to apply essential oils on woven and knitted cotton
fabrics through four methods i.e. microencapsulation, direct, resin cross-linking and
combination method to develop aroma textiles. To achieve the objectives, four essential oils
were selected on the basis of their aroma and therapeutic effects. For applying the aroma
treatment on both the fabrics, variables of treatment methods were optimized and the
treatment was applied using optimized conditions of each method on both the fabrics with all
the four essential oils. Assessment of aroma durability and testing of performance and
comfort properties of aroma treated fabrics was done. The results of the study have been
explained under the following sections:
4.1 Preliminary Data of the Selected Fabrics
4.2 Selection of Essential Oils
4.3 Standardization of Different Variables of Treatment Methods for Aroma Treatment
4.4 Application of Essential Oils on Fabrics using Optimized Variables
4.5 Microscopic Analysis of Aroma Treated Fabrics
4.6 Assessment of Aroma Durability of Treated Fabrics
4.7 Testing of Performance and Comfort Properties of Aroma Treated Fabrics
4.1 Preliminary Data of the Selected Fabrics
The selected cotton fabrics were desized and scoured which were used for further
treatment. The selected fabrics were assessed for fabric count, stitch density (knitted), weight
and thickness.
Table 1: Preliminary data of the selected fabrics

Fabrics Fabric Properties

Fabric count/ stitch density Weight Thickness ( mm)
(ends and picks/ inch)/ (gm/ m2)
(courses and wales/ inch)
Unscoured woven cotton 72 × 55 134 0.30
Scoured woven cotton 74 × 57 132 0.29
Unscoured knitted cotton 32 × 34 223 0.50
Scoured knitted cotton 33 × 36 220 0.52

The data in the Table 1 indicates that fabric count of unscoured woven cotton fabric
used for the study was having 72x55 ends and picks per square inch, weighing 134 gm/m2 and
0.30 mm thickness. Whereas, the stitch density of the unscoured knitted cotton fabric was

35
32x34 courses and wales per inch, weighing 223gm/m2 and thickness was 0.52 mm. It is
evident from the table that fabric count of scoured woven cotton fabric used for the study was
74x57 ends and picks per inch, weighing 132 gm/m2 and thickness was 0.29 mm. However,
the stitch density of scoured knitted cotton fabric was 33x36 courses and wales per square
inch, weighing 220 gm/m2 and 0.52 mm thickness. The preliminary data of the fabric was
further used to compare the preliminary properties of the controlled samples with the aroma
treated fabrics.
4.2 Selection of Essential Oils
Thirteen essential oils were got evaluated by 25 respondents and four top ranked were
selected on the basis of average mean score of aroma and therapeutic effect of the oils. The
Table 2 presents average mean score of all the thirteen oils on two parameters i.e. aroma and
therapeutic effect.
Table 2: Preferences of the respondents for essential oils for aroma textiles n-25

Parameters Average Rank

Essential oils Aroma Therapeutic effect mean
score
W.M.S.
Basil 1.64 3.76 2.70 XI
Chamomile 1.92 3.0 2.46 XIII
Eucalyptus 3.24 3.32 3.28 IX
Geranium 4.76 4.72 4.74 I
Lavender 2.76 4.08 3.42 VIII
Lemongrass 2.44 2.92 2.68 XII
Lime 4.12 4.48 4.30 IV
Palmarosa 4.40 4.52 4.46 II
Peppermint 4.16 4.68 4.42 III
Pine 3.84 4.40 4.12 V
Rosemary 2.56 3.92 3.24 X
Sage 3.32 3.92 3.62 VII
Ylang-ylang 3.20 4.32 3.76 VI
WMS – Weighted Mean Score

It is clear from the Table 2 that the geranium oil scored highest (4.74) ranked Ist
followed by palmarosa oil (4.46) ranked IInd, peppermint oil (4.42) ranked IIIrd and lime oil
(4.30) ranked IVth followed by pine, ylang-ylang, sage, lavender, eucalyptus, rosemary, basil,
lemongrass and chamomile oil. It is thus concluded that four top preferred essential oils were
geranium, palmarosa, peppermint and lime respectively which were further used for
experimental work.

36
On the basis of rank order the four selected oils are presented in Table 3.
Table 3: Selected essential oils
Sr. Common Local Botanical name Colour Aromatic Description
no. name name
1. Geranium Kachnar Pelargonium Colourless Sweet and floral
graveolens
2. Lime Nimboo Citrus aurantifolia Pale yellow to deep Refreshing, cheering and
yellow citrus
3. Palmarosa Motia Cymbopogon Yellow to light brown Sweet and floral
martinii
4. Peppermint Pudina Mentha piperita Colourless to pale yellow Powerful, sweet, fresh and
incredibly minty

4.3 Standardization of Different Variables of Treatment Methods for Aroma Treatment

As garments are subjected to different agencies like washing, abrasion, ironing and
sun-drying, the durability of treatment is a major issue. Hence, in this study different
treatment methods like microencapsulation, direct, resin cross-linking and combination were
used to fix essential oils on the fabrics. Different padding bath was prepared for each method
and different treatment variables of each method were optimized.
4.3.1 Microencapsulation method: This sub-section presents application of selected
essential oils i.e. geranium, lime, palmarosa and peppermint on cotton fabric with
microencapsulation method. Thus experiments were conducted to optimize treatment
variables namely, padding bath components, material to liquor ratio, treatment time, drying
temperature and time, curing temperature and time on the basis of presence of microcapsules,
wash durability, bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery.
4.3.1.1 Optimization of padding bath components: Padding bath of microencapsulation
method was prepared after optimization of different components of padding bath i.e.
microcapsule gel, softener and binder. Experiments were performed to optimize the different
components of padding bath. The data related to optimization of padding bath for
microencapsulation method is presented from Table 4 to 12 and Image 1-11.
Preparation of microcapsule gel: Microcapsule gel was prepared by mixing selected
essential oils, gum acacia and gelatin using the complex coacervation technique and
optimization of various variables i.e. ratio of essential oil:gum:gelatin, temperature and pH
was carried out to obtain the best results.
i. Optimization of the ratio of essential oils in microcapsule gel: Essential oil forms the
core material of the microcapsule and is basically responsible for fragrance and
therapeutic effect. Microcapsule gel was prepared using different ratio of all the four
selected oils i.e. 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5 and 3.0 keeping other variables constant as given
under section 3.4.1(A)i. The gel was observed under inverted microscope to ensure the
presence of microcapsules. The ratio of essential oil was optimized on the basis of visual

37
 assessment on three parameters i.e. size of microcapsules, uniformity in size and
distribution and wall of microcapsules.
It is evident from Table 4 and visual assessment of microcapsule gel (Image 1) that
in case of geranium and lime oil microcapsules were formed in three ratios of oil, gum
and gelatin i.e. 1:4:4, 1.5:4:4 and 2:4:4. Whereas, in case of palmarosa and peppermint oil
microcapsules were formed in four ratios of oil, gum and gelatin i.e. 1:4:4, 1.5:4:4, 2:4:4
and 2.5:4:4. Microcapsules were not formed with 0.5:4:4 and 3:4:4 ratios of oil, gum and
gelatin in all the selected oils. However with all the oils best capsules were formed at
1:4:4 ratios of oil, gum and gelatin. Hence, ranked 1st indicating medium sized
microcapsules with good uniformity in size having thick and sharp walls of capsules.
Thus, the ratio one of oil for all the four selected essential oils was used for further
optimization to achieve the best results.
ii. Optimization of ratio of gum acacia in microcapsule gel: Gum acacia forms the
wall/outer core of the microcapsule and protects the oil from abrasion, sunlight and
biodegradation thus provides a controlled release to the oil. Microcapsule gel was
prepared using different ratios of gum acacia i.e. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6.
The data presented in Table 5 and visual evaluation of microcapsule gel (Image 2)
indicates that microcapsules were formed in four ratios of oil, gum and gelatin i.e. 1:2:4,
1:3:4, 1:4:4 and 1:5:4 in case of geranium, palmarosa and peppermint oils. Whereas, in
case of lime oil capsules were formed only in three ratios i.e. 1:2:4, 1:3:4 and 1:4:4. The
microcapsules formed in the ratio of 1:2:4 in case of lime and peppermint and 1:4:4 in
case of geranium and palmarosa were medium sized, having good uniformity in size and
distribution and the walls were also sharp and thick as compared to the capsules formed in
the other ratios. Therefore, the ratio 2 of gum acacia was optimized for lime and
palmarosa and peppermint oil and 4 was optimized for geranium oil. No microcapsules
were formed at ratios 1:1:4 and 1:6:4.
iii. Optimization of ratio of gelatin in microcapsule gel: Gelatin is a common ingredient of
complex coacervation process and gives best results with gum acacia and essential oils.
Microcapsule gel was prepared using different ratios of gelatin i.e. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6.
The data presented in Table 6 and visual assessment of microcapsule gel indicates that
microcapsules were formed in the four ratios of oil, gum and gelatin i.e. 1:2:2, 1:2:3, 1:2:4
and 1:2:5 (Image 3) in case of palmarosa and peppermint oil. However, in case of geranium
oil optimized ratio of gum was 4 instead of ratio 2 so, the ratio 4 was used for optimization.

38
Table 4: Optimization of ratio of essential oils in microcapsule gel
Size of microcapsules Uniformity in size and Wall of microcapsules Rank
Ratio of
distribution
Oil: gum: gelatin
G L PR PM G L PR PM G L PR PM G L PR PM
0.5:4:4 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
1:4:4 M M M M G G A A S+Tk S+Tk S+Tk S+Tk I I I I
1.5:4:4 VS M S S VP P G G Tk S+Tn VTn VTn III II IV II
2:4 :4 L L M+S M P P P P S+Tk R Tk Tk II III II III
2.5:4:4 - - VL M - - G VP - - Tk S - - III IV
3:4:4 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Table 5: Optimization of ratio of gum acacia in microcapsule gel

Size of microcapsules Uniformity in size and Wall of microcapsules Rank

Ratio of distribution
Oil: gum: gelatin
G L PR PM G L PR PM G L PR PM G L PR PM
1:1:4 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
1:2:4 VS M S M A G A G Tn S+Tk Tn S+Tk III I I I
1:3:4 M S S M G G P VP Tn Tk Tn S+Tk II II IV III
1:4:4 M VL M M+L G VP G G S+Tk R Tk S+Tk I III II II
1:5:4 M - M L VP - VP P Tk - S+Tk R IV III IV
1:6:4 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Essential oil: G- Geranium, L- Lime, PR- Palmarosa, PM- Peppermint
Size of microcapsules: L- Large, M-Medium, S- Small, V S – Very small
Uniformity in size and distribution: G – Good, A- Average, P- Poor, VP - Very poor
Wall of microcapsules: S -Sharp, Tk- Thick, Tn- Thin, VTk- Very thick, VTn- Very thin, R- Ruptured

39
 In case of geranium and lime oils microcapsules were not formed at ratio 1:4:4 and 1:2:4
respectively. However no microcapsules were formed at ratios of gum, oil and gelatin 1:4:1
and 1:4:6 in case of geranium oil and 1:2:1and 1:2:6 in lime, palmarosa and peppermint oil.
The microcapsules formed at the ratio of 1:4:4 in geranium and 1:2:4 in lime, palmarosa
and peppermint oil were medium sized having good uniformity in size and distribution and
the walls were thick as compared to the capsules formed at other ratios. Therefore, the ratio
4 of gelatin was optimized for all the selected oils.
iv. Optimization of temperature for microencapsulation process: For optimization of
temperature, microencapsulation process was carried out at six different temperatures i.e.
30, 40, 50, 60, 70 and 80°C. The data presented in Table 7 and visual evaluation (Image
4) reveals that the microcapsules formed at 50°C were medium sized, had good
uniformity and distribution and the walls were sharp and thick for lime and palmarosa and
thick walls for geranium and peppermint oil as compared to capsules formed at other
temperatures.
Microcapsules were not formed at temperature 30° and 80°C in all the selected essential
oils. However, in case of lime oil microcapsules were not formed at temperature 70°C.
Hence, 50°C temperature was optimized and used for development of essential oil
microcapsules.
v. Optimization of pH for microencapsulation process: To optimize initial pH and the final
pH, microencapsulation was carried out with optimized ratio of oil:gum:gelatin and
temperature. Microcapsule gel was initially started at pH 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 5.5, 6.0, 6.5 and 7.0.
After the completion of microencapsulation process, the final pH of the gel was set at 7.0, 7.5,
8.0, 8.5, 9.0, 9.5 and 10.
Table 8 reveals that microcapsules were formed only when the initial pH ranged from
4 to 5 and final pH ranged from 9 to 10. The pH range other than this was not suitable for
phase separation and microcapsule gel formation of all the four selected essential oils.
As apparent from Table 9 and visual analysis of microcapsule gel that microcapsules
formed at initial pH 4.5 and final pH 9.0 were medium sized with uniform distribution
having thick and sharp walls as in case of geranium, lime and palmarosa (Image 5).
Further it was also found that peppermint oil capsules were formed at initial pH 4.0 and
final pH 10.0. Hence, these pH values were used for further experimental work as
optimum initial and final pH for microencapsulation process of selected essential oils.

40
 Rank 1 (1:4:4) Rank- II (2:4:4) Rank-III (1.5:4:4)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (1:4:4) Rank- II (1.5:4:4) Rank- III (2:4:4)

Lime oil

Rank- I (1:4:4) Rank- II (2:4:4) Rank- III (2.5:4:4) Rank- IV (1.5:4:4)

Palmarosa oil

Rank – I (1:4:4) Rank – II (1.5:4:4) Rank – III (2:4:4) Rank – IV (2.5:4:4)

Peppermint oil
Image 1: Microcapsules at different ratios of essential oils
Rank- I (1:4:4) Rank- II (1:3:4) Rank- III (1:2:4) Rank- IV (1:5:4)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (1:2:4) Rank- II (1:3:4) Rank-III (1:4:4)

Lime oil

Rank- I (1:2:4) Rank- II (1:5:4) Rank- III (1:3:4) Rank- IV (1:4:4)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (1:2:4) Rank- II (1:4:4) Rank- III (1:3:4) Rank- IV (1:5:4)

Peppermint oil
Image 2: Essential oils microcapsules at different ratios of gum acacia
Table 6: Optimization of ratio of gelatin in microcapsule gel

Size of microcapsules Uniformity in size and Wall of microcapsules Rank

Ratio of distribution
Oil: gum: gelatin
G L PR PM G L PR PM G L PR PM G L PR PM
1:2/4:1 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
1:2/4:2 - - S S - - A P - - Tk Tk - - IV III
1:2/4:3 M+L S+M M M P A VP A S+Tk Tn Tk Tk III III III II
1:2/4:4 M M M M G G G G Tk Tk Tk Tk I I I I
1:2/4:5 M L+M L L A P G P Tk+R S+Tk S+Tk S+Tk II II II IV
1:2/4:6 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Table 7: Optimization of temperature for microencapsulation process

Size of microcapsules Uniformity in size and Wall of microcapsules Rank
Temperature distribution
(ºC)
G L PR PM G L PR PM G L PR PM G L PR PM
30 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
40 S S+M S V.S G A P A Tk Tk S+Tk Tn III II II IV
50 M M M M G G G G Tk S+Tk S+Tk Tk I I I I
60 M L L M P P G A S+T Tn+R Tk S +Tk II III III II
70 VL - M L A - P P R - Tk S+ Tk IV - IV III
80 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Essential oil: G- Geranium, L- Lime, PR- Palmarosa, PM- Peppermint
Size of microcapsules: L- Large, M-Medium, S- Small, VS – Very small
Uniformity in size and distribution: G – Good, A- Average, P- Poor, VP - Very poor
Wall of microcapsules: S -Sharp, Tk- Thick, Tn- Thin, VTk- Very thick, VTn- Very thin, R- Ruptured

41
 Table 8: Formation of essential oils microcapsules at different pH
Initial pH 4.0 4.5 5.0 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0
Final pH Formation of microcapsules
7.0 x x X x x x x
7.5 x x X x x x x
8.0 x x X x x x x
8.5 x x X x x x x
9.0 Formed Formed Formed x x x x
9.5 Formed Formed Formed x x x x
10.0 Formed Formed Formed x x x x

Table 9: Optimization of pH for microencapsulation process

pH Size of microcapsules Uniformity in size and distribution Wall of microcapsules Rank
initial/final G L PR PM G L PR PM G L PR PM G L PR PM
4.0/9.0 S VS S S A A A P VTn VTn Tn Tn VI VII VI VI
4.0/9.5 S S S+M S+M P VP A A Tn S+Tn S+Tk S+Tk VII VI V V
4.0/10.0 VS M S M P A G G VTn Tk Tk S+Tk IX II II I
4.5/9.0 M M M M G G G P S+T S+Tk S+Tk Tk I I I II
4.5/9.5 M M+L M M A P A A S+T Tk S+Tk S+Tk II III III III
4.5/10.0 M S M+L S P G A A Tn Tn S+Tk Tn VI IV IV IV
5.0/9.0 M L L M A A A VP Tk Tk R Tk III V VII VII
5.0/9.5 M+L L VL L A P P P Tk R R R IV VIII VIII VIII
5.0/10.0 S VL VL VL A A P P Tn W+R R R V IX IX IX
Essential oil: G- Geranium, L- Lime, PR- Palmarosa, PM- Peppermint
Size of microcapsules: L- Large, M-Medium, S- Small, VS – Very small
Uniformity in size and distribution: G – Good, A- Average, P- Poor, VP - Very poor
Wall of microcapsules: S -Sharp, Tk- Thick, Tn- Thin, VTk- Very thick, VTn- Very thin, R- Ruptured

42
 Rank- I (1:4:4) Rank- II (1:4:5) Rank- III (1:4:3)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (1:2:4) Rank- II (1:2:5) Rank- III (1:2:3)

Lime oil

Rank-I (1:2:4) Rank- II (1:2:5) Rank- III (1:2:3) Rank-IV (1:2:2)

Palmarosa oil

Rank - I (1:2:4) Rank - II (1:2:3) Rank - III (1:2:2) Rank - IV (1:2:5)

Peppermint oil

Image 3: Essential oils microcapsules at different ratios of gelatin

Rank- I (50°C) Rank- II (60°C) Rank- III (40°C) Rank- IV(70°C)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (50°C) Rank- II (40°C) Rank- III (60°C)

Lime oil

Rank- I (50°C) Rank- II (40°C) Rank- III (60°C) Rank- IV (70°C)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (50°C) Rank- II (60°C) Rank- III (70°C) Rank- IV (40°C)

Peppermint oil

Image 4: Essential oils microcapsules at different temperatures

Rank- I (4.5/9.0) Rank- II (4.5/9.5) Rank- III (5.0/9.0) Rank- IV (5.0/9.5)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (4.5/9.0) Rank- II (4.0/10.0) Rank- III (4.5/9.5) Rank-IV (4.5/10.0)

Lime oil

Rank- I (4.5/9.0) Rank- II (4.0/10.0) Rank- III (4.5/9.5) Rank-IV (4.5/10.0)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (4.0/10.0) Rank- II (4.5/9.0) Rank- III (4.5/9.5) Rank-IV (4.5/10.0)

Peppermint oil

Image 5: Essential oils microcapsules at different initial and final pH

 So, it can be concluded that best results were obtained when the ratio of
oil:gum:gelatin was 1:4:4, at 50ºC temperature having initial pH 4.5 and final pH 9.0 in case
of geranium oil. However, for lime, palmarosa and peppermint oil the optimized ratio of oil:
gum: gelatin was 1:2:4, at 50ºC temperature. Initial and final pH was (4.5 and 9.0) for lime
and palamrosa and (4.0 and 10.0) for peppermint oil respectively. The microcapsules formed
with these optimized conditions were medium having good uniformity in size and distribution
with sharp and thick walls of capsules.
After the preparation of microcapsules gel with optimized variables, padding bath was
prepared using microcapsule gel, softener and binder for application of microcapsules gel on the
selected fabrics. The components of padding bath were optimized on the basis of presence of
microcapsules on the fabric examined through e-scope.
I Optimization of the proportion of microcapsule gel: To optimize the proportion of
microcapsule gel, four different proportions of microcapsule gel i.e. 30, 40, 50 and 60 g/l
were used to prepare the padding bath. The fabric was dipped into the bath with 110-120
expressions and passed through padding mangle rollers and dried at 80-85ºC for 5 minutes
and cured at 110ºC for 3 minutes (Thiagavanti et. al., 2006). Optimum ratio of microcapsule
gel was selected on the basis of presence of microcapsules on the fabric observed under e-
scope, wash durability, bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery angle.
The data presented in Table 10 and visual analysis of geranium treated woven fabric
indicated that at 60:1:5 proportion of microcapsule gel:softener:binder, too many
microcapsules were present on the fabric surfaces (Image 6) and their wash durability
lasted till 20 wash cycles with increased bending length (3.98) and flexural rigidity
(29.24) and decreased crease recovery (71.13). In the ratio of 50:1:5 many microcapsules
were present on the fabric surfaces and their wash durability lasted till 20 wash cycles
with decreased bending length (3.82), flexural rigidity (28.94) and the crease recovery
(71.75) was more as compared to the ratio 60:1:5. At other proportions few to very few
microcapsules were present on the fabric surface. But in case of geranium treated knitted
fabric at the proportion of 30:1:5, no microcapsules were found on the fabric surface. So,
the proportion of 50 was optimized for microcapsule gel of geranium and further work
was carried out. Same trend was observed with other oil i.e. lime, palmarosa and
peppermint on both the selected fabrics, thus proportion 50 of microcapsule gel was
optimized for all the essential oils.
II Optimization of proportion of softener: For optimizing softener in padding bath of
microencapsulation method, different proportions of softener i.e. 1, 3, 5 and 7 g/l were
tried with optimized proportion of microcapsule gel 50 (g/l) and keeping binder
proportion constant 5 g/l. The padding process was carried out and proportion of softener
was optimized.

43
Table 10: Optimization of the proportion of microcapsule gel in padding bath
Proportion of Fabrics Presence of Parameters
Essential microcapsules gel: microcapsules Wash durability Bending length (cm) Average Flexural Crease recovery Average Rank
oils softener :binder on fabric (wash cycles) bending rigidity (degree) crease
5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft length (cm) (mg-cm) Warp Weft recovery
(degree)
30:1:5 Woven Very few  × × × × × 4.13 2.91 3.52 27.30 74.32 70.12 72.22 IV
Knitted No × × × × × × 3.51 1.59 2.55 22.08 88.98 79.86 84.17 IV
40:1:5 Woven Few   × × × × 4.34 3.72 3.72 28.58 74.11 69.70 72.05 III
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.63 2.60 2.60 23.39 88.26 78.64 83.06 III
Geranium
50:1:5 Woven Too many     × × 4.41 3.82 3.82 28.94 73.68 69.32 71.75 I
Knitted Too many     × × 3.81 2.81 2.81 25.55 87.32 78.12 83.31 I
60:1:5 Woven Too many     × × 4.53 3.98 3.98 29.24 72.96 69.00 71.13 II
Knitted Too many     × × 3.94 2.91 2.91 25.92 86.78 77.69 82.96 II
30:1:5 Woven Very few  × × × × × 3.90 2.90 3.40 26.91 74.86 70.98 72.92 IV
Knitted No × × × × × × 3.20 1.60 2.40 14.91 88.64 79.78 84.21 IV
40:1:5 Woven Few   × × × × 4.31 3.00 3.65 28.61 74.21 70.74 72.62 III
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.34 1.82 2.58 16.30 87.31 79.54 84.02 III
Lime
50:1:5 Woven Too many     × × 4.20 3.24 3.72 29.15 73.39 70.56 72.32 I
Knitted Too many     × × 3.50 1.89 2.69 17.07 86.29 79.32 83.80 I
60:1:5 Woven Too many     × × 4.35 3.40 3.87 29.98 72.45 70.31 72.00 II
Knitted Too many     × × 3.80 2.00 2.90 19.60 85.32 78.83 83.42 II
30:1:5 Woven Very few  × × × × × 3.92 2.61 3.26 27.39 74.23 70.00 72.11 IV
Knitted No × × × × × × 3.40 1.72 2.56 22.19 88.62 79.73 84.17 IV
40:1:5 Woven Few   × × × × 4.02 2.92 3.47 30.64 73.47 69.98 71.97 III
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.51 1.85 2.68 23.41 88.27 79.54 84.01 III
Palmarosa
50:1:5 Woven Too many     × × 4.27 3.30 3.78 34.58 72.34 69.84 71.89 I
Knitted Too many     × × 3.72 1.99 2.85 25.96 87.72 79.32 83.72 I
60:1:5 Woven Too many     × × 4.39 3.32 3.85 31.94 71.65 69.24 71.42 II
Knitted Too Many     × × 3.91 2.10 3.00 26.30 87.11 78.91 83.38 II
30:1:5 Woven Very few  × × × × × 4.00 2.80 3.41 26.49 74.94 71.04 72.99 IV
Knitted No × × × × × × 3.50 1.60 2.55 22.09 88.71 79.98 84.34 IV
40:1:5 Woven Few   × × × × 4.20 3.00 3.60 28.35 74.23 70.86 72.64 III
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.52 1.70 2.61 23.85 88.13 79.62 83.92 III
Peppermint
50:1:5 Woven Too many     × × 4.52 3.11 3.81 28.91 73.52 70.44 72.28 I
Knitted Too many     × × 3.60 1.78 2.69 24.31 87.53 79.23 83.63 I
60:1:5 Woven Too many     × × 4.60 3.40 4.00 29.72 72.74 70.26 72.06 II
Knitted Too many     × × 3.80 1.90 2.85 25.12 87.09 79.01 83.35 II

44
 Rank- I (50:1:5) Rank- II (60:1:5) Rank- III (40:1:5) Rank- IV (30:1:5)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (50:1:5) Rank- II (60:1:5) Rank- III (40:1:5) Rank- IV (30:1:5)

Lime oil

Rank- I (50:1:5) Rank- II (60:1:5) Rank- III (40:1:5) Rank- IV (30:1:5)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (50:1:5) Rank- II (60:1:5) Rank- III (40:1:5) Rank- IV (50:1:5)

Peppermint oil
Image: 6 Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different proportions of microcapsules gel
 Rank- I (50:1:5) Rank- II (60:1:5) Rank- III (40:1:5) Rank- IV (30:1:5)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (50:1:5) Rank- II (60:1:5) Rank- III (40:1:5) Rank- IV (30:1:5)

Lime oil

Rank- I (50:1:5) Rank- II (60:1:5) Rank- III (40:1:5) Rank- IV (30:1:5)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (50:1:5) Rank- II (60:1:5) Rank- III (40:1:5) Rank- IV (30:1:5)

Peppermint oil
Image: 7 Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different proportions of microcapsules gel
Table 11: Optimization of the proportion of softener in padding bath
Proportion of Fabrics Presence of Parameters
Essential microcapsules microcapsules Wash durability Bending length Average Flexural Crease recovery Average crease Rank
oils gel: softener on fabric (wash cycles) (cm) bending rigidity (degree) recovery
:binder length (cm) (degree)
5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft (mg-cm) Warp Weft
50:1:5 Woven Many    × × × 4.53 3.25 3.89 32.25 73.24 69.00 71.12 II
Knitted Many    × × × 3.82 2.21 3.01 26.24 87.12 78.02 82.57 II
50:3:5 Woven Too many     × × 4.32 3.12 3.85 31.94 73.70 69.68 71.69 I
Knitted Too many     × × 3.50 2.03 2.76 25.31 87.58 78.73 83.10 I
Geranium
50:5:5 Woven Few   × × × × 4.11 3.03 3.57 30.62 73.56 69.79 71.67 III
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.48 2.11 2.79 25.03 87.56 79.13 83.49 III
50:7:5 Woven Very few  × × × × × 3.99 2.94 3.46 29.81 73.98 70.34 72.16 IV
Knitted Very few  × × × × × 3.01 1.99 2.50 24.64 88.32 80.29 84.28 IV
50:1:5 Woven Too many     × × 4.39 3.18 3.78 32.62 73.75 68.49 71.12 II
Knitted Many    × × × 3.73 2.31 3.02 26.79 87.54 78.23 82.88 I
50:3:5 Woven Too many     × × 4.27 3.11 3.69 31.94 74.03 68.82 71.42 I
Knitted Too many     × × 3.31 2.02 2.66 25.43 88.29 78.54 83.41 III
Lime
50:5:5 Woven Few   × × × × 4.10 3.00 3.55 31.36 74.61 69.15 71.88 III
Knitted Very few  × × × × × 3.14 1.89 2.51 24.05 88.96 78.89 83.92 IV
50:7:5 Woven Very few  × × × × × 3.98 2.99 3.48 30.96 74.92 69.73 72.32 IV
Knitted Very few  × × × × × 2.91 1,83 2.37 23.84 89.24 79.36 84.30 IV
50:1:5 Woven Many    × × × 4.40 3.24 3.82 32.62 73.64 69.94 71.79 II
Knitted Many    × × × 3.92 2.39 3.15 26.98 87.54 79.84 83.69 II
50:3:5 Woven Too many     × × 4.22 3.17 3.69 31.86 73.76 70.23 71.99 I
Knitted Too many     × × 3.44 2.72 3.08 26.32 87.89 80.01 83.95 I
Palmarosa
50:5:5 Woven Few   × × × × 4.14 3.01 3.57 30.51 73.94 70.58 72.26 III
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.12 2.21 2.66 25.62 88.23 80.24 84.24 III
50:7:5 Woven Very few  × × × × × 4.00 2.99 3.49 29.00 74.25 70.67 72.46 IV
Knitted Very few  × × × × × 2.94 1.87 2.40 25.04 88.72 80.65 84.68 IV
50:1:5 Woven Many    × × × 4.12 3.37 3.74 32.82 73.89 69.19 71.54 II
Knitted Many    × × × 3.91 2.24 3.07 24.89 87.04 77.68 82.36 II
50:3:5 Woven Too many     × × 4.34 3.12 3.58 31.51 74.56 70.04 72.03 I
Knitted Too many     × × 3.41 2.15 2.78 25.34 87.62 78.56 83.09 I
Peppermint
50:5:5 Woven Few   × × × × 3.99 2.94 3.46 31.03 74.91 70.59 72.75 III
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.12 2.00 2.56 26.78 88.39 79.24 83.81 III
50:7:5 Woven Very few  × × × × × 3.90 2.91 3.40 30.86 75.41 71.43 73.42 IV
Knitted Very few  × × × × × 3.00 1.94 2.47 23.32 88.98 80.63 84.80 IV

45
 The data presented in Table 11 and visual analysis of geranium treated woven fabric
indicated that at proportion of 50:1:5 and 50:3:5 (microcapsule gel:softener:binder) many to too
many microcapsules were present on the fabric surface (Image 8) and their wash durability
lasted till 20 wash cycles. At the ratio of 50:1:5, bending length (3.89) and flexural rigidity
(32.25) was more, however the crease recovery (71.12) was less. At the proportion, of 50:3:5
average bending length (3.85), flexural rigidity (31.94) and the crease recovery (71.69) was
observed and analyzed as comparable to the ratio of 50:1:5. In other ratios few to very few
microcapsules were present on the fabric surface. It was observed that with further increase in
softener proportions, lesser number of microcapsules were present on the fabric surface and
their wash durability also decreased. Similar pattern was seen in other three oils i.e. lime,
palmarosa and peppermint on both the selected fabrics. Thus proportion 3 g/l (50:3:5) was
optimized for the softener.
III Optimization of proportion of binder: Four different proportions of binder i.e. 5, 10,
15 and 20 g/l were tried with optimized proportion of microcapsule gel and softener. The
padding process was carried out for optimization of proportion of binder.
It is clear from Table 12 and visual assessment of geranium treated woven fabric that
many numbers of microcapsules were present on the fabric surface at three proportions
i.e. 50:3:10, 50:3:15 and 50:3:20 (Image 10) and at the ratio of 50:3:5, few microcapsules
were present on the fabric surface of both the fabrics with each oil. The wash durability at
proportion 50:1:10 lasted till 15 wash cycles and at proportions i.e. 50:3:15 and 50:3:20,
the wash durability lasted till 20 wash cycles with too many microcapsules present on
both the fabrics. Hence to optimize the proportion of binder, bending length, flexural
rigidity and crease recovery were compared and it was found that fabric treated with
50:3:15 proportion of microcapsule gel, softener and binder had less average bending
length (4.32), flexural rigidity (33.13) and more crease recovery (71.43) as compared to
fabric treated with 50:1:20 proportion that had more bending length (4.49), flexural
rigidity (33.99) and less crease recovery (71.41). Similar trend was found in case of both
the fabrics treated with other three essential oils. Thus the proportion of binder 15 g/l
(50:3:15) was optimized and further optimizations were carried out.
4.3.1.2 Optimization of MLR for padding bath: For application of microcapsules of essential
oils, the padding bath was prepared with different MLR i.e. 1:20, 1:30 and 1:40 with the
optimized proportions of microcapsule gel:softener:binder (50:3:15). The padding process was
carried out and optimization of MLR was done.
Data in Table 13 and visual analysis of geranium treated woven fabric revealed that at
MLR 1:20, too many microcapsules were present on the fabric surfaces (Image 12) and their
wash durability lasted till 20 wash cycles in woven cotton fabric whereas in knitted fabric the
microcapsule were less as compared to woven and wash durability lasted till 15 wash cycles

46
Rank- I (50:3:5) Rank- II (50:1:5) Rank- III (50:5:5) Rank- IV (50:7:5)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (50:3:5) Rank- II (50:1:5) Rank- III (50:5:5) Rank- IV (50:7:5)

Lime oil

Rank- I (50:3:5) Rank- II (50:1:5) Rank- III (50:5:5) Rank- IV (50:7:5)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (50:3:5) Rank- II (50:1:5) Rank- III (50:5:5) Rank- IV (50:7:5)

Peppermint oil
Image: 8 Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different proportions of softener
Rank- I (50:3:5) Rank- II (50:1:5) Rank- III (50:5:5) Rank- IV (50:7:5)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (50:3:5) Rank- II (50:1:5) Rank- III (50:5:5) Rank- IV (50:7:5)

Lime oil

Rank- I (50:3:5) Rank- II (50:1:5) Rank- III (50:5:5) Rank- IV (50:7:5)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (50:3:5) Rank- II (50:1:5) Rank- III (50:5:5) Rank- IV (50:7:5)

Peppermint oil
Image: 9 Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different proportions of softener
with an average bending length (4.19 and 3.12), flexural rigidity (33.67 and 25.89) and crease
recovery (70.49 and 82.37) respectively. It was observed that with further increase in MLR,
the presence of microcapsules on fabrics as well as their wash durability decreased. Similar
pattern was observed with the other three oils i.e. lime, palmarosa and peppermint on both the
fabrics. Thus the MLR 1:20 was optimized for all the four essential oils and both the fabrics
for further work.
4.3.1.3 Optimization of treatment time: For application of essential oils, the padding bath
was prepared with optimized variables i.e. microcapsule gel:softener:binder (50:3:15) at MLR
1:20. For optimization of treatment time, fabrics were immersed in padding bath for different
time durations i.e. 20, 30 and 40 minutes. The padding process was carried out and treatment
time was optimized.
Data in Table 14 reveals that in both woven and knitted fabrics treated with all
selected essential oils for 30 minutes, too many microcapsules were present on fabric surface
with wash durability of 25 and 20 wash cycles (Image 13-14) respectively whereas bending
length (4.17 to 4.21 and 3.08 to 3.09) and flexural rigidity decreased (32.86 to 33.46 and
27.91 to 28.11) and crease recovery increased (70.81 to 71.09 and 82.17 to 82.27) as
compared to treatment time 20 and 40 minutes.
In case of geranium treated woven fabric, with 20 minutes treatment time too many
microcapsules with wash durability of 20 wash cycles were observed but bending length and
flexural rigidity increased (4.21 and 33.63) and crease recovery (70.81) decreased as
compared to 30 minutes treatment time. Whereas in case of knitted fabric with a treatment
time of 20 minutes, lesser number of microcapsules were seen with wash durability of 20
wash cycles.
In case of 40 minutes treatment time, lesser number of microcapsules were found as
compared to 30 minutes on both the fabrics and in all the selected essential oils with a wash
durability of 15 and 10 wash cycles for woven and knitted fabrics respectively. Also increased
bending length, flexural rigidity and decreased crease recovery was observed.
Hence, after comparing the results, 30 minutes treatment time was optimized for both
the selected fabrics treated with all the selected essential oils.
4.3.1.4 Determination of optimum drying temperature and time
The essential oils were applied on woven and knitted cotton fabrics using optimum
variables of padding process and experiments were conducted to determine the optimum drying
temperature and time on the basis of microcapsules present on the fabric surfaces, bending
length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery.

47
Table 12: Optimization of the proportion of binder in padding bath
Proportion of Fabrics Presence of Parameters
Essential oils microcapsules gel: microcapsules Wash durability Bending Average Flexural Crease recovery Average crease Rank
softener: binder on fabric (wash cycles) length (cm) bending rigidity (degree) recovery
5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft length (cm) (mg-cm) Warp Weft (degree)
50:3:5 Woven Few   × × × × 4.25 3.12 3.68 32.24 74.56 70.32 72.44 IV
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.13 2.01 2.57 24.65 87.43 80.25 83.48 IV
50:3:10 Woven Many    × × × 4.74 3.52 4.13 32.70 74.12 69.76 71.95 III
Knitted Many    × × × 3.51 2.18 2.84 25.32 86.81 79.32 83.06 III
Geranium
50:3: 15 Woven Too Many     × × 4.93 3.72 4.32 33.13 73.63 69.24 71.43 I
Knitted Too Many     × × 3.87 2.43 3.15 26.64 86.22 78.43 82.32 I
50:3:20 Woven Too many     × × 4.94 3.89 4.49 33.99 73.99 68.84 71.41 II
Knitted Too many     × × 3.95 2.51 3.23 26.15 85.73 77.13 81.43 II
50:3:5 Woven Few   × × × × 4.23 3.41 3.82 33.12 73.78 69.16 71.47 IV
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.26 1.99 2.62 25.62 86.25 78.85 82.55 IV
50:3:10 Woven Many    × × × 4.59 3.60 4.09 33.60 72.53 68.61 70.57 III
Knitted Many    × × × 3.59 2.12 2.85 26.14 85.74 78.38 82.06 III
Lime
50:3:15 Woven Too Many     × × 4.76 3.82 4.29 33.98 72.15 68.24 70.19 I
Knitted Too Many     × × 3.77 2.28 3.02 26.53 85.33 77.73 81.53 I
50:3:20 Woven Too many     × × 4.82 3.84 4.33 34.49 71.59 67.76 69.61 II
Knitted Too many     × × 3.99 2.53 3.26 26.94 84.41 77.46 80.93 II
50:3:5 Woven Few   × × × × 4.47 3.24 3.85 33.14 74.25 69.49 71.87 IV
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.25 2.12 2.68 25.00 87.00 79.48 83.24 IV
50:3:10 Woven Many    × × × 4.79 3.58 4.18 33.54 73.88 68.53 71.20 III
Knitted Many    × × × 3.67 2.54 3.01 25.69 86.69 78.24 82.46 III
Palmarosa
50:3:15 Woven Too Many     × × 4.84 3.71 4.27 33.82 73.18 68.22 70.70 I
Knitted Too Many     × × 3.72 2.51 3.11 25.91 86.13 77.00 81.56 I
50:3:20 Woven Too Many     × × 4.90 3.79 4.34 34.26 72.89 67.75 70.32 II
Knitted Too Many     × × 3.89 2.53 3.21 26.34 85.70 76.46 81.08 II
50:3:5 Woven Few   × × × × 4.53 3.24 3.88 32.45 73.43 69.00 71.21 IV
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.19 2.03 2.61 25.43 86.32 79.12 82.72 IV
50:3:10 Woven Many    × × × 4.79 3.62 4.20 32.90 72.29 68.74 70.51 III
Knitted Many    × × × 3.41 2.16 2.78 25.78 85.77 78.85 82.31 III
Peppermint
50:3:15 Woven Too Many     × × 4.86 3.83 4.34 33.39 71.87 68.35 70.11 I
Knitted Too Many     × × 3.64 2.39 3.01 26.24 85.42 78.24 81.83 I
50:3:20 Woven Too many     × × 4.99 3.81 4.40 33.98 71.24 67.79 69.51 II
Knitted Too many     × × 3.79 2.49 3.14 26.81 84.63 77.58 81.10 II

48
Rank- I (50:3:15) Rank- II (50:3:20) Rank- III (50:3:10) Rank- IV (50:3:5)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (50:3:15) Rank- II (50:3:20) Rank- III (50:3:10) Rank- IV (50:3:5)

Lime oil

Rank- I (50:3:15) Rank- II (50:3:20) Rank- III (50:3:10) Rank- IV (50:3:5)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (50:3:15) Rank- II (50:3:20) Rank- III (50:3:10) Rank- IV (50:3:5)

Peppermint oil
Image: 10 Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different proportions of binder
Rank- I (50:3:15) Rank- II (50:3:20) Rank- III (50:3:10) Rank- IV (50:3:5)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (50:3:15) Rank- II (50:3:20) Rank- III (50:3:10) Rank- IV (50:3:5)

Lime oil

Rank- I (50:3:15) Rank- II (50:3:20) Rank- III (50:3:10) Rank- IV (50:3:5)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (50:3:15) Rank- II (50:3:20) Rank- III (50:3:10) Rank- IV (50:3:5)

Peppermint oil
Image: 11 Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different proportions of binder
Table 13: Optimization of MLR of padding bath
Essential oils MLR Fabrics Presence of Parameters
microcapsules Wash durability Bending length Average bending Flexural Crease recovery Average crease Rank
on fabric (wash cycles) (cm) length (cm) rigidity (degree) recovery (degree)
5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft (mg-cm) Warp Weft
Woven Too Many     × × 4.85 3.54 4.19 33.67 72.69 68.29 70.49 I
1:20
Knitted Many    × × × 3.74 2.52 3.12 25.89 86.62 78.12 82.37 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.82 3.51 4.16 33.24 72.84 68.42 70.63 II
Geranium 1:30
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.72 2.49 3.10 25.72 86.74 78.31 82.52 II
Woven Few   × × × × 4.80 3.51 4.15 33.10 72.83 68.49 70.66 III
1:40
Knitted Very few  × × × × × 3.72 2.45 3.08 25.58 86.96 78.38 82.67 III
Woven Too Many     × × 4.84 3.59 4.21 33.79 72.42 68.19 70.30 I
1:20
Knitted Many    × × × 3.71 2.51 3.11 25.98 86.75 78.20 82.47 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.81 3.53 4.17 33.52 72.83 68.23 70.53 II
Lime 1:30
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.68 2.45 3.06 25.63 86.79 78.51 82.65 II
Woven Few   × × × × 4.79 3.51 4.15 33.41 73.49 68.43 70.96 III
1:40
Knitted Very few  × × × × × 3.65 2.43 3.04 25.47 86.99 78.42 82.70 III
Woven Too Many     × × 4.91 3.61 4.26 33.82 72.32 68.02 70.17 I
1:20
Knitted Many    × × × 3.74 2.49 3.11 25.92 86.74 78.15 82.44 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.88 3.60 4.24 33.65 72.68 68.23 70.45 II
Palmarosa 1:30
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.69 2.39 3.04 25.76 86.93 78.30 82.61 II
Woven Few   × × × × 4.72 3.50 4.11 33.29 72.94 68.45 70.69 III
1:40
Knitted Very few  × × × × × 3.54 2.35 2.94 25.54 87.13 78.49 82.81 III
Woven Too Many     × × 4.85 3.54 4.19 33.69 72.68 68.27 70.47 I
1:20
Knitted Many    × × × 3.71 2.53 3.12 25.92 86.60 78.22 82.41 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.86 3.49 4.17 33.38 72.94 68.34 70.64 II
Peppermint 1:30
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.68 2.47 3.07 25.67 86.73 78.32 82.52 II
Woven Few   × × × × 4.80 3.45 4.12 33.09 73.42 68.49 70.95 III
1:40
Knitted Very few  × × × × × 3.67 2.45 3.06 25.58 86.98 78.64 82.81 III

49
Table 14: Optimization of treatment time of padding bath
Essential Treatment time Fabrics Presence of Parameters
oils (min.) microcapsules Rank
Wash durability Bending length Average Flexural Crease Average crease
on fabric (cm) recovery
(wash cycles) bending rigidity recovery
(degree) (degree)
length (cm) (mg-cm)
5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft Warp Weft
Woven Too many     × × 4.86 3.56 4.21 33.63 72.91 68.72 70.81 II
20
Knitted Too many     × × 3.65 2.58 3.11 28.31 85.32 78.45 81.88 II
Woven Too many      × 4.82 3.54 4.18 33.12 73.13 68.85 70.99 I
Geranium 30
Knitted Too many     × × 3.62 2.56 3.09 28.05 85.65 78.69 82.17 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.89 3.57 4.23 33.78 72.69 68.64 70.66 III
40
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.67 2.59 3.13 28.49 85.13 78.43 81.78 III
Woven Too many     × × 4.87 3.51 4.19 33.29 72.89 68.72 70.80 II
20
Knitted Too many     × × 3.64 2.57 3.10 28.31 85.40 78.59 81.99 II
Woven Too many      × 4.87 3.48 4.17 32.86 73.28 68.91 71.09 I
Lime 30
Knitted Too many     × × 3.60 2.54 3.08 27.91 85.69 78.86 82.27 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.89 3.58 4.23 33.75 72.65 68.64 70.64 III
40
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.66 2.61 3.13 28.63 85.11 78.42 81.76 III
Woven Too many     × × 4.91 3.54 4.22 33.62 72.86 68.63 70.74 II
20
Knitted Many     × × 3.64 2.57 3.10 28.28 85.39 78.54 82.96 II
Woven Too many      × 4.86 3.55 4.21 33.45 72.91 68.72 70.81 I
Palmarosa 30
Knitted Too many     × × 3.62 2.54 3.08 27.96 85.71 78.83 82.27 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.92 3.59 4.25 33.89 72.65 68.21 70.43 III
40
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.68 2.59 3.13 28.57 85.11 78.39 81.75 III
Woven Too many     × × 4.83 3.54 4.18 33.26 73.14 68.75 70.94 II
20
Knitted Many     × × 3.68 2.53 3.11 28.41 85.30 78.43 81.86 II
Woven Too many      × 4.81 3.54 4.17 32.94 73.28 68.91 71.09 I
Peppermint 30
Knitted Too many     × × 3.66 2.52 3.09 28.11 85.65 78.69 82.17 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.89 3.56 4.22 33.58 72.86 68.63 70.74 III
40
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.71 2.53 3.13 28.56 85.09 78.34 81.71 III

50
Rank- I (1:20) Rank- II (1:30) Rank- III (1:40)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (1:20) Rank- II (1:30) Rank- III (1:40)

Lime oil

Rank- I (1:20) Rank- II (1:30) Rank- III (1:40)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (1:20) Rank- II (1:30) Rank- III (1:40)

Peppermint oil
Image: 12 Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different MLR
Rank- I (1:20) Rank- II (1:30) Rank- III (1:40)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (1:20) Rank- II (1:30) Rank- III (1:40)

Lime oil

Rank- I (1:20) Rank- II (1:30) Rank- III (1:40)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (1:20) Rank- II (1:30) Rank- III (1:40)

Peppermint oil
Image: 13 Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different MLR
Rank- I (30min.) Rank- II (40 min.) Rank- III (50 min.)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (30min.) Rank- II (40 min.) Rank- III (50 min.)

Lime oil

Rank- I (30min.) Rank- II (40 min.) Rank- III (50 min.)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (30min.) Rank- II (40 min.) Rank- III (50 min.)

Peppermint oil
Image: 14 Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different treatment time
Rank- I (30min.) Rank- II (40 min.) Rank- III (50 min.)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (30min.) Rank- II (40 min.) Rank- III (50 min.)

Lime oil

Rank- I (30min.) Rank- II (40 min.) Rank- III (50 min.)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (30min.) Rank- II (40 min.) Rank- III (50 min.)

Peppermint oil
Image: 15 Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different treatment time
i. Optimization of drying temperature: After treatment of selected fabrics with optimized
conditions of padding process, the fabrics were dried at 70°, 80°, 90° and 100°C to
optimize the drying temperature. The results enumerating the optimization of drying
temperature for the application of essential oils on both the selected fabrics in terms of
microcapsules present on the fabrics and effect on properties are presented below:
As apparent from Table 15 and visual analysis of woven fabric treated with all the
oils clearly depicts that at temperature 80°C, too many microcapsules were present on the
fabric (Image-16) and their wash durability lasted till 25 wash cycles with an average
bending length and flexural rigidity i.e. 4.18 cm and 33.54 mg-cm and 71.14 degree
crease recovery. At temperature 90°C geranium and peppermint treated knitted fabric
whereas at temperature 70° and 80°C in case of lime and palmarosa treated knitted fabric,
too many microcapsules were present on the fabric (Image 17) and their wash durability
lasted till 20 wash cycles with an average bending length, flexural rigidity and crease
recovery angle. At other two drying temperatures i.e. 90°C and 100°C, few microcapsules
were present with increased bending length, flexural rigidity and decreased crease
recovery and at these temperatures microcapsules started rupturing as compared to drying
temperature at 80°C in case of woven fabric. Palmarosa and peppermint oil treated woven
fabric showed similar bending length i.e. 4.2 cm. Woven fabric treated with all the
essential oils at drying temperature 80°C, too many microcapsules were present and their
wash durability lasted till 25 wash cycles with decrease in bending length, flexural
rigidity and increased crease recovery as compared to temperatures 90° and 100°C.
Whereas, for knitted fabric treated with all the oils at temperature 100°C, only few
microcapsules were present and wash durability lasted till 10 wash cycles. So, 80°C
drying temperature for woven fabric treated with all the essential oils was optimized and
90°C drying temperature for knitted fabric treated with geranium and peppermint whereas
for lime and palmarosa treated knitted fabric, at drying temperatures 70° and 80°C were
optimized.
ii. Optimization of drying time: For determining the optimum drying time after treatment
of selected fabrics with the optimized conditions of padding process, the fabrics were
dried for four different time durations i.e. 2, 3, 4 and 5 minutes at optimum drying
temperature. The fabrics were not dried beyond 5 minutes because microcapsules
ruptured at longer durations of drying. The results enumerating the optimization of drying
time for the application of essential oils on both the selected fabrics in terms of
microcapsules present on the fabrics and effect on properties are presented below.

51
Table 15: Optimization of drying temperature of treated fabrics
Essential Drying Fabrics Presence of Parameters
oils temperature microcapsules Rank
Wash durability (wash Bending length Average bending Flexural Crease Average crease
(°C) on fabric cycles) (cm) length (cm) recovery recovery (degree)
rigidity
(mg-cm) (degree)
5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft Warp Weft
70 Woven Too many     × × 4.89 3.51 4.20 33.69 72.98 68.59 70.78 II
Knitted Many    × × × 3.69 2.38 3.03 25.43 86.62 79.31 82.96 II
80 Woven Too many      × 4.87 3.50 4.18 33.54 73.42 68.87 71.14 I
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.82 2.45 3.13 25.86 85.93 78.69 82.31 III
Geranium
90 Woven Many    × × × 4.91 3.54 4.22 33.81 72.64 68.34 70.49 III
Knitted Too many     × × 3.76 2.41 3.08 25.59 86.39 78.97 82.68 I
100 Woven Few   × × × × 4.95 3.53 4.24 33.89 72.32 68.02 70.07 IV
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.85 2.43 3.15 26.18 85.24 78.32 81.78 IV
70 Woven Many     × × 4.81 3.46 4.13 33.02 73.78 69.16 71.05 II
Knitted Too many     × × 3.64 2.47 3.05 25.43 85.38 77.18 82.31 I
80 Woven Too many      × 4.86 3.48 4.17 33.27 72.03 68.41 70.77 I
Knitted Many    × × × 3.61 2.44 3.02 25.17 86.05 78.05 82.54 II
Lime
90 Woven Many    × × × 4.90 3.51 4.20 33.56 72.84 68.31 70.57 III
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.72 2.51 3.11 25.89 85.65 78.53 82.09 III
100 Woven Few   × × × × 4.95 3.53 4.24 33.89 72.62 68.19 70.40 IV
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.76 2.52 3.14 26.21 85.21 78.29 81.75 IV
70 Woven Too many     × × 4.91 3.52 4.21 33.74 73.42 69.12 71.27 II
Knitted Many    × × × 3.74 2.35 3.04 25.51 86.32 79.34 82.83 II
80 Woven Too many      × 4.87 3.53 4.20 33.63 73.14 68.83 70.98 I
Knitted Too many     × × 3.83 2.35 3.09 25.68 85.81 79.21 82.51 I
Palmarosa
90 Woven Many    × × × 4.93 3.58 4.25 33.91 72.83 68.54 70.68 III
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.87 2.39 3.13 25.89 85.65 78.89 82.27 III
100 Woven Few   × × × × 4.95 3.59 4.27 34.21 72.34 68.29 70.31 IV
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.91 2.43 3.17 26.21 85.39 78.53 81.96 IV
70 Woven Too many     × × 4.88 3.51 4.19 33.61 72.92 68.58 70.75 II
Knitted Many    × × × 3.87 2.41 3.14 25.93 86.34 79.25 82.79 II
80 Woven Too many      × 4.87 3.53 4.20 33.73 72.78 68.37 70.57 I
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.77 2.35 3.06 25.54 86.65 78.72 82.18 III
Peppermint
90 Woven Many    × × × 4.92 3.56 4.24 33.98 72.45 68.04 70.24 III
Knitted Too many     × × 3.81 2.40 3.10 25.62 85.79 78.99 82.39 I
100 Woven Few   × × × × 4.93 3.59 4.26 34.32 71.83 67.98 69.90 IV
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.72 2.31 3.01 25.13 85.43 78.59 82.01 IV

52
Rank- I (80°C) Rank- II (70°C) Rank- III (90°C) Rank- IV (100°C)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (80°C) Rank- II (70°C) Rank- III (90°C) Rank- IV (100°C)

Lime oil

Rank- I (80°C) Rank- II (70°C) Rank- III (90°C) Rank- IV (100°C)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (80°C) Rank- II (70°C) Rank- III (90°C) Rank- IV (100°C)

Peppermint oil
Image: 16 Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different drying temperature
Rank- I (90°C) Rank- II (70°C) Rank- III (80°C) Rank- IV (100°C)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (70°C) Rank- II (80°C) Rank- III (90°C) Rank- IV (100°C)

Lime oil

Rank- I (80°C) Rank- II (70°C) Rank- III (90°C) Rank- IV (100°C)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (90°C) Rank- II (70°C) Rank- III (80°C) Rank- IV (100°C)

Peppermint oil
Image: 17 Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different drying temperature
 It is evident from data presented in Table 16 and from visual analysis (Image 18) of
treated fabrics under e-scope that at a drying time of 3 minutes, in case of woven fabric, treated
with each selected oil, many numbers of microcapsules were present and wash durability lasted
till 25 wash cycles with average bending length and flexural rigidity of 4.18 cm and 32.59 mg-
cm in geranium, 4.17 cm and 32.91 mg-cm in lime, 4.16 cm and 32.82 mg-cm in palmarosa and
peppermint treated fabrics. At 3 minutes of drying time, 70.94 to 71.00 degree average crease
recovery was found in the woven fabric treated with all the selected essential oils.
When knitted fabric treated with geranium and lime oil and dried for 4 minutes, many
numbers of microcapsules were observed with wash durability upto 20 wash cycles and
average bending length and flexural rigidity of 2.96 cm and 25.23 mg-cm in geranium and
3.01 cm and 25.32 mg-cm in lime with crease recovery of 82.50 and 82.38 degree in
geranium and lime treated fabrics respectively.
In case of knitted fabric treated with palmarosa oil and dried for 2 minutes, many
numbers of microcapsules (Image 19) and wash durability was observed same as in case of
geranium and lime whereas bending length and flexural rigidity was 3.08 cm and 25.63 mg-
cm with a crease recovery of 82.47 degree. At 3 minutes drying time in case of peppermint
oil, too many microcapsules were present and wash durability lasted till 20 wash cycles.
At a drying time duration of 4 and 5 minutes woven fabric treated with all the
selected oils and knitted fabric treated with palmarosa and peppermint oil showed increased
bending length and flexural rigidity and decreased crease recovery. Hence upon comparison
of the results of different drying durations, 3 minutes was found to be optimum for woven
fabric treated with all the selected essential oils and knitted fabric treated with peppermint oil.
However, drying time of 4 minute was optimized for knitted fabric treated with geranium and
lime oil and 2 minutes was found to be the appropriate drying time for knitted fabric treated
with palmarosa oil.
4.3.1.5 Determination of optimum curing temperature and time: For aroma treatment of
selected fabrics, all the selected essential oils were applied using optimized conditions and
experiments were conducted to determine the optimum temperature and time for curing on the
basis of microcapsules present on the fabric surface, bending length, flexural rigidity and
crease recovery and durability.
i. Optimization of curing temperature: To determine the optimum curing temperature
after treatment of selected fabrics with the optimized conditions of the padding process,
the fabrics were cured at four different curing temperatures i.e. 100°, 110°, 120° and
130°C. The results depicting the presence of microcapsules on the fabrics and effect on
properties are presented in Table 17 and Image 20-21.
It is deduced from the data in Table 17 and visual evaluation that at 110°C too many
microcapsules were found on both woven and knitted fabrics treated with all the four
selected essential oils except knitted fabric treated with palmarosa oil, with a wash
durability of 25 and 20 wash cycles in woven and knitted fabric respectively.

53
Table 16: Optimization of drying time of treated fabrics
Essential oils Drying time Fabrics Presence of Parameters
(min.) microcapsules Wash durability (wash cycles) Bending length (cm) Average bending Flexural Crease Average crease Rank
on fabric length (cm) rigidity recovery recovery
(mg-cm) (degree) (degree)
5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft Warp Weft
Woven Too many     × × 4.83 3.45 4.14 32.34 73.42 69.12 71.27 II
2
Knitted Many   × × × × 3.75 2.49 3.12 25.96 85.62 78.56 82.09 III
Woven Too many      × 4.89 3.48 4.18 32.59 73.14 68.83 70.98 I
3
Knitted Many    × × × 3.63 2.47 3.05 25.54 85.78 78.69 82.23 II
Geranium
Woven Many    × × × 4.91 3.53 4.22 33.10 72.98 68.60 70.79 III
4
Knitted Many     × × 3.52 2.41 2.96 25.23 86.13 78.87 82.50 I
Woven Few   × × × × 4.94 3.54 4.24 33.28 72.84 68.34 70.59 IV
5
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.81 2.52 3.16 26.23 85.24 78.32 81.78 IV
Woven Too many     × × 4.85 3.41 4.13 32.82 73.29 68.32 71.11 II
2
Knitted Many   × × × × 3.76 2.43 3.09 25.74 85.43 78.71 81.96 III
Woven Too many      × 4.91 3.44 4.17 32.91 73.10 68.63 70.94 I
3
Knitted Too many    × × × 3.69 2.40 3.04 25.46 85.75 78.50 82.23 II
Lime
Woven Many    × × × 4.91 3.49 4.20 33.02 72.96 68.79 70.79 III
4
Knitted Many     × × 3.64 2.39 3.01 25.32 85.94 78.21 82.38 I
Woven Few   × × × × 4.94 3.52 4.23 33.21 72.80 68.94 70.56 IV
5
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.85 2.42 3.13 25.98 85.10 78.83 81.65 IV
Woven Too many     × × 4.81 3.44 4.12 32.71 73.30 68.95 71.12 II
2
Knitted Many     × × 3.68 2.49 3.08 25.63 86.11 78.84 82.47 I
Woven Too many      × 4.88 3.45 4.16 32.82 73.10 68.89 70.99 I
3
Knitted Many    × × × 3.74 2.51 3.12 25.84 85.73 78.62 82.17 II
Palmarosa
Woven Many    × × × 4.91 3.48 4.19 33.15 72.95 68.61 70.78 III
4
Knitted Many    × × × 3.82 2.49 3.15 26.11 85.60 78.50 82.05 III
Woven Few   × × × × 4.93 3.56 4.24 33.26 72.80 68.33 70.56 IV
5
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.84 2.53 3.18 26.39 85.14 78.25 81.69 IV
Woven Too many     × × 4.84 3.43 4.13 32.75 73.29 68.98 71.13 II
2
Knitted Many    × × × 3.64 2.39 3.01 25.42 85.70 78.60 82.15 II
Woven Too many      × 4.88 3.45 4.16 32.82 73.14 68.86 71.00 I
3
Knitted Too many     × × 3.75 2.41 3.08 25.61 85.60 78.52 82.06 I
Peppermint
Woven Many    × × × 4.91 3.48 4.19 33.06 72.99 68.60 70.79 III
4
Knitted Many   × × × × 3.77 2.45 3.11 25.79 85.27 78.43 81.85 III
Woven Few   × × × × 4.97 3.52 4.25 33.24 72.91 68.34 70.62 IV
5
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.81 2.49 3.09 26.17 85.18 78.24 81.71 IV

54
Rank- I (3 min.) Rank- II (2 min.) Rank- III (4 min.) Rank- IV (5 min.)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (3 min.) Rank- II (2 min.) Rank- III (4 min.) Rank- IV (5 min.)

Lime oil

Rank- I (3 min.) Rank- II (2 min.) Rank- III (4 min.) Rank- IV (5 min.)

Lime oil

Rank- I (3 min.) Rank- II (2 min.) Rank- III (4 min.) Rank- IV (5 min.)

Peppermint oil
Image: 18 Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different drying time
Rank- I (4 min.) Rank- II (3 min.) Rank- III (2 min.) Rank- IV (5 min.)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (4 min.) Rank- II (3 min.) Rank- III (2 min.) Rank- IV (5 min.)

Lime oil

Rank- I (2 min.) Rank- II (3 min.) Rank- III (4 min.) Rank- IV (5 min.)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (3 min.) Rank- II (2 min.) Rank- III (4 min.) Rank- IV (5 min.)

Peppermint oil
Image: 19 Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different drying time
 Average bending length of 4.19, 4.19, 424 and 4.20 cm, flexural rigidity of 33.21, 33.29,
33.59 and 33.54 mg-cm and crease recovery of 70.62, 70.94, 70.71 and 70.86 degree were
observed in woven fabric treated with geranium, lime, palmarosa and peppermint oils
respectively cured at 110°C.
In case of knitted fabric treated with geranium, lime and peppermint oil cured at 110°C,
palmarosa oil cured at 100°C, average bending length of 3.09, 3.08, 3.04 and 3.00 cm,
flexural rigidity of 27.74, 28.02, 27.81 and 27.84 mg-cm and crease recovery of 82.01,
82.22, 82.36 and 82.27 degree respectively were observed.
It is clear from Table 17 that bending length and flexural rigidity increased with
increase in curing temperature whereas crease recovery decreased. When 110°C curing
temperature compared with other curing temperature variations i.e. 100°, 120°, and 130°C
number of microcapsules were found more with increase in wash durability and better
bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery. Hence, 110°C temperature was
taken as optimum curing temperature for both the fabrics treated with all the four
essential oils except knitted fabric treated with palmarosa oil cured at optimum
temperature of 100°C.
ii. Optimization of curing time: For optimizing curing time, the selected fabrics were
treated with all the four essential oils using optimized conditions of padding bath, and the
treated fabrics were cured at 110°C for four different curing time variations i.e. 30, 60, 90
and 120 seconds.
It can be inferred from the Table 18 (22-23) that when essential oils were applied
with optimized conditions of treatment and cured for 30 seconds, wash durability
decreased from with further increase in curing time and also the number of microcapsules
present on the fabric surface in the selected essential oil treated woven fabric. Bending
length and flexural rigidity was less in woven fabric treated with geranium (4.17 and
32.94), lime (4.16 and 32.10) and palmarosa oil (4.17 and 33.27) at curing duration of 30
seconds and crease recovery angle (71.09, 70.61 and 70.91) increased as compared to 60,
90 and 120 seconds.
In case of woven fabric treated with peppermint oil same pattern was observed at
curing duration of 60 seconds. However curing duration of 60 seconds in case of knitted
fabric treated with geranium, lime and peppermint oil, and curing duration of 30 seconds
in case of palmarosa oil treated fabric were selected because at these durations bending
length and flexural rigidity were found to be less and crease recovery more as compared
to other curing durations.
Thus 30 seconds was selected as optimum curing time for woven fabric treated with
geranium, lime and palmarosa and knitted fabric treated with palmarosa oil. However
knitted fabric treated with geranium and lime and also for peppermint treated woven and
knitted fabrics 60 seconds was found to be the optimum curing time.

55
Table 17: Optimization of curing temperature of treated fabrics
Essential Curing Fabrics Presence of Parameters
oils temperature microcapsules on Wash durability (wash Bending length Average bending Flexural Crease Average crease Rank
(ºC) fabric cycles) (cm) length (cm) rigidity recovery recovery (degree)
(mg-cm) (degree)
5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft Warp Weft
Woven Many    × × × 4.87 3.49 4.18 33.01 72.65 68.21 70.43 II
100
Knitted Many    × × × 3.69 2.43 3.06 27.56 85.32 79.47 81.89 II
Woven Too many      × 4.88 3.51 4.19 33.21 72.79 68.46 70.62 I
110
Knitted Too many     × × 3.71 2.47 3.09 27.74 85.45 78.58 82.01 I
Geranium
Woven Many    × × × 4.92 3.54 4.23 33.52 72.98 68.71 70.84 III
120
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.76 2.51 3.13 27.98 85.63 78.64 82.16 III
Woven Few   × × × × 4.91 3.59 4.25 33.94 73.19 68.85 70.02 IV
130
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.79 2.52 3.15 28.39 85.78 78.82 82.30 IV
Woven Too many    × × × 4.75 3.57 4.16 32.94 73.39 69.02 71.20 II
100
Knitted Many    × × × 3.61 2.45 3.05 27.83 85.90 78.93 82.41 II
Woven Too many      × 4.79 3.59 4.19 33.29 73.06 68.83 70.94 I
110
Knitted Too many     × × 3.68 2.49 3.08 28.02 85.73 78.71 82.22 I
Lime
Woven Many     × × 4.87 3.60 4.23 33.42 72.92 68.71 70.81 III
120
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.72 2.54 3.13 28.25 85.48 78.56 82.02 III
Woven Few   × × × × 4.89 3.60 4.24 33.59 72.85 68.50 70.67 IV
130
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.75 2.58 3.16 28.38 85.28 78.49 81.88 IV
Woven Many    × × × 4.80 3.59 4.19 33.32 73.04 68.79 70.91 II
100
Knitted Too many     × × 3.64 2.36 3.00 27.84 85.82 78.73 82.27 I
Woven Too many      × 4.81 3.67 4.24 33.59 72.84 68.58 70.71 I
110
Knitted Many    × × × 3.57 2.33 2.95 27.76 85.99 78.95 82.47 II
Palmarosa
Woven Many    × × × 4.91 3.62 4.26 33.82 72.75 68.49 70.62 III
120
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.78 2.43 3.10 28.13 85.39 78.54 81.96 III
Woven Few   × × × × 4.94 3.60 4.27 33.93 72.69 68.41 70.55 IV
130
Knitted Few  × × × × × 3.79 2.48 3.13 28.31 85.14 78.42 81.78 IV
Woven Too many    × × × 4.80 3.54 4.17 33.29 73.28 68.91 71.09 II
100
Knitted Many    × × × 3.49 2.43 2.96 27.74 86.05 78.99 82.52 II
Woven Too many      × 4.83 3.58 4.20 33.54 72.99 68.73 70.86 I
110
Knitted Too many     × × 3.57 2.51 3.04 27.81 85.89 78.84 82.36 I
Peppermint
Woven Many    × × × 4.88 3.54 4.21 33.62 72.89 68.41 70.65 III
120
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.63 2.56 3.09 28.05 85.65 78.69 82.17 III
Woven Few   × × × × 4.94 3.59 4.25 33.91 72.65 68.23 70.44 IV
130
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.67 2.59 3.13 28.29 85.43 78.57 82.00 IV

56
Rank- I (110°C) Rank- II (100°C) Rank- III (120°C) Rank- IV (130°C)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (110°C) Rank- II (100°C) Rank- III (120°C) Rank- IV (130°C)

Lime oil

Rank- I (110°C) Rank- II (100°C) Rank- III (120°C) Rank- IV (130°C)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (110°C) Rank- II (100°C) Rank- III (120°C) Rank- IV (130°C)

Peppermint oil
Image: 20 Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different curing temperature
Rank- I (110°C) Rank- II (100°C) Rank- III (120°C) Rank- IV (130°C)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (110°C) Rank- II (100°C) Rank- III (120°C) Rank- IV (130°C)

Lime oil

Rank- I (100°C) Rank- II (110°C) Rank- III (120°C) Rank- IV (130°C)

Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (110°C) Rank- II (100°C) Rank- III (120°C) Rank- IV (130°C)

Peppermint oil
Image: 21 Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different curing temperature
Table 18: Optimization of curing time of treated fabrics
Curing time Fabrics Presence of Parameters Crease Average crease
(sec.) microcapsules Wash durability (wash Bending length (cm) Average Flexural recovery recovery Rank
Essential oils (degree) (degree)
on fabric cycles) bending rigidity
5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft length (cm) (mg-cm) Warp Weft
Woven Too many     × × 4.84 3.51 4.17 32.94 73.28 68.91 71.09 I
30 Knitted Many    × × × 3.60 2.53 3.06 27.56 85.78 78.62 82.30 II
Woven Many    × × × 4.87 3.51 4.19 33.25 73.06 68.83 70.94 II
60 Knitted Too many     × × 3.59 2.47 3.03 27.41 85.91 78.84 82.37 I
Geranium
Woven Many    × × × 4.91 3.54 4.22 33.49 72.86 68.63 70.74 III
90 Knitted Few   × × × × 3.63 2.58 3.10 27.87 85.39 78.54 81.96 III
Woven Few   × × × × 4.92 3.59 4.25 33.86 72.65 68.21 70.43 IV
120 Knitted Few   × × × × 3.67 2.59 3.13 28.32 85.13 78.43 81.78 IV
30 Woven Too many     × × 4.86 3.47 4.16 32.10 72.75 68.41 70.61 I
Knitted Many    × × × 3.68 2.46 3.07 27.88 85.69 78.71 82.20 II
60 Woven Too many    × × × 4.87 3.48 4.17 33.21 72.95 68.78 70.86 II
Knitted Too many     × × 3.67 2.41 3.04 27.69 85.34 78.49 81.91 I
Lime
90 Woven Many    × × × 4.91 3.55 4.23 33.75 73.30 68.96 71.13 III
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.71 2.48 3.09 28.09 85.73 78.86 82.29 III
120 Woven Few   × × × × 4.92 3.60 4.26 33.87 73.45 69.06 71.25 IV
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.72 2.51 3.11 28.31 85.91 78.94 82.42 IV
30 Woven Too many     × × 4.87 3.48 4.17 33.27 72.91 68.73 70.91 I
Knitted Too many     × × 3.58 2.50 3.01 27.43 85.89 78.84 82.47 I
60 Woven Many    × × × 4.88 3.52 4.20 33.42 72.91 68.73 70.71 II
Knitted Many    × × × 3.58 2.50 3.04 27.68 85.89 78.84 82.27 II
Palmarosa
90 Woven Many    × × × 4.91 3.58 4.24 33.73 72.84 68.58 70.62 III
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.62 2.56 3.09 28.05 85.65 78.69 81.96 III
120 Woven Few   × × × × 4.94 3.61 4.27 33.97 72.69 68.41 70.55 IV
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.65 2.58 3.11 28.25 85.32 78.45 81.78 IV
30 Woven Too many    × × × 4.88 3.53 4.20 33.58 72.89 68.60 70.74 II
Knitted Many    × × × 3.66 2.52 3.09 28.12 85.33 78.49 81.91 II
60 Woven Too many     × × 4.88 3.47 4.17 33.24 72.75 68.49 70.62 I
Knitted Too many     × × 3.59 2.49 3.04 27.73 85.09 78.34 81.71 I
Peppermint
90 Woven Many    × × × 4.90 3.58 4.24 33.71 73.02 68.89 70.95 III
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.68 2.54 3.11 28.29 85.65 78.71 82.18 III
120 Woven Few   × × × × 4.93 3.60 4.26 33.84 73.30 68.95 71.12 IV
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.71 2.53 3.12 28.41 85.89 78.91 82.40 IV

57
4.3.2 Direct method: The aroma treatment was directly applied on both the selected fabrics
i.e. woven and knitted cotton using all the four selected essential oils viz. geranium, lime,
palmarosa and peppermint. The experiments were carried out to optimize padding bath
components, MLR, treatment time, drying temperature and time, curing temperature and time
on the basis of bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery. Padding, drying and
curing was done as described in section 3.4.
4.3.2.1 Optimization of padding bath components: Padding bath of direct method was
prepared using essential oil and citric acid.
i. Optimization of ratio of essential oil: The ratio of essential oil optimized for
microencapsulation method i.e. 1 was taken for direct method.
ii. Optimization of concentration of citric acid: To optimize the concentration of citric
acid, four different concentrations of citric acid i.e. 5, 6, 7 and 8 percent (owf) were taken
along with the ratio 1 of each essential oil. The concentration of citric acid at which the
bending length and flexural rigidity was found minimum along with higher crease
recovery angle, selected as optimum concentration of citric acid.
The interferences of the optimization of concentration of citric acid presented in Table
19 reveals that at 6 percent of citric acid, bending length (2.92 to 2.94 and 2.12 to 2.14) and
flexural rigidity (28.39 to 28.51 and 25.28 to 25.54) are displaying decreasing trend whereas
crease recovery (76.96 to 77.45 to 88.99 to 89.27) increased when compared to 5 percent
concentration in case of woven and knitted fabric with all the four selected essential oils. At
7 and 8 percent concentration of citric acid, increasing trend was observed in bending length
and flexural rigidity in case of both the fabrics with all the four selected essential oils and in
crease recovery decreasing pattern was found in both the selected fabrics. Hence 6 percent
concentration of citric acid was optimized for direct application of essential oils on both the
selected fabrics.
After optimization of padding bath components of direct method, experiment were
also conducted for optimization of MLR, treatment time, drying temperature and time,
curing temperature and time for application of essential oils on selected fabrics using
direct application method. The data related to these variables is depicted from Table 1 to
6 (Annexure V).
It was observed from the Table 1 and 2 (Annexure V) that similar results were
obtained for direct method for MLR and treatment time i.e. 1:20 MLR and 30 minutes as
in case of microencapsulation method for both the fabrics treated with all the selected
essential oils.
Results of Table 3 (Annexure V) reveals that 80°C drying temperature was found
optimum for geranium, lime and peppermint treated woven fabric and geranium and
peppermint treated knitted fabric. Whereas, 90°C drying temperature for palmarosa
treated woven fabric and lime and palmarosa treated knitted fabric.

58
Rank- I (30 sec.) Rank- II (60 sec.) Rank- III (90 sec.) Rank- IV (120 sec.)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (30 sec.) Rank- II (60 sec.) Rank- III (90 sec.) Rank- IV (120 sec.)
Lime oil

Rank- I (30 sec.) Rank- II (60 sec.) Rank- III (90 sec.) Rank- IV (120 sec.)
Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (60 sec.) Rank- II (30 sec.) Rank- III (90 sec.) Rank- IV (120 sec.)
Peppermint oil
Image: 22 Presence of microcapsules on woven cotton at different curing time
Rank- I (60 sec.) Rank- II (30 sec.) Rank- III (90 sec.) Rank- IV (120 sec.)
Geranium oil

Rank- I (60 sec.) Rank- II (30 sec.) Rank- III (90 sec.) Rank- IV (120 sec.)
Lime oil

Rank- I (30 sec.) Rank- II (60 sec.) Rank- III (90 sec.) Rank- IV (120 sec.)
Palmarosa oil

Rank- I (60sec.) Rank- II (30 sec.) Rank- III (90 sec.) Rank- IV (120 sec.)
Peppermint oil
Image: 23 Presence of microcapsules on knitted cotton at different curing time
Table 19: Optimization of concentration of citric acid in padding bath
Concentration of Parameters
Essential oils citric acid Fabrics Bending length (cm) Average Flexural Crease recovery (degree) Average crease
(percent) Warp Weft bending rigidity Warp Weft recovery (degree) Rank
length (cm) (mg-cm)
Woven 3.29 2.58 2.93 28.51 78.18 75.93 77.05 II
5
Knitted 2.57 1.71 2.84 25.34 90.40 87.59 88.99 II
Woven 3.27 2.57 2.92 28.32 78.45 76.72 77.38 I
6
Knitted 2.54 1.70 2.12 25.19 90.69 87.86 89.27 I
Geranium
Woven 3.38 2.62 2.98 28.89 77.69 75.72 76.70 III
7
Knitted 2.59 1.74 2.16 25.68 90.11 87.38 88.74 III
Woven 3.46 2.64 3.00 29.05 75.43 75.51 76.47 IV
8
Knitted 2.63 1.78 2.20 25.98 89.72 86.75 88.23 IV
Woven 3.29 2.57 2.93 28.43 78.21 76.09 77.15 II
5
Knitted 2.57 1.75 2.16 25.55 90.10 87.39 88.74 II
Woven 3.31 2.58 2.94 28.51 78.02 75.91 76.96 I
6
Knitted 2.56 1.73 2.14 25.28 90.41 87.57 88.99 I
Lime
Woven 3.36 2.64 3.00 28.87 77.57 75.54 76.55 III
7
Knitted 2.62 1.79 2.20 25.81 89.75 86.73 88.24 III
Woven 3.42 2.66 3.08 29.13 77.39 75.13 76.26 IV
8
Knitted 2.69 1.78 2.23 26.07 89.38 86.47 87.92 IV
Woven 3.30 2.62 2.96 28.49 77.81 75.89 76.85 II
5
Knitted 2.56 1.74 2.15 25.58 90.22 77.40 88.81 II
Woven 3.29 2.58 2.92 28.41 78.49 76.42 77.45 I
6
Knitted 2.53 1.73 2.13 25.42 90.54 77.72 89.13 I
Palmarosa Woven 3.36 2.64 3.00 28.68 77.47 75.53 76.50 III
7
Knitted 2.61 1.78 2.19 25.98 89.76 86.91 88.33 III
Woven 3.41 2.67 3.04 28.93 77.21 75.25 76.23 IV
8
Knitted 2.63 1.77 2.20 26.30 89.60 86.63 88.11 IV
Woven 3.31 2.61 2.96 28.63 77.84 75.86 76.85 II
5
Knitted 2.57 1.73 2.15 25.41 90.23 87.43 88.83 II
Woven 3.28 2.59 2.93 28.39 78.22 76.18 77.20 I
6
Knitted 2.56 1.72 2.14 25.54 90.41 87.59 89.00 I
Peppermint
Woven 3.39 2.65 3.02 28.86 77.32 75.41 76.34 III
7
Knitted 2.61 1.76 2.18 25.78 89.97 86.98 88.47 III
Woven 3.43 2.65 3.04 29.09 77.18 75.93 76.20 IV
8
Knitted 2.66 1.79 2.22 26.09 89.48 86.50 87.99 IV

59
 In case of both the fabrics treated with all the selected essential oils drying duration of
2 minutes was optimized except for palmarosa and peppermint treated knitted fabric which
was found to be 3 minutes (Table 4 of Annexure V).
It is enumerated from (Table 5 of Annexure V) that optimum curing temperature for
both the fabrics treated with all the selected essential oils was 120°C except lime treated
woven fabric which was 110°C.
Curing time duration of 60 seconds was found optimized for both woven and knitted
fabrics treated with all the essential oils whereas for lime and peppermint treated woven fabric
and lime treated knitted fabric which was found to be 30 seconds (Table 6 of Annexure V).
4.3.3 Resin cross-linking method: For cross-linking of selected essential oils for both the
selected cotton fabrics, experiments were conducted to optimize the padding bath components
i.e. material to liquor ratio, treatment time, drying temperature and time, curing temperature
and time on the basis of bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery.
4.3.3.1 Optimization of padding bath components: For preparation of padding bath of
resin cross-linking method, resin cross-linking agent i.e. 1, 2, 3, 4-butanetetracarboxlic acid
(BTCA) was mixed with essential oil and catalyst. Experiments were performed to optimize
the resin cross-linking agent and catalyst.
i. Optimization of ratio of essential oil: The ratio of essential oils optimized for
microencapsulation method i.e. ratio 1 for all the four oils was used for further
optimization of other components of resin cross-linking padding bath.
ii. Optimization of proportion of resin cross-linking agent: To optimize the proportion of
resin cross-linking agent for application of essential oils on selected fabrics, four different
proportions of BTCA i.e. 11, 12, 13 and 14 g/l were taken with ratio 1 of each essential
oil and other variables were kept constant.
It is clear from the data presented in Table 20 that woven fabric treated with geranium, lime
and peppermint oil with proportion of 12 g/l BTCA, bending length (3.46, 3.65 and 3.67) and
flexural rigidity (26.24, 26.60 and 26.49) was lesser as compared to 11, 13 and 14 g/l proportion
of BTCA. Whereas crease recovery showed decreasing trend when BTCA proportion was
increased from 12 to 13 or 14 g/l. In case of woven fabric treated with palmarosa oil with BTCA
proportion of 13 g/l, bending length (3.54) and flexural rigidity (26.53) showed decreasing trend
and crease recovery (92.05) showed increasing trend as compared to 11, 12 and 14 g/l
proportion. Hence, the proportion 12 g/l of BTCA was optimized for woven fabric treated with
geranium, lime and peppermint oils, whereas proportion 13 g/l of BTCA was found to be the
appropriate proportion for woven fabric treated with palmarosa oil. In case of knitted fabric
treated with geranium, lime and palmarosa oil as shown in Table 20, it is clear that with BTCA
proportion of 13 g/l bending length (2.69, 2.68 and 2.73) and flexural rigidity (23.36, 23.40 and
23.49) decreased whereas crease recovery (102.60, 102.70 and 102.39) increased as compared
to proportion 11, 12 and 14 g/l BTCA.

60
Table 20: Optimization of concentration of resin cross-linking agent in padding bath
Essential oils Proportion of resin Fabrics Parameters
cross-linking agent Bending length (cm) Average bending Flexural Crease recovery (degree) Average crease
(g/l) Warp Weft length (cm) rigidity (mg-cm) Warp Weft recovery (degree) Rank
Woven 4.12 3.18 3.65 26.73 92.97 90.62 91.79 II
11
Knitted 3.47 2.51 2.99 23.76 104.79 99.71 102.20 II
Woven 3.99 2.94 3.46 26.24 93.49 90.84 92.16 I
12
Knitted 3.54 2.62 3.08 24.32 104.63 99.46 102.04 III
Geranium
Woven 4.33 3.23 3.78 26.94 92.60 90.54 91.57 III
13
Knitted 3.26 2.13 2.69 23.36 104.96 100.24 102.60 I
Woven 4.53 3.29 3.91 27.47 92.18 90.21 91.19 IV
14
Knitted 3.62 2.97 3.29 24.61 104.64 98.72 101.38 IV
Woven 4.46 3.39 3.92 27.59 92.23 90.18 91.20 II
11
Knitted 3.49 2.31 2.90 23.65 104.81 99.86 102.33 II
Woven 4.20 3.10 3.65 26.60 92.87 90.62 91.74 I
12
Knitted 3.61 2.54 3.07 24.29 104.69 99.56 102.12 III
Lime
Woven 4.61 3.47 4.04 27.76 92.10 89.62 90.86 III
13
Knitted 3.26 2.10 2.68 23.40 105.10 100.31 102.70 I
Woven 4.73 3.48 4.11 28.24 91.72 89.41 90.56 IV
14
Knitted 3.78 2.59 3.18 24.42 104.34 98.98 101.66 IV
Woven 4.20 329 3.74 26.82 92.85 90.58 91.71 II
11
Knitted 3.53 2.47 3.00 23.68 104.70 99.65 102.17 II
Woven 4.28 3.38 3.83 27.13 92.46 90.38 91.42 III
12
Knitted 3.68 2.70 3.19 24.46 104.26 98.96 101.61 III
Palmarosa
Woven 3.97 3.11 3.54 26.53 93.38 90.73 92.05 I
13
Knitted 3.21 2.26 2.73 23.49 104.84 99.94 102.39 I
Woven 4.59 3.46 4.02 27.48 92.06 89.71 90.88 IV
14
Knitted 3.76 2.83 3.29 24.59 103.79 98.70 101.24 IV
Woven 4.39 3.34 3.86 27.32 92.42 90.31 91.36 II
11
Knitted 3.48 2.36 2.92 23.71 104.76 99.82 102.29 II
Woven 4.22 3.12 3.67 26.49 92.75 90.57 91.66 I
12
Knitted 3.35 2.18 2.76 23.46 104.84 99.91 102.37 I
Peppermint
Woven 4.58 3.50 4.04 27.56 92.10 89.62 90.86 III
13
Knitted 3.60 2.48 3.04 23.96 104.60 99.69 102.14 III
Woven 4.70 3.62 4.16 27.88 91.84 89.30 90.57 IV
14
Knitted 3.78 2.62 3.20 24.34 104.38 98.91 101.64 IV

61
In case of knitted fabric treated with peppermint oil with proportion of 12 g/l BTCA bending
length (2.76) and flexural rigidity (23.46) decreased and crease recovery (102.37) increased as
compared to 11, 13 and 14 g/l of BTCA proportion. Hence, for knitted fabric treated with
geranium, lime and palmarosa oils BTCA proportion of 13 g/l was found to be optimum
whereas for peppermint oil treated knitted fabric BTCA proportion of 12 g/l was optimized.
iii. Optimization of proportion of catalyst: To optimize the proportion of catalyst for
application of essential oils on selected fabrics, four different proportions of sodium
hypophosphite i.e. 2, 3, 4 and 5 g/l were taken with 1 ratio of oil, optimized proportion of
BTCA and other variables were kept constant.
The data in table 21 reveals that bending length (3.41, 3.51 and 3.44) and flexural
rigidity (26.43, 26.64 and 26.56) decreased in woven fabric treated with geranium, lime and
peppermint oil of catalyst proportion of 3 g/l whereas, crease recovery (92.26, 92.11 and
92.20) increased as compared to 2, 4, and 5 g/l catalyst proportion. Similar trend was
observed in case of knitted fabric treated with geranium and palmarosa oil. However, catalyst
proportion of 4 g/l in case of woven fabric treated with palmarosa oil and knitted fabric
treated with peppermint oil increase in crease recovery and decrease in bending length and
flexural rigidity was observed but in case of lime oil treated knitted fabric, 2 g/l of catalyst
proportion was selected as optimum proportion. The proportion of catalyst which gave better
crease recovery and less bending length and flexural rigidity was selected as the optimum
proportion of sodium hypophosphite.
Thus 3 g/l of catalyst proportion was selected for geranium, lime and peppermint
treated woven and geranium and palmarosa treated knitted fabric. However, for palmarosa
treated woven and peppermint treated knitted fabric, 4 g/l catalyst proportion was selected as
optimum proportion but in case of lime treated knitted fabric, 2 g/l was selected as optimum
catalyst proportion for further work.
After optimization of padding bath components of resin cross-linking method,
experiment were performed for optimization of MLR, treatment time, drying temperature and
time, curing temperature and time for application of essential oils on selected fabrics using
resin cross-linking method. The data related to these variables is depicted from Table 7 to 12
in Annexure V.
It was observed from the Table 7 and 8 (Annexure V) that MLR and treatment time
were same as in microencapsulation and direct method i.e. 1:20 and 30 minutes respectively
for both the fabrics treated with all the selected essential oils. As clear from the Table 9
(Annexure V) that drying temperature of woven fabric treated with geranium, lime and
peppermint oil and knitted fabric treated with geranium oil, 80°C was found as optimum
drying temperature however temperature 90°C was found optimum for lime and palmarosa
treated knitted fabric and palmarosa treated woven fabric .

62
Table 21: Optimization of concentration of catalyst in padding bath
Essential oils Proportion Fabrics Parameters Rank
of catalyst (g/l) Bending length (cm) Average bending Flexural rigidity Crease recovery (degree) Average crease
Warp Weft length (cm) (mg-cm) Warp Weft recovery (degree)
Woven 4. 21 3.28 3.74 26.93 92.86 90.58 91.72 II
2
Knitted 3.49 2.30 2.89 23.71 104.81 99.86 102.33 II
Woven 3.86 2.96 3.41 26.43 93.55 90.98 92.26 I
3
Knitted 3.26 2.19 2.72 23.38 104.94 100.06 102.5 I
Geranium
Woven 4.39 3.36 3.87 27.49 92.48 90.26 91.37 III
4
Knitted 3.58 2.38 2.98 23.94 104.72 99.69 102.17 III
Woven 4.51 3.49 4.00 27.60 92.10 89.80 90.95 IV
5
Knitted 3.67 2.45 3.06 24.12 104.59 99.61 102.1 IV
Woven 4.28 3.32 3.80 26.82 92.56 90.51 91.53 II
2
Knitted 3.31 2.19 2.75 23.40 104.96 99.90 102.43 I
Woven 4.06 2.96 3.51 26.64 93.45 90.78 92.11 I
3
Knitted 3.46 2.41 2.93 23.69 104.82 99.73 102.27 II
Lime
Woven 4.46 3.47 3.96 27.49 92.12 90.04 91.08 III
4
Knitted 3.58 2.44 3.01 23.78 104.64 99.61 102.12 III
Woven 4.54 3.51 4.02 27.62 92.04 89.71 90.87 IV
5
Knitted 3.67 2.58 3.12 24.22 104.41 98.18 101.79 IV
Woven 4.30 3.31 3.80 26.78 92.54 90.49 91.51 II
2
Knitted 3.39 2.49 2.94 23.78 104.79 99.71 102.25 II
Woven 4.53 3.39 3.96 26.98 92.12 90.04 91.08 III
3
Knitted 3.18 2.44 2.81 23.54 104.90 99.98 102.44 I
Palmarosa
Woven 3.90 2.92 3.41 26.15 93.55 90.96 92.25 I
4
Knitted 3.62 2.57 3.09 24.38 104.51 98.46 101.98 III
Woven 4.61 3.52 4.06 27.41 91.89 89.54 90.71 IV
5
Knitted 3.69 2.59 3.14 24.46 104.38 99.12 101.75 IV
Woven 4.39 3.30 3.84 26.79 92.39 90.41 91.14 II
2
Knitted 3.42 2.36 2.89 23.68 104.84 99.84 102.34 II
Woven 3.92 2.96 3.44 26.56 93.52 90.89 92.20 I
3
Knitted 3.50 2.41 2.95 23.90 104.75 99.68 102.21 III
Peppermint
Woven 4.45 3.36 3.90 27.23 92.28 90.26 91.27 III
4
Knitted 3.28 2.23 2.75 23.45 104.90 100.01 102.45 I
Woven 4.56 3.45 4.00 27.72 92.14 89.85 90.99 IV
5
Knitted 3.54 2.56 3.05 24.25 104.60 99.50 102.05 IV

63
 In case of geranium and lime treated woven fabric, geranium, lime and palmarosa
treated knitted fabric at drying duration of 5 minutes was optimized whereas 4 minutes drying
time was found optimum for palmarosa and peppermint treated woven and peppermint treated
knitted fabric (Table 10 of Annexure V).
It was apparent from Table 11 (Annexure V) that woven fabric treated with geranium,
lime and peppermint oil and knitted fabric treated with geranium and peppermint 140°C was
found to be appropriate for curing. While, 130°C was found to be optimum curing
temperature for palmarosa treated woven and lime and palmarosa treated knitted fabric. Both
the selected fabrics cured for 90 seconds time duration except peppermint treated woven
fabric and geranium treated knitted fabric cured at time duration of 60 seconds.
4.3.4 Combination method: The aroma treatment was given to both the selected fabrics
through combination method using optimized recipe of padding bath of microencapsulation
and resin cross-linking method. The padding, drying and curing was carried out and
optimization was done as described in section 3.4.1.
The experiments were also conducted to optimize MLR, treatment time, drying
temperature and time, curing temperature and time for application of essential oils on selected
fabrics using combination method on the basis of presence of microcapsules, wash durability,
bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery angle. The data in respect to optimization
of treatment variables are presented from Table 13 to 18 (Annexure V).
It is apparent from the Table 13 and 14 (Annexure V) that MLR and treatment time
were same for both the fabrics treated with all the four essential oils as in case of all the other
three treatment methods i.e. 1:20 MLR and 30 minutes treatment time.
Results of Table 15 (Annexure V) reveals that 80°C drying temperature was found
optimum for geranium, lime and peppermint treated woven fabric and lime and peppermint
treated knitted fabric, whereas, 90°C for palmarosa treated woven fabric and geranium and
palmarosa treated knitted fabric.
It is clear from the results that 3 minutes duration of drying was found appropriate for
lime, palmarosa and peppermint treated woven fabrics, 4 minutes for geranium treated woven,
lime, palmarosa and peppermint treated knitted fabrics while 5 minutes was found to be
optimum for geranium treated knitted fabric (Table 16 of Annexure V).
It is enumerated from (Table 17 of Annexure V) that optimum curing temperature for
both the fabrics treated with all the selected essential oils was 120°C except palmarosa treated
woven fabric and geranium and palmarosa treated knitted fabric which was 130°C.
Curing duration of 60 seconds was found optimum for all the woven samples whereas
it was 90 seconds for all the knitted samples treated with all the four essential oils (Table 18
of Annexure V).

64
4.4 Application of Essential Oils on Fabrics using Optimized Variables
The selected four essential oils i.e. geranium, lime, palmarosa and peppermint were
applied on both the selected fabrics (woven and knitted cotton) through four treatment
methods i.e. microencapsulation, direct, resin cross-linking and combination method using
optimized treatment conditions. Each fabric sample was immersed in the padding bath
prepared with optimized treatment conditions keeping optimized MLR for optimized
treatment time. Afterwards samples were dried in hot air oven at optimized temperature for
optimized time and cured at optimized temperature for optimized time for each method
separately. The optimum conditions obtained are given in Table 22.
Table 22: Optimum conditions for application of essential oils on selected fabrics
Treatment Treatment methods Optimum conditions/ Temperature/ Time
variables Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted
Padding Microencapsulation method
bath - Proportion of microcapsule gel (g/l) 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50
components
- Proportion of softener (g/l) 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
- Proportion of binder (g/l) 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15
Direct method
- Citric acid (percent) 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
Resin cross-linking method
- Proportion of resin cross-linking agent
(g/l) 12 13 12 13 13 13 12 12
- Proportion of catalyst (g/l) 3 3 3 2 4 3 3 4
Material to Microencapsulation 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20
liquor ratio Direct 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20
Resin cross-linking 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20
Combination 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20 1:20
Treatment Microencapsulation 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30
time Direct 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30
(minutes)
Resin cross-linking 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30
Combination 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30
Drying Microencapsulation 80 90 70 80 80 80 80 90
temperature Direct 80 80 80 90 90 90 80 80
(˚C)
Resin cross-linking 80 80 80 90 90 90 80 90
Combination 80 90 80 80 90 90 80 80
Drying time Microencapsulation 3 4 3 4 2 3 3 3
(minutes) Direct 2 2 2 2 2 3 2 3
Resin cross-linking 5 5 5 5 4 5 4 4
Combination 4 5 3 4 3 4 3 4
Curing Microencapsulation 110 110 110 110 100 110 110 110
temperature Direct 120 120 110 120 120 120 120 120
(˚C)
Resin cross-linking 140 140 140 130 130 130 140 140
Combination 120 130 120 120 120 130 120 120
Curing time Microencapsulation 30 60 30 60 30 30 60 60
(seconds) Direct 60 60 30 30 60 60 30 60
Resin cross-linking 60 90 60 90 60 90 60 90
Combination 60 90 60 90 60 90 60 90

4.5 Microscopic Analysis of Treated Fabric:

The fabrics treated with all the four essential oils viz. geranium, lime, palmarosa and
peppermint using all the four treatment methods were examined through Scanning Electron
Microscope (SEM). In microencapsulation and combination methods, all the treated samples
were analysed for presence of microcapsules. The fabric samples which were treated directly

65
or by resin cross-linking method with essential oils were also examined under SEM to know
about their surface modification. It was inferred that the fabric surface of all the treated
samples of microencapsulation and combination method were coated with numerous tiny
microcapsules, which were believed to contain the selected essential oils inside the matrix.
The microcapsules were varying in their sizes as observed in microscopic Image 24 and 25. In
case of directly treated fabrics some residue of citric acid were observed whereas, residue of
resin cross-linking agent and catalyst were seen on the fabric surface of both the fabrics
treated with all the selected essential oils by resin cross-linking method (Image 24 and 25).
4.6 Assessment of the Aroma Durability of Treated Fabric:
The aroma durability to washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying of aroma treated
fabrics is of considerable importance to the consumers for longer life of aroma. The aroma
durability in terms of retention and intensity of the treated samples was checked after
washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying.
4.6.1 Retention of aroma: Treated samples were assessed for retention of aroma after
washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying on the basis of olfactory analysis by the
respondents. The data related to assessment of retention of aroma is presented from Table 23
to 26.
Table 23: Retention of aroma in treated fabrics after washing
n-25
Treatment Washing Retention of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics
Methods cycles Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted
0 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
5 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
10 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
Microencapsulation
15 21(84) 22(88) 19(76) 20(80) 22(88) 24(96) 22(88) 20(80)
20 18(72) 20(80) 17(68) 18(72) 20(80) 20(80) 21(84) 18(72)
25 16(64) 0 15(60) 0 15(60) 0 13(52) 0
0 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
Direct
5 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
10 18 (72) 16(64) 15(60) 18(72) 15(60) 17(68) 17(68) 16(64)
0 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
Resin cross-linking 5 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
10 20(80) 21(84) 20(80) 22(88) 21(84) 23(92) 20(80) 22(88)
15 16(64) 14(56) 18(72) 16(64) 18(72) 16(64) 16(64) 17(68)
0 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
5 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
Combination 10 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
15 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
20 24(96) 23(92) 21(84) 20(80) 22(88) 20(80) 19(76) 20(80)
25 17(68) 16(64) 18(72) 17(68) 18(72) 16(64) 15(60) 18(72)
0 – oil treated control sample (unwashed), Figures in parenthesis indicate percentages

It was observed that in case of microencapsulation method, aroma was retained till 10
wash cycles in the essential oil treated both the fabrics as reported by all the respondents. In
microencapsulation method, 88 (palmarosa and peppermint), 84 (geranium) and 76 percent
(lime) respondents agreed that aroma was retained till 15 wash cycles in woven fabric.

66
 Control Woven Sample

Geranium oil Lime oil Palmarosa oil Peppermint oil

Treated by direct method

Treated by microencapsulation method

Treated by resin cross-linking method

Treated by combination method

Image: 24 SEM analysis of aroma treated woven fabrics

 Control Knitted Sample

Geranium oil Lime oil Palmarosa oil Peppermint oil

Treated by direct method

Treated by microencapsulation method

Treated by resin cross-linking method

Treated by combination method

Image: 25 SEM analysis of aroma treated knitted fabrics

 In case of knitted fabric treated with microencapsulation method, aroma was retained
till 15 wash cycles as reported by 96 percent respondents in palmarosa followed by 88 percent
in geranium and 80 percent respondents each in lime and peppermint treated fabrics.
However, aroma was retained even till 25 wash cycles in woven fabric and 20 wash cycles in
knitted fabric treated with all the selected essential oils as reported by more than half of the
respondents.

Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint

120
100
80
Percent Response

60
40
20
0
0 5 10 15 20 25 0 5 10 0 5 10 15 0 5 10 15 20 25

Microencapsulation Direct Resin cross-linking Combination

Wash cycles

Fig. 1: Retention of aroma in essential oil treated woven fabrics after washing

Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint

120
100
Percent Response

80
60
40
20
0
0 5 10 15 20 0 5 10 0 5 10 15 0 5 10 15 20 25

Microencapsulation Direct Resin cross-linking Combination

Wash cycles

Fig. 2: Retention of aroma in essential oil treated knitted fabrics after washing

Hence it can be concluded from Table 23 and Figure 1 and 2 that as the wash cycles
increased, the retention of the aroma was decreased in both the fabrics treated with all the four
essential oils applied by all the treatment methods. Wash durability of treated fabric lasted till
10, 15 and 25 in direct, resin cross- linking and combination method respectively in both the
selected fabric treated with all the four essential oils. However, in case of microencapsulation
method wash durability retained till 25 wash cycles in woven fabric and 20 wash cycles in
knitted fabric treated with all the selected essential oils.

67
 The data presented in Table 24 reveals that cent percent respondents agreed that
aroma was retained in the treated samples till 10 abrasion cycles in each treatment method i.e.
direct, microencapsulated, resin cross-linking and combination with all the selected essential
oils, in both the fabrics. Retention of aroma lasted till 10 abrasion cycles in case of woven
fabric treated by direct method with lime and palmarosa oil as reported by 92 percent and 84
percent respondents respectively. Knitted fabric treated with palmarosa oil 92 percent
respondents who agreed that the retention of aroma lasted till 10 abrasion cycles. No aroma
was reported by the respondents after 10 abrasion cycles in both the fabrics treated with all
the four essential oils.
Table 24: Retention of aroma in treated fabrics after abrasion
n-25
Treatment Abrasion Retention of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics
Methods (no. of Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
cycles)
Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted
0 25(100) 25 (100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25 (100) 25 (100) 25 (100)
10 25(100) 25 (100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25 (100) 25 (100) 25 (100)
Microencapsulation
50 19 (76) 17 (68) 21 (84) 21 (84) 18 (72) 21 (84) 22 (88) 21 (84)
100 10 (40) 14 (56) 18 (72) 16 (64) 15 (60) 16 (64) 17 (68) 20 (80)

Direct 0 25(100) 25 (100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25 (100) 25 (100) 25 (100)

10 25(100) 25 (100) 23 (92) 25(100) 21 (84) 23 (92) 25 (100) 25 (100)
0 25(100) 25 (100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25 (100) 25 (100) 25 (100)
Resin cross-linking 10 25(100) 25 (100) 25(100) 25 100) 23 (92) 21 (84) 25 (100) 25 (100)
50 15 (60) 16 (64) 13 (52) 11 (44) 16 (64) 17 (68) 15 (60) 11 (44)
0 25(100) 25 (100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25 (100) 25 (100) 25 (100)

Combination 10 25(100) 25 (100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25 (100) 25(100) 25 (100)

50 23 (92) 24 (96) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25 (100) 25 (100) 25 (100)
100 15 (60) 19 (76) 21 (84) 19 (76) 21 (84) 22 (88) 18 (72) 19 (76)
0 – oil treated control sample (unabraded), Figures in parenthesis indicate percentages

Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint

120
Percent Response

100
80
60
40
20
0
10 50 100 10 10 50 10 50 100

Microencapsulation Direct Resin cross- Combination

linking
Abrasion cycles

Fig. 3: Retention of aroma in essential oil treated woven fabrics after abrasion

68
 Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
120
Percent Response
100
80
60
40
20
0
10 50 100 10 10 50 10 50 100

Microencapsulation Direct Resin cross- Combination

linking
Abrasion cycles

Fig. 4: Retention of aroma in essential oil treated knitted fabrics after abrasion

In case of microencapsulation method, aroma was retained till 50 abrasion cycles as

reported by 88 percent respondents in peppermint treated woven fabric followed by 84, 76
and 72 percent respondents in lime, geranium and palmarosa treated woven fabric. Aroma
was lasted till 100 abrasion cycles in microencapsulated woven fabric, as reported by 72, 68,
64 and 40 percent respondents for lime, peppermint, palmarosa and geranium oil respectively.
In geranium treated knitted fabric 68 percent respondents and for lime, palmarosa and
peppermint treated knitted fabric 84 percent respondents each who agreed that aroma was
retained after 50 abrasion cycles. Aroma was lasted till 100 abrasion cycles in woven fabrics
treated by microencapsulation method as reported by 72 (lime), 68 (peppermint), 66
(palmarosa) and 40 (geranium) percent respondents. Aroma was retained upto 100 abrasion
cycles in case of microencapsulated knitted fabric, as reported by 56 percent in geranium, 64
percent in lime and palmarosa each and 80 percent respondent reported in peppermint.
In case of resin cross-linking method, 92 percent respondents agreed that aroma was
retained till 10 abrasion cycles in plamarosa treated woven fabric followed by 60 percent
respondents each agreed that aroma was retained till 50 abrasion cycles in geranium and
peppermint treated woven fabric, 64 percent and 52 percent respondents who agreed that
aroma was retained in palmarosa and lime oil treated woven fabrics respectively. Aroma
retention was reported by 84 percent respondents who agreed that it was upto 10 abrasion
cycles in plamarosa treated knitted fabric. In palmarosa treated knitted fabric 68 percent
respondents followed by 64 percent (geranium treated fabric) and 44 percent respondents in
lime and peppermint treated knitted fabric agreed that aroma was retained till 50 abrasion
cycles. It was reported by all the respondents that no aroma was left after 50 abrasion cycles
in both the fabrics treated by all the four essential oils.
In case of combination method cent percent respondents agreed that aroma was lasted
till 50 abrasion cycles in all the selected essential oils treated fabrics except 96 percent

69
respondents reported in case of geranium treated knitted fabric and 92 percent respondents
reported in case of woven fabric. For lime and palmarosa, 84 percent respondents followed by
72 percent respondents for peppermint and 60 percent respondents for geranium treated
woven fabric as reported by respondents that aroma was retained upto 100 abrasion cycles in
combination method. Aroma was lasted till 100 abrasion cycles as reported by 88 percent
respondents for palmarosa followed by 76 percent respondents each agreed for geranium,
lime and peppermint treated knitted fabric.
Hence it was concluded that aroma was decreased as the number of cycles was
increased in both the treated fabrics aroma was retained after 10, 50 and 100 abrasion cycles
in all the selected oils i.e. geranium, lime, palmarosa and peppermint. In direct method, after
10 abrasion cycles no aroma was retained but in combination method it was felt till 100 cycles
of abrasion.
Table 25: Retention of aroma in treated fabrics after ironing
n-25
Retention of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics
Ironing
Treatment (no. of Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Methods times) Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted
0 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
1 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
Microencapsulation
5 22(88) 22(88) 23(92) 23(92) 23(92) 22(88) 23(92) 23(92)
10 17(68) 15(60) 18(72) 15(60) 17(68) 17(68) 18(72) 18(72)
0 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
Direct
1 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
0 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
Resin cross-linking 1 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
5 12(48) 14(56) 12(48) 11(44) 11(44) 10(40) 13(52) 10(40)
0 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
1 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
Combination
5 24(96) 23(92) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 24(96) 24(96) 25(100)
10 19(76) 22(88) 22(88) 20(80) 20(80) 20(80) 23(92) 21(84)
0 – oil treated control sample (without ironing), Figures in parenthesis indicate percentages

Table 25 reflects that when selected fabrics were ironed at temperature of 110°C for
varying number of application of the iron at each one. It was observed that with increase in
number of application cycle of iron the aroma was decreased. It was observed that cent
percent respondents agreed that aroma was retained when ironed once at 110°C temperature
in both the fabrics treated by each method i.e. microencapsulated, direct, resin cross-linking
and combination. After 5 times of iron application on both the selected fabrics treated by
direct method, no aroma was retained as reported by all the respondents.
Data reveals that in microencapsulation method, 92 percent respondents agreed that
aroma was retained till 5 times of ironing in woven fabric treated with lime, palmarosa and

70
peppermint followed by 88 percent respondents in case of geranium treated woven fabric.
Aroma was retained till 10 times of ironing in microencapsulated lime and peppermint treated
woven fabric as reported by 72 percent respondents followed by 68 percent respondents in
case of geranium and palmarosa treated woven fabric. However, after 5 times of ironing 92
percent respondents reported that aroma was retained in knitted fabric treated with lime and
peppermint oil whereas, 88 percent respondents agreed that aroma was lasted till 5 times of
ironing in case of geranium and plamarosa treated knitted fabric. Geranium and lime oil
treated knitted fabric by microencapsulation method, 60 percent respondents who reported
that aroma was lasted till 10 times of ironing however, 68 percent respondents agreed for
palamraosa treated knitted fabric.
In resin cross-linking method, 52, 48 and 44 percent respondents reported that aroma
was lasted till 5 times of ironing in case of woven fabric treated with peppermint, geranium
and lime each, palmarosa respectively. In case of knitted fabric treated with geranium oil (56
percent), lime (44 percent), palmarosa and peppermint (40 percent each), aroma was retained
till 5 times of ironing as reported by respondents. No aroma was felt after 5 times of ironing
in all the selected essential oil treated both the fabrics.
Data reveals that in woven and knitted fabrics 92 to 100 percent respondents agreed
that aroma was retained till 5 times of ironing in combination method treated with all the four
essential oils but decrease gradually as more the fabric was ironed. Maximum number of
respondents reported that aroma was retained till 10 times of ironing in combination method
as compared to all other treatment methods in both the fabrics treated with all the four
essential oils.
Thus it was concluded that in both the fabrics aroma was decreased as ironed for
once, 5 and 10 times at 110°C temperature. In direct and rein cross linking method no aroma
was observed after 1 and 5 times of ironing respectively. Maximum number of respondents
who reported that aroma was retained till 10 times of ironing in combination method in both
fabrics treated with all the four selected essential oils.
It was clear from the data in Table 26 that cent percent respondents agreed that aroma
was retained till 1 hour of sun-drying in woven fabric and 2 hours of sun-drying in knitted
fabric treated with all the essential oils by selected treatment methods i.e. microencapsulation,
direct, resin cross-linking and combination. However in direct method, woven fabric treated
with all the four selected essential oils no aroma was retained after 1 hour of sun-drying as
reported by all the respondents.

71
Table 26: Retention of aroma in treated fabrics after sun-drying
n-25
Treatment Sun-drying Retention of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics
Methods (no of hours) Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted
0 0 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
1 2 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
Microencapsulation
2 3 23(92) 21(84) 22(88) 20(80) 23(92) 21(84) 20(80) 23(92)
3 4 17(68) 16(64) 19(76) 17(68) 17(68) 17(68) 17 (68) 16(64)
0 0 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
Direct
1 2 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
0 0 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
Resin cross-linking 1 2 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
2 3 17(68) 14(56) 16(64) 12(48) 16(64) 17(68) 14(72) 15(60)
0 0 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)

Combination 1 2 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)

2 3 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 24(96) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100) 25(100)
3 4 19(76) 19(76) 22(88) 20(80) 21(84) 18(72) 23 (92) 19(76)
0 – oil treated control sample (without sun-drying), Figures in parenthesis indicate percentages

It was observed that aroma was lasted till 2 hour of sun-drying in case of
microencapsulation method as reported by 92 percent respondents in geranium and palmarosa
followed by 88 percent respondents in lime and 80 percent respondents who agreed in
peppermint oil treated woven fabric. Aroma lasted till 3 hour of sun-drying in
microencapsulated woven fabric as reported by 76 percent respondents in lime followed by 68
percent each in geranium, palmarosa and peppermint treated fabrics. Knitted fabric treated
with all the four selected essential oils by direct method, no aroma was felt after 2 hour of
sun-drying as reported by all the respondents. In case of knitted fabric, aroma was lasted till 3
hour of sun-drying as reported by 92 percent respondents in peppermint followed by 84
percent respondents each in geranium and palmarosa, 80 percent respondents in lime oil
treated microencapsulated fabric. Aroma was retained till 4 hour of sun-drying of knitted
fabric treated with microencapsulation method, 68 percent respondents who agreed each in
case of lime and palmarosa, 64 percent respondents who agreed each in geranium and
peppermint oil treated fabrics.
In resin cross-linking method 68 percent respondents reported each in geranium and
peppermint, 64 percent respondents reported in lime and plamarosa treated woven fabric that
aroma was retained till 2 hour of sun-drying. However, in knitted fabric 68, 60, 56 and 48
percent respondents who agreed that aroma was lasted till 3 hour of sun-drying in palmarosa,
peppermint, geranium and lime oil respectively. No aroma was retained in all the four
selected essential oil treated woven and knitted fabrics after 2 and 3 hour of sun-drying
respectively.
In combination method all the respondents agreed that aroma was retained till 2 hour
of sun-drying in woven and 3 hour of sun-drying in knitted fabric treated with all the essential
oils except 96 percent respondents who agreed that aroma was retained till 3 hour of sun-

72
drying in case lime treated knitted fabric. However, in case of geranium, lime, palmarosa and
peppermint oil treated woven fabric 76, 80, 72 and 76 percent respondents respectively
reported that aroma was lasted till 3 hour of sun-drying. In knitted fabric, 80 percent
respondents in lime followed by 76 percent respondents in geranium and peppermint and 72
percent respondents reported in case of palmarosa oil treated fabric that aroma was retained
till 4 hour of sun-drying.
Thus it was concluded that aroma was decreased as the number of hours was
increased whereas, in both the fabrics treated with all the essential oils i.e. geranium, lime,
palmarosa and peppermint almost same aroma was retained as reported by respondents after
each hour of sun-drying. In direct method after 1 hour in woven and 2 hour of sun-drying in
knitted fabric no aroma was retained but in microencapsulation and combination method it
was found till 3 hour of sun-drying in woven and 4 hour of sun-drying in knitted fabric as
reported by all the respondents.
4.6.2 Intensity of aroma in essential oil treated fabrics: The aroma treated samples, after
washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying were got evaluated against intensity of aroma by
25 respondents on a five point scale as explained in section 3.7.2. The results enumerated on
assessment of intensity of aroma of essential oils treated fabrics exposed to different agencies
are presented from Table 27 to 30.
It is observed from the Table 27 that intensity of aroma of unwashed woven and knitted
samples treated with all the four essential oils by all the four treatment methods had very strong.
In microencapsulation method, both the fabrics treated by geranium, lime, palmarosa and
peppermint oil displayed strong aroma after 5 wash cycles and moderate aroma was felt after 10
and 15 wash cycles except in case of peppermint treated woven fabric in which mild aroma
(2.56) was observed after 15 wash cycles. Mild and faint aroma was observed after 20 and 25
wash cycles in both the treated fabrics with all the four essential oils using microencapsulation
method of treatment.
Both the fabrics when treated with all the four selected essential oils by resin cross
linking method had strong, moderate and mild aroma after 5, 10 and 15 wash cycles
respectively. Cent percent respondents agreed that faint aroma was present after 20 wash cycles
in cross linked essential oil treated samples.
In case of geranium and lime treatment by direct method on woven fabrics, intensity
of aroma after 5 wash cycles was strong (3.4) and in palmarosa and peppermint treated woven
fabrics aroma was moderate i.e. 3.32 and 3.35 respectively whereas in case of knitted fabric
treated with all the four essential oils it was found to be moderate. After 10 wash cycles, both
the fabrics treated with lime, palmarosa and peppermint oil treated had mild aroma (2.6 to
2.08) while geranium treated fabrics had moderate aroma. Faint aroma (1.0) was observed
after 15 wash cycles all the samples treated directly with all the four essential oils.

73
Table 27: Intensity of aroma in treated fabrics after washing
n-25
Washing Intensity of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics (WMS)
Treatment cycles Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Methods
Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted
0 4.84 4.8 4.86 4.76 4.72 4.80 4.8 4.72
5 3.8 3.72 3.80 3.8 3.72 3.84 3.72 3.68
10 3.41 3.2 3.08 3.04 2.96 2.88 3.2 3.16
Microencapsulation 15 2.88 2.81 2.71 2.84 2.72 2.6 2.56 2.88
20 2.36 2.20 2.52 2.59 2.60 2.48 2.12 2.00
25 1.38 1.21 1.40 1.34 1.64 1.56 1.52 1.4
30 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
0 4.32 4.44 4.44 4.32 4.36 4.36 4.36 4.28
5 3.4 3.36 3.4 3.44 3.32 3.24 3.35 3.44
10 2.6 2.6 2.52 2.44 2.4 2.08 2.32 2.28
Direct 15 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
20 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
25 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
30 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
0 4.42 4.6 4.56 4.48 4.44 4.48 4.44 4.52
5 3.48 3.4 3.48 3.52 3.4 3.47 3.4 3.48
10 2.8 2.76 2.68 2.6 2.71 2.6 2.64 2.56
Resin cross-linking 15 2.36 2.52 2.12 2.16 1.8 2.01 2.16 2.2
20 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
25 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
30 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
0 4.89 4.92 4.92 4.84 4.80 4.88 4.84 4.86
5 4.08 4.04 3.88 3.76 3.8 3.84 3.8 3.76
10 3.48 3.44 3.23 2.84 3.28 3.2 2.76 3.16
Combination 15 3.04 2.84 2.89 2.72 2.76 2.76 2.6 2.6
20 2.4 2.32 2.64 2.64 2.68 2.52 2.36 2.4
25 1.72 1.32 1.74 1.62 1.80 1.72 1.80 1.68
30 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
0 – oil treated control sample (unwashed), WMS- Weighted mean score,
4.2 – 5.0 = Very strong, 3.4 - 4.2 = Strong, 2.6 - 3.4 = Moderate, 1.8 - 2.6 = Mild, 1 - 1.8 = Faint

In combination method, intensity of aroma of all the four essential oil treated woven
and knitted fabric after 5 wash cycles was observed to be strong (4.08 to 3.76) followed by all
the samples after 10 and 15 wash cycles which had strong to moderate (3.48 to 2.76) and
moderate aroma (3.04 to 2.6) respectively. After 20 wash cycles, moderate to mild aroma
(2.68 to 2.32) and after 25 wash cycles faint aroma (1.8 to 1.32) was felt by the respondents in
woven and knitted fabric treated with all the selected essential oils. After 30 wash cycles faint
intensity of aroma (1.00) was reported by respondents in all the four essential oils treated
fabrics.
Hence, it can be concluded that intensity of aroma was strong upto 5 wash cycles
when essential oils applied through direct and resin cross linking method whereas strong
aroma was observed upto 10 wash cycles in microencapsulation and combination method
which further decreased gradually for both the fabrics and all the four essential oils. Intensity

74
of aroma was stronger in case of combination method and followed by microencapsulation,
resin cross-linking and direct method.
Table 28: Intensity of aroma in treated fabrics after abrasion
n-25
Treatment Abrasion Intensity of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics (WMS)
Methods (no. of cycles)
Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted
0 4.84 4.8 4.88 4.76 4.72 4.80 4.8 4.72
10 3.62 3.68 3.8 3.68 3.72 3.64 3.76 3.68
Microencapsulation
50 2.63 2.72 2.88 2.88 2.6 2.52 2.72 2.8
100 1.76 1.84 1.72 1.64 1.98 1.84 1.72 1.72
0 4.32 4.44 4.44 4.32 4.36 4.36 4.36 4.28
10 3.24 3.4 3.52 3.52 3.4 3.39 3.4 3.52
Direct
50 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
100 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
0 4.42 4.6 4.56 4.48 4.44 4.48 4.44 4.52
10 3.44 3.4 3.52 3.52 3.48 3.46 3.48 3.56
Resin cross-linking
50 2.4 2.2 1.52 1.44 1.56 1.44 1.6 1.44
100 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
0 4.89 4.92 4.92 4.84 4.8 4.88 4.84 4.86
10 3.84 3.84 3.8 3.76 3.8 3.72 3.76 3.78
Combination
50 2.72 2.88 3.08 2.76 2.68 2.59 2.84 2.84
100 1.92 2.04 1.84 1.76 2.12 2.18 2.16 1.92
0 – oil treated control sample (without abrasion), WMS- Weighted mean score
4.2 – 5.0 = Very strong, 3.4 - 4.2 = Strong, 2.6 - 3.4 = Moderate, 1.8 - 2.6 = Mild, 1 - 1.8 = Faint

It can be deduced from the data in Table 28 that intensity of aroma of

microencapsulated geranium treated woven and knitted samples without abrasion was very
strong (4.84 and 4.8) and after 10 abrasion cycles was strong (3.62 and 3.68), moderate (2.63
and 2.72) after 50 abrasion cycles and it was mild (1.76 and 1.84) after 100 abrasion cycles as
reported by the respondents. For all the four essential oils in case of both the fabrics same
pattern was observed that intensity of aroma was found to be decreased after each abrasion
cycle.
The intensity of aroma of samples of both the fabrics, directly treated with geranium
oil without abrasion had very strong (4.32) as reported by respondents, after 10 cycles was
strong (3.24) followed by samples which abraded for 50 and 100 displayed no aroma. For all
the selected oils i.e. lime, palmarosa, peppermint oil and in both the treated fabrics same trend
was seen when aroma treatment was applied by direct method.
In resin cross-linking of essential oils, intensity of aroma of geranium treated woven
and knitted fabric without abrasion was very strong (4.42 and 4.6) as reported by all
respondents and samples after 10 and 50 abrasion cycles had strong (3.44 and 3.4) and faint
(1.64 and 1.72) intensity of aroma respectively. It was concluded that when essential oils
applied by resin cross-linking method, intensity of aroma was not felt by the respondents in
both fabrics after 50 abrasion cycles.

75
 Data reveals that in combination method, of essential oil treatment in geranium
fabrics i.e. woven and knitted intensity of aroma was observed to be strong 3.84 after 10
abrasion cycles and moderate (2.72 and 2.88) aroma was observed after 50 abrasion cycles in
woven and knitted fabrics respectively. After 100 abrasion cycles it was decreased to mild
intensity (1.92 and 2.04) in woven and knitted fabrics respectively. Same trend was observed
in all the three essential oils i.e. lime, palmarosa and peppermint treated fabrics.
Thus it was concluded that intensity of aroma was strong till 10 abrasion cycles in
both the fabrics when aroma treatment was applied by all the four method which further
decreased gradually and moderate intensity of aroma was observed in microencapsulation and
combination method even after 100 abrasion cycles in both the fabrics treated with all
selected essential oils. It was observed that intensity of aroma was found to be stronger in
combination method of aroma treatment followed by other three methods i.e.
microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and direct in descending order.
Table 29: Intensity of aroma in treated fabrics after ironing
n-25
Treatment Ironing Intensity of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics (WMS)
Methods (no. of times) Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Woven Knitted Woven knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted
0 4.84 4.8 4.88 4.76 4.72 4.80 4.8 4.72
1 3.68 3.56 3.68 3.56 3.6 3.8 3.76 3.68
Microencapsulation
5 2.48 2.4 2.84 2.76 2.56 2.68 2.68 2.64
10 1.68 1.6 2.32 1.84 1.87 1.92 1.76 1.8
0 4.32 4.44 4.44 4.32 4.36 4.36 4.36 4.28
1 2.64 2.76 3.28 3.36 3.32 3.4 3.29 3.08
Direct
5 1.2 1.16 2.36 2.32 1.60 1.44 1.56 1.64
10 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
0 4.42 4.6 4.56 4.48 4.44 4.48 4.44 4.52
1 3.24 3.2 3.4 3.4 3.36 3.44 3.32 3.44
Resin cross-linking
5 1.64 1.56 2.52 2.64 1.68 1.64 1.68 1.60
10 1.32 1.24 1.56 1.45 1.36 1.4 1.32 1.36
0 4.89 4.92 4.92 4.84 4.8 4.88 4.84 4.86
1 3.8 3.88 3.76 3.72 3.68 3.6 3.8 3.72
Combination
5 2.52 2.56 2.92 2.76 2.64 2.68 2.8 2.76
10 1.88 2.00 2.6 2.48 1.99 2.00 2.04 1.92
0 - treated control sample (without ironing), WMS- Weighted mean score
4.2 – 5.0 = Very strong, 3.4 - 4.2 = Strong, 2.6 - 3.4 = Moderate, 1.8 - 2.6 = Mild, 1 - 1.8 = Faint
As Table 29 reflects that when aroma treated samples of both the fabrics were
assessed for intensity of aroma it was found that intensity was decreased as number of
applications of the iron increased. It was observed that both the fabrics directly treated with
geranium, lime palmarosa and peppermint oil had moderate aroma was observed i.e. from
3.36 to 2.64 when ironed once. Woven and knitted fabric treated with all the four essential
oils through resin cross-linking method intensity of aroma was observed as moderate to mild
(2.64 to 1.56) after five times of ironing.

76
 As evaluated by the respondents that both the fabrics i.e. woven and knitted treated
with geranium oil using microencapsulation method had strong (3.68 and 3.56), mild (2.48
and 2.4) and faint (1.68 and 1.6) intensity of aroma was observed respectively after once, five
and ten times of ironing as reported by the respondents. Whereas in case of lime, palmarosa
and peppermint oil treated woven and knitted fabrics it was observed as strong, moderate and
mild respectively after once, 5 and 10 times of ironing.
In case of combination method, geranium treated samples i.e. woven and knitted
fabric, intensity of aroma was found to be strong (3.8 to 3.88) till ironed once followed by
samples ironed 5 times which had mild aroma (2.52 and 2.56) and mild aroma was present
even after 10 times of ironing. Same pattern of aroma durability in terms of intensity for lime,
palmarosa and peppermint oil treated samples was observed for both the fabric.
Thus it was concluded that intensity of aroma in both the fabrics treated with all the
essential oils using all the four treatment methods was strong till ironed once which decreased
after further application of ironed i.e. 5 and 10 times. It was observed that when aroma
treatment was given by combination method durability was more stable as compared to other
methods of treatment i.e. microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and direct method.
Table 30: Intensity of aroma in treated fabrics after sun-drying
n-25
Sun-drying Intensity of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics (WMS)
Treatment (no. of hours) Peppermint
Geranium Lime Palmarosa
Methods
Woven Knitted Woven knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted
0 0 4.84 4.8 4.88 4.76 4.72 4.80 4.8 4.72
1 2 3.6 3.68 3.76 3.79 3.68 3.76 3.76 3.64
Microencapsulation
2 3 2.72 2.76 2.72 2.84 2.6 2.72 2.8 2.81
3 4 1.87 1.88 2.12 2.08 1.76 1.8 1.92 1.76
0 0 4.32 4.44 4.44 4.32 4.36 4.36 4.36 4.28
1 2 3.12 3.08 3.39 2.84 3.4 3.02 3.32 3.4
Direct
2 3 2.28 2.04 1.72 1.56 1.6 1.52 1.64 1.56
3 4 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
0 0 4.42 4.6 4.56 4.48 4.44 4.48 4.44 4.52
1 2 3.32 3.2 3.46 3.18 3.4 3.4 3.4 3.48
Resin cross-linking
2 3 2.44 2.2 1.96 1.72 2.04 1.96 1.72 1.6
3 4 1.32 1.28 1.31 1.41 1.32 1.28 1.32 1.12
0 0 4.89 4.92 4.92 4.84 4.8 4.88 4.84 4.86
1 2 3.72 3.72 3.8 3.89 3.76 3.84 3.72 3.84
Combination
2 3 2.8 2.96 3.00 2.96 2.76 2.8 2.84 2.93
3 4 1.92 1.92 2.48 2.28 1.96 1.8 2.28 2.26
0 – oil treated control sample (without sun- drying), WMS- Weighted mean score
4.2 – 5.0 = Very strong, 3.4 - 4.2 = Strong, 2.6 - 3.4 = Moderate, 1.8 - 2.6 = Mild, 1 - 1.8 = Faint
The data presented in Table 30 reveals that samples treated with all the four essential
oils using treatment methods i.e. microencapsulation, direct, resin cross-linking and
combination had very strong intensity of aroma before exposed to sun-drying. In woven and
knitted fabrics treated directly with geranium, lime, palmarosa and peppermint oil moderate
intensity of aroma was found to be present till 1 and 2 hours of sun-drying respectively as
reported by respondents. Selected essential oil treated woven fabric exposed to 2 and 3 hours
and knitted fabric exposed to 3 and 4 hours of sun-drying whereas, faint aroma was observed

77
in all woven samples sun dried for 2 and 3 hours and all the knitted samples when dried for 3
to 4 hours in the sun.
In essential oil microencapsulated woven and knitted fabrics strong, moderate and
mild intensity of aroma was found to be present when samples were sun dried for (1, 2 and 3)
and (2, 3 and 4) hours in sun. while the resin cross-linked essential oil treated samples had
moderate aroma (3.79-3.6) when woven and knitted fabric sun dried for 1 and 2 hours and
mild intensity of aroma (2.44 to 1.6) was observed in case of 2 and 3 hours of sun-drying of
treated samples respectively as reported by respondents.
It was assessed by the respondents that after exposer of treated samples to sun for 1, 2
and 3 hours, strong, moderate and mild intensity of aroma respectively was found to be
present in woven fabric. In case of all the treated knitted fabrics, same intensity of aroma was
felt to be present after 2, 3 and 4 hours of sun-drying.
It is thus concluded that same level of intensity of aroma was found to be present after
each hour of sun-drying in both the fabrics treated with selected oils i.e. geranium, lime,
palmarosa and peppermint using all the four treatment methods. Aroma durability in terms of
intensity was found to be decreased as the number of hours of sun-drying increased. In
combination method mild aroma was present even after 3 hours and 4 hours of sun-drying of
woven and knitted fabric respectively its intensity was faint in direct method of aroma
treatment even after 2 and 3 hours of sun-drying of woven and knitted fabric samples.
4.6 Testing of Performance and Comfort Properties of Aroma Treated Fabrics
The measurement of performance and comfort properties of treated fabrics was done
to assess the effect of essential oil on these properties. The preliminary properties included
fabric count (woven), thickness, weight and stitch density (knitted). The performance
properties included tearing strength, tensile strength and elongation (woven), bursting
strength (knitted), bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery angle. Comfort
properties included air permeability, texture and colour change. The data related to
preliminary, performance and comfort properties of treated fabrics are presented from Table
31 to 38.
4.6.1 Change in properties of aroma treated woven fabric
It is clearly observed from the data in Table 31 that the count of untreated control
woven fabric was 73.60±.24 ends and 55.60±.92 picks per square inch, was of 131.60±.81
g/m2 weight with 0.29 mm thickness. For geranium treated microencapsulated woven fabric
the count of both the warp and weft yarn showed an increased by 8.69 and 13.66 percent
respectively, weight increased by 17.93 g/m2 and thickness by 24.13 percent.
Data depicts that in case of geranium treatment on woven fabric with direct method,
the fabric count of warp and weft yarn increased by 2.17 and 3.23 percent respectively and
increased in weight was 1.36 percent while the thickness increased by 6.89 percent. It was
found that there was significant difference between fabric count in both direction i.e. warp

78
and weft and also in thickness but there is non-significant difference between weight of the
directly geranium treated woven fabric.
In case of geranium treatment on woven fabric by resin cross-linking method,
increase in fabric count in warp direction was 2.17 percent and weft direction it was 0.71
percent and in weight was increased by 1.36 percent. A significant change at 5 % level of
significance in warp direction but non-significant difference was observed in fabric count in
weft direction. Thickness increased by 10.34 percent as compared to control sample and
significant difference was observed at 5 % level of significance.
In case of combination method of geranium oil treatment, the warp count increased
by 7.88 percent, while the weft count increased by 12.44 percent, there was 9.72 percent
increase in weight and 17.24 percent in thickness which was found to be significantly
different at 5 % level of significance.
Similar trend was observed in preliminary properties in all the woven fabrics treated with
lime, palmarosa and peppermint oil by all the four treatment method. From the Table it is
concluded that there was increase in preliminary properties of woven fabric samples treated
with all the four essential oils by all the treatment methods as compared to control sample.
It is depicted by the data in Table 32 that the tearing strength of untreated control
woven fabric in warp and weft direction was 1671.10±.006 and 1294.59±.007 gm respectively.
Tensile strength and elongation of untreated woven fabric in both directions i.e. warp and weft
was observed to be increased 18.65±.005 and 14.84±.005 kg and 19.72±.007 and 25.45±.008
percent respectively. While assessing the performance properties of geranium treated
microencapsulated woven fabric, a significant decrease in tearing strength (20.51 and 24.95),
tensile strength (17.76 and 16.30) and elongation (28.19 and 30.92) percent in warp and weft
direction respectively was observed.
In case of geranium oil treatment by direct method, tearing strength, tensile strength and
elongation of warp and weft direction decreased by (0.86 and 4.27), (2.89 and 3.30) and (3.04 and
2.43) percent respectively. The tearing strength with direct method was found to be decreased by
5.23 percent in warp and 6.05 in weft direction. In geranium oil treatment on woven fabric by
resin cross-linking method, tensile strength and elongation in warp and weft direction decreased
by (32.27 and 35.84) and (34.73 and 39.72) percent respectively. In case of geranium treatment
through combination method, the tearing strength, tensile strength and elongation in warp
direction of treated samples was observed to be decreased by 15.22, 26.43, and 20.18 percent
while in weft direction it was decreased by 24.19, 24.29 and 22.00 percent respectively.

79
Table 31: Preliminary properties of aroma treated woven fabric
Essential oils Treatment methods Fabric count (ends and picks/inch) Fabric thickness (mm) Fabric weight (g/m2)
Warp mean± S.E. Per cent change Weft mean ± S.E. Per cent change Mean Per cent change Mean ± S.E. Per cent change
Untreated Control 73.60±.24 - 55.60±.92 - .29 - 131.60±.81
Microencapsulation 80.00±.54 +8.69 63.20±.37 +13.66 .36 +24.13 155.20±1.74 +17.93
Direct 75.20±.37 +2.17 57.40±.24 +3.23 .31 +6.89 133.40±.24 +1.36
Geranium Resin cross-linking 75.20±.37 +2.17 56.00±.44 +.71 .32 +10.34 133.40±.51 +1.36
Combination 79.40±.60 +7.88 62.80±.37 +12.94 .34 +17.24 144.40±1.12 +9.72
CD 1.292 1.561 0.0021 3.0315
Microencapsulation 80.80±.37 +9.78 63.80±.20 +14.74 .36 +24.13 155.80±.37 +18.38
Direct 75.60±.51 +2.71 57.60±.40 +3.59 .30 +3.44 135.40±0.01 +2.88
Lime Resin cross-linking 74.80±.37 +1.63 55.80±.20 +.35 .32 +10.34 137.00±.63 +4.10
Combination 81.00±.44 +10.05 58.00±.44 +4.31 .34 +17.24 150.20±.73 +14.13
CD 1.180 1.504 .0025 1.818
Microencapsulation 81.20±.37 +10.32 64.80±.51 +16.54 .36 +24.13 153.80±.58 +16.86
Direct 74.20±.37 +0.81 57.20±.58 +2.87 .31 +6.89 135.60±.24 +1.21
Palmarosa Resin cross-linking 76.40±.24 +3.80 56.80±.37 +2.15 .33 +13.79 135.00±.32 +2.58
Combination 79.60±.60 +8.15 58.20±.37 +4.67 .34 +17.24 146.60±.40 +11.39
CD 1.150 1.679 .0016 1.50
Microencapsulation 79.80±.37 +8.42 63.00±.44 +13.30 .37 +27.58 158.00±.32 +20.06
Direct 74.20±.37 +0.81 56.20±.37 +1.08 .31 +6.89 135.60±.24 +3.03
Peppermint Resin cross-linking 76.20±.20 +3.53 56.40±.40 +1.43 .33 +13.79 138.40±.60 +5.16
Combination 79.80±.58 +8.42 61.00±.31 +9.71 .34 +17.24 150.40±.40 +14.28
CD 1.119 1.594 0.015 1.527
At 5.0% level of significance, + increase, - decrease, SE. = Standard error

80
Table 32: Performance properties of aroma treated woven fabric
Essential oils Treatment methods Tearing strength (gm) Tensile strength (Kg) Elongation (%)
Warp Per cent Weft Per cent Warp Per cent Weft Per cent Warp Per cent Weft Per cent
mean ± S.E. change mean ± S.E. change mean ± S.E. change mean ±S.E. change mean ± S.E. change mean ± S.E. change
Untreated Control 1671.10±.006 - 1294.59±.007 - 18.65±.005 - 14.84±.005 - 19.72±.007 - 25.45±.008 -
Microencapsulation 1328.29±.005 -20.51 971.58±.09 -24.95 15.33±.006 -17.76 12.42±.005 -16.30 14.16±.008 -28.19 17.58±.006 -30.92
Direct 1656.70±.15 -.86 1239.21±.013 -4.27 18.11±.004 -2.89 14.35±.006 -3.30 19.12±.005 -3.04 24.83±.004 -2.43
Geranium Resin cross-linking 1583.60±.14 -5.23 1216.14±.009 -6.05 12.63±.002 -32.27 9.52±.004 -35.84 12.87±.006 -34.73 15.34±.007 -39.72
Combination 1416.60±.11 -15.22 981.31±.004 -24.19 13.72±.004 -26.43 11.25±.010 -24.29 15.74±.009 -20.18 19.85±.004 -22.00
CD .316 .130 .013 .019 .020 .017
Microencapsulation 1317.62±.13 -21.15 985.64±.11 -23.86 15.29±.007 -18.01 12.23±.004 -17.58 14.28±.009 -27.41 17.50±.015 -31.23
Direct 1642.24±.007 -1.72 1248.30±.007 -3.57 17.96±.006 -3.69 14.12±.004 -4.85 19.32±.002 -2.02 24.46±.004 -4.12
Lime Resin cross-linking 1596.44±.16 -4.46 1226.22±.09 -5.28 12.68±.007 -32.01 9.43±.005 -36.45 12.65±.005 -35.85 15.38±.200 -39.56
Combination 1422.58±.14 -14.86 992.72±.15 -23.21 13.64±.009 -26.64 11.14±.004 -24.93 15.80±.004 -19.87 19.81±.007 -22.16
CD .337 .285 .020 .014 .017 .026
Microencapsulation 1333.19±.005 20.22 985.14±.006 -23.90 15.47±.008 -17.05 12.42±.009 -16.30 15.83±.003 -19.72 19.73±.012 -22.47
Direct 1652.11±.004 -1.13 1235.85±.005 -4.53 17.85±.005 -4.28 14.25±.005 -3.97 19.56±.004 -0.811 24.52±.005 -3.65
Palmarosa Resin cross-linking 1591.32±.10 -4.77 1221.58±.05 -5.63 12.83±.005 -31.20 9.32±.007 -37.19 12.82±.007 -34.98 15.25±.010 -40.07
Combination 1439.76±.06 -13.84 989.29±.15 -23.58 13.74±.004 -26.32 11.26±.007 -24.12 14.19±.011 -28.04 17.61±.011 -30.80
CD .162 .216 .016 .020 .020 .030
Microencapsulation 1320.22±.008 -20.99 996.27±.006 -23.04 15.13±.008 -18.87 12.63±.007 -14.89 15.64±.014 -20.68 19.78±.013 -22.27
Direct 1645.54±.005 -1.52 1249.36±.007 -3.62 18.24±.005 -2.19 14.41±.007 -2.18 19.37±.006 -1.76 24.46±.006 -3.88
Peppermint Resin cross-linking 1599.17±.004 -4.30 1229.64±.11 -5.01 12.53±.10 -32.81 9.54±.005 -35.71 12.74±.014 -35.39 15.30±.015 -39.88
Combination 1443.60±.12 -13.61 996.27±.13 -23.04 13.83±.007 -25.84 11.47±.005 -22.70 14.40±.007 -26.97 17.65±.004 -30.64
CD .167 .233 .021 .017 .030 .029
At 5.0% level of significance, + increase, - decrease, SE. = Standard error

81
Table 33: Performance and comfort properties of aroma treated woven fabric
Bending length (mm) Crease recovery (degree) Flexural rigidity (mg-cm) Air permeability (m3/m2/min)
Treatment methods Warp Per cent Weft Per cent Warp Per cent Weft Per cent Warp Per cent Weft Per cent
Essential oils
mean ± S.E. change mean ± S.E. change mean ± S.E. change mean ± S.E. change mean ± S.E. change mean ± S.E. change
Untreated Control 3.26±.007 - 2.56±.007 - 82.57±.005 - 78.15±.013 - 23.95±.002 216.17±.27 -
Microencapsulation 4.83±.004 +48.15 3.53±.004 +37.89 73.16±.012 -11.39 68.87±.009 -11.87 33.18±.02 +38.53 172.15±.01 -20.36
Direct 3.38±.009 +3.68 2.65±.006 +3.51 77.26±.003 -6.43 75.47±.003 -3.42 24.19±.01 +1.00 202.08±.01 -6.51
Geranium Resin cross-linking 4.59±.002 +40.79 3.35±.004 +30.85 92.25±.004 +11.72 89.87±.004 +14.99 27.59±.01 +15.19 187.86±.01 -13.09
Combination 4.65±.004 +42.63 3.16±.004 +23.52 86.38±.004 +4.61 82.91±.002 +6.09 27.64±.01 +15.40 180.37±.001 -16.56
CD .016 .014 .018 .022 .044 .352
Microencapsulation 4.87±.007 +49.38 3.48±.004 +35.93 73.27±.005 -11.26 68.93±.005 -11.79 32.86±.01 +37.20 170.31±.001 -21.21
Direct 3.33±.004 +2.14 2.65±.008 +3.51 77.48±.004 -6.16 75.29±.007 -3.65 24.29±.01 +1.41 206.14±.01 -4.63
Lime Resin cross-linking 4.63±.006 +42.02 3.37±.004 +31.64 91.82±.004 +11.20 89.64±.006 +14.70 27.45±.01 +14.16 191.36±.001 -11.47
Combination 4.67±.005 +43.25 3.22±.006 +25.78 86.29±.005 +4.50 82.80±.008 +5.95 27.68±.01 +15.57 183.48±.01 -15.12
CD .015 .017 .013 .025 .035 .352
Microencapsulation 4.87±.003 +49.38 3.56±.005 +39.06 72.91±.004 -11.69 68.73±.004 -12.05 33.46±.01 +39.70 174.11±.01 -19.45
Direct 3.35±.004 +2.76 2.62±.004 +2.34 77.46±.004 -6.18 75.52±.004 -3.36 24.00±.02 +.20 203.15±.01 -6.02
Palmarosa Resin cross-linking 4.56±.002 +39.87 3.40±.006 +32.81 92.37±.004 +11.83 89.93±.002 +15.07 27.39±.01 +14.36 186.47±.01 -13.73
Combination 4.64±.003 +42.33 3.23±.010 +26.17 86.30±.010 +4.51 82.88±.006 +6.05 27.52±.001 +14.90 186.96±.01 -13.51
CD .012 .019 .017 .020 .365 .352
Microencapsulation 4.82±.005 +47.85 3.54±.005 +38.28 73.28±.003 -11.61 68.92±.005 -11.81 32.96±.01 +37.62 168.17±.01 -22.20
Direct 3.38±.004 +3.68 2.69±.009 +5.07 77.18±.004 -6.52 75.39±.005 -3.53 24.35±.01 +1.67 199.87±.01 -7.54
Peppermint Resin cross-linking 4.54±.005 +39.26 3.34±.004 +34.51 92.38±.005 +11.88 90.12±.007 +15.31 27.47±.01 +14.69 194.26±.01 -10.13
Combination 4.68±.003 +43.55 3.27±.005 +27.73 85.98±.004 +4.12 82.87±.007 +6.03 27.63±.001 +15.36 178.35±.01 -17.49
CD .014 .018 .012 .023 .028 .352
At 5.0% level of significance, +increase, - decrease, SE. = Standard error

82
 It was observed that in all the essential oils treated woven fabrics reflected almost
same pattern in all the above mentioned properties.
It is evident from the Table that in woven fabric treated with selected essential oils
i.e. geranium, lime, palmarosa and peppermint by all the treatment methods, a significant
difference was observed in tensile strength, tearing strength and elongation in warp and weft
direction when compared with control sample.
As evident from the Table that highest increase in bending length in both the directions
i.e. warp (48.15 mm) and weft (37.89 mm) percent and flexural rigidity (38.53 mg-cm) percent
in microencapsulation method was observed and minimum increase in bending length in both
warp and weft directions (3.68 and 3.51 %) and flexural rigidity (1.00 %) was observed in direct
method in geranium treated woven fabric.
Resin cross-linking and combination treatment of geranium oil on woven fabric
showed increased in bending length in warp (40.79 and 42.63 mm) and weft direction (30.85
and 23.52 mm) percent. It was noticed that flexural rigidity was also found to be increased by
15.19 percent in resin cross-linking and by 15.40 percent in combination method.
It is clear from the Table that crease recovery of the untreated sample in both the
directions i.e. warp and weft was 82.57±.005 and 78.15±.013 degree. The crease recovery of
geranium oil treated woven fabric decreased in warp and weft direction by (11.39 and 11.87)
percent in microencapsulation and (6.43 and 3.42) percent direct method respectively.
However, in case of resin cross linking and combination method crease recovery increased
significantly in warp by 11.72 and 4.61 and weft way by 14.99 and 6.09 percent respectively
of geranium treated woven fabric.
It is deduced from the Table 33 that air permeability of control woven fabric was
216.17±.27 m3/m2/min. In geranium treated woven fabric significant decrease in air permeability
was observed in all the treatment methods i.e. microencapsulation (20.36%), direct (6.51%), resin
cross-linking (13.09%) and combination (16.56%). The highest decrease in air permeability was
observed in microencapsulation method followed by combination, resin cross-linking and direct
method.
Thus it was concluded that the highest crease recovery and air permeability was
observed in control sample and after aroma treatment of geranium oil by different methods it
subsequently decreased. Bending length and flexural rigidity increased after geranium aroma
treatment as compared to control sample.
Similar trend was observed in the bending length, flexural rigidity, crease recovery
and air permeability properties of lime, palmarosa and peppermint aroma treatment given by
different methods. However, when different methods compared amongst themselves, a
significant difference in bending length and flexural rigidity was observed with all the four
essential oils.

83
4.6.2 Change in properties of aroma treated knitted fabrics
It is revealed from the Table 34 that the stitch density of untreated control knitted
fabric was 34.00±.44 courses and 36.20±.49 wales per square inch, thickness was of 0.52 mm
and weight was 220.80±.58 g/m2.
Data depicts that when geranium oil treatment was given by direct method on knitted
fabric the stitch density in wales direction was observed to be increased by 4.70 percent,
whereas in course direction increased by 5.52 percent from control knitted fabric. The weight of
knitted fabric increased by 2.26 percent while the thickness was same i.e. 0.52 mm. It was found
that there was non-significant difference between stitch density in wales direction and in
thickness at 5% level of significance. However, significant difference between stitch density in
course direction and in weight of geranium oil directly treated knitted fabric was observed.
Similar pattern was observed in preliminary properties of lime, palmarosa and
peppermint oil treated knitted fabrics by direct method. In case of resin cross-linking geranium
oil treated knitted fabric, stitch density increased in both the warp and weft direction by 10.00
and 8.27 percent and weight by 3.80 and and there was 3.84 percent increase in thickness.
In case of aroma treatment given to knitted fabric through microencapsulation and
combination method, stitch density was observed to be decreased by 12.35 and 12.94 percent
in course direction and 6.07 and 7.18 percent in wales direction respectively. There was
increase of 16.84 and 9.61 percent in weight and thickness respectively, in microencapsulated
geranium treated fabrics. In combination method also weight and thickness was found to be
significantly increased i.e. 7.97 and 3.84 percent respectively. It was noticed that there was
decrease in stitch density and increase in fabric weight and thickness of all the samples when
all the four essential oils applied by microencapsulation and combination method. Same
phenomenon was observed in lime, palmarosa and peppermint oil treated knitted fabric.
Thus it was concluded that direct and cross-linked aroma treated fabrics had more
stitch density as compared to control fabric but it increased in case of microencapsulated and
combination aroma treated method. Weight and thickness was found to be increased after
aroma treatment given to the knitted fabric with all the essential oils.

84
Table 34: Preliminary properties of aroma treated knitted fabric

Essential oils Treatment methods Stitch density (Wales and courses/inch) Fabric thickness (mm) Fabric weight (g/m2)
Course Per cent Wales Per cent Mean Per cent Mean ± S.E. Per cent
mean ±S.E. Change mean ± S.E. change Change change

Untreated Control 34.00±.44 - 36.20±.49 - .52 - 220.80±.58

Microencapsulation 29.80±.86 -12.35 34.00±.70 -6.07 .57 +9.61 258.00±.32 +16.84
Direct 35.60±.51 +4.70 38.20±.86 +5.52 .52 - 225.80±1.93 +2.26
Geranium Resin cross-linking 37.40±.51 +10.00 39.20±1.15 +8.27 .54 +3.84 229.20±1.83 +3.80
Combination 29.60±.81 -12.94 33.60±.87 -7.18 .54 +3.84 238.40±1.63 +7.97
CD 1.920 2.496 0.002 4.209
Microencapsulation 29.20±1.11 -14.11 30.40±.51 -16.02 .58 +11.53 263.60±.40 +19.38
Direct 34.40±.51 +1.17 38.60±1.96 +5.69 .52 - 225.80±1.12 +2.26
Lime Resin cross-linking 36.00±.83 +5.88 39.40±.74 +8.83 .54 +3.84 229.40±1.29 +3.84
Combination 28.20±.66 -17.05 33.00±.63 -8.83 .55 +5.76 241.80±2.01 +5.76
CD 2.223 2.215 .0018 3.603
Microencapsulation 29.60±1.28 -12.94 32.60±.51 -9.94 .57 +9.61 260.40±.51 +17.93
Direct 34.60±.51 +1.17 37.00±1.09 +2.20 .53 +1.92 226.20±.97 +2.44
Palmarosa Resin cross-linking 37.60±1.07 +10.58 39.80±.73 +8.94 .53 +1.92 228.40±1.03 +3.44
Combination 30.20±.73 -5.29 33.20±.66 -8.28 .55 +5.76 240.20±.80 +8.78
CD 2.710 2.159 .0019 2.374
Microencapsulation 29.60±.98 -12.94 32.00±.44 -11.60 .58 +11.53 258.40±.40 +16.96
Direct 34.40±.51 +1.17 38.60±1.16 +5.69 .53 +1.92 225.20±1.80 +2.26
Peppermint Resin cross-linking 36.40±.92 +7.05 39.20±.73 +8.27 .54 +3.84 230.80±1.20 +4.52
Combination 30.40±1.50 -10.58 33.00±1.03 -8.83 .55 +5.76 238.80±.40 +7.97
CD 3.549 2.432 0.022 3.042
At 5.0% level of significance, + increase - decrease, SE. = Standard error

85
 The table 35 depicts the effect of aroma treatment on the performance properties of
knitted fabric. As evident from the Table that tearing strength and crease recovery of control
knitted fabric in warp and weft direction was 2830.00±.31 and 2185.80±.37 gm, 92.41±.01
and 87.16±.08 degree respectively and bursting strength was 8.12±.01 kg/cm2. A significant
difference observed in knitted fabric treated with all the four essential oils at 5% level of
significance.
Tearing and bursting strength was observed to be decreased in both directions of
knitted fabric treated with geranium oil by all the four treatment methods. Crease recovery
decreased in case of direct and microencapsulation methods but increased in resin cross-
linking and combination methods of geranium aroma treatment to knitted fabric. Non-
significant difference in tearing strength of geranium treated knitted samples in both
directions i.e. warp and weft (1.14 and 3.26%) and bursting strength (0.24%) was observed in
direct method of treatment. However, crease recovery was found to be significantly decreased
in warp and weft direction i.e. 2.99 and 3.90 percent in direct aroma treatment method.
In case of geranium oil treated microencapsulated samples, the tearing strength
decreased by 27.54 percent in warp and 32.05 percent in weft direction and this method
showed the highest decrease in tearing strength as compared to other three treatment methods
when aroma treated samples were compared with control untreated sample. Bursting strength
of geranium treated knitted fabric decreased significantly in cross linking method of aroma
treatment.
Table 35 also narrates that the crease recovery of geranium treated knitted fabric
decreased by 7.30 percent in warp and 9.68 percent in weft direction. A decrease of 3.32
percent in bursting strength was also noticed in microencapsulated geranium treated knitted
fabric. In resin cross-linking and combination methods of aroma treatment, the tearing
strength in both directions was observed to be significantly decreased i.e. 15.27 and 19.75
percent in warp and weft direction respectively while the bursting strength was decreased by
26.23 percent.
However in resin cross-linking method the crease of recovery of geranium oil treated
knitted fabric increased by 13.25 percent in warp and 14.20 percent in weft direction and in
combination method it was increased by 5.09 and 6.94 percent in warp and weft direction than
control sample. Similar trend was observed in the performance properties of lime, palmarosa
and peppermint oil treated knitted samples of all the four treatment methods.
Thus it was concluded that there was decrease in tearing strength and bursting
strength of knitted fabrics when aroma was applied by all the four treatment with all the four
essential oils. However, the crease recovery noticed to be increased in resin cross-linking and
combination methods but decreased in microencapsulation and direct methods of aroma
treatment.

86
Table 35: Performance properties of aroma treated knitted fabric

Tearing strength (gm) Bursting strength (kg/cm2) Crease recovery (degree)

Treatment methods Warp Per cent Weft Per cent Mean Per cent Warp Per cent Weft Per cent
Essential oils
mean± S.E. change mean ± S.E. change ± S.E. change mean ± S.E. change mean± S.E. change
Untreated Control 2830.00±.31 - 2185.80±.37 - 8.12±.01 - 92.41±.010 - 87.16±.008 -
Microencapsulation 2050.40±.81 -27.54 1485.20±.49 -32.05 7.85±.001 -3.32 85.66±.012 -7.30 78.72±.011 -9.68
Direct 2797.73±.73 -1.14 2114.40±.51 -3.26 8.10±.001 -.24 89.64±.004 -2.99 86.82±.006 -3.90
Geranium Resin cross-linking 2397.80±.37 -15.27 1754.00±.63 -19.75 5.99±.01 -26.23 104.65±.006 +13.25 99.54±.007 +14.20
Combination 2593.00±.63 -8.37 2041.40±.51 -6.60 7.45±.01 -8.25 97.12±.009 +5.09 93.21±.004 +6.94
CD 1.789 1.504 .019 .025 .022
Microencapsulation 2030.80±.86 -28.24 1454.00±.54 -33.47 7.75±.001 -4.55 85.72±.009 -7.23 78.87±.005 -9.51
Direct 2786.80±.58 -1.52 2106.80±.73 -3.61 7.98±.001 -1.72 90.44±.008 -2.13 87.58±.009 -4.81
Lime Resin cross-linking 2393.60±.67 -15.42 1715.60±1.16 -21.51 5.83±.01 -28.20 104.28±.005 +12.84 99.28±.006 +13.90
Combination 2579.60±1.28 -8.84 2013.00±1.14 -7.90 7.41±.01 -8.74 96.61±.004 +4.54 92.95±.007 +6.64
CD 2.396 2.517 .017 .022 .021
Microencapsulation 2045.40±.74 -27.72 1465.20±.97 -32.96 7.80±.001 -3.94 85.73±.005 -7.23 78.82±.005 -9.56
Direct 2791.20±.49 -1.37 2110.60±.67 -3.44 8.07±.01 -.61 90.26±.007 -2.32 87.42±.010 -.29
Palmarosa Resin cross-linking 2390.40±.67 -15.53 1753.00±.63 -19.80 5.96±.01 -26.60 104.76±.006 +13.36 99.59±.005 +14.26
Combination 2587.60±.51 -8.56 2045.40±.98 -6.42 7.48±.01 -7.88 97.03±.007 +4.99 93.12±.004 +6.83
CD 1.679 2.246 .020 .021 .020
Microencapsulation 2028.80±1.31 -28.31 1471.80±.97 -32.66 7.77±.01 -4.31 85.63±.006 -7.37 78.64±.017 -9.77
Direct 2784.00±.63 -1.62 2102.00±.77 -3.83 8.01±.001 -1.35 89.91±.012 -2.70 87.54±.011 -4.35
Peppermint Resin cross-linking 2384.80±.66 -15.73 1712.60±.60 -21.64 5.88±.001 27.58 104.48±.004 +13.07 99.42±.005 +14.06
Combination 2581.00±1.14 -8.79 2025.00±.63 -7.35 7.38±.001 -9.11 96.91±.006 +4.86 93.38±...010 +7.13
CD 2.632 2.060 .017 .024 .032
At 5.0% level of significance, + increase, - decrease, SE. = Standard error

87
 Data in the Table 36 is given regarding the performance and comfort properties i.e.
bending length, flexural rigidity and air permeability. The results revealed that the bending
length of untreated knitted fabric in warp and weft direction was 2.55±.005 and 1.70±.004 cm
respectively. Flexural rigidity of control knitted fabric was 20.26±.01 mg-cm and the air
permeability observed to be 112.56±.011m3/m2/min. it was reflected that when geranium
applied to knitted fabric by direct method, bending length of warp and weft increased by 2.74
and 3.52 percent respectively and flexural rigidity noticed to be increased by 12.63 percent
while air permeability decreased by 3.36 percent. In microencapsulated knitted fabric,
bending length in both warp and weft directions and flexural rigidity was increased
significantly i.e. (45.88 and 50.58) and (38.69) percent respectively. There was also a
significant decrease in air permeability i.e. 31.92 percent in geranium treated knitted samples.
While assessing the performance properties of geranium cross-linked knitted fabric, a
significant increased in bending length in warp (37.25 and 42.35%) and in weft direction
(31.17 and 34.11%) was observed. In case of geranium treated knitted fabric air permeability
was decreased by 7.9 percent in resin cross-linked and 20.62 percent in the samples treated by
combination method.
Similar pattern was observed in performance and comfort properties of lime,
palmarosa and peppermint oil treated knitted fabric by all the treatment method. Thus it was
concluded that after aroma treatment with all the four essential oils, the bending length and
flexural rigidity were found to be increased and air permeability of treated samples was
decreased.
The effect of four essential oil treatment on preliminary, performance and comfort
properties of both the fabrics was studied and data related to these properties are present from
Table 16 to 24 (Annexure V). It was noticed that there was non-significant difference at 5%
level of significance among all the four essential oils on all the preliminary, performance and
comfort properties of treated samples of both the fabrics through all the four treatment
methods.
The effect of fabric type i.e. woven and knitted fabrics treated with all the four
essential oils by all the four treatment methods on preliminary, performance and comfort
properties was compared (Table 25 and 26 of Annexure V). It was revealed that there was
significant difference between properties of woven and knitted fabric treated with all the four
essential oils by all the four treatment methods at 1% level of significance.

88
Table 36: Performance and comfort properties of aroma treated knitted fabric
Essential oils Treatment methods Bending length (mm) Flexural rigidity (mg-cm) Air permeability (m3/m2/min)

Warp Per cent Weft Per cent Mean ± S.E. Per cent Mean ± S.E. Per cent
mean± S.E. change mean ± S.E. change change change

Untreated Control 2.55±.005 - 1.70±.004 - 20.26±.01 - 112.56±.011 -

Geranium Microencapsulation 3.72±.004 +45.88 2.56±.004 +50.58 28.10±.01 +38.69 76.62±.01 -31.92
Direct 2.62±.006 +2.74 1.76±.007 +3.52 22.82±.01 +12.63 108.77±.01 -3.36
Resin cross-linking 3.50±.004 +37.25 2.23±.004 +31.17 24.17±.01 +19.29 103.56±.01 -7.9
Combination 3.63±.005 +42.35 2.28±.002 +34.11 24.76±.01 +22.21 89.34±.01 -20.62
CD .014 .013 .028 .023
Lime Microencapsulation 3.76±.009 +47.45 2.52±.005 +48.23 27.89±.02 +37.66 73.37±.01 -34.81
Direct 2.56±.006 +.39 1.73±.004 +1.76 22.41±.001 +10.61 106.28±.01 -5.57
Resin cross-linking 3.53±.005 +38.43 2.25±.006 +32.35 24.31±.02 +19.9 95.63±.01 -15.04
Combination 3.59±.004 +40.78 2.42±.004 +42.35 24.84±.01 +22.6 86.35±.01 -23.28
CD .017 .014 .034 .027
Palmarosa Microencapsulation 3.68±.004 +44.31 2.49±.023 +46.47 27.70±.02 +36.72 78.36±.01 -30.38
Direct 2.54±.005 +.39 1.77±.007 +4.11 22.62±.02 +10.64 107.35±.02 -4.62
Resin cross-linking 3.48±.006 +36.47 2.13±.009 +25.29 24.18±.01 +19.34 102.15±.01 -9.24
Combination 3.63±.010 +42.35 2.30±.004 +35.29 25.32±.01 +24.97 89.72±.01 -20.29
CD .021 .035 .040 .032
Peppermint Microencapsulation 3.73±.005 +46.27 2.53±.009 +48.82 28.15±.02 +38.94 74.15±.01 -34.12
Direct 2.58±.007 +1.17 1.78±.003 +4.70 22.81±.01 +12.58 103.49±.01 -8.05
Resin cross-linking 3.59±.009 +40.78 2.26±.010 +32.94 24.13±.01 +19.10 96.27±.01 -14.47
Combination 3.66±.004 +43.52 2.38±.004 +40.00 24.78±.01 +22.30 84.45±.01 -11.25
CD .018 .019 .032 .032
At 5.0% level of significance, + increase, - decrease, SE. = Standard error

89
Effect of aroma treatment on texture of fabrics: Texture is the appearance of the surface of
fabric. It determines the hand or feel of the fabric. The effect of aroma treatment on texture of
treated samples was evaluated visually and results are presented in Table 37.
Table 37: Effect of aroma treatment on texture of the selected fabrics
Treatment methods Essential oils Texture of aroma treated fabrics (WMS)
Woven Knitted
Control untreated sample 4.20 4.70
Geranium 2.80 2.80
Lime 2.70 2.50
Microencapsulation
Palmarosa 2.50 2.90
Peppermint 2.70 2.75
Geranium 3.40 3.35
Lime 3.35 3.60
Direct
Palmarosa 3.10 3.25
Peppermint 3.55 3.65
Geranium 3.20 3.05
Lime 3.40 3.40
Resin cross-linking
Palmarosa 3.05 3.15
Peppermint 3.00 3.50
Geranium 3.30 3.25
Lime 2.70 2.80
Combination
Palmarosa 2.85 2.75
Peppermint 3.25 3.60
4.2 - 5= Very smooth, 3.4 - 4.2 = Smooth, 3.4 – 2.6 = Medium, 1.8 – 2.6 = Rough, 1- 1.8 = Very rough

It is clear from the Table that control sample of both the fabrics i.e. woven and knitted
had very smooth texture scoring 4.2 to 4.7 respectively. In case of directly treated woven
fabric with geranium, lime and peppermint oil and knitted fabric treated with lime and
peppermint oil were in the range of smooth texture i.e. 3.65 to 3.35 whereas palmarosa treated
woven and knitted fabric and geranium treated knitted fabric had medium texture i.e. 3.35 to
3.10.
In case of microencapsulation method of aroma treatment, both the woven and knitted
fabrics treated with all the selected essential oils were in the range of medium texture. In resin
cross-linking method of aroma treatment smooth texture of treated samples was observed for
lime treated woven and knitted fabric (3.40) and peppermint treated knitted fabric (3.50).
Whereas for woven fabric treated with geranium, palmarosa and peppermint oil and knitted
fabric treated with geranium and palmarosa, medium texture was assigned by the respondents.
In combination method of aroma treatment, all the treated samples were found of medium
texture (2.7 to 3.30) except knitted fabric treated with peppermint oil of which smooth texture
(3.6) was observed.

90
 So it was concluded that the untreated control sample had very smooth texture and
after application of essential oils by different methods it was smooth to medium. Smooth
texture was observed when all the samples treated by direct method as compared to all the
other three treatment method.
Effect of aroma treatment on whiteness of fabrics: The whiteness index of the samples
treated with all the four essential oils using optimum conditions of all the four treatment
methods have been presented in Table 38.
Table 38: Effect of aroma treatment on whiteness of the selected fabrics
Essential Treatment Whiteness index of Woven fabric Whiteness index of knitted fabric
oils Methods X Y Z Whiteness X Y Z Whiteness
Index Index
Control 73.89 77.84 88.41 94.37 71.01 75.15 89.31 105.07
Microencapsulation 72.43 76.32 86.22 91.35 72.59 76.70 89.06 99.75
Direct 73.72 77.55 88.80 92.48 71.33 75.55 88.54 101.32
Geranium Resin cross- linking
71.87 76.22 83.26 87.86 74.12 78.91 87.56 81.11
Combination
72.10 76.28 84.32 91.28 70.51 75.33 82.48 88.59
Microencapsulation 72.58 76.87 84.57 86.83 71.04 75.73 84.95 88.60
Direct 72.10 76.84 80.06 87.70 72.87 77.63 85.37 91.09
Lime Resin cross- linking
71.60 76.75 79.33 86.26 69.80 74.53 81.47 79.85
Combination
71.84 75.93 83.41 87.09 73.21 78.11 87.64 84.69
Microencapsulation 68.16 72.81 86.15 86.18 70.60 75.49 82.01 89.72
Direct 69.75 72.03 84.32 86.78 72.10 77.11 83.15 91.79
Palmarosa Resin cross- linking
67.11 72.26 82.96 84.33 71.33 75.95 85.46 78.46
Combination
68.54 72.35 82.37 84.45 75.29 80.37 89.16 79.03
Microencapsulation 72.12 75.72 87.20 92.67 71.33 75.41 88.54 99.75
Direct 72.66 76.71 86.64 92.97 69.71 74.34 82.72 101.72
Peppermint Resin cross- linking
71.59 75.13 86.52 91.76 72.17 76.33 88.74 84.85
Combination
72.40 75.35 86.13 91.99 70.05 74.77 83.67 86.95

It was observed from the Table that control sample had whiteness index value of
94.37 in woven and 105.07 in knitted fabric. After application of essential oils it was further
decreased in both fabrics treated with all the essential oils by all the methods. Least decrease
of whiteness was noticed in geranium oil treated woven fabric (91.35, 92.48, 87.86 and 91.28)
an in knitted fabric (99.75, 101.32, 84.85 and 86.95) treated by all the four treatment methods
i.e. microencapsulation, direct, resin cross-linking and combination respectively. In case of
peppermint oil treated woven fabric by all the four treatment methods it was noticed to be
(92.67, 92.97, 91.76 and 91.99) and knitted fabric by (99.75, 101.72, 84.85 and 86.95)
respectively. When palmarosa essential oil treatment given by microencapsulation, direct,
resin cross-linking and combination to both the fabrics, whiteness was observed to be in
woven 86.78, 86.18, 84.33 and 84.45, in knitted fabric 91.79, 89.72, 78.46 and 79.03.

91
 96
94
Whiteness index value
92
90
88
86
84
82
80
78
Microencapsulation

Microencapsulation

Microencapsulation

Microencapsulation
Combination

Combination
Control

Resin cross- linking

Resin cross- linking

Resin cross- linking

Resin cross- linking

Direct

Direct

Direct

Direct
Combination

Combination
Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint

Treatment methods

Fig. 5: Effect of aroma treatment on whiteness of woven fabrics

120
Whiteness index value

100
80
60
40
20
0
Microencapsulation

Microencapsulation

Microencapsulation

Microencapsulation
Combination

Combination
Direct

Direct

Direct

Direct
Control

Resin cross- linking

Resin cross- linking

Resin cross- linking

Resin cross- linking

Combination

Combination

Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint

Treatment methods

Fig. 6: Effect of aroma treatment on whiteness of knitted fabrics

It is concluded from Table 38 and Figure 5 and 6 that whiteness of both the fabrics
treated with lime and palmarosa oil was decreased as compared to geranium and peppermint
oil. The samples treated with all the essential oils by direct method were more whiter
followed by samples treated with microencapsulation, combination and resin cross-linking
method.

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CHAPTER-V

DISCUSSION

With growing health care cost and sometimes impersonal quality of conventional
medicine, consumers have turned to nature to find out their question. Today textiles can be
treated so that they protect one from all kinds of adverse conditions yet at the same time are
comfortable (Nelson 2002). Many fragrant fabrics have been developed nowadays due to the
reason of enjoying a healthy life style and these novel products often possess additional
functionalities which are good for human health. Recently, people have started paying great
attention to medical effect of ‘forest bath’, aromatic therapy, plant sterilization and fragrant
plant essential oil. Not only does plant essential oil gives off a pleasant smell, but also the
functions of antiseptic, emotional calming and stress relive. The health care function of
natural fragrant fabrics can satisfy people fashion, comfortable life style as well as health
needs (Wang et al., 2009). So a need was perceived to impart aroma treatment on cotton
fabrics.
To achieve the objectives proposed in the research plan, two types of cotton fabrics
i.e. one woven and one knitted were selected and four essential oils were selected on the basis
of aroma of the oil and its therapeutic effects. As garments are subjected to different agencies
like washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying, the durability of treatment is a major issue.
Hence, in this study different treatment methods like microencapsulation, direct, resin cross-
linking and combination were used to fix essential oils on the fabrics. For application of the
aroma treatment on woven and knitted cotton fabrics with all the four essential oils, different
parameters for all the four selected treatment methods were optimized. After the application
of essential oils using optimized variables, the treated fabrics were investigated for change in
performance and comfort properties as compared to untreated fabrics. Microscopic analysis of
treated fabrics was done to know about the presence of microcapsules and surface
modification on fabrics. Aroma durability of treated fabrics in terms of aroma retention and
intensity when subjected to washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying was assessed. Texture
and colour change of treated as well as untreated fabrics samples were also evaluated to know
the effect of aroma treatment on the appearance of the fabrics. The chapter presents the
discussion regarding the finding of the study under following subheads:
5.1 Selection of Essential Oils
5.2 Standardization of Different Variables of Treatment Methods for Aroma Treatment
5.3 Application of Essential Oils on Fabrics using Optimized Variables
5.4 Microscopic Analysis of Aroma Treated Fabrics
5.5 Assessment of Aroma Durability of Treated Fabrics
5.6 Testing of Performance and Comfort Properties of Aroma Treated Fabrics

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5.1 Selection of Essential Oils
Essential oils are volatile and liquid aroma compounds from natural sources, usually
plants. These are sensitive materials which can easily suffer degradation under the action of
oxygen, light and moderate temperatures. Furthermore, they are insoluble in water, and for
certain applications a controlled release is required (Martin et al., 2010). An exhaustive list of
various essential oils was prepared and after exclusion of those essential oils on which similar
researches have been carried out, thirteen oils which were easily available and cost effective
were chosen to sought preferences. Out of thirteen, four essential oils i.e. geranium, lime,
palmarosa and peppermint were selected for application onto the cotton woven and knitted
fabrics. The four essential oils were selected with the help of a self-structured preferential
choice index on two parameters i.e. aroma of the oil and its therapeutic effects. Sukumar and
Lakshmikantha (2010) reported that scents of lavender, rose, citrus and vanilla were
encapsulated into fabrics, which prove a very good way to meet important psychological and
emotional needs, as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature. Suthaphot et. al.
(2012) used lavender, rose, peppermint, jasmine and eucalyptus essential oils for application
onto the cotton fabric.
5.2 Standardization of Different Variables of Treatment Methods for Aroma Treatment
For application of aroma treatment on the selected fabrics, different methods i.e.
microencapsulation, direct, resin cross-linking and combination were used. Experiments were
conducted to optimize treatment variable of each i.e. padding bath components, material to
liquor ratio, treatment time, drying temperature and time, curing temperature and time on the
basis of performance properties. The presence of microcapsules and wash durability were also
tested for the microencapsulation and combination method. The optimization of various
variables are discussed below:
5.2.1 Microencapsulation method: The various treatment variables of the
microencapsulation method were optimized for all the four essential oil to give aroma
treatment to both the fabrics.
5.2.1.1 Optimization of padding bath components: For preparation of padding bath for
microencapsulation method, microcapsule gel, softener and binder are required. Hence
microcapsule gel was prepared using selected oils i.e. geranium, lime, palmarosa and
peppermint. Gum acacia and gelatin were mixed with each oil using the complex coacervation
technique and optimization of various variables was carried out to obtain the best results.
i. Optimization of the ratio of essential oils, gum acacia and gelatin in microcapsule
gel: Gum acacia and gelatin were used as a wall material and essential oil as a core material for
preparation of microcapsules through complex cocervation technique. Various proportions of
oil, gum and gelatin were tried individually for each oil keeping other variables constant and the
formed gel was observed under inverted microscope for the presence of microcapsules.

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 The ratio of essential oil: gum acacia: gelatin for microencapsulation was 1:4:4, in
case of geranium oil however for lime, palmarosa and peppermint oil 1:2:4 ratio was
optimized. The microcapsules formed with these optimized ratios were of medium size with
good uniformity in size and distribution having sharp and thick walls of capsules. More
amount of oil led to larger size of capsules and in some cases no gel formation occurred as the
gum and gelatin were not able to form wall around it. When the amount of gum was increased
the walls of the capsules started rupturing and lumps were formed due to disproportionate
ratio of oil and gum. Maya et. al. (2003) did microencapsulation of oil with gelatin and gum
acacia with their concentration being 1% and paraffin oil to be 15 ml per 100 ml. Zivdar and
Nafaji (2004) also recommended core to wall ratio as 1:1 and 1:2 while gelatin to gum Arabic
content to be 2:1. The results are in accordance with the Bhat (2012) who reported that gum
acacia: lemongrass essential oil: gelatin of ratio 2:1:4 was the most appropriate ratio for
formation of microcapsules of essential oil. Danfeng et. al. (2012) also prepared lemon oil
microcapsules by complex cocervation and reported that microcapsules were formed at core
to wall ratio 1:3, gelatin and gum acacia ratio to be 3:3, as ratio more than this formed large
size of capsules and wall of capsules started rupturing.
ii. Optimization of temperature: It was observed that best microcapsules were
obtained at 50°C temperature in terms of size, uniformity in distribution and wall were
optimized. As temperature increased though the size of microcapsules increased but the walls
of microcapsules started rupturing as oils are volatile in nature hence started evaporating that
led to rupturing of wall and leaching of oils. Teli et. al. (2005) found that 40°C temperature
was suitable for microencapsulation. Agrawal and Goel (2010) reported that higher
temperature led to increase in evaporation of essential oils resulting in rupturing of walls. It
was also revealed that smaller microcapsules have longer life as compared to larger
microcapsules. The results obtained are in line with the findings of Ganesan et. al. (2012) who
found that 40- 50°C temperature was suitable for microencapsulation as the increased
temperature led to increase in size of microcapsules resulting in wall rupture.
iii. Optimization of pH: For microencapsulation, the initial pH 4.5 and final pH 9.0
were found optimum in case of geranium, lime and palmarosa and 4.0 and 10.0 for
peppermint oil for formation of capsules. Microcapsules were formed only when the initial
pH ranged between 4 to 5 and final 9 to 10 as phase separation occurs at acidic range and at
the end microcapsules needs to be applied on cotton fabrics hence the final pH was kept
alkaline. Korolia and Mendapara (2007) observed that microencapsulation occurred at acidic
conditions as it led to phase separation which was initial and essential step of coacervation.
The findings of Sukumar and Lakshmikantha (2010) also support the results as they reported
that microcapsules were formed at initial pH ranged from 4-4.5 and final pH to be 9. Danfeng

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et. al. (2012) also prepared microcapsules by complex coacervation and reported the
coacervation pH to be 4 and final to be 9.
After the preparation of microcapsules gel with optimized variables, padding bath was
prepared using microcapsule gel, softener and binder for application of microcapsules gel on
the selected fabrics. The proportion of padding bath components was optimized on the basis
of presence of microcapsules on the fabric examined through e-scope, wash durability,
bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery angle.
I. Optimization of the proportion of microcapsule gel: The optimum proportion of
microcapsule gel in padding bath was found to be 50 g/l for all the four essential oils. It was
observed that with lower proportion of microcapsule gel, very few microcapsules were
deposited in the fabric and poor wash durability was observed and with increased proportion
of microcapsule gel the deposition number of microcapsules increased. At ratio 60 g/l, too
many microcapsules were observed but bending length, flexural rigidity was more and crease
recovery was less as compared to 50 g/l proportion of microcapsule gel. Monllor et. al. (2009)
revealed through SEM and FTIR analysis that when concentration of microcapsules increased
their number on the fabric also increased. Monllor et. al. (2010) and Ganesan et. al. (2012)
used 60 g/l of microcapsule gel for padding bath along with binder because at this proportion
more number of microcapsules were present.
II. Optimization of proportion of softener: Softener was used to control the stiffness
of the microencapsulated fabrics. The optimum proportion of softener in padding bath was
found to be 3 g/l. At higher proportion, decreased wash durability and increased bending
length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery was observed with all the essential oils treated
fabrics. It may be due to more deposition of microcapsules on the treated fabrics.
Sathianarayanan et. al. (2010) through the surface morphological data revealed that
microencapsulated fabrics become stiff thus some amount of softener must be incorporated
during the application of finish.
III. Optimization of proportion of binder: Binder improves the microcapsule adhesion
to the fabrics. The optimum proportion of binder in padding bath was found to be 15 g/l. At
this proportion wash durability lasted till 20 wash cycles with decreased bending length,
flexural rigidity and increased crease recovery. It may be due to lesser amount of binder was
not able to adhere microcapsules to the fabric and higher amount showed good washing
durability as well as presence of microcapsule on the fabric. Nelson (2002) pointed out the
fact that for application of microcapsules to fibers such as cotton, should be applied using a
binder to survive repeated washing. Fabien et. al. (2009) reported that it was not necessary to
have high concentration of binder for microcapsules to achieve the best wash durability. To
limit the loss of coating material after wash, proportion of padding bath material components

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should be optimized. Sukumar and Lakshmikantha (2010) used ratio of binder and softener as
4:1 for padding.
5.2.1.2 Optimization of MLR for padding bath: Different material to liquor ratio were tried
and it was found that maximum number of microcapsules were present on fabric at material to
liquor ratio 1:20 and its wash fastness was also good and lasted till 20 wash cycles in both the
fabrics so, it was optimized. An increase in the MLR reduced the deposition of microcapsules it
may be due to the reason that the fabric when dipped in the padding bath of higher MLR, it
could not absorb all the contents hence a lower MLR gave better results. The reason for higher
deposition of microcapsules at material to liquor ratio 1:20 may be that at MLR 1:20, the
quantity of liquor was optimum for the absorption of contents of the liquor to the fabric and
MLR less than this might not result in uniform absorption of the contents from the water
treatment. The results are in line with the findings of Thilagavathi et. al. (2007) where MLR
1:20 was used for application of neem and maxican daisy extracts on fabric with pad-dry-cure
method. Sukumar and Laxmikantha (2010) also used the MLR 1:20 for applying lavender
microcapsules on cotton fabric.
5.2.1.3 Optimization of treatment time: For application of aroma, the fabrics were
immersed in the padding bath containing optimum proportion of microcapsule gel, softener
and binder at optimum MLR. The optimization was done on the basis of more number of
microcapsules present on the fabrics treated with all the essential oils having decreased
bending length, flexural rigidity and increased crease recovery at different treatment times i.e.
20, 30 and 40 minutes. It was inferred that at treatment time 30 minutes, too many
microcapsules were present and wash durability lasted till 25 wash cycles in woven and 20
wash cycles in knitted fabric with decreased bending length, flexural rigidity and increased
crease recovery, so it was optimized. This might be due to the reason that the saturation point
for absorption of essential oil microcapsules was at 30 minutes and no further change in
performance properties was observed after 30 minutes of treatment time. It seemed that
essential oils microcapsules started diffusing again into the treatment bath after a time period
of 30 minutes. Anitha et. al. (2011) also treated encapsulated copper oxide nano particles on
cotton fabrics for 30 minutes in padding bath.
5.2.1.4 Optimization of drying temperature and time: To determine the optimum drying
temperature for application of essential oils, optimum proportion of microcapsule gel,
softener and binder were applied using optimum MLR and treatment time and dried at four
different drying temperature variations i.e. 70°, 80°, 90° and 100°C. For woven fabric treated
with all four essential oils, the optimum drying temperature was observed as 80°C for 3
minutes as at this temperature too many stable microcapsules were present on the fabric and
their wash durability lasted till 25 wash cycles with improved performance properties. In case
of geranium and peppermint treated knitted fabric at temperature 90°C whereas in case of

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palmarosa and lime treated knitted fabric at temperature 80° and 70°C, too many
microcapsules were present on the fabric and their wash durability lasted till 20 wash cycles
with improved performance properties. The duration optimized for knitted fabric was 4, 3 and
2 minutes for geranium and lime, peppermint, palmarosa treated respectively. Drying at
higher temperature for longer duration might cause rupturing of microcapsules and yellowing
of fabrics and leads to increase in bending length and flexural rigidity and decrease in crease
recovery. Monllor et. al. (2009) reported that loss of fragrance from microcapsules occurred
at temperature between 90°C to 120°C as microcapsules could not withstand temperature
more than 120°C. Sathianarayanan et. al. (2010) dried microencapsulated cotton fabric at
80°C for 5 minutes. Specos et. al. (2010) reported that cotton fabric treated with lime oil
microcapsules after padding and squeezing were dried at 90°C for 5 minutes and cured at
130°C for 35 seconds. Thilagavathi and Kannaian (2010) also dried geranium extract treated
woven cotton fabric at 80°C and cured at 140°C for 2 minutes.
5.2.1.5 Optimization of curing temperature and curing time: Temperature and time of
curing are important variables to control and obtain proper fixing of microcapsules in treated
fabrics. Curing was done to diffuse the aroma into the fiber polymer system for better affinity.
For optimizing curing temperature and time for application of essential oils on to the fabrics,
the treated fabrics were cured at different temperatures i.e. 100, 110, 120 and 130°C for
different time duration i.e. 30 to 120 seconds. Woven fabric treated with all the oils, showed
too many microcapsules and wash durability lasted till 25 wash cycles with improved
performance properties at curing temperature 110°C for 30 seconds except peppermint treated
woven fabric at 60 seconds.
Knitted fabric treated with all the oils, curing temperature of 110°C for 60 seconds except in
case of palmarosa treated at 100°C for 30 seconds duration was optimized as best results were
obtained in terms of presence of microcapsules on fabric, wash durability, bending length,
flexural rigidity and crease recovery. At higher curing temperature, the wash durability
decreased. Treated fabrics, if exposed to higher temperature for longer curing time resulted in
rupturing of wall and number of microcapsules decreased. Monllor et. al. (2009) revealed that
stronger curing conditions increased binder reaction and improved fixation of capsules but
fragrance was volatile so it could not withstand strong curing conditions hence should not
subjected to high temperature and longer curing time. Shiqui et. al. (2009) observed that
thermal treatment can give contradictory effects on washing durability of fragrance finished
fabrics. Higher temperature and longer curing time usually increased fastness of capsules on
textiles with decreased aroma inside the capsules because higher the temperature of curing,
more volatilization of fragrance.
5.2.2 Direct method: The aroma treatment was directly applied on both the selected
fabrics i.e. woven and knitted cotton with all the four selected essential oils. For preparation

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of padding bath, concentration of citric acid was optimized and mixed with optimized ratio of
essential oils as in case of microencapsulation method. It was observed that at 6 percent
concentration of citric acid there was improvement in performance properties, hence 6%
concentration of citric acid was optimized. While other optimized treatment variables MLR-
1:20 and treatment time-30 minutes was found optimum for treatment of woven and knitted
fabric with all the four essential oils. Optimum drying temperature was found to be 80°C for
geranium, lime and peppermint treated woven fabric and geranium and peppermint treated
knitted fabric whereas 90°C for palmarosa treated woven fabric and lime and palmarosa
treated knitted fabric while drying duration of 2 minutes was found to be optimum except for
palmarosa and peppermint treated knitted fabric which was 3 minutes. Curing temperature of
120°C for both the fabrics treated with all the four essential oils except for lime treated
knitted fabric it was 110°C. Curing duration of 60 seconds was found to be optimum for both
the fabrics treated with all the essential oils whereas for lime and peppermint treated woven
fabric and lime treated knitted fabric it was 30 seconds. The results are supported by the
findings of Sood (2014) which stated that 6 percent citric acid in padding bath with MLR 1:20
and 30 minutes of treatment time were optimized for direct application of extract of
Eucalyptus citriodora, Pinus roxburghii and Woodfordia fructicosa on cotton fabric by pad-
dry-cure method
5.2.3 Resin cross-linking method: For application of aroma treatment through resin cross-
linking method on cotton fabrics, proportion of non-formaldehyde based resin cross-linking
agent i.e. 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxlic acid (BTCA) and compatible catalyst i.e. sodium
hypophosphite was optimized and mixed with optimum ratio of essential oils as in case of
microencapsulation method for preparation of padding bath. It was revealed that optimum
proportion of BTCA was 12 g/l for woven fabric treated with all the oils except for palmarosa
treated fabric which was 13 g/l. Knitted fabric treated with all the four essential oils the
proportion of resin cross-linking agent was observed to be optimum at 13 g/l but for
peppermint oil treated fabric it was 12 g/l. 3 percent catalyst proportion for geranium, lime
and peppermint treated woven and geranium and palmarosa treated knitted fabric, 4 percent
for palmarosa treated woven and peppermint treated knitted fabric and 2 percent for lime
treated knitted fabric was selected as optimum catalyst proportion as catalyst proportion
higher than this led to increased bending length, flexural rigidity and decreased crease
recovery. Other treatment variables were also optimized as MLR 1:20, treatment time 30
minutes for all the four essential oils treated fabrics. A temperature of 80°C was found as
optimum drying temperature for woven fabric treated with geranium, lime and peppermint oil
and knitted fabric treated with geranium oil and 90°C for palmarosa treated knitted fabric. In
case of geranium and lime treated woven fabric, geranium, lime and palmarosa treated knitted
fabric drying duration of 5 minutes whereas for palmarosa and peppermint treated woven and

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peppermint treated knitted fabric 4 minutes drying time was found to be optimum. Woven
fabric treated with geranium, lime and peppermint oil and knitted fabric treated with geranium
and peppermint temperature of 140°C and for palmarosa treated woven and lime and
palmarosa treated knitted fabric temperature of 130°C was found to be appropriate for curing.
Both the selected fabrics cured for 90 seconds duration but peppermint treated woven fabric
and geranium treated knitted fabric cured for 60 seconds duration as performance properties
were found better at these time durations. Wang et. al. (2005) reported that sodium
hypophosphite was the most effective catalyst applied with polycarboxylic acid. The results
are in line with the findings of Sathianarayanan et. al. (2010) who revealed that 12 g/1000ml
non-formaldehyde base resin cross-linking agent and 2 percent concentration of sodium
hypophosphite was used for application of herbal extract on cotton fabric through resin cross-
linking method with pad-dry-process and dried at 80°C temperature for 5 minutes duration.
Xing et. al. (2011) reported that polycarboxylic acid is a kind of medium strong acid and
gives maximum aroma absorption.
5.2.4 Combination method: The optimized recipe of microencapsulation and resin cross-
linking method was used for application of essential oil on woven and knitted fabric. Other
treatment variables were optimized as MLR 1:20, treatment time 30 minutes for all the four
essential oils treated woven and knitted fabrics. 80°C drying temperature for geranium, lime
and peppermint treated woven fabric and lime and peppermint treated knitted fabric and 90°C
for palmarosa treated woven fabric and geranium and palmarosa treated knitted fabric, 3
minutes duration of drying for lime, palmarosa and peppermint treated woven fabrics, 4
minutes for geranium treated woven, lime, palmarosa and peppermint treated knitted fabrics
and 5 minutes for geranium treated knitted fabric. Optimum curing temperature for both the
fabrics treated with all the selected essential oils was 120°C and for palmarosa treated woven
fabric and geranium and palmarosa treated knitted fabric it was 130°C. Curing duration of 60
seconds for all the woven samples and 90 seconds for all the knitted samples treated with all
the four essential oils was found to be optimum. Sathianarayanan et. al. (2010) also applied
herbal extract using combination of microencapsulation and resin cross-linking methods with
pad-dry cure process and dried for 80°C for 5 minutes and cured for 3 minutes duration.
5.3 Application of Essential Oils on Fabrics using Optimized Variables
The essential oils i.e. geranium, lime, palmarosa and peppermint were applied on
woven and knitted cotton fabrics after optimization of treatment variables of
microencapsulation, direct, resin cross-linking and combination methods using pad-dry-cure
process (Table 22). Treatment bath was prepared for each method using optimized padding
bath components.
In microencapsulation method, for both the fabrics treated with all the four essential
oils, the fabrics were dipped into the padding bath having optimum proportion of

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microcapsule gel: softener: binder i.e. 50:3:15 g/l for 30 minutes keeping optimum MLR
1:20. Afterwards the fabrics were passed between the rollers of the pneumatic padding
mangle at a pressure of 2 Kg/cm2. The treated woven fabrics were dried at optimum
temperature of 80°C for 3 minutes treated with all the essential oils, drying temperature for
knitted fabric was 90°C for geranium and peppermint oil and 80°C for palmarosa and lime.
Drying duration for knitted fabric was 4 minutes (geranium and lime), 3 minutes (peppermint)
and 2 minutes (palmarosa). Woven fabric treated with all the oils were cured at 110°C for 30
seconds except peppermint for 60 seconds. Knitted fabrics treated with all the oils were cured
at 110°C for 60 seconds except palmarosa treated at 100°C for 30 seconds.
For direct application of both the fabrics treated with all the four essential oils, the
optimized proportion of essential oils was taken with optimum concentration of citric acid
(6%), treatment time-30 minutes, MLR-1:20. Treated fabrics were passed between the rollers
of the pneumatic padding mangle at a pressure of 2 Kg/cm2 and dried at optimum temperature
of 80°C for geranium, lime and peppermint treated woven fabric and for geranium and
peppermint treated knitted fabric, 90°C for palmarosa treated woven fabric and lime and
palmarosa treated knitted fabric. Optimum drying duration was 2 minutes for all the essential
oils treated fabrics except 3 minutes for palmarosa and peppermint treated knitted fabric.
Optimum curing temperature for both the fabrics treated with all the selected essential oils
was 120°C except 110°C for lime treated woven fabric, Curing duration - 60 seconds for both
woven and knitted fabrics treated with all the essential oils, 30 seconds for lime and
peppermint treated woven fabric and lime treated knitted fabric.
Padding bath was prepared for resin cross-linking of essential oils using optimized
proportion of BTCA i.e. 12 g/l for woven fabric treated with geranium, lime and peppermint
and for peppermint treated knitted fabric, 13 g/l for knitted fabric treated with geranium, lime
and palmarosa oil and for palmarosa treated woven fabric with 3 g/l sodium hypophosphite
for geranium, lime and peppermint treated woven and geranium and palmarosa treated knitted
fabric whereas 4 g/l for palmarosa treated woven and peppermint treated knitted fabric and 2
g/l for lime treated knitted fabric for optimum duration of 30 minutes at MLR 1:20.
Afterwards passing the fabrics between the rollers of the pneumatic padding mangle were
dried at optimum temperature of 80°C for geranium, lime and peppermint treated woven and
geranium treated knitted fabric and 90°C for lime and palmarosa treated knitted and
palmarosa treated woven fabric and drying duration of 5 minutes for geranium and lime
treated woven and geranium, lime and palmarosa treated knitted fabric, 4 minutes for
palmarosa and peppermint treated woven and peppermint treated knitted fabric. Dried
samples were cured at optimum temperature of 140°C for geranium, lime and peppermint
treated woven and geranium and peppermint knitted fabric, 130°C for palmarosa treated

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woven and for lime and palmarosa treated knitted fabric and all the treated samples were
cured for 90 seconds duration except geranium treated knitted fabric for 60 seconds.
For combination method, woven and knitted fabrics treated with optimized recipe of
microencapsulation and resin cross-linking method was used for essential oil treatment for
optimum treatment time of 30 minutes at optimum MLR of 1:20. Samples were passed
between the rollers of the pneumatic padding mangle at a pressure of 2 Kg/cm2 and dried at
optimum temperature of 80°C for geranium, lime and peppermint woven and lime and
peppermint knitted fabric, 90°C for palmarosa treated woven fabric and geranium and
palmarosa knitted fabric for optimum duration of 3 minutes for lime, palmarosa and
peppermint treated woven, 4 minutes for geranium treated woven and lime, palmarosa and
peppermint treated knitted fabric, 5 minutes for geranium treated knitted fabric. Geranium,
lime and peppermint treated woven and lime and peppemint treated knitted fabrics were cured
at 120°C whereas palmarosa woven and geranium and palmarosa knitted fabric at 130°C and
all the treated woven samples cured for 60 seconds duration and knitted samples cured for 90
seconds duration.
5.4 Microscopic Analysis of Aroma Treated Fabrics
The fabrics treated with different essential oils by microencapsulation and
combination methods were checked for presence of microcapsules and fabrics treated by
direct and resin cross-linking methods were checked to know about surface modification
under Scanning Electron Microscope. In case of microencapsulation and combination
methods fabric surface was found coated with numerous microcapsules containing selected
essential oils inside the matrix and varying in their sizes and shapes. In case of direct method
of treatment, some residues of citric acid were observed on the treated fabrics whereas in case
of fabric treated by resin cross-linking method, residue of BTCA and sodium hypophosphite
were present on the fabric surface. Shin et. al. (2005) observed that the microcapsules in the
microencapsulated samples were located at interstices between the fibers and on the fiber
surface. Cheng et. al. (2010) observed that the fiber surface was coated with numerous tiny
microcapsules containing aloe vera ingredients inside the matrix and these capsules varied in
their sizes with certain degree of agglomeration. Sathianarayanan et al. (2010) revealed that
through SEM analysis some granules were observed on the fabric surface when treated by
direct method and in microencapsulated fabric the microcapsules were in small spherical
shape with a fairly uniform size distribution. Suthaphot et. al. (2012) analyzed the fragranced
microencapsulated fabric through SEM and observed that fabric was coated with numerous
microcapsules of small size.
5.5 Assessment of the Aroma Durability of Treated Fabrics: Assessment of aroma
durability of treated fabrics to different agencies in use is of greater importance to users in
terms of longer life of aroma treatment. Essential oils are volatile in nature, so aroma

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durability is an important factor to be considered for essential oil treated fabrics. The aroma
durability in terms of retention and intensity of treated fabric was assessed after washing,
abrasion, ironing and sun-drying.
5.5.1 Retention of aroma: Aroma was found to be retained till 25 wash cycles in case of
combination and microencapsulation method in both the fabrics but in case of
microencapsulated knitted fabric it was retained till 20 wash cycles followed by resin cross-
linking (15) and direct method (10 wash cycles). It was noticed that aroma was found to be
decreased as the number of abrasion cycles increased as in microencapsulation and
combination method it was found till 100 abrasion cycles but in direct and resin cross-linking
methods respectively after 10 and 50 abrasion cycles, no aroma was retained. Aroma was
noticed to be decreased as application of iron increased from one to ten times. Maximum
number of respondents agreed that aroma was retained till 10 times of ironing in combination
method followed by microencapsulation whereas in direct and rein cross-linking method, no
aroma was observed after 1 and 5 times of ironing respectively in both fabrics treated with all
the essential oils. Aroma was noticed to be decreased as the number of hours of sun-drying
increased. In microencapsulation and combination method aroma was found retained till 3
hours of sun-drying in woven and 4 hours of sun-drying in knitted fabric but in direct method
after 1 hour in woven and 2 hours of sun-drying of knitted fabric, no aroma was retained. It
was revealed that when treated fabrics were subjected to different agencies i.e. washing,
abrasion, ironing and sun-drying aroma was found to be retained for longer life in case of
combination followed by microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and direct method. This can
be attributed to the fact that walls of microcapsules provided covering to the oil thus
protecting it from outside environment and providing it a controlled release to give it a longer
life. Sukumar and Lakshmikantha (2010) also revealed that aroma finish retained till 25 wash
cycles on bleached cotton fabric when applied through microencapsulation method. Monllor
et. al. (2010) observed that the number of microcapsules that goes out of the fabric is higher
in first washing. After 10-15 wash cycles the microcapsules leaving the fabric is not so high
and it tends to become constant and also observed that more times the fabric was ironed, the
more microcapsules were damaged and retention of aroma was reduced. Sathianarayanan et.
al. (2010) applied herbal extract of Ocimum sanctum (tulsi leaf) and rind of Punica granatum
(pomegranate) on cotton fabric with different methods and their wash durability was assessed.
It was observed that except direct application, all other treatments showed good washing
durability upto 15 wash cycles. Shah and Goel (2010) also pointed that aroma was retained
till 30 cycles wash, rub and abrasion cycles. The results of the study also supported by
findings of Thilagavathi and Kannaian (2010) that direct spray dried microcapsule treated
fabric retain as much as 50 to 60 percent of aroma even after 15 washes compared to the nil
retention ability of the geranium extract treated fabric by direct method.

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5.5.1 Intensity of aroma: It was noticed that intensity of aroma of both the fabrics treated
with all selected essential oils gradually decreased after exposure of treated fabric to different
agencies i.e. washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying. Intensity of aroma was strong till 10
wash cycles in microencapsulation and combination method whereas 5 wash cycles in direct
and resin cross linking method. In microencapsulation and combination method till 100
abrasion cycles followed by 50 in resin cross-linking and 10 in direct method, intensity of
aroma was observed in both the fabrics treated with selected essential oils which further
gradually decreased. Intensity of aroma was strong till ironed once which further decreased
after application of ironed 5 and 10 times in both the fabrics treated with selected essential
oils by selected methods. Intensity of aroma was observed upto ironed 5 times in fabrics
treated by direct method. However in case of other treatment methods intensity of aroma was
observed till ironed 10 times. Intensity of aroma decreased with more ironing. Intensity of
aroma decreased as the number of hours of sun-drying increased. In microencapsulation and
combination method mild aroma was present till 3 hours of sun-drying in woven and 4 hours
of sun-drying in knitted fabric whereas faint aroma was present in direct method after 2 hours
in woven and 3 hours of sun-drying in knitted fabric. More intensity of aroma was observed
in combination method followed by microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and direct
method. Wang et. al. (2005) observed that after washing the fragrance release rate decreased
and the results of sensorial evaluation showed that performance of the fabric lasted till 25
cycles of wash and the intensity gradually decreased with increase in the number of washes.
Muresan et. al. (2009) revealed that the samples treated with rosemary essential oil exhibited
maximum smell intensity in the first 15 days and then begins to decrease gradually. Bhat
(2012) also found that as the number of wash cycles increased the intensity of aroma
decreased as with each wash few microcapsules got washed away.
5.6 Testing of Performance and Comfort Properties of Aroma Treated Fabrics
The measurement of performance and comfort properties of aroma treated fabrics was
done to assess the effect of essential oil treatment on these properties.
Fabric count: The fabric count in warp and weft direction of cotton woven fabric increased
after application of all the four essential oils using all four treatment method and highest
increase was found in microencapsulation method (8.42 to 10.32 and 13.30 to 16.54%)
followed by combination (7.88 to 10.05 and 4.31 to 14.74%), resin cross-linking (1.63 to 3.80
and 0.71 to 2.15%) and direct method (0.81 to 2.17 and 1.08 to 3.59%) respectively. Increase
in fabric count may be due to the fact that the application of finish brought the warp and weft
closer because of shrinkage in fabric and due to the presence of cross-linking agent in the
treatment that binds the cellulose molecules by the cross-linking bonds bringing the
molecules close together and resist the movement here and there, as a result yarns come closer

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to each other, hence the fabric count increased. Bhat (2012) also observed that fabric count of
lemongrass oil treated woven fabric increased by 54 percent as compared to control sample.
Stitch density: The stitch density in course and wales direction of knitted fabric treated by all
the four essential oils increased by (1.17 to 4.70% and 2.20 to 5.69%) in direct, (5.88 to
10.58% and 8.27 to 8.94%) in resin cross-linking whereas decrease by (12.35 to 14.11% and
6.07 to 16.02%) in microencapsulation and (5.29 to 17.05% and 7.18 to 8.83%) in
combination method respectively. Increase in stitch density due to presence of cross-linking
agent in direct and resin cross-linking method. Decrease in stitch density in
microencapsulation and combination method might have occurred due to deposition of
microcapsules between the yarns and absorption of essential oils on fibers. Mulasavalagi
(2005) found that density of softener finished samples was greater in both the directions than
the control because the treated fabric might have turned the yarns finer and due to wet
treatment the yarn might have densely consolidated in the fabric. This increase was higher in
samples treated with cationic softener and may be because the cationic softeners were known
to impart high degree and an exceptional soft handle by their positively charged molecules
which were deposited on the negatively charged fiber surface. Moreover the softness
increased the stitch density.
Fabric thickness: The fabrics treated with all the essential oils, thickness increased in
comparison to the untreated control and slight increase was found in direct and resin cross-
linking method and the highest increase was in microencapsulation method followed by
combination method. The thickness increased by (3.44 to 6.89% and 1.92%) in direct method
followed by ( 10.34 to 13.79% and 1.92 to 3.84%) in resin cross-linking (17.24% and 3.84 to
5.76%) in combination and (24.13 to 27.58% and 9.61 to 11.53%) in microencapsulation
method in woven and knitted fabrics respectively. Increase in thickness can be attributed to
the fact that microcapsules got deposited on the fabrics in microencapsulation and
combination method, in case of directly and cross-linked treated fabrics slight increase in
thickness may be due to absorbance of essential oils and other auxiliary by the fabrics.
Mulasavalagi (2005) reported that cationic treatment increased the cloth thickness. Similarly
Nagarajan (2009) and Hooda (2012) also reported significant increase in the thickness of
herbal treated fabrics than the untreated ones. Sumithra and Raja (2012) stated that thickness
of the aroma finished denim fabric was found to higher as compared to untreated fabric.
Fabric weight: The weight of the treated fabrics significantly increased after aroma treatment
given by microencapsulation and combination method and non-significant increase in weight
was found by resin cross-linking and direct method with all the essential oils. The increase in
weight of fabrics may be due to application of essential oils and other auxiliaries i.e. β-
cyclodextrin, silicon softener, citric acid, resin cross-linking agent i.e. BTCA and sodium
hypophosphite as a catalyst in the treatments. They bind with the fabric through cross-linking

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reaction with the hydrogen bonds. The results of the study are supported by Chattopadhyay et.
al. (1998) who found that weight increased by increasing the BTCA concentration in presence
of any of the catalyst. This may be attributed to higher amount of attachment of citric acid
with cotton through cross-linking.
Bending length and flexural rigidity: Both the fabrics treated with all the essential oils by
different methods became stiff and the bending length in both warp and weft directions
increased, hence the flexural rigidity also increased as compared to untreated control sample.
It was observed from the results that highest increase in bending length and flexural rigidity
was observed in fabrics treated by microencapsulation followed by combination, resin cross-
linking and direct method. This might be due to the cross-linking reaction which made the
fabrics stiff. It was observed that as the fabric weight increased, stiffness increased for both
the fabrics types. Microencapsulated fabrics become stiffer because of presence of
microcapsules that deposited on the surface of fabric and made them stiff where as in case of
combination method bending length and flexural rigidity increased less because of cross-
linking agent made them softer than microencapsulated fabric. Chattopadhyay et. al. (1998)
supported the results with the fact that the cross-linking improved the dimensional stability
and affected the softness of the material, which ultimately increased bending length and
flexural rigidity of treated fabrics, irrespective of catalyst used. Karolia and Mendapara
(2007) reported the increase in bending length in both directions due to deposition of
finishing agents in the open interstices of the fabric. Sathianarayan et. al. (2010) also revealed
that the microencapsulated fabrics became stiff. The findings were also supported by
Sukumar and Lakshmikantha, (2010) that bending length and flexural rigidity of lavender and
jasmine oil microencapsulated cotton fabric increased as compared to untreated fabric.
Crease recovery: The crease recovery angle of both the fabrics treated with all the essential
oils in warp and weft direction increased in resin cross-linking and combination method
however in microencapsulation and direct method it decreased. Increase in weight indicated
decrease in crease recovery. Increase in crease recovery angle might be due to the use of resin
cross-linking agent, which can covalently crosslink with the adjacent cellulose chains within
cotton fibers. The new cross-linking bonds formed in the treatment process were stronger than
the former hydrogen bonds. The new cross-links held when the fabric under distortion and
moist conditions; the bonds pull the cellulose chains back into position after removal of
distorting force so that the fabric resist wrinkling. Polycarboxylic acids react with hydroxyl
groups of cellulose to form ester cross-links connecting adjacent cellulose chains in a three
dimensional network inside the cellulosic fibers. The decrease in crease recovery angle in
microencapsulation method might be due to the microcapsules made them fabric stiffer. The
results are in line with the findings of Sathianarayanan et. al. (2010) as there was highest
decrease in crease recovery in the fabric treated with microencapsulation followed by

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combination, resin cross-linking and direct method as compared to untreated. Sukumar and
Lakshmikantha (2010) also reported that there was decrease in crease recovery of
microencapsulated fabric as compared to untreated one. The results are also supported by the
findings of Xing et. al. (2011) that the crease recovery angle increased from 163 to 195
degree and wet crease recovery angle increased from 135 to 195 degree. Treated samples
showed a dramatic improvement in crease recovery angle (warp and weft), especially in the
wet state. There was hydroxyl group on the surface of cellulose, hence easy to form hydrogen
bond. When the samples were wrinkled, cellulose molecules chains slipped, which was the
reason that the crease recovery angle of cellulose fabric was low.
Air permeability: The air permeability of both the fabrics treated with all the essential oils
decreased after the application of the aroma treatment in comparison to untreated control
sample. The highest decrease in woven and knitted fabric by (19.45 to 21.21% and 30.38 to
34.81%) in microencapsulation followed by (13.51 to 17.49% and 11.25 to 23.28%) in
combination, (11.47 to 13.73% and 7.90 to 15.04% ) in resin cross-linking and (4.63 to 7.54
and 3.36 to 8.05) in direct method. The reason of decreasing air permeability might be the
higher fabric thickness and more number of fibers per unit area resisted air flow which led to
lower air permeability. Another possible reason might be that fibers are hydrophilic, hence
absorb a greater amount of essential oil treatment auxiliaries. The absorbed content within the
fiber filled up the gap between yarns, making the airflow pass less easily through the fabrics.
The results are in agreement to the findings of Ali et. al. (2011) that significant decrease in
the air permeability of the chitosan treated fabric samples as compared to untreated ones.
Hooda (2012) revealed that there was significant decresae in air permeability of neem and
aloe vera treated fabrics as compared to untreated sample. Significant loss in air permeability
was also observed by Sood (2014) in Eucalyptus citriodora, Pinus roxburghii and
Woodfordia fructicosa treated fabrics as compared to the untreated samples.
Tensile strength: The tensile strength of woven fabric treated with all the four essential oils
in warp and weft direction decreased by (17.05 to 18.27% and 14.89 to 17.58%) in
microencapsulation, (2.19 to 4.28% and 2.18 to 4.85%) in direct, (31.20 to 32.81%) in resin
cross-linking and (25.84 to 26.64% and 22.70 to 24.93%) in combination method respectively
as compared to control sample. Decrease in tensile strength might have been caused by the
acidity of the microcapsules solution or use of polycarboxlic acid in cross-linking method.
Since cotton is sensitive to acidic conditions, the low pH of the capsules solution probably
caused a damaging effect to the cotton fabric, leading to a lower tensile strength. Cheng et. al.
(2010) and Sukumar and Lakshmikantha (2010) reported that tensile strength of
microencapsulated fabrics decreased as compared to control sample. Findings of
Sathianarayanan et. al. (2010) supported the results that the change in tensile strength of
directly treated fabric is minor but in case of fabric cross-linked with resin decrease in tensile

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strength was more. However, decrease in tensile strength of microencapsulated fabric is less
as compared to resin cross-linking and combination method.
Elongation: The results of the study expressed that the elongation of the essential oil treated
woven fabric by different methods decreased as compared to untreated control sample. It was
observed that elongation of directly treated finished samples decreased slightly. Maximum
decrease in elongation was to be observed in woven fabric treated by resin cross-linking
followed by microencapsulation and combination method. The elongation might have
decreased due to the coating of the finish on the fabric that restricted the yarns to show their
natural elasticity. Another reason might be due to the stiffness of the fabric which was
obtained by cross-linking after application of finish. When the fabric became stiff the
elongation of the fabric decreased due to restricted movement of the cellulosic molecules
within the fiber. As result of it, instead of stretching, the fabric breaks off. Mulasavalagi
(2005) also concluded that there was reduction in elongation (percentage) when fabric was
treated with enzymes. Bhat (2012) found that elongation of woven fabric microencapsulated
with lemongrass oil microcapsules decreased by 16 percent in warp and 23 percent in weft
direction.
Tearing strength: The tearing strength of both the fabrics treated with all the four essential
oils by different methods found to be decreased when compared with control sample. The
highest decrease in tearing strength was observed in microencapsulation followed by resin
cross-linking, combination and direct method. Slight decrease was observed in both the
fabrics treated by direct method with all the essential oils. It was noticed that it decreased
more in weft direction as compared to warp direction of all the treated samples. Decrease in
tearing strength might be due to acidity of microcapsules on the fabric surface that weaken the
cellulosic fabric that led to quick tearing of fabric. Xing et. al. (2011) reported that treated
samples yield lower tearing strength compared with those of the untreated samples, because
cotton fabric is alkali fast but not resistant to acid, tearing strength losses were due to acid
hydrolysis reactions of cellulose macromolecules. The findings of Saranya et. al. (2014) also
supported the results that after aroma treatment, the tearing strength of knitted fabric was
found to be decreased.
Bursting strength: The bursting strength of knitted fabric treated with essential oils by
selected treatment methods decreased than the untreated control. Highest decrease was
observed in fabric treated by resin cross-linking method because formation of intermolecular
and intramolecular cross-links reduced the possibility of equalizing the stress distribution
causing reduction in the capacity to withstand load. Slight decrease in bursting strength was
noticed in knitted fabric treated with all the essential oils by direct method followed by
microencapsulation and combination method. The results of the study were supported by

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Edwin and Nalankilli (2012) who found that bursting strength significantly decreased after
application of polycarboxylic acids i.e. 1, 2, 3, 4-butane tetra carboxylic acid and malic acid.
Texture: Fabric handle is an essential comfort property of textile fabrics. It affects the
sensorial perception of humans when they touch a fabric. It is clear from the Table 36 that
untreated control samples was having very smooth texture. Samples treated with all the
essential oils, smooth to medium texture of fabrics was noticed in direct and resin cross-
linking method whereas medium texture was observed in microencapsulation and
combination treatment method. The drop in hand value i.e. texture of both fabrics was
believed to be largely attributed to the increase of surface frication after embedding the
essential oil and auxiliaries by different treatment methods on the fabric surface. Cheng et. al.
(2010) also found that there was decrease in total hand value of the microencapsulated fabric.
Colour change: Whiteness is the measurement of light reflectance across all wavelengths of
light comprising the full visible spectrum. Fabrics undergo various finishing treatments may
results in different extents of colour change. Whiteness index value of cotton samples treated
with different essential oils by different treatment methods was lesser than control sample. It
was obvious from the table that there was only a minor drop in whiteness value of both the
fabrics treated with geranium and peppermint oil. Whereas in case of lime and palmarosa oil
lower value of whiteness index was observed. Because geranium and peppermint oils were
colourless but lime and palmarosa have pale yellow in colour. The results are in line with
Cheng et. al. (2010) that after application of essential oils on the fabric there was slightly
decrease in the whiteness value.

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CHAPTER-VI

SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION

Fragrance into textiles and garments can be induced using essential oils. Numerous
attempts have been made by adding fragrance directly to the fibre and fabrics but all fail to
survive after one or two wash cycles because the fragrance of essential oils are volatile in
nature. The most difficult task in preparing the aromatherapy textiles is how to prolong its
lifetimes of odours (Sathianarayanan et al., 2010).
The present study ‘Development of aroma textiles using essential oils’ was carried
out to see the effect of treatment methods on aroma durability of the fabrics. Therefore, the
present study was undertaken with the following objectives:
1. To standardise process of essential oils application to prepare aroma fabrics.
2. To compare the effect of essential oils on properties of treated fabrics.
3. To study the durability of treatment on the fabrics.
To achieve the objectives proposed suitable medium weight bleached one woven and
one knitted fabric was selected for application of essential oils. Four essential oils were
selected on the basis of aroma and therapeutic effects through the preferential choice index.
The selected fabrics were treated with all the four essential oils using four treatment methods.
The desizing and scouring was done to prepare the fabric for aroma treatment. Phase
separation -complex coacervation technique was used for preparation of microcapsules of
selected essential oils.
The treatment variables were optimized for all the methods. The presence of
microcapsules under e-scope and wash durability of aroma treatment were also analyzed for
treatment variables for microencapsulation and combination method. After optimization of all
the treatment variables, the selected fabrics were treated with all the four essential oils using
optimized treatment conditions of each method by pad-dry-cure process. Microscopic analysis
of aroma treated fabric was done through SEM to check the surface modification. The aroma
durability in terms of retention and intensity of treated fabric after washing, abrasion, ironing
and sun-drying was assessed by 25 respondents. Performance and comfort properties were
tested to analyze the effect of essential oils on the fabrics.
The important findings of the study are summarized as follows:
The essential oils were applied onto the selected fabrics with four treatment methods i.e.
microencapsulation, direct, resin cross-linking and combination.
Microencapsulation method: The essential oil, gum acacia and gelatin in the ratio of 1:4:4
for geranium and palmarosa oil and ratio of 1:2:4 for lime and peppermint oil at temperature
50°C with initial pH 4.5 and final pH 9.0 for all the selected oils but for peppermint oil it was

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4.0 and 10.0 respectively were optimized as the prepared microcapsules were medium sized,
had good uniformity in size and distribution with sharp and thick walls at these optimized
conditions. The aroma treatment was given using microcapsule gel: softener: binder (50:3:15)
keeping MLR 1:20 for 30 minutes treatment time as too many microcapsules were present on
the fabrics along with wash durability with decreased bending length and flexural rigidity and
increased crease recovery. Treated fabrics when dried at temperature from 70-90ºC for 2 to 4
minutes and cured at 100°C to 110ºC for 30 to 60 seconds exhibited more number of
microcapsules, longer wash durability and better performance properties.
Direct method: The optimum concentration of citric acid was 6 percent, MLR 1:20 and
treatment time 30 minutes with decreased bending length and flexural rigidity and increased
crease recovery. The optimum temperature for drying and curing were 80° to 90°C and 110°
to 120°C respectively for 2 to 4 minutes and 30 to 60 seconds respectively.
Resin cross-linking method: The bending length and flexural rigidity was observed to be
lowest and crease recovery was found to be highest at 12 and 13 g/l proportion of resin cross-
linking agent (BTCA) with 2 to 4 g/l catalyst (sodium hypophosphite) proportion for
geranium, lime and peppermint treated woven and geranium and palmarosa treated knitted
fabric. The treatment time 30 minutes when dried at 80° to 90°C for 4-5 minutes and cured
for 130° to 140°C for 60 to 90 seconds gave best results.
Combination method: The optimized recipe of padding bath of microencapsulation and the
resin cross-linking method was used for this method. At MLR 1:20 and treatment time of 30
minutes, more number of microcapsules, longer wash durability and better performance
properties were observed on both the fabrics treated with all the essential oils. All the treated
samples were dried at optimum temperature of 80° to 90°C for duration of 4 -5 minutes and
cured for 120° to 130 °C optimum temperature for 60 to 90 seconds optimum duration.
Microscopic Analysis of Aroma Treated Fabrics: The microscopic analysis through SEM
of all the essential oils treated fabrics with microencapsulation and combination method
exhibited the presence of microcapsules onto the fabric surface. Some residues of citric acid
and resin cross-linking agent were noticed on fabric surface when essential oils treatment was
given by direct and resin cross-linking method.
Assessment of the Aroma Durability of Treated Fabrics: Aroma was retained till 10, 15
and 25 wash cycles in direct, resin cross linking and combination method respectively. Aroma
was found to be retained till 100 abrasion cycles through microencapsulation and combination
method. In microencapsulation and combination method aroma was found to be retained till
10 times of ironing. Retention of aroma was found even after 3 hours of sun-drying in woven
and 4 hours in knitted fabric treated with all the essential oils through microencapsulation and
combination method. Intensity of aroma was found to be strong till 10 wash cycles with
microencapsulation and combination treatment method whereas it was felt strong till 5 wash

111
cycles in direct and resin cross-linking method. Intensity of aroma was strong when ironed
once which further decreased after 5 and 10 times. Mild intensity of aroma was mild even
after 3 hours of sun-drying of woven and 4 hours of knitted fabric.
Performance and Comfort Properties of Aroma treated Fabrics
The fabric count (woven), weight, thickness, bending length and flexural rigidity of
fabrics increased after application of essential oils. The highest increase in all these properties
was found in microencapsulation treated fabrics followed by combination, resin cross-linking
and direct method. Stitch density of knitted fabric increased in microencapsulation and
combination method of treatment whereas it decreased in direct and resin cross-linking
method. Crease recovery decreased in warp and weft direction in microencapsulated and
directly treated fabrics whereas it increased in both directions of the woven and knitted
samples treated with all the essential oils through resin cross-linking and combination
method. Air permeability of all the treated samples decreased after the application of the
aroma treatment with all the essential oils and the highest decrease was found in samples of
microencapsulation method of treatment followed by combination, resin cross-linking and
direct method.
Tensile strength and elongation of all the four essential oils treated woven fabrics
decreased and least decrease was observed in fabrics treated by direct method followed by
microencapsulation, combination and resin cross-linking method. Tearing strength of both the
fabrics decreased when essential oils treatment were applied by different methods. The
highest decrease was observed in the samples of microencapsulation followed by resin cross-
linking and combination method while slight decrease was observed in the samples of both
the fabrics treated by direct method. The bursting strength of knitted fabric treated with all the
four essential oils decreased when aroma treatment was given by all the four treatment
methods. The highest decrease in bursting strength was observed in the fabrics treated by
resin cross-linking method followed by combination and microencapsulation method. A slight
decrease was noticed in knitted fabric treated with all the essential oils by direct method. Both
the fabrics when treated by direct and resin cross-linking method were having smooth to
medium texture whereas the samples of microencapsulation and combination method had
medium texture. Minor drop in whiteness index value of both the fabrics treated by direct
followed by microencapsulation and combination method was observed. But in case of fabric
treated by resin cross122 linking method drastic decrease in whiteness value was observed in
both fabrics. Both the fabrics treated with geranium and peppermint oil showed minor drop in
whiteness as compared to untreated control as indicated by whiteness index values whereas
more difference in whiteness was in the samples treated with lime and palmarosa oil.
It is thus concluded that best microcapsules were formed when essential oils were
taken in smaller quantities as compared to wall material. Medium sized microcapsules

112
showed best wash durability as compared to larger ones. High temperature led to rupturing of
wall hence increased the capsule size which resulted in decreased wash durability. Higher
proportion of microcapsule gel resulted in maximum deposition of microcapsules on both the
fabrics whereas, higher proportion of softener inhibits the microcapsules deposition. Aroma
durability of treatment in terms of retention and intensity was found to stay for longer
duration in combination followed by microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and direct
method. Texture of both the fabrics was least affected when essential oil treatment was given
by direct method followed by resin cross-linking, combination and microencapsulation. The
properties of fabrics were affected with treatment but till the acceptable level.
Recommendations
 The ratio of essential oil, gum acacia and gelatin 1:4:4 is recommended for preparation of
geranium and 1:2:4 for lime, palmarosa and peppermint oil microcapsules.
 Preparation of microcapsule gel: softener: binder (50:3:5) is recommended for application
of microcapsules on both the fabrics using all the four essential oils.
 Aroma treatment can be given as per aroma durability requirement of end product.
o Microencapsulation method adds stiffness to the treated fabrics hence not require any
stiffening agent.
o Different aroma products can be developed like under garments, socks, night wear,
shirts and kurtis giving treatment through microencapsulation and combination
methods as aroma durability lasted upto 25 wash cycles.
o By direct method of treatment aroma can be incorporated in the filling and cases of
pillows, cushions, sofas, bed mattress and soft toys which required no washing.
o Use of resin cross-linking method is recommended for those products where crease
recovery is of much more importance.
o By resin cross-linking method fragrance can be incorporated in the products where
less or minimum washing is required i.e. in curtains, wall hangings and silk ties etc.
 It is recommended that treatment variables optimized for woven fabrics can be used for
knitted fabrics or vice-versa.
 Treatment conditions of pad-dry-cure process optimized for microencapsulation treatment
method can be used for other treatment methods.
 Aroma treatment will add value to the cotton therefore this will increase its consumption
as well as export.

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v
 ANNEXURE - 1
Preferential Choice Index for Selection of Essential Oils for Aroma Treatment
General Information
1. Name of Respondent :
2. Education : Graduate
Postgraduate
Ph.D.
3. Designation :
Specific Information
a. Pleasantness of smell
Please give your order of preference for the oil on the basis of pleasantness of smell
S. No. Essential oils Pleasantness of smell
Most preferred Preferred Moderately Less preferred Not preferred
(5) (4) preferred (3) (2) (1)
1. Basil
2. Chamomile
3. Eucalyptus
4. Geranium
5. Lavender
6. Lemongrass
7. Lime
8. Palmarosa
9. Peppermint
10. Pine
11. Rosemary
12. Sage
13. Ylang-ylang

b. Therapeutic effect
Please give your order of preference for the oil on the basis of therapeutic effects
S. No. Essential Therapeutic effect Preference
oils
Most Preferred Moderately Less Not preferred
preferred (4) preferred (3) preferred (2) (1)
(5)
1. Basil Cooling up of skin, good for
stomach, relaxing muscles,
relieves mental fatigue,
improve memory and curing
hypertension
2. Chamomile Relieve restlessness,
facilitating menses, sleep
disorder and tension, healing
and calming properties
3. Eucalyptus Antibacterial, antiviral,
prevent respiratory infections,
improve concentration,
relieve muscle and joint pain
4. Geranium Soothing, refreshing, relaxing,
sedative antidepressant,
antihaemorrhagic, antiseptic,
deodorant, diuretic,
fungicidal, haemostatic,
stimulant, tonic, vulnerary,
mood-lifting, balancing and
eases nervous tensions
5. Lavender Cooling up of skin, reduce
nervous problem and acne
scaring, relaxing and
balancing effect, reduce
distrustfulness and irritability

I
6. Lemongrass Stomach aches,
diahorrea, depression,
insomnia, flatulence and
sciatica
7. Lime Healing, refreshing, relieve
from depression, antiseptic,
antiviral, astringent,
bactericidal, disinfectant,
haemostatic, restorative and
tonic
8. Palmarosa Refreshing, calming, uplifting
effect, relieve from stress-
related problems and
nervousness, antiseptic,
antiviral, bactericide,
digestive and hydrating
9. Peppermint Relieve mental fatigue and
depression, refreshing,
improving concentration,
helps for apathy, shock,
headache, migraine, nervous
stress, vertigo and faintness,
relieve skin irritation and
itchiness, cooling effect,
treating the respiratory tract,
muscular aches and pains
10. Pine Relieve mental and physical
fatigue, reduce nervous
problem, antimicrobial,
antirheumatic, antiseptic,
antiviral, bactericidal,
deodorant, diuretic,
hypertensive, insecticidal and
restorative
11. Rosemary Effective for mental fatigue,
circulation problems, pain
relief, antiseptic,
antibacterial, antifungal,
promoting appetite, good for
stomach, improve memory
12. Sage oil Useful for menstrual
problems, digestive,
stimulates the lymphatic
system, laxative, relieve from
grief and depression and
coping with despair
13. Ylang-ylang Relaxing, euphoric, sedative,
calming, soothing, balancing,
relieve from depression,
insomnia, ease stress and fear,
reduce high blood pressure
and useful for intestinal
infections

II
 ANNEXURE - II
Evaluation Performa for Retention of Aroma in Treated Fabrics after Washing, Abrasion, Ironing and Sun-drying
General Information
1. Name of Respondent :
2. Education : Graduate
Postgraduate
Ph.D.
3. Designation :
(a) Responses for retention of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics after washing
Please give responses for retention of aroma in ‘Yes’ and ‘No’
Treatment Washing Retention of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics
Methods cycles Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted
Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No
0
5
10
Microencapsulation 15
20
25
30
5
10
15
Direct
20
25
30
5
10
15
Resin cross-linking
20
25
30
5
10
15
Combination 20
25
30
0 - Oil treated control sample (unwashed)

III
 (b) Retention of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics after abrasion
Please give responses for retention of aroma in ‘Yes’ and ‘No’

Treatment methods Abrasion Retention of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics

cycles Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted
Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No
0
5
Microencapsulation
10
15
0
5
Direct
10
15
0
5
Resin cross-linking
10
15
0
5
Combination
10
15
0 - Oil treated control sample (without abrasion)

IV
 (c) Retention of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics after ironing
Please give responses for retention of aroma in ‘Yes’ and ‘No’
Treatment methods Iron Retention of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics
application Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted
Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No
0
1
Microencapsulation
5
10
0
1
Direct
5
10
0
1
Resin cross-linking
5
10
0
1
Combination
5
10
0 - Oil treated control sample (without ironing), Ironing temperature - 120°C

V
(d) Retention of Aroma in essential oils treated fabrics after sun-drying
Please give responses for retention of aroma in “Yes” and “No”
Treatment methods Sun-drying hours Retention of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics
Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven Knitted
Woven Knitted Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No
0 0
1 2
Microencapsulation
2 3
3 4
0 0
1 2
Direct
2 3
3 4
0 0
1 2
Resin cross-linking
2 3
3 4
0 0
1 2
Combination
2 3
3 4
0 - Oil treated control sample (without sun-drying), woven fabric was dried for - 1, 2 and 3 hours and knitted fabric was dried for - 2, 3 and 4 hours

VI
 ANNEXURE - III
Evaluation Performa for Intensity of Aroma in Treated Fabrics after Washing, Abrasion, Ironing and Sun-drying
General Information
1. Name of Respondent :
2. Education : Graduate
Postgraduate
Ph.D.
3. Designation :
(a) Rank order for intensity of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics after washing
Please give rank order on the basis of Intensity of smell:
(i) 5- Very strong 4- Strong 3- Moderate 2- Mild 1- Faint

Treatment methods Washing cycles Intensity of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics
Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven knitted Woven Knitted
0
5
10
Microencapsulation 15
20
25
30
0
5
Direct 10
15
20
25
30
0
5
10
Resin cross-linking 15
20
25
30
0
5
10
Combination 15
20
25
30
0 - oil treated control sample (unwashed)

VII
(b) Rank order for intensity of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics after abrasion
(i) 5- Very strong 4- Strong 3- Moderate 2- Mild 1- Faint

Treatment methods Abrasion Intensity of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics

Cycles Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Woven Knitted Woven knitted Woven knitted Woven knitted
0
10
Microencapsulation 50
100
0
10
Direct 50
100
0
10
Resin cross-linking 50
100
0
10
Combination 50
100
0 - treated control sample (unabraded)

VIII
 (c) Rank order for intensity of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics after ironing
(i) 5- Very strong 4- Strong 3- Moderate 2- Mild 1- Faint

Treatment methods Iron application Intensity of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics
Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Woven Knitted Woven Knitted Woven knitted Woven Knitted
0
1
Microencapsulation
5
10
0
1
Direct
5
10
0
1
Resin cross-linking
5
10
0
1
Combination
5
10
0- Oil treated control sample (without ironing), Ironing temperature- 120°C

IX
(d) Rank order for intensity of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics after sun-drying
(i) 5- Very strong 4- Strong 3- Moderate 2- Mild 1- Faint

Treatment methods sun-drying hours Intensity of aroma in essential oils treated fabrics
Geranium Lime Palmarosa Peppermint
Woven knitted Woven Knitted Woven knitted Woven knitted Woven Knitted
0 0
1 2
Microencapsulation
2 3
3 4
0 0
1 2
Direct
2 3
3 4
0 0
1 2
Resin cross-linking
2 3
3 4
0 0
1 2
Combination
2 3
3 4
0- oil treated control sample (without sun-drying), woven fabric was dried for – 1, 2 and 3 hours and knitted fabric was dried for – 2, 3 and 4 hours

X
 ANNEXURE - IV

Evaluation Performa for Assessment of Texture of Essential Oils Treated Fabrics

General Information

1. Name of Respondent :
2. Education : Graduate
Postgraduate
Ph.D.
3. Designation :
a.) Rank order for the texture of treated fabrics
Please give rank order on the basis of texture: 5- Very smooth 4- Smooth 3- Medium 2- Rough 1- Very rough
Texture of essential oils treated fabrics
Treatment methods Geranium Palmarosa Peppermint Lime
Woven Knitted woven knitted woven knitted woven Knitted

Microencapsulation
Direct
Resin cross-linking
Combination
woven
Control untreated sample
knitted

XI
 ANNEXURE – V

Table 1: Optimization of MLR of padding bath for direct method

Essential oils MLR Parameters
Fabrics Bending length (cm) Average Flexural Crease recovery Average
bending length rigidity (degree) crease recovery Rank
Warp Weft (cm) (mg-cm) Warp Weft (degree)
Woven 3.38 2.62 2.98 28.78 77.69 75.96 76.82 I
1:20
Knitted 2.59 1.78 2.18 25.93 89.86 86.91 88.38 I
Woven 3.46 2.64 3.00 28.98 77.43 75.57 76.5 II
Geranium 1:30
Knitted 2.63 1.80 2.21 26.18 89.72 86.69 88.20 II
Woven 3.49 2.67 3.08 29.16 77.23 75.30 76.28 III
1:40
Knitted 2.71 1.81 2.26 26.32 89.41 86.53 77.97 III
Woven 3.38 2.63 3.00 28.94 77.46 75.58 76.52 I
1:20
Knitted 2.61 1.79 2.2 26.18 89.61 86.75 88.18 I
Woven 3.42 2.67 3.04 29.25 77.20 75.26 76.23 II
Lime 1:30
Knitted 2.64 1.81 2.22 26.36 89.48 86.50 87.99 II
Woven 3.45 2.66 3.05 29.38 76.89 75.11 76.00 III
1:40
Knitted 2.64 1.86 2.25 26.52 89.13 86.23 87.68 III
Woven 3.34 2.61 2.97 28.64 77.73 75.98 76.85 I
1:20
Knitted 2.60 1.78 2.19 26.07 89.76 86.84 88.3 I
Woven 3.39 2.63 3.01 28.96 77.42 75.57 76.49 II
Palmarosa 1:30
Knitted 2.62 1.79 2.20 26.28 89.43 86.75 88.19 II
Woven 3.41 2.67 3.04 29.23 77.21 75.29 76.25 III
1:40
Knitted 2.68 1.80 2.24 26.48 89.42 86.49 87.95 III
Woven 3.35 2.62 2.98 28.81 77.66 75.96 76.81 I
1:20
Knitted 2.59 1.81 2.2 26.13 89.60 86.74 88.17 I
Woven 3.39 2.65 3.01 29.08 77.36 75.48 76.42 II
Peppermint 1:30
Knitted 2.62 1.84 2.23 26.41 89.38 86.46 87.92 II
Woven 3.46 2.67 3.06 29.27 77.02 75.10 76.06 III
1:40
Knitted 2.66 1.89 2.27 26.54 88.91 86.08 88.49 III

XII
Table 2: Optimization of treatment time of padding bath for direct method
Essential oils Treatment Parameters
time (min.) Fabrics Bending length (cm) Average bending Flexural Crease recovery (degree) Average
Warp Weft length (cm) rigidity Warp Weft crease Rank
(mg-cm) recovery
(degree)
Woven 3.43 2.69 3.06 29.46 77. 96 75.18 76.07 II
20
Knitted 2.64 1.82 2.24 26.46 89.30 86.49 87.89 II
Woven 3.38 2.65 3.01 29.18 77.26 75.47 76.36 I
Geranium 30
Knitted 2.61 1.78 2.19 25.82 89.63 86.81 88.22 I
Woven 3.50 2.72 3.11 29.76 76.41 74.94 75.67 III
40
Knitted 2.68 1.84 2.26 26.64 88.91 85.98 87.44 III
Woven 3.39 2.72 3.05 29.45 76.89 75.20 76.05 II
20
Knitted 2.61 1.82 2.21 25.87 89.24 86.43 87.83 II
Woven 3.34 2.63 2.98 29.28 77.48 75.29 76.38 I
Lime 30
Knitted 2.55 1.74 2.14 25.41 90.41 87.55 88.98 I
Woven 3.46 2.79 3.12 29.74 76.28 74.74 75.51 III
40
Knitted 2.67 1.87 2.27 26.61 89.73 85.87 87.3 III
Woven 3.41 2.70 3.05 29.25 76.88 75.26 76.07 II
20
Knitted 2.59 1.81 2.20 25.84 89.41 86.52 87.96 II
Woven 3.36 2.64 3.00 28.99 77.45 75.52 76.48 I
Palmarosa 30
Knitted 2.54 1.76 2.15 25.55 90.24 87.39 88.81 I
Woven 3.49 2.73 3.11 29.67 76.39 74.94 75.66 III
40
Knitted 2.63 1.86 2.24 26.38 89.32 86.49 87.90 III
Woven 3.43 2.71 3.07 29.49 76.69 74.87 75.78 II
20
Knitted 2.62 1.79 2.20 26.07 89.54 86.70 88.12 II
Woven 3.38 2.69 3.03 29.34 77.18 75.39 76.28 I
Peppermint 30
Knitted 2.57 1.77 2.17 25.79 89.89 87.51 88.7 I
Woven 3.48 2.76 3.12 29.68 76.28 74.71 75.49 III
40
Knitted 2.68 1.85 2.26 26.58 88.92 86.11 87.51 III

XIII
Table 3: Optimization of drying temperature of treated fabrics for direct method
Drying Parameters
Essential oils temperature Fabrics Bending length (cm) Average bending Flexural Crease recovery (degree) Average crease
(ºC) Warp Weft length (cm) rigidity Warp Weft recovery (degree) Rank
(mg-cm)
Woven 3.29 2.57 2.93 28.51 78.18 75.92 77.05 II
70 Knitted 2.58 1.72 2.15 25.58 90.22 87.35 88.78 II
Woven 3.26 2.53 2.89 28.21 78.49 76.31 77.4 I
80 Knitted 2.54 1.71 2.12 25.29 90.69 87.74 89.21 I
Geranium
Woven 3.34 2.60 2.97 28.86 77.72 75.53 76.62 III
90 Knitted 2.61 1.75 2.18 25.78 89.86 86.92 88.39 III
Woven 3.36 2.63 2.99 28.97 77.61 75.24 76.42 IV
100 Knitted 2.63 1.76 2.19 26.11 89.63 86.81 88.22 IV
Woven 3.39 2.60 2.99 29.03 77.63 75.26 76.44 II
70 Knitted 2.62 1.78 2.20 26.36 89.56 86.78 88.17 II
Woven 3.36 2.59 2.97 28.85 77.79 75.65 76.72 I
80 Knitted 2.66 1.79 2.22 26.36 89.65 86.62 88.13 III
Lime
Woven 3.40 2.62 3.02 29.26 77.48 75.12 76.3 III
90 Knitted 2.63 1.75 2.19 26.18 89.71 86.81 88.26 I
Woven 3.45 2.66 3.05 29.46 76.89 75.21 76.05 IV
100 Knitted 2.60 1.85 2.26 26.54 88.12 86.18 87.15 IV
Woven 3.39 2.64 3.01 28.96 77.42 75.57 76.49 III
70 Knitted 2.65 1.82 2.23 26.41 89.37 86.46 87.91 III
Woven 3.33 2.59 2.96 28.78 77.81 75.65 76.73 II
80 Knitted 2.62 1.78 2.20 26.28 8.609 86.74 88.17 II
Palmarosa
Woven 3.31 2.59 2.95 28.64 77.97 75.86 76.91 I
90 Knitted 2.59 1.74 2.16 25.65 90.11 87.24 88.67 I
Woven 3.43 2.68 3.05 29.39 76.89 75.18 76.03 IV
100 Knitted 2.70 1.84 2.27 26.68 88.92 86.11 87.51 IV
Woven 3.34 2.61 2.97 28.91 77.67 75.59 76.63 II
70 Knitted 2.60 1.72 2.16 25.68 90.11 87.28 88.69 II
Woven 3.31 2.60 2.95 28.71 77.99 75.86 76.92 I
80 Knitted 2.59 1.74 2.16 25.53 90.16 87.29 88.72 I
Peppermint
Woven 3.39 2.63 3.01 29.05 77.51 75.56 76.53 III
90 Knitted 2.63 1.79 2.21 26.19 89.62 86.68 88.15 III
Woven 3.41 2.67 3.04 29.38 77.42 75.29 76.34 IV
100 Knitted 2.65 1.83 2.24 26.49 89.21 86.43 87.82 IV

XIV
Table 4: Optimization of drying time of treated fabrics for direct method
Parameters
Drying Flexural Crease recovery Average
Essential oils Bending length (cm) Average bending Rank
time (min.) Fabrics rigidity (degree) crease recovery
length (cm)
Warp Weft (mg-cm) Warp Weft (degree)
Woven 3.30 2.58 2.94 28.58 78.02 75.93 76.97 I
2
Knitted 2.54 1.70 2.14 25.32 90.42 87.59 88.99 I
Woven 3.35 2.59 2.97 28.86 77.79 75.65 76.72 II
3
Knitted 2.58 1.73 2.15 25.60 90.22 87.40 88.81 II
Geranium
Woven 3.37 2.63 3.00 28.99 77.43 75.52 76.47 III
4
Knitted 2.62 1.78 2.20 26.42 89.60 86.61 88.10 III
Woven 3.41 2.68 3.04 29.26 77.18 75.20 76.19 IV
5
Knitted 2.65 1.81 2.23 26.47 89.37 86.46 87.91 IV
Woven 3.35 2.60 2.97 28.89 77.79 75.65 76.72 I
2
Knitted 2.63 1.64 2.13 25.16 90.51 87.74 89.13 I
Woven 3.38 2.63 3.00 29.21 77.45 75.54 76.49 II
3
Knitted 2.67 1.67 2.17 25.41 89.84 87.53 88.68 II
Lime
Woven 3.40 2.68 3.04 29.46 77.45 75.29 76.37 III
4
Knitted 2.70 1.68 2.19 25.81 89.63 86.81 88.22 III
Woven 3.45 2.71 3.08 29.58 76.94 75.11 76.02 IV
5
Knitted 2.74 1.73 2.23 26.19 89.34 86.46 87.90 IV
Woven 3.31 2.60 2.95 28.75 77.99 75.85 76.92 I
2
Knitted 2.62 1.75 2.18 25.64 89.84 86.97 88.40 II
Woven 3.34 2.61 2.97 28.91 77.77 75.65 76.71 II
3
Knitted 2.58 1.67 2.12 25.14 90.68 87.84 89.25 I
Palmarosa
Woven 3.39 2.64 3.01 29.18 77.42 75.53 77.47 III
4
Knitted 2.64 1.78 2.21 25.89 89.62 86.68 88.15 III
Woven 3.43 2.68 3.05 29.45 76.89 75.20 76.05 IV
5
Knitted 2.70 1.82 2.26 26.44 88.12 86.21 87.16 IV
Woven 3.32 2.63 2.97 28.73 77.79 7564 76.72 I
2
Knitted 2.64 1.62 2.13 25.39 90.54 87.73 88.13 II
Woven 3.34 2.65 2.99 28.97 77.61 75.26 76.43 II
3
Knitted 2.63 1.61 2.12 25.26 90.68 87.78 89.23 I
Peppermint
Woven 3.35 2.64 3.00 29.08 77.45 75.51 76.48 III
4
Knitted 2.69 1.65 2.17 25.62 89.89 87.51 88.70 III
Woven 3.39 2.69 3.04 29.36 77.18 75.20 76.19 IV
5
Knitted 2.71 1.72 2.21 25.93 89.62 86.68 88.15 IV

XV
Table 5: Optimization of curing temperature of treated fabrics for direct method
Essential oils Curing Parameters
temperature Fabrics Bending length (cm) Average bending Flexural Crease recovery (degree) Average crease
(ºC) Warp Weft length (cm) rigidity Warp Weft recovery (degree) Rank
(mg-cm)
Woven 3.29 2.57 2.93 28.46 78.02 78.18 77.05 II
110
Knitted 2.51 1.72 2.11 25.24 90.42 90.87 89.95 II
Woven 3.26 2.57 2.91 28.13 77.79 78.46 77.32 I
120
Knitted 2.45 1.71 2.08 25.03 90.22 91.04 89.58 I
Geranium
Woven 3.31 2.59 2.95 28.80 77.43 77.80 76.72 III
130
Knitted 2.50 1.76 2.13 25.59 89.60 90.51 89.12 III
Woven 3.35 2.63 2.99 29.21 77.18 77.48 76.37 IV
140
Knitted 2.51 1.78 2.14 25.68 89.37 90.42 88.98 IV
Woven 3.30 2.51 2.90 28.25 77.45 76.34 77.48 I
110
Knitted 2.53 1.74 2.13 25.49 90.51 87.74 89.12 II
Woven 3.33 2.59 2.96 28.84 77.79 75.54 76.65 II
120
Knitted 2.46 1.71 2.08 24.94 89.84 88.01 89.57 I
Lime
Woven 3.36 2.58 2.97 29.28 77.45 75.26 76.42 III
130
Knitted 2.54 1.76 2.15 25.65 89.63 87.35 88.78 III
Woven 3.41 2.63 3.02 29.56 76.94 75.12 76.30 IV
140
Knitted 2.59 1.80 2.19 25.91 89.34 86.81 88.22 IV
Woven 3.28 2.57 2.92 28.28 77.99 78.34 77.23 II
110
Knitted 2.48 1.72 2.10 25.10 90.68 90.98 84.52 II
Woven 3.24 2.53 2.88 27.84 77.77 78.72 77.63 I
120
Knitted 2.44 1.69 2.06 25.78 89.84 91.14 89.69 I
Palmarosa
Woven 3.31 2.56 2.93 28.51 77.42 78.18 77.04 III
130
Knitted 2.49 1.73 2.11 25.39 89.62 90.87 89.40 III
Woven 3.36 2.57 2.96 28.90 76.89 77.76 76.65 IV
140
Knitted 2.50 1.80 2.15 25.65 88.12 90.25 88.85 IV
Woven 3.31 2.59 2.95 28.75 77.79 75.65 76.73 II
110
Knitted 2.50 1.72 2.11 25.23 90.68 87.91 89.39 II
Woven 3.28 2.54 2.91 28.17 77.61 76.19 77.32 I
120
Knitted 2.46 1.67 2.06 24.62 90.54 88.24 89.69 I
Peppermint
Woven 3.35 2.57 2.96 28.96 77.45 75.54 76.65 III
130
Knitted 2.54 1.71 2.12 25.44 89.89 87.74 89.21 III
Woven 3.37 2.58 2.97 29.39 77.18 75.31 76.63 IV
140
Knitted 2.59 1.76 2.17 25.89 89.62 87.51 88.70 IV

XVI
Table 6: Optimization of curing time of treated fabrics for direct method
Essential oils Curing Parameters
time (sec.) Fabrics Bending length (cm) Average bending Flexural rigidity Crease recovery (degree) Average crease
Warp Weft length (cm) (mg-cm) Warp Weft recovery (degree) Rank
30 Woven 3.32 2.58 2.95 28.86 77.80 75.64 76.72 II
Knitted 2.56 1.75 2.15 25.65 90.22 87.35 88.78 II
60 Woven 3.30 2.54 2.92 28.54 78.34 76.13 77.23 I
Knitted 2.53 1.72 2.12 25.44 90.69 87.74 89.21 I
Geranium
90 Woven 3.36 2.57 2.96 28.94 77.76 75.54 76.65 III
Knitted 2.57 1.79 2.18 25.74 89.84 86.96 88.40 III
120 Woven 3.40 2.58 2.99 29.21 77.48 75.27 76.37 IV
Knitted 2.61 1.83 2.22 26.38 89.65 86.60 88.12 IV
Woven 3.26 2.48 2.87 27.84 78.92 76.48 77.70 I
30 Knitted 2.43 1.63 2.03 24.46 91.39 88.46 89.92 I
Woven 3.34 2.54 2.94 28.61 77.86 75.78 76.82 II
60 Knitted 2.51 1.71 2.11 25.20 90.81 87.91 89.36 II
Lime
Woven 3.39 2.57 2.98 29.39 77.48 75.29 76.38 III
90 Knitted 2.57 1.75 2.16 25.78 90.38 87.46 88.92 III
Woven 3.48 2.66 3.07 29.49 76.81 74.91 75.86 IV
120 Knitted 2.63 1.81 2.22 26.04 89.65 86.54 88.09 IV
30 Woven 3.23 2.51 2.87 27.89 78.92 76.49 77.70 I
Knitted 2.51 1.70 2.10 25.20 90.83 87.70 89.26 I
60 Woven 3.28 2.56 2.92 28.46 78.34 76.11 77.22 II
Knitted 2.53 1.75 2.14 25.36 90.41 87.56 88.97 II
Palmarosa
90 Woven 3.34 2.59 2.96 28.98 77.75 75.54 76.64 III
Knitted 2.58 1.79 2.18 25.71 89.84 86.91 88.37 III
120 Woven 3.40 2.65 3.02 29.28 77.48 75.13 76.30 IV
Knitted 2.63 1.85 2.24 26.46 89.31 86.42 87.86 IV
30 Woven 3.29 2.53 2.91 27.99 78.65 76.24 77.44 I
Knitted 2.53 1.74 2.13 25.19 90.56 87.47 89.01 II
60 Woven 3.35 2.56 2.95 28.80 77.80 75.64 76.72 II
Knitted 2.48 1.69 2.08 25.04 91.04 88.18 89.61 I
Peppermint
90 Woven 3.38 2.58 2.98 29.34 77.48 75.26 76.37 III
Knitted 2.57 1.78 2.17 25.79 89.89 87.72 88.80 III
120 Woven 3.43 2.64 3.03 29.49 77.12 75.01 76.06 IV
Knitted 2.67 1.85 2.26 26.58 88.12 86.20 87.16 IV

XVII
Table 7: Optimization of MLR of padding bath for resin cross-linking method
Parameters
Average Flexural Crease recovery Average
Essential oils MLR Bending length (cm) Rank
Fabrics bending length rigidity (degree) crease recovery
Warp Weft (cm) (mg-cm) Warp Weft (degree)
Woven 3.83 3.39 3.61 26.94 92.54 90.36 91.45 I
1:20
Knitted 3.41 2.31 2.86 23.64 104.88 99.93 102.45 I
Woven 4.19 3.42 3.80 27.30 92.36 90.25 91.30 II
Geranium 1:30
Knitted 3.48 2.46 2.97 23.89 104.79 99.71 102.25 II
Woven 4.28 3.48 3.88 27.73 92.08 89.86 90.97 III
1:40
Knitted 3.65 2.50 3.07 24.29 104.63 99.52 102.07 III
Woven 4.05 3.28 3.66 27.07 92.39 90.38 91.38 I
1:20
Knitted 3.41 2.43 2.92 23.64 104.84 99.78 102.31 I
Woven 4.20 3.36 3.78 27.46 92.10 89.94 91.02 II
Lime 1:30
Knitted 3.47 2.58 3.02 23.92 104.68 99.61 102.14 II
Woven 4.37 3.43 3.90 27.82 91.76 89.43 90.59 III
1:40
Knitted 3.59 2.71 3.15 24.35 104.14 98.87 101.50 III
Woven 4.23 3.29 3.75 26.80 92.48 90.38 91.43 I
1:20
Knitted 3.46 2.36 2.91 23.59 104.89 99.87 102.38 I
Woven 4.32 3.41 3.86 27.49 92.19 90.11 91.15 II
Palmarosa 1:30
Knitted 3.54 2.42 2.98 23.74 104.74 99.70 102.22 II
Woven 4.40 3.47 3.93 27.96 91.96 89.69 90.32 III
1:40
Knitted 3.61 2.47 3.04 24.16 104.61 99.59 102.10 III
Woven 3.99 3.38 3.68 27.10 92.29 90.38 91.33 I
1:20
Knitted 3.40 2.49 2.94 23.66 104.78 99.71 102.24 I
Woven 4.16 3.41 3.78 27.48 92.12 90.04 91.08 II
Peppermint 1:30
Knitted 3.49 2.62 3.05 24.15 104.56 99.43 101.99 II
Woven 4.32 3.46 3.89 27.75 91.87 89.69 90.78 III
1:40
Knitted 3.63 3.71 3.14 24.34 104.36 99.09 101.72 III

XVIII
Table 8: Optimization of treatment time of padding bath for resin cross-linking method
Essential oils Treatment Parameters
Time (min.) Fabrics Bending length (cm) Average bending Flexural Crease recovery Average crease
length (cm) rigidity (degree) recovery (degree) Rank
Warp Weft (mg-cm) Warp Weft
Woven 4.69 3.41 4.05 27.74 91.82 89.68 90.75 II
20
Knitted 3.78 2.33 3.06 24.41 104.41 99.43 101.92 II
Woven 4.62 3.36 3.99 27.59 92.24 89.86 91.05 I
Geranium 30
Knitted 3.73 2.29 3.00 24.15 104.64 99.52 102.08 I
Woven 4.72 3.46 4.09 27.92 91.74 89.46 90.60 III
40
Knitted 3.81 2.35 3.08 24.72 104.24 99.24 101.74 III
Woven 4.73 3.57 4.15 27.9 91.38 89.10 90.24 II
20
Knitted 3.84 2.38 3.11 24.48 104.10 99.11 101.60 II
Woven 4.62 3.48 4.05 27.43 91.82 89.65 90.73 I
Lime 30
Knitted 3.76 2.41 3.08 24.26 104.29 99.27 102.78 I
Woven 4.74 3.58 4.16 28.21 91.34 89.04 90.19 III
40
Knitted 3.85 2.46 3.15 24.93 103.86 98.75 101.30 III
Woven 4.68 3.46 4.07 27.69 91.79 89.58 90.68 II
20
Knitted 3.74 2.36 3.05 24.38 104.43 99.47 101.95 II
Woven 4.57 3.39 3.98 27.36 92.36 89.94 91.15 I
Palmarosa 30
Knitted 3.69 2.30 2.97 24.16 104.75 99.58 102.16 I
Woven 4.76 3.52 4.14 27.78 91.43 89.23 90.33 III
40
Knitted 3.80 2.34 3.07 24.89 104.32 99.29 101.80 III
Woven 4.60 3.51 4.05 27.65 91.82 89.61 90.71 II
20
Knitted 3.78 2.39 3.08 24.44 104.25 99.24 101.74 II
Woven 4.53 3.34 3.93 27.46 92.38 90.11 91.24 I
Peppermint 30
Knitted 3.72 2.39 3.05 24.10 104.47 99.41 101.94 I
Woven 4.67 3.55 4.11 27.83 91.62 89.34 90.48 III
40 Knitted 3.80 2.46 3.13 24.86 104.04 99.03 101.53 III

XIX
Table 9: Optimization of drying temperature of treated fabrics for resin cross-linking method
Essential oils Drying Parameters
temperature Fabrics Bending length (cm) Average bending Flexural rigidity Crease recovery Average crease
(ºC) length (cm) (mg-cm) (degree) recovery Rank
Warp Weft Warp Weft (degree)
Woven 4.39 3.47 3.93 27.39 92.23 90.13 91.18 II
70
Knitted 3.36 2.48 2.92 23.68 104.86 99.78 102.32 II
Woven 4.31 3.36 3.83 26.99 92.48 90.45 91.46 I
80
Knitted 3.22 2.41 2.81 23.46 104.99 99.47 102.48 I
Geranium
Woven 4.46 3.50 3.98 27.56 92.12 89.94 91.03 III
90
Knitted 3.47 2.54 3.00 23.74 104.68 99.64 102.16 III
Woven 4.57 3.59 4.08 27.96 91.69 89.48 90.58 IV
100
Knitted 3.58 2.62 3.10 23.98 104.61 99.60 102.10 IV
Woven 4.39 3.37 3.88 27.43 92.36 90.31 91.33 II
70
Knitted 3.37 2.41 2.89 23.82 104.87 99.83 102.35 II
Woven 4.32 3.31 3.81 26.84 92.57 90.54 91.55 I
80
Knitted 3.45 2.48 2.96 23.94 104.68 99.78 102.23 III
Lime
Woven 4.48 3.45 3.96 27.54 92.12 90.04 91.08 III
90
Knitted 3.28 2.32 2.80 23.46 105.14 100.04 102.59 I
Woven 4.57 3.50 4.03 27.89 91.96 89.68 90.82 IV
100
Knitted 3.58 2.57 3.07 24.49 104.47 98.37 101.92 IV
Woven 4.40 3.46 3.93 27.46 92.23 90.21 91.22 II
70
Knitted 3.34 2.39 2.86 23.54 104.87 99.91 102.39 II
Woven 4.31 3.41 3.86 27.18 92.42 90.13 91.36 III
80
Knitted 3.18 2.26 2.72 23.32 105.14 100.08 102.61 I
Palmarosa
Woven 4.47 3.53 4.00 27.64 92.10 89.89 90.99 I
90
Knitted 3.52 2.47 2.99 23.91 104.71 99.62 102.16 III
Woven 4.59 3.57 4.08 27.98 91.69 89.46 90.57 IV
100
Knitted 3.57 2.53 3.05 24.35 104.54 99.41 101.97 IV
Woven 4.29 3.38 3.83 26.96 92.49 90.98 91..48 II
70
Knitted 3.32 2.46 2.89 23.59 104.87 99.81 102.34 II
Woven 4.26 3.29 3.77 26.79 92.64 90.57 91.60 I
80
Knitted 3.46 2.49 2.97 23.91 104.73 99.73 102.23 III
Peppermint
Woven 4.44 3.46 3.95 27.40 92.26 90.11 91.18 III
90
Knitted 3.21 2.39 2.80 23.38 105.11 100.02 102.56 I
Woven 4.56 3.53 4.04 27.96 91.87 89.69 90.78 IV
100
Knitted 3.49 2.58 3.03 24.29 104.65 99.61 102.13 IV

XX
Table 10: Optimization of drying time of treated fabrics for resin cross-linking method
Essential oils Drying Parameters
time (min.) Fabrics Bending length (cm) Average bending Flexural rigidity Crease recovery Average crease
length (cm) (mg-cm) (degree) recovery Rank
Warp Weft Warp Weft (degree)
Woven 4.71 3.56 4.13 27.98 91.51 89.49 90.50 IV
2
Knitted 3.64 2.61 3.12 24.48 104.35 99.18 101.76 IV
Woven 4.58 3.51 4,04 27.82 91.87 89.64 90.75 III
3
Knitted 3.55 2.54 3.07 24.29 104.44 99.23 101.83 III
Geranium
Woven 4.46 3.42 3.94 27.46 92.25 90.08 91.16 II
4
Knitted 3.51 2.50 3.00 23.74 104.63 99.68 102.15 II
Woven 4.39 3.38 3.88 26.78 92.36 90.41 91.38 I
5
Knitted 3.42 2.34 2.87 23.47 104.82 99.97 102.39 I
Woven 4.68 3.58 4.13 27.96 91.51 89.49 90.50 IV
2
Knitted 3.54 2.69 3.11 24.43 104.38 99.27 101.82 IV
Woven 4.62 3.52 4.07 27.69 91.73 89.56 90.64 III
3
Knitted 3.48 2.57 3.02 23.98 104.56 99.68 102.12 III
Lime
Woven 4.54 3.36 3.95 27.45 92.26 90.01 91.13 II
4
Knitted 3.39 2.45 2.92 23.70 104.71 99.88 102.29 II
Woven 4.34 3.29 3.81 26.72 92.57 90.44 91.50 I
5
Knitted 3.36 2.36 2.86 23.36 104.88 100.02 102.45 I
Woven 4.66 3.64 4.15 28.34 91.48 89.10 90.29 IV
2
Knitted 3.52 2.67 3.09 24.36 104.33 99.10 101.71 IV
Woven 4.59 3.59 4.09 27.85 91.67 89.43 90.55 III
3
Knitted 3.45 2.60 3.02 23.98 104.58 99.65 102.11 III
Palmarosa
Woven 4.42 3.42 3.92 27.14 92.23 90.18 91.20 I
4
Knitted 3.42 2.51 2.96 23.89 104.64 99.78 102.21 II
Woven 4.47 3.50 3.98 27.52 92.10 89.94 91.02 II
5
Knitted 3.34 2.45 2.89 23.56 104.78 99.91 102.34 I
Woven 4.65 3.66 4.15 28.10 91.46 89.36 90.41 IV
2
Knitted 3.61 2.68 3.14 24.52 104.31 99.12 101.71 IV
Woven 4.58 3.58 4.08 27.78 91.67 89.48 90.57 III
3
Knitted 3.54 2.57 3.05 24.35 104.56 99.40 101.98 III
Peppermint
Woven 4.43 3.36 3.89 26.84 92.32 90.29 91..30 I
4
Knitted 3.42 2.43 2.92 23.68 104.86 99.87 102.36 I
Woven 4.53 3.44 3.98 27.44 92.10 89.94 91.02 II
5
Knitted 3.50 2.49 2.99 23.86 104.71 99.62 102.16 II

XXI
Table 11: Optimization of curing temperature of treated fabrics for resin cross-linking method
Essential oils Curing Parameters
temperature Fabrics Bending length (cm) Average bending Flexural Crease recovery Average crease
(ºC) length (cm) rigidity (degree) recovery (degree) Rank
Warp Weft (mg-cm) Warp Weft
Woven 4.69 3.56 4.12 27.84 91.57 84.28 90.42 IV
110
Knitted 3.64 2.52 3.08 24.32 104.38 99.24 101.81 IV
Woven 4.62 3.49 4.05 27.60 91.72 89.60 90.66 III
120
Knitted 3.59 2.47 3.03 24.09 104.51 99.61 102.06 III
Geranium
Woven 4.58 3.44 4.01 21.43 92.09 89.91 91.00 II
130
Knitted 3.53 2.34 2.93 23.86 104.73 99.89 102.31 II
Woven 4.51 3.36 3.43 26.99 92.23 90.12 91.17 I
140
Knitted 3.42 2.27 2.84 23.44 104.91 99.97 102.44 I
Woven 4.65 3.59 4.12 27.72 91.59 89.31 90.45 IV
110
Knitted 3.59 2.57 3.08 24.41 104.34 99.21 101.77 IV
Woven 4.60 3.53 4.06 27.59 91.94 89.54 90.74 III
120
Knitted 3.56 2.47 3.01 24.10 104.60 99.64 102.12 III
Lime
Woven 4.52 3.46 3.99 27.17 92.18 89.86 91.02 II
130
Knitted 3.40 2.34 2.87 23.59 104.93 99.98 102.45 I
Woven 4.39 3.42 3.90 26.83 92.42 90.28 91.35 I
140
Knitted 3.49 2.41 2.95 23.82 104.75 99.81 102.28 II
Woven 4.68 3.58 4.13 27.89 91.53 89.29 90.41 IV
110
Knitted 3.60 2.51 3.05 24.31 104.57 99.43 102.00 IV
Woven 4.65 3.51 4.08 27.64 91.82 89.48 90.65 III
120
Knitted 3.53 2.47 3.00 24.08 104.65 99.69 102.17 III
Palmarosa
Woven 4.48 3.39 3.93 26.89 92.26 90.18 91.22 I
130
Knitted 3.36 2.31 2.83 23.49 104.95 100.09 102.52 I
Woven 4.58 3.45 4.01 27.33 92.11 89.91 91.01 II
140
Knitted 3.45 2.38 2.91 23.82 104.88 99.40 102.39 II
Woven 4.68 3.60 4.14 27.89 91.47 89.20 90.33 IV
110
Knitted 3.51 2.51 3.01 24.18 104.61 99.62 102.11 IV
Woven 4.59 3.48 4.03 27.43 91.85 89.60 90.72 III
120
Knitted 3.46 2.44 2.95 23.91 104.72 99.79 102.25 III
Peppermint
Woven 4.47 3.42 3.94 26.80 92.24 90.08 91.16 II
130
Knitted 3.38 2.38 2.88 23.64 104.89 99.92 102.40 II
Woven 4.42 3.36 3.89 26.67 92.32 90.23 91.27 I
140
Knitted 3.29 2.27 2.78 23.24 105.23 100.18 102.70 I

XXII
Table 12: Optimization of curing time of treated fabrics for resin cross-linking method
Essential oils Curing Parameters
temperature Fabrics Bending length (cm) Average bending Flexural rigidity Crease recovery Average crease
(ºC) length (cm) (mg-cm) (degree) recovery Rank
Warp Weft Warp Weft (degree)
30 Woven 4.58 3.49 4.03 27.63 92.01 89.68 90.84 III
Knitted 3.49 2.37 2.93 23.79 104.79 99.79 102.29 II
60 Woven 4.54 3.38 3.96 26.87 92.48 90.04 91.26 I
Knitted 3.56 2.39 2.97 23.84 104.61 99.62 102.11 III
Geranium
90 Woven 4.57 3.46 4.01 27.39 92.10 89.91 91.00 II
Knitted 3.44 2.32 2.88 23.42 104.90 99.93 102.41 I
120 Woven 4.62 3.57 4.09 27.81 91.78 89.53 90.65 IV
Knitted 3.61 2.46 3.03 24.19 104.46 99.58 102.02 IV
30 Woven 4.60 3.52 4.06 27.42 91.81 89.54 90.67 III
Knitted 3.54 2.47 3.00 24.04 104.59 99.54 102.06 III
60 Woven 4.52 3.42 3.97 26.99 92.41 89.96 91.18 I
Knitted 3.48 2.43 2.95 23.80 104.74 99.72 102.23 II
Lime
90 Woven 4.57 3.47 4.02 27.16 92.89 89.84 90.86 II
Knitted 3.44 2.31 2.88 23.34 104.90 99.96 102.43 I
120 Woven 4.64 3.60 4.12 27.74 91.57 89.28 90.42 IV
Knitted 3.62 2.51 3.06 24.42 104.14 99.43 101.78 IV
30 Woven 4.58 3.54 4.06 27.62 91.74 89.54 90.64 III
Knitted 3.57 2.43 3.00 24.09 104.62 99.60 102.11 III
60 Woven 4.50 3.36 3.93 26.79 92.52 90.14 91.81 I
Knitted 3.51 2.39 2.95 23.85 104.75 99.75 102.46 II
Palmarosa
90 Woven 4.56 3.48 4.02 27.46 91.89 89.74 91.23 II
Knitted 3.42 2.31 2.86 23.45 104.94 99.99 102.25 I
120 Woven 4.64 3.62 4.13 27.89 91.51 89.27 90.39 IV
Knitted 3.60 2.49 3.04 24.28 104.28 99.54 101.91 IV
30 Woven 4.57 3.45 4.01 27.39 92.10 89.91 91.00 II
Knitted 3.56 2.39 2.97 23.84 104.61 99.62 102.11 III
60 Woven 4.54 3.38 3.96 26.87 92.48 90.04 91.26 I
Knitted 3.49 2.37 2.93 23.79 104.79 99.79 102.29 II
Peppermint
90 Woven 4.58 3.49 4.03 27.63 92.01 89.68 90.84 III
Knitted 3.44 2.32 2.88 23.42 104.90 99.93 102.41 I
120 Woven 4.62 3.57 4.09 27.81 91.78 89.53 90.65 IV
Knitted 3.61 2.46 3.03 24.19 104.46 99.58 102.02 IV

XXIII
Table 13: Optimization of MLR of padding bath for combination method
Essential MLR Parameters Crease Average crease
oils Fabrics Presence of Wash durability Bending length Average Flexural recovery recovery Rank
microcapsules (wash cycles) (cm) bending rigidity (degree) (degree)
on fabric 5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft length (cm) (mg-cm) Warp Weft
Woven Too Many      × 4.59 3.32 3.97 27.73 85.94 82.62 84.28 I
1:20
Knitted Many      × 3.72 2.19 2.95 25.16 96.68 92.93 94.80 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.62 3.37 4.01 27.84 85.83 82.56 84.19 II
Geranium 1:30
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.80 2.28 3.04 25.27 96.57 92.85 94.71 II
Woven Few   × × × × 4.71 3.42 4.06 27.91 85.70 82.45 84.07 III
1:40
Knitted Very few  × × × × × 3.83 2.37 3.10 25.31 96.43 92.71 94.57 III
Woven Too many     × × 4.61 3.28 3.94 27.56 86.10 82.79 84.44 I
1:20
Knitted Too many     × × 3.73 2.30 3.01 25.21 96.63 92.91 94.77 I
Woven Very few    × × × 4.67 3.37 4.02 27.78 85.81 82.52 84.16 II
Palmarosa 1:30
Knitted Very few   × × × × 3.61 2.23 2.92 25.15 96.74 92.98 94.86 II
Woven Few  × × × × × 4.75 3.45 4.10 27.97 85.56 82.43 83.99 III
1:40
Knitted Few  × × × × × 3.79 2.36 3.07 25.37 96.48 92.89 94.68 III
Woven Many      × 4.62 3.28 3.95 27.63 86.07 82.74 84.40 I
1:20
Knitted Many     × × 3.59 2.23 2.91 25.15 96.81 93.04 94.92 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.68 3.36 4.02 27.82 85.79 82.54 84.16 II
Peppermint 1:30
Knitted Many   × × × × 3.71 2.31 3.01 25.28 96.62 92.92 94.77 II
Woven Very few   × × × × 4.74 3.42 4.08 27.86 85.67 82.44 84.05 III
1:40
Knitted No  × × × × × 3.87 2.36 3.11 25.41 96.32 92.74 94.53 III
Woven Few      × 4.54 3.29 3.91 27.45 86.21 82.89 84.55 I
1:20
Knitted Few     × × 3.61 2.20 2.90 25.20 96.83 93.13 94.98 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.67 3.36 4.01 27.79 85.82 82.54 84.18 II
Lime 1:30
Knitted Many   × × × × 3.76 2.29 3.02 25.28 96.54 92.89 94.71 II
Woven Too many   × × × × 4.74 3.44 4.07 27.85 85.74 82.48 84.11 III
1:40
Knitted Too many  × × × × × 3.81 2.37 3.09 25.39 96.41 92.86 94.63 III

XXIV
Table 14: Optimization of treatment time of padding bath for combination method

Essential Treatment Parameters

oils time (min.) Fabrics Presence of Wash durability Bending length Average Flexural Crease Average Rank
microcapsules on (wash cycles) (cm) bending rigidity recovery crease
fabric length (cm) (mg-cm) (degree) recovery
5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft Warp Weft (degree)
Woven Too many     × × 4.82 3.37 4.09 27.76 85.54 82.48 84.01 III
20
Knitted many    × × × 3.63 2.30 2.96 24.82 96.89 92.14 94.51 III
Woven Too Many      × 4.63 3.17 3.90 27.61 86.38 82.94 84.66 I
Geranium 30
Knitted Too Many     × × 3.50 2.23 2.86 24.74 97.11 93.20 95.15 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.91 3.43 4..17 28.19 85.28 82.29 83.78 II
40
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.74 2.36 3.05 25.35 96.46 92.94 94.7 II
Woven Too many     × × 4.71 3.42 4.06 27.78 85.65 82.54 84.09 II
20
Knitted many    × × × 3.73 2.19 2.96 24.96 96.73 93.24 94.98 II
Woven Too Many      × 4.60 3.33 3.96 27.61 85.98 82.86 84.42 I
Lime 30
Knitted Too Many      × 3.59 2.27 2.93 24.81 96.91 93.38 95.14 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.86 3.48 4.17 28.24 85.24 82.14 83.69 III
40
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.84 2.36 3.1 25.17 96.43 92.51 93.95 III
Woven Too many     × × 4.76 3.41 4.08 27.84 85.54 82.50 84.02 II
20
Knitted many    × × × 3.64 2.31 2.97 25.19 96.74 92.09 94.41 II
Woven Too Many      × 4.61 3.21 3.91 27.51 86.28 82.78 84.53 I
Palmarosa 30
Knitted Too Many      × 3.76 2.24 3.00 25.30 96.61 92.94 94.77 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.90 3.48 4.19 28.41 85.09 82.10 83.59 III
40
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.80 2.38 3.09 25.45 96.19 92.62 94.40 III
Woven Too many     × × 4.75 3.31 4.03 27.74 85.64 82.54 84.09 II
20
Knitted many     × × 3.71 2.21 2.96 24.88 96.91 93.18 95.04 II
Woven Too Many      × 4.61 3.22 3.91 27.63 86.29 82.87 84.58 I
Peppermint 30
Knitted Too Many      × 3.62 2.13 2.87 24.78 97.02 93.11 95.06 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.84 3.40 4.12 27.86 85.42 82.34 83.88 III
40
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.78 2.30 3.04 25.38 96.46 92.91 94.68 III

XXV
Table 15: Optimization of drying temperature of treated fabrics for combination method

Essential Drying Parameters Crease Average

oils temperature Fabrics Presence of Wash durability Bending length Average Flexural recovery Crease Rank
(ºC) microcapsules (wash cycles) (cm) bending length rigidity (degree) recovery
on fabric 5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft (cm) (mg-cm) Warp Weft (degree)
Woven Few   × × × 4.74 3.35 4.04 27.71 85.74 82.52 84.13 II
70
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.74 2.19 2.96 25.18 96.64 92.89 94.76 III
Woven Too Many      × 4.65 3.30 3.97 27.62 85.93 82.63 84.28 I
80
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.79 2.23 3.01 25.29 96.65 92.90 94.77 II
Geranium
Woven Many    × × × 4.76 3.39 4.07 27.84 85.68 82.46 84.07 III
90
Knitted Many     × × 3.67 2.15 2.91 25.05 96.81 93.04 94.92 I
Woven Few   × × × × 4.83 3.45 4.14 27.95 85.47 82.26 83.86 IV
100
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.83 2.31 3.07 25.36 96.48 92.87 94.67 IV
Woven Many    × × × 4.66 3.31 3.98 27.59 85.90 82.63 84.26 II
70
Knitted Many   × × × × 3.64 2.21 2.92 25.01 96.84 93.01 94.92 II
Woven Too Many      × 4.60 3.25 3.92 27.32 86.18 82.87 84.52 I
80
Knitted Many      × 3.51 2.16 2.83 24.84 97.29 93.34 95.31 I
Lime
Woven Many    × × × 4.75 3.36 4.05 27.75 85.73 82.48 84.10 III
90
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.71 2.24 2.97 25.19 96.61 92.89 94.75 III
Woven Few   × × × × 4.79 3.41 4.10 27.83 85.56 82.43 83.99 IV
100
Knitted Very Few  × × × × × 3.79 2.32 3.05 25.35 96.51 92.81 94.66 IV
Woven Few   × × × × 4.76 3.37 4.06 27.75 85.70 82.45 84.07 III
70
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.71 2.29 3.00 25.26 96.63 92.89 94.76 III
Woven Many    × × × 4.68 3.29 3.98 27.62 85.90 82.64 84.27 II
80
Knitted Many    × × × 3.64 2.26 2.95 25.14 96.68 92.90 94.79 II
Palmarosa
Woven Too Many      × 4.61 3.25 3.93 27.46 86.16 82.82 84.49 I
90
Knitted Too many     × × 3.56 2.19 2.87 25.04 96.96 93.16 95.06 I
Woven Few   × × × × 4.81 3.43 4.12 27.94 85.52 82.32 83.92 IV
100
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.74 2.35 3.04 25.36 96.54 92.84 94.69 IV
Woven Few   × × × × 4.69 3.34 4.02 27.65 85.81 82.54 84.17 II
70
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.63 2.26 2.94 25.09 96.71 92.97 94.84 II
Woven Too Many      × 4.60 3.29 3.94 27.46 86.11 82.78 84.44 I
80
Knitted Too many      × 3.55 2.14 2.84 24.91 97.18 93.30 95.24 I
Peppermint
Woven Many    × × × 4.73 3.41 4.07 27.78 85.70 82.46 84.08 III
90
Knitted Many    × × × 3.71 2.34 3.02 25.32 90.54 92.89 94.71 III
Woven Few   × × × × 4.81 3.46 4.13 27.91 85.49 82.37 83.93 IV
100
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.77 2.39 3.08 25.48 96.43 92.84 94.63 IV

XXVI
Table 16: Optimization of drying time of treated fabrics for combination method

Essential Drying Parameters Crease Average

oils time Fabrics Presence of Wash durability (wash Bending length Average Flexural recovery crease Rank
(min.) microcapsules on cycles) (cm) bending length rigidity (degree) recovery
fabric 5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft (cm) (mg-cm) Warp Weft (degree)
Woven Few   × × × × 4.81 3.43 4.12 27.86 85.48 82.36 83.92 IV
2 Knitted Few  × × × × × 3.86 2.30 3.08 25.45 96.46 92.82 94.64 IV
Woven Many    × × × 4.70 3.31 4.01 27.61 85.86 82.66 84.26 II
3 Knitted Few   × × × × 3.81 2.24 3.02 25.28 96.60 92.94 94.77 III
Geranium
Woven Too Many      × 4.62 3.24 3.93 27.36 86.19 82.83 84.51 I
4 Knitted Few   × × × × 3.73 2.21 2.97 25.10 96.62 92.99 94.80 II
Woven Many    × × × 4.76 3.36 4.06 27.75 85.72 82.54 84.13 III
5 Knitted Many      × 3.67 2.14 2.90 24.97 96.85 93.14 94.99 I
Woven Few   × × × × 4.85 3.47 4.16 28.09 85.26 82.20 83.73 IV
2 Knitted Few   × × × × 3.82 2.26 3.04 25.26 96.52 92.78 94.65 IV
Woven Too Many      × 4.60 3.24 3.92 27.32 86.04 82.76 84.4 I
3 Knitted Many    × × × 3.76 2.21 2.98 25.16 96.58 92.96 94.77 III
Lime
Woven Many    × × × 4.71 3.32 4.01 27.63 85.84 82.68 84.26 II
4 Knitted Many      × 3.59 2.11 2.85 24.75 97.05 93.18 95.11 I
Woven Few   × × × × 4.79 3.37 4.08 27.81 85.68 82.32 84.00 III
5 Knitted Few   × × × × 3.67 2.16 2.91 24.98 96.83 93.10 94.96 II
Woven Few   × × × × 4.89 3.41 4.15 28.05 85.30 82.25 83.77 IV
2 Knitted Many    × × × 3.79 2.31 3.05 25.30 96.35 92.86 94.60 IV
Woven Too Many      × 4.68 3.20 3.95 27.49 86.11 82.78 84.44 I
3 Knitted Many    × × × 3.74 2.22 2.98 25.14 96.57 92.92 94.74 III
Palmarosa
Woven Many    × × × 4.76 3.29 4.02 27.69 85.83 82.62 84.22 II
4 Knitted Many      × 3.62 2.13 2.87 24.84 96.92 93.12 95.02 I
Woven Few   × × × × 4.82 3.33 4.07 27.81 85.68 82.42 84.05 III
5 Knitted Few   × × × × 3.70 2.19 2.94 25.06 96.78 93.04 94.91 II
Woven Few   × × × × 4.76 3.40 4.08 27.85 85.65 82.36 84.00 III
2 Knitted Few   × × × × 3.86 2.29 3.07 25.39 96.49 92.84 94.66 IV
Woven Too Many      × 4.58 3.29 3.93 27.38 86.21 82.87 84.54 I
3 Knitted Too many    × × × 3.77 2.23 3.00 25.28 96.54 92.96 94.75 III
Peppermint
Woven Many    × × × 4.67 3.35 4.01 27.65 85.82 82.65 84.25 II
4 Knitted Many     × × 3.63 2.13 2.88 24.89 96.86 93.05 94.95 I
Woven Few   × × × × 4.79 3.48 4.13 27.87 85.45 82.28 83.86 IV
5 Knitted Few   × × × × 3.74 2.17 2.95 25.11 96.70 92.90 94.80 II

XXVII
Table 17: Optimization of curing temperature of treated fabrics for combination method

Essential curing Parameters Crease Average

oils temperature Fabrics Presence of Wash durability (wash Bending length Average Flexural recovery crease Rank
(ºC) microcapsules cycles) (cm) bending rigidity (degree) recovery
on fabric 5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft length (cm) (mg-cm) Warp Weft (degree)
Woven many    × × × 4.88 3.45 4.16 28.12 85.26 82.32 83.79 IV
110
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.86 2.23 3.04 25.30 96.38 92.91 94.64 IV
Woven Too many      × 4.64 3.24 3.94 27.92 86.14 82.78 84.46 I
120
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.74 2.15 2.94 25.04 96.82 93.14 94.98 II
Geranium
Woven Many    × × × 4.73 3.32 4..02 27.64 85.83 82.64 84.23 II
130
Knitted Many     × × 3.60 2.10 2.85 24.78 96.95 93.32 95.13 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.79 3.37 4.08 27.82 85.56 82.51 84.03 III
140
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.81 2.19 3.00 25.24 96.58 92.98 94.78 III
Woven Many    × × × 4.70 3.48 4.08 27.92 85.61 82.48 84.04 IV
110
Knitted Many    × × × 3.74 2.28 3.01 25.32 96.54 92.92 94.73 IV
Woven Too Many      × 4.41 3.29 3.85 27.50 86.51 83.15 84.83 I
120
Knitted Too Many      × 3.57 2.13 2.85 24.75 97.28 93.30 95.29 I
Lime
Woven Many     × × 4.51 3.37 3.94 27.64 86.12 82.74 84.43 II
130
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.64 2.20 2.92 25.83 97.14 93.18 94.16 II
Woven Few   × × × × 4.63 3.44 4.03 27.80 85.72 82.54 84.13 III
140
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.69 2.24 2.96 25.10 96.90 93.10 95.00 III
Woven Few   × × × × 4.74 3.46 4.10 27.87 85.52 82.54 84.03 IV
110 Knitted Few   × × × × 3.80 2.32 3.06 25.38 96.30 92.86 94.58 IV
Woven Too many      × 4.50 3.29 3.89 27.61 86.35 82.93 84.64 I
120
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.64 2.20 2.92 25.03 96.88 93.20 95.04 II
Palmarosa
Woven Many    × × × 4.53 3.31 3.92 27.69 86.16 82.86 84.51 II
130
Knitted Many      × 3.51 2.13 2.82 25.84 96.98 93.40 95.19 I
Woven Many    × × × 4.62 3.39 4.00 27.81 85.78 82.65 84.21 III
140
Knitted Many    × × × 3.71 2.26 2.98 25.22 96.59 92.96 94.77 III
Woven Many    × × × 4.68 3.44 4.06 27.76 85.63 82.56 84.09 IV
110
Knitted Many    × × × 3.81 2.30 3.06 25.36 96.32 92.85 94.58 IV
Woven Too Many      × 4.44 3.26 3.85 27.62 86.48 83.10 84.79 I
120
Knitted Too Many     × × 3.63 2.17 2.90 24.93 97.15 93.24 95.19 I
Peppermint
Woven Many    × × × 4.53 3.34 3.93 27.76 86.18 82.82 84.50 II
130
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.71 2.21 2.96 25.06 96.94 93.16 95.05 II
Woven Few   × × × × 4.59 3.41 4.00 27.84 85.82 82.73 84.27 III
140
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.76 2.27 3.01 25.27 96.52 92.94 94.73 III

XXVIII
Table 18: Optimization of curing time of treated fabrics for combination method

Essential Curing Parameters Crease recovery Average

oils time (sec.) Fabrics Presence of Wash durability (wash Bending length Average Flexural (degree) crease Rank
microcapsules cycles) (cm) bending length rigidity recovery
on fabric 5 10 15 20 25 30 Warp Weft (cm) (mg-cm) Warp Weft (degree)
Woven Many    × × × 4.71 3.28 3.99 27.59 85.82 82.68 84.25 II
30
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.79 2.33 3.06 25.54 96.32 92.88 94.60 IV
Woven Too Many      × 4.62 3.23 3.92 27.34 86.20 82.80 84.50 I
60
Knitted Many    × × × 3.74 2.28 3.01 25.36 96.54 92.97 94.75 III
Geranium
Woven Many    × × × 4.80 3.32 4.06 27.70 86.65 82.58 84.11 III
90
Knitted Many      × 3.57 2.14 2.85 24.72 97.15 93.24 95.19 I
Woven Few   × × × × 4.86 3.41 4.13 27.82 85.42 82.31 83.86 IV
120
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.71 2.21 2.96 25.16 96.94 93.18 95.06 II
Woven Many    × × × 4.69 3.11 3.90 27.28 86.36 82.92 84.64 II
30
Knitted Many    × × × 3.74 2.31 3.02 25.42 96.48 92.85 94.66 IV
Woven Too Many      × 4.52 3.23 3.87 27.49 86.49 83.06 84.77 I
60
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.70 2.27 2.98 25.10 96.64 93.16 94.90 I
Lime
Woven Many    × × × 4.81 3.31 4.06 27.60 85.62 82.54 84.08 III
90
Knitted Many     × × 3.52 2.14 2.83 25.70 97.49 93.41 95.45 I
Woven Few   × × × × 4.86 3.38 4.12 27.89 85.42 82.30 83.86 IV
120
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.63 2.21 2.92 24.96 96.88 93.26 95.07 II
Woven Many    × × × 4.74 3.30 4.02 27.68 85.71 82.63 84.17 II
30
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.81 2.30 3.05 25.59 96.38 92.86 94.62 IV
Woven Too many      × 4.60 3.19 3.89 27.54 86.38 82.91 84.64 I
60
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.77 2.24 3.00 25.29 96.58 93.02 94.80 III
Palmarosa
Woven Many    × × × 4.83 3.37 4.10 27.89 85.47 82.50 83.98 III
90
Knitted Many      × 3.63 2.11 2.87 24.86 97.10 93.18 95.14 I
Woven Few   × × × × 4.89 3.43 4.16 28.26 85.20 82.30 83.75 IV
120
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.72 2.17 2.94 25.14 96.86 93.24 95.05 II
Woven Many    × × × 4.66 3.16 3.91 27.51 86.28 82.88 84.58 II
30
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.80 2.24 3.02 25.42 96.52 92.96 94.74 IV
Woven Too Many      × 4.54 3.24 3.89 27.48 86.42 82.94 84.68 I
60
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.73 2.19 2.96 25.24 96.84 93.07 94.95 III
Peppermint
Woven Many    × × × 4.75 3.32 4.03 27.78 85.64 82.53 84.08 III
90
Knitted Many      × 3.55 2.10 2.85 24.92 97.25 93.28 95.26 I
Woven Few   × × × × 4.83 3.41 4.12 27.91 85.46 82.39 83.92 IV
120
Knitted Few   × × × × 3.66 2.14 2.90 25.04 96.92 93.29 95.10 II

XXIX
Table 19: Preliminary properties of treated woven fabric by selected essential oils

Treatment Methods Essential oils Fabric count (ends and picks/inch) Fabric thickness (mm) Fabric weight (g/m2)
Warp Per cent Weft Per cent Mean Per cent Mean ± S.E. Per cent
mean± S.E. change mean ± S.E. change change change
Untreated Control 73.60±.24 - 55.60±.92 - .29 - 131.60±.81
Geranium 80.00±.54 +8.69 63.20±.37 +13.66 .36 +24.13 155.20±1.74 +17.93
Lime 80.80±.37 +9.78 63.80±.20 +14.74 .36 +24.13 155.80±.37 +18.38
Microencapsulation Palmarosa 81.20±.37 +10.32 64.80±.37 +16.54 .37 +24.13 153.80±.58 +16.86
Peppermint 79.80±.37 +8.42 63.00±.44 +13.30 .36 +27.58 158.00±.32 +20.06
CD 1.32 1.08 .0019 2.85
Geranium 75.20±.37 +2.17 57.40±.24 +3.23 .31 +6.89 133.40±.24 +1.36
Lime 75.60±.51 +2.71 57.60±.40 +3.59 .30 +3.44 135.40±0.01 +2.88
Direct Palmarosa 74.20±.37 +0.81 57.20±.58 +2.87 .31 +6.89 133.20±.20 +1.21
Peppermint 74.20±.37 +0.81 56.20±.37 +1.08 .31 +6.89 135.60±.24 +3.03
CD 1.23 1.25 .0028 0.84
Geranium 75.20±.37 +2.17 56.00±.44 +0.71 .32 +10.34 133.40±.51 +1.36
Lime 74.80±.37 +1.63 55.80±.20 +0.35 .32 +10.34 137.00±.63 +4.10
Resin cross-linking Palmarosa 76.40±.24 +3.80 56.80±.37 +2.15 .33 +13.79 135.00±.32 +2.58
Peppermint 76.20±.20 +3.53 56.40±.40 +1.43 .33 +13.79 138.40±.60 +5.16
CD 0.87 1.10 .0017 1.58
Geranium 79.40±.60 +7.88 62.80±.37 +12.94 .34 +17.24 144.40±1.12 +9.72
Lime 81.00±.44 +10.05 58.00±.44 +4.31 .34 +17.24 150.20±.73 +14.13
Combination Palmarosa 79.60±.60 +8.15 58.20±.37 +4.67 .34 +17.24 146.60±.40 +11.39
Peppermint 79.80±.58 +8.42 61.00±.31 +9.71 .34 +17.24 150.40±.40 +14.28
CD 1.64 1.14 .0021 2.18
At 5.0% level of significance, + increase, - decrease, SE. = Standard error

XXX
Table 20: Performance properties of treated woven fabric by selected essential oils
Tearing strength (gm) Tensile strength (Kg) Elongation (%)
Essential oils Warp Per Weft Per cent Warp Per cent Weft Per cent Warp Per cent Weft Per
mean± S.E. cent mean ± S.E. change mean±S.E. change mean±S.E. change mean±S.E. change mean±S.E. cent
Treatment methods
change change
Untreated 1671.10±.006 - 1294.59±.007 - 18.65±.005 - 14.84±.005 - 19.72±.007 - 25.45±.008 -
Control
Geranium 1328.29±.005 -20.51 971.58±.09 -24.95 15.33±.006 -17.76 12.42±.005 -16.30 14.16±.008 -28.19 17.58±.006 -30.92
Lime 1317.62±.13 -21.15 985.64±.11 -23.86 15.29±.007 -18.01 12.23±.004 -17.58 14.28±.009 -27.41 17.50±.015 -31.23
Microencapsulation
Palmarosa 1333.19±.005 20.22 985.14±.006 -23.90 15.47±.008 -17.05 12.42±.009 -16.30 15.83±.003 -19.72 19.73±.012 -22.47
Peppermint 1320.22±.008 -20.99 996.27±.006 -23.04 15.13±.008 -18.87 12.63±.007 -14.89 15.64±.014 -20.68 19.78±.013 -22.27
CD .201 .231 .022 .019 .026 .028
Geranium 1656.70±.15 -.86 1239.21±.013 -4.27 18.11±.004 -2.89 14.35±.006 -3.30 19.12±.005 -3.04 24.83±.004 -2.43
Lime 1642.24±.007 -1.72 1248.30±.007 -3.57 17.96±.006 -3.69 14.12±.004 -4.85 19.32±.002 -2.02 24.46±.004 -4.12
Direct
Palmarosa 1652.11±.004 -1.13 1235.85±.005 -4.53 17.85±.005 -4.28 14.25±.005 -3.97 19.56±.004 -0.811 24.52±.005 -3.65
Peppermint 1645.54±.005 -1.52 1249.36±.007 -3.62 18.24±.005 -2.19 14.41±.007 -2.18 19.37±.006 -1.76 24.46±.006 -3.88
CD .229 .025 .015 .016 .013 .020
Geranium 1583.60±.14 -5.23 1216.14±.009 -6.05 12.63±.002 -32.27 9.52±.004 -35.84 12.87±.006 -34.73 15.34±.007 -39.72
Lime 1596.44±.16 -4.46 1226.22±.09 -5.28 12.68±.007 -32.01 9.43±.005 -36.45 12.65±.005 -35.85 15.38±.200 -39.56
Resin cross-linking
Palmarosa 1591.32±.10 -4.77 1221.58±.05 -5.63 12.83±.005 -31.20 9.32±.007 -37.19 12.82±.007 -34.98 15.25±.010 -40.07
Peppermint 1599.17±.004 -4.30 1229.64±.11 -5.01 12.53±.10 -32.81 9.54±.005 -35.71 12.74±.014 -35.39 15.30±.015 -39.88
CD .361 .243 .019 .017 .026 .030
Geranium 1416.60±.11 -15.22 981.31±.004 -24.19 13.72±.004 -26.43 11.25±.010 -24.29 15.74±.009 -20.18 19.85±.004 -22.00
Lime 1422.58±.14 -14.86 992.72±.15 -23.21 13.64±.009 -26.64 11.14±.004 -24.93 15.80±.004 -19.87 19.81±.007 -22.16
Combination
Palmarosa 1439.76±.06 -13.84 989.29±.15 -23.58 13.74±.004 -26.32 11.26±.007 -24.12 14.19±.011 -28.04 17.61±.011 -30.80
Peppermint 1443.60±.12 -13.61 996.27±.13 -23.04 13.83±.007 -25.84 11.47±.005 -22.70 14.40±.007 -26.97 17.65±.004 -30.64
CD .350 .378 .020 .021 .026 .030
At 5.0% level of significance, + increase, - decrease, SE. = Standard error

XXXI
Table 21: Performance properties of treated woven fabric by selected essential oils

Treatment methods Essential oils Bending length (cm) Crease recovery (degree) Flexural rigidity Air permeability
(mg-cm) (m3/m2/min)
Warp Per cent Weft Per cent Warp Per cent Weft Per cent Warp Per cent Weft Per cent
mean± S.E. change mean±S.E. change mean± S.E. change mean±S.E. change mean± S.E. change mean±S.E. change
Untreated 3.26±.007 - 2.56±.007 - 82.57±.005 - 78.15±.013 - 23.95±.002 216.17±0.27 -
Control
Geranium 4.83±.004 +48.15 3.53±.004 +37.89 73.16±.012 -11.39 68.87±.009 -11.87 33.18±0.02 +38.53 172.15±0.01 -20.36
Lime 4.87±.007 +49.38 3.48±.004 +35.93 73.27±.005 -11.26 68.93±.005 -11.79 32.86±0.01 +37.20 170.31±.001 -21.21
Microencapsulation
Palmarosa 4.87±.003 +49.38 3.56±.005 +39.06 72.91±.004 -11.69 68.73±.004 -12.05 33.46±0.01 +39.70 174.11±0.01 -19.45
Peppermint 4.82±.005 +47.85 3.54±.005 +38.28 73.28±.003 -11.61 68.92±.005 -11.81 32.96±0.01 +37.62 168.17±0.01 -22.20
CD .012 .013 .020 .018 .041 .018
Geranium 3.38±.009 +3.68 2.65±.006 +3.51 77.26±.003 -6.43 75.47±.003 -3.42 24.19±0.01 +1.00 202.08±0.01 -6.51
Lime 3.33±.004 +2.14 2.65±.008 +3.51 77.48±.004 -6.16 75.29±.007 -3.65 24.29±0.01 +1.41 206.14±0.01 -4.63
Direct
Palmarosa 3.35±.004 +2.76 2.62±.004 +2.34 77.46±.004 -6.18 75.52±.004 -3.36 24.00±0.02 +0.20 203.15±0.01 -6.02
Peppermint 3.38±.004 +3.68 2.69±.009 +5.07 77.18±.004 -6.52 75.39±.005 -3.53 24.35±0.01 +1.67 199.87±0.01 -7.54
CD .016 .020 .011 .015 .032 .032
Geranium 4.59±.002 +40.79 3.35±.004 +30.85 92.25±.004 +11.72 89.87±.004 +14.99 27.59±0.01 +15.19 187.86±0.01 -13.09
Lime 4.63±.006 +42.02 3.37±.004 +31.64 91.82±.004 +11.20 89.64±.006 +14.70 27.45±0.01 +14.16 191.36±.001 -11.47
Resin cross-linking
Palmarosa 4.56±.002 +39.87 3.40±.006 +32.81 92.37±.004 +11.83 89.93±.002 +15.07 27.39±0.01 +14.36 186.47±0.01 -13.73
Peppermint 4.54±.005 +39.26 3.34±.004 +34.51 92.38±.005 +11.88 90.12±.007 +15.31 27.47±0.01 +14.69 194.26±0.01 -10.13
CD .012 .013 .013 .015 .032 .022
Geranium 4.65±.004 +42.63 3.16±.004 +23.52 86.38±.004 +4.61 82.91±.002 +6.09 27.64±0.01 +15.40 180.37±.001 -16.56
Lime 4.67±.005 +43.25 3.22±.006 +25.78 86.29±.005 +4.50 82.80±.008 +5.95 27.68±0.01 +15.57 183.48±0.01 -15.12
Combination
Palmarosa 4.64±.003 +42.33 3.23±.010 +26.17 86.30±.010 +4.51 82.88±.006 +6.05 27.52±.001 +14.90 186.96±0.01 -13.51
Peppermint 4.68±.003 +43.55 3.27±.005 +27.73 85.98±.004 +4.12 82.87±.007 +6.03 27.63±.001 +15.36 178.35±0.01 -17.49
CD .011 .020 .019 .018 .025 .024
At 5.0% level of significance, + increase, - decrease, SE. = Standard error

XXXII
Table 22: Preliminary properties of aroma treated knitted fabric by selected essential oils

Treatment methods Essential oils Stitch density (Wales and courses/inch) Fabric thickness (mm) Fabric weight (g/m2)
course mean Per cent Wales mean Per cent Mean Per cent Mean ± S.E. Per cent
± S.E. change ± S.E. change change change
Untreated Control 34.00±0.44 - 36.20±o.49 - .52 - 220.80±0.58 -
Geranium 29.80±0.44 -12.35 34.00±0.70 -6.07 .57 +9.61 258.00±0.32 +16.84
Lime 29.20±1.11 -14.11 30.40±0.51 -16.02 .58 +11.53 263.60±0.40 +19.38
Microencapsulation Palmarosa 29.60±1.28 -12.94 32.60±0.51 -9.94 .57 +9.61 260.40±0.51 +17.93
Peppermint 29.60±0.98 -12.94 32.00±0.44 -11.60 .58 +11.53 266.40±0.40 +20.65
CD 3.21 1.65 0.0013 1.23
Geranium 35.60±0.51 +4.70 38.20±0.86 +5.52 .52 - 225.80±1.93 +2.26
Lime 34.40±0.51 +1.17 39.60±1.16 +9.39 .52 - 242.60±1.12 +9.87
Direct Palmarosa 34.60±0.81 +1.76 37.00±1.09 +2.20 .53 +1.92 226.20±0.97 +2.44
Peppermint 36.40±.1.72 +7.05 39.60±1.16 +9.39 .53 +1.92 229.20±1.80 +3.80
CD 3.05 3.235 0.0019 4.541
Geranium 37.40±0.51 +10.00 39.20±1.15 +8.82 .54 +3.84 229.20±1.83 +3.80
Lime 36.00±0.83 +5.88 39.40±0.74 +8.83 .54 +3.84 236.40±1.29 +7.06
Resin cross-linking Palmarosa 37.60±1.07 +10.58 41.80±0.73 +15.46 .53 +1.92 228.40±1.03 +3.44
Peppermint 36.40±0.92 +7.05 43.20±0.73 +19.33 .54 +3.84 240.80±1.20 +9.05
CD 2.58 2.58 0.0013 4.10
Geranium 29.60±0.81 -12.94 33.60±0.87 -7.18 .54 +3.84 238.40±1.63 +7.97
Lime 28.20±0.66 -17.05 33.00±0.63 -8.83 .55 +5.76 241.80±2.01 +9.51
Combination Palmarosa 30.20±0.73 -5.29 33.20±0.66 -8.28 .55 +5.76 240.20±0.80 +8.78
Peppermint 30.40±1.50 -10.58 34.40±1.03 -4.97 .55 +5.76 242.80±0.37 +9.96
CD 2.96 2.44 0.0017 4.09
At 5.0% level of significance, + increase, - decrease, SE. = Standard error

XXXIII
Table 23: Performance properties of treated knitted fabric by selected essential oils

Treatment methods Essential oils Tearing strength (gm) Bursting strength Crease recovery (degree)
(kg/cm2)
Warp Per cent Weft Per cent Mean ± Per cent Warp Per cent Weft Per cent
mean ±S.E. change mean ± S.E. change S.E. change mean ±S.E. change mean±S.E. change
Untreated 2830.00±0.31 - 2185.80±.37 - 8.12±0.01 - 92.41±.010 - 87.16±.008 -
Control
Geranium 2050.40±0.81 -27.54 1485.20±0.49 -32.05 7.85±.001 -3.32 85.66±.012 -7.30 78.72±.011 -9.68
Lime 2030.80±0.86 -28.24 1454.00±0.54 -33.47 7.75±.001 -4.55 85.72±.009 -7.23 78.87±.005 -9.51
Microencapsulation Palmarosa 2045.40±0.74 -27.72 1465.20±0.97 -32.96 7.80±.001 -3.94 85.73±.005 -7.23 78.82±.005 -9.56
Peppermint 2028.80±1.31 -28.31 1471.80±0.97 -32.66 7.77±0.01 -4.31 85.63±.006 -7.37 78.64±.017 -9.77
CD 2.88 2.33 .016 .025 .032
Geranium 2797.73±0.73 -1.14 2114.40±0.51 -3.26 8.10±.001 -0.24 89.64±.004 -2.99 86.82±.006 -3.90
Lime 2786.80±0.58 -1.52 2106.80±0.73 -3.61 7.98±.001 -1.72 90.44±.008 -2.13 87.58±.009 -4.81
Direct Palmarosa 2791.20±0.49 -1.37 2110.60±0.67 -3.44 8.07±0.01 -0.61 90.26±.007 -2.32 87.42±.010 -0.29
Peppermint 2784.00±0.63 -1.62 2102.00±0.77 -3.83 8.01±.001 -1.35 89.91±.012 -2.70 87.54±.011 -4.35
CD 1.84 2.04 .013 .025 .027
Geranium 2397.80±0.37 -15.27 1754.00±0.63 -19.75 5.99±.01 -26.23 104.65±.006 +13.25 99.54±.007 +14.20
Lime 2393.60±0.67 -15.42 1715.60±1.16 -21.51 5.83±.01 -28.20 104.28±.005 +12.84 99.28±.006 +13.90
Resin cross-linking Palmarosa 2390.40±0.67 -15.53 1753.00±0.63 -19.80 5.96±.01 -26.60 104.76±.006 +13.36 99.59±.005 +14.26
Peppermint 2384.80±0.66 -15.73 1712.60±0.60 -21.64 5.88±.001 -27.58 104.48±.004 +13.07 99.42±.005 +14.06
CD 1.83 2.37 .020 .016 .017
Geranium 2593.00±0.63 -8.37 2041.40±0.51 -6.60 7.45±.01 -8.25 97.12±.009 +5.09 93.21±.004 +6.94
Lime 2579.60±1.28 -8.84 2013.00±1.14 -7.90 7.41±.01 -8.74 96.61±.004 +4.54 92.95±.007 +6.64
Combination Palmarosa 2587.60±0.51 -8.56 2045.40±0.98 -6.42 7.48±.01 -7.88 97.03±.007 +4.99 93.12±.004 +6.83
Peppermint 2581.00±1.14 -8.79 2025.00±0.63 -7.35 7.38±.001 -9.11 96.91±.006 +4.86 93.38±.010 +7.13
CD 2.85 2.56 .020 .019 .021
At 5.0% level of significance, + increase, - decrease, SE. = Standard error

XXXIV
Table 24: Performance and comfort properties of treated knitted fabric by selected essential oils

Treatment methods Essential oils Bending length (cm) Flexural rigidity (mg-cm) Air permeability
(m3/m2/min)

Warp Per cent Weft Per cent Mean ± S.E. Percent Mean ± S.E. Per cent
mean± S.E. change mean ± S.E. change change change
Untreated Control 2.55±.005 - 1.70±.004 - 20.26±.01 - 112.56±.011 -
Geranium 3.72±.004 +45.88 2.56±.004 +50.58 28.10±.01 +38.69 76.62±.01 -31.92
Lime 3.76±.009 +47.45 2.52±.005 +48.23 27.89±.02 +37.66 73.37±.01 -34.81
Microencapsulation
Palmarosa 3.68±.004 +44.31 2.49±.023 +46.47 27.70±.02 +36.72 78.36±.01 -30.38
Peppermint 3.73±.005 +46.27 2.53±.009 +48.82 28.15±.02 +38.94 74.15±.01 -34.12
CD .017 .011 .046 .026
Geranium 2.62±.006 +2.74 1.76±.007 +3.52 22.82±.01 +12.63 108.77±.01 -3.36
Lime 2.56±.006 +.39 1.73±.004 +1.76 22.41±.001 +10.61 106.28±.01 -5.57
Direct
Palmarosa 2.54±.005 +0.39 1.77±.007 +4.11 22.62±.02 +11.64 107.35±.02 -4.62
Peppermint 2.58±.007 +1.17 1.78±.003 +4.70 22.81±.01 +12.58 103.49±.01 -8.05
CD .017 .017 .039 .037
Geranium 3.50±.004 +37.25 2.23±.004 +31.17 24.17±.01 +19.29 103.56±.01 -7.90
Lime 3.53±.005 +38.43 2.25±.006 +32.35 24.31±.02 +19.9 95.63±.01 -15.04
Resin cross-linking
Palmarosa 3.48±.006 +36.47 2.13±.009 +25.29 24.18±.01 +19.34 102.15±.01 -9.24
Peppermint 3.59±.009 +40.78 2.26±.010 +32.94 24.13±.01 +19.10 96.27±.01 -14.47
CD .023 .023 .032 .033
Geranium 3.63±.005 +42.35 2.28±.002 +34.11 24.76±.01 +22.21 89.34±.01 -20.62
Lime 3.59±.004 +40.78 2.42±.004 +42.35 24.84±.01 +22.6 86.35±.01 -23.28
Combination
Palmarosa 3.63±.010 +42.35 2.30±.004 +35.29 25.32±.01 +24.97 89.72±.01 -20.29
Peppermint 3.66±.004 +43.52 2.38±.004 +40.00 24.78±.01 +22.30 84.45±.01 -11.25
CD .018 .038 .027 .026
At 5.0% level of significance, + increase, - decrease, SE. = Standard error

XXXV
Table 25: Effect of aroma treatment on preliminary and performance properties of selected fabrics
Treatment Methods Essential oils Fabric thickness(mm) Fabric weight (gm/m2) Tearing strength (gm) Bending length (cm)
Fabrics Mean ± t –value Mean ±S.E. t -value Warp mean ± t -value Weft mean ± t –value Warp mean ± t –value Weft mean ± t –value
S.E. S.E. S.E S.E. S.E
Untreated Knitted .524±.0011 19.66** 220.80±.58 65.20** 2830.00±.31 36.41** 2185.80±.37 23.37** 2.55±.005 8.60** 1.70±.004 11.76**
Control woven .292±.0003 131.60±.81 1671.10±.006 1294.59±.007 3.26±.007 2.56±.007
Geranium Knitted .570±.0005 21.92** 258.00±.32 58.01** 2050.40±.81 8.83** 1485.20±.49 10.51** 3.72±.004 18.99** 2.56±.004 29.21**
woven .361±.0008 155.20±1.74 1328.29±.005 971.58±.09 4.83±.004 3.53±.004
Knitted .577±.0004 41.90** 263.60±.40 36.81** 2030.80±.86 8.21** 1454.00±.54 8.65** 3.76±.009 12.58** 2.52±.005 18.13**
Lime
woven .363±.0002 155.80±.37 1317.62±.13 985.64±.11 4.87±.007 3.48±.004
Microencapsulation
Palmarosa Knitted .566±.0003 23.21** 260.40±.51 37.62** 2045.40±.74 9.70** 1465.20±.97 4.13** 3.68±.004 24.27** 2.49±.023 19.59**
woven .362±.0008 153.80±.58 1333.19±.005 985.14±.006 4.87±.003 3.56±.005
Knitted .579±.0004 30.68** 266.40±.40 29.58** 2028.80±1.31 5.16** 1471.80±.97 4.46** 3.73±.005 14.19** 2.53±.009 18.04**
Peppermint
woven .368±.0004 158.00±.32 1320.22±.008 996.27±.006 4.82±.005 3.54±.005
Geranium Knitted .523±.0004 36.49** 225.80±1.93 47.40** 2797.73±.73 15.44** 2114.40±.51 17.79** 2.62±.006 8.13** 1.76±.007 9.16**
woven .312±.0003 133.40±.24 1656.70±.15 1239.21±.013 3.38±.009 2.65±.006
Knitted .520±.0005 12.28** 242.60±1.12 63.96** 2786.80±.58 19.76** 2106.80±.73 11.39** 2.56±.006 11.13** 1.73±.004 10.59**
Lime
woven .304±.0016 135.40±.40 1642.24±.007 1248.30±.007 3.33±.004 2.65±.008
Direct
Palmarosa Knitted .526±.0006 27.87** 226.20±.97 49.94** 2791.20±.49 23.06** 2110.60±.67 12.70** 2.54±.005 12.98** 1.77±.007 10.83**
woven .309±.0003 133.20±.20 1652.11±.004 1235.85±.005 3.35±.004 2.62±.004
Knitted .528±.0008 20.63** 229.20±1.80 51.52** 2784.00±.63 17.99** 2102.00±.77 11.70** 2.58±.007 10.04** 1.78±.003 9.77**
Peppermint
woven .313±.0006 135.60±.24 1645.54±.005 1249.36±.007 3.38±.004 2.69±.009
Geranium Knitted .537±.0005 22.12** 229.20±1.83 50.49** 2397.80±.37 20.78** 1754.00±.63 8.32** 3.50±.004 24.62** 2.23±.004 20.75**
woven .323±.0007 133.40±.51 1583.60±.14 1216.14±.009 4.59±.002 3.35±.004
Knitted .537±.0003 43.15** 236.40±1.29 69.25** 2393.60±.67 11.94** 1715.60±1.16 4.19** 3.53±.005 14.52** 2.25±.006 15.10**
Lime
woven .324±.0003 137.00±.63 1596.44±.16 1226.22±.09 4.63±.006 3.37±.004
Resin cross-linking
Palmarosa Knitted .534±.0003 37.92** 228.40±1.03 72.34** 2390.40±.67 11.08** 1753.00±.63 8.70** 3.48±.006 10.40** 2.13±.009 11.49**
woven .327±.0004 135.00±.32 1591.32±.10 1221.58±.05 4.56±.002 3.40±.006
Knitted .536±.0004 28.89** 240.80±1.20 64.71** 2384.80±.66 11.35** 1712.60±.60 7.14** 3.59±.009 9.38** 2.26±.010 10.92**
Peppermint
woven .332±.0006 138.40±.60 1599.17±.004 1229.64±.11 4.54±.005 3.34±.004
Geranium Knitted .544±.0008 20.83** 238.40±1.63 47.47** 2593.00±.63 18.76** 2041.40±.51 20.16** 3.63±.005 16.59** 2.28±.002 11.38**
woven .335±.0010 144.40±1.12 1416.60±.11 981.31±.004 4.65±.004 3.16±.004
Knitted .546±.0002 28.55** 241.80±2.01 42.80** 2579.60±1.28 8.14** 2013.00±1.14 8.37** 3.59±.004 17.13** 2.42±.004 8.90**
Lime
woven .337±.0006 150.20±.73 1422.58±.14 992.72±.15 4.67±.005 3.22±.006
Combination
Knitted .548±.0002 28.40** 240.20±.80 43.69** 2587.60±.51 22.14** 2045.40±.98 10.04** 3.63±.010 10.84** 2.30±.004 4.18**
Palmarosa
woven .338±.0005 146.60±.40 1439.76±.06 989.29±.15 4.64±.003 3.23±.010
Knitted .552±.0006 35.66** 242.80±.37 56.64** 2581.00±1.14 9.47** 2025.00±.63 15.21** 3.66±.004 19.86** 2.38±.004 7.48**
Peppermint
woven .340±.0003 150.40±.40 1443.60±.12 996.27±.13 4.68±.003 3.27±.005
**1 % level of significance; * 5% level of significance

XXXVI
Table 26: Effect of aroma treatment on performance and comfort properties of selected fabrics
Treatment Essential oils Fabrics Crease recovery (degree) Flexural rigidity (mg-cm) Air permeability (m3/m2/min)
Methods Warp t –value Weft t –value Mean ±S.E. t -value Mean ± S.E. t –value
mean ± S.E. mean ± S.E.
Untreated Knitted 92.41±.010 8.20** 87.16±.008 11.76 20.26±.006 20.16** 112.56±.010 38.31**
Control Woven 82.57±.005 78.15±.013 23.95±.002 216.17±.026
Geranium Knitted 85.66±.012 8.13** 78.72±.011 6.50** 28.19±.013 18.39** 76.62±.006 93.68**
Woven 73.16±.012 68.87±.009 33.18±.023 172.15±.008
Lime Knitted 85.72±.009 12.60** 78.87±.005 13.93** 27.89±.016 25.26** 73.37±.005 99.99**
Woven 73.27±.005 68.93±.005 32.86±.010 170.31±.004
Microencapsulation Palmarosa Knitted 85.73±.005 19.38** 78.82±.005 14.94** 27.70±.015 33.64** 78.36±.009 88.53**
Woven 72.91±.004 68.73±.004 33.46±.005 174.11±.005
Peppermint Knitted 85.63±.006 18.13** 78.64±.017 5.17** 28.15±.016 26.54** 74.15±.012 66.22**
Woven 73.28±.003 68.92±.005 32.96±.008 168.17±.006
Geranium Knitted 89.64±.004 22.26** 86.82±.006 16.05** 22.82±.007 31.43** 108.77±.006 69.00**
Woven 77.26±.003 75.47±.003 24.19±.007 202.08±.012
Lime Knitted 90.44±.008 14.83** 87.58±.009 10.52** 22.41±.004 35.81** 106.28±.006 75.51**
Woven 77.48±.004 75.29±.007 24.29±.009 206.14±.011
Direct
Palmarosa Knitted 90.26±.007 14.94** 87.42±.010 11.50** 22.62±.022 12.63** 107.35±.022 41.92**
Woven 77.46±.004 75.52±.004 24.00±.016 203.15±.006
Peppermint Knitted 89.91±.012 10.22** 87.54±.011 10.21** 22.81±.010 26.40** 103.48±.008 67.83**
Woven 77.18±.004 75.39±.005 24.35±.008 199.87±.011
Geranium Knitted 104.65±.006 16.69** 99.54±.007 12.64** 24.17±.006 24.39** 103.55±.007 91.10**
Woven 92.25±.004 89.87±.004 27.59±.012 187.86±.005
Lime Knitted 104.28±.005 18.11** 99.28±.006 11.96** 24.31±.015 16.96** 95.63±.013 67.99**
Woven 91.82±.004 89.64±.006 27.45±.009 191.36±.009
Resin cross-linking
Palmarosa Knitted 104.76±.006 17.46** 99.59±.005 16.33** 24.18±.009 27.75** 102.15±.010 65.12**
Woven 92.37±.004 89.93±.002 27.39±.013 186.47±.006
Peppermint Knitted 104.48±.004 18.07** 99.42±.005 11.04** 24.12±.010 19.71** 96.27±.011 60.34**
Woven 92.38±.005 90.12±.007 27.47±.006 194.26±.011
Geranium Knitted 97.12±.009 11.67** 93.21±.004 20.81** 24.76±.011 17.82** 89.34±.009 87.75**
Woven 86.38±.004 82.91±.002 27.64±.011 180.37±.004
Lime Knitted 96.61±.004 15.48** 92.95±.007 9.92** 24.84±.091 18.81** 86.35±.008 89.54**
Woven 86.29±.005 82.80±.008 27.68±.012 183.48±.007
Combination
Palmarosa Knitted 97.03±.007 8.15** 93.12±.004 13.21** 25.32±.008 24.10** 89.72±.005 88.62**
Woven 86.30±.010 82.88±.006 27.52±.003 180.96±.008
Peppermint Knitted 96.91±.006 15.30** 93.38±.010 8.13** 24.78±.008 34.40** 84.45±.011 60.12**
Woven 85.98±.004 82.87±.007 27.63±.002 178.35±.010
**1 % level of significance; * 5% level of significance

XXXVII
 Annexure -VI

Aroma Treated Woven Fabrics

Geranium Oil Lime Oil

Palmarosa Oil Peppermint Oil

XXXVIII
 Aroma Treated Knitted Fabrics

Geranium Oil Lime Oil

Palmarosa Oil Peppermint Oil

XXXIX
 ABSTRACT

a) Title of the thesis :Development of Aroma Textiles using Essential Oils

b) Full name of degree holder :Poonam Kumari, 2010HS71D
c) Title of degree :Doctor of Philosophy in Textile and Apparel Designing
d) Name and address of :Prof. (Dr.) Neelam M. Rose
the Major Advisor Department of Textile and Apparel Designing,
I. C. College of Home Science,
CCSHAU, Hisar- 125004, Harayana, India.
e) Degree awarding university : CCS Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar-125004(India)
f) Year of award of degree : 2015
g) Major subject : Textile and Apparel Designing
h) Total no. of pages in dissertation : 113+ v +XXXIX
i) Number of words in abstract : 619
Key words: Essential oils, geranium, lime, palmarosa, peppermint, cotton fabrics, treatment methods,
optimization, performance and comfort properties
The research was planned to study the effect of four essential oils on cotton fabrics applied through four
treatment methods i.e. direct, microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and combination. To achieve the objectives
proposed in research plan, out of thirteen, four essential oils i.e. geranium, lime, palamarosa and peppermint were
selected on the basis of preferences for aroma and therapeutic effects by 25 respondents for application on the
selected woven and knitted cotton fabrics. Different treatment variables i.e. padding bath components, material to
liquor ratio, treatment time, drying temperature and time, curing temperature and time were optimized on the basis
of bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery. In microencapsulation and combination method, in
addition to performance properties, presence of microcapsules and aroma durability to washing were also assessed.
After application of essential oils using optimized conditions on both the fabrics, Scanning Electron Microscopic
(SEM) analysis and aroma durability in terms of retention and intensity of aroma to washing, abrasion, ironing and
sun-drying was done. Effect of aroma treatment on change in fabric properties regarding fabric count/stitch
density, thickness, weight, bending length, flexural rigidity, crease recovery, bursting strength, air permeability,
tearing strength, tensile strength and elongation were examined. Effect of aroma treatment on texture and
whiteness was also investigated.
Different variables of microencapsulation method for preparation of microcapsule gel i.e. ratio of oil:
gum: gelatin 1:2:4 for lime, palmarosa and peppermint oil, 1:4:4 for geranium oil, at 50°C temperature, initial pH
4.5 and final pH 9.0 for geranium, lime and plamarosa oil, 4.0 and 10.0 for peppermint oil were optimized.
Proportion of padding bath components were optimized as 50:3:15 microcapsule gel: softener: binder for
microencapsulation, 6 percent citric acid for direct method, resin cross-linking agent i.e. BTCA 12 to13 g/l for
woven and knitted fabric with proportion of 2 to 4 g/l sodium hypophosphite for resin cross-linking method. At
MLR 1:20 with 30 minutes of treatment time, both the fabrics treated with all the four essential oils exhibited
better performance properties. The drying temperature (80° and 90°C), duration (2, 3 and 4 minutes), curing
temperature (110°C) and curing duration (30 and 60 seconds) were selected for treated fabric on the basis of
improvement in the performance properties. Maximum aroma durability in terms of retention and intensity was
observed in combination method followed by microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and direct method after
washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying of aroma treated woven and knitted fabrics. Fabric count (woven),
weight and thickness increased in both the fabrics treated with all the essential oils by all the treatment methods.
Bending length and flexural rigidity were also found to be increased but at an acceptable level. Stitch density
increased in knitted fabric treated with all the essential oils by microencapsulation and combination method
whereas decreased in direct and resin cross-linking method. Crease recovery of all the treated fabrics decreased
when aroma treatment was given by microencapsulation and direct method and increased in resin cross-linking and
combination method. Air permeability and tearing strength of the woven and knitted fabric decreased however,
tensile strength and elongation decreased in woven and bursting strength decreased in knitted fabric with all the
essential oils by all the treatment method but to an acceptable level. Texture of both the fabrics was not affected
much. There was not much difference in whiteness of both the fabrics treated with geranium and peppermint oil
but samples treated by lime and palmarosa oil give some difference in whiteness as indicated by whiteness index
values. It was concluded that all the four essential oils can be effectively used without affecting the comfort and
performance of the treated fabric to give aroma treatment by direct, microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and
combination method as per aroma durability requirement of end product.

Major Advisor HOD Signature of the student

 CURRICULUM VITAE

a) Name of the student : Poonam Kumari

b) Date of Birth : 1st November 1985
c) Place of Birth : Bhiwani
d) Mother’s Name : Smt. Nirmala
e) Father’s Name : Sh. Satbir Singh Rathi
f) Permanent Address : Gali No.- 10, H. No.- 26 E,
Jawahar Nagar, Hisar, Haryana
g) Mobile : 09468442027
h) E-mail : [email protected]
i) Academic qualification:
Degree University/Board Year of %age Subjects
passing
B.Sc. I.C. College of Home 2008 73.00 F&N, HDFS, C&T, FRM,
(Home Science) Science, C.C.S. H.A.U, Extension
Hisar
M.Sc. College of Home Science 2010 78.20 Textile and Apparel
(Home Science) MPUAT, Udaipur Designing
(Rajasthan)
Ph. D. I.C. College of Home 2015 78.40 Textile and Apparel
(Home Science) Science, C.C.S. Designing
H.A.U,Hisar

j) List of Publications
Kumari, P., Rose, N.M. and Singh, S. Jeet S.S. Microencapsulation of Lime Essential Oil
for Fragrant Textiles. Paper accepted in Annals of Agri Bio Rearch.

Signature of student
 UNDERTAKING OF COPYRIGHT

I, Poonam Kumari, Adm. No. 2010HS71D undertake that I give copy right to the CCS
HAU, Hisar of my thesis entitled, ‘Development of Aroma Textiles using Essential Oils’
I also undertake that patent, if any, arising out of the research work conducted during
the programme shall be filed by me only with due permission of the competent authority of
Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar.

Signature of the student