UNIT-5_INDUSTRIAL PHARMACY-I

COSMETICS
Introduction
Cosmetic is a Greek word which means to 'adorn' (addition of something decorative to a
person or a thing). It may be defined as a substance which comes in contact with various parts
of the human body like skin, hair, nail, lips, teeth, and mucous membranes etc. A cosmetic
substance help in improving or changing the outward show of the body and also masks the
odour of the body. It protects the skin and keeps it in good condition. In general, cosmetics
are external preparations which are applied on the external parts the body.

Now days, cosmetics are considered as essential components in life. They not only, attract the
people towards it but also impart psychological effects. It has gained popularity in the last 3-4
decades and its use has been increased exponentially both-in males and females. The most
popular cosmetics are hair dyes, powders and creams.

Examples of Cosmetics:

Skin-care creams, powders, lotions, lipsticks, nail polishes, eye and face makeup, deodorants,
baby products, hair colourants and sprays etc.

Uses:

1. They are used as a cleansing, moisturizing and beautifying agent.

2. They help in enhancing attractiveness of the body.

3. They help in altering the appearance of the body without affecting its functions.

4. Sunscreen products help in protecting the body from UV rays and treating sunburns.

5. Acne, wrinkles, dark circles under eyes and other skin imperfections are treated or repaired
by treatment products.

6. Cosmetics help in treating skin infection.

Classification:
Cosmetics are broadly categorized into four types:

1. Skin Cosmetics
2. Hair Cosmetics
3. Nail Cosmetics
4. Cosmetics for hygiene purpose

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Lipsticks
Definition:

Lipstick may be basically defined as dispersion

of the colouring matter in a base consisting of a
suitable blend of oils, fats and waxes with
suitable perfumes and flavours moulded in the
form of sticks to impart attractive gloss and
colour, when applied on lips.
Lipsticks provide moist appearance to the lips
accentuating them and disguising their defects.

Fig. Lipstick

Ideal Characteristics of Good Lipsticks:

The ideal requirements for the formation of a good lipstick may be as follows:

 It should efficiently cover lips with colour and impart a gloss which would last long.
 It should be able to maintain the intensity of colour without any alteration in the degree
of its shade.
 It should be able to adhere firmly to the lips and should not provide any greasy
appearance.
 It should possess good thixotropic property so as to deposit the colour with minimum
pressure.
 It should show a smear proof coloring effect.
 It should possess required plasticity and be able to maintain all the properties throughout
the storage period.
 It should not be gritty.
 It should be easily dried.
 The stick should possess even firmness and should maintain its strength at varying
temperatures up to 55°C.
 The stick should not dry or crumble easily.
 The lipstick should possess a pleasant fragrance and a good flavour.
 Should be safe and non-irritating to the lips.
 Result in blooming or sweating of the lips.

2.1 Formulation of lipsticks

The lipstick base is made by mixing the oils and waxes in varying proportions in order to
obtain a desirable viscosity and melting point.

Composition:

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 UNIT-5_INDUSTRIAL PHARMACY-I

The raw materials involved the formulation of the lipsticks could be as follows:

Ingredients Example
The solid components / waxes :
(a) The hydrocarbon waxes White bees wax
(b) The mineral waxes Ozokerite wax, ceresine wax
(c) Hard waxes Carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hard paraffin
(d) Micro crystalline waxes
The liquid components Mineral oils, vegetable oils, castor oils, butylstearate,
Glycol, water, silicon-fluids, IPM (isopropyl maleate)
The softening components Anhydrous lanoline, lanolin cocoa butter, lecithin,
petrolatum
The coloring agents Carmine, dyestuff stain, pigmented stain, lakes etc.
Pearlescent pigments Guanine crystals, bismuth oxychloride
Opacifying agents Titanium dioxide
Perfumeries Rose oil, cinnamon oil, lavender oil etc.
Miscellaneous agents :
(a) Preservatives Parabens
(b) Antioxidants BHA, BHT, tocopherol etc.
(c) Flavouring agents Cinnamoniol, spearmint oil etc.

Fig. Lipsticks

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The various formulae for the preparation of lipsticks are as follows:

Formula 1 Quantity for 100 g
Castor oil (dissolving liquid) 54 g
Anhydrous lanoline (Emollient) 11 g
Candelilla wax (hardening agent) 9g
Isopropyl myristate (blending agent) 8g
White bees wax (stiffening agent) 5g
Carnauba wax (provides rigidity) 3g
Ozokerite wax (increase melting point) 3g
Eosin (dye) 2g
Lakes (color) 5g
Rose flavour (perfume) q. s
Tocopherol (antioxidant) q. s
Paraben (preservative) q. s

Formula 2 Quantity for 100 g

Castor oil (dissolving liquid) 54 g
lanolin (Emollient) 8g
Candelilla wax (hardening agent) 6g
Carnauba wax (provides rigidity) 2.5 g
Ozokerite wax (increase melting point) 2.5 g
bees wax (stiffening agent) 6g
Isopropyl myristate (blending agent) 4g
Halogenated fluorescence (color) 3g
Lakes (color) 12 g
propyl Paraben (preservative) 0.2 g
Rose oil (perfume) 0.8 g
Rose oil (perfume) 0.8 g

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 UNIT-5_INDUSTRIAL PHARMACY-I

Formula 3 Quantity for 100 g

Castor oil (dissolving liquid) 27 g
bees wax (stiffening agent) 20 g
Ozokerite wax (increase melting point) 10 g
Carnauba wax (provides rigidity) 5.5 g
lanolin (covering agent/Emollient) 5g
Paraffin(stiffening agent) 3g
Isopropyl myristate (blending agent) 3g
Cetyl alcohol (co-solvent) 2g
Propylene glycol (humectant) 11 g
Propylene glycol monoricinoleate (humectant) 4g
Eosin (dye) 2.5 g
Color 10 g
Rose oil (perfume) q. s
Paraben (preservative) q. s
Tocopherol (antioxidant) q. s

2.2 Preparation of lipsticks:

Successful preparation of lipstick shades depend upon the adequate dispersion of the lake
colours in the lipstick mass. It is advisable to prepare the dispersion of lake colours in castor
oil. Dispersions are generally prepared by milling about 25% concentrations of lakes in castor
oil.

Method of Preparation:

 If a solvent is used for the dissolution of bromo acid, the solution is first prepared
and set aside until required.
 If commercial colour pastes are not being used, then lake colours are first dispersed
by mixing with suitable quantity of castor oil.
 The colour paste obtained is passed through a triple roller mill until it becomes
smooth and free from agglomerates and gritty particles.
 The colour mixture is then mixed with the bromo acid mixture.
 All the ingredients of the base are identified and arranged in the increasing order of
their melting points.
 This mixture is remilled until it is perfectly smooth.
 Preservatives and anti-oxidant are dissolved in remaining oil and are added to the
mixture.
 Finally, the perfume is added and the mass is stirred thoroughly, but gently to avoid
entrapment of air.
 Automatic ejection mould is preferred for the large scale production.
 The mould is lubricated with liquid paraffin or isopropyl myristate before pouring
the mass into the mould.
 It is important to prevent settling down of the coloring mass when the moulds are
chilled. Lubrication facilitates easy removal of sticks.
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 UNIT-5_INDUSTRIAL PHARMACY-I

Shampoos
Definition
A viscous cosmetic preparation with synthetic
detergent used for washing hair is called shampoo.
Its principle function is to clean the scalp such that
it should become free from sebum and foreign
substances. Shampoo also makes the hair lustrous
and good looking. In olden days detergent soap
were used for washing hairs, but nowadays it has
been replaced by shampoo .Today shampoo has
become an important hair cosmetic for both men
and women. However the detergent and other raw
materials selected for shampoo preparation should
be nontoxic to tile scalp, eyes etc. Apart from
cleaning, shampoo may also be used for medicinal
purpose (i.e., medicated shampoo). After
preparation each and every shampoo must be
Evaluated
Fig. Shampoo

Properties:

 It should have optimum viscosity such that it facilitates ease during application.
 It should have good spreading properties.
 It should produce sufficient lather after application.
 It should be able to remove waste material such as debris, soil, sebum, dead cells,
salts (due to sweat) etc., from the scalp.
 It should not form any kind of film on scalp.
 It should rinse out completely after washing.
 It should produce lather with both hot and cold water.
 It should facilitate ease of combing after shampooing.
 After drying, the hair should not give rough appearance.
 It should provide lustre to the hair.
 It should produce good odour both before and after shampooing.
 It should not produce any kind of irritation or itching to the scalp.
 It should not support any microbial growth.
 It should be stable and have a half-life of about 2 to 3 years.
 It should be economical.

3.1 Types of shampoo

Various types of shampoos are available and they are classified based on their consistency.
They are as follows:

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 UNIT-5_INDUSTRIAL PHARMACY-I

1. Clear liquid shampoos

2. Liquid cream shampoos
3. Cream shampoos
4. Gel shampoos
5. Powder shampoos
6. Aerosol shampoos (Foam type)
7. Special shampoos

Fig Shampoo and Conditioner

1. Clear Liquid shampoo: These are clear liquid preparations that are most widely used.
They are usually made by using detergent of low cloud point. Alkanolamides can also be
used in these preparations. Some of these shampoos may be transparent.

Formula Quantity for 100 g

Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (surfactant) 50 g
Lauricisopropanolamine (foam booster) 2g
Perfume, color, preservative q. s
Water 48 g

2. Liquid Cream Shampoos: These are called as lotion shampoos which are modification of
clear liquid shampoos. Addition of opacifier such as glycerylmonostearate, glycol stearate
etc., to the clear liquid shampoo yields liquid cream shampoo. Solubilising agents such as
magnesium stearate is also used to dissolve the added opacifier.

Formula Quantity for 100 g

Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (surfactant) 35 g
Glycerylmonostearate (opacifier) 2g
Magnesium stearate (stabilizer) 1g
Perfume, color, preservative q. s
Water 62 g

3. Cream Shampoos: These shampoos have a paste like consistency and are packed in a
collapsible tube. They find great use in hair salons. They are also available in jars with wide
mouth. The paste consistency is developed by addition of alkyl sulphates, also Cetyl alcohol
is added, which serves as a builder.

Formula Quantity for 100 g

Sodium lauryl sulphate (surfactant) 38 g
Cetyl alcohol (builder) 7g
Perfume, color, preservative q. s
Water 55 g

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 UNIT-5_INDUSTRIAL PHARMACY-I

4. Gel Shampoo: These are transparent and thick usually made by incorporating a gelling
agent, (e.g., cellulose).There is great use in hair salons and beauty parlors. The principle
ingredient is detergent which can be used either alone or in combination with soap. By
altering the proportion of detergent, gel of required consistency can be obtained. Addition of
methyl cellulose to clear liquid shampoo and its subsequent thickening also gives rise to gel
shampoo.

Formula Quantity for 100 g

Alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride 15 g
Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (surfactant) 28 g
Coconut diethanolamide 7g
Hydroxyl propyl methyl cellulose 1g
Perfume, color, preservative q. s
Water 49 g

5. Powder Shampoos: As name suggests, it is available in the form of dry powder, initially it
was prepared from dry soaps, but nowadays dry synthetic detergents are used for their
preparation. Powder shampoo is prepared where addition of water or other solvent reduces
the activity of the components, especially in case of medicated shampoo. Nowadays, these
shampoos are not used due to the difficulty experienced in their application.

Formula Quantity for 100 g

Sodium lauryl sulphate (surfactant) 20 g
Sarcoside 5g
Sodium bicarbonate 10 g
Sodium sulphate 65 g
Perfume q. s

Another formulation called dry shampoo is also a type of powder shampoo. Initially they are
applied on to the head and then removed by the brush. it doesn't involve the use of water.
They are usually preferred, when the hair are greasy. This formulation usually includes
adsorbents.

Formula Quantity for 100 g

Starch (adsorbent) 15 g
Talc (adsorbent) 45 g
Kieselgur (adsorbent) 40 g
Perfume q. s

6. Aerosol Shampoos (Foam Type): They are called aerosol shampoos because they are
packed in aerosol containers .Their formulation, preparation and packing is complicated as an
additional propellant is included. The propellant added must be compatible and should not

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reduce the activity of shampooing ingredients. The container opening is provided with a
valve. Shampoo comes out as foam when the valve is pressed .Hence also called as foam type
shampoo.

Formula Quantity for 100 g

Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (surfactant) 60 g
Coconut diethanolamide 2g
Propellant 10 g
Perfume, color, preservative q. s
Water 28 g

7. Special Shampoos: These are the shampoos which are meant for special purpose. They are

(a) Medicated Shampoo: These shampoos contain medicinal agents. These agents treat the
disorders of the scalp or hair. Examples of medicated shampoos are: Anti-lice shampoo, Anti-
dandruff shampoo, Anti-baldness shampoo etc,.

The medicinal agent added should not irritate the sebaceous glands. It should not sensitize the
scalp. The degree of itching and scaling should also be reduced. Among all, anti-dandruff
type of medicated shampoo is most widely used. Formula for which is given below:

Formula Quantity for 100 g

Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (surfactant) 60 g
Thymol (anti dandruff) 0.1 g
Camphor (counter irritant) 0.1 g
Perfume, color, preservative q. s
Water 38.8 g

(b) Conditioner Shampoos: These shampoos serve for hair conditioning. Initially they clean
the hair (and scalp) and keep them in smooth and lustrous condition. They also prevent
sticking of hairs. Conditioner shampoo nowadays is widely used by both men and women.
Most of the conditioners are made from Quaternary ammonium compounds. These
compounds have the property of reducing electric charges between the hair, as a result hair
become lustrous easily manageable. These compounds can also exhibit a bactericidal effect.

Formula Quantity for 100 g

Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride 5.5g
Ethylene glycol monostearate 2g
Cetyl alcohol 2.5 g
Perfume, preservative q. s
Water 90 g

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 UNIT-5_INDUSTRIAL PHARMACY-I

3.2 Formulation of shampoo

Formula of Shampoo contains the following ingredients:

Ingredients Examples
1. Surfactants
(a) Anionic Surfactants Alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphate
(b) Non- ionic Surfactants Alkanolamides
(c) Cationic Surfactants Alkyl amines, alkyl imidazolines
(d) Amphoteric surfactant Acyl amino acids
2. Foam booster Monoethanolamides, lauramides DEA, cocamide
DEA
3. Germicide and anti-dandruff Banzalkoniumchloride, cetrimide, selenium
agent sulphide, cadmium sulphide
4. Conditioning agent Lanolin, egg, amino acids
5. Pearlescent agent 4-methyl-7-diethylamino coumarin, 4-methyl-5,7-
dihydrocoumarin
6. Sequestrants EDTA, citric acid, tripohyphosphate
7. Thickeners Alginates, polyvinyl alcohol, methyl cellulose
8. Perfuming agent Herbal fruits or floral fragrance
9. Preservatives p-hydroxyl benzoic acid phenyl mercuric nitrate
10. Colour FD and C dye

3.3 Preparation of shampoo

Simple procedure is involved in the preparation of shampoo. Initially only one method
available for the preparation of shampoo, but later the basic method was modified in order to
obtain different type of shampoo like cream, gel, aerosol etc.

General Method for preparation of shampoo:

Liquid shampoo is usually prepared by this method which involves the following steps:

 Initially the detergent is converted into a solution form or a detergent solution ma ho

directly obtained from the manufacturer.
 Take about half of the detergent solution into a separate container. To it, add the total amount
of secondary surfactant i.e., alkanolamide.
 Dissolve the alkanolamide along with stirring. Sometimes, gentle heat is also applied.
To the remaining half of the detergent solution add suitable amount of perfuming agent
and dissolve it.
 The perfume solution is then added to the alkanolamide solution.
 Colour and preservatives are dissolved separately in sufficient volume of water and then
added to the main solution.
 The whole, solution is mixed well by gentle stirring. Excessive stirring may lead to
bubble formation.
 Final volume of the preparation is usually adjusted by the addition of clear sterile waste.
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This gives clear liquid shampoo.

 However, when the preparation contains lauryl alcohol ether sulphate. It is required to
adjust the viscosity of the shampoo.
 Viscosity adjustment is done by using an electrolyte solution. Usually, a solution of
sodium chloride is added subsequently with constant stirring. Care must be taken to it
event the excess addition of sodium chloride.

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Creams
Definition:

Creams are semi-solid emulsions which contain mixtures of oil and water. Their
consistency varies between liquids and solids. Salve (medical ointment for soothing
purpose) and unguent (soothing products) preparations in earlier days led to the
development of cleansing and cold creams. With the help of additives such as
emulsifying agents and newer techniques, the preparation of creams has become easy.

Classification

Creams are classified according to their functions. They are:

1. Cleansing and Cold Creams.

2. Foundation and Vanishing Creams.

3. Night and Message Creams.

4. Hand and Body Creams.

5. All-purpose Creams is Cleansing and Cold Creams

Cold Creams: These types of creams are water-in-oil type of emulsion. They produce
cooling sensation by the evaporation of water, after application of cream to the skin. Hence,
they are known as cream. They should possess emollient action and the layer left on the skin
after application should be non-occlusive.

Formula Quantity for 100 g

White beeswax (emollient) 20 g
Mineral oil (lubricant) 50 g
Distilled water (vehicle) 28.8 g
Borax (buffer) 0.7 g
Perfume (odour) 0.5 g
Method:

Beeswax is melted in a container by using water bath to a temperature of about 70° C.

Then mineral oil is added to the melted beeswax. This is mixture A.
In another container, water is heated to a temperature of about 70° C and borax is
dissolved in it. This is mixture B.
Mixture B (aqueous phase) is added slowly to mixture A (oily phase) along with
stirring. Stirring is carried out until a creamy emulsion is formed.
Finally, perfume is added to the preparation when it attains a temperature of about
40°C.

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Vanishing Creams: They are oil in water type of emulsion. When applied on the surface of
skin, they spread as thin oil less film which is not visible to the naked eye. Hence, they are
called as vanishing creams. They are used to hold powder on the skin as well as to improve
adhesion.

Properties:
 It should have high melting point.
 It should be pure white in colour.
 It should possess very little odour.
 It should have less number of iodine.

Formula-1 Quantity for 100 g

Stearic acid (lubricant) 24 g
Potassium hydroxide (softening agent) 1g
Water (vehicle) 64 g
Glycerin (humectants) 10.5 g
Perfume (odour) 0.5 g

Method:

Stearic acid is melted in a container by using water bath.

Potassium hydroxide is dissolved in water and then glycerin is added. This mixture is
heated to a temperature of about 75' C. This is aqueous phase.
Slowly aqueous phase is added to melted stearic acid along with continuous stirring.
Perfume is added to the preparation when it attains a temperature of 40° C.

Note: During cooling, care should to be taken, as the cream passes, through two
transformations i.e., softening and hardening. Then cream attains its desired form. Even
formation of crust on the top surface of cream should be avoided by stirring to prevent lump
formation.

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 UNIT-5_INDUSTRIAL PHARMACY-I

Toothpastes
Introduction

Dentifrices such as toothpastes, tooth

powders and tooth gels are meant for the
cleaning the surface of the teeth by
removing the food debris and plaque
adhered to surface of the teeth which is the
main cause for tooth problems.

Fig. Toothpaste

The general requirements for a dentifrice are as follows:

 It should be capable of cleaning the teeth adequately by removing food debris, plaque
and stains efficiently.
 It should leave a pleasant, cool and refreshing sensation in the mouth.
 It should be harmless, non-toxic and should not cause irritation in the mouth or any
ulcers in the buccal cavity.
 It should be able to maintain its flow properties all through its commercial period of
storage.
 It should be easy to pack and easy to use.
 The abrasive character of the dentifrice should be under the limits of the standards and
should not be harsh on the enamel and the dentine.
 It should confirm to the standards of the EC cosmetic directive which states that it is
not liable to cause damage to human health when used under normal conditions.
 The assessment of any claims shall be certified based on properly conducted clinical
trials.
 Most of all it should be economical to purchase in order to encourage regular and
frequent use by common people.

The dentifrice with all the above mentioned qualities is said to be an efficient dentifrice.

Formulation

Toothpastes are the most popular form of dentifrices. They include the following ingredients
which determine the quality and efficiency of toothpastes.

1. Polishing Agents / Abrasive Agents: The abrasives or the polishing agents are used to
polish the teeth and remove food debris adhered to the surface of the teeth. They are used in
concentration of about 20 - 50% of the total formulation.

They should possess the following characteristics:

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(a) They should not produce any gritty sensation in the mouth.
(b) They should possess good abrasive properties.
(c) They should not lead to any incompatibilities and should be compatible with the other
ingredients.
(d) They should be harmless to the enamel and the abrasive property should be under limits.
(e) They should provide a good shine to the enamel.

Ingredients Examples
Agents responsible for cleansing (a) precipitated calcium carbonate
Action (b) phosphates of calcium
 Polishing agents/abrasive (c) dental graded silica / polymers of silica (SiO2)n
agents (d) trihydrated alumina
 Foaming agents/surfactants (a) sodium lauryl sulphate (ROSO3Na)
(b) sodium lauryl sarcosinate
Agents responsible for the formation (a) Sorbitol 70
Of toothpastes (b) Glycerin
 Humectants (c) Propylene glycol
 Gelling agents/binding agents (a) Sodium carboxy methyl cellulose (SCMC)
(b) Cellulose ethers
Agents responsible for improving (a) Sodium saccharin
Palatability (b) Chloroform
 Sweetening agents (c) Cinnamon bark
 Flavouring agents (d) Spearmint oil etc.
Miscellaneous agents
 Coloring agents
 Whitening agents Titanium dioxide (TiO2)
 Preservatives 5% methyl paraben and 0.02% propyl paraben
 Therapeutic agents Anticaries Agents, Antiplaque Agents etc.

Toothpaste formula:

Formula-1 Quantity for 100 g

Calcium carbonate (adhesive agent) 28 g
sodium lauryl sulphate (surfactant) 0.5 g
Glycerin (humectants) 11 g
Gum tragacanth (binding agent) 0.75 g
Water (liquid phase) 9.7 g
Saccharin sodium (sweetening agent) 0.05 g
Flavor (flavoring agent) q. s
Preservative (for storage) q. s

Preparation of toothpaste:
The preparation of toothpastes may be carried out by using two methods which are as
follows:
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 UNIT-5_INDUSTRIAL PHARMACY-I

 Dry gum method.

 Wet gum method.

1. Dry Gum Method:

In this method, all the solid components of the formulation like abrasive agent,
binding agent etc., except the surfactants are mixed together in a dry mixer. The mixer
may be an agitation mixer which consists of slow rotating blades.
The liquid components such as the humectants and water are gradually added to the
dry mix.
The mixing process is carried out till a smooth paste is formed.
The remaining ingredients like the surfactants and the flavouring agents are added to
the homogenous paste under vacuum.

2. Wet Gum Method:

In this method, all the liquid components are mixed together to form a liquid phase.
The binding agent is then mixed with the liquid phase with uniform stirring in order
form mucilage.
The solid ingredients excluding the surfactants are then gradually added to the
mucilage with uniform mixing in an agitation mixer, in order to form a homogenous
paste.
The remaining ingredients i.e., the surfactants, the flavoring agents, coloring agents
are added under vacuum the homogenous paste.

Based on the principle involved in the above methods, some acceptable techniques have been
proposed for the manufacture of toothpaste which is as follow:
1. Cold compression technique: The preparation of toothpaste using this technique can be
carried out as follows.
Initially, the humectants such as sorbitol (70% w/v) or glycerine are taken in the bowl
of the mixer.
The binding agent is then sprinkled over the humectant under agitation for uniform
dispersion.
The liquid components such as water, sweetener and the preservatives are mixed to
form a separate liquid phase and any therapeutic additives if necessary are also added
to the liquid phase.
This liquid phase is then added to the humectant-binder mixture in the bowl and
mixing is carried out for 5 minutes in order to remove the air from the thick gelatinous
liquid phase.
The vacuum is stopped and the abrasive agents are added with constant mixing until
they are completely dissolved.
The vacuum is reapplied and mixing is continued for at least 30 minutes.
The surfactants and the flavouring agents are dispersed separately in 5% humectant.
This mixture is added to the vacuum at the end and 5 minutes of additional mixing is
carried out.
Finally, it leads to the formation of an air free smooth paste.

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2. Multiple Liquid Phase technique: This method is suitable for formulations that make use
of carboxy methyl cellulose (CMC) and magnesium aluminium silicate hinder combination.
The preparation can be carried out as follows:

Initially, hot water is taken in a mixer bowl and magnesium aluminium silicate is
added to it.
The humectants, the flavouring agent, the binding agent and the preservatives are
mixed separately to form a separate liquid phase.
This solution is then added to the mixer and the final volume is made using the
humectants.
Vacuum is introduced into bowl in order to remove the air from the liquid mixture.
The vacuum is removed and the abrasive agents are added and the vacuum is again
introduced in the mixed for 30 minutes.
Finally, the surfactants are added with constant inking for 5 minutes. The method is
also suitable for the preparation of clear-gel dentifrices.

3. Hot Liquid Phase Technique: The method preparation using this technique is as follows:

In this method, the abrasive agent, binding agent and preservatives are mixed
separately in a dry mixer.
The humectant, sweeteners and water are mixed separately and this liquid phase is
heated.
The hot solution is then slowly added to dry powder with constant mixing.
The resultant mass is then mixed under vacuum for 30 minutes.
Finally, the solutions of the flavouring agent and the surfactant are added and
vacuum, mixing is carried out for 5 more minutes.
A clear and homogeneous paste is formed by this method.

Vivekanand Prajapati, Asst. Professor (HCOP)

 UNIT-5_INDUSTRIAL PHARMACY-I

Hair Dyes
Introduction:

A variety of hair colours are observed between the people living in east and the people living
in west. The agents that are responsible for variety of hair colours are only two which are
Pheomelanins and eumelanins. Pheomelanins impart different shades of red and yellow
whereas, eumelanins impart different shades of dark brown and black. A variety of hair
colours are observed due to the following parameters.

 The combination of Pheomelanins

and eumelanins.
 The quantity of the pigment present.
 The size of the granules of the
pigments.
 The distribution of granules of the
pigments.

Fig. Hair Dyes

Definition: Hair colourants are the cosmetic preparations which are used by men and women
either to change the natural hair colour or to mask grey hair. The properties of typical hair
colourants are

 The formulation of the hair colourant should be stable.

 They should colour the hair evenly.
 They should not lead to loss of the natural shine of hair.
 The shaft of the hair must not be damaged.
 The natural moisture of the hair must not be lost.
 Must possess properties like non-irritant and non-sensitizing.
 Must be non-toxic in nature. Must impart stable color to the hair.
 The colored hair must be unaffected by air, water, sunlight, sweat, friction, shampoos,
lotions, gels, oils etc.

8.1 Classification of hair colourants

The major classification is listed as follows:

1. Temporary hair colourants.

2. Semi-permanent hair colourants/Direct dye
3. Oxidative dyeing systems: It includes:
(a) Semi-permanent hair colourants.
(b) Permanent hair colourants.
4. Gradual hair colourants.
5. Natural dyes.
Fig. Hair Colourants

Vivekanand Prajapati, Asst. Professor (HCOP)

 Formula-1 Quantity for 100 g
Quaternary ammonium compound (color) 10-12 g
Anionic surfactant (surfactant ) 8-10 g
Acid (buffer) 6-8 g
Alkanolamide (surfactant ) 4-6 g
Dye stuff (color) 1-2 g
Water (solvent) To make 100 g

Method:

 A mixture of alkanolamide and anionic surfactant is

prepared.
 The dye is added to the above mixture and is dissolved.
 The acid and quaternary ammonium compounds are dissolved in
water. This aqueous solution is added to the solution of dye with
stirring.
 This dye is investigated for the effects of quaternary ammonium compound, pH,
aldehydes and alcohols additions.
 Now the viscosity of the dye is adjusted by adding hydrophilic colloids like
methylcellulose, natural gum etc.
 The viscosity of the colourant is increased by the addition of non-ionic thickener
in its composition .The addition of amphoteric surfactant in the colourant
accompanied by basic dyes.
 SUNSCREEN

INTRODUCTION
Sunscreen, also known as sunblock, is a lotion, spray, gel, foam (such as an expanded
foam lotion or whipped lotion), stick or other topical product that absorbs or reflects
some of the sun's ultraviolet (UV) radiation and thus helps protect against sunburn.
Diligent use of sunscreen can also slow or temporarily prevent the development of
wrinkles, dark spots and sagging skin.’
Depending on the mode of action, sunscreens can be classified into physical
sunscreens (i.e., zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which stay on the surface of the skin
and mainly deflect the sunlight) or chemical sunscreens (i.e., UV organic filters,
which absorb the UV light).
Medical organizations such as the American Cancer Society recommend the use of
sunscreen because it aids in the prevention of squamous cell carcinomas. The routine
use of sunscreens may also reduce the risk of melanoma.
Sunscreens are commonly rated and labeled with a sun protection factor (SPF) that
measures the fraction of sunburn-producing UV rays that reach the skin. Other rating
systems indicate the degree of protection from non-burning UVA radiation.
Sunscreens are designed to remain effective at original strength for up to three years,
and are typically of doubtful value after that period.

UV filters and absorbers are supplied as dry powder or pre-dispersed in either oil or
aqueous bases. Depending on raw material type and formulation requirements these
"micronized oxides" are dispersed into the appropriate phase or added to the product
once the emulsion has been formed.
ACTIVE INGREDIENT
•Sunscreens contain one or more of the following active ingredients, whichare either
organic or mineral in nature.
•Following are the FDA approved active ingredient in sunscreen:

MEASUREMENT OF PROTECTION
•The sun protection factor (SPF rating, introduced in 1974) is a measure of thefraction
of sunburn-producing UV rays that reach the skin.
•Sun Protection Factor is a measure of how well a sunscreen will protect skinfrom
UVB rays, the kind of radiation that causes sunburn, damages skin, andcan contribute
to skin cancer.
•If your skin would normally burn after 10 minutes in the sun, applying an SPF15
sunscreen would allow you to stay in the sun without burning forapproximately
150 minutes (a factor of 15 times longer).
•Now a days, the sunscreen is available in the market with 50 SPF.
•For best protection, experts recommend using a minimum SPF sunscreen of15,
applying the proper amount (2mg/cm2 of skin, or about one ounce for fullbody
coverage).
USES
•Sunscreens are used to protect the skin from the harmful effects of the sun.
•They help to prevent sunburn and premature aging (such as wrinkles, leathery skin).
•Sunscreens also help to decrease the risk of skin cancer and also of sunburn-like skin
reactions (sun sensitivity) caused by some medications.
•Wearing sunscreen does not mean that you can stay out longer in the sun.
Sunscreens cannot protect against all of the sun's radiation.
•The active ingredients in sunscreens work either by absorbing the sun's
ultraviolet (UV) radiation, preventing it from reaching the deeper layers of the
skin, or by reflecting the radiation.

LABELING CONDITION
•Sunscreen should be stored at room temperature, between 15 and 30 degrees Celsius
•It should be kept in a dark space to prevent light from causing the ingredients to
separate.
•For external use only.
•Do not use on damaged or broken skin.
•When using this product keep out of eyes. Rinse with water to remove.
•Stop use and ask a doctor if rash occurs.
•Keep out of reach of children.

DIRECTION
1. Non-Water Resistant Product:
•Apply liberally 15 minutes before sun exposure
•Use a water resistant sunscreen if swimming or sweating
•Reapply at least every 2 hours
•Children under 6 months: Ask a doctor
2. Water Resistant Product:
•Apply liberally 15 minutes before sun exposure
•Children under 6 months: Ask a doctor
REAPPLY
•After 40 [or 80] minutes of swimming or sweating.
•Immediately after towel drying.
•At least every 2 hours