Knot Tying
Knot Tying
Knot Tying
1a. Bight
The free end of the rope, usually shorter. This is the end of the rope in which a
knot is being tied.
The part of the rope between the Running end and the Standing end (the end that
doesn't move, think of it as if you are standing on that end.)
A loop formed by passing the running end of a line under the standing part.
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1e. Overhand loop
A loop formed by passing the running end of a line over the standing part.
1f. Turn
A: Turn
B: Round turn
C: Two round turns
1g. Bend
A bend is used to tie two ropes together, as in the Sheetbend. Technically, even the
Reef knot is a bend.
1h. Hitch
A hitch is used to tie a rope to a spar, ring or post, such as the Clove hitch. Hitches
can also be used to tie one rope ONTO another rope, as in the Rolling hitch.
1i. Splice
A knot formed by interweaving strands of rope rather than whole lines. More time
consuming but usually stronger than simple knots.
1j. Whipping
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2. Know how to care for rope.
3. Describe the difference between laid rope and braided rope and list three
uses of each.
In laid rope, three bundles of fiber or twine are twisted in the same direction,
placed close to each other, and allowed to twist together. In braided rope, the
fibers are woven together, often around some core material.
1. Repels water.
2. Able to withstand immense strain.
3. Can be spliced with standard techniques.
4b. Sisal
Sisal is valued for cordage use because of its strength, durability, ability to stretch,
affinity for certain dyestuffs, and resistance to deterioration in saltwater. Sisal ropes
and twines are widely employed for marine, agricultural (bailing twine), and general
industrial use. Sisal fibers are smooth, straight and yellow and can be long or short.
4c. Nylon
Nylon rope is often white, but any color is possible. It has a smooth, silky feeling
to it, and it coils easily. Nylon rope does not float in water. It is a synthetic-fiber
rope.
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4d. Polypropylene
Polypropylene rope is most often yellow, though any color is possible. It is often
used in marine applications because it floats in water. The rope is sometimes
difficult to tie as it is somewhat stiff and brittle. It is a synthetic-fiber rope. The
easiest way to make an initial identification of a rope is to visit a hardware store
where rope is sold. The packaging will tell you what the rope is made of. If you
want to be sure, buy some of each type (with the labeling) or examine it closely in
the store.
Improved abrasion-resistance
Better UV-resistance
Lighter
Length does not vary as much when wet
Rot-resistant
Disadvantages
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6b. Eye splice
Eye splice
Use: The eye splice is the best method of creating a permanent loop in the
end of multi stranded rope by means of rope splicing. The ends of the rope
are tucked (plaited) back into the standing end to form the loop. Originally
this splice was described with each end being tucked only about three times.
When the splice was made in tarred hemp or cotton this was reasonably safe.
With modern synthetic ropes, five complete tucks is a minimum and
additional tucks are recommended for critical loads.
How to tie:
The ends of the rope are first wrapped in tape or heated with a flame to
prevent each end from fraying completely. The rope is unlayed for a distance
equal to three times the diameter for each "tuck", e.g., for five tucks in half
inch rope, undo about 7.5 inches. Wrap the rope at that point to prevent it
unwinding further. Form the loop and plait the three ends back against the
twist of the rope. Practice is required to keep each end retaining its twist and
lie neatly.
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6d. Finish the end of a rope with a double crown, whipping, or a Matthew
Walker's knot.
Double crown knot
Use: A double crown knot is a decorative knot tied on the end of a laid rope
to prevent it from unraveling.
How to tie:
Common whipping
Use: The common whipping is the simplest type of whipping knot, a series
of knots intended to stop a rope from unraveling. As it can slip off of the
rope easily, the common whipping should not be used for rope ends that will
be handled. This whipping knot is also called 'wolf' whipping in some parts of
the world.
The benefit of a common whipping is that no tools are necessary and the rope
does not need to be unlayered. The problem is that it will slide off the end of
the rope with little provocation. Other whippings avoid this by interweaving
the whipping with the strands of the rope and creating friction with the
strands to avoid slipping.
Normally a natural fiber rope is whipped with twine. The size of the rope
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dictates the size of the twine. Any twine can be used, but tarred two strand
hemp (marline) is preferred. Artificial-fiber ropes should have their ends fused
by heat rather than whipped to prevent unraveling.
How to tie:
The rope should be whipped a short distance (One and a half times the
diameter) from its end.
Lay the head of the twine along the rope, make a bight back along the rope
Begin wrapping the twine around the rope and bight of twine securely. Wrap
until the whipping is one and a half times wider than the rope is thick.
Cut the twine flush with the edges of the whipping and the rope end not less
than half its width from the whipping to give the rope end a finished look
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Use: A Matthew Walker knot is a decorative knot that is used to keep the
end of a rope from fraying. It is tied by unraveling the strands of a twisted
rope, knotting the strands together, then laying up the strands together again.
It may also be tied using several separate cords, in which case it keeps the
cords together in a bundle.
How to tie:
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the previously-formed loops in order to contain all of the other strands in its
loop. When tightening, it may help to roll the knot along the bundle, especially
when using only two strands. The final effect is a spiral knot vaguely
resembling a section of a barber's pole.
Rope-making apparatus
Making rope requires some simple apparatus which you can make yourself easily
enough. The first apparatus (we'll call it the twister) is used for twisting three strands
of twine (or smaller rope). When making the twister, clamp the two boards that
form the handles together tightly and drill three holes through both at the same
time. This will ensure that they line up. The hook/crank portion of the twister can
be made from coat hanger wire. First make the two 90° bends in the center, then
pass them through the holes in the handles. Finally, form the hooks on one end
and the other 90° bend on the other. (This final bend prevents the crank from
slipping out of the holes in the handle).
As the strands are twisted, they will tend to grab one another and twist together.
To make rope, this tendency has to be controlled. This is done with a second
apparatus (we'll call it the separator). It consists of a board with three holes drilled in
it, forming the points of an equilateral triangle. These points should be at least six
inches away from one another, and should be large enough to pass the strands of
twine through.
To make rope, cut three pieces of twine about 33% longer than the desired rope.
Pass each strand through a hole in the separator, then tie a non-slip loop in the end
of each (a figure-eight on a bight works well for this). We will call this end of the
strands the free end. Slip these loops over a hook of some sort, and pull the strands
straight. Bunch the ends opposite the loops together, and tie them off, again in a
loop (and again, a figure-eight on a bight works well for this). We will call this end
the bound end. Make sure that the three strands are the same length from one loop
to the other. Hand the bound end to a helper, then attach the loops on the free
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end to the hooks on the twister. Pull the twister away from the bound end (still
affixed firmly to another hook) until the strands are straight and tight. Then slide
the separator towards the common end. Start cranking the twister so that the
hooks rotate. As you crank, your helper will allow the three strands on his side of
the separator to twist together. As they do this, the helper will slide the separator
towards you, going only as fast as the strands bind to one another. Be careful to
keep the strands tight as you do this so that they do not bind to one another on
your end of the separator. Continue twisting until the separator reaches the twister.
Then tie a knot in the free end of the rope, unhook it from the twister, and slide
the separator off. Tie a stopper knot, or bind the end with tape. Then cut off the
few inches of untwisted strand that remain (or make a back splice). Finish the
opposite end in the same manner. Voilá! You now have a rope!
Guide to making rope from natural materials and no tools. Another technique.
8. From memory tie at least 20 of the following knots and know their
common uses and limitations. Demonstrate how they are used.
8a. Anchor bend
Anchor bend
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Use: The Anchor Bend is a knot used for attaching a rope to a ring or similar
termination. The round turn and tight application help keep the rope from
chafing.
How to tie:
8b. Bowline
Bowline
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Use: This knot doesn't jam or slip when tied properly. It can be tied around a
person's waist and used to lift him, because the loop will not tighten under
load. In sailing, the bowline is used to tie a halyard to a sail head.
How to tie:
1. Make the overhand loop with the end held toward you, then pass end
through loop.
2. Now pass end up behind the standing part, then down through the
loop again.
3. Draw up tight.
Bowline on a bight
Use: This makes a secure loop in the middle of a rope which does not slip.
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How to tie:
A bight is the middle part of the rope (not the ends)
Alpine butterfly
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Use: The Butterfly Loop has a high breaking strength and is regarded by
mountaineers as one of the strongest knots to attach climbers to the middle of
a rope, such that they have room to move around even when the main rope
goes tight, and they can be supported in either direction from the main rope.
The loop is typically attached to a climbing harness by carabiner. It can also be
used to isolate a worn section of rope, where the knot is tied such that the
worn section is used for the center of the loop.
Carrick bend
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Use: The Carrick bend is used for joining two lines. It is particularly
appropriate for very heavy rope or cable that is too large and stiff to easily be
formed into other common bends. It will not jam even after carrying a
significant load or being soaked with water. The Carrick bend's aesthetically
pleasing interwoven and symmetrical shape has also made it popular for
decorative purposes.
In the interest of making the Carrick bend easier to untie, especially when tied
in extremely large rope, the ends may be seized to prevent the knot from
collapsing when load is applied. This practice also keeps the knot's profile
flatter and can ease its passage over capstans or winches.
The ends are traditionally seized to their standing part using a Round seizing.
For expediency, a series of double constrictor knots, drawn very tight, may
also be used. When seizing the Carrick bend, both ends must be secured to
their standing parts or the bend will slip.
Cat's paw
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Use: The Cat's paw is used for connecting a rope to an object.
How to tie:
Method 1
Form a bight in the middle of the line, and pull it back over itself like a
girth hitch. This forms two loops, turned in opposite directions. Give each
loop one more full turn in the direction that will tend to tighten it (the
wrong direction will undo the loop completely). Pass both loops over the
hook, rail or post and pull tight, taking care to push the bight up snugly
against the turns.
Method 2
If working end of the line has an eye in it, and the standing end is
accessible, the knot can be tied to a closed ring, another eye, or a rail
with inaccessible ends, as follows. Pass the eye around the ring or rail,
then pass the standing end through its own eye (this effectively forms a
girth hitch). Then pass the standing end through the eye again, and pull
up tight, taking care to push the bight up snugly against the turns.
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When using the cat's paw to join two eyes, this process may be
repeated several times to give several turns - as many as five in a fine
fishing monofilament. Then when tightened, instead of pulling the
bight up against the turns, both eyes are pulled equally, to make neat
coils of turns in both eyes, meeting halfway between them.
Clove hitch
Use: This knot is the "general utility" hitch for when you need a quick, simple
method of fastening a rope around a post, spar or stake (like tying wicks to
sticks in Candle Making) or another rope (as in Macramé)
How to tie:
1. Make a turn with the rope around the object and over itself.
2. Take a second turn with the rope around the object.
3. Pull the end up under the second turn so it is between the rope and the
object. Tighten by pulling on both ends.
8h
Constrictor knot
Constrictor Knot
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Use: The Constrictor knot is one of the most effective binding knots. Simple
and secure, it is a harsh knot which can be difficult or impossible to untie
once tightened. It is made similarly to a clove hitch but with one end passed
under the other, forming an overhand knot under a riding turn. Because this
knot will not slip when tied around a stick, it is an excellent knot for making a
rope ladder.
How to tie:
1. Make a turn around the object and bring the working end back over the
standing part.
2. Continue around behind the object.
3. Pass the working end over the standing part and then under the riding
turn and standing part, forming an overhand knot under a riding turn.
4. Be sure the ends emerge between the two turns as shown. Pull firmly
on the ends to tighten.
Crown Knot
Use: Used a component in a back splice and in the double crown knot. Can
be used to temporarily prevent the ends of a laid rope from unraveling.
How to tie:
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1. Make a constriction around the rope about 7.5 cm from the end.
You can constrict it by tying a constrictor knot around the rope with a
bit of twine, or you can tape it.
2. Unravel the end of the rope all the way to the constriction.
3. Bind the ends of the strands with tape to keep them from unraveling.
4. Double one strand (strand A) over itself and lay it between the other
two (strands B and C), leaving a loop in its center.
5. Pull strand B over the end of strand A and lay it between strands A and
C.
6. Pass strand C through the loop made in strand A.
7. Tighten all three strands carefully.
Double bowline
How to tie:
1. Make a loop with the running end crossing over the standing end.
2. Make a larger loop that passes over the first loop, again with the
running end passing over the standing end.
3. Pass the running end through the first loop from the bottom.
4. Wrap the running end behind the standing end, and back down
through the first loop.
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5. Tighten
Use: The double sheet bend or double becket bend is a strong knot used
to tie two ropes (usually of different thicknesses or rigidity) together. It is a
doubled version of the sheet bend.
How to tie:
To tie the double sheet bend, start by making a bight in the larger line. Pass
the working end of the smaller line up through the bight, around behind the
bight, and beneath the loop in the smaller line (that's a sheet bend). Then once
again, pass the working end along the same path, around behind the bight and
beneath the loop in the smaller line.
WARNING: As with the standard sheet bend, the two free ends should end
up on the same side of the knot. If they do not, a left-handed double sheet
bend results, which is much weaker.
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8l. Figure eight
Figure Eight
Use: This knot is ideal for keeping the end of a rope from running out of
tackle or pulley.
How to tie:
1. Make underhand loop, bringing end around and over the standing part.
2. Pass end under, then up through the loop.
3. Draw up tight.
Fisherman's knot
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overhand knots wrapped around each other. It works well for joining thin,
stiff, or slippery lines. It requires little dexterity to tie, so is often used in
stubborn materials. When tightened, it becomes fairly compact, and the free
ends can be cropped very close to the knot. These qualities make it very useful
for fishing line--it is less likely to jam a fishing rod than many other bends,
and is easier to tie with cold, wet hands.
How to tie:
To tie the fisherman's knot, lay the two ends to be tied alongside each other
and facing opposite ways. Tie an overhand knot on the first rope and pass the
second rope through the loop formed. Tighten the overhand knot, to prevent
the line inside it from flopping around. Then tie another overhand knot on
the second rope with the first rope passing through it.
Fisherman's loop
Use: The fisherman's loop makes a non-slip loop at the end of a rope.
How to tie:This knot is the same as a fisherman's bend, except that instead of
joining two ropes together, a single rope is doubled over and then joined to
itself forming a loop.
Use: The halter hitch, sometimes called a hitching tie is used to tie the lead
rope, which is attached to a horse's halter (or to a boat), to a post or hitching
rail. The benefit of the halter hitch is that it can be released by pulling on one
end of the rope. Even if there is tension on the horse-side of the rope it can
still be release with ease.
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How to tie:
Pass the working end of the rope over the standing part.
Create a bight in the working end of the rope. The bight is then passed in
front of the main loop and into the second loop.
Tighten the hitch by pulling on the standing end and the bight. The hitch can
be finished by passing the working end through the bight.
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8p
Hunter's bend
Hunter's bend
Use: The Hunter's bend (aka Rigger's bend) is used to join two lines. It
consists of interlocking overhand knots, and can jam under moderate strain.
Hunter's bend is one of the most recent knots to be discovered. It appeared
on the front page of The Times in 1978 and was credited to Dr. Edward
Hunter. Dr. Hunter used it for years to tie broken shoelaces before
discovering its originality through a friend in the 1970s. When it appeared on
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the front page, it led to much publicity for the knot and also to the foundation
of the International Guild of Knot Tyers. However, the knot was presented
in Knots for Mountaineering by Phil Smith ca. 1956.
Lariat
Use: A lariat knot is the loop knot commonly used in a lasso. Its round
shape, especially when tied in stiff rope, helps it slide freely along the rope it is
tied around.
How to tie:
Lark's head
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Use: The lark's head is a knot (specifically, a hitch). Also called a cow hitch,
it comprises two half-hitches tied in opposing directions. The cow hitch is
often used to connect loop-ended lanyards to handheld electronic equipment,
since it can be tied without access to the ends of the fastening loop.
How to tie:
When both the standing parts of the rope are available, the cow hitch can be
tied in the following manner:
1. Form a bight and pass it through the ring from the underneath.
2. Pull the head of the bight downwards, and reach through it, grabbing
both standing parts of the rope.
3. Pull both standing parts of the rope through the bight.
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Use: The Man harness is a knot with a loop on the bight for non-critical
purposes. This knot is used when multiple people are to pull a load. Typically
one end of the rope is tied to a load, and one man harness knot per puller will
be tied along its length. Each loop is then pulled by a different person.
How to tie:
WARNING: The Man harness knot must have the loop loaded or it will slip
and contract easily.
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8t. Miller's knot
Miller's knot
Use: A Miller's knot (also Sack knot or Bag knot) is a binding knot used to
secure the opening of a sack or bag. Historically, large sacks often contained
grains; thus the association of these knots with the miller's trade. Several knots
are known interchangably by these three names. Several variations are shown
here.
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This knot is also a useful hitch and is known by the name Ground-line hitch
when used for that purpose.
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Packer's knot
Use: The Packer's Knot is a binding knot usually used in smaller line. This
knot is sometimes used in baling and in parcel tying.
How to tie:
1. Make a figure eight not near the standing end of the rope. Wrap the
running end around the "parcel" and pass it through the top loop of the
"eight" following the same path as standing end.
2. Make a loop in the running end and pass the standing end through it.
3. Tighten.
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8v. Pipe hitch
Pipe hitch
Use: The pipe hitch is used for hoisting tubular objects (such as pipes).
How to tie:
1. Make four or five turns around the pipe with the rope.
2. Bring the running end back to the standing part.
3. Tie two half-hitches around the standing part.
Prusik knot
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Use: A Prusik (aka Prussik or Prussic) is a friction hitch used in climbing,
canyoneering, caving, rope rescue and by arborists to grab a rope (sometimes
referred to as a rope-grab). The term Prusik is used both for the knot, for the
loops of cord, and for the action (to prusik).
A Prusik rope is a circular loop with a circumference of 20 to 100 cm
depending on its intended use. Two Prusik ropes are tied to another rope
which is anchored above. When the Prusik knot is under tension, it grabs the
rope to which it is tied. When not under tension, it is easily moved. The
climber places one foot into each loop, and shifts all of his or her weight to
one of them, releasing the tension on the other. The rope without tension is
then slid upwards on the vertical rope. The climber then shifts his or her
weight to the other loop and slides the first one up. This is repeated until the
rope has been ascended. Prusiks will work around two ropes, even two ropes
of different diameters. Prusiks provide a high-strength and relatively fail-safe
(i.e., they will slip before damaging the rope or breaking) attachment, and are
used in some rope-rescue techniques. Prusiks are good to use in hauling
systems where multiple rope-grabs may be needed, and where mechanical
rope-grabs are not available.
Although the Prusik Climb technique may be called old-school by some, the
US Army still includes it in its annual Best Ranger competition. Rangers in the
competition routinely make it up a 90 foot rope in under a minute.
How to tie:
The Prusik is tied by wrapping the prusik loop around the rope a number of
times (depending on the materials, but usually 3-5 times), and then back
through itself, forming a barrel around the rope, with a tail hanging out the
middle. When the tail is weighted the turns tighten around the main rope and
grab. When weight is removed the loop can be slid along the rope by placing a
hand directly on the barrel and pushing. The trick is, if it grabs well, then it is
hard to slide along the rope. Breaking the Prusik free from the rope after it
has been weighted can be difficult, and is easiest done by pushing the bow,
being the loop of cord which runs from the top wrap, over the knot to the
bottom wrap, along the tail a little. This loosens the grip of the hitch and
makes movement easier.
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Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
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8x. Sheepshank
Sheepshank
Sheetbend
Use: The sheet bend knot is excellent for joining two ropes together,
especially if the two ropes are not the same size. When tied properly, it will
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not come undone, and it is easy to untie. It is very similar to the bowline.
How to tie:
1. Make a bight at the end of the larger rope (if they are not the same
size).
2. Run the end of the smaller rope through the bight, entering from the
bottom.
3. Wrap the end of small rope around the back of the large rope, crossing
the short end of the large rope first.
4. Tuck the end of the short rope under itself, on top of the bight.
Slip knot
Use: A slip knot is one that will tighten under load, and which can be easily
untied by pulling on the running end. This knot is typically a component of
more complicated knots, and is generally not used by itself.
How to tie:
A slip knot can be tied by starting an overhand knot, but instead of passing
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the running end through the loop, pass a bight through instead.
WARNING: If tied as shown in the illustration, the running end (on the
right) will pull through the loop if even the slightest load is applied to the
standing end (on the left). If one reverses the standing end and running ends
in the illustration, the knot is far more stable. As shown, the knot will hold a
load on the running end, but not on the standing end.
Slipped half-hitch
Begin as for a clove hitch, but instead of passing the end of the line through
the loop in the final step, pass a bight instead, leaving the end on the original
side. Pulling on this end will release the hitch - if tied in a gasket, this will
quickly release the sail.
WARNING: Never use this knot in a critical situation. It comes untied at the
slightest provocation.
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8bb. Slipped sheet bend
Use: The slipped sheet bend is used in non-critical situations for temporarily
joining two ropes.
How to tie:
Start the same as in tying a regular sheet bend, only pass a bight (light blue in
the illustration) under the last rope (dark blue) instead of passing the running
end under.
WARNING: The slightest tug on the running end will untie this
knot instantly - even if the knot is under load.
Square Knot
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Use: Also known as a Reef knot, the Square Knot is easily learned and useful
for many situations. It is most commonly used to tie two lines together at the
ends. This knot is used at sea in reefing and furling sails. It is used in first aid
to tie off a bandage or a sling because the knot lies flat.
How to tie:
Stevedore knot
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Finished stevedore knot
Strangle knot
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Use: The Strangle knot is a simple binding knot. Similar to the constrictor
knot, it also features an overhand knot under a riding turn. The difference is
that the ends emerge at the outside edges, rather than between the turns as for
a constrictor. This knot is actually a rearranged double overhand knot and
makes up each half of the double fisherman's knot. When tightened, it is very
slip-resistant. It is ideal for constructing a pilot ladder (like a rope ladder, but
with wooden rungs).
Use: The surgeon's knot is similar to a square knot, except that the first stage
is doubled. This helps the knot stay tight while it is being tied.
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Taut-line hitch
Use: The Taut-Line Hitch is an adjustable loop knot for use on lines under
tension. It is useful when the length of a line will need to be periodically
adjusted in order to maintain tension. It is made by tying a Rolling hitch
around the standing part after passing around an anchor object. Tension is
maintained by sliding the hitch to adjust size of the loop, thus changing the
effective length of the standing part without retying the knot. When under
tension, however, the knot will grip the cord and will be difficult to cause to
slip.
1. Pass the working end around the anchor object. Bring it back along
side of the standing part and make a half-hitch around the standing
part.
2. Continue with another wrap inside the loop, effectively making a round
turn around the standing part.
3. Complete with a half-hitch outside the loop, made in the same direction
as the first two wraps, as for a clove hitch.
4. Dress by snugging the hitch firmly around the standing part. Load
slowly and adjust as necessary.
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Timber hitch
Use: The timber hitch is a knot used to attach a single length of rope to a
piece of wood. This knot is easily undone after use.
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How to tie:
1. To make the knot, pass the rope completely around the wood.
2. Pass the running end around the standing part, then through the loop
that you have just formed.
3. Make three turns around the loop then pull on the standing part to
tighten.
4. Take care that you double the rope back on itself before making the
three turns, or it won't hold.
5. Three are recommended for natural rope such as jute, whereas five
turns are needed on synthetic rope like nylon.
This knot is also known as the Bowyer's Knot as it is used to attach the lower
end of the bowstring to the bottom limb on an English Longbow.
8ii
Two half hitches
Use: This reliable knot is quickly tied and is the hitch most often used in
mooring.
How to tie:
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