ASSIGNMENT 2:

CAPSULE RANGE &

TECH PACKS
FASHION PRODUCT SPECIFICATION - MANU2490
 GROUP 9
TEAM MEMBERS

TRAN ANH THU - S3978264

TU LE KHANH - S3979060
VIDURSHINI SARAVANABAWAN -S4019317
 GROUP

9
TABLE OF
CONTENTS

01 TECH PACK FOR THE CULT ORIGINAL SHIRTS

02 TECH PACK FOR ZARA SHIRTS

03 QUALITY ANALYSIS

04 FASHION TRENDS AND STYLES

05 CARBON FOOT PRNT ANALYSIS

06 INDUSTRY REPORT

07 REFERENCES
 TECH PACK FOR THE
CULT ORIGINAL SHIRTS
 Specification Pack (1)
Design Specification

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts with Blue Sleeves. Date: 08/01/2024

Front

Back

1. Cut one way for all sizes.

2. Sewing thread color must be the same as the fabric.
3. A white buttons will be place inside near the side seam, on the wash and care label (in
Make
case if the consumers need it).
Details 4. Side seams sewn using 516 (401+504) Five thread full Safety Stitch, but the finishing
edges of the side seam sewn using Mock-Safety Stitch 512.
5. 2/3 of the bottom of the sleeves is blue and the top of the sleeves is white.

Sewing thread
One front pocket bag (on the right side).
Trim Details Brand label (Brand name, size) is at the center and put below the collar band
Wash and Care label (country of origin, wash and care instruction with symbols).
Six center front buttons

XS, S, M, L, XL
Sizes US sizes: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10
UK sizes: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14
 Specification Pack (2)
Size Specification

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts with Blue Sleeves. Date: 08/01/2024

 Specification Pack (3)
Size Specification

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts with Blue Sleeves. Date: 08/01/2024

Size Measurements - All Measurements Are In cm

Tolerance
Code Components XS S M L XL
+/-

A Center Front Length 2 59.9 61.9 63.9 65.9 67.9

B Center Back Length 2 68 70 72 74 76

C Front Length (from High Point Shoulder) 1 62.3 65.3 68.3 71.3 74.3

D Shoulder Breadth 0.5 49.3 49.8 50.3 50.8 51.3

E Chest 5 96.2 101.2 106.2 111.2 116.2

F Yoke (Center Length) 0 9.7 9.7 10.2 10.2 10.7

G Waist (10cm from underarm) 5 95.4 100.4 105.4 110.4 115.4

H Cuff Hem 0.5 14.3 14.3 14.8 14.8 15.3

I Patch Pocket Vertical (Center) 0 13.4 13.4 13.9 13.9 14.4

J Patch Pocket Width (Center) 0 13.8 13.8 14.3 14.3 14.8

K Collar Band Circumferences 0 41.5 42 42.5 43 43.5

L Hem 5 105.6 110.6 115.6 120.6 125.6

M Armhole 2 41 43 45 47 49

N Sleeve Length from Top Armhole 1 54 55 56 57 58

O Sleeve Length from Underarm 1 50.4 51.4 52.4 53.4 54.4

P Collar Height (Center) 0 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5

Q Side Seam 1 28 29 30 31 32
 Specification Pack (4)
Size Specification (Lay Plan)
pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts with Blue Sleeves. Date: 08/01/2024

 Specification Pack (5)
Construction
pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts with Blue Sleeves. Date: 08/01/2024

 Specification Pack (6)
Construction (Seam Details)
pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts with Blue Sleeves. Date: 08/01/2024

Seam Drawing Using Adobe

Seam Type Seam Code Placement
Illustrator

Lapped Seam LSe (1.22.01) Collar Stand Band (1)

Superimposed seam SSe (1.06.02) Collar

Edge Finishing EFb (6.03.01) Hem

Superimposed seam SSq (2.42.04) Collar Stand Band (2)

Superimposed seam SSa (1.01) Side Seam

Edge Finishing EFb (6.03.01) Front Placket

Lapped Seam LSd (5.31.01) Attaching Patch Pocket

Lapped seam LSf Attaching Yoke

Edge Finishing C100-1 + SE Armhole

Cuff Seam, Sleeve

Bound Seam BSc (3.05.01)
Placket

Lapped Seam LSe (1.22.01) Shoulder Seam

 Specification Pack (7)
Construction (Trim Details)
pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts with Blue Sleeves. Date: 08/01/2024

4
2

Trim Type Placement Colour Quantity

1.At the center front

length and place in
Plastic Buttons the middle of the PANTONE 11-0601 TCX 6
front placket
(outside).

2. Button place at
Button at the cuff PANTONE 16-4019 TCX 2
the back side

3. At the center and

Brand Label underneath the PANTONE 11-0103 TCX 1
collar band (inside).

4. Place on the side

seam, near the
Wash and Care Label PANTONE 19-4004 TCX 1
finishing edge
(inside)
 Specification Pack (8)
Construction (Stitching Details) pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts with Blue Sleeves. Date: 08/01/2024

Stitch Type Placement Seam Width Stitch Length

1, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12,

Lockstitch 301 N/A 0.3 cm
13, 14

ZigZag Lockstitch 304 5, 15 1.5 cm 0. 077 cm

Five Thread full Safety Stitch -

2, 3, 4, 8 N/A 0.28 cm
516 (401+504)
 Specification Pack (9)
Bill of Materials (BOM) pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts w ith Blue Sleeves. Date: 08/01/2024

Pantone Total Cost

Component Code Description Supplier Size Quantity
Colour (VND)

PANTONE
100.000
11-0601 Fashion
White and VND/m
CF TCX, Fabrics in
Blue Cotton 100% Cotton N/A 1.8 m Total
619 PANTONE Colombo,
Fabric 180.000
16-4019 Sri Lanka
VND
TCX

PANTONE
11-0601 Air Woven 1.000 VND
Plastics (white 1 cm
TCX, Lanka Label / button
Buttons FB462 and blue (diamete 8
PANTONE Ltd in Sri Total:
buttons) r)
16-4019 Lanka 8.000 VND
TCX

Air Woven
PANTONE
Herringbone Lanka Label 7.1 cm x
Brand Label BL 236 11-0103 1 2.500 VND
Twill fabric Ltd in Sri 1.5 cm
TCX
Lanka

Air Woven
PANTONE
Wash and WCL 100% Lanka Label 3.4 cm x
19-4004 1 2.500 VND
Care Label 732 Polyester Ltd in Sri 2.3 cm
TCX
Lanka

PANTONE
11-0601
Thread (white TR TCX, Sewing Tan Dinh 10.000
N/A 1 piled
and blue) 3014 PANTONE Thread Market VND
14-4214
TCX
 Specification Pack (10)
Image Overview
pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts with Blue Sleeves. Date: 08/01/2024

Front View

Back View

Wash and Care Label

Buttons

Brand Label
Sewing Threads
TECH PACK FOR ZARA
SHIRTS
(BRANDED)
 Specification Pack (1)
Design Specification
pn
Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts Date: 08/01/2024

Front

Back

1. Cut the fabric one way for all sizes

2. Sewing thread color must be the same as the fabric.
Make
3. Zara’s black brand label place at the center and below the collar band
Details 4. Side seams, armholes are sewn using 301 Lockstitch and 504 Overedge and Safety
Stitch.

Sewing thread
Brand label (Brand name, size, country of origin)
Trim Details Wash and Care label (composition of fabric, care instruction).
Five center front buttons
Two buttons on the cuff and one button on the sleeve placket

S, M, L, XL, XXL
Sizes
MEX sizes: 26, 28, 30, 32, 34
 Specification Pack (2)
Size Specification
pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts Date: 08/01/2024

 Specification Pack (3)
Size Specification
pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts Date: 08/01/2024

Size Measurements - All Measurements Are In cm

Tolerance
Code Components S M L XL XXL
+/-

A Center Front Length 1 60.1 61.1 62.1 63.1 64.1

B Center Back Length 1 67.5 68.5 69.5 70.5 71.5

C Front Length (from High Point Shoulder) 1 66.3 67.3 68.3 69.3 70.3

D Shoulder Breadth 0.5 66.9 67.4 67.9 68.4 68.9

E Bust 5 112.8 117.8 122,8 127.8 132.8

F Yoke (Center Length) 0.5 19.3 19.8 19.8 20.3 20.3

G Waist (8cm from underarm) 5 114 119 124 129 134

H Cuff Width 0.5 12 12.5 13 13.5 14

I Collar Band Circumferences 0 46 46 46 46 46

J Collar height 0 5.6 5.6 5.6 5.6 5.6

K Placket length 0 14.5 14.5 14.5 14.5 14.5

L Hem 5 114.2 119.2 124.2 129.2 134.2

M Armhole 1 46 47 47 48 48

N Sleeve Length from Top Armhole 1 46.7 47.2 47.7 48.2 48.7

O Sleeve Length from Underarm 1 39 39.5 40 40.5 41

P Side Seam 1 28.5 29.5 30.5 31.5 32.5

 Specification Pack (4)
Size Specification (Lay Plan)
pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts Date: 08/01/2024

Pattern Symbol Pattern Name Quantity

HF Half Front 2

HB Half Back 1

S Sleeve 2

TC Top Collar 2

CB Colllar Band 2

C Cuff 4

Y Yoke 1

SP Sleeve Plackets 2
 Specification Pack (5)
Construction (Seam Details)
pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts Date: 08/01/2024

 Specification Pack (6)
Construction (Seam Details)
pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts Date: 08/01/2024

Seam Drawing Using Adobe

Seam Type Seam Code Placement
Illustrator

Lapped Seam LSe (1.22.01) Collar Stand Band (1)

Superimposed seam SSe (1.06.02) Collar

Edge Finishing EFb (6.03.01) Hem

Lapped Seam LSe (1.22.01) Collar Stand Band (2)

Superimposed seam SSa (1.01) Side Seam

Edge Finishing EFb (6.03.01) Front Placket

Lapped seam SSe (1.06.02) Attaching Yoke

Edge Finishing C100 -1 +SE Armhole

Bound Seam BSc (3.05.01) Sleeve Placket

Superimposed seam SSe (1.06.02) Shoulder Seam

Lapped Seam LSg (7.57.01) Cuff

 Specification Pack (7)
Construction (Trim Details)
pn
Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts . Date: 08/01/2024

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 1
Figure 4

Trim Type Placement Colour Quantity

See the figures 2

Plastic Buttons PANTONE 11-0104 TCX 11
and 3

Brand Label See the figure 1 PANTONE 19-4004 TCX 1

Information Label (wash and

See the figure 4 PANTONE 13-4108 TCX 1
care symbols)
 Specification Pack (8)
Construction (Stitching Details) pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts Date: 08/01/2024

Stitch Type Placement Seam Width Stitch Length

1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 9, 11, 12,
Lockstitch 301 N/A 0.2 cm
13, 16

ZigZag Lockstitch 304 5, 14 N/A 0.08 cm

504 -Three thread overedge 8, 10 N/A 0..27 cm

512 - Four Thread Mock Safety 15 N/A 0.29 cm

 Specification Pack (9)
Bill of Materials (BOM) pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts Date: 08/01/2024

Total
Pantone
Component Code Description Supplier Size Quantity Cost
Colour
(VND)

100.000
White PANTONE VND/m
Tan Dinh
Cotton CS 176 11-0601 100% Cotton 1.5 m 1.8 m Total:
Market
Fabric TCX 180.000
VND

2.000
VND /
PANTONE Plastic off-
Ban Co 0.9 cm button
Buttons BT 2919 11-0104 white cream 11 buttons
Market (diameter) Total:
TCX color
22.000
VND

PANTONE
19-4004 100% Tan Dinh 7.4 cm x 1 3.000
Brand Label BL 223 1 piece
TCX polyester Market cm VND
(Black)

100%
PANTONE
Information polyester, Tan Dinh 11.8 cm x 3.000
PCL 721 13-4108 1 piece
Label wash and care Market 2.3 cm VND
TCX
symbols

PANTONE
11-0601
Soai Kinh
TCX, Sewing 17.000
Thread TD 301 Lam N/A 1 piled
PANTONE Thread VND
Market
11-0107
TCX
 Specification Pack (10)
Image Overview
pn

Season: Spring/Summer 2024

Style: Shirts

Description: Women’s White Shirts Date: 08/01/2024

Front View

Back View

Zara’s Brand Label

Information label back and front ( wash and care

symbols)

Sewing Threads Buttons

 Figure 1: Moabite.com 2023, Zara Technical Sorona Dupont Shirt [photograph]

Quality
Analysis
 THE CULT ORIGINAL ZARA

PRICE $30 $60

FABRIC 100% cotton 100% cotton

CONSTRUCTION

TRIM DETAILS CLOSURE: The closure of the shirt CLOSURE: The closure of the shirt
includes six plastic white buttons, the includes five plastic off white
buttons are 1cm in diameter. The cream buttons, the buttons are
buttons of the center front is not very 0.9cm in diameter. The buttons of
easy to pass through the buttonhole the center front is easy to pass
and is attached to the shirt through through the buttonhole and is
two holes. The color of the button at attached to the shirt through four
the center front is the same color as holes which is more stable than
the garment fabric (PANTONE 11- the local brand shirt. The color of
0601 TCX) . The gap between each the button (PANTONE 11-0104
button is 8.5cm. TCX) at the center front is the
slightly different compared to
LABELS: The shirt has one brand label the garment fabric (PANTONE 11-
made of herringbone twill fabric and 0601 TCX). The gap between
wash-care label made of 100% each button is 8cm.
polyester. The brand label is in English,
and the wash and care instructions LABELS: The shirt has one brand
are label is in English with symbols. The label and wash-care label both
brand label includes the brand name made of 100% polyester. The
and size and is placed center of brand label is in English, and the
underneath the collar band. The wash- wash are label is in English and
care label includes country of origin other languages. The brand label
and wash-care instructions. includes the brand name, country
of origin and size and is placed
SEWING THREAD: White color center of underneath the collar
(PANTONE 11-0601 TCX) sewing band. The wash-care label
thread is used for the white parts of includes fabric composition and
the garment while blue color wash-care instructions.
(PANTONE 16-4019 TCX) sewing
thread for the sleeves. The thread is in SEWING THREAD: White color
not good quality as there is visible (PANTONE 11-0601 TCX) sewing
damage in regard to the sewing thread is used for the garment.
thread like worn outs and frays. The thread is in good quality as
there is no visible damage in
FRONT PATCH POCKET: The shirt has regard to the sewing thread.
one front patch pocket on the right
side of the shirt adding functionality to ZARA’s does not have front
the shirt. patch pocket.

STITCH TYPE: Lockstitch 301,

STITCH DETAILS
zigzag lockstitch 304 is the
STITCH TYPE: Lockstitch 301 is the primary stitch type used most
primary stitch type used on the shirt, part of the shirt and apart from it
zigzag lockstitch 304 for the the 504 - three thread over edge
buttonholes and apart from it the 516 for some part like side seam. 512
- five thread full safety stitch is also - four thread mock safety stitch is
used for the side seam. used for the shoulder.

STITCH LENGTH: The stitch length is STITCH LENGTH: The stitch length
longer than the ZARA shirt and the is shorter than The Cult Original
stitches are not evenly stitched. shirt and the stitches are evenly
stitched throughout the shirt.
STITCH TENSION: The tension of the
shirt is not well balanced, hence has STITCH TENSION: The tension of
result in a lot of puckering. the shirt is somewhat balanced,
hence has result in a few of
puckering.
 The seams are straight and neat
The seams are not straight and
at most points and strong seams
neatly done at most points and
throughout the shirt.
some parts of the shirt has stray
threads. The seams are not very
strong.

SEAM DETAILS SEAM FINISHING: 504 - Three

SEAM FINISHING: 516 - five thread
thread over edge and Lockstitch
full safety stitch for the side seam
301 is used throughout the whole
but 512 - Four thread mock safety
side seam and armhole part
stitch is used for the finishing edges
providing the shirt a clean and
of the side seam part providing it
secure finishing
an unprofessional finishing.

The design incorporates

The design incorporates thoughtful
thoughtful details such as the
details such as the matching pocket
well-coordinated trim elements
bag, two toned sleeves and well-
and even seams and stitches.
coordinated trim elements. The
The placement of the brand
placement of the brand label and
label and size label is strategic,
DESIGN size label is strategic, contributing
contributing to both functionality
to both functionality and aesthetics.
and aesthetics. The overall
The overall design appears to strike
design appears to strike a
a balance between classic and
balance between classic and
contemporary elements but the shirt
contemporary elements while
has fading effects.
also having a high-quality look.

The finishing touches, including

coordinated trim details, white The finishing touches, including
buttons, and clear labeling, coordinated trim details, white
contribute to a decent appearance. buttons, and clear labeling,
The attention to detail in the contribute to a polished and
FINISHING finishing needs more improvement refined appearance. The
for example the cuff of the sleeves is attention to detail in the finishing
stitched with one fabric giving it a enhances the overall quality and
less quality look and the sleeves are aesthetics of the shirt.
not stitched evenly and is
misconstructed.
 Figure 2: Shirt illustration in 1930s [image]

TREND
Analysis
and styles
 INTRODUCTION TO
SHIRTS

Shirts, a very common garment, have transcended

from practicality to a versatile canvas for personal
expression. Structurally, the shirt typically consists of a
collar, sleeves, and a front opening with buttons at
the center front (Oliver Wicks 2014). The evolution of
shirts in the market has witnessed has transformed
from their utilitarian origins to diverse styles today,
reflecting both past and present fashion
trends (Katherine H 2021) .

Figure 3: Tailorsworld.com 2023, Article of

menswear shirts [image]

Historically, shirts were primarily

undergarments, with societal norms shifting
shirts evolved into outerwear
(Sugama K 2023) The market for shirts
has expanded rapidly, accommodating
various styles, fabrics, designs and colours.
The textile industry has been introducing an
influx of innovative fabrics throughout, leading
to a wide range of options catering to
different preferences and styles of shirts.

Styles have transformed over time, from

formal dress shirts to casual, oversized, and
even bold prints. The shirt's role in fashion is
focal, in both professional and casual
wardrobes. Its importance lies both in
Figure 4: Jasper Conran n.d. , Vinatge shirt dress
functionality and look.
[image]

Looking to the future, the shirt is poised for a broader evolution as sustainability
gain prominence, and consumer preferences shift towards eco-conscious
choices. Shirts are expected to have a strong demand in high quality and
customization, despite the trends shifting to a casual setting (Statisa 2024).
 INDUSTRY OVERVIEW
The shirt industry is a highly competitive market influenced by a balance of
tradition and innovation. Competition makes brands continue to offer distinctive
designs, quality craftsmanship, and a timeless style.

Research and development (R&D) in this sector is mainly focus on fabrics, styles,
and sustainability. Innovations in fabric technology drive R&D efforts, with a focus
on materials brands are able to provide enhanced comfort, breathability, and
durability while maintaining a classy appearance (Images Business of Fashion
2022). Styles evolve to meet modern trends while preserving the look associated
with formal shirts. Sustainable practices, including the use of eco-friendly fabrics
and ethical manufacturing, have gained prominence in addressing consumer
concerns about environmental impact.

Supply chains play a significant role in aligning with consumer preferences. Brands
often adopt just-in-time production models, minimizing excess inventory and
responding swiftly to fast paced trends. Marketing strategies covered by both
digital platforms (most popular) and traditional channels, emphasizing the quality,
craftsmanship, and unique elements of the shirts (Statista 2024). Distribution
channels for shirts include flagship stores, high-end department stores, and e-
commerce platforms, ensuring a diverse and accessible market presence for the
consumers.

Figure 5: 1000logos.com n.d. , Brookes brothers logo [image]

Key players in this market include Brooks

Brothers, Eton, and Ralph Lauren. Brooks
Figure 6: 1000logo.Com n.d. , Ralph Lauren logo [image] Brothers, an iconic American brand,
emphasizes traditional craftsmanship and
quality. Eton, a Swedish brand, stands out
Figure 7: VTlogo.com 2021, Eton logo [image] for its innovative fabrics and
contemporary styles. Ralph Lauren, an
American luxury brand, combines classic
designs with a touch of modern flair,
catering to a sophisticated clientele.
Figure 8: 1000logos.com n.d. , Hugo Boss logo [image]

Figure 9: 1000logos.com n.d. , Thomas Pink logo[image]

 Psychographics
TARGET
Psychographic
SEGMENT Interest: the target segment values
sophistication, style, and a classy
appearance. They prefer clothing
that aligns with their self-image as
confident, successful individuals.
Values: This group appreciates the
fusion of tradition and modernity,
expressing interest in both classic
and contemporary designs.
Lifestyle: Consumers of this
segment include a balance
between work and leisure, with an
inclination towards social events
and networking.

Demographics
The target demographic for
shirts typically consists of adults
aged from 25-55
Suitable for all genders
Occupation: This group
includes working professionals,
executives, and individuals
engaged in formal and semi-
formal occupations and
younger generations who
prefer to add a hint of formal Geographics
aesthetics to their clothing
style. The target market spans across
Income levels is often urban and suburban locations
distributed among the middle with a primary focus on
to upper income class, metropolitan regions. Cities,
reflecting a capacity for financial hubs, and cultural
premium and quality products. centers are key geographical
locations.
Styles and tastes may vary
slightly based on cultural
influences and regional fashion
trends, but the overall appeal
of shirts has strong influence in
urban environments.
 Benefits
TARGET
SEGMENT The primary benefits for this target
segment revolve around quality,
style, and versatility.
Shirts provide a polished and
professional appearance,
enhancing the consumers’
confidence.
High-quality fabrics ensure
comfort during long hours, while
the diverse styles cater to different
occasions.
The target audience values
durability and longevity of
clothing, considering them as a
long-term investment.

Usages
Shirts are mostly worn in
professional settings, including
offices, business meetings, and
formal events.
Additionally, they also serve as
versatile wardrobe staples for
semi-formal occasions, dinners,
and social gatherings.
The usage of shirts extends beyond
work-related settings, offering a
classy appeal yet comfortable
attire for various events and
activities.

Figure 10: wwd.com 2018, Looks from Brooke

Brothers gallery [photograpgh]
 Concept:
The Autumn/Winter 2024/25 fashion trends are centered around a
theme of "Modern Elegance meets Urban Utility." This concept fuses
timeless sophistication with practical, contemporary elements
(Premeire Vision et al.2023). It is expected to see a fusion of tailored
silhouettes with functional details, creating a balance between
refined styles and the needs of a dynamic lifestyle.

Fiber and Yarn:

Natural fibers take center stage, with an emphasis on organic
cotton, wool, and luxurious blends of alpaca and cashmere.
Sustainable practices in sourcing and processing are prioritized.
Yarns showcase a mix of traditional craftsmanship and technological
innovation, incorporating recycled materials to align with the
industry's growing focus on eco-consciousness (Fashion Network et al
2023).

Construction and finish

Shirt construction leans towards versatile designs, offering layering
options for varying temperatures. Oversized and structured shirts with
utility-inspired details such as large pockets and adjustable features
dominate the scene. Intricate stitching and contrast panels enhance
the visual appeal, showcasing a meticulous attention to detail. ( IB of
F et al 2022) The contrast of classic tailoring with functional
elements defines the overall construction. Color palettes for shirts in
this season revolve around earthy tones, rich burgundies, deep
greens, and muted blues, reflecting the natural essence of autumn
(Fashion Network et al 2023). Finishes include brushed textures for a
soft feel and subtle sheen. Distressed finishes and raw edges
contribute to a rugged, lived-in aesthetic. Eco-friendly dyes are
utilized, resulting in a muted yet sophisticated color palette.

Figure 11: Italtex.com 2023, Autumn/Winter

2024/25 moodboards [image] SHIRTS X 2024/25
TRENDS
Designs:
Patterns and designs embrace a mix of traditional motifs and
contemporary graphics. Houndstooth, plaid, and pinstripes
make a comeback, often paired with unexpected elements like
asymmetrical hemlines or oversized collars. Abstract and
geometric patterns add a modern touch. Minimalist designs
with monochromatic color schemes also find their place,
catering to those seeking understated elegance.

In summary, the autumn/winter 2024/25 fashion trends for

non-t-shirt shirts encompass a concept of modern elegance
and urban utility. The emphasis on natural fibers, sustainable
practices, and a harmonious blend of traditional and
contemporary design elements defines this season's aesthetic.

SHIRTS X 2024/25
TRENDS
 Concept
In the past, color trends were often more subdued, with a focus on classic
elegance. The concept leaned towards traditionalism, relying on classic
color combinations and well-established palettes. The present color shifts
fashion trend is marked by a shift towards diversity and self-expression. The
concept embraces boldness and experimentation, encouraging a shift from
conventional norms. The future color shifts in fashion trend is anticipated to
push boundaries further, embracing technology and sustainability. The
concept may revolve around a harmonious fusion of innovation,
environmental consciousness, and personal expression.

Fiber and Yarn

In the past natural fibers like cotton and wool were predominant, reflecting
a preference for traditional materials. Yarns were chosen for their durability,
and experimentation with synthetic fibers was limited. There's a noticeable
shift towards a more eclectic range of fibers, including both natural and
synthetic options. Yarns are chosen for their ability to hold vibrant colors,
allowing for a more diverse and dynamic color palette. The future is likely to
see a surge in sustainable and technologically advanced fibers. Smart
textiles and eco-friendly materials may become more prevalent, reflecting a
commitment to both innovation and environmental responsibility.

Construction and Finish

Shirts in the past were characterized by classic cuts and patterns. Solid
colors and subtle patterns were common, emphasizing a more conservative
and formal aesthetic. Finishes were often matte and detailing focused on
classic elements like button styles and collar designs. The color palette
leaned towards muted tones, offering a refined and sophisticated look. Shirts
in the present showcase a mix of classic silhouettes with contemporary twists.
Asymmetry, color blocking, and unconventional patterns define the
construction, catering to a more diverse and expressive audience. Finishes in
the present include a variety of textures, from high gloss to matte, depending
on the desired effect. Metallic accents and color-matched detailing
contribute to a more visually stimulating finish. The color palette is bold,
featuring vibrant primary colors and unexpected combinations. the future
might include interactive elements, such as color-changing fabrics or
augmented reality applications. The color palette could be even more
diverse, incorporating hues inspired by futuristic themes and sustainable
practices.

Figure 12: Venesse.com n.d.

Key colors for 2024/25
[image]

COLOUR
SHIFTS
 Concept
The trend of graphics in fashion has evolved into a dynamic fusion of storytelling and self-
expression. The concept revolves around using graphics as a means to convey narratives,
ideals, and individuality. Graphics on shirts have moved beyond mere embellishments,
becoming a canvas for visual communication and artistic representation.

Fiber and Yarn

In response to the graphic trend, there's a demand for versatile fabrics that allow for
intricate printing. Cotton blends, modal, and polyester are popular choices, providing a
smooth canvas for vivid and detailed graphics. The focus is on achieving a balance
between comfort and the ability to hold vibrant prints.

Construction
Shirts under the graphics trend feature a diverse range of constructions. Tailored
silhouettes coexist with oversized fits, offering options for various style preferences.
Graphics extend beyond just the front or back, often wrapping around sleeves or
incorporating unique placements. Layering and combining different graphic elements
contribute to the overall construction.

Finish
The finish of shirts in this trend emphasizes the quality and longevity of printed graphics.
Techniques such as screen printing, digital printing, and embroidery are employed to
achieve distinct effects. Finishes include glossy overlays, textured prints, and
embellishments like sequins or metallic accents, enhancing the visual appeal.

Themes
Themes for graphic shirts vary widely, from nostalgic
Figure 15: Fuckingyoung.com 2019, Stella
McCartney fall/winter 2019 [image]

references to pop culture to abstract artistic expressions.

Story-driven graphics, featuring illustrations or slogans that
convey a message, are popular. Nature-inspired themes,
geometric patterns, and abstract designs also find their place,
catering to a diverse range of tastes.

Color Palettes
Color palettes in graphic shirts are often bold and vibrant.
Bright primary colors, pastels, and neon shades dominate,
contributing to the eye-catching nature of the graphics.
Monochromatic designs or grayscale prints are also common,
offering a more subdued yet impactful aesthetic.

Designs
Designs under this trend showcase a mix of influences.
Vintage-inspired graphics, including retro typography and
illustrations, coexist with futuristic and abstract elements.
Logo-mania continues to be popular, with brands
incorporating their logos in creative ways. Illustrations often
tell a visual story, while geometric patterns and asymmetry
add a modern touch.

Figure 13:Fukingyoung.com 2022,

EGONLAB Fall/Winter 2022 [image]

Figure 14:Instagram.com n.d. ,

STYLES:
3D printed casual jacket
[image] GRAPHICS
 Concept
The trend of free flow of lines in fashion embodies a sense of liberation and fluidity. This
concept revolves around unrestricted lines, allowing for organic and unrestrained designs.
The idea is to break away from rigid structures and embrace a more dynamic and
expressive approach in garment design

Fiber and Yarn

In response to the free flow of lines style, the choice of fibers and yarns is diverse. Fabrics
with natural drape, like silk or modal, are favored for their ability to complement the
fluidity of the lines. Yarns may include blends that enhance movement and contribute to
the overall sense of freedom in the garment.

Construction
Shirts under the free flow of lines trend feature designs that emphasize movement and
dynamism. Silhouettes are often loose and unrestrictive, allowing the lines to cascade
naturally. Asymmetrical hems, cascading drapes, and flowing sleeves contribute to the
overall construction, creating a sense of ease and effortlessness.

Finish
The finish of these shirts brings out the free-flowing nature of the lines. Seams may be left
raw or subtly frayed to enhance the organic feel. The color palette tends to be soft and
muted, emphasizing a harmonious blend that complements the fluidity of the lines. Finishes
may include subtle sheens or matte textures, depending on the desired effect.

Themes
Christopher Esber lace edged shirt [image]

Themes within the free flow of lines style often draw inspiration
from nature, with designs mimicking the movement of wind,
Figure 19: Relikeditions.com 2023,

water, or organic forms. Abstract and artistic interpretations

play a significant role, allowing for a variety of unique and
individualistic expressions. Themes may also explore cultural
influences, adding depth to the overall design.

Color Palettes
Color palettes in this trend are characterized by soft and
soothing tones. Earthy neutrals, pastels, and gentle gradients
dominate, enhancing the sense of tranquility and fluidity.
Monochromatic designs and subtle contrasts contribute to the
overall aesthetic without overwhelming the free flow of lines.

Design
Designs under the free flow of lines trend often incorporate
swirling patterns, irregular lines, and asymmetrical
compositions. Geometric shapes may be softened and
blended into the fabric, creating a seamless and continuous
flow. The emphasis is on creating a sense of movement and
spontaneity within the design.

Figure 17: Weareness.com n.d. Pleated

leather shirt [image]

STYLES:
Figure 18: Aloja.com n.d.
FREE FLOW
Designer shirt [image]
LINES
 FUTURE OF SHIRTS
The future of shirts holds promising prospects globally as the market continues to
adapt to rapidly shifting consumer preferences. Currently, the global market reflects
a blend of traditional and contemporary styles, with a high focus on sustainability and
innovation in fabrics (Cernansky R 2022). Styles range from classic formal wear to
versatile business-casual ranges, offering a wide array of choices to consumers.

Future developments in style suggest a continued blurring of lines between formal and
casual attire (Business of Fashion 2022). Customization and personalization are likely
to gain traction, allowing consumers to tailor shirts to their unique preferences
(McKinsey 2021). Sustainability will play a pivotal role, with eco-friendly fabrics and
ethical production methods becoming more prevalent to meet the growing demand
for environmentally conscious fashion.

Colors are expected to embrace a diverse palette, catering to a global market with
varied cultural influences. Neutral tones for formal settings and bold colors for casual
wear may become more popular, reflecting the evolving preferences of the fashion-
conscious consumer (Halftee 2023)

In conclusion, the future of shirts globally anticipates a blend of style, sustainability,

and adaptability to diverse consumer preferences, with specific nuances in emerging
markets.

LOCAL MARKET
(VIETNAM)
In Vietnam, the future of shirts aligns with the
country's dynamic growth. As Vietnam
experiences economic development and
urbanization rapidly, there is a rising demand
for sophisticated and comfortable attire. The
market is likely to witness an influx of
international and local brands, contributing to
a diverse range of innovative styles and
choices. Additionally, the Vietnamese
consumer's increasing awareness of
sustainable practices may influence the
market gradually, driving a shift towards eco-
friendly materials and ethical manufacturing.

Figure 20: Zara.com 2024, Oversized

white shirt [image]
 pn

SUSTAINABILITY
ADVANCEMENT

In the past, sustainability in fashion was a secondary consideration, often

overshadowed by the focus on style and cost. Traditional production methods and
materials started raising environmental concerns, contributing to a significant
ecological footprint. The fashion industry faced scrutiny for its vast negative
impact on ecosystems and communities.

In the present, this has shifted, and sustainability has become a focal in the
production of shirts and also rest of the supply chain. Brands emphasize
responsible sourcing of materials, opting for eco-friendly fabrics like organic
cotton, linen, and recycled fibers (Forest Digital 2021). Manufacturing processes
are focused to reduce water usage, closely monitoring energy consumption, and
thorough waste management, aligning with a broader commitment to the
environment and community.

Looking to the future, the sustainability of shirts will be subjected to greater

advancements. Innovations in fabric technology will likely introduce comfortable,
stylish and eco-conscious materials with enhanced durability and performance.
The adoption of circular fashion principles, emphasizing recycling and up cycling,
may become more prevalent, fostering a cradle-to-cradle system that minimizes
environmental impact (D’Itria. E and Aus. R 2023). Additionally, consumer
awareness and demand for transparent and ethical practices drive the industry
towards further improvements in sustainability, influencing the entire lifecycle of
shirts, from sourcing to production and beyond.
carbon footprint
Analysis
 FABRIC WEIGHT (g) CO2 (kg)

Average 100% Cotton 222 10.8

Zara 100% Cotton 192.93 5.3

The Cult 100% Cotton

231.63 6.3
Original

A carbon footprint is a measure of the total greenhouse gas emissions, primarily

carbon dioxide, that an individual, an entity, an event, or a product is responsible
for emitting into the atmosphere. It acts as a quantifiable indicator of the impact
of human activities on the environment, reflecting the quantity of carbon dioxide
and other greenhouse gases released during production, transportation, and
consumption processes (Christenson 2023). The concept is significant in
addressing climate change, as it highlights the collective responsibility in
reduction in the emissions and adopting to sustainable practices. Calculating and
understanding one's carbon footprint is important in making informed choices
that minimize environmental impact and promote an eco-conscious and
sustainable standard of life (European Parliament 2020).

The textile industry and carbon footprint are closely interconnected, marked by
the industry's extensive production processes and broad supply chains. The
manufacturing of textiles involves energy-intensive procedures such as cultivation,
processing, dyeing, and transportation, contributing significantly to greenhouse
gas emissions. The carbon footprint of textiles is influenced by factors like raw
material extraction, energy sources, transportation methods and distribution
channels. Fast fashion, with its primary focus on rapid turnover and high-volume
production, hightens this impact.

The carbon footprint of a shirt spans among its entire lifecycle, commencing with
raw material extraction, such as cotton cultivation or synthetic fiber production.
Energy-intensive manufacturing processes, including spinning, weaving, and
dyeing, contribute largely to emissions. Transportation along the supply chain
further exaggerate the carbon impact. Once the shirt reaches the end consumer,
its care and maintenance also impact the footprint, with washing and drying
accounting for substantial energy consumption.
Sustainable practices, such as utilizing eco-friendly raw materials, adapting to
energy-efficient technologies, and implementing circular economy models, can
aid in the reduction of the textile industry's carbon footprint. Consumer
education on responsible consumption and supporting brands committed to
sustainability is also a significant step. By integrating these strategies carefully,
the textile industry can transition towards a more environmentally conscious
paradigm, reducing its carbon footprint and nurturing a more sustainable future.
Addressing the carbon footprint within the textile industry is important for
achieving a more sustainable and environmentally friendly future.

The textile industry is progressively subjected to standards, certifications, and

regulations aimed at reduction of carbon footprint. Globally recognized
certifications like the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) emphasize eco-
friendly practices throughout the supply chain, from raw material sourcing to
production (Global Organic Textile Standard 2019). Regulatory frameworks,
such as the European Union's Green Deal, set carbon reduction targets for the
industry (European Commission 2020). Additionally, laws restricting hazardous
substances, like REACH in the EU, indirectly influence carbon emissions by
encouraging cleaner production methods(European Chemicals Agency 2018).
Standards, like the United States Environmental Protection Agency's SmartWay
Transport Program, address the carbon impact of transportation in the textile
supply chain(US EPA 2016). As sustainability gains prominence among
stakeholders adherence to these measures becomes prominent.

Tackling the carbon footprint in the textile industry requires a comprehensive

approach, blending sustainable materials, energy efficiency, and consumer
awareness.
 Figure 19: Cotton yarns in Agtex 28 (2023) photo taken by Khanh Tu
[image]

Industry Visit

Report
ABOUT
AGTEX 28

Figure 20: Agtex 28, (2023) Agtex 28 company in Saigon photo taken
by Khanh Tu [image]

Agtex 28 was established in 1991, an enterprise specializing in

manufacturing high-quality men's and women's suits exported to
European, American, Australian, Japanese and domestic markets.
After 30 years of development, Agtex 28 has 28 factories, more than
500 high qualitied employees, Agtex 28 produced over 1.000.000
vest, suits, daily wear for brands like The Black Tux, Next, Moss Bros,
Reiss, Calvin Klein, Belluni, Owen, Aristino, etc (Agtex 28, 2024).
Fiber and Fabric
Making

introduction: Agtex 28 is one of the leading company in manufacturing, knitting, dying, spinning
with the most advanced technology. They successfully startup their business in producing
multiples garments and initiate in protecting the environment by implementing eco-friendly
material for their products. We got a chance to witness the process making of cotton fiber,
weaving machines and dyeing factory at Agtex 28. The valuable experiences and lessons we
obtained were massive in just a few hours, the manager was at the factory showed us a variety of
machines and explain thoroughly about the maunufacturing and production procedures. and
below are the specific steps we observe during the trip:

Fabric and fiber Manufacturing Process

Fiber Treatment: After the material is extracted and bring to the facrory, the fiber will be bleached
or clean with mechanical machine. More specifically at Agtex 28 it is processed through a rotor
method and OE system. This machine will help remove impurities and separate cotton seeds
meanwhile still retain its moisture.

After that the cotton fiber will further go through more scoruing step to fully remove contaminants,
lint and debris also it tears the fibers into finner texture in order to move to the next step. This steps
is to ensure the cotton is fully cleaned and can produce the best product later on.

Combing/carding: Once the material is ready, the cotton will undergoes a carding procedure. It is
alligned straightly in one direction, separated from one another. this process is to remove tangles,
breaking the fiber lumps and smoothing them out. Forming them into longer strands.

Spinning and Winding: this step, the cotton strand will be turn into yarn, The pile of cotton is
brought to the spindle spinning machine. Which twist and pull the cotton fiber into long strands,
making them softer, thicker, more durable and stronger for the finishing product. Once the cotton
is spun, the yarn is wind into spools for storing, transporting, warp into cones for the weaving
process or the yarn can also be dyed according to the desired product.

Weaving: When weaving, the weft yarn is woven through the warp yarn and there are multiples
weave methods can be used such as twill weave, sateen weave or plain weave. After weaving the
fabric can be bleached, dyed, printing, washing, etc.

Figures 21, 22, 23, 24: All photos taken by Khanh Tu, 2023
GARMENT MAKING
Garment making process
Design/pattern making and Cutting: The
first step in making garment is
designing and come up with sketches
for a product. Then the pattern maker
department will come up with pattern
pieces sample based on the design,
product needed as wll as creating
different size for a garment. Then it will
be transferred to the cutting
department, after they receive the
layout they will begin to cut following
the lines using tradition method or Figures 25, 26, 27, 28: All photos taken by Khanh Tu, 2023

automated cutting machine.

Sewing the pieces: After that, the

workers will start to assemble the fabric,
sort them by size, color and quantities,
then the sewing room will sew each
pieces togheter. in Agtex 28, it is mostly
done with machine stitching and they
will prepare each group operating each
part of the garment, one will be
responsible for the pant, sleeves cuffs, or
shirt collar, buttonhole, etc.

Checking final product: Once the pieces

off fabric are completed, the, the
garments will go through a final
inspection before it is ironed or washed.
This will be done mannually by checking
the qualoty, color, stitches, thread
trimming, correct labelling of size. In the
end, the garment will be iron and
packed in a box to be ready to transport
to the customers.
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