Taller Mad Hatter Amigurumi Chiacrafts ENG v2

Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Mad Hatter
Crochet Pattern
This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka

@chiacrafts, who hopes you’ll enjoy it a lot!
1
A message for you!

Hello dear fellow crocheters! My name is Chiara (pronounced “Kiara”, as I’m Italian) and I’m not
only the girl in the picture down there but, most importantly, the person behind the Instagram
account @chiacrafts!
In the very beginning crochet was, for me, nothing more than a Sunday hobby, useful to keep my
mind busy and far away from disaster fantasies. When I first opened my Instagram account, I’d
have never imagined achieving such success, but it quickly grew and many people expressed
interest in reproducing my creations :D, which brought me to start typing down and sharing my
patterns!
However, writing a pattern doesn’t come without its own challenges and quite an effort: while the
design time remains unvaried, physically writing it down in digital format, remaking the pieces to
make sure they’re correct, and preparing all comments and pictures, takes about more than a third
of the time I spend on a project.
I’m an independent artist: I’m not sponsored, not affiliated to any magazine or company, and I
don’t receive any retribution for my work other than what I gain from my small Ravelry shop. I
would love to share all my patterns for free but, seeing the amount of time and energy I spend on
them, that wouldn't be possible.
If you like my work and wish for me to keep writing

crochet patterns, please support me: don't redistribute
this pattern and don't make use of pirated copies.
Not sure if yours is a pirated copy? Read the next page
:)
Let me thank you once again for your love and

support. You’re all a source of great motivation for
me!
Cheers,
Chiara
2
Licence
Hello, and thank you for being about to try out this pattern! It was made with a lot of love and
personal effort :)
Here are a few rules and advice you’d REALLY better read and keep in mind!
This is a pattern for sale, available via my Ravelry shop exclusively (link in the header of this
document). If you’ve found it in any other location, you’re reading a stolen copy, and you shouldn’t
use it. Also, this doesn’t allow you to redistribute it in turn.
DO NOT copy or redistribute this pattern in ANY form. Unauthorized translations are also
prohibited.
DO NOT reuse my pictures.
This pattern is intended for personal use only.
Please give me credits when posting online by always adding “Pattern by @chiacrafts” and
#chiacraftspatterns. If you don’t post online, I would very much like to receive a picture of your
work anyway :D
Please respect my copyright, my wishes and my hard work. Support me and help me carry on
this activity. Thank you for listening :)
For any doubt, you can contact me via PM on Instagram or by email. I DO NOT answer questions
via private message on Ravelry, but you have all the information to contact me otherwise.
I always answer :)
3
stacking concentric layers. There aren’t parts

worked in joined rounds in this pattern.
Read Me! When working in rows, instead, at the end of each

row you should turn your work and proceed in the
opposite direction: the first st of a row should,
Pay attention to the details! therefore, be worked in the last stitch of the
previous row, thus proceeding zig-zag and
creating a 2D shape. When working in rows, you
Take a good look at all the pictures and don’t be
should always make a turning chain at the end of
afraid to re-do some parts. Luckily, they’re so
each row of sc to help you better turn your work.
small it’s quite fast :)
This turning chain might not be always explicitly
It's a good practice to read the whole document
reported in the pattern, but it’s visible in the
before starting. Knowing what to expect will
diagrams.
help you pay attention!
The only case where you should NOT make a
turning chain is when you make a decrease at the
beginning of a row (you skip the first stitch and
Tips and Tutorials start working in the second).
When working in rows, after a chain, always start
You find quick video tutorials on how to work in from the second loop from hook, if not specified
rounds, rows and how to execute all the basic otherwise.
stitches in my Youtube channel. I advise you to Also, both when working in rows and working in
have a look in case you should be unsure about rounds, work the stitches always through the
how to work. Anyway, all the stitches are quite entire stitch, not in the back loops or front loops
standard, so you might as well just type the name only, unless specified otherwise.
of the stitch on google, and follow the first
tutorial popping out.
You also find some useful tips related to my
patterns in my Instagram guides. I strongly
For left-handed people
recommend taking a look if this is the first time
If you’re left-handed, everything is mirror-like for
you’re following one of my patterns! This
material is constantly evolving: I keep improving you!
in explaining myself and I keep enriching it. That's Right-handed people should work in the round
why I'm not linking any post to specific parts of clockwise, keeping the crochet hook between
the document. them and the work. Left-handed people should
work in the round counterclockwise keeping the
work between them and the crochet hook.
Rounds and Rows Right-handed should work in rows proceeding
from right to left, left-handed should work from
Parts of this pattern have been worked in Rounds, left to right. Therefore, you can easily follow this
others in Rows.
pattern keeping in mind to always swap
instructions specularly: for example, if I say that
When working in rounds, the first stitch of a
round must be worked upon the first stitch of the the stitch marker should be placed on the left side
previous one, thus proceeding in spiral and of the doll, that makes it the right side for you,
creating a 3D hollow shape. This technique is and so on.
known as continuous rounds.
Another way of working in rounds is the joined
rounds one: in this case, you start each round
with a chain, work the first st in the stitch right
below the chain, and you end each round with a sl
in the first st. You don’t proceed in a spiral, but by
4
Stitch marker usage

I place the stitch marker on the LAST st of the
Abbreviations
round. I.E.: in my patterns, it marks the end of the * These are standard US standard abbreviations
round. + something I’ve made up to ease the reading.
★ R = Round (continuous or joined)
★ Row = row
Don’t work inside out! ★ MR = Magic Ring
★ st = stitch
If you’re working correctly and you’re right ★ sk = skip
handed, you should work clockwise keeping the ★ sc = single crochet
crochet hook between you and the work ★ inc = sc increase (invisible sc increase, i.e.
(counterclockwise if you're left-handed). If you’re 1st sc in FL, 2nd through the entire st
right handed and you’re working counterclockwise when working in rounds, [2 sc] through
keeping the work between you and your crochet the entire st when working in rows)
hook, then you’re working inside out. You’ll have a
★ dec = sc decrease (invisible sc decrease
hard time following this pattern if you do so, I’d
when working in rounds, sc2tog when
suggest you correct it.
working in rows)
★ dc = double crochet
★ hdc = half double crochet
YU vs YO stitches ★ ch = chain
★ sl = slip stitch
The first version of this pattern was worked YO ★ tr = treble crochet
(yarn over), i.e. using the “V” stitch. The new ★ BLO = back loop only (corresponds to the
version has been worked YU (Yarn Under) i.e. inner loop when working in rounds)
using the “X” stitch. ★ FLO = front loop only (corresponds to the
You find more info about the two in the dedicated
outer loop when working in rounds)
post in my IG profile.
★ [ ] = means that the stitches are to be
The choice of stitch type is mainly aesthetical and
doesn’t impact the result more than how a change done in the same loop or stitch
in gauge would. ★ CY-PO = cut the yarn and pull it out from
the stitch
★ IJ = Invisible Join
★ FO = fasten off (CY-PO + IJ)
★ stsc = standing sc
★ tch = turning chain
★ rc = rising chain
★ Ldec = don’t make a turning chain at the
end of the previous row, skip 1 st and work
1 sc in the next (= 1 dec)
5
Note on the yarn

Materials I used YarnArt Jeans, which is a yarn made to be
★ 2.0 mm hook worked with a 3 or 3.5 mm hook (it comes only in
★ 2.5 mm hook 1 size, so you can’t go wrong). As usual when
★ 3.0 mm hook working amigurumis, I’ve used a hook 1 size
★ Tapestry needle smaller than indicated to better work the body
★ 10mm colored safety eyes ( a blue one and tight, thus avoiding holes in the crochet from
a yellow one). I’ve purchased mine on Etsy which the stuffing would be visible or fall
from a store called HappyHippoSales. through.
○ alternative: 8mm black safety eyes You should get a good result with this pattern
as long as you stick to one yarn brand/size, work
★ Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other)
the body tight with a hook 1 size smaller than
★ Yarn all in the same size of the following
indicated, and scale the other hooks accordingly.
colors. I’ve used YarnArt Jeans:
Anyhow, my advice is to avoid picking a yarn
○ Carrot (85): hair
much thicker than indicated, to avoid a sloppy
○ Cream (86): head result: maximum 1 size bigger!
○ Brown (40): coat
○ Dark brown (70): shoes only
○ Khaki green (82): hat and bag
○ Cacao (71): torso
○ Violet (50): leg 1 and bow tie
Dimensions
○ Red (26): odd rows leg 2 Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most
○ Petrol (63): booty and even rows importantly, working tight!!!), the finished
leg 2 amigurumi will be about 15x6 cm.
○ Peach (73): hands only
○ RaspBerry (42): tissue scrap only
○ Baby blue (76): tissue scrap only
○ Dusty rose (65): hat decor only
○ Small scrap of yellow (35) for the
bag decor
Note on the eyes

The right safety eye size depends on the doll’s
dimensions! Don’t purchase 8mm or 10mm eyes if
you’re not sure the dimensions of your doll will be
similar to mine. My advice is to purchase a box
with many different sizes, and use the one which
better suits your doll. Approximately, safety eyes
should be 2.5 stitches wide.
6
working in this way is required, the turning chain

is explicitly indicated in the pattern. Here’s an
Working in Rows example

○ R1: ch 6, R2: 5 sc, R3-R6: tch, 4 sc
There are 2 ways of working in rows and
executing line decreases. In this pattern, you are
mostly going to work in rows with the turning
chain substituting the first stitch of the row and
with the turning chain Ldec. The other 2 methods
are used only in the neck part.
Working in rows with turning

chain
When working in rows, you usually make one
additional chain at the beginning of each line of sc
- this chain is called turning chain because it helps
you to better turn the work - and you start
working from the first stitch of the row. As this is
the most traditional way of working in rows, the
turning chain isn’t marked in the pattern. Here’s an
example
○ R1: ch 6, R2-R6: 5 sc
Working in rows with turning

chain substituting the first
stitch of the row
As in the previous case, a turning chain must be
done at the beginning of the row, but you should
then start working in the second stitch of the row
instead of in the first one. The turning chain plays
the role of the first stitch of the row, so you should
work in it the row after. This technique will give
you much smoother and clearer edges. When
7
Legs Left leg

Crochet hook: 2.0
Work tight
Right leg Work with Brown yarn
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Crochet hook: 2.0 R2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)
Work tight R3: 8 sc (8)
Work with Brown yarn Change color to violet.
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Stuff the leg a bit as you go.
R2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8) R4: 8 sc BLO (8)
R3: 8 sc (8) R5-R8: 8 sc (8)
Change color to red. Remember that the color Change color to petrol. Keep working in petrol
change must be made on the second step of the from now on.
last stitch of the previous round (in this case, R3). R9-R13: 8 sc (8)
Stuff the leg a bit as you go. At the end of R13, work 2 additional sc, so that
R4: 8 sc BLO (8) this leg will be of the same length as the first one.
Change color to petrol. Don’t cut the yarn after making the second leg;
After performing the color change proceed you’ll keep on working from there to join the legs.
working R5 with petrol color but don’t cut the red
thread. On the last stitch of R5 you’ll pick it up
and execute another color change to red. Shoes details
Proceed alternating between petrol and red, until
R8 (which will be red), and then work the rest of Crochet hook: 2.0
the leg in petrol color. Work normally
In this way you’ll never have to cut the yarn until Work with Brown yarn
the very end. Also, changing color each row, you’ll Merge the yarn in the first FL left available of R3.
avoid those annoying discontinuities caused by Holding the leg as you did before, work a round of
the color change. Petrol and red color will SC parallel to R4. Then FO.
proceed up the leg as 2 parallel spirals.
R5-R13: 8 sc (8)
At the end of R13, work 2 extra sc and then
CY-PO leaving a long tail in case some sewing
should be needed.
We’re adding the 2 sc so that the color changes
will stay on the back of the leg.
8
Here are the 2 legs
Switch to cream yarn. The color change should

fall on the back (the stitch marker is on the back
as in the previous picture).
Stuff a bit as you go.
R24: 6 dec (6)
Now 2 rounds for the neck.
Body R25-R26: 6 sc (6)
Crochet hook: 2.0

Work tight
Work starting from the 2nd leg made with petrol
Head v2
color In this version the head has been modified to
Join the legs: avoid the chin coming out wavy. You find the v1
R14: 4 sc in 2nd leg made, chain 2, 8 sc in 1st version at the very end of this document.
leg, 2 sc in back of the chain, 4 sc in 2nd leg (20)
(Start working in the 1st leg done from the 1st st R27: 6 inc (12)
of R13) R28: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
R15: 20 sc (20) R29: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
R16: 13 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 3 sc (22) R30: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 12 (36)
R17-R18: 22 sc (22) This is how your work should look so far: like a
Switch to cacao color. flat disk.
R19: Work BLO: 12 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc Mark 20 sc on the back of the doll. On the back,
(20) you’re going to work 20 sc, from one stitch marker
R20: 20 sc (20) to the other. On the front, you’re going to work
R21: (3 sc, dec) x 4 (16) some increases placed at a distance of 4 sc. You
might need to change the way you distribute
R22: 16 sc (16)
these increases before and after the end of the
R23: (2 sc, dec) x 4 (12) round based on where you find yourself at the
end of R30.
9
TIP: while stuffing the head, it’s possible that the

eyes will tilt towards the outside. It’s a good trick
to straighten them and indent them using some
skin color threads passing inside the head! I
advise you to place them now, before adding the
eyes.
Cut two long threads and pass them as in the
following picture, at 1 st distance from the hole
where you’re going to place the eye (always on
the inner side!).
I did:
R31: 9 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 3, 11 sc (40)
Here’s an example of a possible adaptation.
R31: 9 sc 15 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 3, 11 sc 5
sc(40)
R32-R33: 40 sc (40)
Your work should now look as in the following
picture. Mark two spots at a distance of 7 stitches
on the front of the doll (1st stitch marker on the Then proceed placing the eyes and making the
eye embroidery (you can find a generic video
1st, second on the 7th).
tutorial on how to make the embroidery in my
Instagram profile).
The eyebrows are made in carrot yarn with 2.0

hook and are both
ch 3, CY-PO
To make the nose, just weave the yarn a couple of
times.
You can also embroider the red eyebags.
You’re going to work sc until right before the 1st

stitch marker, then 1 dec, then 7 sc, then 1 dec,
then end the round with sc. In my case, the
pattern ended up being:
R34: 13 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc (38)
R35-R40: 38 sc (38)
R41: (17 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (36)
Stop and place the safety eyes between R35 and The cream threads will be used to indent the
R36 (count 6 rounds from the top, it will be eyes. For the time being, pull them out the back of
easier) 7 sc apart: the doll.
10
tails inside the head (there’s a video in my

Instagram profile).
Here’s the result so far!
Stuff below the indentation threads.

I first pull out the threads, and I stuff the lower
part of the head, then I pull the threads back in
(from the back of the doll),
and I stuff the rest while closing up the head.

The top of the head should be stuffed firmly:
don’t neglect the last rounds.
The lower part of the head ends up being slightly
lighter stuffed than the upper one, since it’s
Coat
stuffed as just shown whereas, while closing the Crochet hook: 2.5
top, I keep pushing stuffing in with my scissors Work normally, not as tight as the body
until the surface is well stretched (proper stuffing Work with brown yarn
can increase the height of the forehead of your This part is worked in rows
Row1: ch 11 (10)
doll up to 1 cm!).
Row2: 10 sc (10)
Row3: tch, inc, (1 sc, inc) x 4 (15)
Keep on working the head: Row4: tch, sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 4 (20)
R42: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30) Row5-Row7: tch, 19 sc (20)
R43: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24) Row8: tch, 17 sc, turn (18)
Stuff while closing the head! It must be stuffed Row9: tch, 15 sc, turn .(16)
firmly, don’t neglect the last rounds. Row10: tch, 15 sc, FO (16)
R44: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)
R45: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)
R46: 6 dec (6)
CY-PO leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a
tapestry needle, pass the tail through all the FLs
of the last round, and pull. Make a knot and hide
the yarn inside the doll’s body.
Last, pull the peach threads to indent the eyes, fix

them with a knot behind the head and hide the
11
Join the yarn 4 st (the tch counts) from a side of

the jacket.
Fasten off all the tails left.

Leave a long starting tail because you’ll need to
fasten it off. Work: Here’s a small diagram.
Row1: 1 stsc, 3 sc, turn (4)
Row2: Ldec, 2 sc, turn (3)
Row3: tch, 2 sc, turn (3)
Row4: Ldec, 1 sc, turn (2)
Row5: tch, 1 sc, turn (2)
Row6: 1 sc, FO.
Sew the coat to the body

Wrap the coat around the body (Row1 of the coat
should correspond to the neck color change) and
sew it in position
Then do the same on the other side
12
R2-R3: 28 sc (28)
R4: 6 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 6 sc (26)
R5: 26 sc (26)
R6: (11 sc, dec) x 2 (24)
R7: 24 sc (24)
R8: 5 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 5 sc (22)
R9-R10: 22 sc (22)
R11: 22 inc (44)
Hat
Crochet hook: 2.0 Sew the top of the hat a bit crookedly to R1 of the
Work tight body of the hat (so it will look a bit dented). The
Use Khaki yarn “lid” doesn’t fit the hat perfectly on purpose, to
First we prepare the top of the hat (the “lid”) achieve this effect.
R1: 8 sc in MR (8)
R2: 8 inc (16)
R3: 16 inc (32)
R4-R5: 32 sc (32)
FO. Leave a long tail for sewing.
Now work the body of the hat.

R1: chain 28
Join the extremities to work in rounds
13
Pull out a loop
Hair
Crochet hook: 2.0, 3.0
Work loosely
Work with carrot yarn
Start by pinning these 2 positions: in line with the
eyebrows, 3 rounds above.
Switch to hook 3.0.

Work a ch 11
Then insert your hook 2.0 where the pin on your

left is, pushing it out 1 st on the left
Working from 2nd loop from hook, work 2 sc in

each loop of the chain:
[2 sc] x 10 (20)
14
Now insert the hook (2.0 one) in the hole after the In total you should have made 7 strands. Don’t
one where you grabbed the yarn in the previous cut the yarn or FO.
iteration
and push it out from the one on its left If you did everything correctly, the hat should
cover the bald spot on the head. Verify this and
consider adjusting everything by moving the hair
a few rounds higher otherwise.
Insert your hook in the hole just below the stitch

you just worked.
Switch to 3.0 hook. grab the yarn again, and pull

out another loop.
Then make another:
ch 11, [2 sc] x 10
Proceed in this way till you’ll reach the pin on the
right (you actually arrive 1 round higher than the
pin).
15
There’s one last layer of wig!

Work it as you worked the second layer starting
from this point between R41 and R42.
And proceed working the strands as you did

before, until you reach the point just below the
very first strand made.
Proceeding this way my second layer is formed by
9 strands.
Then CY-PO leaving a long tail for sewing. Using
a tapestry needle insert the tail left in the hole
where you made the final strand, pull it out and
FO.
Proceeding this way, you create another layer of 9

strands.
After the last one, CY-PO leaving a very long tail.

we’re going to use this to sew the hair to the
head.
16
Pin the second layer in correspondence with the

beginning of the first one.
Using a tapestry needle, pass the tail left in the

hole where the last strand was made, and push it
out 6 rounds below.
Pin down the hair strands.
Sew or glue the tips in between the strands of the
third layer,
Sew or glue the end extremity of each hair strand.
The first level made doesn’t need to be sewn or

glued.
17
And sew or glue this part on the hat
Put the hat on

Pin the hat on the head, and sew it in position.
Prepare a long dusty rose chain using hook 3.0: ch

31
Work 5 sl starting from the 2nd loop from hook
and FO.
Crochet a tag and sew it to the hat.

Crochet hook: 2.0
Work tight
Use white yarn
Row1: ch 5 (4)
Row2: 4 sc (4)
Row3-Row7: tch, 3 sc (4)
Tie it around the hat using the tails left.
Then embroider the numbers
18
Arms
Crochet hook: 2.0
Work tight
Start with brown yarn
Leave a long starting tail. Position the starting tail
outside the work if you intend sewing the arms.
Make 2.
Sew or glue the arms to the jacket. Here he is :)
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

R2-R7: 6 sc (6)
Change to peach
R8: BLO: 6 sc (6)
R9-R10: 6 sc (6)
CY-PO. Pass the tail left into all FL of the last
round, pull and make a knot. Hide the tail left
inside the arm
Bow tie
Crochet hook: 2.0
Work tight
Use violet yarn
Ch 6
Working from third loop from hook make:
2 dc, 2 sc
from here work another
ch 6, 2 dc, 2 sc, CY-PO
Make a knot between the 2 end extremities, and
wrap them around the middle part of the bow.
Keeping the peach part up, work a row of brown
sc in the FLs left from R7 (you worked R8 BLO).
19
Bag
Crochet hook: 2.0
Work tight
Work with khaki yarn
R1: chain 6
R2: make 10 sc all around the chain (10)
R3-R4: 10 sc (10)
R5: 5 sc, chain 25, skip 5 sc from R4, 5 sc in R4
stitches crocheting in the opposite direction
(going towards the beginning of R5)
Here’s a diagram
Sew it to the hatter’s chest
20
Crochet hook: 2.0

Fasten off. Work tight
Work with raspberry and baby blue yarn
Work 2 scraps of cloth
Each piece is
Row1: chain 9
Row2: 8 dc (one in each loop of the chain)
The decor on the bag was simply made by

passing a yellow thread through all the loops of
the bag holder.
Sew them inside the bag
21
Congratulations, your Mad

Hatter is ready!
Don’t forget to send me a picture and tag me /
give me credits / use my hashtag when posting
online!
All info is in the license!
22
Head v1
R27: 6 inc (12)
R28: 12 inc (24)
R29: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36)
Your stitch marker should be on the back side of
the doll, as in the following picture. Take into
account that the increases of R30 should be done
on the front, and the 7+11= 18 sc on the back.
Tiny differences in the position of your stitch
marker won’t have a huge impact :)
R30: 7 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 9, 11 sc (45)

R31-R32: 45 sc (45)
R33: 7 sc, (2 sc, 1 dec) x 7, 10 sc (38)
R34-R40: 38 sc (38)
R41: 9 sc, 1 dec, 17 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc (36)
R42: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
Stop and place the safety eyes between R36 and Prepare the eyebrows. Each eyebrow is a
R37, 8 st apart. Count the rounds from the top, it ch 4, CY-PO
will be easier. leaving a long tail both at the beginning and at
the end.
Sew them crosswise R41, in line with the eyes.
You can also add a nose. Mine is 1 st wide placed
between R35 and R36
You can then make a red embroidery for the

circles under his eyes
23
(NB: when I took this picture, I had already

worked R43. You might want to do the same
before placing the eyebrows)
If you need to straighten the eyes, simply pull

these strings gently after closing the head and fix
everything with a tiny knot.
Keep on working the head:

R43: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)
R44: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
From this point on, stuff with constancy and
attention. Don’t forget to keep stuffing until the
very last round, the top of the head must be as
TIP: while stuffing the head, it’s possible that the firm as the bottom.
eyes will tilt towards the outside. A good trick is
I use my scissors to help myself push in the
straightening them using some threads placed
inside the head! You might place them afterwards stuffing.
or prepare them while crocheting the head, just in R45: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
case you might need it. Make them pass here: R46: 6 dec (6)
CY-PO leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a
tapestry needle, pass the tail through all the FLs
of the last round, and pull. Make a knot and hide
the yarn inside the doll’s body.
Here’s the result so far!
And then out on the back.
24

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka

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stacking concentric layers. There aren’t parts

Read Me! When working in rows, instead, at the end of each

Stitch marker usage

Note on the yarn

Note on the eyes

working in this way is required, the turning chain

Working in Rows example

Working in rows with turning

Working in rows with turning

Legs Left leg

Here are the 2 legs

Switch to cream yarn. The color change should

Crochet hook: 2.0

TIP: while stuffing the head, it’s possible that the

The eyebrows are made in carrot yarn with 2.0

You’re going to work sc until right before the 1st

tails inside the head (there’s a video in my

Stuff below the indentation threads.

and I stuff the rest while closing up the head.

Last, pull the peach threads to indent the eyes, fix

Join the yarn 4 st (the tch counts) from a side of

Fasten off all the tails left.

Sew the coat to the body

Now work the body of the hat.

Pull out a loop

Switch to hook 3.0.

Then insert your hook 2.0 where the pin on your

Working from 2nd loop from hook, work 2 sc in

Insert your hook in the hole just below the stitch

Switch to 3.0 hook. grab the yarn again, and pull

There’s one last layer of wig!

And proceed working the strands as you did

Proceeding this way, you create another layer of 9

After the last one, CY-PO leaving a very long tail.

Pin the second layer in correspondence with the

Using a tapestry needle, pass the tail left in the

Sew or glue the end extremity of each hair strand.

The first level made doesn’t need to be sewn or

And sew or glue this part on the hat

Put the hat on

Prepare a long dusty rose chain using hook 3.0: ch

Crochet a tag and sew it to the hat.

Tie it around the hat using the tails left.

Then embroider the numbers

Sew or glue the arms to the jacket. Here he is :)

R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Sew it to the hatter’s chest

Crochet hook: 2.0

The decor on the bag was simply made by

Sew them inside the bag

Congratulations, your Mad

R30: 7 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 9, 11 sc (45)