NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BENGALURU

MASTER OF FASHION MANAGEMENT

BATCH 2023-2025

Fashion Production and Quality Management

Assignment 2

SUBMITTED BY:

Naman Somani (MFM/23/76)

Pavi Shetty (MFM/23/73)

Vidhi Agrawal (MFM/23/63)

SUBMITTED TO:

Prof. Nithya Venkataraman

 TABLE OF CONTENTS

S. NO. PARTICULARS PAGE NO.

1 Chapter 1- About the project and export house 1-2

1.1 Project Brief 1
1.2 About Orient Exports 1
2 Chapter 2- Garment Analysis 3-6
2.1 Garment Description 3
2.2 Fabric Analysis 4

3 Chapter 3- Operation Breakdown 7-18

3.1 Operation Breakdown with Seam and Stitch Analysis 7

4 Chapter 4- Seam and Stitch Analysis 19-21

4.1 Seams 19
4.2 Stitches 19
4.3 Machine Beds 20
4.3 Feed Mechanism 21
 CHAPTER-1

Project Brief:

This project involves a comprehensive analysis of a specific garment to meticulously outline

and document its operational breakdown, encompassing a minimum of 15 to 20 individual
steps. Through systematic examination and deconstruction, each operation within the garment's
manufacturing process will be carefully identified and described. This detailed breakdown will
encompass various tasks such as pattern cutting, fabric preparation, stitching, finishing touches,
and quality control measures. By thoroughly documenting each operation, this project aims to
provide a comprehensive understanding of the intricate processes involved in garment
production, offering valuable insights into the complexities of the fashion industry and the
craftsmanship behind every piece of clothing.

About Orient Exports:

Orient Exports, founded in 1989, the company exports its products to major economies,
including the US, UK, France, Germany, Canada, and Australia, with prominent buyers such
as Roots, Lucky Brand, La Halle, and more. Operating from a 20,000 sq. ft. facility, Orient
Exports boasts a monthly production capacity of 50,000 units. The company maintains 100%
in-house facilities for cutting, stitching, and finishing. However, the company has run into
losses and is the verge of closing due to which the production has reduced recently. The
workers are paid on piece basis and each worker works on a single process which means that
the stitching is not carried on in a flow.

Aims and Objectives:

• To maximize the production of goods within the specified tolerances the first time
• To achieve a satisfactory design of the fabric or product in relation to the level of choice
in design, styles, colours, suitability of components and fitness of product for the market
• Facilitate a quicker, faster and transparent communication with clients

Infrastructure:
Their production capacity is about 50000 units per month spread over 20,000 sq. ft. of area.
We have 100 % in house facilities for cutting, stitching and finishing of our products. Two well
designed production units offer various imported machines such as:

• Single Needle
• Flat Lock
• Over Lock
• Eye Kaj
• Button attachment

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 • Kansai – Plackett
• Feed of the arm – side stitch
• UBT – for label attachment
• Fusing machine
• Metal detector machine

The lead production time of Orient Exports is between 60-75 days from receipt of purchase
order.

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 CHAPTER-2

GARMENT DESCRIPTION

This garment is a blue maxi dress made from 100% polyester shell fabric, specifically Poly-
Georgette, with approximately 3.5 meters of fabric used. Its inner lining is made of 100%
Polyester, Poly-Crepe, utilizing around 2 meters of fabric. The dress features a halter neck and
is sleeveless. The closure is a Vislon concealed zipper, ensuring a seamless finish. The dress
has a floral print all over it which is non-directional. It has three pleated tiers forming the lower
body of the dress while the upper bodice has a crisscross front detailing. This garment, sized
as small, measures approximately 1.37 meters in length and 86.36 centimeters in width
measured at the waist.

Figure 1: Image of the Garment- Front and Back

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 Figure 2: Flat Sketch of the Garment- Front and Back

FABRIC ANALYSIS

Shell Fabric

About Poly-Georgette (100% Polyester)

4C’s:
Count: 60-80 GSM as it provides good drape & is ideal for a flowy floral dress with some structure.
Construction: Plain Weave (Georgette Weave; Poly-Georgette)
Composition: 100% Polyester
Content: Polyester
Poly-georgette is a fabric known for its lightweight and sheer qualities. It is made from
polyester, which lends it durability and ease of care. Georgette fabric is woven in a way that
creates a crinkly texture and a slight stretch, giving it a fluid and flowing drape. It is commonly
used in making dresses, blouses, scarves, and other garments where a soft, airy feel is desired.
Poly-georgette is often chosen for its ability to hold vibrant colors well, making it a popular
choice for printed designs. Its versatility and comfortable wear make it a favored fabric for
both casual and formal attire.

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Spreading and Marker Mode

The Shell Fabric has a non-directional floral print all over it and hence, the spreading here will
be Face-one-way and the marker mode can be either way once the spreading is done one way.

• Face-One-Way Spreading: Face-one-way spreading is a method used in garment

manufacturing to ensure uniformity and consistency in the appearance of the fabric's
face or right side throughout the garment. In this technique, all fabric pieces are laid out
in the same orientation, with the face side up, during the cutting process. Face-one-way
spreading is particularly important when working with fabrics that have a distinct
pattern, texture, or directional print, as it helps maintain the intended design alignment
and prevents any inconsistencies or mismatches in the final product.

• Nap-Either-Way Marker Mode: The nap-either- way marker is made for symmetric
and non-directional fabrics, where there is no restriction on which way the patterns are
oriented. The patterns may be either oriented “down” or “up”, or placed in the marker
wherever they fit best, with only consideration for grain line. The N/E/W marker is
usually the most efficient mode yielding the highest fabric utilization. This Mode
assumes consistent (dye) color in the length and width of the goods.

Lining Fabric

About Lining Fabric: Poly-Crepe

4C’s:
Count: 60-70 GSM lining will provide some structure to the dress without making it stiff.
Construction: Plain Weave (Poly-Crepe)
Composition: 100% Polyester
Content: Polyester
Poly-crepe is utilized as a lining fabric in various garments, offering practical benefits and
enhancing the overall quality of the attire. Its composition predominantly consists of polyester,
rendering it durable, easy to care for, and resistant to wrinkles. As a lining material, poly-crepe
provides a smooth and comfortable inner layer against the skin, ensuring a pleasant wearing
experience. Its lightweight nature adds minimal bulk to the garment while still offering
adequate coverage and opacity. Poly-crepe linings also contribute to the structural integrity of
the clothing, aiding in maintaining the shape and silhouette over time. With its versatility and
functional properties, poly-crepe is a popular choice for lining various types of apparel,
including dresses, skirts, jackets, and trousers, offering both practicality and style.

Spreading and Marker Mode

The Shell Fabric has a non-directional floral print all over it and hence, the spreading here will
be Face-2-Face and the marker mode can be either way once the spreading is done one way.

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• Face-2-Face Spreading: Face-2-face spreading is a method used in garment production
during the cutting phase. In this technique, fabric pieces are laid out with their face sides
touching each other, hence the term "face-2-face." This approach maximizes efficiency in fabric
utilization by reducing the amount of space needed between pieces. By placing fabric pieces
face-to-face, manufacturers can minimize waste and optimize the cutting layout, ultimately
increasing yield and reducing costs. Face-2-face spreading is particularly useful when working
with fabrics that have uniform characteristics on both sides, such as plain weaves or solid colors
without a distinct pattern.

• Nap-Either-Way Marker Mode: The nap-either- way marker is made for symmetric
and non-directional fabrics, where there is no restriction on which way the patterns are
oriented. The patterns may be either oriented “down” or “up”, or placed in the marker
wherever they fit best, with only consideration for grain line. The N/E/W marker is
usually the most efficient mode yielding the highest fabric utilization. This Mode
assumes consistent (dye) color in the length and width of the goods.

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 CHAPTER 3

OPERATION BREAKDOWN AND COSTING

Type of Consumption Per unit Cost per

S.No cost Description per piece cost (INR) piece( INR)
Shell Fabric Poly Georgette 3.5 meters 57 199.5
Lining
fabric Poly Crepe 2 meters 15 30
Zippers Concealed Vislon 1 unit 15 15
Labels(
Material
Main,
1 cost
Washcare,
(DIRECT)
size) Cloth labels 2 units 1.5 3
Stitching 3.5/180
thread 3 ply 200.2 meters 3.9
Paper fusing for
Interlining Waist band 0.37 meters 10 3.7
Cost per
Manpower Total SAM minute
2
(INDIRECT) Total Cycle
Time 33.5 4 134
3 Wastage 5% 19.5
Total cost 408.5

Backward Costing

Retail price 2500

Multiplier 5
Target ELC 500
Production Cost (Target) 425

The link to the Excel sheet for operation breakdown and Costing has been attached herewith.
The total cost of the dress comes to Rs. 404.8 and the target production cost as per the
backward calculation comes to Rs. 408.

The selection of a retail multiplier of 5 for backward costing at FabAlley reflects a strategic
decision tailored to the brand's unique positioning and market segment. FabAlley, known for
its trendy and affordable women's apparel and accessories, targets style-conscious consumers
seeking quality fashion at accessible prices. By adopting a multiplier of 5, FabAlley aims to
strike a balance between profitability and competitiveness within the fashion retail landscape.

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This multiplier aligns with industry norms and allows the brand to cover not only the cost of
goods but also operational expenses, marketing investments, and desired profit margins.

This data is drafted on the following assumptions:

1. The Factory is working on a 100% efficiency and there is no idle time.

2. There is no Spreading SAM.
3. There is no Cutting SAM.
4. There is no Finishing and Packaging SAM.
5. The margin taken by the factory is 15%.
6. The wastage for manufacturing and material is 5%.

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REFERENCES

APM II: Raised Bed. (n.d.). Ecoursesonline.iasri.res.in. Retrieved March 16, 2024, from
http://ecoursesonline.iasri.res.in/mod/page/view.php?id=80461#:~:text=Raised%20Bed%20
Machines%20where%20the

Ray, S. C. (2012b). Design and design elements. In Elsevier eBooks (pp. 86–100).
https://doi.org/10.1533/9780857095558.86

Kiron, M. I. (2021, May 24). Sewing Machine Feed Mechanism: Types and Functions. Textile
Learner. https://textilelearner.net/sewing-machine-feed-mechanism/#google_vignette

Understanding Spreading Modes for Different Fabric Types in Cutting. (2023, November 8).
Online Clothing Study. https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2023/11/fabric-spreading-
modes-in- cutting.html#:~:text=The%20modes%20of%20marker%20making

Orient Exports l Clothing’s Manufacturer & Exporter l. (n.d.). Www.orexports.com. Retrieved

March 16, 2024, from https://www.orexports.com/