Womans Institute Library of Cookery Volume 5 Fruit
Womans Institute Library of Cookery Volume 5 Fruit
Womans Institute Library of Cookery Volume 5 Fruit
VOLUME FIVE
PREFACE
This volume, the fifth of the Woman's Institute Library of Cookery, deals with the varieties of fruits and the desserts that
can be made from them, the canning and preserving of foods, the making of confections of every description, beverages
and their place in the diet, and every phase of the planning of meals.
With fruits becoming less seasonal and more a daily food, an understanding of them is of great value to the housewife. In
Fruit and Fruit Desserts, she first learns their place in the diet, their nature, composition, and food value. Then she
proceeds with the preparation and serving of every variety of fruit. Included in this section also are fruit cocktails, those
refreshing appetizers often used to introduce a special meal.
To understand how to preserve perishable foods in the seasons of plenty for the times when they are not obtainable is a
valuable part of a housewife's knowledge. Canning and Drying deals with two ways of preserving foodstuffs, treating
carefully the equipment needed and all the methods that can be employed and showing by means of excellent
illustrations, one of them in natural colors, every part of the procedure followed. The fruits and vegetables that permit of
canning, as well as certain meats and fish, are taken up in a systematic manner.
Jelly Making, Preserving, and Pickling continues a discussion of the home preservation of foods, showing how they can
be kept for long periods of time not by sterilization, but with the aid of preservatives. Each one of these methods is
treated as to its principles, equipment, and the procedure to be followed. After trying the numerous recipes given, the
housewife will be able to show with pride the results of her efforts, for nothing adds more to the attractiveness and
palatability of a meal than a choice jelly, conserve, marmalade, or jam.
Confections deals with that very delightful and fascinating part of cookery--confection making. Not only are home-made
confections cheaper than commercially made ones, but they usually contain more wholesome materials, so it is to the
housewife's advantage to familiarize herself with the making of this food. Recipes are given for all varieties of
confections, including taffies, caramels, cream candies, and the confections related to them. Fondant making is treated in
detail with illustrations showing every step and directions for making many unusual kinds.
Though beverages often receive only slight consideration, they are so necessary that the body cannot exist very long
without them. In Beverages is discussed the relation of beverages to meals, the classes of beverages, and the
preparation of those required by the human system, as well as the proper way to serve them. In addition to coffee, tea,
cocoa, chocolate, and cereal beverages, fruit, soft, and nourishing drinks receive their share of attention.
To be a successful home maker, it is not enough for a housewife to know how to prepare food; she must also understand
how to buy it, how to look after the household accounts, what constitutes correct diet for each member of her family, how
to plan menus for her regular meals and for special occasions, and the essentials of good table service. All these things,
and many more, she learns in The Planning of Meals, which completes this volume.
CONTENTS
FRUIT AND FRUIT DESSERTS
Fruit in the Diet
Composition of Fruits
Food Value of Fruits
Preparing and Serving Fruits
Blackberries
Blueberries
Cranberries
Raspberries
Strawberries
Miscellaneous Berries
Apples
Apricots
Cherries
Grapes
Peaches
Pears
Plums
Quinces
Rhubarb
Grapefruit
Lemons
Oranges
Miscellaneous Citrus Fruits
Bananas
Pineapples
Miscellaneous Tropical Fruits
Melons
Fruit Cocktails
Dates
Figs
Prunes
Raisins
Dried Apples, Apricots, and Peaches
CANNING AND DRYING
Necessity for Preserving Foods
Principles of Canning
General Equipment for Canning
Open-Kettle Method
Cold-Pack Method
Procedure in the One-Period Cold-Pack Method
Procedure in the Fractional-Sterilization Method
Steam-Pressure Methods
Canning with Tin Cans
Oven Method
Preparation for Canning
Directions for Canning Vegetables
Directions for Canning Fruits
Sirups for Canning Fruits
Canning Meat and Fish
Storing and Serving Canned Foods
Scoring Canned Foods
Principles of Drying
Drying Methods
Directions for Drying Vegetables and Fruits
Storing and Cooking Dried Foods
CONFECTIONS
Nature of Confections
Composition of Confections
Foundation Materials in Confections
Flavorings
Colorings
Acids
Food Materials
Equipment for Confection Making
Cooking the Mixture
Pouring and Cooling the Mixture
Finishing Candies
Taffies and Similar Candies
Caramels
Fudge and Related Candies
Fondant and Related Creams
Miscellaneous Confections
Serving Candy
BEVERAGES
Nature and Classes of Beverages
Water in Beverages
Relation of Beverages to Meals
Alcoholic Beverages
Stimulating Beverages
History and Production of Coffee
Preparation of Coffee
Serving Coffee
History and Production of Tea
Preparation of Tea
Serving Tea
Nature and Selection of Cocoa and Chocolate
Preparation of Cocoa and Chocolate
Serving Cocoa and Chocolate
Cereal Beverages
Ingredients for Fruit Beverages
Preparation of Fruit Beverages
Soft Drinks
Nourishing Beverages
INDEX
NATURE OF FRUITS
ADVANCE IN FRUIT CULTIVATION
8. It is sometimes difficult to distinguish between vegetables and fruits. For instance, the tomato is in reality a fruit, but it
is commonly used as a vegetable, and rhubarb is more of a vegetable than a fruit, but it is always used as a fruit. It can
therefore be seen that the line between vegetables and fruits is not clearly drawn. It is well to remember that fruit is
usually the edible pulpy mass covering the seeds of various plants and trees, and that it is generally cooked or eaten raw
with sugar, whereas vegetables are seldom sweetened in cooking.
9. Great strides have been made in the cultivation of fruit. Many varieties that formerly grew wild are now commonly
cultivated. Most of the cultivated fruits are superior to the same kind in the wild state, at least in size and appearance, but
often there seems to be a loss of flavor. Through cultivation, some fruits that were almost inedible in their wild state on
account of containing so many seeds have been made seedless. Also, through cross-cultivation, varieties of fruit different
from what formerly existed have been obtained. An example of such fruit is the loganberry which is a cross between a red
raspberry and a blackberry and retains many of the qualities of each. However, some small fruits, such as blueberries, or
huckleberries, are still grown wild and marketed only from their wild source.
10. While fruit is usually improved by cultivation, there has been a tendency through this means to produce fruits that will
stand up for long periods of time, so that they may be marketed at great distances from the place where they are grown.
For instance, apples, especially those found in the market in the spring, and other fruits, which look very fine, will many
times be found to have a tough skin and to be almost tasteless.
In general, fruits of delicate flavor and texture cannot be kept very long after they have ripened. To stand shipping, they
must be picked in their green stage; then if they are kept in the right temperature they will ripen after picking. Bananas
that are to be shipped a long distance are picked when perfectly green, but by the time the consumer buys them they are
usually well ripened. In addition to bananas, a few other tropical fruits are shipped out of their native climates in small
numbers and are sold at very high prices. However, many tropical fruits cannot be shipped to the Northern States
because of their perishable nature.
TABLE I
COMPOSITION AND FOOD VALUE OF FRUITS
Mineral Food Value
Fruit Water Protein Fat Carbohydrate Matter per Pound,
in Calories
Apples, fresh 84.6 .4 .5 14.2 .3 290
Apples, dried 28.1 1.6 2.2 66.1 2.0 1,350
Apricots, fresh 85.0 1.1 -- 13.4 .5 270
Apricots, dried 29.4 4.7 1.0 62.5 2.4 1,290
Bananas 75.3 1.3 .6 22.0 .8 460
Blackberries 86.3 1.3 1.0 10.9 .5 270
Cherries 80.9 1.0 .8 16.7 .6 365
Cranberries 88.9 .4 .6 9.9 .2 215
Currants 85.0 1.5 -- 12.8 .7 265
Dates 15.4 2.1 2.8 78.4 1.3 1,615
Figs, fresh 79.1 1.5 -- 18.8 .6 380
Figs, dried 18.8 4.3 .3 74.2 2.4 1,475
Grapefruit 86.9 .8 .2 11.6 .5 240
Grapes 77.4 1.3 1.6 19.2 .5 450
Huckleberries 81.9 .6 .6 16.6 .3 345
Lemons 89.3 1.0 .7 8.5 .5 205
Muskmelons 89.5 .6 -- 9.3 .6 185
Nectarines 82.9 .6 -- 15.9 .6 305
Oranges 86.9 .8 .2 11.6 .5 240
Peaches 89.4 .7 .1 9.4 .4 190
Pears 84.4 .6 .5 14.1 .4 295
Persimmons 66.1 .8 .7 31.5 .9 630
Pineapple 89.3 .4 .3 9.7 .3 200
Plums 78.4 1.0 -- 20.1 .5 395
Pomegranates 76.8 1.5 1.6 19.5 .6 460
Prunes, fresh 79.6 .9 -- 18.9 .6 370
Prunes, dried 22.3 2.1 -- 73.3 2.3 1,400
Raisins 14.6 2.6 3.3 76.1 3.4 1,605
Raspberries, red 85.8 1.0 -- 12.6 .6 255
Raspberries, black 84.1 1.7 1.0 12.6 .6 310
Rhubarb 94.4 .6 .7 3.6 .7 105
Strawberries 90.4 1.0 .6 7.4 .6 180
Watermelon 92.4 .4 .2 6.7 .3 140
18. The juice of fruits that contain very little sugar and a large quantity of acid, such as the lemon, may be used for the
seasoning of food in much the same way that vinegar is used. It may also be diluted with other liquids and used for a
beverage. Then, again, various kinds of fruit juices are subjected to a process of fermentation and, through the
production of another acid, are made into vinegar and wines. When apples are treated in this way, the fermentation
produces acetic acid and, in addition, a certain amount of alcohol. It is on this principle that the making of wines
depends.
19. WATER IN FRUIT.--The water content of fresh fruits is very high, reaching 94 per cent. in some varieties. Dried
fruits, on the other hand, contain much less water, their content being in some cases as low as 15 to 20 per cent. It
naturally follows that the fruits low in water are high in food value, while those containing considerable water have in their
composition less of the material that adds food value. The high percentage of water in fresh fruits, together with the acids
they contain, accounts for the fact that these fruits are so refreshing. Fruits of this kind, in addition to having this
refreshing quality, help to provide the necessary liquid in the diet.
20. TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION AND FOOD VALUE OF FRUITS.--Just as fruits vary in their composition, so do
they vary in their food value. This fact is clearly shown in Table I, which gives the percentage of food substances
contained in different fruits and the food value per pound, in calories, that these fruits contain. As in the table showing
the composition and food value of vegetables given in Vegetables, Part 1, the figures in this table are taken from
Atwater's Table of American Food Materials and refer to the edible part of the material. Reference to Table I, as progress
is made with the study of fruits and their preparation, will be of much assistance in learning the place that fruits occupy in
the dietary.
BERRIES
NATURE AND CARE
30. BERRIES are among the most perishable fruits and begin to come into market early in the summer season. In most
localities, the berry season begins with strawberries and ends with blackberries. Because the numerous varieties are
somewhat juicy and soft and therefore extremely perishable, they will not stand shipping and storage for long periods of
time. The quality of berries depends much on the nature of the season, as well as on the locality in which the berries are
grown. If there is a good supply of rain, the berries will be very moist, containing a large amount of pulp in proportion to
seeds and skins; but if the season is very dry, the berries are likely to be less moist and consequently less palatable. A
general use of berries, and to almost every one the most important, is the making of jams, jellies, and preserves.
In the preparation of berries for the table, they should be handled as little as possible in order to prevent them from
breaking up and losing their shape. After being purchased, they should be kept where it is cool until they are to be used.
It is advisable not to wash them until just before serving, as the extra handling usually bruises them and causes them to
spoil.
The different varieties of berries are here taken up in alphabetical order so as to make the matter easy for reference.
Those of which extensive use is made contain one or more recipes that may be followed without any hesitation. In a few
instances, as in the case of currants, recipes are not included, as the fruits are limited to only a few uses and directions
for these occur elsewhere.
BLACKBERRIES
31. BLACKBERRIES come late in the summer season. Good varieties of cultivated blackberries, which are large in size
and contain comparatively few seeds, are the best for use. However, in some localities, uncultivated blackberries grow in
sufficient quantities to be useful for food. Blackberries are used extensively for jam, as they make an excellent kind that
appeals to most persons. Their juice may be used for jelly, but if the berries are to be utilized most successfully in this
way they must be picked before they are thoroughly ripe or some fruit that will supply an additional quantity of pectin may
have to be combined with them. Fresh blackberries may be served for dessert with sugar and cream. Otherwise, the use
of this fruit in desserts is not very extensive, except where the canned berries are used for pastry or pie or are eaten for
sauce or where the jam is used in making up various dessert dishes.
Very little preparation is necessary in getting blackberries ready to serve. They should simply be looked over carefully,
so that all imperfect ones and all foreign matter may be removed, and then washed in cold water.
32. BLACKBERRY SPONGE.--One of the few desserts made from fresh blackberries is that explained in the
accompanying recipe and known as blackberry sponge. This is very delicious, for the berries are combined with cake
and the combination then served with whipped cream.
BLACKBERRY SPONGE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 qt. blackberries
3/4 c. sugar
1 c. water
4 pieces plain loaf or sponge cake
Whipped cream
Heat half of the berries with the sugar and the water until they are mushy. Then force the whole through a sieve. Cut the
cake into cubes and put them into a bowl. Pour the juice and the blackberry pulp on the cake. Press the mixture down
with a spoon until it is quite solid and set in the refrigerator or some other cold place to cool. Turn out of the bowl on a
large plate, garnish with the remaining berries, heap with the whipped cream, and serve.
BLUEBERRIES
33. BLUEBERRIES, which are not cultivated, but grow in the wild state, are a many-seeded berry, blue or bluish-black in
color. Huckleberries, although belonging to a different class, are commonly regarded as blueberries by many persons.
Berries of this kind occur in many varieties. Some grow on low bushes close to the ground, others are found on taller
bushes, and still others grow on very tall bushes. Again, some grow in dry ground in a mountainous region, others grow
in a level, sandy soil, and other varieties succeed better on swampy soil. Berries of this class are not so perishable as
most other berries, but in many localities they cannot be purchased at all, for, as a rule, they are used only in the
immediate vicinity in which they grow.
Blueberries have small seeds and coarse, tough skins. They contain very little acid, but are excellent for pies and sauce.
However, they will make jelly very well if there are a few partly ripe berries among them, and their flavor is improved if
some fruit containing acid is added to them. To prepare them for use, whether they are to be served raw or cooked, look
them over carefully in order that all green or spoiled ones are removed and then wash them well in cold water.
34. PRESSED BLUEBERRY PUDDING.--A delicious pudding can be made by combining blueberries with slices of
bread. The accompanying recipe gives directions for pudding of this kind.
PRESSED BLUEBERRY PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)
1 qt. blueberries
1 c. water
1/2 c. sugar
8 slices bread
Whipped cream
Put the blueberries, water, and sugar into a saucepan and boil for a few minutes. Put four of the slices of bread, which
should be cut about 1/2 inch thick, in the bottom of a square pan. Pour one-half of the blueberries and the juice over the
bread, and put the four remaining slices of bread on top of the berries. Pour the rest of the blueberries and juice over the
bread. Place another square pan over the top and weight it down so as to press the pudding. Then set the pudding in
the refrigerator until it is cool. Cut into squares, remove from the pan, and serve with sweetened whipped cream.
35. BLUEBERRY PUDDING.--A baking-powder-biscuit dough baked with blueberries makes a very appetizing dessert.
To serve with a pudding of this kind, a cream or a hard sauce should be made.
BLUEBERRY PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
Baking-powder-biscuit dough
1 qt. blueberries
1/2 c. sugar
Make a rather thin baking-powder-biscuit mixture. Spread a layer of this in the bottom of a square pan and cover it with a
layer of the blueberries. Pour 1/4 cupful of the sugar over the berries and then cover with another layer of the dough.
Over this, pour the remainder of the berries and sprinkle the rest of the sugar over all. Place in the oven and bake for
about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven, cut into squares, and serve with cream or hard sauce.
CRANBERRIES
36. CRANBERRIES grow wild in many localities, but most persons who use them buy them in the market as a cultivated
fruit. Their season begins in the fall and lasts until early spring, and during this time they can usually be obtained in the
market. They contain considerable acid and consequently require a great deal of sugar to make them sufficiently sweet
to be palatable. They are more often served as an accompaniment to a dinner course, especially with turkey or other
poultry, than eaten as a sauce. At times they are used in the making of muffins, pudding, and various kinds of pastry.
One of the advantages of cranberries is that they keep very well in the raw state. However, before they are cooked, they
should be looked over carefully, freed of any stems, foreign material, and spoiled berries, and then washed thoroughly in
cold water.
37. CRANBERRY SAUCE.--One can hardly imagine a turkey dinner without cranberry sauce as one of the
accompaniments; but it may be served when meats other than turkey are used. In fact, because of its tart flavor, it forms
a most appetizing addition to any meal.
CRANBERRY SAUCE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1-1/2 c. water
2 c. sugar
4 c. cranberries
Add the water to the cranberries and place over the fire to cook in a closely covered kettle. As soon as the skins of the
berries have cracked, add the sugar. Cook slowly for a few minutes or until the sugar is completely dissolved. Remove
from the fire and cool before serving.
38. CRANBERRY JELLY.--If the cranberries are preferred without the skins, cranberry jelly should be tried. When cool,
this solidifies and may be served in attractive ways.
CRANBERRY JELLY
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 c. water
1 qt. cranberries
2 c. sugar
Pour the water over the cranberries and cook them for 10 or 15 minutes. Then mash them through a sieve or a colander
with a wooden potato masher. Add the sugar to the mashed cranberries. Return to the heat and cook for 5 to 8 minutes
longer. Turn into a mold and cool.
RASPBERRIES
39. RASPBERRIES come in two general varieties, which are commonly known as red and black. There are many
species of each kind, and all of them are much favored, as they are delicious fruit. As a raw fruit, raspberries have their
most satisfactory use, but they may be made into several excellent desserts and they are also much used for canning
and preserving. They are a perishable fruit and so do not keep well. Because of their softness, they have to be washed
very carefully to prevent them from breaking or becoming mushy.
40. RED-RASPBERRY WHIP.--No more dainty dessert can be made than raspberry whip, which is explained in the
accompanying recipe. Cake that is not very rich, such as ladyfingers or sponge cake, makes a very good accompaniment
for this dessert.
RED-RASPBERRY WHIP
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 qt. raspberries
1 c. powdered sugar
2 egg whites
Put the raspberries, sugar, and egg whites into a bowl. Mash the berries before starting to whip. Beat the mixture with an
egg whip until it is reduced to a pulpy mass and is stiff and fluffy. Pile lightly into a bowl, chill, and serve with ladyfingers
or sponge cake.
41. RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE.--Either black or red raspberries make a delicious shortcake when combined with a
cake or a biscuit mixture. Directions for making such a shortcake are given in the accompanying recipe.
RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 qt. raspberries
1 c. sugar
Biscuit or plain-cake dough
Mash or chop the berries, as preferred, and add the sugar to them. Bake the biscuit or plain-cake dough in a single, thick
layer, and when it has been removed from the pan split it into halves with a sharp knife. Spread half the berries between
the two pieces of biscuit or cake and the remaining half on top. Cut into pieces of the desired size and serve with plain or
whipped cream.
STRAWBERRIES
42. STRAWBERRIES are perhaps more popular than any other kind of berry. They are reddish in color, have a
somewhat acid flavor, and range in size from 1/2 inch to 2 inches in diameter. Strawberries are much used for jams and
preserves; they may also be used for making a delicious jelly, but as they lack pectin this ingredient must be supplied.
These berries are eaten fresh to a great extent, but are also much used for pastry making and for various kinds of
dessert; in fact, there is practically no limit to the number of recipes that may be given for strawberries. Before they are
used in any way, they should be washed thoroughly in cold water and then their hulls should be removed.
[Illustration: FIG. 1]
43. STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE.--For strawberry shortcake, either a biscuit or a plain-cake mixture may be used,
some persons preferring the one and other persons the other. This may be made in a large cake, as shown in Fig. 1, and
then cut into pieces, or it may be made into individual cakes, as Fig. 2 shows. Whichever plan is followed, the cakes are
split in the same way and the crushed berries inserted between the halves. This dish may be made more attractive in
appearance if a few of the finest berries are saved and used as a garniture.
STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 qt. strawberries
1 c. sugar
Biscuit or plain cake dough
Mash or chop the berries, add the sugar to them, and let them stand until the sugar has dissolved. Bake the biscuit or
plain-cake dough in a single thick layer or, if desired, bake it in individual cakes, cutting the biscuit dough with a cookie
cutter and putting the cake mixture in muffin pans. Remove from the pan, cut in two with a sharp knife, and spread half of
the berries over the lower piece. Set the upper piece on the berries. In the case of the large cake, sprinkle powdered
sugar over the top and then on this arrange a number of the largest and finest of the berries, as Fig. 1 shows, as a
garniture. Cut in pieces of the desired size and serve with or without either plain or whipped cream. In preparing the
individual cakes, spread a spoonful or two of the crushed berries over the top, as Fig. 2 shows, and serve with whipped
cream.
44. STRAWBERRY WHIP.--Strawberries may be used instead of raspberries in the recipe for red-raspberry whip. When
prepared in this way and served with fresh cake, strawberries make a very appetizing dessert.
45. OTHER STRAWBERRY DESSERTS.--If it is desired to serve strawberries just with sugar, they can be made
attractive with very little effort. Garnish a plate with some of the strawberry leaves and on them place a few fine large
strawberries that have been washed but have not had the hulls removed. Serve a small dish of powdered sugar with the
strawberries, so that they may be dipped into the sugar and eaten by holding the hull of the berry in the fingers.
Strawberries crushed with sugar and served with blanc mange or custard also make a very delicious dessert.
[Illustration: FIG. 2]
MISCELLANEOUS BERRIES
46. CURRANTS come in three varieties--red, white, and black. They are not often eaten fresh, but are generally
utilized for making jellies, jams, and preserves, or for pastry and pies. When they are to be used for jelly, it is not
necessary to pick them from the stems, as they may be washed and cooked on their stems. Some varieties of currants
are dried and these are used extensively in the making of cakes, cookies, etc. The usefulness of this fruit as a food is not
so great as many others. No recipes are given for it because of its little use in the fresh form.
47. GOOSEBERRIES, like currants, are somewhat limited in their variety of uses, being seldom used except for jelly,
preserves, and pies. Before gooseberries are ripe they are light green in color and rather sour in taste, but as they ripen
the amount of acid they contain decreases, so that they become sweet in flavor and change to brownish-purple. Green
gooseberries are often canned for pies, and when in this state or when partly ripe they are also made up into many kinds
of preserves and jelly. In their preparation for these uses, both the stems and the blossom ends should be removed. As a
rule, berries of this kind keep very well and stand considerable handling because their outside skin is very tough.
48. LOGANBERRIES are a fruit produced by crossing a variety of red raspberries with a species of blackberry. They are
not very common, but are an excellent berry and are well liked by those who can obtain them. They may be used for any
purpose for which either raspberries or blackberries are used. Therefore, in the recipes given for these two kinds of
berries, loganberries may be substituted whenever they can be obtained.
NON-TROPICAL FRUITS
NATURE AND USE
49. Besides the berries that have just been described, there are a large number of fruits that are grown in temperate
climates and are therefore regarded as NON-TROPICAL FRUITS. Extensive use is made of these fruits in the regions in
which they are grown or in places that are within easy shipping distances of the source of supply. All of them have a
protective covering, or skin, and consequently keep for long periods of time if they are not too ripe when picked. Those
which contain the highest percentage of water are the most perishable.
APPLES
50. APPLES, of which there are at least a thousand varieties, are probably the best known of the non-tropical fruits.
Some apples mature early in the summer, while others do not ripen until late in the fall. The late apples can be kept
during the entire winter if they are properly stored, but the summer varieties must generally be used immediately, as they
do not have good keeping qualities. In each locality in which apples are grown, a few varieties seem to be especially
popular and are used to the exclusion of others. Some apples are good for one purpose and some for another. For
instance, many that are excellent if eaten raw are not good for cooking purposes, and others that cook well are not
suitable for eating. It is therefore a good idea for the housewife to become familiar with the varieties of apples raised in
her community and to learn the use to which each kind can be put to advantage.
Apples of all kinds may be prepared in a large variety of ways. They are much used for sauce, pie, and numerous
desserts, as well as for jelly and, with various fruit mixtures, for jams and preserves. The juice of apples, which upon
being extracted is known as cider, is used in a number of ways, but its most important use is in the manufacture of
vinegar.
51. APPLE SAUCE.--When apple sauce is to be made, apples that are somewhat sour and that will cook soft easily
should be selected. This is a dessert that can be made all during the winter when it is often difficult to obtain other fruits
fresh. It is usually served when roast pork is the main dish of a meal, but is just as appetizing when served with other
foods.
APPLE SAUCE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
10 medium-sized apples
1/2 c. water
1 c. sugar
Wash the apples, cut them in quarters, remove the cores, and, if desired, peel them. Put them into a saucepan, add the
water, and allow them to cook until they are very soft. If the apples are inclined to be dry, a little more water may be
necessary. When done, force them through a colander or a sieve, add the sugar to the pulp, and return to the stove.
Cook until the sugar is completely dissolved and, if necessary, until the apple sauce is slightly thickened, stirring
frequently to prevent scorching. Remove from the heat, and season with lemon peel cut fine, cinnamon, or nutmeg.
If there are apples in supply that do not cook well for apple sauce, they may be peeled, quartered, and cored, and
cooked with the sugar and water. Then, instead of being forced through a sieve, they should be allowed to remain in
pieces in the sirup.
52. PORCUPINE APPLES.--A pleasing change in the way of an apple dessert may be had by making porcupine apples.
PORCUPINE APPLES
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
6 large apples
1 c. sugar
1 c. water
2 doz. almonds
Currant jelly
Wash, core, and pare the apples. Make a sirup by bringing the sugar and water to the boiling point. Put the apples into
the sirup, cook on one side for several minutes, and then turn and cook on the other side. Do not allow the apples to
cook completely in the sirup, but when they are still hard remove them and continue to boil the sirup down. Set the
apples in a shallow pan, stick the almonds, which should be blanched, into them so that they will project like porcupine
quills, sprinkle them with sugar, and bake in the oven until they are soft and the almonds slightly brown. Remove from the
oven, fill the center of each with currant jelly, pour the juice over them, and serve.
53. BAKED APPLES.--Nothing is more palatable than baked apples if a juicy, sour variety can be secured.
BAKED APPLES
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
6 medium-sized sour apples
1/2 c. brown sugar
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1 Tb. butter
1/2 c. water
Wash and core the apples, place them in a baking dish, and fill the centers with the brown sugar mixed with the
cinnamon. Put a small piece of butter on top of each apple, pour the water in the bottom of the pan, set in the oven, and
bake until the apples are soft. Baste frequently with the juice that collects in the bottom of the pan. Serve hot or cold, as
desired.
Apples baked in this way may be improved in flavor by serving grape juice over them. Heat the grape juice, and then, if
the apples are to be served hot, pour about 2 tablespoonfuls over each apple just before serving. In case the apples are
to be served cold, pour the hot grape juice over them and then allow them to cool.
54. MAPLE APPLES.--Apples cooked in maple sirup have a very pleasing flavor. The sirup that remains in the pan is
poured over the apples when they are served.
MAPLE APPLES
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
6 medium-sized apples
1 c. maple sirup
Wash, peel, and core the apples. Bring the maple sirup to the boiling point in a saucepan. Drop the apples into the hot
sirup, cook first on one side, and then turn and cook on the other. As soon as they become soft, remove from the sirup,
pour the sirup over them, and serve.
55. STEAMED APPLES.--If it is desired to retain the color in apples that have red skins, they should be steamed instead
of baked, for the color is lost in baking. Prepare apples that are to be steamed by washing them and removing the cores.
Place the apples in a pan with a perforated bottom, put this over a pan of boiling water, cover closely, and steam until
they are soft. Serve in any desired way. They will be found to be delicious in flavor and attractive in appearance.
APRICOTS
56. APRICOTS, in appearance, are a cross between peaches and plums. They are grown extensively in the western part
of the United States, but they can be grown in any climate where peaches and plums are raised. As they contain
considerable acid, they require a large quantity of sugar when they are cooked with their skins and seeds. They are
used most frequently for canning, but they make excellent marmalades and jams. They are also dried in large quantities
and, in this form, make delicious desserts.
57. APRICOT SOUFFLÉ.--No more attractive as well as delicious dessert can be prepared than apricot soufflé, which is
illustrated in Fig. 3. The apricots are just tart enough to give it a very pleasing flavor.
[Illustration: Fig. 3]
APRICOT SOUFFLÉ
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 Tb. butter
4 Tb. flour
1/3 c. sugar
Pinch of salt
1 c. scalded milk
3 eggs
1/2 tsp. vanilla
1 can apricots
Melt the butter, add the flour, sugar, and salt, and stir in the hot milk. Bring this mixture to the boiling point. Separate the
yolks and whites of the eggs. Beat the yolks until they are thick and lemon-colored, and then pour the hot mixture over
them, stirring constantly to prevent the eggs from curding. Beat the whites until they are stiff, fold them into the mixture,
and add the vanilla. Place the apricots without juice in a layer on the bottom of the buttered baking dish, pour the mixture
over them, and bake for 45 to 60 minutes in a hot oven, when it should be baked through and slightly brown on top and
should appear as in Fig. 3. Remove from the oven and serve with the sirup from the apricots. Whipped cream may also
be added if desired.
CHERRIES
58. CHERRIES come in numerous varieties, some of which are sweet and others sour. The method of using them in
cookery depends largely on the kind of cherry that is to be used. Any of the varieties may be canned with varying
quantities of sugar and then used for sauce. They also make excellent preserves, especially the sour varieties. However,
they do not contain pectin in sufficient quantity for jelly, so that when cherry jelly is desired, other fruit or material
containing pectin must be used with the cherries. When purchased in the market, cherries usually have their stems on.
They should be washed before the stems are removed. The seeds may be taken out by hand or by means of cherry
seeders made especially for this purpose.
59. CHERRY FRITTERS.--Something different in the way of dessert can be had by making cherry fritters according to
the accompanying recipe.
CHERRY FRITTERS
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 c. flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
2 Tb. sugar
1/2 c. milk
1 egg
2 Tb. butter
1/2 c. cherries cut into halves
Mix and sift the dry ingredients, add the milk and egg, and beat all together well. Add the melted butter and fold in the
cherries. Drop by spoonfuls into hot fat and fry until brown. Remove from the fat, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and
serve.
GRAPES
60. GRAPES are a fruit extensively cultivated both for eating and for the making of wines and raisins. Although found in
many varieties, they naturally divide themselves into two general classes: those which retain their skins, such as the
Malaga, Tokay, Muscat, Cornichon, Emperor, etc., and those which slip out of their skins easily, such as the Concord,
Niagara, Delaware, Catawba, etc.
Grapes are much used as a fresh fruit. When they are to be used in this way, the bunches should be put into a colander
and washed thoroughly by running cold water over them. Then all the imperfect ones should be removed and the grapes
kept cool until they are to be served. Clean grape leaves make an attractive garnish for the individual plates or the
serving dish on which the grapes are placed. Grapes are also used extensively for making jelly and grape juice, a
beverage that is well liked.
61. It will be found that through proper care grapes can be kept a long time in the fall after they are removed from the
vines, provided perfect bunches are obtained and they are picked before they have become too ripe. To preserve such
grapes, dip the ends of the stems into melted sealing wax in order to prevent the evaporation of moisture through the
stems. Then, in a cool, dry place, lay the bunches out on racks in a single layer, taking care not to crush nor bruise them.
62. UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE WITH WATER.--Grape juice may be made either with or without water. That in
which water is used in the making usually requires no diluting when it is served as a beverage. Concord grapes are
perhaps used more commonly for the making of grape juice than any other variety, but other kinds, particularly Catawbas
and Niagaras, may be used as well.
UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE WITH WATER
12 qt. grapes
2 qt. water
4 lb. sugar
Wash the grapes and remove them from the stems. Put them with the water into a preserving kettle, and heat gradually
until the skins of the grapes burst. Dip off as much juice as possible, and put it into a jelly bag. Continue to heat and dip
off the juice in this way until the pulp is comparatively dry. Then add a little more water to the pulp and put it in the bag to
drip. When all the juice has dripped through the bag, pour it back into the preserving kettle, add the sugar, and bring to
the boiling point. Stir frequently, so that the sugar will be well dissolved. Pour into jars or bottles, seal, and sterilize by
cooking for about 5 minutes in hot water that nearly covers the bottles. Any large receptacle that will hold sufficient water
may be used as a sterilizer.
63. UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE WITHOUT WATER.--When grape juice is made without water, it is both thick and
rich. Consequently, it should usually be diluted with water when it is served as a beverage.
UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE WITHOUT WATER
12 qt. grapes
3 lb. sugar
Wash the grapes, remove them from the stems, and put them into a preserving kettle. Heat very slowly and mash with a
spoon, so that enough juice will be pressed out and thus prevent the grapes from scorching. Remove the juice as it forms
and put it into a jelly bag. When all of it has been taken from the grapes and strained through the jelly bag, strain the pulp
and put all the juice into a preserving kettle, add the sugar, and bring to the boiling point. Pour into bottles or jars, seal,
and sterilize in a water bath for about 5 minutes.
PEACHES
64. PEACHES may be divided into two general classes: those having a yellow skin and those having a white skin. In
each of these classes are found both clingstone and freestone peaches; that is, peaches whose pulp adheres tightly to
the seed, or stone, and those in which the pulp can be separated easily from the stone. When peaches are purchased
for canning or for any use in which it is necessary to remove the seeds, freestones should be selected. Clingstones may
be used when the stones are allowed to remain in the fruit, as in pickled peaches, and for jams, preserves, or butters, in
which small pieces may be used or the entire peach mashed. Whether to select yellow or white peaches, however, is
merely a matter of taste, as some persons prefer one kind and some the other.
65. Peaches are not satisfactory for jelly making, because they do not contain pectin. However, the juice of peaches
makes a very good sirup if it is sweetened and cooked until it is thick. Such sirup is really just as delicious as maple sirup
with griddle cakes. Peaches are used to a large extent for canning and are also made into preserves, jams, and butters.
In addition, they are much used without cooking, for they are favored by most persons. When they are to be served
whole, they should be washed and then wiped with a damp cloth to remove the fuzz. The skins may be removed by
blanching the peaches in boiling water or peeling them with a sharp knife. If they are then sliced or cut in any desirable
way and served with cream and sugar, they make a delicious dessert.
66. STEWED PEACHES.--Fresh stewed peaches make a very desirable dessert to serve with simple cake or cookies.
Children may very readily eat such dessert without danger of digestive disturbances. Adding a tablespoonful of butter to
the hot stewed peaches and then serving them over freshly made toast makes a delightful breakfast dish. The cooked
peaches may also be run through a sieve, reheated with a little flour or corn starch to thicken them slightly, and then
served hot on buttered toast.
STEWED PEACHES
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)
1-1/2 qt. peaches
1 lb. sugar
1 c. water
Peel the peaches, cut into halves, and remove the seeds. Put the sugar and water over the fire to cook in a saucepan
and bring to a rapid boil. Add the peaches and cook until they may be easily pierced with a fork.
67. BAKED PEACHES.--When peaches are to be baked, select large firm ones. Wash them thoroughly and cut them
into halves, removing the stones. Place the peaches in a shallow pan, fill the cavities with sugar, and dot the top of each
half with butter. Set in the oven and bake until the peaches become soft. Serve hot or cold, either with or without cream,
as desired.
PEARS
68. PEARS, like apples, come in summer and winter varieties. The summer varieties must be utilized during the summer
and early fall or must be canned at this time to preserve them for future use. Winter pears, however, may be stored, for
they keep like apples. A number of the small varieties of pears are much used for pickling. Pears are most valuable when
they are canned and used for sauce. They cannot be used for jelly, because they do not contain sufficient acid nor
pectin. The juice from canned pears, because of its mild flavor, is often found to be valuable in the feeding of invalids or
persons who have gastric troubles. It is usually advisable to pick pears before they are entirely ripe, for then they may be
kept for a considerable length of time and will ripen slowly.
69. BAKED PEARS.--Although pears are rather mild in flavor, they are delicious when baked if lemon is added. Wash
thoroughly pears that are to be baked, cut them into halves, and remove the cores. Place them in a shallow pan, fill the
holes in the center with sugar, dot with butter, and place a thin slice of lemon over each piece. Pour a few spoonfuls of
water into the pan, set in the oven, and bake until the pears can be easily pierced with a fork. Remove from the oven and
serve hot or cold.
PLUMS
70. PLUMS are among the very strong acid fruits. Some varieties of them seem to be more tart after they are cooked
than before, but, as already explained, this condition is due to the fact that the acid contained in the skin and around the
seeds is liberated during the cooking. This fruit, of which there are numerous varieties, is generally used for canning,
preserving, etc. It does not make jelly successfully in all cases unless some material containing pectin is added. Very firm
plums may have the skins removed by blanching if it seems advisable to take them off.
71. STEWED PLUMS.--Because of the many varieties of plums with their varying degrees of acidity, it is difficult to make
a recipe with a quantity of sugar that will suit all kinds. The recipe given here is suitable for medium sour plums, such as
egg plums and the common red and yellow varieties. Damsons and green gages will probably require more sugar, while
prune plums may require less.
STEWED PLUMS
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)
1-1/2 qt. plums
1 lb. sugar
3/4 c. water
Wash the plums and prick each one two or three times with a fork. Bring the sugar and water to the boiling point and,
when rapidly boiling, add the plums. Cook until they are tender, remove from the fire, cool, and serve.
QUINCES
72. QUINCES are one of the non-perishable fruits. They mature late in the fall and may be kept during the winter in much
the same way as apples. While quinces are not used so extensively as most other fruits, there are many uses to which
they may be put and much can be done with a small quantity. For instance, various kinds of preserves and marmalades
may be made entirely of quinces or of a combination of quinces and some other fruit. They also make excellent jelly. As
their flavor is very strong, a small quantity of quince pulp used with apples or some other fruit will give the typical flavor of
quinces. When combined with sweet apples, they make a very delicious sauce.
The skin of quinces is covered with a thick fuzz, which can be removed by wiping the fruit with a damp cloth. A point that
should be remembered about quinces is that they are extremely hard and require long cooking to make them tender and
palatable.
73. STEWED QUINCES AND APPLES.--The combination of quinces and apples is very delicious. Sweet apples, which
are difficult to use as a cooked fruit because of a lack of flavor, may be combined very satisfactorily with quinces, for the
quinces impart a certain amount of their strong flavor to the bland apples and thus the flavor of both is improved.
STEWED QUINCES AND APPLES
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 qt. sweet apples
1 pt. quinces
1 lb. sugar
1 c. water
Wash, peel, core, and quarter the fruit. Add the sugar to the water and place over the fire until it conies to a rapid boil.
Then add the quinces and cook until they are partly softened. Add the sweet apples and continue the cooking until both
are tender. Remove from the fire, cool, and serve.
RHUBARB
74. RHUBARB is in reality not a fruit, but it is always considered as such because it is cooked with sugar and served as
a fruit. It has the advantage of coming early in the spring before there are many fruits in the market. As it contains a large
quantity of oxalic acid, it is very sour and must be cooked with considerable sugar to become palatable, the addition of
which makes the food value of cooked rhubarb very high. Rhubarb is much used for pies and is frequently canned for
sauce. It is also used as a cheap filler with a more expensive fruit in the making of marmalades, conserves, and jams.
The stems of some varieties of rhubarb are characterized by a great deal of red color, while others are entirely green.
The red rhubarb makes a more attractive dish when it is cooked and served than the green, but it has no better flavor.
The outside of the stem has a skin that may be removed by catching hold of it at one end with a knife and stripping it off
the remainder of the stem. It is not necessary to remove the skin from young and tender rhubarb, but it is often an
advantage to remove it from rhubarb that is old. It should be remembered that the stems of rhubarb contain considerable
water and so require very little liquid in their cooking.
75. STEWED RHUBARB.--Two methods of stewing rhubarb are in practice, the one to select depending on the way it is
preferred. In one method, which keeps the pieces whole, the sugar and water are brought to the boiling point before the
rhubarb is added, while in the other, the rhubarb is cooked with water until it is soft and the sugar then added.
STEWED RHUBARB
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 c. sugar
1/2 c. water
1 qt. cut rhubarb
Mix the sugar and water in a saucepan and bring to the boiling point. Wash the stems of the rhubarb and cut into inch
lengths. Add the rhubarb to the sirup and cook until it is tender enough to be pierced with a fork. If desired, a flavoring of
lemon peel may be added. Turn into a dish, allow to cool, and serve.
If the other method is preferred, cook the rhubarb with the water until it is soft and then add the sugar.
CITRUS FRUITS
CHARACTERISTICS
76. Fruits that contain citric acid are grouped together and are known as CITRUS FRUITS. All of these are similar in
structure, although they differ in size, as will be observed from Fig. 4. Here the citrus fruits most commonly used are
illustrated, the large one in the center being a grapefruit; the two to the left, oranges; the two to the right, lemons; and the
two in the front, tangerines.
[Illustration: FIG. 4]
All varieties of these fruits are tropical or semitropical and are shipped to the North in boxes that contain various
numbers, the number that can be packed in a box depending on the size of the fruit. The south, southeastern, and
western parts of the United States supply practically all of these fruits that are found in the northern markets. They stand
storage well and keep for long periods of time if they are packed before they are too ripe. These characteristics, together
with the fact that they are at their prime at different times in different localities, make it possible to market such fruits
during the entire year, although they are much better at certain seasons than at others.
77. The majority of citrus fruits contain a fair amount of sugar and a great deal of water; consequently, they are very juicy
and refreshing. A few of them, however, such as lemons and limes, contain very little sugar and considerable acid and
are therefore extremely sour. In the use of such varieties, sugar must be added to make them palatable.
The greatest use made of citrus fruits is that of serving them raw. However, they are also used in the making of
marmalades, conserves, and such confections as candied fruits. Then, too, the juice of a number of them, such as
lemons, oranges, and limes, makes very refreshing beverages, so these varieties are much used for this purpose.
GRAPEFRUIT
78. Grapefruit, also known as shaddock, is a large, pale-yellow fruit belonging to the citrus group. One variety, known as
the pomelo, is the kind that is commonly found in the market. It is slightly flattened on both the blossom and stem ends.
Grapefruit has a typical flavor and a slightly bitter taste and contains neither a great deal of sugar nor a large amount of
acid. Because of its refreshing, somewhat acid pulp and juice, it is highly prized as a fruit to be eaten at breakfast or as
an appetizer for a fruit cocktail. It is also much used in the making of fruit salads.
79. SELECTION OF GRAPEFRUIT.--Grapefruit should be selected with care in order that fruit of good quality may be
obtained. Some persons think that to be good grapefruit should be large, but it should be remembered that size is not the
factor by which to judge the quality. The fruit should be heavy for its size and the skin should be fine-grained and even.
Coarse-grained skin, as a rule, is thick and indicates that the pulp is rather pithy and without juice.
[Illustration: FIG. 5]
80. PREPARATION OF GRAPEFRUIT.--Different ways of serving grapefruit are in practice, and it is well that these be
understood. This is generally considered a rather difficult fruit to eat, but if care is exercised in its preparation for the
table it can be eaten with comfort. For preparing grapefruit, a narrow, sharp-bladed paring knife may be used. As is well
known, a grapefruit is always cut apart half way between the stem and the blossom ends and a half served to each
person.
[Illustration: FIG. 6]
81. One method of preparing grapefruit consists in cutting the skin in such a way that the seeds can be taken out and the
pulp then easily removed with a spoon. To prepare it in this way, cut the grapefruit into halves, and then, with a sharp
knife, cut around the pithy core in the center, cutting off the smallest possible end of each of the sections. With this done,
remove the seeds, which will be found firmly lodged near the core and which can be readily pushed out with the point of
the knife. Then cut down each side of the skin between the sections so as to separate the pulp from the skin. Around the
edge next to the outside skin, cut the pulp in each section with a single jab of the knife, taking care not to cut the skin
between the sections. The entire pulp of each section, which will be found to be loose on both sides and ends if the
cutting is correctly done, can then be readily removed with a spoon.
[Illustration: FIG. 7]
82. In another method of preparing this fruit for the table, all the skin inside of the fruit is removed and nothing but the
pulp is left. This method, which is illustrated in Figs. 5 to 10, inclusive, requires a little more time and care than the
previous one, but the result justifies the effort. After cutting the grapefruit into halves, remove the seeds with a sharp
knife, as shown in Fig. 5. Then, with the same knife, cut the grapefruit from the skin all the way around the edge, as in
Fig. 6; also, cut down each side of the skin between the sections, so as to separate the pulp from the skin, as in Fig. 7.
With the pulp loosened, insert a pair of scissors along the outside edge, as in Fig. 8, and make a slanting cut toward the
core.
[Illustration: FIG. 8]
Then, as in Fig. 9, cut the core loose from the outside skin. Repeat this operation for each section. If the cutting has
been properly done, the core and skin enclosing the sections may be lifted out of the grapefruit, and, as shown in Fig.
10, will then be in the form of a many-pointed star. As only the pulp remains in the outside skin, the grapefruit can be
eaten without difficulty.
[Illustration: FIG. 9]
83. SERVING GRAPEFRUIT.--When grapefruit has been properly ripened, it is rather sweet, so that many persons
prefer it without sugar; but when sugar is desired, the fruit is very much more delicious if it is prepared some time before
it is to be served, the sugar added to it, and the fruit placed in a cool place. If this is done in the evening and the
grapefruit is served for breakfast, a large amount of very delicious juice will have collected through the night. At any rate,
grapefruit is best if it is sweetened long enough before it is served to give the sugar a chance to penetrate.
[Illustration: FIG. 10]
LEMONS
84. LEMONS are a citrus fruit raised in tropical regions. They are shipped to other climates in cases that hold from 180
to 540, depending on the size of the lemons, 300 to the case being a medium and commonly used size. Their quality is
judged like that of grapefruit; that is, by their weight, the texture of their skin, and their general color and shape.
Lemons contain very little sugar, but they are characterized by a large amount of acid. Because of this fact, their juice is
used to season foods in much the same way as vinegar is used. In fact, their chief uses are in making desserts and in
seasoning such foods as custards, pudding sauces, etc. However, their juice is also much used in the making of
beverages, such as lemonade and fruit punch.
ORANGES
85. ORANGES belong to the group of citrus fruits, but they differ from both lemons and grapefruit in that they contain
more sugar and less acid. Two kinds of oranges supply the demands for this fruit, Florida and California oranges. Florida
oranges have a skin more the color of lemons and grapefruit and contain seeds, but they are considered to be the finest
both as to flavor and quality. California oranges, which have a bright-yellow or orange skin, are seedless and are known
as navel oranges. As soon as the Florida season ends, the California season begins; consequently, the market season
for this fruit is a lengthy one. The russet of oranges is caused by the bite of an insect on the skin. To be shipped,
oranges are packed in cases that will contain from 48 to 400 to the case.
Probably no citrus fruit is used so extensively as oranges. Because of their refreshing subacid flavor, they are much
eaten in their fresh state, both alone and in combination with other foods in numerous salads and desserts.
[Illustration: FIG. 11]
86. PREPARATION OF ORANGES.--Several attractive ways of preparing oranges for the table when they are to be
eaten raw are shown in Fig. 11.
To prepare them in the way shown at the left, cut the orange into two parts, cutting half way between the stem and
blossom ends, and loosen the pulp in each half in the manner explained in Art. 81 for the preparation of grapefruit. Then
the pulp may be eaten from the orange with a spoon.
[Illustration: FIG. 12]
If an orange is to be eaten in sections, the skin may be cut from the stem to the blossom end about six times and then
loosened from the one end and turned in toward the orange in the manner shown in the central figure of the group. It will
then be easy to remove the skin.
[Illustration: FIG. 13]
Sometimes it is desired to serve sliced oranges, as shown at the right. To prepare oranges in this way, remove the skin
from the orange, cut it in halves lengthwise, and then slice it in thin slices crosswise. Arrange the slices on a plate and
serve as desired.
87. When oranges are to be used for salads, or for any purpose in which merely the pulp is desired, as, for instance,
orange custard, all the skin between the sections must be removed, as it makes any warm mixture bitter. To secure the
pulp without any of the skin, first peel the orange, as shown in Fig. 12, in the same way an apple is peeled, beginning at
one end and peeling around and around deeply enough to remove with the skin all the white pithy material under it. If the
knife is a sharp one and the peeling is carefully done, there will be little waste of the pulp. When the orange is entirely
peeled, cut each section from the skin by passing the knife as closely as possible between the pulp and the skin, as
shown in Fig. 13. The sections thus obtained may be used whole or cut into pieces of any desired size.
TROPICAL FRUITS
VARIETIES
92. Besides the citrus fruits, which may also be regarded as tropical fruits because they grow in tropical regions, there
are a number of other fruits that may be conveniently grouped under the heading Tropical Fruits. The best known of
these are bananas and pineapples, but numerous others, such as avocados, guavas, nectarines, pomegranates,
tamarinds, and mangoes, are also raised in the tropical countries and should be included in this class. The majority of
these fruits stand shipment well, but if they are to be shipped to far distant places they must be picked before they
become too ripe and must be packed well. As bananas and pineapples are used more extensively than the other tropical
fruits, they are discussed here in greater detail; however, enough information is given about the others to enable the
housewife to become familiar with them.
BANANAS
93. BANANAS are a tropical fruit that have become very popular with the people in the North. As they are usually picked
and shipped green and then ripened by a process of heating when they are ready to be put on the market, it is possible
to obtain them in a very good condition. It should be remembered, however, that they are not ripe enough to eat until all
the green color has left the skin. The stem of the bunch may be green, but the bananas themselves should be perfectly
yellow. Black spots, which are sometimes found on the skins, indicate overripeness or bruises. When the spots come
from overripeness, however, they do not injure the quality of the fruit, unless there are a great many of them; in fact,
many persons consider that bananas are better when the skins are black than at any other time.
94. Just under the skin of the banana is some pithy material that clings to the outside of the fruit and that has a pungent,
disagreeable taste. This objectionable taste may be done away with by scraping the surface of the banana slightly, as
shown in Fig. 14, after the skin is removed.
The strong, typical flavor that characterizes bananas is due to the volatile oil they contain. It is this oil that causes
bananas to disagree with some persons. The common yellow variety has a milder flavor than red bananas and certain
other kinds and, consequently, is more popular. If the oil of bananas does not prove irritating, much use should be made
of this fruit, because its food value is high, being about double that of apples and oranges.
[Illustration: FIG. 14]
95. Bananas are eaten raw more often than in any other way, but many persons find cooked bananas very agreeable.
Then, too, it is sometimes claimed that cooked bananas are more digestible than raw ones because of the starch that
bananas contain. However, this argument may be discounted, for a well-ripened banana contains such a small quantity
of starch that no consideration need be given to it.
[Illustration: FIG. 15]
96. BAKED BANANAS.--If bananas are to be cooked, they can be made very appetizing by baking them with a sirup
made of vinegar, sugar, and butter. When prepared in this way, they should be cut in two lengthwise, and then baked in
a shallow pan, as Fig. 15 shows.
BAKED BANANAS
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
6 bananas
2 Tb. butter
1/3 c. sugar
3 Tb. vinegar
Remove the skins from the bananas, scrape the surface as in Fig. 14, and cut them in half lengthwise. Arrange the
halves in a shallow pan. Melt the butter and mix it with the sugar and the vinegar. Pour a spoonful of the mixture over
each banana and then set the pan in the oven. Bake in a slow oven for about 20 minutes, basting frequently with the
remainder of the sirup during the baking. Remove from the oven and serve hot.
97. Banana Fritters.--Delicious fritters can be made with bananas as a foundation. The accompanying recipe, if
carefully followed, will result in a dish that will be appetizing, especially to those who are fond of this fruit.
BANANA FRITTERS
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
4 bananas
1 Tb. lemon juice
1/2 c. flour
2 Tb. sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
1/3 c. milk
1 egg
1 Tb. butter, melted
Powdered sugar
Remove the skins from the bananas, scrape them, and cut them once lengthwise and once crosswise. Sprinkle the
pieces with the lemon juice. Make a batter by mixing and sifting the flour, sugar, and salt. Stir in the milk gradually, and
add the yolk of the beaten egg and the melted butter. Lastly, fold in the beaten egg white. Sprinkle the bananas with
powdered sugar, dip them into the batter, and fry in deep fat until brown. Sprinkle again with powdered sugar and serve.
PINEAPPLES
98. Pineapples are grown in the southern part of the United States, on the islands off the southeastern coast, and in
Hawaii. They vary in size according to the age of the plants. It requires from 18 to 20 months for the fruit to develop, and
the plants yield only four or five crops. Much of this fruit is canned where it is grown, but as it is covered with a heavy
skin it will tolerate shipping long distances very well. It is shipped to the market in cases that contain from 24 to 48
pineapples to the case. Usually, for a few weeks during the summer, the price of fresh pineapples is reasonable enough
to warrant canning them.
[Illustration: FIG. 16]
99. The food value of pineapples is slightly lower than that of oranges and apples. However, pineapples have a great
deal of flavor, and for this reason they are very valuable in the making of desserts, preserves, marmalades, and
beverages of various kinds. It is said that the combination of pineapple and lemon will flavor a greater amount of food
than any other fruit combined. Another characteristic of pineapples is that they contain a ferment that acts upon protein
material and therefore is sometimes thought to aid considerably in the digestion of food. The probabilities are that this
ferment really produces very little action in the stomach, but its effect upon protein material can readily be observed by
attempting to use raw pineapple in the making of a gelatine dessert. If the pineapple is put in raw, the gelatine will not
solidify; but if the pineapple is heated sufficiently to kill this ferment, it has no effect whatsoever upon the gelatine.
[Illustration: FIG. 17]
100. SELECTING PINEAPPLES.--When pineapples are to be selected, care should be exercised to see that they are
ripe. The most certain way of determining this fact is to pull out the center leaves of each pineapple that is chosen. As
shown in Fig. 16, grasp the pineapple with one hand and then with the other pull out, one at a time, several of the center
leaves of the tuft at the top. If the fruit is ripe a sharp jerk will usually remove each leaf readily, but the harder the leaves
pull, the greener the pineapple is.
[Illustration: FIG. 18]
An overripe pineapple is just as unsatisfactory as one that is not ripe enough. When a pineapple becomes too ripe, rotten
spots begin to develop around the base. Such spots can be easily detected by the discoloration of the skin and such a
pineapple should not be selected.
[Illustration: FIG. 19]
101. PREPARATION OF PINEAPPLE.--Some persons consider pineapple a difficult fruit to prepare, but no trouble will
be experienced if the method illustrated in Figs. 17 to 19 is followed. Place the pineapple on a hard surface, such as a
wooden cutting board, and with a large sharp knife cut off the tuft of leaves at the top. Then, as shown in Fig. 17, cut the
pineapple into 1/2-inch slices crosswise of the head. When the entire pineapple has been sliced, peel each slice with a
sharp paring knife, as in Fig. 18. With the peeling removed, it will be observed that each slice contains a number of eyes.
Remove these with the point of a knife, as Fig. 19 shows. After cutting out the core from the center of each slice, the
slices may be allowed to remain whole or may be cut into pieces of any desirable size or shape. Pineapple prepared in
this way is ready either for canning or for desserts in which it is used fresh.
102. PINEAPPLE PUDDING.--One of the most satisfactory desserts made from pineapple is the pudding given here. It is
in reality a corn-starch pudding in which grated pineapple is used for the flavoring.
PINEAPPLE PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2-1/2 c. scalded milk
1/3 c. corn starch
1/2 c. sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 c. cold milk
1-1/2 c. grated pineapple, canned or fresh
2 egg whites
Scald the milk by heating it over the fire in a double boiler. Mix the corn starch, sugar, and salt, and dissolve in the cold
milk. Add to the scalded milk in the double boiler and cook for about 15 or 20 minutes. Remove from the fire and add the
grated pineapple from which all juice has been drained. Then fold in the whites of the eggs beaten stiff. Pour into molds
previously dipped in cold water, allow to cool, and serve with cream.
MELONS
109. CANTALOUPES AND MUSKMELONS.--The variety of melons known as muskmelons consists of a juicy, edible
fruit that is characterized by a globular shape and a ribbed surface. Cantaloupes are a variety of muskmelons, but the
distinction between them is sometimes difficult to understand. For the most part, these names are used interchangeably
with reference to melons.
Considerable variation occurs in this fruit. Some cantaloupes and muskmelons are large and others are small; some
have pink or yellow flesh and others have white or light-green flesh. All the variations of color and size are found
between these two extremes. The flesh of these fruits contains considerable water; therefore, their food value is not high,
being only a little over half as much as that of apples.
110. If melons suitable for the table are desired, they should be selected with care. To be just at the right stage, the
blossom end of the melon should be a trifle soft when pressed with the fingers. If it is very soft, the melon is perhaps too
ripe; but if it does not give with pressure, the melon is too green.
111. Various ways of serving muskmelons and cantaloupes are in practice. When they are to be served plain as a
breakfast food or a luncheon dessert, cut them crosswise into halves, or, if they are large, divide them into sections
lengthwise. With the melons cut in the desired way, remove all the seeds and keep the melons on ice until they are to be
served. The pulp of the melon may also be cut from the rind and then diced and used in the making of fruit salads. Again,
the pulp may be partly scraped out of the melon and the rinds then filled with fruit mixtures and served with a salad
dressing for a salad or with fruit juices for a cocktail. The pulp that is scraped out may be diced and used in the fruit
mixture, and what is left in the rind may be eaten after the contents have been eaten.
112. CASABA MELONS.--The variety of melons known as casaba, or honeydew, melons are a cross between a
cucumber and a cantaloupe. They have white flesh and a rind that is smoother than the rind of cantaloupes. Melons of
this kind are raised in the western part of the United States, but as they stand shipment very well, they can usually be
obtained in the market in other regions. They are much enjoyed by those who are fond of this class of fruit. Their
particular advantage is that they come later in the season than cantaloupes and muskmelons, and thus can be obtained
for the table long after these other fruits are out of season. Casaba melons may be served in the same ways as
cantaloupes.
113. WATERMELONS.--A very well-known type of melon is the watermelon. It is grown principally in warm climates of
the Southern States, as the season in the North is not sufficiently long to allow it to develop. This is a large fruit, having a
smooth green skin that is often mottled or striped, and a pinkish pulp containing many seeds and having a sweet, watery
juice. The large amount of water contained in this fruit makes its food value very low, it being lower in this respect than
muskmelons and cantaloupes. The volatile oil it contains, which is responsible for its flavor, proves irritating to some
persons who eat it.
114. Watermelon is delicious when it is served ice cold. Therefore, before it is served, it should be kept on ice for a
sufficient time to allow it to become thoroughly cold. Then it may be cut in any desirable way. If it is cut in slices, the
slices should be trimmed so that only the pink pulp that is edible is served, the green rind being discarded. As an
appetizer, watermelon is delicious when cut into pieces and served in a cocktail glass with fresh mint chopped fine and
sprinkled over the top. Small pieces of watermelon cut with a French vegetable cutter make a very attractive garnish for
fruit salads and other fruit mixtures.
FRUIT COCKTAILS
115. Cocktails made of a combination of fruits are often served as the first course of a meal, usually a luncheon or a
dinner, to precede the soup course. In warm weather, they are an excellent substitute for heavy cocktails made of lobster
or crab, and they may even be used to replace the soup course. The fruits used for this purpose should be the more acid
ones, for the acids and flavors are intended to serve as an appetizer, or the same purpose for which the hot and highly
seasoned soups are taken. Therefore, they are seldom made sweet and are not taken for their food value. Besides being
refreshing appetizers, they afford a hostess an opportunity to carry out a certain color scheme in a meal. Many kinds of
fruit may be combined into cocktails, but directions for the cocktails that are usually made are here given. Fruit cocktails
should always be served ice cold.
116. GRAPEFRUIT COCKTAIL.--The cocktail here explained may be served in stemmed glasses or in the shells of the
grapefruit. If the fruit shells are to be used, the grapefruit should be cut into two parts, half way between the blossom and
the stem ends, the fruit removed, and the edges of the shell then notched. This plan of serving a cocktail should be
adopted only when small grapefruits are used, for if the shells are large more fruit will have to be used than is agreeable
for a cocktail.
GRAPEFRUIT COCKTAIL
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 grapefruits
2 oranges
1 c. diced pineapple, fresh or canned
Powdered sugar
Remove the pulp from the grapefruits and oranges in the manner previously explained. However, if the grapefruit shells
are to be used for serving the cocktail, the grapefruit should be cut in half and the pulp then taken out of the skin with a
sharp knife. With the sections of pulp removed, cut each one into several pieces. Add the diced pineapple to the other
fruits, mix together well and set on ice until thoroughly chilled. Put in cocktail glasses or grapefruit shells, pour a spoonful
or two of orange juice over each serving, sprinkle with powdered sugar, garnish with a cherry, and serve ice cold.
117. SUMMER COCKTAIL.--As strawberries and pineapples can be obtained fresh at the same time during the summer,
they are often used together in a cocktail. When sweetened slightly with powdered sugar and allowed to become ice
cold, these fruits make a delicious combination.
SUMMER COCKTAIL
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 c. diced fresh pineapple
2 c. sliced strawberries
Powdered sugar
Prepare a fresh pineapple in the manner previously explained, and cut each slice into small pieces or dice. Wash and
hull the strawberries and slice them into small slices. Mix the two fruits and sprinkle them with powdered sugar. Place in
cocktail glasses and allow to stand on ice a short time before serving.
118. FRUIT COCKTAIL.--A fruit cocktail proper is made by combining a number of different kinds of fruit, such as
bananas, pineapple, oranges, and maraschino cherries. As shown in Fig. 20, such a cocktail is served in a stemmed
glass set on a small plate. Nothing more delicious than this can be prepared for the first course of a dinner or a luncheon
that is to be served daintily. Its advantage is that it can be made at almost any season of the year with these particular
fruits.
[Illustration: FIG. 20]
FRUIT COCKTAIL
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 bananas
1 c. canned pineapple
2 oranges
1 doz. maraschino cherries
Lemon juice
Powdered sugar
Peel the bananas and dice them. Dice the pineapple. Remove the pulp from the oranges in the manner previously
explained, and cut each section into several pieces. Mix these three fruits. Cut the cherries in half and add to the mixture.
Set on ice until thoroughly chilled. To serve, put into cocktail glasses as shown in the illustration, and add to each glass
1 tablespoonful of maraschino juice from the cherries and 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice. Sprinkle with powdered sugar
and serve.
DRIED FRUITS
VARIETIES OF DRIED FRUITS
119. The fruits that have been discussed up to this point are fresh fruits; that is, they are placed on the markets, and
consequently can be obtained, in their fresh state. However, there are a number of fruits that are dried before they are
put on the market, and as they can be obtained during all seasons they may be used when fresh fruits are out of season
or as a substitute for canned fruits when the household supply is low. The chief varieties of dried fruits are dates, figs,
prunes, which are dried plums, and raisins, which are dried grapes. Apples, apricots, and peaches are also dried in large
quantities and are much used in place of these fruits when they cannot be obtained in their fresh form. Discussions of the
different varieties of dried fruits are here given, together with recipes showing how some of them may be used.
DATES
120. DATES, which are the fruit of the date palm, are not only very nutritious but well liked by most persons. They are
oblong in shape and have a single hard seed that is grooved on one side. As dates contain very little water and a great
deal of sugar, their food value is high, being more than five times that of apples and oranges. They are also valuable in
the diet because of their slightly laxative effect. When added to other food, such as cakes, hot breads, etc., they provide
a great deal of nutriment.
121. The finest dates on the market come from Turkey and the Eastern countries. They are prepared for sale at the
places where they grow, being put up in packages that weigh from 1/2 to 1 pound, as well as in large boxes from which
they can be sold in bulk. It is very important that all dates, whether bought in packages or in bulk, be thoroughly washed
before they are eaten. While those contained in packages do not collect dirt after they are packed, they are
contaminated to a certain extent by the hands of the persons who pack them. To be most satisfactory, dates should first
be washed in hot water and then have cold water run over them. If they are to be stuffed, they should be thoroughly dried
between towels or placed in a single layer on pans to allow the water to evaporate. While the washing of dates
undoubtedly causes the loss of a small amount of food material, it is, nevertheless, a wise procedure.
122. Dates can be put to many valuable uses in the diet. They are much used in cakes, muffins, and hot breads and in
fillings for cakes and cookies. Several kinds of delicious pastry, as well as salads and sandwiches, are also made with
dates. Their use as a confection is probably the most important one, as they are very appetizing when stuffed with nuts,
candy, and such foods.
FIGS
123. FIGS are a small pear-shaped fruit grown extensively in Eastern countries and to some extent in the western part of
the United States. The varieties grown in this country are not especially valuable when they are dried, but they can be
canned fresh in the localities where they are grown. Fresh figs cannot be shipped, as they are too perishable, but when
dried they can be kept an indefinite length of time and they are highly nutritious, too. In fact, dried figs are nearly as high
in food value as dates, and they are even more laxative.
124. Dried figs are found on the market both as pressed and pulled figs. Pressed figs are those which are pressed tightly
together when they are packed and are so crushed down in at least one place that they are more or less sugary from the
juice of the fig. Pulled figs are those which are dried without being pressed and are suitable for such purposes as
stewing and steaming.
125. STEWED FIGS.--If pulled figs can be secured, they may be stewed to be served as a sauce. When prepared in this
way, they will be found to make a highly nutritious and delightful breakfast fruit or winter dessert.
STEWED FIGS
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 c. pulled figs
3 c. water
Wash the figs and remove the stems. Put them into a preserving kettle with the water and allow them to come slowly to
the boiling point. Simmer gently over the fire until the figs become soft. If they are desired very sweet, sugar may be
added before they are removed from the heat and the juice then cooked until it is as thick as is desirable. Serve cold.
126. STEAMED FIGS.--When figs are steamed until they are soft and then served with plain or whipped cream, they
make a delightful dessert. To prepare them in this way, wash the desired number and remove the stems. Place them in a
steamer over boiling water and steam them until they are soft. Remove from the stove, allow them to cool, and serve with
cream.
PRUNES
127. PRUNES are the dried fruit of any one of several varieties of plum trees and are raised mostly in Southern Europe
and California. In their fresh state, they are purple in color, but they become darker during their drying. They are priced
and purchased according to size, being graded with a certain number to the pound, just as lemons and oranges are
graded with a certain number to the case. In food value they are about equal to dates and figs. They contain very little
acid, but are characterized by a large quantity of easily digested sugar. They also have a laxative quality that makes
them valuable in the diet.
128. STEWED PRUNES.--A simple way in which to prepare prunes is to stew them and then add sugar to sweeten them.
Stewed prunes may be served as a sauce with cake of some kind or they may be used as a breakfast fruit.
STEWED PRUNES
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 lb. prunes
1 c. sugar
Look the prunes over carefully, wash them thoroughly in hot water, and soak them in warm water for about 6 hours.
Place them on the stove in the same water in which they were soaked and which should well cover them. Cook slowly
until they can be easily pierced with a fork or until the seeds separate from the pulp upon being crushed. Add the sugar,
continue to cook until it is completely dissolved, and then remove from the stove and cool. If desired, more sweetening
may be used or a few slices of lemon or a small amount of lemon peel may be added to give an agreeable flavor.
129. STUFFED PRUNES.--After prunes have been stewed, they may have the seeds removed and then be filled with
peanut butter. Stuffed in this way and served with whipped cream, as shown in Fig. 21, or merely the prune juice, they
make an excellent dessert.
[Illustration: FIG. 21, Stewed prunes stuffed with peanut butter.]
Select prunes of good size and stew them according to the directions just given, but remove them from the fire before
they have become very soft. Cool and then cut a slit in each one and remove the seed. Fill the cavity with peanut butter
and press together again. Serve with some of the prune juice or with whipped cream.
130. PRUNE WHIP.--A very dainty prune dessert can be made from stewed prunes by reducing the prunes to a pulp and
then adding the whites of eggs. Directions for this dessert follow:
PRUNE WHIP
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 c. prune pulp
1/4 c. powdered sugar
2 egg whites
Whipped cream
Make the prune pulp by removing the seeds from stewed prunes and forcing the prunes through a sieve or a ricer. Mix
the powdered sugar with the pulp. Beat the whites of the eggs until they are stiff and then carefully fold them into the
prune pulp. Chill and serve with whipped cream.
RAISINS
131. RAISINS are the dried fruit of various kinds of grapes that contain considerable sugar and are cured in the sun or in
an oven. They come principally from the Mediterranean region and from California. They have an extensive use in
cookery, both as a confection and an ingredient in cakes, puddings, and pastry. In food value, raisins are very high and
contain sugar in the form of glucose; however, their skins are coarse cellulose and for this reason are likely to be
injurious to children if taken in too large quantities. They are also valuable as a laxative and in adding variety to the diet if
they are well cooked before they are served.
Like other dried fruits, raisins should be washed thoroughly before they are used. They may then be soaked in warm
water and stewed in exactly the same way as prunes. Sugar may or may not be added, as desired. Sultana raisins,
which are the seedless variety, are especially desirable for stewing, although they may be used for any of the other
purposes for which raisins are used.
(1) To what are the flavors and odors of fruits chiefly due?
(2) What food substances are found in only very small amounts in fruits?
(3) Mention the kinds of carbohydrate to which the food value of fruits is chiefly due.
(4) What parts of fruits make up the cellulose they contain?
(5) Discuss the value of minerals in fruits.
(6) Of what value in cookery are fruits containing large quantities of acid?
(7) What qualities of fruits are affected as they ripen?
(8) Discuss the digestibility of fruits.
(9) What are the effects of cooking on fruit?
(10) What sanitary precautions concerning fruits should be observed?
(11) (a) How do weather conditions affect the quality of berries? (b) What is the most important use of berries in
cookery?
(12) Name some varieties of apples that can be purchased in your locality that are best for: (a) cookery; (b) eating.
(13) How can peach juice be utilized to advantage?
(14) Mention the citrus fruits.
(15) Describe a method of preparing grapefruit for the table.
(16) Describe the preparation of oranges for salads and desserts.
(17) Describe the appearance of bananas in the best condition for serving.
(18) (a) Give a test for the ripeness of pineapples. (b) Describe the most convenient method of preparing pineapples.
(19) Discuss the use of fruit cocktails.
(20) Describe the general preparation of dried fruits that are to be stewed.
CANNING
PRINCIPLES OF CANNING
8. CANNING consists in sealing foods in receptacles, such as cans or jars, in such a way that they will remain sterile for
an indefinite period of time. Several methods of canning are in use, and the one to adopt will depend considerably on
personal preference and the money that can be expended for the equipment. In any case, successful results in canning
depend on the care that is given to every detail that enters into the work. This means, then, that from the selection of the
food to be canned to the final operation in canning not one thing that has to do with good results should be overlooked.
9. SELECTION OF FOOD FOR CANNING.--A careful selection of the food that is to be canned is of great importance. If
it is in good condition at the time of canning, it is much more likely to remain good when canned than food that is not. The
flavor of the finished product also depends a great deal on the condition of the food. Fruits have the best flavor when
they are ripe, but they are in the best condition for canning just before they have completely ripened. Immediately
following perfect ripeness comes the spoiling stage, and if fruits, as well as vegetables, are canned before they are
completely ripe, they are, of course, farther from the conditions that tend to spoil them. This, however, does not mean
that green fruits or vegetables should be canned.
Whenever possible, any food that is to be canned should be perfectly fresh. The sooner it is canned after it has been
gathered, the more satisfactory will be the results. For instance, it is better to can it 12 hours after gathering than 24
hours, but to can it 2 hours after is much better. Fruits, such as berries, that are especially perishable should not be
allowed to stand overnight if this can be prevented; and it is absolutely necessary to can some vegetables, such as peas,
beans, and corn, within a very few hours after gathering. Unless this is done, they will develop a bad flavor because of
flat sour, a condition that results from the action of certain bacteria. Imperfect fruits should not be canned, but should be
used for making jam, marmalade, or jelly.
10. WHY CANNED FOODS SPOIL.--Canned foods spoil because of the action of micro-organisms that cause
fermentation, putrefaction, and molding. The reasons for the spoiling of food are thoroughly discussed in Essentials of
Cookery, Part 2, and in that discussion canning is mentioned as one of the means of preserving food or preventing it
from spoiling. However, when canning does not prove effective, it is because undesirable bacteria are present in the
food. Either they have not been destroyed by the canning process or they have been allowed to enter before the jar was
closed, and have then developed to such an extent as to cause the food to spoil. Odors, flavors, and gases result from
the putrefaction, fermentation, or molding caused by these bacteria, and these make the foods offensive or harmful, or
perhaps both.
11. PREVENTING CANNED FOODS FROM SPOILING.--From what has just been said, it will be seen that the success
of canning depends entirely on destroying harmful micro-organisms that are present in the food and preventing those
present in the air from entering the jars in which the food is placed.
Some foods are more difficult to keep than others, because bacteria act on them more readily and the foods themselves
contain nothing that prevents their growth. Among such foods are meat, fish, peas, corn, beans, and meat soups. On the
other hand, some foods contain acids that prevent the growth of bacteria, and these keep easily. Among these are
rhubarb, cranberries, and green gooseberries. However, foods that keep easily are few, and in most cases extreme care
in the process of canning must be exercised.
12. While warmth is necessary for bacterial growth, very high temperatures will destroy or retard it. In canning, a
temperature as high as 212 degrees Fahrenheit, or boiling point, retards the growth of active bacteria, but retarding their
growth is not sufficient. They must be rendered inactive. To do this requires either a higher temperature than boiling
point or long continued cooking at 212 degrees. Spores are a protective form that many kinds of bacteria assume under
unfavorable conditions. They are very difficult to kill, and unless they are completely destroyed in the canning process,
they will develop into active bacteria when conditions again become favorable. The result of the spore development is
the spoiling of the food.
13. Other things besides the application of heat assist in the keeping of canned food, as, for example, the acids of the
fruits and vegetables themselves, as has been mentioned. The use of sugar also assists; the greater the quantity of
sugar in solution the easier it will be to keep the food. This is proved in the case of jams and jellies, which will keep
without being sealed tight or put into jars immediately after cooking. Salt helps to keep vegetables that are canned, and,
in making butters, conserves, and pickles, the spices and vinegars used help to protect the foods from bacterial action.
However, none of these things are essential to the keeping of any sterile food, by which is meant food in which all
bacteria or sources of bacteria have been rendered inactive by the application of sufficient heat.
14. CANNING PRESERVATIVES.--Numerous compounds, usually in the form of powders, are advertised as being
useful for keeping canned foods from spoiling. None of them should be used, however, because they are unnecessary. If
the work of canning is carefully and effectively done, good foods will keep perfectly without the addition of a preservative.
The pure-food laws of the United States and of many of the states themselves forbid the use of some preservatives
because of their harmful effect on the human system. For this reason, to say nothing of the extra expense that would be
incurred in their use, such preservatives may well be left alone.
CANNING METHODS
GENERAL DISCUSSION
26. The methods employed for the canning of foods include the open-kettle method, the cold-pack method, the steam-
pressure method, and the oven method. Of these, the open-kettle method is perhaps the oldest household method of
canning, and it is still used by many housewives. The other methods, which are newer, seem troublesome to the
housewife who is familiar with the open-kettle method, yet it will only be fair to give the new methods a trial before
deciding which to use. The one-period cold-pack method has much to recommend it. Foods canned in this way undergo
less change in form and flavor than those canned by the open-kettle method; besides, there is less danger of spoiling. In
fact, many foods, such as vegetables and meats, that cannot be canned satisfactorily by the open-kettle method will
keep perfectly if they are carefully preserved by the one-period cold-pack method. The steam-pressure method requires
the use of special equipment, as is explained later. While it is a very acceptable canning method, it is not accessible in
many homes. The oven method is liked by many housewives, but it offers almost the same chance for contamination as
does the open-kettle method.
OPEN-KETTLE METHOD
27. The OPEN-KETTLE METHOD of canning is very simple and requires no equipment other than that to be found in
every kitchen. It consists in thoroughly cooking the food that is to be canned, transferring it to containers, and sealing
them immediately.
28. UTENSILS REQUIRED.--Not many utensils are required for the open-kettle canning method. For cooking the food, a
large enamel or metal vessel other than tin or iron should be provided. It should be broad and shallow, rather than deep,
especially for fruit, as this food retains its shape better if it is cooked in a layer that is not deep. The other utensils for
canning fruits and vegetables by this method are practically the same as those already discussed--measuring utensils, a
knife, large spoons, pans for sterilizing jars or cans, covers, rubbers, and jars or cans into which to put the food.
29. PROCEDURE.--The first step in the open-kettle canning method consists in sterilizing the containers. To do this, first
clean the jars, covers, and rubbers by washing them and then boiling them in clear water for 15 to 20 minutes.
Next, attention should be given to the food that is to be canned. Look it over carefully, cut out any decayed portions, and
wash it thoroughly. Sometimes roots, leaves, stems, or seeds are removed before washing, and sometimes this is not
done until after washing. At any rate, all dirt or foreign material must be washed from foods before they are ready for
canning.
After preparing the food, it must be cooked. If fruit is being canned, put it into the required sirup, the making of which is
explained later, and cook it until it is well softened, as if preparing it for immediate table use. If vegetables are being
canned, cook them in the same way, but use salt and water instead of sirup. When the food is cooked, transfer it to the
sterile jars and seal at once with the sterile rubbers and covers. Then invert each jar to permit the food to cool and to test
for leaks.
30. The danger of not securing good results with the open-kettle method lies in the possibility of contaminating the
contents before the jar is closed and sealed. In addition to having the jars, rubbers, and covers sterile, therefore, all
spoons and other utensils used to handle the cooked food must be sterile. Likewise, the jars must be filled to the top and
the covers put on and made as firm and tight as possible at once, so that as few bacteria as possible will enter. If screw-
top cans are used, the tops should not be twisted or turned after cooling, as this may affect the sealing. If jars leak upon
being turned upside down, the contents must be removed and reheated and the jar must be fitted with another cover.
Then both jar and cover must be sterilized and the contents returned and sealed immediately.
COLD-PACK METHOD
31. The COLD-PACK METHOD of canning differs from the open-kettle method in that the food to be canned is not
cooked in a kettle before placing it in the jars and sealing them. In this method, the food to be canned is prepared by
washing, peeling, scraping, hulling, stemming, seeding, or cutting, depending on the kind. Then it is scalded or blanched
and plunged into cold water quickly and taken out immediately, the latter operation being called cold-dipping. After this it
is placed into hot jars, covered with boiling liquid--boiling water and salt for vegetables, meats, fish, or soups, and boiling
sirup for fruits. Then the filled jars are covered loosely and placed in a water bath and processed; that is, cooked and
sterilized. When food that is being canned is subjected to processing only once, the method is referred to as the one-
period cold-pack method; but when the food in the jars has not been blanched and cold-dipped and is processed,
allowed to stand 24 hours and then processed again, and this operation repeated, it is called the fractional-sterilization
method. The equipment required for the cold-pack canning method and the procedure in performing the work are taken
up in detail, so that every point concerning the work may be thoroughly understood.
[Illustration: FIG. 6]
32. UTENSILS REQUIRED.--The utensils required for canning by the cold-pack method are shown assembled in Fig. 6.
Chief among them is a sterilizer, or boiler, which consists of a large fiat-bottomed vessel fitted with a rack and a tight-
fitting cover. A number of such devices are manufactured for canning by the cold-pack method, but it is possible to
improvise one in the home. A wash boiler, a large pail, a large lard can, or, in fact, any large vessel with a flat bottom into
which is fitted a rack of some kind to keep the jars 3/4 inch above the bottom can be used. Several layers of wire netting
cut to correct size and fastened at each end to a 3/4-inch strip of wood will do very well for a rack. In any event, the
vessel must be deep enough to allow the water to cover the jars completely and must have a tight-fitting cover. Besides a
sterilizer, there are needed three large vessels, one for scalding the food that is to be canned, one for cold-dipping, and
one for keeping the jars hot. To hold the food that is to be dipped, a sieve, a wire basket, also shown in Fig. 6, or a large
square of cheesecloth must also be provided, and for placing jars in the water bath, a can lifter, a type of which is shown
on the table in Fig. 6, may be needed. The remainder of the equipment is practically the same as that described under
the heading General Equipment for Canning.
PROCEDURE IN THE ONE-PERIOD COLD-PACK METHOD
33. PREPARING THE CONTAINERS.--The first step in the cold-pack method consists in preparing the containers for
the food. The jars, rubbers, and covers, however, do not have to be sterilized as in the open-kettle method. But it is
necessary first to test and cleanse the jars and then to keep them hot, so that later, when they are filled and ready to be
placed in the water bath, they will not crack by coming in contact with boiling water. The best way in which to keep the
jars hot is to let them stand in hot water.
[Illustration: FIG. 7]
34. PREPARATION OF THE FOOD.--Attention should next be directed to the preparation of the food to be canned; that
is, clean it and have it ready for the processes that follow. The fruits or vegetables may be canned whole or in pieces of
any desirable size. What to do with them is explained later, when the directions for canning the different kinds are
discussed. While the food is undergoing preparation, fill the sterilizer with hot water and allow it to come to the boiling
point.
35. SCALDING AND BLANCHING.--When the food is made ready, the next step is to scald or blanch it. Scalding is
done to loosen the skin of such food as peaches, plums, and tomatoes, so that they may be peeled easily. To scald such
fruits or vegetables, dip them quickly into boiling water and allow them to remain there just long enough to loosen the
skin. If they are ripe, the scalding must be done quickly; otherwise they will become soft. They should never be allowed
to remain in the water after the skin begins to loosen. For scalding fruits and vegetables a wire basket or a square of
cheesecloth may be used in the manner shown in Figs. 7 and 8.
Blanching is done to reduce the bulk of such foods as spinach and other greens, to render them partly sterilized, and to
improve their flavor. It consists in dipping the food into boiling water or suspending it over live steam and allowing it to
remain there for a longer period of time than is necessary for scalding. To blanch food, place it in a wire basket, a sieve,
or a piece of clean cheesecloth and lower it into boiling water or suspend it above the water in a closely covered vessel.
Allow it to remain there long enough to accomplish the purpose intended.
[Illustration: FIG. 8]
36. COLD DIPPING.--After the food to be canned is scalded or blanched, it is ready for cold-dipping. Cold-dipping is
done partly to improve the color of the food. It stops the softening process at once, makes the food more firm and thus
easier to handle, and helps to loosen the skin of foods that have been scalded. It also assists in destroying bacteria by
suddenly shocking the spores after the application of heat. Cold-dipping, in conjunction with blanching or scalding,
replaces the long process of fractional sterilization, and is what makes the one-period cold-pack method superior to this
other process. To cold-dip food, simply plunge that which has just been scalded or blanched into cold water, as in Fig. 9,
and then take it out at once.
37. PACKING THE JARS.--Packing the jars immediately follows cold-dipping, and it is work that should be done as
rapidly as possible. Remove the jars from the hot water as they are needed and fill each with the cold-dipped fruit or
vegetable. Pack the jars in an orderly manner and as solidly as possible with the aid of a spoon, as in Fig. 10. Just this
little attention to detail not only will help to improve the appearance of the canned fruit, but will make it possible to put
more food in the jars.
[Illustration: FIG. 9]
When a jar is filled, pour into it whatever liquid is to be used, as in Fig. 11. As has been stated, hot sirup is added for
fruits and boiling water and salt for vegetables. However, when fruit is to be canned without sugar, only water is added.
With tomatoes and some greens, no liquid need be used, because they contain a sufficient amount in themselves.
[Illustration: FIG. 10]
38. PREPARATION FOR THE WATER BATH.--As the jars are filled, they must be prepared for the water bath.
Therefore, proceed to place the rubber and cover on the jar. Adjust the rubber, as shown in Fig. 12, so that it will be flat
in place. Then put the cover, or lid, on as in Fig. 13, but do not tighten it. The cover must be loose enough to allow steam
to escape during the boiling in the water bath and thus prevent the jar from bursting. If the cover screws on, as in the jar
at the left, do not screw it down tight; merely turn it lightly until it stops without pressure being put upon it. If glass covers
that fasten in place with the aid of a clamp are to be used, as in the jar at the right, simply push the wire over the cover
and allow the clamp at the side to remain up. Jars of food so prepared are ready for processing.
[Illustration: FIG 11]
[Illustration: FIG. 12]
39. PROCESSING.--The purpose of the water bath is to process the food contained in the jars before they are
thoroughly sealed. Therefore, when the jars are filled, proceed to place them in the water bath. The water, which was
placed in the sterilizer during the preparation of the food, should be boiling, and there should be enough to come 2
inches over the tops of the jars when they are placed in this large vessel. In putting the jars of food into the sterilizer,
place them upright and allow them to rest on the rack in the bottom. If the filled jars have cooled, they should be warmed
before placing them in the sterilizer by putting them in hot water. On account of the boiling water, the jars should be
handled with a jar lifter, as in Fig. 14. However, if the sterilizer is provided with a perforated part like that in Fig. 15, all the
jars may be placed in it and then lowered in place.
[Illustration: FIG. 13]
When the jars are in place, put the tight-fitting cover on the sterilizer and allow the water to boil and thus cook and
sterilize the food in the jars. The length of time for boiling varies with the kind of food and is given later with the directions
for canning different foods. The boiling time should be counted from the instant the water in the sterilizer begins to
bubble violently. A good plan to follow, provided an alarm clock is at hand, it to set it at this time, so that it will go off
when the jars are to be removed from the sterilizer.
[Illustration: FIG. 14]
[Illustration: FIG. 15]
40. SEALING THE JARS.--After processing the food in this manner, the jars must be completely sealed. Therefore, after
the boiling has continued for the required length of time, remove the jars from the water with the aid of the jar lifter or the
tray and seal them at once by clamping or screwing the covers, or lids, in place, as in Fig. 16. Sometimes, the food inside
the jars shrinks so much in this process that the jars are not full when they are ready to be sealed. This is illustrated in
Fig. 17. Such shrinkage is usually the result of insufficient blanching, or poor packing or both. However, it will not prevent
the food from keeping perfectly. Therefore, the covers of such jars of food must not be removed and the jars refilled;
rather, seal the jars tight immediately, just as if the food entirely filled them. If, in sealing jars removed from the water
bath, it is found that a rubber has worked loose, shove it back carefully with the point of a clean knife, but do not remove
the cover.
[Illustration: FIG. 15]
As the jars are sealed, place them on their sides or stand them upside down, as in Fig. 18, to test for leaks, in a place
where a draft will not strike them and cause them to break. If a leak is found in any jar, a new rubber and cover must be
provided and the food then reprocessed for a few minutes. This may seem to be a great inconvenience, but it is the only
way in which to be certain that the food will not be wasted by spoiling.
[Illustration: FIG. 17]
[Illustration: FIG. 18]
[Illustration: FIG. 19]
41. WRAPPING AND LABELING.--When the jars of food have stood long enough to cool, usually overnight, they are
ready for wrapping and labeling. Wrapping is advisable for practically all foods that are canned, so as to prevent
bleaching, and, of course, labeling is necessary when canned food is wrapped, so as to enable it to be distinguished
readily when it is in storage. To wrap canned foods, proceed as in Fig. 19. Use ordinary wrapping paper cut to a size that
will be suitable for the jar, and secure it in place with a rubber band, as shown, or by pasting the label over the free edge.
STEAM-PRESSURE METHODS
43. For canning foods by steam pressure, special equipment is necessary. In one of the steam-pressure methods, what
is known as a water-seal outfit is required, and in the other a device called a pressure cooker is employed. The work of
getting the containers ready, preparing the food for canning, packing it into the jars, and sealing and testing the jars is
practically the same in the steam pressure methods as in the cold-pack methods. The difference lies in the cooking and
sterilization of the foods after they are in the jars and partly sealed and in the rapidity with which it may be done.
44. CANNING WITH A WATER-SEAL OUTFIT.--A water-seal outfit, which may be purchased in stores that sell canning
supplies, consists of a large metal vessel into which fits a perforated metal basket designed to hold jars of food. This
vessel is also provided with a tight-fitting cover having an edge that passes down through the water, which is placed in
the bottom of the vessel. When heat is applied to the bottom of the vessel, the water inside of it is changed into steam.
The cover prevents the steam from passing out, and it collects in and around the metal basket supporting the jars of
food. Enough steam is generated in this outfit to raise the temperature about 4 to 6 degrees above the boiling point.
Thus, the water-seal outfit will cook the food in the cans in about one-fourth less time than will the water bath of the one-
period cold-pack canning method.
[Illustration: FIG. 20]
45. CANNING WITH A PRESSURE COOKER.--For canning by steam pressure, a number of different kinds of pressure
cookers are to be had, but in principle they are all alike and they are always made of heavy material, so as to withstand
the severe steam pressure generated in them. In Fig. 20 is shown one type of pressure cooker. It is provided with a bail,
or handle, for carrying it and with clamps that hold the cover firmly in place. Attached to the cover is a steam gauge,
which indicates the steam pressure inside the cooker, and a pet-cock, which is used to regulate the pressure. On some
cookers, a thermometer is also attached to the cover. Also, inside of some, resting on the bottom, is an elevated rack for
supporting the jars of food that are to be sterilized and cooked. In operating a pressure cooker, water for generating
steam is poured in until it reaches the top of this rack, but it should not be allowed to cover any part of the jars of food.
Steam is generated by applying heat to the bottom of the cooker, and the longer the heat is applied the higher the steam
pressure will go.
It is possible to secure a steam pressure of 5 to 25 pounds per square inch in a cooker of this kind. This means that the
temperature reached will vary from a few degrees above boiling to about 275 degrees Fahrenheit. At a pressure of 20
pounds, the temperature will be about 260 degrees. The heavier the material used for a cooker and the more solid the
construction, the higher may go the steam pressure, and, of course, the temperature. Some cookers of light construction
will not permit of a pressure greater than 5 pounds, but even such cookers are very satisfactory. It is the high
temperature that may be developed in a pressure cooker that greatly shortens the time required for cooking jars of food
and making them sterile.
OVEN METHOD
51. The OVEN METHOD of canning is thought to be very satisfactory by many housewives, but, as it is necessary to
remove the covers after cooking the contents of the jars, food canned in this way is subjected to contamination, just as in
the open-kettle method. In addition, the jars are difficult to handle in the oven, owing to the extreme heat that is required
to cook the food in the jars.
52. In canning by the oven method, proceed by preparing the food as for the cold-pack canning method; also, fill the jars
with fruit or vegetables and with liquid or sirup as in this method. Put the covers on the jars loosely, omitting the jar
rubbers. Place the jars in a shallow pan of water, as in Fig. 21, and set the pan containing the jars into a stove oven,
which should be only slightly warm. At the same time place the jar rubbers in a pan of boiling water, so that they may be
sterilized as the food cooks. When the jars are in the oven, increase the heat gradually until the food in them boils. Then
keep up a temperature that will allow the food to boil quietly for a period long enough to cook it soft and sterilize it.
Usually, 30 to 45 minutes after boiling has begun will be sufficient. During the cooking some of the liquid in the jars
evaporates. Therefore, when the jars of food are ready to be removed from the oven, have boiling water or sirup ready,
remove the cover of each jar in turn, and fill the jar brimful with the liquid. Then place a sterilized rubber in place and
fasten the cover down tight. The procedure from this point on is the same as in the other canning methods.
[Illustration: FIG. 21]
TABLE I
SIRUPS FOR CANNING FRUITS
Proportions Degrees
Sirup No. With Uses
Sugar Cups Water Cups Hydrometer
80. The density of sirup is also affected by the amount and rapidity of evaporation that takes place in boiling, and these,
in turn, depend on the amount of surface that is exposed. For instance, if a sirup is cooked in a large, flat kettle, the
evaporation will be greater and more rapid than if it is cooked in a small, deep vessel. Atmospheric pressure affects the
rapidity of evaporation, too. In a high altitude, evaporation takes place more slowly than at sea level, because the boiling
point is lower. Thus, in the making of sirups for canning, the first point to be determined is whether the sirup desired
should be light, medium, or heavy, and in its preparation the points mentioned must receive consideration.
81. For determining the density of sirup, a sirup gauge, or hydrometer, will be found useful. This device consists of a
graduated glass tube attached to a bulb that is weighted with mercury. The graduations, or marks, on the tube, or top
part, of the hydrometer serve to indicate the percentage of solid matter dissolved in a solution and register from to 50
degrees. To use such a gauge, partly fill a glass cylinder--an ordinary drinking glass will do--with the sirup and place the
hydrometer in it. The greater the amount of solid matter dissolved in the sirup, the higher will be hydrometer float. Then
read the number of degrees registered by observing the mark that is level with the surface of the sirup.
The number of degrees that the hydrometer should register for sirups of different densities--that is, for sirups consisting
of different proportions of sugar and water--are given in Table I. This table, in addition, gives the uses that should be
made of such sirups, and each one is numbered so that it may be referred to readily later in the recipes for canning fruits.
82. CLASSIFICATION OF FRUITS.--For the sake of convenience in canning, fruits, too, are here divided into groups.
These groups, three in number, together with the fruits included in each, are:
1. Soft Fruits, which are subdivided into three kinds, namely, sweet, sour, and very sour. The sweet soft fruits include
blackberries, blueberries or huckleberries, sweet cherries, elderberries, ripe gooseberries, mulberries, and black and red
raspberries; the sour soft fruits, apricots, currants, grapes, peaches, and strawberries; and the very sour soft fruits, sour
cherries, cranberries, green gooseberries, plums, and rhubarb.
2. Hard Fruits, which include apples, quinces, and pears.
3. Special Fruits, which include ripe figs, kumquats, loquats, nectarines, persimmons, and pineapples.
The advantage of this classification, as in the case of the vegetable classification, is that, as a rule, all fruits belonging to
a group or a subdivision of a group may be canned in the same way and with sirup of practically the same density.
83. CANNING METHODS FOR FRUITS.--The canning of fruits may be done by the several methods previously
discussed, but the Cold-pack and open-kettle methods seem to meet with most favor. On account of the sirup used in
canning fruit and the acid in the fruit, the open-kettle method is usually fairly successful, whereas, in the canning of
vegetables, with the exception of tomatoes, it is not so reliable. The housewife, by experiment, can determine which
method will suit her needs best, but by no means should methods be mixed. If a certain method is decided on, it should
be adhered to in every detail and carried through without any substitution. For all methods, as has been mentioned, the
fruit should be selected when it is fresh and in good condition, as such fruit has less chance to spoil than fruit that is
overripe or has decayed spots. After it is graded for size and condition, the fruit should be washed, stemmed, hulled,
seeded, peeled, or halved, quartered, or sliced, depending on the kind. Then the work may be proceeded with according
to the canning method that is to be followed.
84. If fruits are to be canned by the open-kettle method, certain precautions must be observed in order to insure success.
The sterilization of the product cannot be perfect in this method no matter how carefully the canning is done; and this
means that the sugar and the fruit acids must be greatly relied on to assist in preservation. Still, the jars, jar covers, jar
rubbers, and any utensils used for filling the jars must be sterilized and kept in boiling water until the fruit is ready to be
canned. Another thing to guard against is the discoloring of the fruit. Any fruit that is likely to become discolored after it is
prepared for canning should be kept in salt water until it is ready to be cooked. A solution consisting of 1 teaspoonful of
salt to each quart of water will answer for this purpose.
After the fruit has been prepared and while the containers, etc. are being sterilized, it is necessary to prepare the sirup
that is to be used. For the sweet fruits of Group 1, No. 1 or 2 sirup should be made; for the sour fruits of this group, No. 2
or 3 sirup; and for the very sour fruits, No. 4 or 5 sirup. The hard fruits may be canned by this method with No. 1, 2, or 3
sirup, while the special fruits require No. 4 or 5 sirup. If the fruit is to be canned for pie, it will be advisable to use thin
sirup and then use more sweetening when pies are made.
When the sirup is made by mixing the sugar and water and bringing it to a boil, the prepared fruit should be dropped into
it and cooked. The fruit should be cooked in the sirup until it may be easily pierced with a fork or until it is soft. Berries
have to be cooked only a few minutes, while the hard fruits may require from 10 to 15 minutes. The jars should be placed
upright in a pan of hot water while the boiling fruit from the kettle is poured into them, and as each jar is filled the rubber
should be put in place and the cover adjusted and secured. It is important to close one jar before filling another, because
the longer a jar remains open the more bacteria will be permitted to enter. Even by working as rapidly as possible and
taking the greatest precaution, a certain number of bacteria are bound to enter in this method of canning. After the jars
are filled and sealed, they should be placed upside down or on the side to cool and test for leaks.
85. If the cold-pack method is employed in canning fruit, it is possible to obtain a sterilized product that is dependent for
preservation on neither the sirup used nor the acid of the fruit. In this method, the jars, jar tops, covers, and utensils for
handling the fruit do not have to be sterilized beforehand. They may simply be washed clean and kept hot in clean water
until they are needed. After the fruits are prepared, some are blanched or scalded and cold-dipped, while others are not.
They are then packed into jars and boiling sirup is poured over them. Then the rubbers are adjusted, the covers placed
on, but not made tight, and the jars are placed under water in the water bath or on the racks in the pressure cooker,
which should contain a small amount of water, as has been explained. After cooking the required length of time, the jars
of fruit are removed from the cooking utensil, sealed, and allowed to cool.
The sirup used in the cold-pack canning method may be heavier in each case than that mentioned for the open-kettle
method, because there is no evaporation, as is the case where fruits are boiled in the sirup before they are placed in the
cans, but less will be required if the packing is well done.
107. As a rule, scoring, or judging, is done at the time the canned food is to be opened and used.
The general appearance is judged before the jar is opened. If a jar of food is well and symmetrically packed and has
clear liquid and a good color, it should receive a perfect score of 10.
The method of sealing must also be judged before the can is opened. A properly filled jar with the rubber and cover in
good condition and tightly sealed should receive a perfect score of 10.
The proportion of food to liquid should score 10. The jars should be as full of uncrushed food as possible, and the liquid
that has been added should fill all crevices to the very edge of the jar.
The flavor is judged after the can is opened, and if it is perfect, it is entitled to a score of 35. The flavor of canned fruit is
injured by any kind of spoiling, such as molding, fermentation, etc. Fruits canned in good condition should retain the
characteristic flavor of the fresh fruits; also, they should contain sufficient sugar to be agreeably sweet, but no more.
Canned vegetables should retain their characteristic flavors, with no sour, musty, nor disagreeable taste, and be slightly
salty. Canned meats and fish should also possess their characteristic flavors.
The texture of food is entitled to a score of 20 if it is perfect. The canned food should be whole; that is, in the original
pieces as they were put into the can. Underripe fruit or insufficiently cooked fruit or vegetables do not have the proper
texture; neither do overripe or uncooked foods.
The color of canned food merits a score of 15 if it is right. Fruits and vegetables should have retained their natural color.
Fading after canning may be prevented by wrapping the cans, as has been explained.
DRYING
PRINCIPLES OF DRYING
108. DRYING consists in removing the moisture contained in foods by evaporation and thus rendering them less
susceptible to the attacks of undesirable bacteria. Dried foods, as foods so treated are called, will not replace fresh or
canned foods. However, they are valuable in many cases and possess some advantages over such foods. For example,
the weight of dried foods is very greatly reduced, the storage space required by them is much less, and they are easy to
keep without spoiling and easy to transport. Likewise, the containers for such foods are less costly than those required
for canned foods and they are easily procured, since paper boxes or paper bags are satisfactory. In fact, the housewife,
by taking care of the bags and boxes that come into the home, can easily provide all the containers she will possibly
need at practically no cost.
109. The water in food that is to be dried may be evaporated by applying heat, by bringing the food in contact with
moving air, or by subjecting it to a combination of both of these methods. The heat for drying may be obtained from the
sun, as in the sun-drying method, or from the stove, as in the stove-drying method, while moving air for evaporating
moisture may be obtained from an electric fan, as in the electric-fan drying method.
In the application of any of these drying methods, however, it is important to note that the more surface of food there is
exposed, the more quickly will evaporation take place. Drying should therefore be done on devices constructed in such a
way that air may pass up through food, as well as across its surface. In drying foods, the racks should be turned
frequently, so that all parts will be exposed equally to the heat or the currents of air. Also, the food must be turned over
often, in order that all parts will dry evenly.
110. Any fruit or vegetable may be dried if the method is properly applied, but there is usually more or less change in
both the flavor and the color of the dried food. The more rapidly the drying can be done, the more natural will the color
and flavor remain; whereas, the longer the process is continued, the greater will be this change.
Foods should be dried when they are in such quantity that they cannot be used to advantage in the raw state, when
there is no market for them, when the owner cannot afford to give them away, and when home canning ceases to be
practical and profitable. In other words, if it is not practical to save foods in another way, they should be dried.
DRYING METHODS
111. DEVICES FOR DRYING.--Many manufactured devices may be had for the drying of foods. Some are made so that
they may be placed on top of a stove, like that shown in Fig. 23. This device is in the form of a metal box. It has a tray for
holding the food to be dried, and underneath this is a space for holding water. Water is poured into this space through a
funnel in one corner, and heat for drying is supplied by heating the water. Other devices are made so that they may be
suspended over a stove, put into a stove oven, or used out of doors. Still others have a heating device placed inside of
them. It is possible, however, to make drying devices in the home that will answer the purpose just as well as the devices
that may be bought.
[Illustration: FIG. 23]
As has been stated, drying devices should be so made that the air may pass up through the food and across its surface.
A pan, a platter, or a solid board, as will be readily seen, is not so good for drying as a wooden frame of convenient size
that has small slats or fine, rustless-wire netting, or screening, attached to the bottom. Such a device may be covered
with cheesecloth to keep out dirt. If it is to be used in the oven or set in the sun, a nail driven part way into each corner
will provide feet and thus keep it from resting on the oven floor or any other flat surface.
For suspending food that is to be dried over a stove, a rack like that shown in Fig. 24 may be easily made in the home.
As will be observed, it consists of three trays fastened together. These trays are suspended by four strings tied to
another string that runs over small pulleys. The pulleys are attached to a wooden brace that is secured to the kitchen
wall. The pulleys and string permit the rack to be raised or lowered, so that the food may be easily put into and taken out
of the trays.
[Illustration: FIG. 24]
112. SUN-DRYING METHOD.--If food is to be dried in the sun, spread it in a single layer on each tray, cover the trays so
that no dirt will fall into them, and set them out of doors so that the sun's rays will strike them. Glass covers will help to
increase the heat from the sun. As the sun changes, change the position of the trays or turn them. Food that is being
dried outdoors should be brought into the house when the sun goes down and put out again the following morning. This
procedure should be kept up until the food is so dry as to be leathery; that is, in a condition that will permit of bending
without cracking.
113. STOVE-DRYING METHOD.--If food is to be dried by the stove-drying method, it may be placed in the oven, on top
of the stove, or suspended above the stove.
114. If the oven is to be used, a device that fits the oven should be employed. Spread the food on the trays in single
layers, and put the device into the oven. The temperature of the oven demands attention in this method. Only a very
moderate heat may be applied at first, 110 degrees Fahrenheit being considered the ideal temperature for beginning. As
it is difficult to hold an oven at such a low temperature if a fire is burning, the oven door should be left open to admit air.
The temperature of the oven of a coal stove in which the fire is banked or is being allowed to go out is usually ideal for
drying foods. If desired, the heat of an oven may be gradually increased to about 180 degrees as the food dries; but the
application of greater heat is liable to scorch the food and injure its flavor. The food must be turned often to permit it to
dry evenly.
115. If food is to be dried on top of the stove, the device shown in Fig. 23 will prove satisfactory. The same arrangement
may be improvised by placing a metal tray over a large flat vessel of water. Place the food to be dried in a single layer on
the tray over the water. Let the water boil and keep it boiling, and turn the food frequently so that the heat will be applied
to all sides. Continue this process until the food is leathery, when it may be stored.
116. If food is to be dried in a rack suspended above the stove, a rack like that shown in Fig. 24 should be used. Cover
the trays in the rack with a single layer of food, and dry it to the leathery stage, when it may be removed and stored. In
using this device, only a coal or a wood stove is practical. When the heat coming from the stove is not great, the rack
may be allowed to come close to it, and when the heat is intense the rack may be drawn up. Regulating the distance of
the rack from the stove will tend to keep the food at a uniform temperature and allow it to dry evenly, especially when the
food is turned from time to time.
117. ELECTRIC-FAN DRYING METHOD.--If a house is wired for electricity, drying foods by means of the air-currents
generated by a moving electric fan is a simple matter. Use devices like those required for the sun and oven-drying
methods. Spread the foods to be dried on the trays in a single thin layer, and arrange them so that the air from the
electric fan will blow over them. Turn the trays as the food dries, so that one part does not dry sooner than another; also,
turn the food frequently so as to expose all parts alike. If the fan can be placed so as to blow across a stove and thus
blow heated air on the food, it will dry more quickly. A very warm kitchen is an excellent place in which to do the work
with an electric fan, as the combination of air and heat does the work more rapidly than either one used alone.
118. COMBINATION DRYING METHODS.--A combination of any of the drying methods mentioned may be used
effectively. Drying may be started in the sun and completed in the oven, or it may be started with an electric fan and
completed in the sun or the oven. Any means whereby the time required for drying may be shortened is advantageous.
EXAMINATION QUESTIONS
JELLY MAKING
PRINCIPLES OF JELLY MAKING
8. JELLY MAKING consists in cooking fruit juice with sugar until, upon cooling, it will solidify, or jell. While this is not a
difficult nor a complicated process, there are some housewives who do not have success with it. Often the result may be
very good when a certain fruit is used, whereas it may be entirely unsatisfactory at another time, even though the same
fruit is used and practically the same procedure is followed. If the best results are to be assured in jelly making, the
principles that are involved in this process must first be thoroughly understood and then the correct procedure must be
painstakingly followed out.
9. To solidify properly and thus become a desirable jelly, the fruit juice that is used for this purpose must have the
following characteristics and treatment: (1) it must contain certain jelly-making properties; (2) it must be extracted
properly; (3) it must be combined with the correct proportion of sugar; and (4) it must be cooked the proper length of time.
There are, of course, numerous degrees of solidity of jelly, varying from that which will barely retain its shape to that
which is very tough and hard, but neither extreme is desirable. To be right, the jelly should be firm enough to stand up
well, but should be tender and soft when a spoon is cut into it.
10. Fruit is the principal ingredient in the making of jelly, as it is the source from which the juice is obtained. Such
imperfections in fruits as poor shape or unattractive appearance do not count in this matter, since only the juice is used;
but they must contain jelly-making properties in order that jelly can be made from them.
Green or slightly unripe fruits are better for jelly making than fruits that have become ripe. In fact, when in this immature
state, fruits may be used to make jelly, whereas the same fruits, when perfectly ripe, often will not make jelly at all, or, if
they do, will produce a jelly that is inferior in quality.
11. The chief requirement of fruits that are to be used for jelly making is that they contain acid and pectin. Pectin is the
real jelly-making property of fruits. When it is in the presence of acid and combined with the correct proportion of sugar
and the combination is properly boiled, a desirable jelly is the result. Without pectin, however, it is impossible to make the
juice solidify, or jell. Pectin is closely related to the carbohydrates, but as it does not yield heat energy nor build tissue, its
food value is not considered. In this respect, it is like the cellulose of fruits and vegetables.
It is because green fruits contain more pectin than do ripe fruits that they are more suitable for jelly making. The lack of
either acid or pectin need not, however, prevent the making of jelly from fruits, such as sweet fruits, that contain other
jelly-making properties, for either or both may be supplied from some other source. In other words, jelly may be made
from any fruit that will yield juice and flavor.
SCORING JELLY
37. With jelly, as with canned fruit, it is a splendid idea for every housewife to score each kind she makes, so that she
can determine how it measures up in its various characteristics. If it falls below the standard, this fact should be known,
so that the fault can be remedied the next time. On the other hand, extreme satisfaction is felt if it is found to score high.
To assist in scoring jelly, a score card is here given, and following it each one of the characteristics is discussed.
SCORE CARD FOR JELLY
Per Cent.
Color 20
Solidity 25
Flavor 25
Sugar Content 25
Method of Sealing 5
Total 100
Color.-For jelly having the proper color, 20 per cent. is given. The fruit used in the making of jelly determines to a great
extent the color of the finished product, but it is possible to have a very wide difference in the colors of jelly made from
the same fruit. To be right, jelly should be clear, bright, and not too dark. If the juice is boiled too long, the jelly will be
darker than it should be. If pulp has been allowed to pass through the jelly bag in straining out the juice, either through
squeezing the bag or using a bag that is too thin, the jelly will be found to have a cloudy appearance.
Solidity.--When jelly is turned from the glass, it should be firm enough to stand alone. If it has not been boiled long
enough, it will crush down and perhaps run like sirup. If it is boiled too long or the proportion of juice to sugar is not
correct, it may be tough and leathery. Jelly whose solidity is correct scores 25 per cent. in this respect.
Flavor.--The characteristic flavor of the fruit used in making jelly should be retained as much as possible, and when this
is the case 25 per cent. is given to the product. The flavor of the jelly is therefore dependent on the flavor of the fruit. In
addition, the flavor depends on the amount of sugar used, the amount of acid in the fruit, and the length of time
consumed by the boiling. Jellies boiled too long will be strong in flavor.
Sugar Content.--The sugar content of jelly should be determined by the amount of acid that must be sweetened. An
insufficient amount of sugar will result in tough, sour jelly, while too large a quantity will make the jelly taffy-like. The
correct amount of sugar, which produces the right degree of sweetness, receives a score of 25 per cent.
Method of Sealing.--The method of sealing may seem like a matter of little importance, but if jelly is not sealed properly,
it will not be in good condition when it is to be served. To score in this respect, for which 5 per cent. is given, the jelly
should be covered with paraffin and then closed with a cover or with paper in order to exclude the dust and dirt.
PRESERVING
PRINCIPLES OF PRESERVING
49. PRESERVING consists in preparing fruits in perfect condition to resist decomposition or change by cooking them in
heavy sirup. The cooking is done so slightly that the original form, flavor, and color of the fruit are retained as far as
possible. This process is similar to that of canning by the open-kettle method; that is, the fruit and sugar are combined
and cooked to the proper consistency in the preserving kettle. Sugar is used in such quantity in the preparation of
preserves that it acts as a preservative and prevents bacteria from attacking the foods in which it is used. If preserves of
any kind ferment, it may be known that not enough sugar was used in their preparation. The sterilization of the product
and the air-tight sealing of the containers, which are necessary in the canning of fruits and vegetables, need not be
resorted to in the case of preserves.
50. SELECTION OF FRUIT.--When fruit is to be made into preserves, much attention should be paid to its selection, for,
as a rule, only the finest fruits are used for preserving. This is especially true of the smaller fruits, such as berries and
cherries, for they are preserved whole. Therefore, in order that they may have a good appearance when preserved, it is
necessary that they be as perfect as possible to begin with. In addition, the fruit should be thoroughly ripe, but not mushy
nor overripe. As the cooking of the fruits in sirup hardens them to a certain extent, fruits that are not sufficiently ripe
cannot be used, for they would be too hard when done. If care is used in selecting fruits that are to be preserved, a
good-appearing product will be the result, since this process is carried on in such a way as not to impair their shape.
51. METHODS OF PRESERVING.--Several methods of preserving fruit are in practice, but in general the same
principles characterise each one. Probably the most successful method consists in bringing a certain proportion of sugar
and water to the boiling point, dropping the fruit into the sirup thus formed, and cooking it for a definite length of time.
Boiling fruits in heavy sirup has a tendency to make them firm and solid, rather than to cook them to pieces, as would be
the case with water or a thin sirup. Even very soft berries, when used for preserves, will retain almost their original size
and shape if they are properly cooked. Except for the fact that a heavier sirup is used, the process of preserving fruit is
exactly like that of canning fruit by the open-kettle method. The chief precaution to take in this method is that as little
water as possible be used, so that the sirup may be very thick when the fruit is added.
Another method that may be recommended because it helps to keep the fruit in good condition consists in cooking it in its
own juice. In this method, equal quantities of fruit and sugar are put together and allowed to stand until enough juice is
formed, preferably overnight, so that the fruit may be cooked without the addition of any water. Strawberries are excellent
when preserved in this way.
Whichever method is followed, better results will be obtained if only a few quarts of fruit are cooked at a time. When a
large quantity of berries, for instance, is added to the boiling sirup, they will form such a thick layer that they will have to
remain over the fire a long time before they come to the boiling point. They will therefore be much more likely to crush
and give the finished product a mushy appearance than if a smaller quantity, which will form a thinner layer, is cooked
each time.
52. UTENSILS FOR PRESERVING.--The equipment necessary in the making of preserves is similar to that used for
making jelly, with the exception of the dripping bag and the hydrometer. A good-sized preserving kettle is, of course,
required for the cooking of the fruit and sirup; a measuring cup and a quart measure are needed for the measuring of the
ingredients; and a long-handled wooden spoon or paddle is the most convenient utensil with which to stir all foods of this
class. Containers similar to those used for jelly will be satisfactory receptacles in which to put preserves, but as
preserved fruits are not turned out in a mold, almost any kind of wide-mouthed bottle or jar may be used for this purpose.
Paraffin should also be provided, as this should always be used for the first covering to prevent the formation of molds,
which are likely to grow on moist sweet substances exposed to the air. Before using paraffin for preserves, they should
be allowed to stand until the surface has become absolutely dry. It is well to label preserves, too; so labels should be
kept on hand for this purpose.
53. The several methods of preserving fruits result in considerable variety in the finished product. Preserves proper are
those cooked in a heavy sirup, either whole or cut into pieces. In addition to being prepared in this way, fruit may be
made into conserve, marmalade, jam, and butter. Specific directions for the preparation of each one of these varieties
are here given, together with a number of recipes showing the kinds of fruit most suitable for the different varieties. No
housewife need deprive her family of any of these delicious preparations if she will familiarize herself with the methods
explained and will follow out minutely the directions given. In the making of the various kinds of preserves, just as much
care must be exercised as in canning and jelly making if the best results are desired.
PRESERVES
54. STRAWBERRY PRESERVE.--Strawberries selected for preserves should be of the dark, solid variety, if possible,
since these shrink less and retain their shape and size better than do the lighter varieties. This fruit is made into
preserves probably more often than any other kind, and this is not strange, for it makes a most delicious preserve.
STRAWBERRY PRESERVE
2 qt. strawberries
1/2 c. hot water
1 lb. sugar
Clean the strawberries by placing them in a colander and raising and lowering them into a large pan of water. Remove
the hulls and make sure that all the water is carefully drained from the berries. Add the water to the sugar and place over
the fire in a preserving kettle that has a smooth surface. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and allow the mixture to come to
a rapid boil. To the rapidly boiling sirup, add the strawberries by dropping them carefully into it. Allow the fruit to come to
the boiling point in the sirup, and continue to boil for 10 or 12 minutes. If the berries seem to contain an unusual amount
of water, boiling for 15 minutes may be necessary. Remove from the fire and fill into hot sterilized glasses at once, or set
aside to cool. It has been found that if the preserves are allowed to stand in the kettle overnight, they will improve in
flavor and, because of the absorption of oxygen, which they lose in boiling, they will increase in size. If the preserves are
treated in this way, it will be necessary to pour them cold into the sterilized glasses. When the preserves in the glasses
are cold, pour melted paraffin over them. Cover them with metal or paper covers, label, and store for future use.
55. CHERRY PRESERVE.--If sour cherries can be secured, an excellent preserve can be made of them. Cherries
should, of courser be seeded, or pitted, when they are prepared in this way.
CHERRY PRESERVE
2 qt. seeded sour cherries
1 c. hot water
1-1/2 lb. sugar
Drain off the superfluous juice from the cherries. Add the hot water to the sugar in a preserving kettle, and allow the
mixture to come to a boil. Add the cherries and boil for 10 or 12 minutes. Have hot sterilized jelly glasses ready and fill
with the hot preserves. Allow the preserves to cool, cover first with paraffin and then with metal or paper covers, and
label.
56. RASPBERRY PRESERVE.--Although red raspberries are a rather soft fruit, they can be used very well for preserves
if care is taken not to break them into pieces by too long cooking or too rapid boiling.
RASPBERRY PRESERVE
2 qt. red raspberries
3/4 c. hot water
1 lb. sugar
Wash the raspberries by placing them in a colander and raising and lowering them in a large pan of cold water. Mix the
hot water with the sugar in a preserving kettle, place the mixture over the fire and bring to the boiling point. Add the
raspberries to the boiling sirup, and when they have come to the boiling point, cook for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the hot
preserves from the fire and pour into hot sterilized jars. Allow them to cool, seal with paraffin and metal or paper covers,
and label.
57. PLUM PRESERVE.--A very rich, tart preserve can be made by cooking plums in a thick sirup. Those who care for
the flavor of plums will find preserves of this kind very much to their taste.
PLUM PRESERVE
2 qt. plums
1 c. hot water
1-1/2 lb. sugar
Select any variety of plums desired for preserves, and wash them in cold water. Cut them in half and remove the seeds.
Place the hot water and the sugar in a preserving kettle, and bring to a rapid boil. Add the plums and boil slowly for 15
minutes. Remove from the fire, pour into hot sterilized jelly glasses. Allow them to cool and cover first with paraffin and
then with metal or paper covers. Before storing, label each glass neatly.
58. QUINCE PRESERVE.--Quinces combined with apples make a preserve that finds favor with many. As shown in the
accompanying recipe, about one-third as many apples as quinces make the required proportion.
QUINCE PRESERVE
3 qt. quinces, peeled and quartered
1 qt. apples, peeled and quartered
1-1/2 c. hot water
3 lb. sugar
Select well-ripened quinces. Rub the fuzz from the skin with a cloth, and then wash, peel, quarter, and core. If desired,
they may be sliced, but they are very nice when preserved in quarters. Select firm apples, wash, peel, quarter, and core
them, and cut them the same size as the quinces. Add the water to the sugar, place the mixture over the fire in a
preserving kettle, and let it come to a boil. Add the quinces, cook until tender, and remove from the sirup. Then cook the
apples in the sirup in the same way, and when tender remove from the sirup. Place the fruits in alternate layers in hot
jars. Unless the sirup is very thick, boil it until it becomes heavy; then fill each jarful of fruit with this sirup. Seal with
paraffin, cover with metal or paper covers, and label.
59. PEACH PRESERVE.--Although somewhat bland in flavor, peaches make an excellent preserve. Some persons
prefer them cut into very small slices, while others like them preserved in large slices.
PEACH PRESERVE
4 qt. peaches
1-1/2 c. hot water
3 lb. sugar
Select firm peaches. Wash, pare, and cut into slices of any desirable size. Add the water to the sugar in a preserving
kettle, place over the fire, and allow the mixture to come to a rapid boil. Drop the sliced peaches into the sirup and cook
until tender. Have hot sterilized jars ready, fill with the hot preserves, and seal with paraffin. Cover in the desired way
and label.
CONSERVES
60. CONSERVES do not differ materially from preserves in their preparation, but they usually consist of a mixture of two
or more fruits, whereas preserves are made from a single fruit. All rules that govern the making of preserves apply
equally well to the making of conserves.
There are certain fruits that combine very well as far as flavor, color, etc. are concerned, and these are generally used
together in the preparation of this food. However, almost any combination of fruits may be made into conserves. This is
therefore a very good way in which to utilize small quantities of left-over fruits. Then, too, a cheap material may be
combined with a more expensive one to make a larger quantity of a moderately priced product, as, for instance, rhubarb
and pineapple. Again, the pulp from which juice has been extracted for jelly may be used to make conserve. In fact, a
little ingenuity on the part of the housewife and familiarity with general preserving methods will enable her to make many
kinds of excellent conserves, even though she may not have a definite rule or recipe to cover the use of the particular
material that happens to be on hand.
61. STRAWBERRY-AND-PINEAPPLE CONSERVE.--The combination of strawberries and pineapple is an excellent
one. The accompanying recipe shows how to combine these fruits to make a most appetizing conserve.
STRAWBERRY-AND-PINEAPPLE CONSERVE
2 qt. strawberries
1 large pineapple
1 c. hot water
2-1/2 lb. sugar
Prepare the strawberries as for canning. Peel and slice the pineapple, remove the eyes, and cut into small pieces. Add
the water to the sugar in a preserving kettle, and allow it to come to a boil. Drop the pieces of pineapple into the sirup
and cook them until they are tender. To this add the strawberries and cook for 5 or 10 minutes longer. The conserve
should then be sufficiently cooked to put into the jars. If the juice seems too thin, fill the jars, which should be hot
sterilized ones, about three-fourths full of the fruit, and then return the sirup to the heat and boil it until it is the right
consistency. Remove the boiling sirup from the stove, and pour it over the fruit in the jars until they are full. Allow the
conserve to cool, and then seal, first with paraffin and then with metal or paper covers. Label each glass and set away
for future use.
62. STRAWBERRY-AND-RHUBARB CONSERVE.--Rhubarb combines very well with either strawberries or pineapple.
The accompanying recipe is for strawberries and rhubarb, but if pineapple is desired, it may be substituted for the
strawberries in the same quantity.
STRAWBERRY-AND-RHUBARB CONSERVE
2 qt. strawberries
1-1/2 qt. rhubarb
1-1/2 c. hot water
3 lb. sugar
Prepare the strawberries as for canning. Cut the rhubarb, which should be very tender, into cubes without removing the
skin. Add the water to the sugar, and bring to a rapid boil in a preserving kettle. Put the rhubarb and strawberries into this
sirup, and cook for at least 15 minutes. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, and when cool seal in the usual way. Label and
store.
63. PINEAPPLE-AND-APRICOT CONSERVE.--No more delicious conserve can be made than pineapple-and-apricot
conserve. The tartness of the apricots gives a flavor that is pleasing to most persons.
PINEAPPLE-AND-APRICOT CONSERVE
2 qt. apricots
1 large pineapple
1 c. hot water
2-1/2 lb. sugar
Wash the apricots, plunge them into boiling water to remove the skins, and then cut into quarters. Peel and slice the
pineapple, remove the eyes, and cut into cubes. Add the water to the sugar in a preserving kettle, and bring to the boiling
point. Add the pineapple to the sirup, and cook until tender. Then drop in the apricots and boil several minutes longer.
Have hot sterilized glasses ready, fill them with the conserve, and when cool seal in the usual way. Before putting the
glasses away, label each one neatly.
64. CRAB-APPLE-AND-ORANGE CONSERVE.--It is a good idea to make crab-apple-and-orange conserve at the same
time that crab-apple jelly is made, for the pulp that remains after extracting the juice may be utilized for the conserve.
However, if it is desired to make it at some other time, fresh pulp can be prepared for the purpose.
CRAB-APPLE-AND-ORANGE CONSERVE
1 qt. crab-apple pulp
3 lb. sugar
8 oranges
To the crab-apple pulp, add the sugar, and place over the fire to boil. Peel the oranges, scoop out the white portion from
the peelings, cut the peelings into thin strips, and add to the crab-apple pulp. Remove the pulp of the orange from the
skins and from between the sections, cut it into small pieces, and add to the boiling mixture a few minutes before it is
removed from the stove. When it has cooked thick, pour into hot sterilized glasses. Cool and then seal and label.
65. PLUM CONSERVE.--A rather unusual conserve is made by combining raisins and English walnut meats with plums.
The accompanying recipe gives directions for the preparation of this conserve.
PLUM CONSERVE
4 qt. plums
1 c. hot water
2 lb. sugar
1 lb. raisins
2 c. English walnut meats
Wash the plums, cut them in half, and remove the seeds. Add the water to the sugar, place over the fire in a preserving
kettle, and stir until the mixture comes to a rapid boil. Wash the raisins, which should be seeded, add them with the
plums to the sirup, and cook until the mixture is the consistency of jelly. Just before removing from the stove, add the nut
meats. Pour the mixture into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label. If very sour plums are used, increase the amount
of sugar.
66. CHERRY-AND-PINEAPPLE CONSERVE.--Cherries combine very well with pineapple in a conserve. Sweet cherries
should, if possible, be used for this purpose.
CHERRY-AND-PINEAPPLE CONSERVE
2 qt. sweet cherries
1 pineapple
2 lb. sugar
1 c. hot water
Wash, stem, and seed the cherries. Slice and peel the pineapple and remove the eyes. Put the sugar and water over the
fire in a preserving kettle, and stir until the sirup comes to the boiling point. To this sirup add the pineapple and the
cherries and cook until the juice is very thick. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
67. RED-RASPBERRY-AND-CURRANT CONSERVE.--A conserve having a very attractive color and a most appetizing
flavor is made by combining red raspberries with red currants.
RED-RASPBERRY-AND-CURRANT CONSERVE
3 qt. red raspberries
1 qt. red currants
1 c. hot water
2-1/2 lb. sugar
Look the raspberries over carefully, and remove any that show signs of spoiling. Wash the currants and stem them. Add
the water to the sugar and put the mixture over the fire to boil. Add the currants to this, and stir until the mixture comes to
the boiling point. Boil for several minutes, or until the mixture begins to thicken, and then add the red raspberries.
Continue to boil for 2 or 3 minutes longer. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
68. CARROT CONSERVE.--Conserve made from carrots will be found to be surprisingly delicious, and it has the added
advantage of being inexpensive.
CARROT CONSERVE
1-1/2 qt. cooked cut carrots
Rind of 2 lemons
5 c. sugar
2 c. hot water
Juice of 3 lemons
Boil the carrots until tender and chop or put through a grinder with the lemon rind. Then mix with the sugar, water, and
lemon juice, and boil for about 1/2 hour or until thick. Put into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
MARMALADES
69. MARMALADES are a form of preserves that differ from the other varieties more in the nature of the fruit used than in
any other respect. For marmalades, large fruits are generally used, and, as a rule, the fruits are left in sections or in
comparatively large pieces. The preparation of this food, however, differs in no way from preserves proper and
conserves, the processes of cooking, sealing, storing, etc. being practically the same.
70. ORANGE MARMALADE.--Oranges combined with half as many lemons make a marmalade that most persons like.
In fact, orange marmalade is probably made more often than any other kind.
ORANGE MARMALADE
12 oranges
6 lemons
1-1/2 qt. hot water
5 lb. sugar
Peel the oranges and the lemons in the same way an apple would be peeled, inserting the knife deep enough to cut
through the skin covering the sections. Remove the contents of the sections and squeeze out any juice that may remain
in the thin skin. Remove the white material from the inside of the peeling, and cut the yellow portion that remains into thin
strips. Add the water to the skins and simmer slowly for 1 hour. At the end of this time, add the sugar and the orange and
the lemon pulp, and boil until the mixture is thick. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses, cool, and then seal and label.
71. ORANGE-AND-RHUBARB MARMALADE.--If a somewhat different flavor is desired in a marmalade, rhubarb
instead of lemons may be used with oranges, as shown in the accompanying recipe.
ORANGE-AND-RHUBARB MARMALADE
8 oranges
1 qt. hot water
4 lb. sugar
3 qt. rhubarb cut into pieces
Prepare the oranges as for orange marmalade. Slowly cook the yellow part of the skin in 1 quart of water for 1/2 hour. To
this add the sugar and the rhubarb, and cook slowly until it is quite thick. Stir in the orange pulp and cook until the
mixture is again thick. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
72. QUINCE MARMALADE.--Quinces cut into quarters, cooked, and then forced through a sieve make an exceptionally
good marmalade, so far as both flavor and color are concerned. No other fruit need be used with the quinces, as they
have enough flavor in themselves.
QUINCE MARMALADE
4 qt. quartered quinces
1 qt. hot water
4 lb. sugar
Wipe the fuzz from the quinces, wash, quarter, and remove the cores, but do not peel. Put over the fire in a preserving
kettle with the water. Cook until the quinces are soft, remove from the fire, and mash through a sieve. Add the sugar to
the quince pulp, replace on the fire, and cook until the mixture is thick, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Pour into
hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
73. GRAPE MARMALADE.--The pulp and skins of grapes are especially satisfactory for marmalade. In fact, most
persons who are fond of grapes find marmalade of this kind very appetizing.
GRAPE MARMALADE
4 qt. stemmed grapes
2 c. hot water
3 lb. sugar
Separate the pulp of the grapes from the skins, put it into a preserving kettle with the water, and heat to the boiling point.
Cook slowly until the seeds can be separated from the pulp, and then remove the seeds by pressing the pulp through a
sieve. Return to the preserving kettle with the grape skins. Add the sugar, and cook the mixture slowly until it is thick,
stirring constantly to prevent scorching. Care must be taken not to cook it too long, as the marmalade becomes quite stiff.
Pour into hot, sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
74. ORANGE-AND-PINEAPPLE MARMALADE.--No better combination can be secured than oranges and pineapple.
To make marmalade, both fruits are cut into small pieces and then cooked in a thick sirup.
ORANGE-AND-PINEAPPLE MARMALADE
8 oranges
2 c. hot water
2 pineapples
4 lb. sugar
Wash the oranges, cut skins and all into small pieces, remove the seeds, and boil slowly in the water until the skins are
soft. Prepare the pineapples by peeling them, removing the eyes, and then shredding or cutting into very small pieces.
Add the pineapple to the orange, stir in sugar, and continue to boil until the juice is at the jelly stage. Pour into hot
sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
JAMS
75. JAM is similar to preserves, except that the fruit used is made into a pulp before it is cooked with the sugar or after a
part of the cooking is done. As a rule, only whole small fruits are used for jams, but the larger fruits can be utilized for this
purpose by being cut fine and made into a pulp. When small fruits are used, part or all of the seeds are sometimes
removed, but generally the seeds are allowed to remain if they are not too large. Jam is made thick by long boiling, and
when done is usually quite smooth. A precaution, however, that should always be taken is not to cook it too long, for jam
is very unappetizing if it is too thick.
Fruit may be purchased purposely for jam, but for the most part, this form of preserve is made of imperfect or very ripe
fruits that are not suitable for canning, preserves, and other processes that require almost perfect fruit. If this point is kept
in mind, it will be possible, during the canning season, to make into a delicious jam fruit that would otherwise be wasted.
76. STRAWBERRY JAM.--As strawberries have very small seeds, this fruit makes an excellent jam.
STRAWBERRY JAM
4 qt. strawberries
2 lb. sugar
Wash and hull the strawberries. Then mash them in a preserving kettle and add the sugar to them. Place over the fire,
and boil slowly until the mixture becomes thick, stirring frequently to prevent the jam from sticking to the kettle and
scorching. When the jam is cooked to the proper consistency, the juice should test as for jelly. Pour the mixture into hot
sterilized glasses, cool, and then seal and label.
77. RASPBERRY JAM.--Both red and black raspberries are much used for jam. Some persons like to remove the seeds
from raspberry jam, but as very little pulp remains after the seeds are taken out, this plan is not recommended.
RASPBERRY JAM
4 qt. raspberries
2 lb. sugar
Look over the raspberries carefully and then wash. Put them into a preserving kettle with the sugar. Heat to the boiling
point, and cook slowly for a few minutes. Then mash the berries to a pulp, and continue to cook until the mixture thickens
and the juice tests as for jelly. Pour into hot sterilized jars, cool, seal, and label.
78. GREEN-GAGE JAM.--Green gages make a smooth, tart jam that appeals to most persons. The seeds of the plums
are, of course, removed, but the skins are allowed to remain in the jam.
GREEN-GAGE JAM
4 qt. green-gage plums
4 lb. sugar
1-1/2 c. hot water
Wash the plums, cut them in half, and remove the seeds, but not the skins. Dissolve the sugar in the water over the fire,
and when it comes to the boiling point, add the plums. Cook slowly until the plums are mushy and the entire mixture is
thick. Pour into sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label. If sweet plums are used, decrease the quantity of sugar.
79. GOOSEBERRY JAM.--When gooseberries are well ripened, they make very good jam. As this fruit is rather tart,
considerable sugar must be used if a sweet jam is desired.
GOOSEBERRY JAM
4 qt. gooseberries
3 lb. sugar
Remove the stems and blossom ends from the gooseberries and wash thoroughly. Add the sugar to the berries in a
preserving kettle. Bring to a rapid boil, cook for a few minutes, and then mash the berries to a pulp. Cook until the mixture
thickens and tests as for jelly. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
80. BLACKBERRY JAM.--Probably no jam is so well liked as that made from blackberries. Some varieties of these are
large in size and contain considerable pulp in proportion to seeds. These are especially suitable for jam.
BLACKBERRY JAM
4 qt. blackberries
1/2 c. hot water
2 lb. sugar
Wash the berries thoroughly, and put them over the fire with the water. Bring to the boiling point, and boil slowly for a few
minutes. Then mash the berries, add the sugar, and cook the mixture until, when tested, it is of a jelly-like consistency.
Pour into hot, sterilized glasses, cool, and label.
BUTTERS
81. FRUIT BUTTERS are a form of preserves similar to jams, and are used in the place of preserves, jams, conserves,
or marmalades. The fruit used for this purpose, which may be either large or small, is usually very ripe and somewhat
soft. Therefore, as in the case of jams, imperfect fruits that are not suitable for other purposes can be used very well for
butters.
Butters made from fruits differ from jams in that both the skins and seeds are always removed. The completed mixture is
smooth and thick, having been made thick by long boiling and evaporation, rather than by the addition of large quantities
of sugar. In fact, less sugar is used for butters proportionately than for any other preserved fruit. Spices are generally
used in butters, so that the mixture is very highly flavored.
To prevent butters from scorching, they should be stirred constantly for a long period of time. This stirring becomes very
tiresome, but it should not be stopped or the mixture is certain to scorch. If they are properly cooked, butters keep well
with very little care in storage. Crocks are generally used for the storage of butters, but glasses or jars may be
substituted.
82. APPLE BUTTER.--Apples are very often made into butter, but for this purpose sour apples that will cook soft should
be selected. If the procedure explained in the accompanying recipe is followed, very good results may be expected.
APPLE BUTTER
4 qt. apples
8 qt. cider
1 lb. sugar
3 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. cloves
1 tsp. allspice
Peel the apples and quarter them. Boil the cider until it is reduced half. Add the apples to the cider, and cook slowly for
about 3 hours, or until they are mushy, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon to prevent the apples from sticking to the
bottom of the kettle. At the end of this time, the mixture should be thick and smooth and dark in color. If it gets too thick,
more cider can be added. About 1 hour before the cooking is completed, add the sugar and the spices. Even greater
care must be exercised from this time on to prevent scorching. If, after cooking 3 hours, the mixture is not sufficiently
thick, continue to cook until more of the moisture is evaporated. Have hot sterilized glasses or crocks ready, fill them with
the butter, cool, and seal.
83. PEACH BUTTER.--Peaches are especially satisfactory when made into butter. This fruit does not require such long
cooking as apples, as will be seen in the accompanying recipe.
PEACH BUTTER
4 qt. peaches
1 c. hot water
1 lb. sugar
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. cloves
Wash the peaches, rub them to remove the fuzz, cut them in half, and take out the seeds. Measure the peaches and put
them with the water into the preserving kettle, bring them to a boil, and cook until they are thoroughly softened. Then
press them through a sieve or a colander, return the pulp to the preserving kettle, and add the sugar and the spices.
Cook slowly for 1 or 2 hours, or until it has become a rich dark, clear color. Pour the butter into hot sterilized glasses or
crocks, cool, and seal.
84. PEAR BUTTER.--An appetizing fruit butter can be made from pears in the same way that peach butter is made.
PEAR BUTTER
4 qt. pears, quartered
2 c. hot water
1 lb. sugar
2 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. cloves
Wash, cut, and core the pears, but do not peel them. Cut them into quarters, and put the quarters into a preserving kettle
with the water. Bring to the boiling point, and boil until soft or mushy. Remove from the kettle and force through a sieve or
a colander. To the pulp, add the sugar and spices, return to the kettle, and cook slowly for about 2 hours, stirring
constantly to prevent scorching. If 2 hours is not sufficient to cook the mixture dry, cook a little longer. Pour into hot
sterilized glasses or jars, cool, and seal.
85. PLUM BUTTER.--Another very good way in which to preserve plums for future use is to make butter of them. The
accompanying recipe explains the correct procedure for butter of this kind.
PLUM BUTTER
4 qt. plums
1 c. hot water
3 lb. sugar
2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. cloves
Wash the plums, cut them in half, and remove the seeds. Put the plums with the water into a preserving kettle, and boil
until they are soft. Press them through a sieve or a colander, return to the preserving kettle, and add the sugar and
spices. Boil until the mixture is thick and jelly-like, stirring constantly to prevent scorching. Pour into hot sterilized crocks
or glasses, cool, and seal. If very sour plums are used, increase the amount of sugar.
PICKLING
PRINCIPLES OF PICKLING
86. PICKLING consists in preserving fruits and vegetables in vinegar or brine. Each of these liquids acts as a
preservative, so that the receptacles, or containers, for the food do not have to be sealed air-tight, nor does the
preserved food require much care in order to have it keep perfectly.
The effect of the pickling liquids on both fruits and vegetables is very similar. The salt in the brine or the vinegar hardens
the cellulose of the foods to such an extent that they are impervious to the action of bacteria. While this permits the foods
to keep well, it also makes them difficult to digest, a fact that must be remembered when pickled foods are included in the
diet.
87. The procedure in pickling is simple. After the fruit or vegetable is cleaned and prepared in the way desired, it is
merely a matter of placing the food in sterilized jars or crocks, pouring the hot preserving liquid over it, allowing it to cool,
and then storing it. In some cases the food is cooked, and in others it is not. As a rule, spices of some kind or other are
added, both to aid in preserving and to impart flavor.
88. Practically all large fruits and many vegetables are pickled, as is shown in the recipes that follow. Foods preserved
by pickling are known as either pickles or relishes. While both products are similar in many respects, relishes are
distinguished from pickles in that, as a rule, they are made up from more than one kind of fruit or vegetable and usually
the pieces are cut or chopped and not put up whole. Often the foods in relishes are chopped or cut so fine as to make it
almost impossible to tell what the fruit or vegetable was originally.
The food value of both these products is not extremely high, unless a great quantity of sugar is used in the pickling. This
is sometimes the case with pickled peaches or pears, but seldom if ever with pickled vegetables.
89. SMALL CUCUMBER PICKLES.--Perhaps the most common pickles are small cucumbers pickled according to the
accompanying recipe. Such pickles meet with favor and serve very well as appetizers. The cucumbers selected should
be small, so that they will be solid all the way through.
SMALL CUCUMBER PICKLES
1 gal. water
4 c. coarse salt
200 small cucumbers
1/2 gal. vinegar
1-1/2 tsp. celery seed
1 lb. light-brown sugar
1/2 tsp. mustard seed
1 tsp. salt
1 oz. stick cinnamon
1 tsp. whole cloves
Make a brine of the water and the coarse salt, pour it over the cucumbers, and allow them to stand for 24 hours. At the
end of this time, pour off the brine, wash the pickles in cold water, and place them into crocks. Heat the vinegar, add the
celery seed, sugar, mustard seed, salt, cinnamon, and cloves, and bring the mixture to the boiling point. Pour this over
the pickles in the crocks, cover closely while hot, and place in storage. If the pickles are desired sweet, add more brown
sugar to the mixture.
90. SLICED-CUCUMBER PICKLES.--Large cucumbers cut into slices may be pickled in practically the same way as
small cucumbers. At times, when small cucumbers are hard to get, large cucumbers will take their place very well. In fact,
some housewives prefer sliced cucumber pickles to the small ones.
SLICED-CUCUMBER PICKLES
1 gal. sliced cucumbers
1 c. coarse salt
1-1/2 qt. vinegar
1 pt. water
1 tsp. pepper
3 tsp. mustard
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. cloves
4 onions, chopped
1 c. brown sugar
1 Tb. salt
Select rather large cucumbers. Wash and peel them and cut into 1/4-inch slices. Sprinkle well with salt, and mix the salt
among the layers of cucumbers. Allow this to stand for 24 hours; then drain and wash in clear cold water. To the vinegar
and water add the spices, onion, sugar, and salt. Heat this to the boiling point, pour over the sliced cucumbers, and pack
them into jars or crocks. Seal while hot and store.
91. CUCUMBERS IN BRINE.--Cucumbers may also be preserved in brine, stored, and pickled in vinegar later in any
quantity, as desired.
Pour 1 gallon of boiling water over 4 cupfuls of coarse salt. This should make brine that is heavy enough to support an
egg. Wash cucumbers of any desired size, put them into a sterilized crock, in layers, and pour the brine, which has been
allowed to cool, over the cucumbers until they are entirely covered. Cover the top of the crock well and store. Cucumbers
preserved in this way may be taken from the brine at any time and pickled. To do this, soak them in fresh water to
remove the salty taste. The fresh water may have to be poured off and replaced several times. After they have been
freshened sufficiently, pickle them in vinegar and season them in any desirable way.
92. PICKLED BEANS.--String beans that are pickled make a good relish to serve with meals. Unlike cucumbers that are
pickled, the beans are cooked before the preserving liquid is added. The accompanying recipe is for either wax or green
beans.
PICKLED BEANS
4 qt. beans
1-1/2 qt. vinegar
1 c. brown sugar
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
1 tsp. allspice
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. cloves
Select large, firm, tender wax or green beans. Cover them with water to which has been added 1 level teaspoonful of salt
to each quart and put them over the fire to cook. Boil the beans until they can be pierced with a fork, remove from the
fire, drain, and pack into jars or crocks. To the vinegar add the sugar, salt, and spices. Bring this mixture to the boiling
point, and pour it over the beans in the jars or crocks, filling them completely or covering the beans well. Close tight and
store.
93. PICKLED BEETS.--Pickled beets meet with much favor as a relish. Like pickled beans, they must be cooked before
they can be pickled; also, unless they are very small, they should be sliced before pickling as the recipe points out.
PICKLED BEETS
4 qt. red beets
2 qt. vinegar
2 c. brown sugar
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. cloves
1 tsp. allspice
Cut the tops from the red beets, leaving 1 inch of the stems and the roots attached. Scrub well with a vegetable brush,
and put to cook in boiling water. Cook until the beets are tender enough to be pierced with a fork. Pour off the hot water
and run cold water over them. Remove the roots and stems, and cut into slices of any desired thickness or into dice, if
preferred. Pack into jars or crocks. Then bring the vinegar to a boil, and to it add the sugar, salt, and spices. Pour this
hot mixture over the beets. Seal the beets while hot, cool, and store.
94. PICKLED CAULIFLOWER.--Cauliflower is another vegetable that lends itself well to pickling. This food must be
cooked, too, before pickling; and to have it just right for packing into the containers, it requires particular attention in
cooking.
PICKLED CAULIFLOWER
4 qt. cauliflower broken into pieces
2 c. brown sugar
1 Tb. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
1 qt. vinegar
1 pt. water
Select firm heads of cauliflower and break them into sections or flowerets. Immerse these in cold water to which has
been added 1 teaspoonful of salt to the quart. Allow the cauliflower to stand for 1 hour in the salt water. Remove from the
water, and put over the fire to cook in salt water of the same proportion as that used for soaking. Cook until the
cauliflower is quite tender, but not so tender as it would be cooked to serve at the table. If this is done, the cauliflower will
darken and break into pieces. It should be firm enough not to crush or break easily when it is packed into the jars. When
properly cooked, pack closely into jars, add the sugar, salt, and pepper to the vinegar and water, heat to the boiling
point, and pour this liquid over the cauliflower, completely covering it. Seal while hot, allow to cool, and store.
95. PICKLED ONIONS.--Pickled onions are well liked by many. For pickling purposes, medium small onions of uniform
size are most suitable. Owing to their nature, onions cannot be pickled so quickly as some of the vegetables mentioned,
but, otherwise, the work is done in practically the same way.
PICKLED ONIONS
4 qt. onions
2 qt. spiced vinegar
Select onions that are as nearly the same size as possible. Peel them and let them stand in fresh water for 24 hours.
Pour off this water, and over the onions pour a brine made by adding 2 cupfuls of salt to each gallon of water. Allow them
to stand in this brine for 3 days, changing the brine once during this time. Remove the onions from the brine, and freshen
in cold water for 2 hours. Drain the onions and cook them in the spiced vinegar for 1/2 hour. Any of the spiced vinegars
given for the other vegetables may be used. After cooking, pack the onions with the liquid into jars, seal, cool, and store.
96. PICKLED PEACHES.--Among the fruits that may be pickled, peaches seem to meet with great favor. They, as well
as pickled pears and pickled crab apples, make a relish that adds variety to the foods that are served in the home from
day to day. The pickling process does not differ materially from that applied to vegetables, as the accompanying recipe
shows.
PICKLED PEACHES
2 lb. brown sugar
1 qt. vinegar
1 oz. stick cinnamon
4 qt. peaches
2 Tb. cloves
Boil the sugar, vinegar, and cinnamon together until they begin to look sirupy. Wash the peaches and rub off the fuzz.
Stick one or two cloves into each peach, and drop the peaches into the sirup. Cook them until they may be easily pierced
with a fork. Put them into jars, pour the sirup over them, filling each jar, and seal while hot. Allow the jars to cool and
store. The peaches may be peeled if desired. It may also be more convenient to cook only part of the peaches in the
sirup at one time, cooking the remainder after these have been taken out and put into jars.
97. PICKLED PEARS.--Pears also lend themselves readily to pickling. Specific directions are not given here, because
they are pickled in exactly the same way as peaches. The pears may be peeled or not, as desired.
98. PICKLED CRAB APPLES.--Crab apples that are to be pickled should preferably be of a large variety. The directions
given for pickling peaches apply also to this fruit. The crab apples should be examined carefully to make certain that they
contain no worms. Also, the stems should be left on, and they should be washed thoroughly with the blossom ends cut
out.
(1) (a) Give three reasons why the making and use of jelly has value. (b) When are pickles permissible in the diet?
(2) What is necessary for the making of good jelly?
(3) Mention some important points to consider in selecting fruit for jelly making.
(4) (a) What is pectin? (b) Why are ripe fruits not so satisfactory for jelly making as partly green ones?
(5) Give the test for pectin.
(6) How may jelly be made from fruit juices that do not contain pectin?
(7) Give the best method of extracting fruit juice for jelly.
(8) What material is best for jelly bags? Why?
(9) What is the general proportion of sugar and juice for making: (a) jelly from very sour fruits? (b) jelly from slightly sour
fruits?
(10) Give the method for making jelly by the mean-boiling method.
(11) What is meant by: (a) short boiling? (b) long boiling?
(12) Give two tests for determining when jelly has cooked sufficiently.
(13) (a) How should glasses be prepared before filling them with jelly? (b) How are glasses closed for storing?
(14) (a) What are preserves? (b) What kind of fruits should be selected for preserves?
(15) Describe the best method of making preserves.
(16) How do conserves differ from preserves?
(17) How do marmalades differ from conserves?
(18) Describe jam.
(19) How does fruit butter differ from jams?
(20) What are: (a) pickles? (b) relishes?
CONFECTIONS
NATURE AND COMPOSITION
NATURE OF CONFECTIONS
1. CONFECTIONS are such sweetmeats as candy and similar articles, which have for their foundation sugar, sirup,
honey, and the like. As is well known, the most important variety of confection is candy, and this is the one that is usually
meant when the term confections is mentioned. Confections, however, are not so limited as might be imagined upon first
thought, for many delicious dishes whose main ingredient is nuts, fruits, coconut, or pop corn are also placed in this
class. To be sure, most of these contain sweetening material of some sort in greater or smaller quantities. Therefore, in
its broadest sense, confections may be regarded as preparations having for their chief ingredient sugar or substances
containing it, such as molasses, honey, etc., usually mixed with other food materials, such as nuts, fruits, chocolate,
starches, and fats, to give them body and consistency, and flavored and colored in any desired way.
2. The making of confections, and of candy in particular, is both a useful and a delightful pastime that can be indulged in
even by those who are only slightly skilled. In fact, with a certain amount of knowledge of the methods used and a little
practice, surprising results can be obtained by the amateur candy maker. Then, too, it is a comparatively simple matter to
copy the confectioner's work. A considerable variety of candies can often be made from a simple foundation material if a
little originality or ingenuity is applied.
Since it is an easy matter to prepare foods of this kind and since they can be made at home more cheaply and of more
tasty and wholesome materials, it is a decided advantage to make them rather than buy them, particularly if they are
used extensively in the home. However, not so much fear need be felt now as formerly with regard to commercially made
candies, for much has been done in recent years to compel the use of wholesome materials in candies, especially the
cheaper ones that children are apt to buy. The pure-food laws require that no such adulterants as are not food materials
and no harmful flavorings, colorings, nor alcoholic beverages be used in making confections. As can well be understood,
this is a valuable protection. Consequently, at the present time, the harm, if any, resulting from eating candy comes from
either the excessive or the wrong use of it.
3. The taste for confections of all kinds is one that is acquired, and it is often developed to harmful extremes. Therefore,
these foods, like most others, should be indulged in only in moderation. They will then prove not only valuable, but
entirely unharmful. The greatest precaution that should be observed in their use is in giving them to children. Very young
children should not have candy at all, it being much too concentrated for digestive organs that are used to handling only
diluted food materials. As they grow older and their diet begins to include more foods, a small quantity of wholesome
sweets will not be harmful if it is given at meal time. Adults with normal digestion may eat a reasonable amount of candy
and other confections without injury.
4. To assist in the making of confections in the home, the principles of candy making, as well as those which must be
understood for the making of such other foods as are commonly called confections, are given in this Section. In addition,
there are included explicit directions for the making of simple candies and confections and of some of the varieties that
are more difficult to make. The various operations are not hard to perform, and good results may be expected if each
step is carried out as directed. The operations requiring skill and dexterity, such as the coating of bonbons and
chocolates, must be repeated several times if results that approach those of the professional confectioner are to be
attained. Still, surprisingly good results may be obtained the first time the work is done if directions are followed explicitly.
COMPOSITION OF CONFECTIONS
5. CARBOHYDRATE IN CONFECTIONS.--So far as their composition is concerned, confections are largely
carbohydrate in the form of sugar. This food material may be one of several different varieties. As is well understood, the
high percentage of carbohydrate, which in some cases may be very close to 100 per cent., greatly increases the food
value of this variety of foods. Where the percentage is very high, the candies are necessarily hard, for all or nearly all the
moisture is driven off in the making. In this case, as in other foods, the more water there is present, the more reduced is
the total food value.
6. FAT IN CONFECTIONS.--To a certain extent, fat is found in these high-carbohydrate foods. It is supplied largely by
the use of milk, condensed milk, cream, butter or butter substitutes, nuts, and chocolate. While these materials are
usually added to produce a certain flavor or consistency, they form at the same time an ingredient that greatly increases
the food value of the finished product.
7. PROTEIN IN CONFECTIONS.--Protein is not found extensively in confections unless nuts, chocolate, milk, or other
foods containing it are used in their preparation. But, even then, sweets are usually eaten in such small quantities that
the protein in them does not figure to any great extent, so that, at best, confections are not considered as a source of
protein at any time. However, chocolate-coated nuts, as will readily be seen, are a rather high-protein food.
8. MINERAL SALTS IN CONFECTIONS.--Refined sugar does not contain mineral salts, so that unless other ingredients
containing this food substance are added, no mineral salts will be present in confections. It is true that some of the
ingredients used, such as milk, fruits, nuts, molasses, honey, maple sirup, etc., contain certain minerals; but just as
confections are not taken as a source of protein, so they are not characterized by the minerals in them.
CONFECTION MAKING
INGREDIENTS USED IN CONFECTIONS
FOUNDATION MATERIALS
9. SUGAR.--The most important ingredient used in the making of confections is sugar. It is therefore well that the nature
of this ingredient be thoroughly understood. Its chief commercial varieties are cane sugar and beet sugar, both of which
produce the same results in cookery operations. When sugar is mentioned as an ingredient, plain granulated sugar is
meant unless it is otherwise stated. Whether this is cane or beet sugar makes no difference. The fineness and the color
of sugar are due to its refinement and the manufacturing processes through which it is put, and these are indicated by
various terms and trade names, such as granulated, pulverized, and soft sugars.
The grading of granulated sugar is based on the size of its crystals, this sugar coming in three qualities. The coarsest is
known as coarse granulated; the next finer, as standard granulated; and the finest, as fine granulated. There is also a
fourth grade known as fancy fine, or extra-fine, granulated, and often called fruit, or berry, sugar.
10. So far as candy is concerned, the coarseness of the sugar does not make a great deal of difference, although the
finer sugars are perhaps a little better because they dissolve more quickly in the liquid and are a trifle less likely to
crystallize after cooking. When sugar is to be used without cooking, however, its fineness makes a decided difference.
Sugars finer than granulated are known as pulverized sugars and are made by grinding granulated sugar in a mill that
crushes the crystals. These pulverized sugars are known on the market as coarse powdered, standard powdered, and
XXXX powdered, the last being the one that should always be purchased for the making of confectionery where the use
of uncooked sugar is required. One of the chief characteristics of sugars of this kind is that they lump to a great extent,
the finer the sugar the larger and harder being the lumps. Before sugar that has become lumpy can be used, it must be
reduced to its original condition by crushing the lumps with a rolling pin and then sifting the sugar through a fine wire
sieve. As explained in Cakes, Cookies, and Puddings, Part 1, sugars of this kind are not suitable for cooking purposes,
such as the preparation of cooked icings, etc. These are made from granulated or other coarse sugar, while the
uncooked ones are made from XXXX, or confectioners', sugar, as it is sometimes called. Then, too, fine sugars cost more
than do the granulated sugars, so it is well to remember that nothing is gained by their use.
11. The third variety of sugars, which are known as soft sugars, are purchased by the retail dealer by number. There are
fifteen grades of this sugar, ranging from 1 to 15, and the number indicates the color of the sugar. No. 1 is practically
white, while No. 15 is very dark, and the intervening numbers vary in color between these two shades. The lightness of
the color indicates the amount of refinement the sugars have had. The dark-brown sugars are stronger in flavor and
indicate less refinement than the light ones. When brown sugar is required for any purpose, it is usually advisable to use
one of the lighter shades, because they are more agreeable in taste than the very dark ones.
12. MOLASSES.--The liquid that remains after most of the sugar has been refined out of the cane juice is known as
molasses. The juice from beets does not produce molasses; therefore, all of the molasses found on the market is the
product of cane juice. A molasses known as sorghum molasses is made by boiling the sap of sorghum, which is a stout
cereal grass, but this variety is seldom found on the general market, it being used locally where it is manufactured. The
dark color and the characteristic flavor of molasses are due to the foreign materials that remain in the juice after the
removal of the sugar. Molasses is not so sweet as sugar, but it is much used as an ingredient in the making of many
delicious confections. As in the case of soft sugars, the lighter the molasses is in color, the more agreeable is the flavor
of the confections made from it.
13. GLUCOSE.--Another substance much used in the making of confections is glucose. It is usually manufactured from
the starch of corn and is put on the market under various trade names, but generally it is called corn sirup. Many persons
have long considered glucose a harmful food, but this belief has been proved untrue. Glucose has come to be absolutely
necessary in some candy making in order to produce certain results. The glucose that the confectioners use is a heavier,
stickier substance than the sirups that can be purchased for table use or for cooking, but these do very well for most
candy-making purposes. However, none of the glucose preparations are so sweet as sugar, maple sirup, or honey.
14. Glucose will not crystallize nor make a creamy substance; neither will it permit any substance that contains more than
a very little of it to become creamy. A creamy candy containing a small amount of it will remain soft longer than that made
without it; also, it will cream without danger of the formation of large crystals. Because of these characteristics, which are
responsible for its use in candy making, a mixture containing glucose will not "go to sugar." Taffy-like confections and
clear candies contain a large proportion of glucose, while any that are intended to be creamy, such as bonbons and the
centers for chocolates, have only a small amount, if any, glucose in them.
15. MAPLE SIRUP AND MAPLE SUGAR.--Maple sirup and maple sugar, because of their pleasing flavor, are used
extensively for candy making. Maple sirup is, of course, the basis for maple sugar, for by boiling the sirup to evaporate
the water and then stirring it, maple sugar results. When the sirup is used for candy making, it must be boiled, but it
seldom requires any liquid other than that which it already contains. On the other hand, maple sugar requires liquid in
some form, for it must first be dissolved in a liquid and then boiled with it.
16. HONEY.--Honey that has been pressed from the comb and is in the form of a heavy sirup is used in the making of
various confections. It provides a delightful flavor much different from that of sugar, and when it is cooked it acts in much
the same way as glucose.
FLAVORINGS
17. KINDS OF FLAVORINGS.--Flavorings are very important in the making of confections, for it is on them that much of
the appetizing effect of these foods depends. In fact, unless good flavorings are secured and then used discreetly, tasty
results cannot be expected.
The flavorings used in candy making are in reality divided into two classes--natural and artificial .
18. NATURAL FLAVORINGS.--Under the head of natural flavorings come those which are made from the fruit or the
plant that produces the desired flavor. They are known as oils and extracts.
19. The oils are obtained by pressing out the natural flavoring substance from the material containing it. They are usually
very strong, so that only a little is needed to flavor a comparatively large quantity of food. Peppermint, wintergreen, and
cinnamon are the oils that are used the most.
20. EXTRACTS are prepared by using alcohol to extract the flavoring substances from certain materials. The alcohol
acts as a preservative, so that the finished extract nearly always contains a high percentage of this material. Vanilla and
such flavorings as lemon and orange are examples of extracts that are usually made in this way. A few companies
manufacture a product in which glycerine instead of alcohol is used as the preservative. Flavorings so prepared are in
the form of a thick, sirupy substance rather than a liquid and are usually sold in a tube.
21. ARTIFICIAL FLAVORINGS.--Flavorings classified as artificial flavorings are of two kinds: those having for their
basis substances extracted from coal tar and those prepared by various chemical combinations. They are also known as
synthetic flavors. With regard to both healthfulness and taste, they are not so desirable as the natural flavorings.
22. ADULTERATION OF FLAVORINGS.--As it is a common practice to adulterate flavorings, every manufacturer of
these materials is obliged to state on the label of each bottle or tube of flavoring just what its contents consist of.
Therefore, when the purchase is made, the label should be carefully examined. Without doubt, vanilla is adulterated
more often than any other flavoring, a pure extract of vanilla being seldom found. The beans from which the flavor is
extracted are very expensive, so the Tonka bean and other cheaper flavoring substances are often resorted to in the
making of this flavoring. However, when large amounts of such things are used, the price of the extract should be less
than that charged for the pure extract of the vanilla bean. Many chefs and professional cooks overcome this difficulty by
purchasing the vanilla beans and using them for flavoring purposes by soaking or cooking small pieces of them in the
material that is to be flavored or grinding the bean in a mortar and using it in the ground form.
COLORINGS
23. COLORINGS are used in the making of confections, candy in particular, for two purposes: to make them attractive
and to indicate certain flavors. For instance, candies flavored with wintergreen are usually colored pink, while those
containing peppermint are colored pale green or are left white. Strawberry and rose flavors are also colored pink; orange
and lemon, their respective shades of yellow; violet, lavender; and pistachio and almond, green.
24. The substances used for coloring confections are of two general classes: vegetable and mineral , or chemical . The
vegetable colorings, like the natural flavorings, are considered to be the most healthful ones. Some of the chemical
colorings are derivatives of coal tar, just as are the coal-tar flavorings. Cochineal, a red color extracted from the bodies of
cochineal insects, is a coloring matter much used in the preparation of confections. These coloring materials may be
purchased in several forms. The ones most commonly used come in the form of liquid or paste, but frequently colorings
are to be had in powder or tablet form.
25. Discretion must always be observed in the use of colorings. Because of their concentration, they must be greatly
diluted and used in only very small amounts. As is well known, pale colors in candies are always more attractive than
deep ones. Then, too, when candies contain much color, most persons are likely to consider them harmful to eat. To get
the best results, only a little coloring should be added at a time, and each amount added should be mixed in thoroughly.
Then the danger of getting too much coloring will be avoided. It should be remembered, however, that if colored candies
are kept for any length of time or are exposed to the light, they will fade to a certain extent; consequently, these may be
colored a little more deeply than those which are to be used at once.
ACIDS
26. To prevent the creaming or the crystallizing of such candy as taffy, an acid of some kind is generally used with the
cane sugar in the making of this variety of confection. The acid, upon being boiled with the sugar, changes a part of the
cane sugar to invert sugar, and as this does not crystallize, the candy will not become sugary. A similar effect is obtained
by adding glucose in sufficient amounts; since it does not crystallize, the cane sugar is prevented from becoming sugary.
27. The acids most commonly used for this purpose are cream of tartar, acetic acid, vinegar, which has acetic acid for its
basis, and lemon juice, which has citric acid for its basis. With each pound of sugar, it will be necessary to use 1/8
teaspoonful of cream of tartar, 1 or 2 drops of acetic acid, or 1 tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon juice in order to prevent
crystallization. Lemon juice and vinegar are much more likely to flavor the candy than are cream of tartar and acetic acid.
Often, if a fine-grained creamy candy is desired, a small amount of one of these acids is used. Even in small quantities,
they will prevent the coarse-grained crystallization that is the natural result of the cooking and stirring of the cane sugar
when nothing is done to prevent it.
FOOD MATERIALS
28. In addition to the ingredients already mentioned, there are a number of materials that may be used in the making of
candy to provide food value and at the same time give variety and improve the flavor and appearance of the candy. Chief
among these materials are coconut, cocoa, chocolate, nuts, candied and dried fruits, milk, cream, butter, etc. Their value
in candy depends on their use, so it is well to understand their nature and the methods of using them.
29. COCONUT.--Either shredded or ground coconut is often used in candy to give it flavor or variety. Coconut for this
purpose may be secured in a number of forms. A coconut itself may be purchased, cracked open to remove the flesh,
and then prepared either by grating it or by grinding it. This will be found to be very delicious and preferable to any other
kind. However, if it is not desired to prepare the coconut in the home, this material may be purchased shredded in boxes
or in cans. That which comes in boxes is usually somewhat dry and is often found to be quite hard. The canned varieties
remain soft, since the shredded coconut is mixed with the milk of the coconut, but these have the disadvantage of not
keeping very well. Any coconut that becomes too dry for use may be softened by steaming it.
30. COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.--In the making of confections, cocoa and chocolate are used extensively for both
flavoring and coating. Either of them may be used for flavoring purposes, but chocolate is always preferable, because it
has a richer, deeper flavor than cocoa. Bitter chocolate should be used in preference to any kind of sweet chocolate.
When it is to be cooked with candy for flavoring, it may be added to the other ingredients in pieces and allowed to melt
during the cooking. It is often used without cooking, however, as when it is added to material that is to be used as
centers for bonbons or opera creams. In such an event, it is first melted over steam or hot water and then worked into the
candy.
31. When desired for coating, chocolate that is sweetened is usually employed, although many persons are fond of
creams that have a bitter coating. Sometimes a bitter-sweet coating, that is, a slightly sweetened chocolate, is used, and
for most purposes a coating of this kind is preferred. Such chocolate must usually be purchased from a store where
confectioner's supplies are sold or from a candy-making establishment. Milk chocolate and very sweet coatings may also
be purchased for coating, but the eating chocolate that is sold in bars will not produce satisfactory results, and so should
never be used for coating purposes.
32. CANDIED AND DRIED FRUITS.--Many varieties of candied or crystallized fruits and flowers find a place in the
making of confections. Sometimes they are used as an ingredient, while other times they are added to bonbons and
chocolates merely for decorative purposes. Again, they are often used in boxes of fancy candies that are packed to sell
at some special event or to give away. They are somewhat expensive to purchase, but if they are properly used they add
such an appetizing touch and produce such gratifying and delightful results that the expenditure for them is well justified.
Many of these may be prepared in the home with a certain degree of satisfaction.
33. The two candied fruits most frequently used are candied pineapple and candied cherries, but, in addition to these
candied apricots, peaches, pears, limes, lemons, and oranges are often found in the market. Cherries preserved in
maraschino wine and creme de menthe add attractive touches of color to candies and make delicious confections when
coated with bonbon cream or chocolate.
34. Crystallized violets, rose petals, and mint leaves are used frequently in the preparation of confections. They are
added merely for decoration and make very attractive candies. They can usually be purchased in confectionery stores.
35. Several varieties of dried fruits, chief among which are dates, figs, and raisins, are useful in the making of
confections. They have the advantage of not requiring complicated manipulation, and at the same time they lend
themselves to a number of delicious confections that may often be eaten by persons who cannot eat anything so rich as
candy. Children can usually partake of confections made of these fruits without harm when candy would disagree with
them.
36. NUTS.--Nuts of various kinds probably have more extensive use in the making of confections than any other class of
foods. In fact, there are few kinds of candy that cannot be much improved by the addition of nuts. Halves of such nuts as
English walnuts and pecans are frequently used by being pressed into the outside of bonbons and chocolates. Then,
too, pieces of various kinds of nuts are used with a filling for coated candies. Such nuts as almonds, filberts, walnuts,
and peanuts are often covered singly or in clusters with the same chocolate coating that is used to coat creams.
Pistachio nuts, which are light green in color, are either chopped or used in halves on chocolates or bonbons.
37. When nuts are not desired whole for confections, they should never be put through a food chopper; rather, they
should always be broken up by being cut or chopped with a knife. The simplest way in which to cut them is to spread the
nuts in a single layer on a board and then with a sharp knife press down on them, having one hand on the back of the
knife near the point and the other on the handle and rocking the knife back and forth across the nuts until they are as
fine as desired. They may also be chopped in a chopping bowl or cut one at a time with a small, sharp knife.
38. Salted nuts, while not a confection in the true sense of the word, are closely related to confections, since they are
used for the same purpose. For this reason, it seems advisable to give the methods of preparing them in connection with
the preparation of confections.
39. POP CORN.--An excellent confection and one that always appeals to children may be made from pop corn. This
variety of Indian corn has small kernels with or without sharp points. To prepare it for confections; the kernels, or grains,
are removed from the ears and then exposed to heat in a corn popper or a covered pan. When they become sufficiently
hot, they pop, or explode; that is, they rupture their yellow coat and turn inside out. The popped kernels may be eaten in
this form by merely being salted or they may be treated with various sugar preparations in the ways explained later.
40. MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER.--Milk is extensively used in the making of candy, both to obtain a certain flavor and
to secure a particular consistency. Skim milk may be used for this purpose, but the richer the milk, the better will be the
flavor of the finished candy. Cream, of course, makes the most delicious candy, but as it is usually expensive, it greatly
increases the cost of the confection. Butter may be used with milk to obtain a result similar to that secured by the use of
cream. If skim milk is used, butter should by all means be added, for it greatly improves the flavor of the candy. In any
recipe requiring milk, condensed or evaporated milk may be substituted with very satisfactory results. These milks may
be diluted as much as is desired.
Besides providing flavor, milk, cream, and butter add food value to the confections in which they are used. Most of this is
in the form of fat, a food substance that is not supplied by any other ingredients, except perhaps chocolate and nuts.
They are therefore particularly valuable and should always be used properly in order that the most good may be derived
from them.
41. The chief problem in the use of milk is to keep it from curding and, if curding takes place, to prevent the curds from
settling and burning during the boiling. When maple sirup, molasses, or other substances that are liable to curdle milk are
to be cooked with the milk, a little soda should be added or, if possible, the milk should be heated well before it is put in.
When it can be done, the milk should be cooked with the sugar before the ingredients likely to make it curdle are added.
In case the milk does curdle, the mixture should be treated at once, or the result will be very unsatisfactory. The best
plan consists in beating the mixture rapidly with a rotary egg beater in order to break up the curds as fine as possible,
and then stirring it frequently during the boiling to keep the milk from settling and burning. As this stirring is a
disadvantage in the making of candy, every precaution should be taken to prevent the curding of the milk.
When candy is cooked long enough to form a soft ball , it can just be gathered together and held in the fingers. If it is held
for any length of time, the warmth of the fingers softens it greatly and causes it to lose its form. This test is used for
candies, such as soft-center cream. It will be found that when candy boiled to this degree is finished, it can scarcely be
handled.
The firm ball is the stage just following the soft ball. It will keep its shape when held in the fingers for some time. This is
the test for fudge, bonbon creams, and similar candies that are creamed and are expected to be hard and dry enough to
handle when they are finished.
To form a hard ball , candy must be cooked longer than for the firm ball. At this stage, the ball that is formed may be
rolled in the finger tips. It is not so hard, however, that an impression cannot be made in it with the fingers. It is the test
for caramels, soft butter scotch, sea foam, and many other candies.
A brittle ball is the result of any temperature beyond 256 degrees up to the point where the sugar would begin to burn. It
is hard enough to make a sound when struck against the side of the cup or to crack when an attempt is made to break it.
This is the test that is made for taffy and other hard candies.
FINISHING CANDIES
66. The treatment through which candy mixtures are put after being cooled varies with the kind of candy being made.
Some mixtures, as fudge, are beaten until creamy in the pan in which they are cooked. Others are worked on a platter or
a slab with the proper kind of utensil. These are usually treated in a rather elaborate way, being often coated with
bonbon cream or with chocolate. Still others, such as taffy, are pulled until light in color and then cut into small pieces
with a pair of scissors. Again, certain candies, after being poured into a pan, are allowed to become hard and then cut
into squares or broken into pieces. Usually candies made in the home are served without being wrapped, but when
certain varieties are to be packed, it is advisable to wrap them. Directions for finishing confections in these different ways
are here given.
67. MARKING AND CUTTING CANDIES.--Much of the success of certain candies depends on their treatment after
being cooled. Those which must be beaten in the pan until they are creamy should be beaten just as long as possible.
Then, if the surface is not smooth when they are poured out, pat it out with the palm of the hand after the candy has
hardened a little. As soon as it has hardened sufficiently to remain as it is marked and not run together, mark it in pieces
of the desired size, using for this purpose a thin, sharp knife. Be careful to have the lines straight and the pieces even in
size. Generally, candy that is treated in this manner is cut into squares, although it may be cut into other shapes if
desired.
68. COATING CANDIES WITH BONBON CREAM.--When especially nice candy is desired for a special occasion, it is
often made into small pieces and then coated with bonbon cream. A large number of the centers to be coated should be
made up before the coating is begun. In fact, if it is possible, all the centers should be made first and then the coating
can proceed without interruption. The cream to be used for coating may be flavored or colored in any desirable way. Any
flavoring or coloring that is to be used, however, should be added while the cream is melting.
69. To coat with bonbon cream, put the cream in a double boiler without any water and allow it to melt with as little
stirring as possible. It is best to use a small double boiler for this purpose and not to melt too much of the cream at one
time, as it is apt to become grainy if it is used too long for dipping. When it has melted to the extent that the coating will
not be too thick after it has cooled, the dipping of the candies may begin. As soon as it is found that no more centers can
be dipped in the cream, melt some fresh cream for the remaining centers, but do not add it to that which has been used
before. Instead, use the first up as closely as possible and then drop the remainder by spoonfuls on waxed paper. With
all of it used, wash and dry the inner pan of the double boiler and start again with a fresh lot of the cream.
70. To coat the centers, drop one at a time into the melted cream and turn over with a coating fork or an ordinary table
fork. When the surface is entirely covered, lift out of the cream with the fork and allow any superfluous coating to drip off.
Then drop the coated bonbons on waxed paper, to cool. While this work may prove a little difficult at first, it can be done
with dexterity after a little practice. If an effort is made to have the centers uniform in size and shape, the finished candies
will have the same appearance. While the cream is soft, tiny pieces of candied fruit or nuts may be pressed into the
coating to decorate the bonbons.
71. COATING WITH CHOCOLATE.--Candies coated with chocolate are always desirable; so it is well for any one who
aspires toward confection making to become proficient in this phase of the work. The centers should, of course, be
prepared first and put in a convenient place on the table where the coating is to be done. They may be made in any
desired size and shape.
If it is possible to secure a regular coating chocolate, this should be obtained, for it produces better results than does a
chocolate that can be prepared. However, unless one lives in a place where confectioner's supplies are on sale, it is
almost impossible to purchase a chocolate of this kind. In such an event, a substitute that will prove very satisfactory for
candy to be eaten in the home and not to be sold may be made as follows:
COATING CHOCOLATE
4 oz. milk chocolate
2 oz. bitter chocolate
1/2 oz. paraffin
To prepare the chocolate, put all the ingredients in a double boiler and allow them to melt, being careful that not a single
drop of water nor other foreign substance falls into the mixture. Do not cover the boiler, for then the steam will condense
on the inside of the cover and fall into the chocolate. As this will spoil the chocolate so that it cannot be used for coating,
the pan in which the chocolate is melted should always be allowed to remain open. The paraffin used helps to harden
the chocolate after it is put on the centers; this is a particular advantage at any time, but especially when chocolates are
made in warm weather.
72. When the chocolate HAS COMPLETELY MELTED, dip some of it into a small bowl or other dish or utensil having a
round bottom and keep the rest over the heat so that it will not harden. With a spoon, beat that which is put into the bowl
until it is cool enough to permit the fingers being put into it. Then work it with the fingers until all the heat is out of it and it
begins to thicken. It may be tested at this point by putting one of the centers into it. If it is found to be too thin, it will run
off the candy and make large, flat edges on the bottom. In such an event, work it and cool it a little more. When it is of the
proper thickness, put the centers in, one at a time, and, as shown in Fig. 2, cover them completely with the chocolate and
place them on waxed paper or white oilcloth to harden. As they harden, it will be found that they will gradually grow dull.
No attempt whatever should be made to pick up these candies until they are entirely cold. This process is sometimes
considered objectionable because of the use of the bare hands, but chocolate coating cannot be so successfully done in
any other way as with the fingers. Therefore, any aversion to this method should be overcome if good results are
desired.
[Illustration: FIG. 2]
73. When the chocolate begins to harden in the bowl and consequently is difficult to work with, add more of the hot
chocolate from the double boiler to it. It will be necessary, however, to beat the chocolate and work it with the fingers
each time some is added, for otherwise the coating will not be desirable. So as to overcome the necessity of doing this
often, a fairly large amount may be cooled and worked at one time. Care should be taken to cover each center
completely or its quality will deteriorate upon standing. With conditions right, the centers of chocolates and bonbons
should soften and improve for a short time after being made, but chocolate-coated candies will keep longer than
bonbons, as the coating does not deteriorate.
[Illustration: FIG. 3]
[Illustration: FIG. 4]
74. WRAPPING CANDIES.--Such candies as caramels, certain kinds of taffies, and even chocolates are often wrapped
in waxed paper, especially if they are to be packed in boxes. When this is to be done, cut the paper into pieces of the
proper size and then wrap each piece separately. The best way to prepare the paper is to fold several sheets until they
are the desired size and then, as in Fig. 3, cut them with a sharp knife. If a pair of scissors is used for this purpose, they
are apt to slip and cut the paper crooked. The method of wrapping depends on the candy itself. Caramels are wrapped in
square pieces whose ends are folded in neatly, as in Fig. 4, while taffy in the form of kisses is rolled in the paper and the
ends are twisted to fasten the wrapping.
75. TAFFY is probably one of the simplest candies that can be made. Indeed, if candy of this kind is boiled long enough,
it is almost impossible to have unsatisfactory results. Taffies are usually made from white sugar, but a variety of flavors
may be obtained by the use of different ingredients and flavors. For instance, molasses is used for some taffies, maple
sirup for others, and brown sugar for others, and all of these offer an opportunity for variety. Then, again, taffy made from
white sugar may be varied by means of many delightful colors and flavors. Melted chocolate or cocoa also makes a
delightful chocolate-flavored taffy. Recipes for all of these varieties are here given, together with a number of recipes for
closely related confections, such as butter scotch, glacé nuts and fruits, peanut brittle, and nut bars.
76. METHODS OF TREATING TAFFY.--Taffy may be poured out in a pan, allowed to become entirely cold, and then
broken into irregular pieces for serving, or it may be pulled and then cut in small pieces with a pair of scissors. If it is to
be pulled, it should be poured from the pan in which it is cooked into flat pans or plates and set aside to cool. As soon as
it is cool enough to handle, it may be taken from the pans and pulled. It will be found that the edges will cool and harden
first. These should be pulled toward the center and folded so that they will warm against the center and form a new
edge. If this is done two or three times during the cooling, the candy will cool evenly and be ready to take up into the
hands. The pulling may then begin at once. If it has been cooked enough, it will not stick to the hands during the pulling.
It is usually wise, however, to take the precaution of dusting the hands with corn starch before starting to pull the candy.
Grease should never be used for this purpose. When taffy is made in quantities, the work of pulling it is greatly lessened
by stretching it over a large hook fastened securely to a wall.
CARAMELS
87. NATURE OF CARAMELS.--Caramels are included among the popular candies, and they may be made in many
varieties. To plain vanilla caramels, which are the simplest kind to make, may be added any desirable color or flavor at
the time they are removed from the fire. To keep caramels from crystallizing after they are boiled, glucose in some form
must be used, and the most convenient kind to secure is corn sirup. Then, too, caramels will cut more easily and will
have less of a sticky consistency if a small piece of paraffin is boiled with the mixture. The addition of this material or any
wax that is not a food is contrary to the pure-food laws, and such candy cannot be sold. However, paraffin is not harmful,
but is merely a substance that is not digested, so that the small amount taken by eating candy in which it is used cannot
possibly cause any injury.
88. In the making of caramels, it should be remembered that good results depend on boiling the mixture to just the right
point. If they are not boiled enough, they will be too soft to retain their shape when cut, and if they are cooked too long,
they will be brittle. Neither of these conditions is the proper consistency for caramels. To be right, they must be boiled
until a temperature of 246 to 248 degrees is reached. However, chocolate caramels need not be boiled so long, as the
chocolate helps to harden them.
89. PLAIN CARAMELS.--The accompanying recipe for plain caramels may be made just as it is given, or to it may be
added any flavoring or coloring desired. A pink color and strawberry flavor are very often found in caramels and are
considered to be a delicious combination. As will be noted, white sugar is called for, but if more of a caramel flavor is
preferred, brown sugar may be used instead of white. Maple sugar may also be used in candy of this kind. Nuts, fruits, or
coconut, or any mixture of these materials, improves plain caramels wonderfully. If they are used, they should be stirred
into the mixture at the time it is removed from the fire.
PLAIN CARAMELS
3 c. milk
3 c. sugar
1-1/2 c. corn sirup
The milk used for making caramels should be as rich as possible; in fact, if cream can be used, the candy will be very
much better. Add half of the milk to the sugar and sirup and put over the fire to cook. Allow this mixture to boil until a soft
ball will form when dropped in water, stirring when necessary to prevent burning. Then gradually add the remaining milk
without stopping the boiling if possible. Cook again until a temperature of 248 degrees will register on the thermometer or
a fairly hard ball will form when tried in water. In the water test, the ball, when thoroughly cold, should have exactly the
same consistency as the finished caramels. Toward the end of the boiling, it is necessary to stir the mixture almost
constantly to prevent it from burning. When done, pour it out on a buttered slab or some other flat surface and allow it to
become cool. Then cut the candy into squares from 3/4 to 1 inch in size, cutting with a sliding pressure, that is, bearing
down and away from you at the same time.
If the caramels are to be packed or kept for any length of time, it is well to wrap them in waxed paper. Before attempting
to use caramels, however, they should be allowed to stand overnight in a cool, dry place, but not in a refrigerator.
90. CHOCOLATE CARAMELS.--When chocolate caramels are made, the chocolate should be added just before the
cooking is finished. The amount of chocolate to be used may be varied to suit the taste, but 2 squares are usually
considered sufficient for the quantities given in the accompanying recipe.
CHOCOLATE CARAMELS
1 c. molasses or 1 c. maple sirup
1/2 c. corn sirup
2 c. sugar
1 pt. milk
2 Tb. butter
2 sq. chocolate
Pinch of salt
1 tsp. vanilla
Cook the molasses or maple sirup, the corn sirup, and the sugar with 1 cupful of the milk until the mixture will form a soft
ball in cold water. Then add the remainder of the milk and cook until the mixture is thick. Add the butter, chocolate, and
salt, and cook until a hard ball will form in cold water or a temperature of 248 degrees is reached, stirring constantly to
prevent burning. Add the vanilla, pour on a buttered surface, cool, cut, and serve.
CREAM CANDIES
NATURES OF CREAM CANDIES
91. There are numerous varieties of cream candies, some of which must be made with great care while others may be
made quickly and easily. For instance, fudge, penuchie, divinity, and sea foam are examples of cream candies that do
not require long preparation, but these must generally be used up quickly, as they do not stay soft upon exposure to the
air unless it is very moist. On the other hand, such cream candies as opera cream, fondant, center cream, and orientals
require both care and time in their preparation. If these are properly looked after, they may be kept for some time. In fact,
it is necessary that some of them stand for several days before they can be made into the numerous varieties to which
they lend themselves.
The main point to consider in the preparation of all cream candies is that crystallization of the sugar, which is commonly
called graining, must be prevented if a creamy mixture is to be the result. Candies of this kind are not palatable unless
they are soft and creamy. However, no difficulty will be experienced in preparing delicious cream candies if the principles
of candy making previously given are applied.
MISCELLANEOUS CONFECTIONS
114. STUFFED DATES.--Dates from which the seeds have been removed and which have been filled with nuts or
fondant or a combination of both are a confection that meets with much favor. The uncooked fondant is entirely
satisfactory for this purpose, but if some of the other is on hand it will make an especially fine confection. Regardless of
what is used for a filling, though, the preparation of such dates is the same.
First wash the dates in warm water and rinse them in cold water. Then, if there is time, spread them out in a single layer
on a cloth and let them remain until they are entirely dry. Cut a slit in the side of each one with a knife and remove the
seed. If nuts, such as English walnuts, are to be used for the filling, place half a nut meat in the cavity left by the seed
and press the date together over it. In case fondant and nuts are to be used, chop the nuts and mix them with the
fondant. Coconut may be used in place of the nuts if desired or the fondant may be used alone. Shape the fondant into
tiny balls, press one tightly into the cavity left by the seed, and close the date partly over the filling. When all the dates
have been stuffed, roll them in sugar, preferably granulated, and serve.
115. SALTED NUTS.--Nuts to which salt has been added are an excellent contrast to the sweet confections that have
been described. At social gatherings, luncheons, dinners, etc., they are often served in connection with some variety of
bonbon and many times they replace the sweet confection entirely. Peanuts and almonds are the nuts generally used for
salting. If peanuts are to be salted, the unroasted ones should be purchased and then treated in exactly the same way as
almonds. Before nuts are salted, they must first be browned, and this may be accomplished in three different ways: on
the top of the stove, in the oven, and in deep fat. Preparing them in deep fat is the most satisfactory method, for by it all
the nuts reach the same degree of brownness.
116. First blanch the nuts by pouring boiling water over them and allowing them to remain in the water until the skins can
be removed; then slip off the skins without breaking the nuts apart if possible. Spread the nuts out on a towel to dry.
If the deep-fat method of browning them is to be followed, have in a small saucepan or kettle a sufficient quantity of
cooking fat or oil.
[Illustration: FIG. 17]
Allow it to become as hot as for frying doughnuts or croquettes, place the nuts in a sieve, and fry them in the fat until they
become a delicate brown. Pour them out into a pan, sprinkle them with salt, cool, and serve.
To brown nuts on top of the stove, heat a heavy frying pan over a slow fire and into it put a small amount of fat. Add the
nuts and stir constantly until they are browned as evenly as possible. This part of the work requires considerable time,
for the more slowly it is done the less likely are the nuts to have burned spots. Salt the nuts before removing them from
the pan, turn them out into a dish, cool, and serve.
It is more difficult to brown nuts equally by the oven method, but sometimes it is desired to prepare them in this way. Put
the nuts with a little fat into a pan and set the pan in a hot oven. Stir frequently until they are well browned, salt, cool, and
serve.
117. ORIENTAL DELIGHT.--An excellent confection that can be prepared without cooking is known as oriental delight. It
is composed of fruit, nuts, and coconut, which are held together with egg white and powdered sugar. When thoroughly
set and cut into squares, oriental delight appears as in Fig. 17.
ORIENTAL DELIGHT
1/2 lb. dates
1/2 lb. raisins
1/2 lb. pressed figs
1/2 c. shredded coconut
1/2 c. English walnuts
1 egg white
Powdered sugar
Wash all the fruits, put them together, and steam for about 15 minutes. Then put these with the coconut and nuts through
a food chopper or chop them all in a bowl with a chopping knife. When the whole is reduced to a pulpy mass, beat the
egg white slightly, add sufficient sugar to make a very soft paste, and mix with the fruit mixture. If it is very sticky,
continue to add powdered sugar and mix well until it is stiff enough to pack in a layer in a pan. Press down tight and
when it is set mark in squares, remove from the pan, and serve as a confection.
118. MARSHMALLOWS.--To be able to make marshmallows successfully is the desire of many persons. At first thought,
this seems somewhat of a task, but in reality it is a simple matter if the directions are carefully followed. Upon being cut
into squares, the marshmallows may be served plain or they may be coated with chocolate or, after standing several
days, dipped into a warm caramel mixture.
MARSHMALLOWS
8 tsp. gelatine
1-1/4 c. water
2 c. sugar
Few grains salt
1 tsp. vanilla
1/2 Tb. corn starch
Soak the gelatine in one-half of the water for 5 minutes. Cook the sugar and the remaining water until it will spin a thread
when dropped from a spoon. Remove from the fire and add the gelatine. When partly cold, add the salt and the flavoring.
Beat with an egg whip, cooling the mixture as rapidly as possible, until it is light and fluffy. When the mixture is thick, add
the corn starch slowly, working it in thoroughly. Then pour out on a flat surface that is well dusted with confectioner's
sugar. Let stand in a cool place until thoroughly chilled. Cut in squares by pressing the blade of a knife down through the
mass, but do not slide it along when cutting. Remove the pieces, dust on all sides with powdered sugar, and serve.
119. NOUGAT.--The confection known as nougat consists usually of a paste filled with chopped nuts. Both corn sirup
and honey are used in the preparation of this candy. Generally it is merely flavored with vanilla, but if chocolate flavoring
is preferred it may be added.
NOUGAT
3 c. sugar
1-1/2 c. corn sirup
1/4 c. strained honey
1 c. water
2 egg whites
1 tsp. vanilla
2 c. nut meats
Put the sugar, corn sirup, honey, and water together and cook until a temperature of 260 degrees is reached or a brittle
ball will form in water. Beat the egg whites stiff and pour the mass slowly into them, beating constantly until the mixture
grows stiff and waxy. Then add the vanilla and nut meats. Mix well and pour into a small box or pan lined with waxed
paper. If chocolate is to be used for flavoring, add the desired amount just before pouring the mixture into the pan. When
it has cooled sufficiently, cut in squares or slices.
120. CANDIED PEEL.--Another favorite confection and one that is much used in connection with candies for social
functions is candied orange, lemon, and grapefruit peel. After being removed from the fruit, the peel should be well
scraped and then cut into thin strips. In this form, it is ready to coat with sirup.
CANDIED PEEL
1/2 doz. lemons, oranges, or grapefruit
1/2 c. water
1 c. sugar
Remove the skin in quarters from the fruit, scrape off as much of the white as possible, and cut each piece of skin into
narrow strips. Put these to cook in cold water, boil them until they may be easily pierced with a fork, and then drain off
the water. Add the water to the sugar and cook until a thread will form when the sirup is dropped from a spoon. Add the
cooked peel to the sirup and cook for 5 to 10 minutes. Drain and dredge in granulated sugar. Spread in a single layer to
dry.
121. POP-CORN BALLS.--Pop corn in any form is always an attractive confection, especially to young persons. It is
often stuck together with a sirup mixture and made into balls. In this form, it is an excellent confection for the holiday
season.
To make pop-corn balls, first shell the corn and pop it. Then make a sirup with half as much water as sugar and cook it
until it will spin a thread. Have the pop corn in a large bowl and pour the sirup over it, working quickly so that all the sirup
can be used up while it is warm. To form the balls, take up a large double handful and press firmly together. If the sirup
sticks to the hands, dip them into cold water so as to moisten them somewhat before the next handful is taken up. Work
in this manner until all the corn is made into balls.
122. CRACKER JACK.--Another pop-corn confection that is liked by practically every one is cracker jack. In this variety,
pop corn and peanuts are combined and a sirup made of molasses and sugar is used to hold them together.
CRACKER JACK
4 qt. popped corn
1 c. shelled, roasted peanuts
1 c. molasses
1/2 c. sugar
Put the popped corn and the peanuts together in a receptacle large enough to hold them easily. Cook the molasses and
the sugar until the sirup spins a thread. Then pour this over the popped corn and peanuts and mix well until it becomes
cold and hard.
SERVING CANDY
123. The best time to serve candy is when it will interfere least with the digestion, and this is immediately after meals. A
dish of candy placed on the table with the dessert adds interest to any meal. It should be passed immediately after the
dessert is eaten.
Various kinds of bonbon dishes in which to serve candies are to be had, some of them being very attractive. Those
having a cover are intended for candy that is to be left standing for a time, while open dishes should be used for serving.
Fig. 18 shows candy tastefully arranged on a silver dish having a handle. Dishes made of glass or china answer the
purpose equally as well as silver ones, and if a bonbon dish is not in supply a small plate will do very well. A paper or a
linen doily on the dish or plate adds to the attractiveness, as does also the manner in which the candy is arranged.
[Illustration: FIG. 18: candies arranged on silver dish.]
CONFECTIONS
EXAMINATION QUESTIONS
BEVERAGES
BEVERAGES IN THE DIET
NATURE AND CLASSES OF BEVERAGES
1. Throughout the lifetime of every person there is constant need for solid food to preserve health and prolong life; and,
just as such food is necessary to satisfy the requirements of the body, so, too, is there need for water. As is well known,
the composition of the body is such that it contains more liquid than solid material, the tissues and the bones weighing
much less than the liquid. A tremendous amount of this liquid is continually being lost through the kidneys, through each
pore in the skin, and even through every breath that is exhaled, and if continued good health is to be maintained this loss
must be constantly made up. This loss is greater in very hot weather or in the performance of strenuous exercise than
under ordinary conditions, which accounts for the fact that more than the usual amount of liquid must be supplied during
such times. So necessary is liquid refreshment that the body cannot exist without it for any great length of time. In fact, if
the supply were cut off so that no more could be obtained, the body would begin to use its own fluids and death would
soon occur. A person can live for many days without solid food, but it is not possible to live for more than a very few days
without drink.
2. Nature's way of serving notice that the body is in need of liquid refreshment is through the sensation of thirst.
Satisfying thirst not only brings relief, but produces a decidedly pleasant sensation; however, the real pleasure of
drinking is not experienced until one has become actually thirsty.
The various liquids by which thirst may be slaked, or quenched, are known as beverages. The first one of these given to
man was water, and it is still the chief beverage, for it is used both alone and as a foundation for numerous other
beverages that are calculated to be more tasty, but whose use is liable in some cases to lead to excessive drinking or to
the partaking of substances that are injurious to health.
3. The beverages that are in common use may be placed in three general classes: alcoholic, stimulating, and non-
stimulating. The alcoholic beverages include such drinks as beer, wine, whisky, etc., some of which are used more in
one country than in another. In fact, almost every class of people known has an alcoholic beverage that has come to be
regarded as typical of that class. Alcoholic fermentation is supposed to have been discovered by accident, and when its
effect became known it was recognized as a popular means of supplying a beverage and some stimulation besides.
Under stimulating beverages come tea, coffee, and cocoa. These are in common use all over the world, certain ones, of
course, finding greater favor in some countries than in others. With the exception of cocoa, they provide very little food
value. In contrast with these drinks are the non-stimulating beverages, which include fruit punches, soft drinks, and all
the milk-and-egg concoctions. These are usually very refreshing, and the majority of them contain sufficient nourishment
to recommend their frequent use.
WATER IN BEVERAGES
4. Many persons restrict the term beverages, contending that it refers to refreshing or flavored drinks. It should be
remembered, however, that this term has a broader meaning and refers to any drink taken for the purpose of quenching
thirst. Water is the simplest beverage and is in reality the foundation of nearly all drinks, for it is the water in them that
slakes thirst. Flavors, such as fruit juice, tea, coffee, etc., are combined with water to make the beverages more tempting,
and occasionally such foods as eggs, cream, and starchy materials are added to give food value; but the first and
foremost purpose of all beverages is to introduce water into the system and thus satisfy thirst.
5. KINDS OF WATER.--Inasmuch as water is so important an element in the composition of beverages, every one
should endeavor to become familiar with the nature of each of its varieties.
SOFT WATER is water that contains very little mineral matter. A common example of soft water is rainwater.
HARD WATER is water that contains a large quantity of lime in solution. Boiling such water precipitates, or separates,
some of the lime and consequently softens the water. An example of the precipitation of lime in water is the deposit that
can be found in any teakettle that has been used for some time.
MINERAL WATER is water containing a large quantity of such minerals as will go in solution in water, namely, sulphur,
iron, lime, etc.
DISTILLED WATER is water from which all minerals have been removed. To accomplish this, the water is converted into
steam and then condensed. This is the purest form of water.
CARBONATED WATER is water that has had carbon-dioxide, or carbonic-acid, gas forced into it. The soda water used
at soda fountains is an example of this variety. Carbonated water is bottled and sold for various purposes.
6. NECESSITY FOR PURE WATER.--The extensive use made of water in the diet makes it imperative that every effort
be exerted to have the water supply as pure as possible. The ordinary city filter and the smaller household filter can be
depended on to remove sand, particles of leaves, weeds, and such foreign material as is likely to drop into the water
from time to time, but they will not remove disease germs from an unclean supply. Therefore, if there is any doubt about
water being pure enough to use for drinking purposes, it should be boiled before it is used. Boiling kills any disease
germs that the water may contain, but at the same time it gives the water a very flat taste because of the loss of air in
boiling. However, as is mentioned in Essentials of Cookery, Part 1, the natural taste may be restored by beating the
boiled water with an egg beater or by partly filling a jar, placing the lid on, and shaking it vigorously.
ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES
9. ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES are made by allowing yeast to ferment the starch or the sugar in a certain kind of food,
thus producing acid and alcohol. Grains and fruits are used oftenest for this purpose. In some cases, the fermentation is
allowed to continue long enough to use up all the starch or sugar in the material selected, and in this event the resulting
beverages are sour and contain a great deal of alcohol. In others, the fermentation is stopped before all the sugar or
starch is utilized, and then the beverage is sweet and contains less alcohol. The higher the percentage of alcohol a
beverage contains, the more intoxicating it is and the more quickly will a state of intoxication be reached by drinking it.
10. HARMFUL EFFECTS OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES.--In years past, alcoholic beverages were considered to be a
necessity for medicinal purposes in hospitals and in homes, but this use of them has been very greatly decreased. In
fact, it is believed by most authorities that often more harm than good is done by using alcoholic beverages as a medical
stimulant or as a carrier for some drug. As these drinks are harmful in this respect, so are they detrimental to health when
they are taken merely as beverages. It is definitely known that alcohol acts as a food when it enters the body, for it is
burned just as a carbohydrate would be and thus produces heat. That this action takes place very rapidly can be
detected by the warmth that is produced almost immediately when the drink is taken. Some of it is lost through the breath
and the kidneys without producing heat, and it also acts upon the blood vessels near the skin in such a way as to lose
very quickly the heat that is produced. It is never conserved and used gradually as the heat from food is used. The taking
of alcohol requires much work on the part of the kidneys, and this eventually injures them. It also hardens the liver and
produces a disease known as hob-nailed, or gin, liver. In addition, if used continuously, this improper means of
nourishing the body produces an excessive amount of fat. Because of these harmful effects on the various organs, its too
rapid loss from the body, and the fact that it does not build tissue, alcohol is at best a very poor food and should be
avoided on all occasions.
11. KINDS OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES.--In spite of the truth that beverages containing alcohol are found to be
harmful, many of them are in common use. Following are the names of these, together with a short account of their
preparation:
BEER is an alcoholic beverage made from certain grains, usually barley, by malting the grain, boiling the product with
hops, and finally fermenting it with yeast. The malting of grains, it will be remembered, is explained in Cereals. The hops
are used to give the beer a desirable flavor. This beverage is characterized by a low percentage of alcohol, containing
only 2 to 5 per cent., and consequently is not very intoxicating.
WINE is a beverage that is usually made from grapes, although berries and other small fruits are occasionally used. It
contains from 7 to 16 per cent. of alcohol and is therefore more intoxicating than beer. The wines in which all of the sugar
is fermented are known as sour, or dry, wines, while those in which not all of the sugar has been fermented are called
sweet wines. Many classes of wines are made and put on the market, but those most commonly used are claret, sherry,
hock, port, and Madeira.
BRANDY is an alcoholic liquor distilled from wine. It is very intoxicating, for it consists of little besides alcohol and water,
the percentage of alcohol varying from 40 to 50 per cent. Upon being distilled, brandy is colorless, but it is then stored in
charred wooden casks, from which it takes its characteristic color.
GIN is a practically colorless liquor distilled from various grains and flavored with oil of juniper or some other flavoring
substance, such as anise, orange peel, or fennel. It contains from 30 to 40 per cent. of alcohol. It is usually stored in
glass bottles, which do not impart a color to it.
RUM is an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting cane sugar, molasses, cane juice, or the scum and waste from sugar
refineries and then distilling the product. It contains from 45 to 50 per cent. of alcohol, and has a disagreeable odor when
it is distilled. This odor, however, is removed by storing the rum in wooden receptacles for a long period of time.
CORDIALS are beverages made by steeping fruits or herbs in brandy. Absinthe, which is barred from the United States
because it contains wormwood, a very injurious substance, is a well-known cordial. Besides being extremely intoxicating,
it overstimulates the heart and the stomach if taken in even comparatively small quantities.
WHISKY is an alcoholic beverage obtained by distilling fermented grain several times until it has a strength of 40 to 50
per cent. of alcohol. Then it is flavored and stored in charred casks to ripen and become mellow, after which it has a
characteristic color. As can readily be understood, distilled liquors contain the highest percentage of alcohol.
STIMULATING BEVERAGES
NATURE OF STIMULATING BEVERAGES
12. STIMULATING BEVERAGES are those which contain a drug that stimulates the nervous and the circulatory system;
that is, one that acts on the nerves and the circulation in such a way as to make them active and alert. Common
examples of these beverages are coffee, tea, and cocoa or chocolate. If the nerves are in need of rest, it is dangerous to
stimulate them with such beverages, for, as the nervous system indirectly affects all the organs of the body, the effects of
this stimulation are far-reaching. The immediate effect of the stimulant in these beverages is to keep the drinker awake,
thus causing sleeplessness, or temporary insomnia. If tea and coffee are used habitually and excessively, headaches,
dull brains, and many nervous troubles are liable to result.
13. The stimulant that is found in the leaves of tea is known as theine; that found in coffee beans, caffeine; and that
found in cacao beans, from which cocoa and chocolate are made, theobromine. Each of these stimulants is extracted by
the hot liquid that is always used to make the beverage. It is taken up by the liquid so quickly that the method used to
prepare the beverage makes little difference as to the amount obtained. In other words, tea made by pouring water
through the leaves will contain nearly as much of the stimulant as tea made by boiling the leaves.
14. In addition to the stimulant, tea and coffee contain tannin, or tannic acid, an acid that is also obtained from the bark
of certain trees and used in the tanning of animal hides in the preparation of leather. Tannin is not taken so quickly from
tea and coffee by the hot liquid used in preparing the beverage as is the stimulant, so that the longer tea leaves and
coffee grounds remain in the liquid, the more tannic acid will be drawn out. This fact can be detected by the bitter flavor
and the puckery feeling in the mouth after drinking tea that has been allowed to remain on the leaves or coffee that has
stood for some time on the grounds. Tannic acid has a decidedly bad effect on the digestion in the stomach, so that if
improperly prepared tea or coffee is indulged in habitually, it may cause stomach disorders.
TABLE I
STIMULANT AND TANNIC ACID PRESENT IN STIMULATING BEVERAGES
Quantity of Quantity of
Beverage Stimulant Stimulant Tannic Acid
Grains Grains
Coffee Caffeine 2 to 3 1 to 2
Tea Theine 1 to 2 1 to 4
Cocoa or chocolate Theobromine 1 to 1-1/2 1/2 to 1
15. The quantity of stimulant and tannic acid contained in an ordinary cup of tea, coffee, and cocoa or chocolate is given
in Table I. As this table shows, the quantity, which is given in grains, does not vary considerably in the different
beverages and is not present in such quantity as to be harmful, unless these beverages are indulged in to excess.
To reduce the quantity of caffeine contained in coffee has been the aim of many coffee producers. As a result, there are
on the market a number of brands of coffee that have been put through a process that removes practically all the
caffeine. The beverage made from coffee so treated is less harmful than that made from ordinary coffee, and so far as
the flavor is concerned this loss of caffeine does not change it.
16. Neither tea nor coffee possesses any food value. Unless sugar or cream is added, these beverages contain nothing
except water, flavor, stimulant, and tannic acid. Chocolate and cocoa, however, are rich in fat, and as they are usually
made with milk and sugar they have the advantage of conveying food to the system. Because of their nature, tea and
coffee should never be given to children. Cocoa and chocolate provide enough food value to warrant their use in the diet
of young persons, but they should not be taken in too great quantity because of the large amount of fat they contain. Any
of these beverages used in excessive amounts produces the same effect as a mild drug habit. Consequently, when a
person feels that it is impossible to get along without tea or coffee, it is time to stop the use of that beverage.
COFFEE
HISTORY AND PRODUCTION OF COFFEE
17. COFFEE is the seed of the coffee tree, which in its wild state grows to a height of 20 feet, but in cultivation is kept
down to about 10 or 12 feet for convenience in gathering the fruit. Coffee originated in Abyssinia, where it has been used
as a beverage from time immemorial. At the beginning of the 15th century, it found its way into Arabia, where it was used
by the religious leaders for preventing drowsiness, so that they could perform religious ceremonies at night. About 100
years later it came into favor in Turkey, but it was not until the middle of the 17th century that it was introduced into
England. Its use gradually increased among common people after much controversy as to whether it was right to drink it
or not. It is now extensively grown in India, Ceylon, Java, the West Indies, Central America, Mexico, and Brazil. The last-
named country, Brazil, furnishes about 75 per cent. of the coffee used in the United States and about 60 per cent. of the
world's supply.
18. Coffee is a universal drink, but it finds more favor in some countries than others. The hospitality of a Turkish home is
never thought to be complete without the serving of coffee to its guests; however, the coffee made by the Turks is not
pleasant except to those who are accustomed to drinking it. As prepared in Turkey and the East, a small amount of
boiling water is poured over the coffee, which is powdered and mixed with sugar, and the resulting beverage, which is
very thick, is served in a small cup without cream. The French make a concoction known as café an lait, which, as
explained in Essentials of Cookery, Part 2, is a combination of coffee and milk. These two ingredients are heated
separately in equal proportions and then mixed before serving. This is a very satisfactory way in which to serve coffee if
cream cannot be obtained.
19. OBTAINING THE COFFEE SEEDS.--The seeds of the coffee tree are enclosed in pairs, with their flat surfaces
toward each other, in dark, cherry-like berries. The pulp of the berry is softened by fermentation and then removed,
leaving the seeds enclosed in a husk. They are then separated from the husks by being either sun-dried and rolled or
reduced to a soft mass in water with the aid of a pulping machine. With the husks removed, the seeds are packed into
coarse cloth bags and distributed.
20. ROASTING THE COFFEE BEANS.--The next step in the preparation of coffee for use is the roasting of the coffee
beans. After being separated from the husks, the beans have a greenish-yellow color, but during the roasting process,
when they are subjected to high temperature and must be turned constantly to prevent uneven roasting, they turn to a
dark brown. As the roasting also develops the flavor, it must be done carefully. Some persons prefer to buy unroasted
coffee and roast it at home in an oven, but it is more economical to purchase coffee already roasted. In addition, the
improved methods of roasting produce coffee of a better flavor, for they accomplish this by machinery especially devised
for the purpose.
21. GRINDING THE COFFEE BEANS.--During the roasting process there is developed an aromatic volatile oil, called
caffeol , to which the flavor of the coffee is due. This oil is very strong, but upon being exposed to the air it passes off and
thus causes a loss of flavor in the coffee. For this reason, roasted coffee should be kept in air-tight cans, boxes, or jars.
Before it is used, however, it must be ground. The grinding of the coffee beans exposes more surface and hence the
flavor is more quickly lost from ground than unground coffee. Because of this fact and because ground coffee can be
adulterated very easily, it is not wise to buy coffee already ground. If only a small quantity is bought at a time and it can
be used up at once, the grinding may be done by the grocer, but even in such a case the better plan is to grind it
immediately before using it.
22. The method by which the coffee is to be prepared for drinking will determine to a large extent the way in which the
coffee beans must be ground. When coffee is to be made by a method in which the grounds are not left in the water for
any length of time, the beans must be ground very fine, in fact, pulverized, for the flavor must be extracted quickly. For
other purposes, such as when it is to be made in a percolator, the beans need not be ground quite so fine, and when it is
to be made in an ordinary coffee pot they may be ground very coarse.
23. For use in the home, simple coffee mills that will grind coffee as coarse or as fine as may be desired are to be had.
Fig. 1 shows two of the common types of home coffee mills.
[Illustration: FIG. 1]
The one shown in (a) is fastened to a board so that it can be attached to the wall. The coffee to be ground is put in the
chamber a, from which it is fed to the grinding rolls, and the ground coffee drops into the chamber b. The grinding rolls
are adjusted to the desired fineness by the notched arrangement on the end of the shaft.
The coffee mill shown in (b) may be placed on a table top or some other flat surface, but it operates on the same
principle as the other. The coffee beans are placed in the chamber at the top, and the ground coffee drops into the
drawer a at the bottom. The adjustment of the grinding rolls is regulated by the notched head at the end of the vertical
shaft.
24. ADULTERATION OF COFFEE.--As in the case of numerous other foods, attempts are often made to adulterate
coffee. Since the Pure Food Laws have been enforced, there is not so much danger of adulteration in a product of this
kind; still, every housewife should be familiar with the ways in which this beverage may be reduced in strength or quality,
so that she may be able to tell whether she is getting a good or an inferior product for her money.
Coffee may be adulterated in a number of ways. Ground coffee is especially easy to adulterate with bread crumbs, bran,
and similar materials that have been thoroughly browned. Many of the cheaper coffees are adulterated with chicory, a
root that has a flavor similar to that of coffee and gives the beverages with which it is used a reddish-brown color.
Chicory is not harmful; in fact, its flavor is sought by some people, particularly the French. The objection to it, as well as
to other adulterants, is that it is much cheaper than coffee and the use of it therefore increases the profits of the dealer.
The presence of chicory in coffee can be detected by putting a small amount of the ground coffee in a glass of water. If
chicory is present, the water will become tinged with red and the chicory will settle to the bottom more quickly than the
coffee.
PREPARATION OF COFFEE
25. SELECTION OF COFFEE.--Many varieties of coffee are to be had, but Mocha, Java, and Rio are the ones most
used. A single variety, however, is seldom sold alone, because a much better flavor can be obtained from blend coffee,
by which is meant two or more kinds of coffee mixed together.
It is usually advisable to buy as good a quality of coffee as can be afforded. The more expensive coffees have better
flavor and greater strength than the cheaper grades and consequently need not be used in such great quantity. It is far
better to serve this beverage seldom and to have what is served the very best than to serve it so often that a cheap
grade must be purchased. For instance, some persons think that they must have coffee for at least two out of three daily
meals, but it is usually sufficient if coffee is served once a day, and then for the morning or midday meal rather than for
the evening meal.
After deciding on the variety of coffee that is desired, it is well to buy unground beans that are packed in air-tight
packages. Upon receiving the coffee in the home, it should be poured into a jar or a can and kept tightly covered.
26. NECESSARY UTENSILS.--Very few utensils are required for coffee making, but they should be of the best material
that can be afforded in order that good results may be had. A coffee pot, a coffee percolator, and a drip pot, or coffee
biggin, are the utensils most frequently used for the preparation of this beverage.
[Illustration: FIG. 2]
27. If a COFFEE POT is preferred, it should be one made of material that will withstand the heat of a direct flame. The
cheapest coffee pots are made of tin, but they are the least desirable and should be avoided, for the tin, upon coming in
contact with the tannic acid contained in coffee, sometimes changes the flavor. Coffee pots made of enamelware are the
next highest in price. Then come nickel-plated ones, and, finally, the highest-priced ones, which are made of aluminum.
The usual form of plain coffee pot is shown in Fig. 2.
[Illustration: FIG. 3]
28. PERCOLATORS are very desirable for the making of coffee, for they produce excellent results and at the same time
make the preparation of coffee easy. Those having an electric attachment are especially convenient. One form of
percolator is shown in Fig. 3. In this percolator, the ground coffee is put in the filter cup a and the water in the lower part
of the pot b. The water immediately passes into the chamber c, as shown by the arrows. In this chamber, which is small,
it heats rapidly and then rises through the vertical tube d. At the top e, it comes out in the form of a spray, strikes the
glass top, and falls back on a perforated metal plate f, called the spreader. It then passes through this plate into the filter
cup containing the grounds, through which it percolates and drops into the main chamber. The circulation of the water
continues as long as sufficient heat is applied, and the rate of circulation depends on the degree of heat.
29. The DRIP POT, or coffee biggin, as it is sometimes called, one type of which is shown in Fig. 4, is sometimes
preferred for the making of coffee. This utensil is made of metal or earthenware and operates on the same principle as a
percolator. The ground coffee is suspended above the liquid in a cloth bag or a perforated receptacle and the water
percolates through it.
[Illustration: FIG. 4]
30. In case a more complicated utensil than any of those mentioned is used for the making of coffee, the directions that
accompany it will have to be followed. But no matter what kind of utensil is selected for the preparation of coffee, it
should be thoroughly cleaned each time it is used. To clean it, first empty any coffee it contains and then wash every part
carefully and scald and dry it. If the utensil is not clean, the flavor of the coffee made in it will be spoiled.
31. METHODS OF MAKING COFFEE.--Several methods are followed in the making of coffee, the one to select
depending on the result desired and the kind of utensil to be used. The most common of these methods are: boiling,
which produces a decoction; infusion, or filtration, which consists in pouring boiling water over very finely ground coffee
in order to extract its properties; and percolating, in which boiling water percolates, or passes through, finely ground
coffee and extracts its flavor. For any of these methods, soft water is better than water that contains a great deal of lime.
Many times persons cannot understand why coffee that is excellent in one locality is poor in another. In the majority of
cases, this variation is due to the difference in the water and not to the coffee. From 1 to 2 tablespoonfuls of coffee to 1
cupful of water is the usual proportion followed in making coffee.
32. BOILED COFFEE.--Without doubt, coffee is more often boiled in its preparation than treated in any other way.
Usually, an ordinary coffee pot is all that is required in this method of preparation. The amount of ground coffee used
may be varied to obtain the desired strength.
BOILED COFFEE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 c. cold water
1/2 c. ground coffee
3 c. boiling water
After scalding the coffee pot, put 1/2 cupful of the cold water and the ground coffee into it. Stir well and then add the
boiling water. Allow it to come to the boiling point and boil for 3 minutes. Pour a little of the coffee into a cup to clear the
spout of grounds, add the remaining cupful of cold water, and put back on the stove to reheat, but not to boil. When hot,
serve at once. Never allow the liquid to stand on the grounds for any length of time, for the longer it stands the more
tannic acid will be drawn out.
33. As coffee made by boiling is usually somewhat cloudy, it may be cleared in one way or another. The last cold water is
added for this purpose, for as it is heavier than the warm liquid it sinks to the bottom and carries the grounds with it.
Coffee may also be cleared by stirring a small quantity of beaten raw egg, either the white or the yolk, or both, into the
grounds before the cold water is added to them. One egg will clear two or three potfuls of coffee if care is exercised in its
use. What remains of the egg after the first potful has been cleared should be placed in a small dish and set away for
future use. A little cold water poured over it will assist in preserving it. If the egg shells are washed before the egg is
broken, they may be crushed and added to the grounds also, for they will help to clear the coffee. The explanation of the
use of egg for this purpose is that it coagulates as the coffee heats and carries the particles of coffee down with it as it
sinks.
34. Another very satisfactory way in which to make boiled coffee is to tie the ground coffee loosely into a piece of
cheesecloth, pour the boiling water over it, and then let it boil for a few minutes longer than in the method just given.
Coffee prepared in this manner will be found to be clear and therefore need not be treated in any of the ways mentioned.
35. FILTERED COFFEE.--When it is desired to make coffee by the filtering process, the coffee must be ground into
powder. Then it should be made in a drip, or French, coffee pot. If one of these is not available, cheesecloth of several
thicknesses may be substituted. The advantage of making coffee by this method is that the coffee grounds may
sometimes be used a second time.
FILTERED COFFEE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1/2 c. powdered coffee
1 qt. boiling water
Place the coffee in the top of the drip pot, pour the boiling water over it, and allow the water to drip through into the
vessel below. When all has run through, remove the water and pour it over the coffee a second time. If cheesecloth is to
be used, put the coffee in it, suspend it over the coffee pot or other convenient utensil, and proceed as with the drip pot.
36. PERCOLATED COFFEE.--The coffee used for percolated coffee should be ground finer than for boiled coffee, but
not so fine as for filtered coffee. This is perhaps the easiest way in which to prepare coffee and at the same time the
surest method of securing good coffee.
PERCOLATED COFFEE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1/2 c. finely ground coffee
1 qt. cold water
Place the coffee in the perforated compartment in the top of the percolator and pour the cold water in the lower chamber.
As the water heats, it is forced up through the vertical tube against the top. It then falls over the coffee and percolates
through into the water below. This process begins before the water boils, but the hotter the water becomes the more
rapidly does it percolate through the coffee. The process continues as long as the heat is applied, and the liquid
becomes stronger in flavor as it repeatedly passes through the coffee. When the coffee has obtained the desired
strength, serve at once.
37. AFTER-DINNER COFFEE.--After a rather elaborate meal, a small cup of very strong, black coffee is often served.
To prepare after-dinner coffee, as this kind is called, follow any of the methods already explained, but make it twice as
strong as coffee that is to accompany the usual meal. Sugar and cream may be added to after-dinner coffee, but usually
this coffee is drunk black and unsweetened.
38. VIENNA COFFEE.--An especially nice way in which to serve coffee is to combine it with boiled milk and whipped
cream. It is then known as Vienna coffee. The accompanying directions are for just 1 cup, as this is prepared a cupful at
a time.
VIENNA COFFEE
(Sufficient to Serve One)
1/4 c. boiled milk
3 Tb. whipped cream
1/2 c. hot filtered coffee, or coffee prepared by any method
Place the boiled milk in a cup, add the whipped cream, and fill the cup with the hot coffee.
39. ICED COFFEE.--Persons fond of coffee find iced coffee a most delicious hot-weather drink. Iced coffee is usually
served in a glass, as shown in Fig. 5, rather than in a cup, and when whipped cream is added an attractive beverage
results.
To prepare iced coffee, make coffee by any desired method, but if the boiling method is followed be careful to strain the
liquid so that it is entirely free from grounds. Cool the liquid and then pour into glasses containing cracked ice. Serve with
plain cream and sugar or with a tablespoonful or two of whipped cream. If desired, however, the cream may be omitted
and the coffee served with an equal amount of milk, when it is known as iced café au lait.
40. LEFT-OVER COFFEE.--The aim of the person who prepares coffee should be to make the exact quantity needed,
no more nor no less, and this can usually be done if directions are carefully followed. However, if any coffee remains
after all are served, it should not be thrown away, as it can be utilized in several ways. Drain the liquid from the grounds
as soon as possible so that the flavor will not be impaired.
[Illustration: FIG. 5]
If desired, left-over coffee may be added to fresh coffee when it is prepared for the next meal or, in hot weather, it may be
used for iced coffee. It may also be used to flavor gelatine, which, when sweetened and served with whipped cream,
makes an excellent dessert. Again, left-over coffee is very satisfactory as a flavoring for cake icing, for custards, or for
whipped cream that is to be served with desserts. When coffee is desired for flavoring, it should be boiled in order to
evaporate some of the water. Very good cake is made by using left-over coffee for the liquid and spices for the flavoring.
SERVING COFFEE
41. The serving of coffee may be done in several ways, but, with the exception of iced coffee, this beverage should
always be served as hot as possible. As can well be imagined, nothing is more insipid than lukewarm coffee. Therefore,
coffee is preferably made immediately before it is to be served. Sugar and cream usually accompany coffee, but they
may be omitted if they are not desired.
Coffee may be served with the dinner course, with the dessert, or after the dessert. When it is served with the dinner
course or the dessert, a coffee cup or a tea cup of ordinary size is used; but when it is served after the dessert, a demi-
tasse, or small cup that holds less than half the amount of the other size, is preferable. Usually, after-dinner coffee, or
café noir, as such black coffee is called, rather than coffee with cream and sugar, is served after the dessert course of a
heavy dinner because it is supposed to be stimulating to the digestion.
The pouring of coffee may be done at the table or in the kitchen. If it is done at the table, the person serving should ask
those to be served whether or not they desire cream and sugar, and then serve accordingly. If it is done before the
coffee is brought to the table, the cream and sugar should be passed, so that those served may help themselves to the
desired amount. Care should always be taken in the serving of coffee not to fill the cup so full that it will run over or that it
will be too full to handle easily when the cream and sugar are added.
TEA
HISTORY AND PRODUCTION OF TEA
42. TEA consists of the prepared leaves or leaf buds of a plant known as the tea plant and is used as one of the three
stimulating beverages. This plant is grown in China, Japan, India, Ceylon, and the East Indies, and to a small extent in
South Carolina. There are two distinct varieties of tea, and each one may be used for the preparation of either green or
black tea. The leaves of the tea plant, which are what is used for making the beverage, are gathered four times a year
from the time the plants are 4 years old until they are 10 or 12 years old. Then the plants are pulled up and new ones
planted. Upon being gathered, the leaves are put through a series of processes before they are ready for use. During
this treatment, various modifications of flavor are developed and the leaves are changed in color to black or green,
depending on the process used.
43. It is surprising to most persons to learn that tea was known in China for many years before people began to make a
beverage of it. The first record of its use as a beverage was probably in the 6th century, when an infusion of tea leaves
was given to a ruler of the Chinese Empire to cure a headache. A century later, tea had come into common use as a
beverage in that country. As civilization advanced and new countries were formed, tea was introduced as a beverage,
and today there is scarcely a locality in which it is not commonly used.
44. CLASSIFICATION OF TEA AS TO QUALITY.--The position of the leaf on the tea plant determines the quality of the
tea. The farther from the top, the coarser are the leaves and the poorer is the quality. On the other hand, the smaller the
leaves and the nearer the top, the better is the quality. In the very best qualities of tea, the buds of the plant are included
with the tiny top leaves.
45. Tea that is raised in China is graded in a particular way, and it will be well to understand this grading. The top buds
are used entirely for a variety known as flowery pekoe, but this is seldom found in our markets. The youngest leaves
next to the buds are made into a tea called orange pekoe; the next older leaves are used for pekoe; the third, for
souchong first; the fourth, for souchong second; the fifth, for congou; and if there is another leaf, it is made into a tea
known as bohea. Sometimes the first three leaves are mixed, and when this is done the tea is called pekoe. If they are
mixed with the next two, the tea is called souchong pekoe. The laws controlling the importation of tea require that each
shipment be tested before it passes the custom house, to determine whether or not it contains what the label claims for it.
46. VARIETIES OF TEA.--The teas that are put on the market are of two general varieties, black tea and green tea. Any
quality of tea or tea raised in any country may be made into these two kinds, for, as has been mentioned, it is the method
of preparation that is accountable for the difference. A number of the common brands of tea are blends or mixtures of
green and black tea. These, which are often called mixed teas, are preferred by many persons to the pure tea of either
kind.
47. BLACK TEA is made by fermenting the tea leaves before they are dried. This fermentation turns them black and
produces a marked change in their flavor. The process of preparation also renders some of the tannin insoluble; that is,
not so much of it can be dissolved when the beverage is made. Some well-known brands of black tea are China congou,
or English breakfast, Formosa, oolong, and the various pekoes. The English are especially fond of black tea, and the
people of the United States have followed their custom to the extent that it has become a favorite in this country.
48. GREEN TEA is made by steaming the leaves and then drying them, a process that retains the green color. With tea
of this kind, all fermentation of the leaves is carefully avoided. Some familiar kinds of green tea are hyson, Japan, and
gunpowder. The best of these are the ones that come from Japan.
PREPARATION OF TEA
49. SELECTION OF TEA.--In the course of its preparation, tea is rolled either into long, slender pieces or into little balls.
Knowing this, the housewife should be able to detect readily the stems and other foreign material sometimes found in
teas, especially the cheaper varieties. Such teas should be avoided, for they are lacking not only in flavor but also in
strength. If economy must be practiced, the moderately expensive grades will prove to be the best ones to buy.
50. METHODS OF MAKING TEA.--Upon steeping tea in hot water, a very pleasant beverage results. If this is properly
made, a gentle stimulant that can be indulged in occasionally by normal adults without harmful results can be expected.
However, the value of tea as a beverage has at all times been much overestimated. When it is served as afternoon tea,
as is frequently done, its chief value lies in the pleasant hospitality that is afforded by pouring it. Especially is this the
case in England, where the inhabitants have adopted the pretty custom of serving afternoon tea and feel that guests
have not received the hospitality of the home until tea has been served. Through their continued use of this beverage,
the English have become expert in tea making.
51. The Russians are also adepts so far as the making of tea is concerned. They use a very good kind of tea, called
caravan tea, which is packed in lead-covered packages and brought to them by caravans. This method of packing and
delivery is supposed to have a ripening effect on the leaves and to give them an unusually good flavor. For making tea,
the Russians use an equipment called a samovar. This is an urn that is constantly kept filled with boiling water, so that
tea can be served to all visitors or callers that come, no matter what time of day they arrive.
52. Most persons, however, make tea into a beverage by steeping it in boiling water or by placing it in a tea ball or some
similar utensil and then allowing it to stand in boiling water for a short time. Whichever method of preparation is followed,
the water must be at the boiling point and it must be freshly boiled. Water that has been boiled for any length of time
becomes very insipid and flat to the taste and affects the flavor of the tea. Tea leaves that have been used once should
never be resteeped, for more tannin is extracted than is desirable and the good tea flavor is lost, producing a very
unwholesome beverage. As a rule, 1 to 1-1/2 teaspoonfuls of tea to 1 cupful of water is the proportion followed in tea
making.
53. STEEPED TEA.--When tea is to be steeped, a teapot is used. That the best results may be secured, the teapot
should always be freshly scalded and the water freshly boiled.
STEEPED TEA
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 Tb. tea
1 qt. boiling water
Scald the teapot. Put the tea into the teapot and pour the boiling water over it. Let stand on the back of the stove for 3
minutes, when a beverage of sufficient strength will be formed. Strain the beverage from the tea leaves and serve at
once.
[Illustration: FIG. 6]
54. AFTERNOON TEA.--When tea is desired for afternoon serving or when it is to be prepared at the table, a tea ball is
the most satisfactory utensil to use. This is a perforated silver or aluminum ball, such as shown in Fig. 6, which opens by
means of a hinge and into which the tea is placed. For convenience in use, a chain is attached to the ball and ends in a
ring that is large enough to slip over the finger. Some teapots contain a ball attached to the inside of the lid and
suspended inside the pot. Utensils of this kind are very convenient, for when the tea made in them becomes strong
enough, the leaves may be removed without pouring off the tea.
To prepare afternoon tea with a tea ball, put 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls of tea in the ball, fasten it securely, and place it in a cup.
Then pour enough freshly boiled water over the ball to fill the cup to the desired height. Allow the ball to remain in the
water until the desired strength is attained and then remove it. If more than 2 or 3 persons are to be served, it will be
necessary to refill the ball.
55. ICED TEA.--Perhaps one of the most refreshing drinks for warm weather is iced tea. A tea that is especially blended
for this purpose and that is cheaper in price than other tea may be purchased. Slices of lemon or crushed mint leaves
add much to the flavor of the tea and are often served with it.
Prepare tea by steeping it, but make it double strength. Strain it from the leaves and allow it to become cool. Then pour it
into glasses containing cracked ice. Serve with sugar and slices of lemon or mint leaves.
56. LEFT-OVER TEA.--Tea that remains after all persons are served need not be wasted if it is poured off the leaves at
once. Such tea is satisfactory for iced tea, or it may be combined with certain fruit juices in the preparation of various
cold beverages. However, there are not many satisfactory uses for left-over tea; so it is best to take pains not to make
more than will be required for one time.
SERVING TEA
[Illustration: FIG. 7]
57. Tea may be served as an accompaniment to meals or with small sandwiches, dainty cakes, or macaroons as an
afternoon ceremony. If it is served with meals and is poured at the table, the hostess or the one pouring asks those to be
served whether they desire sugar and cream and then uses these accompaniments accordingly. In the event that it is
brought to the table poured, the sugar and cream are passed and those served may help themselves to what they desire.
Lemon adds much to the flavor of tea and is liked by most persons. A dish of sliced lemon may be passed with the cream
and sugar or placed where the hostess may add it to the tea. The Russians, who are inveterate tea drinkers, prepare this
beverage by putting a slice of lemon in the cup and then pouring the hot tea over it. If this custom is followed, the lemons
should be washed and sliced very thin and the seeds should be removed from the slices. The flavor may also be
improved by sticking a few cloves in each slice of lemon; or, if the clove flavor is desired, several cloves may be put in
the teapot when the tea is made. Fig. 7 shows slices of lemons ready to be served with tea. Some of them, as will be
observed, have cloves stuck in them.
Lemon is almost always served with iced tea, for it adds a delightful flavor. If it is not squeezed into the glass, it should be
cut into quarters or eighths lengthwise and then cut across so that small triangular pieces are formed. These are much
easier to handle than whole slices.
[Illustration: FIG. 8]
58. In the serving of afternoon tea, the pouring of the tea is the main thing, and the remainder of the service simply
complements this pleasant ceremony. Tiny sandwiches, small cakes, or macaroons usually accompany the tea, while
such confections as candied orange peel, stuffed dates, or salted nuts are often served also. When sandwiches are
used, they may be merely bread-and-butter sandwiches or they may contain marmalade or any desired filling. The
principal requirement is that they be made as small and thin as possible, so that they will be extremely dainty in
appearance.
59. A tea cozy is a convenient device to use when tea is served from the pot. It consists of a padded cap, or cover, that
may be slipped over the teapot to prevent the heat from escaping after the tea is infused. It is made of several
thicknesses of material in a shape and size that will slip over the teapot easily and can then be removed when the tea is
to be poured. This can be made very attractive by means of a nicely embroidered cover.
60. Fig. 8 shows an attractive table that may be used for serving tea. The top folds over vertically, so that when the table
is not in use it may be disposed of by placing it against the wall of a room. This table holds nothing except the pot
containing the tea, which must be made in the kitchen and placed in the pot before it is brought to the table, the sugar
and cream, the teacups, and the lemon. Sandwiches, wafers, or cakes that are to be served with the tea should be
passed to the guests.
[Illustration: FIG. 9]
61. Fig. 9 shows a tea wagon and the equipment for making tea, with the sandwiches and cakes to be served arranged
on a muffin stand, or Lazy Susan. When tea is to be made with an equipment of this kind, the water is heated in the little
kettle by means of the alcohol burner. The can with the long spout contains an extra supply of alcohol with which to keep
the burner filled. The tea ball, which is in the little glass, is filled with tea and the boiling water is poured over it into each
cup. The ball is allowed to remain until the tea is of the desired strength, when it is removed and used for another cup,
provided sufficient strength remains in the tea leaves.
The silver tea caddy at the back of the wagon contains the tea, and lemon with a fork for serving it is on a small plate
near the front of the wagon. Napkins and plates for the cakes and sandwiches are on the lower part of the wagon. The
napkins and plates are first passed; then the tea is served with the sandwiches, after which cakes are served.
NON-STIMULATING BEVERAGES
CEREAL BEVERAGES
76. NON-STIMULATING BEVERAGES are those which contain neither stimulant nor alcohol. They are the ones usually
depended on to carry nutrition into the body and to provide the necessary refreshment. In this class of beverages come
the various cereal beverages, fruit drinks, soft drinks, and milk-and-egg drinks. With the exception of the cereal
beverages, these drinks are of a very refreshing nature, for they are served as cold as possible and they contain
materials that make them very pleasing to the taste. Most of them can be prepared in the home at much less cost than
they can be purchased commercially prepared or at soda fountains; so it is well for the housewife to be familiar with their
nature and their preparation.
77. CEREAL BEVERAGES, as the name implies, are made from cereals. Of these, the cereal coffees are perhaps the
most common. They contain nothing that is harmful, and are slightly beneficial in that they assist in giving the body some
of the necessary liquid. However, they have absolutely no food value and are therefore of no importance in the diet
except to take the place of stimulating beverages that are likely to injure those who drink them. They are made of cereals
to which sugar or molasses is added, and the whole is then baked until the cereals brown and the sugar caramelizes, the
combination producing a flavor much like that of coffee. Plain roasted wheat or bran can be used very well as a
substitute in the making of these beverages. In the parts of the country where rye is extensively grown, it is roasted in the
oven until it is an even brown in color. It is then used almost exclusively by some persons to make rye coffee, a beverage
that closely resembles coffee in flavor.
78. The instantaneous cereal beverages are made by drawing all the flavor possible out of the material by means of
water. The water is then evaporated and the hard substance that remains is ground until it is almost a powder. When
water is added again, this substance becomes soluble instantly. Instantaneous coffee is prepared in the same way. The
way in which to use these beverages depends, of course, on the kind selected, but no difficulty will be experienced in
their preparation, for explicit directions are always found in or on all packages containing them.
FRUIT BEVERAGES
INGREDIENTS FOR FRUIT BEVERAGES
79. FRUIT BEVERAGES are those which contain fruit and fruit juices for their foundation. As there are many kinds of
fruit that can be used for this purpose, almost endless variety can be obtained in the making of these beverages. One of
the important features is that a great deal of nourishment can be incorporated into them by the materials used. In
addition, the acids of fruits are slightly antiseptic and are stimulating to the digestion as well as beneficial to the blood.
80. Lemon juice, when mixed with other fruit juices, seems to intensify the flavor. Because of this fact, practically all the
recipes for fruit beverages include this juice as one of the ingredients. The combination of pineapple and lemon yields a
greater quantity of flavor for beverages, ices, etc. than any other two fruit flavors. Juice may be extracted from all fruits
easily. To obtain lemon juice for a fruit beverage, first soften the fruit by pressing it between the hand and a hard surface,
such as a table top, or merely soften it with the hands. Then cut it in two, crosswise, and drill the juice out, as shown in
Fig. 12, by placing each half over a drill made of glass or aluminum and turning it around and around until all the juice is
extracted. To remove the seeds and pulp, strain the juice through a wire strainer. The juice from oranges and grapefruit,
if they are not too large, may be extracted in the same way.
81. It is not always necessary to extract juices from fresh fruit for fruit beverages; in fact, juice from canned fruit or juice
especially canned for beverage making is the kind most frequently employed. For instance, in the canning of fruit there is
often a large quantity of juice left over that most persons use for jelly. It is a good plan to can this juice just as it is and
then use it with lemon juice or other fruit juices for these beverages. Also, juices that remain after all the fruit has been
used from a can may be utilized in the same way, no matter what the kind or the quantity. In fact, unless otherwise stated
in the recipes that follow, the fruit juices given, with the exception of orange and lemon juice, are those taken from
canned fruit or juices canned especially for beverage making. These juices also lend themselves admirably to various
other uses, for, as has already been learned, they are used in ices, gelatine desserts, salad dressing, pudding sauces,
etc. Therefore, no fruit juice should ever be wasted.
[Illustration: FIG. 12]
82. The clear-fruit beverages become more attractive when they are garnished in some way. A slice of lemon, orange, or
pineapple, or a fresh strawberry put into each glass improves the flavor and makes the beverage more appetizing. Red,
yellow, and green cherries may be bought in bottles and used for such purposes. As these are usually preserved in wine
and are artificially colored, many persons object to their use. A good substitute for them is candied cherries. These can
be bought from any confectioner and do very well when a red decoration is desired.
SOFT DRINKS
93. A class of very popular non-stimulating beverages are the SOFT DRINKS sold at the soda fountains. Many of them
can also be bought in bottles and so may be purchased and served at home. These drinks really consist of carbonated
water and a flavoring material that is either prepared chemically and colored or made of fruit extracts. Sometimes ice
cream is added, and the drink is then called ice-cream soda.
94. Soft drinks include phosphates, ginger ale, coca cola, birch beer, root beer, and various other drinks called mashes,
sours, and freezes. While these are pleasing to the taste and have the advantage of being ready to drink when prepared,
it is advisable not to indulge in them too frequently, because excessive use of them is liable to affect the system.
Besides, beverages that are just as satisfactory as these so far as flavor is concerned and that are made of much better
material can be prepared at home at far less cost. With these drinks, as with other commercially prepared articles of
food, the cost of preparation and service in addition to the cost of materials must be paid for by the consumer.
NOURISHING BEVERAGES
95. Many times it is necessary or desirable to administer food in the form of liquid. When this is to be done, as much
nourishment as possible should generally be incorporated into the beverage. To meet such a need, the following recipes
are presented. In each case, the quantities mentioned make a drink sufficient for only one person, so that if more than
one are to be served the amounts should be multiplied by the number desired. The food materials used in these drinks
are easily digested, and the beverages are comparatively high in food value.
96. At most soda fountains, these nourishing drinks are offered for sale, so that if one does not desire the work of
preparation, they may be obtained at such places. However, as practically all the ingredients are materials used in the
home and are therefore nearly always on hand in most households, drinks of this kind may be prepared at home at much
less cost than when purchased already made. The main thing to remember in their preparation is that the ingredients
should be as cold as possible and that the beverage should be cold when served.
97. The beverages containing eggs may be made in more than one way. They may be mixed in a bowl or an enamelware
dish with a rounded bottom and then beaten with a rotary egg beater, or they may be mixed in a metal shaker designed
especially for this purpose and then shaken thoroughly in that. In drinks of this kind, the point to remember is that the
eggs should be beaten or shaken until they are light and foamy.
98. CHOCOLATE SIRUP.--While chocolate sirup is not a beverage in itself, it is used to such an extent in beverages, as
well as an accompaniment to numerous desserts, that it is well for the housewife to know how to prepare it. It may be
kept an indefinite length of time if it is put into a glass jar and sealed. Here, as in the preparation of other sirups, a
tablespoonful or two of corn sirup or glucose will help to keep the sirup from crystallizing.
CHOCOLATE SIRUP
4 sq. chocolate
1 c. water
3/4 c. sugar
Melt the chocolate in a saucepan, stir in the water, and add the sugar. Boil until a thick sirup is formed.
99. PLAIN MILK SHAKE.--A pleasant variation for milk is the plain milk shake here given. Even those who are not fond
of milk and find it hard to take like it when it is prepared in this way.
PLAIN MILK SHAKE
1 c. milk
2 tsp. sugar
Few drops of vanilla
Dash of nutmeg
Beat all the ingredients together with an egg beater or shake well in a shaker and serve in a glass with cracked ice.
100. EGG MILK SHAKE.--The simplest form of egg drink is the egg milk shake explained in the accompanying recipe.
This is an extremely nutritious drink and is often served to invalids and persons who must have liquid nourishment.
EGG MILK SHAKE
3/4 c. milk
1 egg
1 Tb. sugar
Pinch of salt
Few drops of vanilla
Mix all the ingredients and beat the mixture with a rotary beater or shake it in a shaker. Serve in a glass over cracked ice.
101. EGG CHOCOLATE.--The addition of chocolate to an egg milk shake improves it very much and makes a drink
called egg chocolate.
EGG CHOCOLATE
3/4 c. milk
1 egg
2 Tb. chocolate sirup
Few drops of vanilla
Pinch of salt
Mix all the materials and beat with an egg beater or shake thoroughly in a shaker. Serve in a glass with cracked ice.
102. CHOCOLATE MALTED MILK.--A preparation that is much used in nourishing drinks and that furnishes a great deal
of nutrition is malted milk. This is made from cow's milk and is blended by a scientific process with malted grains. It
comes in powder form and may be purchased in bottles of various sizes. It is well to keep a good brand of malted milk on
hand, as there are various uses to which it can be put.
CHOCOLATE MALTED MILK
3/4 c. milk
1 egg
2 Tb. malted milk
2 Tb. chocolate sirup
Few drops of vanilla
Pinch of salt
Mix and shake in a shaker or beat with a rotary egg beater. Serve in a glass with cracked ice.
103. ORANGE EGG NOG.--The accompanying recipe for egg nog requires orange for its flavoring, but any fruit juice
may be substituted for the orange if desired. Pineapple and apricot juices are exceptionally good.
ORANGE EGG NOG
1/4 c. cream
1/4 c. milk
1 egg
1 Tb. sugar
2 oranges
Mix the cream, milk, egg, and sugar, beat well with an egg beater, and continue beating while adding the juice of the
oranges. Serve in a glass over crushed ice.
104. FOAMY EGG NOG.--An egg nog can be made foamy and light by separating the eggs and beating the yolks and
whites separately. Either cream or milk may be used for this drink, and it may be flavored with vanilla or fruit juice, as
preferred. A small piece of red jelly beaten into the egg white makes this drink very attractive; or, jelly may be used as a
flavoring and beaten with the ingredients.
FOAMY EGG NOG
2 eggs
1 Tb. sugar
1/2 c. cream or milk
2 Tb. fruit juice or 1/2 tsp. vanilla
Separate the yolks and whites of the eggs. Mix the yolks with the sugar, cream or milk, and the fruit juice or vanilla and
beat thoroughly. Beat the whites stiff and fold into the first mixture, retaining a tablespoonful of the beaten white. Pour
into a tall glass, put the remaining white on top, and serve.
BEVERAGES
EXAMINATION QUESTIONS
(1) What is a beverage?
(2) What does boiling do to: (a) hard water? (b) impure water?
(3) What is the value of beverages in the diet?
(4) Mention and define the three classes of beverages.
(5) (a) What are caffeine, theine, and theobromine? (b) Where is each found? (c) What effect do they have on the human
body?
(6) (a) Where is tannic acid found? (b) What effect does it have on the human body?
(7) Tell briefly about the preparation of coffee for the market.
(8) How should coffee be bought?
(9) What are the general proportions of coffee and liquid used in the making of coffee?
(10) What use can be made of left-over coffee?
(11) Tell briefly about the preparation of black and green tea for the market.
(12) What points should be observed in the selection of tea?
(13) What general proportions of tea and water are used for the making of tea?
(14) Tell briefly about the preparation of cocoa and chocolate for the market.
(15) What advantage have cocoa and chocolate over tea and coffee as. articles of food?
(16) What use can be made of left-over cocoa and chocolate?
(17) (a) How are cereal coffees made? (b) Of what value are they?
(18) Of what value are fruit beverages?
(19) What uses can be made of left-over fruit juices?
(20) What good use can be made of nourishing beverages?
PURCHASE OF FOODS
SUCCESSFUL MARKETING
4. The truly economical housewife will find it necessary each day to determine three things: (1) what is left from
yesterday's meals and what use can be made of it; (2) what is in supply that can be used for that day; and (3) what must
be added to these things to provide satisfactory meals for the family. Having determined these points, she should make a
list of the articles that she must purchase when she does her marketing. A pad fastened to the kitchen wall and a pencil
on a string attached to the pad are convenient for this purpose. At the same time, they serve as a reminder that when all
of any article, such as coffee, sugar, baking powder, etc., has been used, a note should be made of this fact. To her list
of supplies that have become exhausted since her preceding marketing day should be added the fresh fruits, vegetables,
and other perishable foods needed for the next day or preferably for the next two days if they can be kept.
5. It is only with proper preparation that the housewife may expect her marketing trips to be successful. If she starts to
market with merely two or three items in mind and then tries to think of what she needs as she orders, not only does she
waste the grocer's time, but her marketing trip will be a failure. After she arrives home, she will find that there are other
things she should have purchased, and the grocer will be forced to make an extra delivery to bring them to her. This is
more than she has a right to expect, for the grocer should not be obliged to pay for her lack of planning.
6. To purchase economically, it is advisable, when possible, to buy at a cash grocery and to pay cash for what is bought.
When this is done, one is not helping to pay the grocer for accounts he is unable to collect. It is a fortunate grocer who is
able to collect 80 per cent. of his bills from his patrons when he conducts his business on the credit plan. However, if it is
desired to deal with a credit grocer, all bills should be paid at least once a month. No customer has a right to expect the
grocer to wait longer than 30 days for his money.
In many of the cities and large towns, some credit grocers have adopted what is called the "cash-and-carry plan." All
customers, whether they buy for cash or on credit, must pay the same price for groceries, but those who wish their goods
delivered must pay additional for delivery and those who buy on credit must pay a certain percentage additional on each
purchase for bookkeeping. It will readily be seen that such a plan gives the cash customers, especially if they carry their
purchases, a decided advantage over credit customers. Also, the grocer is better able to sell his wares at a lower price
than the credit grocer who makes free deliveries and no charge for bookkeeping.
KEEPING HOUSEHOLD ACCOUNTS
7. NECESSITY FOR KEEPING ACCOUNTS.--Practically every family is limited to a definite sum of money that may be
spent for food. The first consideration, then, while it may not be the most important one, is that of making each dollar buy
all that it possibly can in order that the income may meet all the demands upon it. Various conditions arise that affect the
proportion of the income to be used for this purpose. For instance, two women whose husbands have equal incomes
would, under the same conditions, have an equal amount of money to spend for food, but as a rule there is something to
cause this amount to become unequal. One woman may have two children in her family while the other has none, a
condition that means, of course, that the woman with the children will have less money to spend for food and with that
money she must feed more persons. Her family must be, if possible, as well nourished as the other one. In order to
accomplish this task, it will be necessary to supply all the required food material in a form that will cost less than the food
purchased by the woman who has a smaller family to feed and clothe.
An excellent way in which to keep expenses down and consequently to live within one's income is to keep a simple
record of household expenses. Such a record will enable every housewife to determine just what each item of household
necessities costs and whether or not the proportion of cost to income is correct. To keep a record of expenditures will not
prove much of a task if it is done systematically, for a few minutes a day will be sufficient time in which to keep accounts
up to date. However, if account keeping is attempted, it should not be neglected even for a day, for it will soon assume
the proportions of a large task and will have a tendency to discourage the housewife with this part of her work.
8. EQUIPMENT FOR HOUSEHOLD ACCOUNT KEEPING.--For convenience in keeping household accounts, a small
desk like the one shown in Fig. 1 should, if possible, be secured and placed in an unoccupied or convenient corner of
the kitchen. Here can be kept cook books, recipes, suitable books or cards for account keeping, the marketing pad, a file
for bills from the grocer and the butcher, labels for cans and jars, etc. Here may also be placed an extension telephone,
which, by being so convenient, will save the housewife many steps. A white desk with a chair to match is the most
attractive kind to select for kitchen use, but a dark one may be used if preferred. The desk illustrated was a simple
wooden one that was enameled white after it was bought, but it is possible to buy white desks for this purpose. A small,
plain table will, of course, answer very well if no desk is available and it is desired not to buy one.
[Illustration: FIG. 1]
9. METHODS OF HOUSEHOLD ACCOUNT KEEPING.--If the housewife runs a credit account with the grocer, she will
learn that different grocers have different ways of recording her purchases.
In some cases, she is provided with a "store book," which she takes to the grocer each time she makes a purchase and
in which he records the date and the items bought by her. Then at the end of a stated time, usually the end of the month,
when a settlement is to be made, the amounts for the month are totaled and a new account is started. With such a plan,
the housewife does not have to keep any record for herself. To be certain that the grocer's account is accurate, she
simply has to check the entries each time they are made in the book by the grocer.
In other cases, the grocer merely makes out a slip, or bill, for each purchase and at the end of the month presents his
statement for the amount due. In such an event, provided the housewife does not wish to make entries into a suitable
book, she may file the slips as she receives them in order that she may check the grocer's monthly bill as to accuracy. A
bill file like that shown in Fig. 2 is very convenient for the filing of bills. However, if she does not wish to save each slip
she receives, she may adopt one of two methods of account keeping, depending on how much time she has to devote to
this matter.
[Illustration: FIG. 2]
10. If she desires to be very systematic and has sufficient time, it will prove a good plan to record each purchase in a
suitable book in the manner shown in Fig. 3. Books for this purpose can be purchased in any store where stationery is
sold and are not expensive. In this method of recording, as a page becomes filled with items, the total is carried forward
to each new page until the bill is paid at the end of the month. Then, for the next month, a new account may be started.
This same method may also be followed in keeping accounts for meats, milk, and such household expenses as rent,
light, heat, and laundry. All these accounts, together with an account for clothing and one for miscellaneous expense,
make up a complete expense account.