INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wingspan: 41-3/4 in [1060mm]

Wing Area: 368 sq in [23.7 dm2]
Airframe Weight: 11-1/2 oz [326 g]
Weight Ready to Fly: 18-1/2 to 22 oz [525–624g]
Wing Loading: 7.3–8.6 oz/sq ft [22.3–26.2 g/dm2]
Length: 38-1/4 in [972mm]
Radio: 4-channel with three micro servos
Motor: S-280 7.2 volt or 350 size, high power 7.2 volt

WARRANTY

Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. box guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost
of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any
damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all
resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately
in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:

Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
USA

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail
address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as
quickly as possible.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING

CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE
ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL. Champaign, IL
(217) 398-8970, Ext. 5
[email protected]

RV4PP03 V1.0 Entire Contents © Copyright 2004 Printed in USA

 TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION.................................................................................2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS...................................................................2
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Great
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE .........................................................3 Planes RV-4 Park Flyer. The RV-4 Park Flyer is one in a
Radio Equipment.........................................................................3 series of Park Flyers from Great Planes designed to be
Speed Control .............................................................................3 flown in small areas. Park Flyers are a relatively new class
Motor System ..............................................................................3 of small, lightweight, slow-flying, fast-building models. Since
Battery Recommendations..........................................................4 Park Flyers are small and fly slowly, little space is required.
Performance Options ..................................................................4
A nearby park, schoolyard or vacant lot becomes an
Chargers......................................................................................5
Covering ......................................................................................5
impromptu flying site (see “Find a Safe Place to Fly” on
Building Board .............................................................................6 page 36). Additionally, Park Flyers are perfect for those
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED......................................................6 evenings at the field when everybody else is packing up
Hardware & Accessories.............................................................6 their gear, the wind has died, and there is still enough light
Adhesives & Building Supplies....................................................6 to fly a small, slow model that can be kept close-in.
Optional Supplies & Tools ...........................................................6
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES .......................................................6 The RV-4 Park Flyer is a slow flying, low-wing model that is
DIE-CUT PATTERNS..........................................................................8 relatively simple to build. It is a sport scale model of the full
METRIC CONVERSIONS...................................................................8 size RV-4. However, if you have never flown an R/C model
BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS...............................................................9 before, learning to fly the RV-4 Park Flyer all by yourself is
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES ............................................................9
not recommended. As with any airplane, you should find an
BUILD THE WING.............................................................................10
Build the Wing Panels ...............................................................10 experienced modeler to help you with your first flights.
Join the Wing Panels.................................................................13 Information about R/C clubs and instructors is provided
Build the Ailerons ......................................................................14 later in this manual.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE...................................................................16
Frame the Sides ........................................................................16 For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Finish the Fuselage...................................................................18 RV-4 Park Flyer, visit the Great Planes web site at
Install the Pushrods...................................................................24 www.greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then
COVER THE MODEL .......................................................................26 select the RV-4 Park Flyer kit. If there is new technical
Suggested Covering Sequence ................................................26 information or changes to this model a “tech notice” box will
Add Washout .............................................................................26
appear in the upper left corner of the page.
FINAL ASSEMBLY...........................................................................27
Join the Tail Surfaces ................................................................27
Hook Up the Controls................................................................28
Mount the Landing Gear ...........................................................28 PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF
Assemble the Gear Drive ..........................................................29
MOUNT THE CANOPY, COWL & WHEEL PANTS..........................30
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
PREPARE THE MODEL FOR FLYING ............................................32 IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Balance the Model ....................................................................32
Set the Control Throws..............................................................33
PREFLIGHT......................................................................................34
Charge the Transmitter Batteries ..............................................34 1. Even though the Great Planes RV-4 Park Flyer is small,
Identify Your Model ....................................................................34 lightweight and flies slowly, if it is not assembled and
Ground Inspection .....................................................................34 operated correctly it could possibly cause injury to yourself
Range Check.............................................................................34 or spectators and damage to property.
PERFORMANCE TIPS .....................................................................35
Cycle the Batteries ....................................................................35
2. You must assemble the model according to the
Examine the Propeller...............................................................35
Motor Care ................................................................................35 instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
Oil the Wheels ...........................................................................35 may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ..................................................35 the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts).....................................................35 instances the written instructions should be considered
FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY .........................................................36 as correct.
FLYING .............................................................................................36
Takeoff .......................................................................................36
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
Flight..........................................................................................36
Landing......................................................................................37
ROG (Rise off Ground) Takeoff .................................................37 4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
2-VIEW DRAWING ...................................................Back Cover Page condition. This Park Flyer requires micro servos, a micro
FUSELAGE/WING PLAN ...............................Center Pull-Out Section receiver and a micro speed control able to handle 5 amps.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components

so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.
2
6. You must check the operation of the model before every sites to help you get started the right way. Contact the AMA
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the at the address or toll-free phone number below:
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
connectors often and replace them if they show any signs
Academy of Model Aeronautics
of wear or fatigue.
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Tele: (800) 435-9262
7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you Fax (765) 741-0057
should fly the model only with the help of a competent, Or via the Internet at:
experienced R/C pilot. http://www.modelaircraft.org

Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top

quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality
and flyability of your finished model depends on how you DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the This is a list of items required to finish the RV-4 Park Flyer
performance or safety of your completed model. that must be purchased separately. For some of these items
there is more than one option which will require a bit of
decision making ahead of time. Order numbers (in
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end parentheses) are provided for your convenience.
up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
For specific performance package options, see
“Performance Options” later in this discussion.
Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit with the
Parts List, and note any missing parts. Also inspect all parts
to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are Radio Equipment
missing, broken or defective, or if you have any questions
about building or flying this airplane, please contact Great The RV-4 Park Flyer requires a four-channel radio system
Planes at the address or telephone number below. If with a micro receiver and three micro servos. Futaba® S3103
requesting replacement parts, please provide the full kit or S3107 (FUTM0037, FUTM0025) or Hobbico® CS-5
name, RV-4 Park Flyer, and the part numbers as listed in (HCAM0090) micro servos are suitable.
the Parts List.

Speed Control
Great Planes Product Support:
3002 N Apollo Drive Suite 1 An electronic speed control with BEC (Battery Eliminator
Champaign, IL 61822 Circuitry) is required. The BEC allows both the motor and
Telephone: (217) 398-8970 the radio system to be powered by the same battery (thus
Fax: (217) 398-7721 eliminating an additional battery typically required to power
E-mail: [email protected] the radio). Depending on the motor selected, the Great
Planes ElectriFly™ C-10 or C-20 High Frequency Electronic
Speed Control (GPMM2010 or GPMM2020) are recommended
If you’re an inexperienced modeler, we recommend that for the RV-4 Park Flyer.
you get assistance from an experienced,
knowledgeable modeler to help you with assembly and
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your Motor System
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your area
whose membership includes experienced pilots. There are several motor/gearbox/prop/battery combinations
that give good performance with the RV-4 Park Flyer. Many
modelers do not realize that each component in this
In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend combination is important. You can have a good
you join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). AMA motor/gearbox/prop combination, but without the proper
membership is required to fly at AMA sanctioned clubs. There battery, performance could be disappointing.
are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country.
Among other benefits, the AMA provides insurance to its Standard, lower power 280 size motors, such as the Great
members who fly at sanctioned sites and events. Additionally, Planes ElectriFly T-280, are not recommended for the RV-4
training programs and instructors are available at AMA club Park Flyer.
3
The RV-4 Park Flyer also flies well with the Great Planes is 3.7 volts. Batteries are also rated by their capacity in mAh
ElectriFly T-400 Ferrite Motor (GPMG0325). This motor (milli-Amp-hours), or how much energy they store. A 650
should be used with the Great Planes ElectriFly T-400 4.1:1 mAh battery can supply 1 Ampere for .65 hours (about 39
Gearbox (GPMG0226). The best prop is the APC 10 x 4.7 minutes). At a typical average park flyer power requirement
SloFlyer (APCQ5015). You will also need a 3mm prop of 5 Amps, a 650 mAh battery will last about
adapter (GPMQ4600).This combination gives less spirited, 7-1/2 minutes.
but adequate performance, with much cooler motor
temperatures and longer motor lifespan. These are the battery packs recommended for the RV-4
Park Flyer:
The RV-4 Park Flyer flies in a very spirited manner with the
Great Planes ElectriFly S-280 Ferrite Motor (GPMG0305), GPMP0071 – 7-cell, 650 mAh NiMH pack
Great Planes ElectriFly S-280 5.0:1 Gearbox (GPMG0200) GPMP0072 –8-cell, 650 mAh NiMH pack
and APC 10 x 4.7 SloFlyer Prop (APCQ5015). For this GPMP0250 –7-cell, 1050 mAh NiMH pack
combination you will also need a 3mm prop adapter GPMP0251 – 8-cell, 1050 mAh NiMH pack (for 400
(GPMQ4600). With this motor you can also use the Great size motor only)
Planes ElectriFly S-280 4.5:1 Gearbox (GPMG0201) or the KKMP9100 – Kokam 2-cell, 340 mAh Li-Po pack
S-280 4.1:1 Gearbox (GPMG0202). An APC 9 x 6 SloFlyer KKMP7100 – Kokam 2-cell, 1500 mAh Li-Po pack
Prop (APCQ5013) would be a better prop with these KKMP8100 – Kokam 3-cell, 1500 mAh Li-Po pack (for
gearboxes. The Great Planes ElectriFly 8-cell 1050 mAh 400 size motor only)
NiMH Battery (GPMP0251) is not recommended with this
motor as the added run time could cause the motor to Caution: Use extreme caution when using Li-Po batteries
overheat. This is a high power motor and adequate cooling with the S-280 and S-370 motors. Due to the very long run
is important. Be sure to follow the cooling instructions on times these batteries can provide, overheating of these
page 31, steps 11 & 12 of this manual. Allow 10 – 15 minutes motors will occur, resulting in VERY short motor life-spans.
of cooling time between flights.

An even more powerful motor for the RV-4 Park Flyer is the
Great Planes ElectriFly S-370 Ferrite Motor (GPMG0310).
This motor is nearly the same physical size as a 280-size
motor and can be used with the same components
At the time this manual was prepared, Lithium Polymer
recommended above for the S-280 motor. A 20-amp ESC
batteries were becoming popular but were not widely
should be used with this motor and adequate cooling is
used. This model is ideally suited for these Li-Po
critical. It is best to limit this motor to a 7-cell 650 mAh
batteries. In particular, a two or three cell (7.4 or 11.1
battery. With an 8-cell 1050 mAh battery, motor
volt), 1200 mAh or 1500 mAh pack would be ideal for this
temperatures can easily reach 240 degrees, which would
model – providing much longer flight times and
greatly reduce the lifespan of the motor. Be sure to follow
considerably lighter weight of the ready to fly model. The
the cooling instructions on page 31, steps 11 & 12 of this
three cell pack will require careful power management as
manual. Allow 20 minutes of cooling time between flights.
it could easily damage the S-280 or S-370 motors due to
the higher than recommended voltage and capacity of
The RV-4 Park Flyer can be powered with brushless motors
the battery. Full power should be used only for a very
as well. While these motors and their controllers are
limited time, with the majority of the flight at a reduced
expensive, they give outstanding performance with longer
power setting. In addition, the longer run times could
flight times and cooler motor temperatures than the above
cause severe overheating of these motors. Therefore,
ferrite motors.
only a two cell Li-Po battery is recommended for use with
these motors.
Battery Recommendations
Lithium Polymer batteries require a special charger. DO
NOT use a charger designed for other types of batteries.
There are three kinds of battery packs used for electric R/C
models: nickel-metal hydride (NiMH), nickel-cadmium
(NiCd, pronounced ny-cad) and Lithium Polymer (Li-Po).
NiMH and Li-Po batteries are recommended for the RV-4
Park Flyer because they provide from two to six times the
capacity of a NiCd battery of the same size and weight.
However, it should be noted that NiMH and Li-Po cannot be Performance Options
charged as fast as NiCds. Li-Po batteries also require a
special charger. The following performance packages are recommended for
the RV-4 Park Flyer. You may wish to experiment with other
For NiMH and NiCd batteries, each individual cell that combinations to obtain the performance level you find
makes up a battery is 1.2 volts. For a Li-Po battery each cell most enjoyable.
4
Option 1, Good Performance 7. Charge batteries in a well ventilated area.
• T-400 Ferrite Motor (GPMG0325) 8. Charge batteries away from combustible materials.
• T-400 4.1:1 Gearbox (GPMG0226) 9. Charge batteries in an area with smoke and fire detectors.
• 10 x 4.7 SloFlyer Prop (APCQ5015) 10. Do not charge a Lithium battery at a rate higher than 1C.
• C-10 ESC (GPMM2010) 11. Use a charger specifically designed for the type of
• 8-cell, 1050 mAh Battery (GPMP0251) battery being charged.
• 3mm Prop Adapter (GPMQ4600) 12. Do not charge any battery inside a vehicle.
13. Do not wear jewelry or watches when working
Option 2, Spirited Performance with batteries.
• S-280 Ferrite Motor (GPMG0305) 14. Do not put batteries in your pocket.
• S-280 5.0:1 Gearbox (GPMG0200) 15. Never charge batteries unattended.
• 10 x 4.7 SloFlyer Prop (APCQ5015)
• C-10 ESC (GPMM2010) The best type of charger for NiMH and NiCd batteries is a
• 8-cell, 650 mAh Battery (GPMP0072) peak charger, because it charges the batteries until they are
• 3mm Prop Adapter (GPMQ4600) fully charged, then automatically switches to a trickle
charge mode. The Great Planes ElectriFly Peak Charger
Option 3, Ballistic Performance (GPMM3000) is suitable for NiMH and NiCd batteries as
• S-370 Ferrite Motor (GPMG0310) well as transmitter battery packs. The Great Planes Triton
• S-280 5.0:1 Gearbox (GPMG0200) charger (GPMM3150) is also suitable.
• 9 x 6 SloFlyer Prop (APCQ5013)
• C-20 ESC (GPMM2020) The following applies to NiMH and NiCd batteries only:
• 7-cell, 650 mAh Battery (GPMP0071) If you have another type of charger that is not a peak
• 3mm Prop Adapter (GPMQ4600) charger, you will have to calculate the length of time it takes
to charge the batteries yourself, then turn the charger off
Chargers when the batteries are fully charged. Overcharging the
batteries may damage them. Before you can calculate the
If you are using Li-Po batteries it is critical that you use a time it takes to charge a battery pack, you first have to know
battery charger designed specifically for this type of battery. the charge rate you are going to use. Nickel-metal hydrides
Other types of chargers will not work properly and could should be charged at a rate of no more than 1/10 of their
cause the battery to be overcharged, causing it to swell, capacity. For the 650 mAh batteries recommended for the
overheat and rupture – possibly causing a fire if the battery RV-4 Park Flyer, this would be a charge rate of
is being charged near combustible material. If the battery approximately 65 mAh. Divide the capacity of the battery
becomes even warm, disconnect it immediately. NEVER pack by the charge rate to calculate the charge time. A
discharged 650 mAh battery pack charged at 65 mAh will
charge a Li-Po pack unattended. The Great Planes Triton™
charger (GPMM3150) is a suitable charger for Li-Po take 10 hours to charge.
batteries. Warning: Even with the proper charger, the
risk of a fire is much higher with Li-Po batteries, so Charge rate/time recommendations for a fully
always charge these batteries away from combustible discharged pack:
materials and carefully monitor the charge process. • Charge a 650 mAh battery pack at 65 mAh for 10 hours.
• Charge a 1050 mAh battery pack at 100 mAh for 11 hours.
Proper charging of Lithium batteries is very important.
Consult your charger for charge procedures and for IMPORTANT: Monitor the temperature of the battery
precautions to observe. At a minimum these should include: frequently. If the battery becomes warm, disconnect it from
1. If the battery becomes damaged, as in a model crash, the charger.
immediately remove the battery and place it in a remote
area away from combustible materials. Monitor the Note: The period required to charge the batteries in the
battery for at least 20 minutes. If the battery remains examples above is for discharged batteries. If the battery
cool, it is safe to transport. If the battery is physically you are going to charge is not discharged (and you are not
damaged, it should be disposed of. using a peak charger), connect it to the motor on your
2. If a soft sided battery, such as a Li-Po, is dented even model. Run the motor until the propeller is turning slowly,
slightly it should be treated as a damaged battery and thus discharging the battery.
immediately isolated as above.
3. Wear safety glasses when handling damaged batteries.
4. When charging lithium batteries, use a Protective
Charge Module that monitors individual cell voltage.
5. Whenever you charge a Lithium battery, ensure that the Covering
charger is set to the correct number of cells. Double
check the setting, then triple check it! There are several types of covering that may be used on the
6. Do not charge a Lithium battery while it is installed RV-4 Park Flyer, and a few that are not recommended. Use
inside a model. a covering suitable for lightweight models. Top Flite®
5
EconoKote® and Coverite® CoverLite™ are suitable for the
RV-4 Park Flyer. Adhesives & Building Supplies

EconoKote is similar to MonoKote® (used on most regular- The following is a “short list” of the most important building
size sport models), except EconoKote is lighter and does supplies required to build the RV-4 Park Flyer. We
not shrink as tightly, thus making it suitable for lightweight recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy glue.
structures such as that of the RV-4 Park Flyer. EconoKote
also has an adhesive on the back which is activated by the ❏ 1 oz. Thin Pro CA (GPMR6002)
heat of a model airplane covering iron. ❏ 1 oz. Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008)
❏ CA glue tips (GPMR6033)
Coverite CoverLite is another covering suitable for lightweight ❏ Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
structures (and is the covering that is on the model featured ❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0211)
on the box label). CoverLite has fibers embedded in the film ❏ Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0212)
and is exceptionally strong, yet remains lightweight. It has no ❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
adhesive on the back, therefore, you must apply an adhesive ❏ Builder’s triangle (HCAR0480)
to the structure before application. Use Coverite Balsarite™ ❏ Electric drill and #68 (1/32"), 1/16" [1.6mm], 1/8"
Fabric formula (COVR2500) for CoverLite. Do not use [3.2mm] and 3/16" [4.8mm] drill bits
Balsarite “film formula.” ❏ Small Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers
❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
Transparent MonoKote film is also suitable for covering the ❏ Great Planes Plan Protector™ (GPMR6167) or wax paper
RV-4 Park Flyer, because it is lighter and does not shrink as ❏ HobbyLite™ balsa-colored balsa filler (HCAR3401)
tightly as opaque MonoKote film. ❏ Sanding tools and sandpaper assortment
❏ Sealing iron (TOPR2100)
Opaque MonoKote film is not recommended for the RV-4 ❏ Razor saw
Park Flyer because it is too heavy and shrinks too tightly for
the structure to withstand.
Optional Supplies & Tools
Other lightweight covering materials for park flyer models
are being developed. Check with your hobby dealer for the Here is a list of optional tools that will help you build the
latest products. RV-4 Park Flyer.

❏ Great Planes CG Machine™ (GPMR2400)

Building Board ❏ Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™ (TOPQ5700)
❏ Top Flite Hot Sock™ iron cover (TOPR2175)
You will need a flat board to lay over your workbench that you ❏ Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475)
can stick pins into. The back of a 2' x 4' ceiling tile or a section ❏ Cutting mat (HCAR0456)
cut from a sheet of Celotex® insulation board is ideal. ❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Great Planes 5-1/2" [140mm] Bar Sander™ (GPMR6169)
and 150-grit adhesive back sandpaper (GPMR6183)
❏ Top Flite 320-grit sandpaper (TOPR8030) and 400-grit
sandpaper (TOPR8032)

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

Hardware & Accessories

In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions You Must IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
Make” section, following is the list of hardware and
accessories required to finish your RV-4 Park Flyer. Order
numbers are provided in parentheses. For the best performance, the RV-4 Park Flyer must be built
light. The model is designed for a light yet strong structure.
❏ (1) 1-3/4" Spinner, Red (GPMQ4507) Because the finished model is so light, it does not require
❏ Cellophane tape (for hinges) the stronger structures you may be used to in other models.
❏ Double-sided foam tape (for mounting servos) It is not recommended that you strengthen the model as
(GPMQ4440) doing so will add excess weight.
6
One of the best ways to insure light weight is to build neatly 7. Sanding requires a light touch to avoid damage. We found
and make good-fitting glue joints that require less glue. the best method for sanding is to use light strokes in the
Here are some tips to help you build neatly and light. direction of the longest sticks. Be certain the sandpaper is
thoroughly bonded to the bar sander. Lifted edges will catch
the structure, causing damage. Use medium-grit sandpaper
such as 120 or 150-grit.

8. One of the best ways to insure a lightweight model is to

proceed slowly and build neatly. Good glue joints with minimal
adhesive are stronger, lighter and have a better appearance
than poor-fitting joints with too much CA. Of course, you should
take this approach with all of your projects!

9. Work over a flat surface. Cover the plan with Great Planes
Plan Protector™ (GPMR6167) or wax paper so the parts will
1. The easiest way to cut balsa sticks is with a single-edge not adhere to the plan.
razor blade. To do so, position the stick over the plan, then
place the razor blade on the stick where you wish to cut it.
Press down lightly on the razor blade to make a mark where
the stick is to be cut.

2. Take the stick off the plan and cut it over a cutting mat or
a scrap piece of wood (Okay, if you’re careful you could go
ahead and cut the stick right over the plan, but if you do, you
may cut through the plan protector, allowing the CA to soak
through and glue the structure to the plan).

3. Because of the small balsa sticks used in the tail, small

T-pins may be used to hold the sticks to your building board,
but only where necessary. Use small T-pins (HCAR5100)
or small straight pins found in craft stores. Do not stick pins
into the sticks near the ends, or the wood may split.

4. If you have difficulty with the T-pins splitting the small

sticks, an alternate method is to use the “crossed-pin”
technique. Insert the T-pins into the building board in a
crisscross fashion to hold the sticks to the plan.

5. Only a small amount of CA should be used to glue the

parts together. Use the included CA applicator tips to
control and pinpoint the amount of CA that comes from the
bottle. When the tip becomes clogged, cut the tip off and
continue. In addition to adding unnecessary weight, excess
CA is difficult to sand. If you require additional CA tips, order
number GPMR6033 (5).

6. When applying CA, be careful not to glue your fingers to the

structure. In the process of un-sticking your fingers you can
inadvertently damage the structure, thus requiring repairs and
adding weight (not to mention the aggravation!).
7
 DIE-CUT PATTERNS

METRIC CONVERSIONS
1/64" = .4 mm 3/8" = 9.5 mm 12" = 304.8 mm
1/32" = .8 mm 1/2" = 12.7 mm 18" = 457.2 mm
1/16" = 1.6 mm 5/8" = 15.9 mm 21" = 533.4 mm
3/32" = 2.4 mm 3/4" = 19.0 mm 24" = 609.6 mm
1/8" = 3.2 mm 1" = 25.4 mm 30" = 762.0 mm
5/32" = 4.0 mm 2" = 50.8 mm 36" = 914.4 mm
3/16" = 4.8 mm 3" = 76.2 mm
1/4" = 6.4 mm 6" = 152.4 mm

8
 ❏ 5. Remove the fin and rudder from the plan. Use a bar
BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS sander with 150-grit sandpaper to carefully sand both sides
of the fin and rudder flat and even. Round the corners as
shown on the plan. Refer to the Expert Tip that follows, then
round the leading edge, top of the fin, trailing edge and top
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES of the rudder.

❏ 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll them inside-out so they

will lie flat. Place the fin/rudder portion of the fuse plan over
your flat building board, then cover it with Great Planes Plan
Protector or wax paper so glue will not adhere to the plan.
Note: The bottom of the fin is difficult to see on the fuselage
plan. A separate drawing of the fin is located on the wing
plan and may be more useful for building the fin.
❏ 2. Find the four hardest 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm]
balsa sticks and set them aside for use as the wing spars.

To round the edges of the tail pieces, place one of them

on your workbench so the edge you are rounding extends
just beyond the edge of the bench. Use a bar sander to
hold it down. Use another bar sander to do the sanding.

❏ 3. Build the fin and rudder framework from two 1/8" x

1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] balsa sticks. Hint: Start with
the longest pieces first. If you accidentally cut one piece too
short, use it for a shorter piece somewhere else, thus
❏ 6. Sand a bevel on the leading edge of the rudder as
shown in the cross-section on the plan.
minimizing wasted material.

❏ 7. Use a #11 blade to cut the notch in the rudder where

shown on the plan for the laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood
control horn. The control horn will be installed into the
notch on the right side of the rudder, but do not glue it into
❏ 4. Add the fin and rudder ribs and diagonal braces place until the pushrods are installed during “Hook Up the
from two 1/8" x 1/8" x 24" [3.2 x 3.2 x 610mm] balsa sticks. Controls.” The rudder control horn has an “R” printed on it.
9
 ❏❏ 1. Cover the left wing panel plan with Great Planes
Plan Protector or wax paper.

❏ 8. Build the stab and elevators from five 1/8" x 1/4" x 24"
[3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] and two 1/8" x 1/8" x 24" [3.2 x 3.2 x
610mm] balsa sticks. Be sure to notch the leading edge of
both elevators where the basswood joiner stick goes. Do not
join the elevators with the 1/8" x 1/8" x 3" [3.2 x 3.2 x 76mm]
basswood stick until instructed to do so.
❏ 9. The same as you did the fin and rudder, remove the
stab and elevators from the plans, sand the stab and
elevators flat and even, then round the corners where
shown on the plan. Round the tips of the stab and elevators.
Round the leading edge of the stab and the trailing edge of
the elevators. Bevel the leading edge of both elevators as
shown in the cross-section on the plan.
❏ ❏ 2. Find the four hardest 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x
❏ 10. Use a #11 blade to cut the notch in the left elevator 610mm] balsa sticks you set aside earlier. Match the balsa
where shown on the plan for the laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] main spars so any warps will counteract each other.
plywood control horn. The control horn will be installed into
the notch on the bottom of the left elevator, but do not glue
it into place until the pushrods are installed during “Hook
Up the Controls.”
❏ 11. Use a bar sander with 150-grit sandpaper to bevel the
1/8" x 1/8" x 3" [3.2 x 3.2 x 76mm] basswood elevator
joiner to match the leading edge of the elevators.

❏ 12. Pin both elevators to the plan upside-down. Check the

fit of the elevator joiner and trim if necessary. Use medium CA
to securely glue the elevator joiner to the left elevator only.

❏ ❏ 3. Pin one of the main spars in position over the plan,

BUILD THE WING aligning one end of the main spar with the outside edge of
the root rib W-1.

Build the Wing Panels ❏ ❏ 4. Pin the 1/8" x 3/8" x 24" [3.2 x 9.6 x 610mm] balsa
trailing edge shim in position over the plan, aligning the aft
Start by building the left wing panel first so your progress edge of the stick on the dashed line. The shim should be
matches the photos. standing up with the 1/8" [3.2mm] edge on the table.
10
❏ ❏ 5. Starting at the wing tip, glue six laser-cut 1/16" ❏ ❏ 8. Position the top 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm]
[1.6mm] balsa W2 ribs over the main spar, perpendicular to balsa main spar in the rib notches with one end flush with
the building board. Important: Pin the rear of the ribs firmly the outside edge of the W1 root rib. Glue the spar to all of
to the TE shim. the ribs except the W1 root rib. Make sure all ribs, except the
root rib, are perpendicular to the table as you glue each rib
to the top spar.

❏ ❏ 9. Using the dihedral gauge, check that the root rib is still
at the correct angle. Glue the root rib to the top main spar.
Note: Save the dihedral gauge to set the angle of F5A.

❏❏ 6. Temporarily place a sheet of 1/32" [0.8mm] balsa

sheeting on the plan 1/4" [6.4mm] aft of the spar as shown
in the above photo. This will space the W1 ribs properly on
the spar. Glue a laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa W1 rib in
place over the main spar as shown in the photo.
❏ ❏ 10. Cut one of the 1/8" x 24" [3.2 x 610mm] hardwood
dowels to length so that it fits in the notches at the front of
the wing ribs, from the root to the tip rib. Glue the dowel to
the ribs.

❏ ❏ 11. Locate a 1/32" x 3/4" x 24" [.8 x 19 x 610mm] balsa

sheet. The sheet should fit in the notches at the trailing edge
❏ ❏ 7. Position a W1 root rib in place over the main spar. of the wing ribs. When the wing is complete, it will blend with
Use the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] dihedral gauge to set the rib the bottom trailing edge sheet when it is installed later. The
at the proper angle before gluing it to the main spar. above sketch shows how the completed assembly will look.
11
 ❏❏ 15. Carefully sand the top center sheeting flush with
the wing spar, leading edge dowel and trailing edge sheet.

❏❏ 16. Remove the wing from your building board and

carefully sand off any glue blobs. Cut and sand the wing
spars, leading edge and trailing edge sheeting flush with the
wing tip rib and root rib.

❏ ❏ 17. Reinforce any glue joints that look weak. Glue the
❏ ❏ 12. Glue the top trailing edge sheet to the top of the shear webs to each rib. Remember, use glue sparingly to
wing ribs. minimize weight gain.

❏ ❏ 18. Glue a 1/32" x 3/4" x 24" [.8 x 19 x 610mm] balsa

❏ ❏ 13. From a 1/32" x 3" x 15" [0.8 x 76 x 380mm] balsa bottom trailing edge sheet to the bottom of the wing ribs
sheet, cut and glue shear webs, with the grain running and to the top trailing edge sheet. Trim the sheet even with
vertically, to the top and bottom spars in the locations shown the tip and root ribs.
on the plan. It is not necessary for the shear webs to be
glued to the ribs at this time, but make sure they are glued
securely to the wing spars. Do not install shear webs in Before proceeding, read steps 19 through 25 to become
the rib bay between the W1 ribs. familiar with how the wing tip will be installed.

❏ ❏ 19. Prepare the laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa wing tip

by carefully bending the forward part of the tip along the
embossed lines. You must do this gently to avoid breaking
part of the tip off. Do not bend along the two short lines that
are used to align the tip with the top wing spar.
❏ ❏ 14. From a 1/32" x 3" x 15" [0.8 x 76 x 380mm] balsa
sheet, cut pieces to make the top center sheeting to fit
between the wing spar and trailing edge sheet and between Caution: On the left wing tip the embossed lines should be
the wing spar and the leading edge dowel. Remove any pins on top of the wing tip. On the right wing tip the embossed
that may be under the area to be sheeted. When satisfied lines should be on the bottom of the wing tip. Hold the tip
with the fit, apply medium CA to the top of the W1 ribs and against the wing to determine which way to bend for the
press the sheeting in place. wing tip you are doing!
12
 ❏ ❏ 23. Glue the front of the wing tip to the top edge of rib
W2. Make one more wing tip brace and glue it in place
where shown on the plan.

❏ ❏ 20. Align the two short embossed lines on the wing tip
with the top main spar. Spot glue the wing tip to the end of
the wing spar with a small drop of thin CA.

❏ ❏ 24. Use a sanding block and 150-grit sandpaper to blend

the wing tip, wing tip braces and the W2 rib together smoothly.

❏ 25. Return to step 1 and build the right wing panel.

Remember! Build it over the right wing plan.

Join the Wing Panels

❏❏ 21. From a leftover 1/8" x 1/4" [3.2 x 6.4mm] balsa
stick, cut a wing tip brace 2-1/4" [57mm] long. Bevel the
ends of the brace to fit the wing tip as shown in the photo
above. A straightedge can be used along the top spar to
hold the wing tip even and level with the top of the wing.
When satisfied with the fit, glue the brace in place. Hint:
First spot glue the brace to the W2 rib, then glue the end of
the brace to the wing tip while using the straightedge to hold
the wing tip level.

❏ 1. Draw a centerline on the laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] ply

dihedral brace.

❏ ❏ 22. Glue the rear of the wing tip to the top edge of rib ❏ 2. Using a razor saw and hobby knife, carefully cut a
W2. Make two more wing tip braces and glue them in place 1/16" [1.6mm] slot in root rib W1, just behind the main spar,
where shown on the plan. on both wing panels. Test fit the dihedral brace in each slot.
13
 edge by wicking thin CA between them. Glue the leading
edges and the rest of the root ribs together with thin CA.

❏ 6. Sand the leading and trailing edges of the wing joint flush.

❏ 3. Test fit the wing halves together. With one wing half flat
on your building board, block-up the wing tip of the other
wing half so that it is 2-5/8" [67mm] off of your building
board. Use a bar sander to sand the center joint as
necessary until the wing halves fit together without any gap.
Note: Do not be concerned if your wing does not have
exactly 2-5/8" [67mm] dihedral. No adjustment is needed if
it is within 1/4" [6.4mm].
❏ 7. Sheet the bottom of the center-section with a 1/32" x
3" x 15" [0.8 x 76 x 380mm] balsa sheet. If you are careful,
this can be done as a continuous strip across the full width
of the center-section, as shown in the above photo.

❏ 8. Fill any dings and uneven areas on the wing with light
weight balsa filler. Sand the wing smooth in preparation
for covering.

Build the Ailerons

❏ 4. When satisfied with the fit, glue the ply dihedral brace ❏ ❏ 1. Using the drawings on the wing plan, follow the
into the left wing panel with medium CA. Be sure the procedure below to make a right aileron torque rod from
dihedral brace is securely glued to the two main spars. After one of the .030" x 20" [.76 x 508mm] wires.
the CA has hardened, tack-glue the right wing panel to the
ply dihedral brace with a small drop of thin CA. Do not glue
the root ribs together yet. With one wing panel flat on your
building board and the wing tip of the other wing half
blocked up as before, check that you have the same
measurement as in the above step. When satisfied with the
fit, wick more thin CA along the dihedral brace, securely
gluing it to both main spars in the right wing panel.

❏ ❏ A. Cut 1" [25mm] from one end of the .030" x 20" [.76
x 508mm] wire and clamp it in a vise. Make a loop near one
end of the remaining wire by pulling it around the wire
clamped in the vise.

❏ 5. Align the trailing edges and glue them together with thin ❏ ❏ B. Cut the excess wire from the loop, then use the drawing
CA. Glue the root ribs together from the spar to the trailing on the plan to make the next bend as shown in the photo.
14
❏ ❏ C. Locate one of the 1/16" x 12" [1.6 x 305mm]
aluminum tubes. Cut two 9/16" [14mm] aileron torque rod
bearings from the tube. De-burr the holes in the tube with a ❏ 5. Temporarily tape both ailerons to the wing.
#11 knife blade. Install one of these pieces on the wire.
Make the final bend, then cut the wire to the length shown
on the plan. Be certain the horizontal portion of the torque ❏ 6. Glue the laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] ply servo horn to the
rod, that goes into the aileron, is perpendicular to the plastic servo horn included with your servo. With this servo
vertical portion of the rod. horn, the ailerons will travel up more than down, reducing
adverse yaw, which is the tendency for the nose of the
Remember: When you make the left torque rod, the bends are model to turn away from the direction of banked turns.
in different directions and the length will be 1-1/8 [28.5mm].

❏ ❏ 2. Cut one of the 1/16" x 7/8" x 17" [1.6 x 22 x 430mm] ❏ 7. Cut the top sheeting for the aileron servo, so that the
balsa ailerons to the length shown on the wing plan. Drill a servo can be mounted to the left side of the center rib, aft of
#68 (or 1/32") [0.8mm] hole into the leading edge of the the wing joiner and spar.
aileron where shown on the plan for the aileron torque rod.

❏ 8. Clean the aileron servo case with a tissue dampened

with alcohol or other suitable solvent. Mount the aileron
servo to the side of the center rib with double-sided foam
mounting tape (GPMQ4440, not included).

Note: For a more secure bond to the wing rib, first coat the
rib with a thin layer of medium CA where the tape will be
applied. Sand the hardened CA to remove any irregularities.

❏ ❏ 3. Cut a notch in the leading edge of the aileron ❏ 9. Use the remainder of the .030" [.76mm] wire you used
between the hole you drilled and the end to accommodate for the torque rods to make the aileron pushrods. Note that
the torque rod. Glue the torque rod to the aileron with the pushrods are connected to the torque rods with a
medium CA. “Z-bend” on both ends. If you do not have Z-bend pliers, or
do not know how to make a Z-bend with regular pliers, follow
❏ 4. Return to step 1 and make the left aileron torque rod the procedure below. (For clarity, larger wire than was
and aileron the same way. supplied with this kit was used in the photos.)

Refer to these photos for the following five steps. Note:

You may want to delay the following steps until after the ❏ A. Make the first 90° bend near one end of the wire.
model is covered.

❏ B. Hold the wire in the pliers as shown.

15
❏ C. Make the second 90° bend downward. ❏ 11. If you need to tweak the linkage slightly to center the
ailerons, you can make a slight bend in the aileron torque rod.

❏ D. Make the final 90° bend (twist) upward to form the “Z.” ❏ 12. After the model is covered, glue the aileron torque
rod bearings to the trailing edge of the wing with medium
CA. Coat the torque rod with a film of oil or Vaseline® to
prevent CA from adhering to the torque rod.

❏ E. Cut the excess wire near the end.

BUILD THE FUSELAGE
Note: This procedure does not work for all types of wire, but
will work on the thin music wire supplied with this kit.
Frame the Sides

❏ 1. Glue a 1/8" x 1/8" [3.2 x 3.2mm] balsa stick to the top

❏ 10. Connect the aileron servo to the aileron torque rods and bottom on one side of formers F2 to F8. Note: The side
with the pushrods you just made. with the sticks on it is now the front.
16
❏ 2. Use thin CA to glue the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] left and ❏ 5. Cover the bottom view of the fuse plan with Plan
right fuselage top deck pieces together. Hold the pieces Protector or wax paper. Pin the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa
together tightly while applying CA glue to the joint a couple fuselage top deck over the bottom view of the fuselage plan.
of inches at a time, wiping excess CA from the joint before
it hardens. Lightly sand the top deck smooth.

Important: The front of the top deck should be aligned with

the rear of F1. The fuselage sides will extend 1/16" [1.6mm]
forward of the top deck.

❏ 3. Use a straightedge and a hobby knife to trim the front

edge of one of the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa fuselage
sides along the cut line. Mark the inside of that fuse side ❏ 6. Fit former F4 and the fuse sides to the fuse top. When
with an “R,” designating it as the right side. Note: The cut satisfied with the fit, glue F4 to the fuse top and sides. Note:
line is not straight and angles about halfway down the side. Make certain the right fuse side is on the right, and the left
fuse side is on the left (Remember, you are building the
fuselage upside-down.)

❏ 4. There are die-cut markings for the pushrod exit slots

on the rear of the fuselage sides. Cut out the lower rear slot
on the right fuselage side. Cut out the upper forward slot
on the other fuselage side, which now becomes the left
side. Note: The marked slots can be difficult to see. Cut the ❏ 7. Working forward one former at a time, glue formers F3
slots according to the dimensions shown in the above photo. and F2 to the fuse top and sides.
17
❏ 8. Working aft one former at a time, glue formers F5, F6
and F7 to the fuse top and sides. Glue the fuse sides to the
fuse top. ❏ 13. Cut two 1" [25.4mm] pieces from a leftover 1/8" x 1/4"
[3.2 x 6.4mm] balsa stick. Glue a piece to each side of the
fuselage on top of the ply landing gear mount.

❏ 9. Glue former F8 into position between the fuselage sides.

Finish the Fuselage

❏ 10. Glue the laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] ply landing gear mount
to the fuselage where shown on the side view of the plan.

❏ 1. Locate the laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] ply former F1.

Draw a line across the top of the former on the front, as
shown in the photo. Note that the hole for the gearbox is
offset to the right as seen in the above photo.

❏ 11. Use a sheet of 1/32" x 3" x 15" [0.8 x 76 x 380mm]

balsa to sheet the bottom rear of the fuselage. Start at
former F5 and cut and glue only the first two pieces. The
remainder of the sheeting will be installed after the servos
are installed.

❏ 2. Cut three 1/2" [13mm] pieces from a leftover 1/8" x 1/4"

❏ 12. Remove the fuselage from the plan. Reinforce any [3.2 x 6.4mm] balsa stick. Glue a piece over each of the screw
glue joints that look weak. Lightly sand the fuselage smooth. holes on the rear of F1. Position them as shown in the photo.
18
❏ 3. Cut four 1" [25.4mm] pieces from a leftover 1/8" x 1/4"
[3.2 x 6.4mm] balsa stick.

Before proceeding, read steps 4 thru 9. This will give you a

better understanding of how to proceed.

❏ 4. Check the fit of former F1 to the front of the fuselage.

The top deck should end 1/16" [1.6mm] aft of the front
edges of the fuselage sides. With F1 in place, the top deck
should be against the rear of F1. Note: It may be necessary
to trim the fuse sides to match the width of the firewall. ❏ 7. Glue F1 to the upper part of the right fuselage side.
The line drawn across the top of F1 should be aligned with
the top of the fuselage side. Make sure F1 is aligned
accurately with the slope on the upper part of the fuselage
side. Do not glue F1 to the lower part of the fuselage side.
Glue another 1" [25.4mm] strip to the right fuselage side
and the rear of F1.

❏ 5. Glue F1 to the upper part of the left fuselage side. The

line drawn across the top of F1 should be aligned with the
top of the fuselage side. Align F1 accurately with the slope ❏ 8. Prepare two of the 1" [25.4mm] balsa strips as shown
on the upper part of the fuselage side. The lower part of the in the photo. Sand a curve along one side to match the
fuselage side angles forward slightly. Do not glue F1 to the curve of the lower part of F1. Sand an angle along the side
lower part of the fuselage side. Glue the top deck to the of this curve. Study steps 9 and 10 to get a better idea of
fuselage side as well. how the strip should be shaped. This piece is fitted into
place in step 10, but it will help to have the part sanded to
shape first.

The lower front of the right fuselage side will now be glued
to the curved part of F1. The fuselage side must first be
wetted for it to bend around this curve. We have found the
best solution for this is 70% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing
❏ 6. Glue one of the 1" [25.4mm] strips that you cut earlier alcohol), which will soak in rapidly and dry quickly. This
to the fuselage side and the rear of F1. looks difficult, but if you proceed as instructed it works well.
19
 ❏ 11. In the same way, glue the left fuselage side to former
F1. Before doing so, glue the die-cut reference cut lines with
some thin CA. As you glue the side in place, it may crack at
the bottom of the cut line. Once the side is glued in place
any cracks can be sanded smooth and filled with lightweight
balsa filler.

❏ 9. Wet the outside of the sheeting where it curves around

the bottom of F1. Slowly bend the fuselage side along the
curve. If it begins to crack, moisten the area with more
alcohol. Once you get the wood to bend along the curve,
soak some thin CA into the joint between the right fuselage
side and F1. Continue to hold pressure on the joint, even
after the CA has hardened.
❏ 12. Carefully sand the fuselage sides even with the front
of former F1. Do not push the sandpaper back and forth
across the joint. Rather, push the sandpaper across the joint
Note: Put some wax paper or plan protector between your towards the center of the former. Be careful not to snag the
thumb and the fuselage side so you don’t glue yourself to opposite fuselage side.
the model.

Caution: Do not squeeze the joint too tightly or you will

break the fuselage side.

❏ 10. While still holding the joint tightly, fit and glue the strip
you prepared in step 8 to the back of F1, along the side of
the fuselage. It does not have to fit tightly. Soak some thin
CA onto the area, keeping the strip in place. After the thin ❏ 13. Cut six 2" [51mm] sticks from the 1/8" x 3/8" [3.2 x
CA hardens, fill any gaps with medium CA. Do not release 9.6mm] balsa stick. Working one at a time, glue three sticks
pressure on the joint until after the medium CA has fully to the inside of each fuse side to create a gluing surface for
hardened. CA accelerator will speed the process. the bottom sheeting.
20
❏ 14. Sand the sticks flat so that the bottom sheeting can ❏ 18. Glue the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa formers F2A
be glued in place. thru F8A to the fuselage top deck. Formers F2A, F3A, F6A,
F7A and F8A are glued perpendicular to the top deck. Use
the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa F3A gauge to establish the
correct angle of F4A. Use the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm]
dihedral gauge to set the angle of F5A.

❏ 15. Using the 1/16" x 3" [1.6 x 76mm] balsa sheet, sheet
the bottom front of the fuselage. Start by gluing a sheet
beginning at the ply landing gear mount.

❏ 19. Using three 1/8" x 1/8" x 24" [3.2 x 3.2 x 610mm]

balsa sticks, cut, fit and glue the stringers to the forward part
of the fuselage. Start with the bottom stringer, which goes
from F1 to F5A. Use the remainder of this stick to do the
stringer above it. Use the third stick to do the top center
stringer, saving the remainder of the stick for the top stringer
❏ 16. Sand the contour of the fuselage front to blend into on the aft part of the fuselage.
former F1. Fill any gaps with lightweight balsa filler.

❏ 17. Place the fuselage upside-down over the bottom view

of the plan. Mark the location of formers F2A, F3A, F4A,
F5A, F6A and F7A on the left and right fuselage sides. ❏ 20. Using five 1/8" x 1/8" x 24" [3.2 x 3.2 x 610mm] balsa
Transfer the marks to the top deck of the fuselage. Note on sticks, cut, fit and glue the stringers to the aft part of the
the side view that formers F4A and F5A are not located over fuselage. Start with the two bottom stringers on each side,
F4 and F5. which go from F5 to the rear of F8.
21
❏ 21. Use a leftover 1/8" x 1/8" [3.2 x 3.2mm] balsa stick to ❏ 25.Tack glue a leftover 1/8" x 1/8" [3.2 x 3.2mm] balsa stick
reinforce the trailing edge of the fuse sides and where the across the front of the stab saddle area of the fuse.
horizontal stab will be mounted. This will provide additional
gluing area.

❏ 26. Tack glue a 1/8" x 1/8" [3.2 x 3.2mm] balsa stick

centered on top of the sticks glued in the last two steps.
❏ 22. Temporarily pin the horizontal stab to the fuselage,
making sure it is centered.

❏ 27. Cut the 3/4" x 3/4" x 12" [19 x 19 x 305mm] balsa stick
❏ 23. Hold the fuselage on the wing and check that the stab in half, making two 6" [152.5mm] pieces. Tack glue these to
is level with the wing. Lightly sand the stab mount as needed the sticks as shown.
to make it level with the wing.
❏ 28. Using a razor plane and progressively finer grades of
sandpaper, shape the fillet blocks until they blend into and
follow the contour of the fuselage.

❏ 24. Glue a filler stick cut from leftover 1/8" x 1/4" [3.2 x
6.4mm] balsa to the top of the fuselage, 3/16" [5mm] behind ❏ 29. Cut the fillet blocks and false stab/fin off the aircraft.
the stab. Be careful not to glue the stab to the fuselage. Remove the sticks used to represent the stab and fin.
22
❏ 30. Being careful not to glue the stab or fin, glue the stab ❏ 34. Glue the small laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa braces
fillets to the fuse using the fin and stab spacers. Note: The to the fuselage top deck midway between formers F4A and
stab and fin will be installed after the model is covered. F5A. These braces are used only to provide additional
support for the canopy and do not need to be even with the
fuselage sides or the stringer.
❏ 31. From a 1/8" [3.2mm] dowel, cut a 4-3/4" [120mm] rear
wing hold-down dowel and a 5-3/4" [146mm] front wing
hold-down dowel. Round the ends for a neat appearance. If you would like to blend the leading and trailing edge of the
wing with the bottom of the fuselage, continue with step 36.
Otherwise, go to “Install the Pushrods” on page 24.
Adding these fairings will only add a slight amount of weight
to the model.

❏ 32. Drill 1/8" [3.2mm] holes in the sides of the fuselage

for each dowel where shown on the plan and insert each
dowel into the fuselage.

Caution: If the rear dowel is too low, it will interfere with the ❏ 35. Cut a 3-3/4" [95mm] fairing strip from a leftover 1/8"
aileron pushrods. If the front dowel is too low, it will not x 1/4" [3.2 x 6.4mm] balsa stick. Sand a taper on the ends
provide proper shock absorption for the landing gear. of the stick as shown in the above photo.

❏ 33. Cut four 5/8" [16mm] long blocks from a leftover 1/8" x
1/4" [3.2 x 6.4mm] balsa stick. Glue a block to the inside of the
fuselage side under each dowel end to reinforce the area.

Note: Remove the dowel first so you don’t glue the dowel ❏ 36. Glue the fairing strip to the bottom of the fuselage
in place. behind the trailing edge of the wing.
23
 ❏ 41. Using a leftover piece of 1/32" [0.8mm] balsa sheet,
cut a piece 4-3/8" x 1-1/2" [111 x 38mm]. Glue this piece to
the filler strip and the bottom wing sheeting.

❏ 37. Blend the fairing strip to the fuselage bottom with

some lightweight balsa filler.

❏ 38. Using a leftover piece of 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa

sheeting, cut a piece 4-3/8" [111mm] long. Notch one side
of this piece as shown in the above sketch. ❏ 42. Use leftover 1/32" [0.8mm] balsa to cut, fit and glue
filler strips to the end of the sheeting.

Install the Pushrods

For the following steps make sure the horizontal stab and
vertical fin are pinned in place on the fuselage.

❏ 39. Place the piece on the leading edge of the wing,

against the fuselage. Mark the sheet where it needs to be
cut flush with the bottom of the fuselage.

❏ 1. Use a tissue dampened with denatured alcohol or

other suitable solvent to clean the servo cases so the
❏ 40. Tack glue this filler strip to the leading edge of the mounting tape will adhere. Use double-sided foam mounting
wing, being careful not to glue it or the wing to the fuselage. tape (GPMQ4440, not included) to mount the elevator and
Remove the wing and reinforce the glue joint. rudder servos to the fuse sides where shown on the plan.
24
❏ 2. Thoroughly clean the remaining .030" x 20" [.76 x Refer to this photo for the following four steps. Note:
508mm] wire with alcohol or similar solvent, then scuff it with The photo shows how the completed installation will look.
320-grit sandpaper so glue will adhere.

❏ 7. Cut a slot in the fuselage at the rear of the horizontal

stab for the 1/8" [3.2mm] elevator joiner, installed in the left
elevator. Insert the joiner in the slot and check that the
elevator will move freely once installed. Temporarily hinge
the left elevator to the stab using clear cellophane tape.

❏ 8. Insert the elevator pushrod into the fuse through the

slot in the left side. The pushrod end that is not glued into
the tube should be at the servo end.

❏ 9. Connect the front of the pushrod to the servo arm, then

mount the servo arm to the elevator servo. Connect the other
end of the pushrod to the outer hole in the elevator control horn,
❏ 3. Cut 5" [127mm] from the wire. Make a “Z” bend on one then insert the control horn into the slot in the elevator.
end and a slight bend on the other end. See the drawing on
the fuselage plan. This is a control horn pushrod end. ❏ 10. Slide the pushrod end in or out of the pushrod tube
until the elevator is centered when the servo is centered.

❏ 4. Use pliers to insert this pushrod end 1" [25.4mm] into ❏ 11. Make the rudder pushrod and join the rudder to the
a 1/16" x 12" [1.6 x 305mm] aluminum pushrod tube. Use fin the same way. The rudder pushrod should be inserted
thin CA to glue the pushrod end into the pushrod tube. into the inner hole of the rudder control horn.

Note: The photo shows how the completed installation will look.

❏ 5. Make another pushrod end from a 4-1/4" [108mm] wire

just the same as the first and insert it into the other end of
the pushrod tube, but do not glue it in. See the drawing on
the fuselage plan. This will be the elevator pushrod.

❏ 6. Make sure the pushrod end that is not glued into the
tube fits tightly and will not easily slide in and out. It will be
permanently glued in after the model has been set up and ❏ 12. The pushrods should be braced at the locations
the exact length of the pushrod has been determined. shown on the plan. This photo shows the bracing installed
25
just forward of F6. Use a leftover piece of 1/8" x 1/4" [3.2 x Tail Surfaces:
6.4mm] balsa for the main brace. Cut notches in the brace ❏ 1. The bottom, then the top of the stabilizer
where the pushrods cross it. Hold the pushrods in the ❏ 2. Bottom, then top of elevators
notches with leftover 1/8" x 1/8" [3.2 x 3.2mm] balsa. Be ❏ 3. Fin
careful not to glue the pushrods to the braces. ❏ 4. Rudder
Fuselage:
❏ 1. Bottom
❏ 2. Sides and top
Wing:
❏ 1. The bottom of the wing
❏ 2. Top of the wing
❏ 3. Ailerons
Note: It may be easier to cover the wing tips separately,
after the rest of the wing has been covered.
❏ 13. In a similar manner, install pushrod bracing where
shown on the plan at the rear of the fuselage. This photo ❏ 1. After all the tail pieces are covered, inspect the stab
shows the bracing between F7 and F8. and fin for twists. If necessary, lightly twist the part in the
opposite direction and apply heat to the covering until you
❏ 14. Sheet the bottom rear of the fuselage with the can get it flat.
remaining 1/32" [0.8mm] balsa sheeting.
Add “Washout”
❏ 15. Remove the servo arms from the top of the servos.
Pull the pushrods into the fuselage so that the rear ends do An important characteristic of most airplanes is their ability
not extend out of the fuselage. to resist stalling, or to stall gently. Simply stated, a stall is
when the wing no longer produces lift–basically the model
❏ 16. Remove the stab and fin from the fuselage. Reinforce quits flying until it regains airspeed. A stall can occur when
the glue joints of stringers that were tack glued into place. attempting to climb too rapidly, or when the model runs out
Sand the stringers even with F4 and F5. Sand all stringers of airspeed (such as when trying to land too slowly). One
to a smooth contoured shape. Sand the sheeting even with way to prevent or delay a stall is to add “washout” to the
the fuselage sides. wing. Washout is an upward twist at both wing tips, so that
the trailing edge is higher than the leading edge. If the
trailing edges are raised slightly, or are at a lower angle then
COVER THE MODEL the rest of the wing, the outer portion of the wing will
continue to produce lift (fly) even though the rest of the wing
has quit flying, thus resisting a stall. Because the RV-4 Park
❏ 1. If you haven’t done so already, sand all parts of the Flyer is designed to be light, it would be difficult to build this
model smooth with 320-grit, then 400-grit sandpaper. required twist into the wing during construction. The
following procedure explains how to add washout, which is
❏ 2. Use compressed air (be careful!), a dust brush or a common for lightweight structures such as this.
tack cloth to remove balsa dust from the model.

❏ 3. Determine what material you will be covering the

model with. If using Top Flite EconoKote, the model is ready
to cover. If using Coverite CoverLite, coat the areas to be
covered with Coverite Balsarite Fabric Formula
(COVR2500). Be certain you use the fabric formula for
CoverLite, and not the formula for regular film covering.

❏ 4. Follow the suggested covering sequence to cover

the model.

❏ 1. Start with the right wing panel. Holding the middle of

Suggested Covering Sequence the wing in one hand, twist the trailing edge of the right wing
tip upward. The amount of washout to shoot for is 1/8"
Important: Do not shrink the covering until both sides of [3.2mm], so begin by twisting about 1/2" [13mm] (because
each part are covered. This will reduce the tendency for the the wing will “spring” partway back to its original position
surfaces to twist. after re-shrinking the covering in the next step).
26
❏ 2. Note the wrinkles in the covering while holding the
wing. Have an assistant heat the covering on the top and the
bottom until the wrinkles disappear. Allow the covering to
fully cool before letting go.

❏ 3. Add washout to the left wing panel the same way.

Note: For a small, lightweight model such as the RV-4

Park Flyer, it is not critical to get exactly 1/8” [3.3mm] of
washout. However, it is important that some washout be
present in both wing tips. Do your best to achieve the ❏ 2. Use a small pin to poke several holes through the
washout recommended, but don’t spend hours trying to covering in the top and bottom of the stab where it will be
do so. A slight variance in both wing tips is acceptable, as glued to the fuselage. These holes will absorb the CA that
long as neither of the wing tips have any “wash-in.” will be used to glue the fin to the stab and will make for a
stronger glue joint.
❏ 4. Check the wing periodically to be sure the washout
❏ 3. Place the stab in the fuse, making sure it is centered
remains. Twist and shrink the covering as necessary to
as shown in “A” = “A” in the photo above. Hint: If the
retain the washout.
covering on the stab is transparent, align the sticks on both
sides of the center stick with the fuse.

❏ 4. View the model from the rear and see if the stab is level
with the wing as shown in “B” = “B.” If the stab is not level
with the wing, carefully sand the “high side” of the fuse until
FINAL ASSEMBLY you can get the stab to align.

Join the Tail Surfaces

❏ 5. Use a string or tape measure to align the stab. Put a

pin in the center of the top of former F1. Tie a loop in one
end of the string and place it over the pin. Put some tape
over the string with a mark on it. Swing the string from side
to side and adjust the stab as required until the stab is
aligned properly.

❏ 6. When satisfied with the alignment, glue the stab in

place with thin CA.

❏ 1. Mount the wing to the fuse with two #64 rubber bands
(when it’s time to fly the RV-4 Park Flyer, use four #64
rubber bands). Trim the front edge of the aft fuse bottom
sheeting and cut notches in former F5 to accommodate the
aileron torque rods. If you have to cut much of the former,
use a leftover 1/8" x 1/8" [3.2 x 3.2mm] balsa stick to cut and ❏ 7. Insert the vertical fin in the fuselage. Use a builders
glue a reinforcing piece behind F5. square to get the fin perpendicular to the stab. Make sure
27
the fin is aligned with the rear of the fuselage. Glue the stab
to the fuse with thin CA. The photo shows the rudder
installed on the fin, but your model will not have the rudder
installed yet.

❏ 4. Connect the front of the elevator pushrod to the servo

arm, then mount the servo arm to the elevator servo. Connect
the other end of the pushrod to the outer hole in the elevator
control horn, then insert the control horn into the slot in the
elevator. Glue the control horn into place with thin CA.

❏ 5. Slide the pushrod end in or out of the pushrod tube

until the elevator is centered when the servo is centered.
❏ 8. Place the rudder over the plans and mark the location
of the tail wheel wire where it mounts on the rudder. Drill a ❏ 6. Hinge the right elevator to the stab using clear cellophane
1/16" [1.6mm] hole in the leading edge of the rudder for the tape. Glue the 1/8" [3.2mm] elevator joiner to the right elevator
wire. Notch the leading edge of the rudder for the wire to fit with thin CA. Make sure the left and right elevators are aligned
into. Insert the tail wheel wire in the rudder and make sure it before gluing the joiner into place. Be careful not to glue the
is aligned correctly. Make sure the model will track correctly joiner or the elevator to the stab or fuselage.
on the ground with the rudder centered. Glue the tail wheel
wire into the rudder with thin CA.

Hook Up the Controls

❏ 7. Install the rudder to the fin with clear cellophane tape.
❏ 1. Before proceeding, charge the motor battery (and your The rudder pushrod should be inserted into the inner hole of
transmitter if needed). When it’s time to set up the radio you the rudder control horn.
won’t have to stand by while the batteries are charging.
❏ 8. If you have not done so already, attach the ailerons to
❏ 2. Cut the covering from the elevator and rudder pushrod the wing with cellophane tape the same as you did the
exit slots near the aft end of the fuse. Push the rear ends of elevators and rudder. Follow the instructions on page 14,
the pushrods out the slots in the rear of the fuselage. “Build the Ailerons” for pushrod installation.

Refer to this photo for the following four steps.

Mount the Landing Gear

❏ 1. Install the supplied 3/4" [19mm] tail wheel on the tail

❏ 3. Install the left elevator on the fuselage. Insert the wheel wire. Hold it in place with a white nylon retainer.
elevator joiner in the slot behind the stab and check that the
elevator will move freely once installed. Hinge the left ❏ 2. Install the supplied 2" [51mm] wheels on the 3/32"
elevator to the stab using clear cellophane tape as shown in [1.6mm] wire landing gear. Secure the wheels with the
the sketch that follows. supplied wheel collars and set screws.
28
❏ 3. Mount the landing gear to the fuse with a #14 rubber
band on each side. Both rubber bands must be stretched
enough to wrap around the gear and dowel at least two times.

❏ 2. Apply a small amount of the green locking glue to the

motor shaft. Press the pinion gear onto the motor shaft using
a small hammer, base of a large screwdriver or something
similar. Depending on how tight the fit is, you may have to tap
the gear into place. While doing this, do not rest the base of
the motor on your workbench, but support the motor shaft with
a piece of hardwood. This way, the pressure applied to the
gear will not displace the armature in the motor.

❏ 4. Cut four 1" [25.4mm] pieces from a leftover 1/8" x 1/8"

[32. x 3.2mm] balsa stick. Glue the pieces in front of and Note: If you are using the Great Planes ElectriFly S-370
behind the landing gear as shown in the photo. motor, it is easier to press the gear into place between the
jaws of a vise. Be careful not to damage the capacitors
installed on the back of the motor. Follow the instructions
supplied with the motor.

Assemble the Gear Drive

Follow these assembly instructions for the Great Planes

ElectriFly motor and S-280 gear drive. If you are using
another type of gear drive and motor, follow the instructions
that came with the unit.

❏ 3. Press the motor by hand as far as it will go into the

gear drive unit. Draw a pencil line around the motor where it
aligns with the rear of the gear drive unit. Back the motor out
about 1/16" [1.6mm]. Spin the gear drive output shaft with
❏ 1. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to clean the your fingers to insure that the gear drive and motor move
motor shaft. Roughen the shaft with 320-grit sandpaper so freely. If the fit of the motor in the gear drive is loose, use a
glue will adhere. drop of CA to hold the motor in place.

Note: If you are using the Great Planes ElectriFly S-370

motor, you should lightly file the knurling on the motor shaft
to make installation of the pinion gear easier. Wrap the Note: If you are using the Great Planes ElectriFly S-370 motor
motor in a plastic bag to prevent metal filings from entering the fit of the motor in the gear drive will be very tight. Carefully
the motor. use a slip joint pliers to install the motor in the gear drive.
29
❏ 4. Connect the motor to the speed control. Guide the ❏ 5. On our model, we used a screw at the front and rear
speed control and wiring through the hole in F1. Mount the of the canopy and tape on the sides.
gearbox to F1 with screws supplied with the gearbox.

Note: If you are installing a speed 400 size motor you will
need to enlarge the hole in F1 slightly. This can be easily
done with a rotary tool and a sanding drum.

❏ 6. Cut the cowl from its plastic sheet as close to the base
as possible. Fit the cowl to the front of the fuselage. Mount
MOUNT THE CANOPY, COWL & the prop adapter and the spinner back plate to the gearbox
output shaft. Position the cowl so it is centered on the
WHEEL PANTS spinner back plate and tape it into place on the fuselage.

❏ 1. Paint the cockpit area to suit your color scheme. We

used black, water-based paint.

2. Trim the pilot outlines from the fuselage plan and glue
them to a flat piece of foam, such as from a foam dinner
plate. Trim the assembly and paint the pilot as desired.
Mount the pilot to the cockpit floor with clear tape.

❏ 3. Trim the canopy to fit the cockpit area. We trimmed

ours even with the bottom edge of the canopy as close to
the base as possible, but you may want to leave a small lip
around the base. ❏ 7. Cut the cowl cheeks from their plastic sheet, leaving a
small lip at the edges.

❏ 4. Mount the canopy to the fuselage. This can be done by

taping the canopy to the fuselage with clear tape or by using
the supplied #2 x 3/8" [9.6mm] screws. ❏ 8. Fit the cowl cheeks to the model and tape them into place.
30
❏ 9. Use four #2 x 3/16" [4.8mm] screws to hold the cowl in ❏ ❏ 13. Cut the right wheel pant parts from their plastic
place, two on each side of the cowl cheek. Use a 1/16" sheet, trimming them as close to the sheet as possible.
[1.6mm] drill bit to drill the screw holes into the F1.

❏ ❏ 14. Remove the right wheel from the model. Fit the
❏ 10. Mark the cowl cheeks and cowl to suit your trim wheel pant parts together and trim an opening in the bottom
scheme. Remove them from the model and paint them as for the wheel. Trim the wheel pant sides so that the wheel
desired. When you mount the parts back on the model, the fits neatly inside, without being too tight or loose.
cowl cheeks can be glued into place with thin CA, being
careful not to glue the cowl.
Use this photo for the next two steps.

The next two steps are very important for adequate cooling
of the motor.

❏ ❏ 15. Glue the wheel pant sides together with thin CA. Cut
some thin strips from leftover plastic and use them inside the
wheel pant to reinforce the seams where the sides join. Fill the
seams with filler. Bondo® automotive filler works well. Sand the
filler and then paint the wheel pant as desired.

❏ 11. Trim the bottom of the cowl to allow cooling air to ❏❏ 16. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole at the bottom of the
enter the cooling holes in former F1. This is especially groove for the landing gear wire.
important if you are using the Great Planes S-280 or S-370
motor. Without adequate cooling, these motors can easily
overheat, greatly reducing their life span.

❏ ❏ 17. Cut two 1/4" [6.4mm] pieces from a leftover 1/8" x

1/8" [32. x 3.2mm] balsa stick. Glue these pieces on each
side of the hole. These pieces will act as spacers to hold the
wheel pant away from the wheel. Depending on the size of
❏ 12. Cut an opening in the bottom of the fuselage for your wheel and how you cut the opening in the wheel pant,
heated air to escape. This hole should be at least 1-1/4" x 2" you may need to glue a shim piece to these spacers. The
[32 x 51mm]. wheel should not rub against the side of the wheel pant.
31
 at which your model should balance for your first flights.
After the initial trim flights and when you become more
acquainted with the RV-4 Park Flyer, you may wish to
experiment by shifting the balance up to 1/4" [6mm] forward
or 1/2" [12.7mm] backward to change its flying
characteristics. Moving the balance point forward may
improve the smoothness and stability, but the model may
then require more speed for takeoff and may become more
difficult to slow down for landing. Moving the balance point
aft makes the model more agile with a lighter “feel.” In any
case, start at the location we recommend. Do not at any
❏ ❏ 18. Insert a wheel into the wheel pant and slide the time balance your model outside the recommended range.
wheel pant and wheel onto the landing gear wire. Secure
the wheel to the landing gear wire with a 3/32" [2.4mm]
wheel collar and 4-40 x 1/8" [3.2mm] set screw. Tighten the
set screw so that it will mark the landing gear wire. ❏ 2. Follow the instructions that came with your speed
control to connect the speed control and servos to the
❏ ❏ 19. Remove the wheel collar, wheel and wheel pant receiver. Temporarily position the receiver inside the fuse and
from the landing gear wire. File a flat spot on the landing lay the antenna along the outside of the fuse over the stab.
gear wire where the set screw mark is.

❏ 3. Mount the propeller and spinner to the gear drive using

the prop adapter. If necessary, enlarge the spacer in the prop
with a 3/16" [4.8mm] drill bit or a hobby knife with a #11 blade.

❏ 4. Mount the wing to the fuse with two #64 rubber bands
(when it’s time to fly the RV-4 Park Flyer, the wing will be
mounted to the fuse with four #64 rubber bands,
❏ ❏ 20. Install the wheel pant, wheel and wheel collar back crisscrossing the last two.
on the landing gear wire and tighten the set screw. Check
that the wheel spins freely on the wire. With the wheel pant
aligned so that the wheel is centered in the opening, glue
the wheel pant to the landing gear wire with CA. DO NOT
use accelerator as it can weaken the plastic. For a more
secure attachment you can glue a 3/4" [19mm] piece of 1/8"
x 1/4" [3.2 x 6.4mm] balsa to the side of the wheel pant over
the landing gear wire.

❏ 21. Return to step 13 and install the left wheel pant.

PREPARE THE MODEL FOR FLYING

❏ 5. With the model ready to fly and all parts installed
except for the battery, position the battery pack on the
Balance the Model bottom of the wing. Lift the model at the balance point or
place it on a Great Planes C.G. Machine. If the tail drops, the
Note: This section is VERY important and must NOT be model is “tail heavy.” If the nose drops, it is “nose heavy.”
omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will be Position the battery on the bottom of the wing so the model
unstable and possibly unflyable. will balance. This is the location where the battery must be
mounted inside the fuselage to balance the model, thus
❏ 1. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm] wide striping eliminating additional ballast (nose or tail weight). Because
tape to accurately mark the balance point on the top of the weight is critical to the flight performance of Park Flyers, it is
wing on both sides of the fuselage. The balance point (C.G.) best to balance the plane by mounting the battery in the
is shown on the fuse plan and is located 2-3/4" [70mm] back optimum location. Minor C.G. changes can be made by
from the leading edge of the wing. This is the balance point changing the location of the receiver as well.
32
❏ 6. Mark the location of the battery on the outside of
the fuselage.

❏ 9. Determine your method for extending the receiver

antenna and routing it through the fuselage. Something as
simple as drilling a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the bottom
of the fuselage, guiding the antenna through, and taping it
to the rear of the fuselage is acceptable. Be certain there is
no way that the antenna can reach the propeller! Never coil-
up the antenna inside the fuselage, nor cut it. The antenna
is tuned to a certain length.
❏ 10. Recheck the C.G. to make certain the model
balances correctly. If the battery is held in place with Velcro,
you will be able to shift it slightly to fine tune the C.G.
❏ 7. Use Great Planes Hook and Loop Velcro ®
(GPMQ4480,
❏ 11. Check the lateral balance of the model. With the wing
not included), or another suitable method to mount the
level, carefully lift the model by the motor propeller shaft and the
battery. Keep in mind that the battery should be readily
fin. Do this several times. If one wing always drops when you lift
removable to allow it to cool, and in case you have additional
the model, that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding
battery packs. Note: If using Velcro to mount the battery,
weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally
reinforce the fuselage with two 3/4" [19mm] wide strips of
balanced will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa. Additionally, only a couple of
1/4" [6mm] wide strips of Velcro are required to secure the
battery–do not use a whole sheet as we did in the photo. Set the Control Throws
Otherwise, you may damage the model while removing the
battery! ❏ 1. For safety, remove the propeller from the motor. Move
the throttle stick to the off position, or towards you. Connect
a charged battery to the speed control. Turn on the
transmitter, then follow the instructions that came with your
speed control to turn on the receiver.

Warning: Whenever the model is not being flown or set

up, the battery should be disconnected.

❏ 8. Mount the receiver and speed control to one of the

fuse sides or to the fuse top deck with Velcro or double- ❏ 2. Center the trims on the transmitter. If necessary,
sided foam mounting tape. If the speed control has a switch, remove the servo arms from the servos, and then remount
install it on the fuselage side. them so they are centered.
33
❏ 3. Operate the servos by moving the control sticks. Check
that the servos respond in the correct direction as shown in PREFLIGHT
the diagram. If necessary, use the servo reversing function
in your transmitter to get the controls to respond correctly.

❏ 4. Now that the servos and the servo arms are centered, Charge the Transmitter Batteries
center the rudder and elevator by adjusting the position of
the forward wire pushrod ends inside the pushrod tubes. Follow the instructions that came with your radio to charge
Permanently glue the pushrod ends in the pushrod tubes the batteries the evening before you plan to fly. You should
with thin CA. Carefully bend the aileron torque rods or the always charge the transmitter batteries before flying and at
pushrods until both ailerons are centered. other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.

Identify Your Model

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if you

fly somewhere on your own, you should always have your
name, address, telephone number and AMA number on or
inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club flying sites
and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification tag
on page 37 and place it on or inside your model.

❏ 5. Operate the controls with the transmitter and use a

ruler to measure the throws. If necessary, reposition the
pushrods on the servo arms (farther out for more throw,
closer in for less throw), or use the ATV function on the
Ground Inspection
transmitter to set the control throws according to the chart
that follows. Before you fly you should perform one last overall inspection
to make sure the model is truly ready to fly and that you
haven’t overlooked anything. If you are not thoroughly
These are the recommended control surface throws: familiar with the operation of R/C models, ask an
experienced modeler to perform the inspection. Check to
High Rate Low Rate see that you have the radio installed correctly and that all
ELEVATOR: 5/8" [16mm] up 7/16" [11mm] up the controls are connected properly. The motor must also be
5/8" [16mm] down 7/16" [11mm] down checked by confirming that the prop is rotating in the correct
direction and the motor sounds like it is reaching full power.
RUDDER: 1-1/2" [38mm] right 1" [25.4mm] right Make certain all control surfaces (elevators, rudder,
1-1/2" [38mm] left 1" [25.4mm] left ailerons) are secure, the pushrods are connected, the
controls respond in the correct direction, radio components
AILERONS: 7/16" [11mm] up 5/16" [8mm] up are securely mounted, and the C.G. is correct.
5/16" [8mm] down 1/4" [6.4mm] down

IMPORTANT: The RV-4 Park Flyer has been extensively

tested. These are the control throws at which it flies best. Range Check
If, after you become comfortable with the way the RV-4
Park Flyer flies, you would like to adjust the throws to suit Ground check the operational range of your radio before the
your taste, that is fine. However, remember that too much first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
throw can make the plane more difficult to control and and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to
force it into a stall or a snap roll, so remember, “more is walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
not always better.” control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
❏ 6. Disconnect the receiver battery and switch off doing. Repeat this test with the motor running at various
the transmitter. speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and
correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections
or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors,
poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or
a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.
34
 PERFORMANCE TIPS MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Cycle the Batteries Note: Failure to follow these safety precautions may
result in severe injury to yourself and others.
For the longest flight duration, and to get the most from a new
battery, the battery should be cycled. “Cycling” a battery means Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
to fully charge (“peak” charge) the battery, then to discharge it. operate motors.
Many battery chargers have peak charging and automatic
discharging capabilities. If you do not have a charger that is able Use safety glasses when running motors.
to discharge batteries, you can discharge the battery yourself by
running the motor with the propeller attached until the propeller Do not run the motor in an area of loose gravel or sand; the
barely continues to turn. Charge and discharge the battery 3 or propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
4 more times on the ground before flying. Be sure to remove the
battery from the airplane between each cycle and allow it to cool Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from
before recharging. the path of the propeller as you start and run the motor.

Lithium batteries do not need to be cycled. Keep items such as these away from the prop: loose
clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects
(pencils, screwdrivers) that may fall out of shirt or jacket
Examine the Propeller pockets into the prop.

Use fine sandpaper to remove imperfections along the The electric motor and battery used in your RV-4 Park Flyer
edges of the propeller. For the best performance, use a Top are very powerful and the spinning propeller has a lot of
Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™ (TOPQ5700) to momentum; therefore, if you touch the propeller while it is
balance the propellers. spinning it may inflict severe injury. Respect the motor and
propeller for the damage it is capable of and take whatever
precautions are necessary to avoid injury. Always
Motor Care disconnect and remove the battery until you are ready to fly
again and always make sure the switches are turned off
1. Using multiple battery packs for successive flights may before connecting the battery.
cause the motor to become excessively hot, thus causing
damage. Allow the motor to cool for at least 10-20 minutes
between flights.
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)
2. The ideal power source for the RV-4 Park Flyer system is
an 8-cell (9.6 volt) battery pack. The use of a higher voltage
battery may reduce motor life. The recommended motors Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
are very high performance and care must be taken to Aeronautics Official Safety Code:
prevent the motor from overheating. If a 3-cell Lithium
Polymer battery is used, full power must be minimized as GENERAL
this will over-voltage the motor. For additional suggestions 1. I will not fly my model aircraft in competition or in the
on motor care and lifespan, see the “Decisions You Must presence of spectators until it has been proven to be airworthy
Make” section at the front of this manual. by having been previously successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately

Oil the Wheels 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right of way to and avoid flying in
If taking off from the ground, the wheels must spin freely. the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an
Check the wheels for binding when moved from side to side observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having
and put a drop of oil on each axle. models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the

flying site I use and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name

and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
35
RADIO CONTROL AND to teach you how to fly. No matter how stable or
1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground “forgiving” the RV-4 Park Flyer is, attempting to learn to fly
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model. on your own is dangerous and may result in destruction of
your model or even injury to yourself and others. Therefore,
2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of find an instructor and fly only under his or her guidance and
spectators until I become a qualified flyer, unless assisted supervision until you have acquired the skills necessary for
by an experienced helper. safe and fully controlled operation of your model.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit,
spectator and parking areas and I will not thereafter perform Takeoff
maneuvers, flights of any sort or landing approaches over a
pit, spectator or parking area. We recommend flying the RV-4 Park Flyer when the wind is
no greater than ten miles per hour. Less experienced flyers
4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies should fly the RV-4 Park Flyer only in calm (less than one
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission. mile per hour) conditions. Frequently, winds are calm in the
early morning and early evening. Often these are the most
enjoyable times to fly anyway!
FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY
Until you have the RV-4 Park Flyer properly trimmed for level
flight, we recommend having an assistant hand-launch the
Though the RV-4 Park Flyer is a “Park Flyer,” the best place to model instead of taking off from the ground.
fly any model is at an AMA chartered club field. Club fields are
set up for R/C flying, making your outing safer and more Turn on the transmitter and plug the battery into the speed
enjoyable. We recommend that you join the AMA and a local control. Turn on the receiver by following the instructions that
club so you can have a safe place to fly and have insurance to came with your speed control.
cover you in case of a flying accident. The AMA address and
telephone number are in the front of this manual. IMPORTANT: Confirm that the transmitter operates the
controls by moving the sticks and watching the surfaces
If there is no club or R/C flying field in your area, find a respond. Occasionally, electric models have been launched
suitable site that is clear of trees, telephone poles, buildings, with the transmitter turned off or the battery disconnected
towers, busy streets and other obstacles. Since you are not from the speed control!
flying at a sanctioned AMA site, be aware that there may be
others like yourself who could be flying nearby. If both of your When ready to launch, the assistant should hold the bottom
models happen to be on the same frequency, interference will of the fuselage behind the landing gear, then raise the
likely cause one or both of the models to crash. An acceptable model high above his head and point it into the wind. With
minimum distance between flying sites is five miles, so keep the pilot (that would be you!) standing behind the plane, fully
this in mind when searching for a flying site. advance the throttle to start the motor. As soon as the motor
is at full power, the hand launcher should gently toss the
In addition to obstacles, it is important to be aware of people plane into the air at a level or slightly nose-up attitude. Be
who may wander into the area once you begin flying. At certain the model is being launched into the wind and be
AMA club flying sites it is a severe rule infraction to fly over immediately ready to make corrections to keep the airplane
others, and this is a good practice if flying elsewhere. R/C flying straight, level and into the wind.
models tend to attract onlookers whose numbers can soon
multiply, forming small, uncontrolled crowds. Onlookers When the model has gained adequate flying speed under its
pose two main problems: First is the danger of actually own power, gently pull the elevator stick back until the
crashing your model into a person, causing injury. Second is airplane starts a gradual climb. Many beginners tend to pull
the distraction of those who ask you questions while you are too hard causing the model to stall, so be gentle on the
trying to concentrate on flying. To minimize or avoid this elevator and don’t panic. If you do pull too hard and you
problem, have an assistant standing by who can spot notice the model losing speed, release the elevator stick
people who wander into your flying site (so you can avoid and allow the model to regain airspeed.
flying over them) and who can perform “crowd control” if
people start to gather. Continue a gradual climb and establish a gentle turn (away
from yourself) until the airplane reaches an altitude of 75 to
100 feet.
FLYING
Flight
IMPORTANT: If you are an inexperienced modeler we
strongly urge you to seek the assistance of a competent, The main purpose of the first few flights is to learn how the
experienced R/C pilot to check your model for airworthiness model behaves and to adjust the trims for level flight. After
36
the model has climbed to a safe altitude reduce the throttle heading down the runway and into the wind. Make
slightly to slow the model, yet maintain altitude. The RV-4 corrections with the rudder to keep it rolling straight into the
Park Flyer should fly well and maintain adequate airspeed wind. If the model veers too far off, cut the throttle and try
at about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. again. As the model begins to gain speed the controls will
become effective.
Adjust the elevator trim so the model flies level at the throttle
setting you are using. Adjust the aileron trim and rudder trim After the airplane has gained adequate speed (this requires
to level the wings. It may take a few passes to get the trims experience to gauge), gently pull back on the elevator stick
adjusted, but this should be your first priority once at a allowing the airplane to become airborne. Establish a gentle
comfortable altitude. Continue to fly around, executing turns climb the same as when you were hand-launching.
and making mental notes (or having your assistant take
notes for you) of what additional adjustments or C.G. Best of luck and happy flying!
changes may be required to fine tune the model so it flies
the way you like.

If the RV-4 Park Flyer reaches a high enough altitude, you

may periodically cut off the motor power and glide. This may
extend the flight time by several minutes, especially if you fly
into a rising air current.

Landing

Because the RV-4 Park Flyer flies slowly, it requires little

room to land. Begin the landing approach by flying
downwind at an altitude of approximately 20 feet [6 meters].
When the airplane is approximately 50 to 100 feet [15 to 30
meters] past you, cut-off the motor power and make the
“final” 180° turn into the wind, aligning the airplane with the
runway or landing area. Do not dive the airplane, as it will
pick up too much speed. Instead, when you cut the power,
allow the airplane to establish a gradual descent.
Concentrate on keeping it heading into the wind toward the OTHER ITEMS AVAILABLE FROM
runway. When the plane reaches an altitude of about 3 feet
[1 meter], gently apply a little “up elevator” to level the plane, GREAT PLANES
but be careful as too much up elevator will cause it to stall.
While holding a slight amount of up elevator the airplane will
slow and descend as it loses flying speed, thus touching
down on the runway.

Until you are able to accurately judge how far the RV-4 Park
Flyer can glide, it may be helpful to reserve some battery power
to run the motor so the plane can be flown back to the runway.

ROG (Rise off Ground) Takeoff

When speaking of small models, frequently a takeoff from the

ground is called an “ROG” (rise off ground) takeoff. Landings Great Planes RV-4
on grass will be a little rough, but doing a ROG takeoff from A natural for Sunday sport flying with a .40, the 54.65" span
grass will probably not be possible with the RV-4 Park Flyer. RV-4 can also be an agile aerobat with a .46. Either way, it’s
If planning an ROG takeoff, find a paved surface. a fast “build” – and a good fit – for intermediates. Precision-
formed ABS parts add detail with minimum work. Under the
After you have trimmed the RV-4 Park Flyer for flight and butyrate canopy, the cockpit includes rollover bar and
have become familiar with its flight characteristics, you may instrument panels. Performance is realistic, too, with easy
execute ROG takeoffs. With the model on the runway and low-speed handling and dual aileron servos. Flaps can be
pointing into the wind, gently apply power. Initially, the plane added, and the nylon mount adjusts to fit a wide engine
may turn to the left or right because it has not gained range. Requires a 2-stroke .40 – .52 or 4-stroke .48 – .70
enough speed for the controls to become effective. Do your engine, Pitts-style muffler, 4–5 channel radio w/5–7 servos
best to get through this brief moment and maintain a (5 channel radio w/7 servos for optional flaps). GPMA0180
37
 lightweight, fiber-reinforced, sealed gear case resists
damage and keeps out dust and debris. Paired with a
280-size motor, it helps draw the maximum climbing power
and flight times from every battery mAh. It uses a brass
pinion gear for strength and a nylon main gear for quiet, low-
friction operation. GPMG0200

Great Planes ElectriFly™ C-20 Electronic Speed Control

Vibration-resistant SMT components in the C-20 Mini ESC
save space and work with built-in BEC to reduce weight. A
Safe Start feature prevents unintentional motor starts. High-
frequency switching enhances smooth throttle response
and minimizes waste heat production. Three ceramic
capacitors minimize motor noise for better reception; a low-
voltage cut-off reserves power for safe landings. The C-20
also offers the convenience of an ON/OFF radio switch and
set-up LED, as well as a Schottky diode for efficiency, plus ElectriFly by Great Planes Triton™ Peak Charger
factory-installed Futaba® “J” and standard connectors; Imagine a charger so versatile it can be used with lithium-
thermal shutdown; reverse polarity protection; and a 180-day ion and lead-acid batteries as effectively as NiCd and NiMH
warranty. GPMM2020 cells. A unit that can peak charge tiny park flyer packs and
24V car batteries alike. A charger that can discharge as well
as charge, cycle packs from 1 to 10 times automatically,
memorize peak and average battery voltages for each cycle
– and constantly display battery capacity, voltage, current
and time as each cycle progresses. Then, imagine that the
charger, which can do all this, is about the size of a thick
paperback book, and weighs just over a pound. The
advanced computer technology in the Triton Peak Charger
makes it possible to accomplish all this and more, through
controls and menus so simple that programming is a
breeze. For more information, log on at www.electrifly.com –
and be amazed. 1-year warranty. GPMM3150
Great Planes ElectriFly S-280 Ferrite BB Motor
Compact electric park flyer models demand high power in
an efficient package – and it’s supplied by this 7.2–8.4V,
speed 280-size motor from ElectriFly. Among its features
are ball bearings, a single-wind armature, factory-installed
capacitors, and a factory-installed 2-pin connector designed
to plug into Great Planes ElectriFly C-5 or C-10 electronic
speed controls. GPMG0305

Great Planes C.G. Precision Aircraft Balancer™

Accurate balancing makes trainers more stable, low-wings
more agile, and pylon planes move at maximum speed. The
innovative C.G. Machine helps you achieve optimum balance
easily, without measuring or marking–and without the errors
that fingertip balancing can cause. You’ll quickly pinpoint your
plane’s exact center of gravity. Then you’ll know at a glance
Great Planes ElectriFly S-280 Gearbox whether weight should be added, removed or relocated. The
Developed for low noise and low maintenance, this Great C.G. Machine works with kits and ARF models of any size and
Planes ElectriFly gearbox features a 5:1 gear ratio and uses wingspan. Its slanted wire balancing posts support models
standard bronze bushings for long-lasting sport use. A weighing up to 40 pounds. GPMR2400
38
BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchased Date: _______________________ Date Construction Finished: _________________

Where Purchased:_________________________ Finished Weight: __________________________

Date Construction Started: __________________ Date of First Flight: ________________________

FLIGHT LOG

39
 TWO VIEW DRAWING
Use copies of this page to plan your trim scheme
B C
D A