/// CY CL I NG MADE SI MPL E

MADE SIMPLE
CYCLING

K A T I E B U T L E R
CONTENTS

MY STORY ///////////////////////////////////////////////// 4

CHOOSING YOUR BIKE ///////////////////////////////////////////////// 7

CYCLING CLOTHING
///////////////////////////////////////////////// 15

///////////////////////////////////////////////// 21
LEARNING TO RIDE

ROADSIDE REPAIRS
///////////////////////////////////////////////// 27

DROPPING WEIGHT
///////////////////////////////////////////////// 34

COMMUTING TO WORK
///////////////////////////////////////////////// 40

LOCKING YOUR BIKE ///////////////////////////////////////////////// 46

/ /
RECORDING / NAVIGATING RIDES ///////////////////////////////////////////////// 50
S I M P L E

BIKE MAINTENANCE ///////////////////////////////////////////////// 54

MINDSET TO RIDE ///////////////////////////////////////////////// 57

M A D E

TRAINING PLANS 65
/////////////////////////////////////////////////

RIDING AN EVENT ///////////////////////////////////////////////// 71

C Y C L I N G

WHAT NEXT? ///////////////////////////////////////////////// 75

2
 Greetings to the ultimate cycling eBook…

You want to ride a bike, but it can be quite daunting. You want to go
on adventures but you’re thinking where do I even start? Which bike
should I choose? How much do I need to spend? Do I need to wear
Lycra? Is it safe to ride on the roads? How do I ride in traffic? Are
cleats easy to get used to? What even are cleats?
WELCOME

Don’t worry - you will find the answers to all of these questions in this
guide, along with a lot more knowledge to help you kickstart or move
you along your cycling journey. Also, don’t worry, you aren’t alone in
having a million and one questions. These were ALL the questions I
had in 2014 before I bought my first road bike and since then, that
simple machine of a bicycle has completely changed my life for the
better. I have become fitter, lost more than 35kg and have a whole

/ /
new social group of fit cyclists who inspire and encourage me to go
further than I ever thought possible. S I M P L E

Cycling WILL make a positive impact on your life so I wanted to

create a full and comprehensive guide for someone like yourself, who
M A D E

is completely new to cycling, or has started out and wants to

improve. This guide will take out the guess work out of what to do,
C Y C L I N G

what to buy, and save you hours of research.

This guide is designed to answer all the questions I had as a

beginner - especially the questions I felt too embarrassed to ask.

You ready? Here goes…

3
CHAPTER 1

WE ALL START SOMEWHERE

Before we get into the info and tips I wanted you to learn a little more about me and where
I came into the wonderful world of cycling.

I had always loved sport, especially running. I ran London Marathon in 2013 but after
several injuries I decided I wanted to give cycling a go so used my Grandad’s old Raleigh
mountain bike to get to work and bike (3 miles each way) and sometimes I would ride it to
the gym. Fast forward a few months, I decided to take a year out of my job as a journalist
so in August 2013 I travelled to Australia. I had 30kg of clothes, hair extensions, make up,
hair curlers and straighteners with me. You name it, I had taken it on my backpacking
adventure. But I decided I wanted to buy a bike and a cycling local (Durianrider if any of
you know him) suggested going to Giant. I was unsure as I had so much stuff already with
me and buying a bike would mean getting rid of most of it as I couldn’t carry both so I had
a decision to make.

I chose the bike.

I decided at that point I use a chunk of my money I had saved for travelling and use it on
an entry level, women’s Giant/Liv Avail road bike. I was a complete novice at this point
and while handed over the cash I asked the guy in the Giant shop, “How do I work the
gears?”. His face said everything. He politely just smiled and said, “You’ll figure it out”. So
just so you know, we all have to start somewhere and my cycling journey started there.

So I went out riding in a city I didn’t know. It was daunting, exciting, fun, scary but the main
thing was, I actually felt like a kid again. Weird how cycling can do that to you. I felt free.

I struggled getting up hills, I say hills, I mean bumps in the road really (especially with
those pesky gears I didn’t know how to use!). But after a few weeks I got the hang of it
and slowly started to ride further and further. At first it was the few kms into Adelaide

/ /
centre, and then it got further and further. I remember my first ever 60km ride. I went out to
the beach and back in a day. It was hot. It was brutal. But I felt so accomplished. S I M P L E

From then I took my bike with me on the rest of my year out - which meant leaning how to
M A D E

take it apart and put it in a box for airline travel. I then rode around part of Malaysia,
Vietnam, and Thailand. I explored so many more places that I would have by foot and I felt
truly part of my surroundings. I don’t think there is a better way to explore a place than on
C Y C L I N G

a bike. I wasn’t doing any big distances by any means, I was just exploring the towns,
cities and countryside leisurely.

4
CHAPTER 1

CONTINUING THE JOURNEY…

After my adventures abroad I ventured home back to the UK with my bike. It was odd
leaving home with 30kg of luggage and then arriving back with just a bike and small
backpack. It sounds cliché to say it but that trip, and buying that bike completely changed
me as a person. I was no longer caught up in make up, clothes and how my hair looked.
But more about my experiences I guess and the bike allowed for that change to take
place.

From then I gradually kept increasing my distance - riding to and from work, and joining a
local club to ride the roads I had grown up around but never really knew existed until riding
along them on two wheels.

Then I entered my first sportive, then my first audax (a long distance ride that is
unsupported) and then my first mountain.

What followed were more mountains, day rides that turned into overnight rides and then
into multi-day rides. I have now ridden 600km in one ride, as well as several other 400kms
- and also done multiple day events such as riding Land’s End to John o’Groats (furthest
two points in Britain), and climbed so many incredible mountains across the world.

I could barely even change a flat tyre at the start of my cycling journey, but now I can do a
lot of my own mechanics.

I don’t say this to brag but to show that ANYONE can do what I have done. I’ve made
mistakes along the way and had a massive learning curve to get me where I am which is
the whole reason for creating this guide for you.

So you get all the information, tips, and hacks I have picked up over the years, in one
complete guide - which is simple to read and follow.

/ /
I really hope I can help inspire and encourage you on your cycling journey.
S I M P L E

Also… pretty much all of my cycling journey has been captured on my YouTube channel
so if you want the back story go back on my channel a good few years - and it’s all there.
M A D E

We all start somewhere.

C Y C L I N G

5
CHAPTER 1
A JOURNEY IN PICTURES
What better way to share my cycling journey than sharing photographs over the past five years.
I don’t think I could have been any more of a beginner if I had tried - so this guide is intended to give you
practical advice that I have learned along the way.

/ /
S I M P L E

Photos 1-12 (from top L-R).

1. Feb 2014 - I had just bought my first road bike and rode up my first ever hill. It took me around 2 hours to ride a 5km climb.
2. July 2014 - I rode up my first ever 11km climb. This again took me so long but loved the challenge.
M A D E

3. August 2014 - This was part of my commute, and it was pouring with rain. But I was happy to be riding.
4. October 2015 - I climbed Holme Moss in the Peak District, UK. I was petrified before riding it that I wouldn’t be able to do it.
5. May 2016 - I rode my first ever sportive by myself (without friends). It was 84km / 1500m elevation and I was so proud.
C Y C L I N G

6. September 2016 - I attempted the steepest climb in England; Hardknott Pass. This was at the top - after I walked part of the way.
7. March 2017 - I got the QOM on Mount Teide in Tenerife - 40km climb and 2,500m elevation.
8. June 2017 - Towards the end of a ride to the highest point in Thailand - 200km and around 3,000m elevation. It was hard - I’m ready to sleep.
9. April 2018 - My first ever 300km ride. I was, again, very nervous to attempt it but I was so proud and excited I had done it.
10. August 2018 - A 130km ride with 5,000m elevation - the most climbing I had ever done in such a short distance.
11. September 2018 - I rode from Land’s End to John o’Groats - all 1400km of it in nine days.
12. October 2018 - I rode from San Francisco to LA in seven days via the Mojave desert.

6
 /// CY CL I NG MADE SI MPL E

CHOOSING
YOUR BIKE
CHAPTER 2
WHAT TYPE OF RIDER AM I?
This is more of a way of getting you thinking than actually asking the question and expecting a definitive
answer.

Are you wanting a bike to literally commute to work? Are you wanting to ride so you can cycle with your
family? Do you want to be become the fittest you have ever been? Are you interested in racing? Are you
thinking about triathlons? Do you want to tour across countries? Do you want to be a fast club rider? Or do
you want to literally ride to the shops and back?

The reason I ask this at the very start of this guide is that there are so many different variations of cyclist
and you can fit into one or all of the above. I think for me that is what I love about cycling - there are so
many different possibilities of what being a cyclist is all about.

Again, these are just ideas to get you thinking and hopefully inspiring the type of rider you will or can
become. There is a type of cycling that can suit everyone’s needs and schedules.

I only ever intended to start riding as a way to get to work and try and lose a bit of weight.
I never, ever thought I would be riding the distances I am or the races I am now riding.

So let’s get stuck in, shall we?

“RI DE AS MUCH
OR AS LITTLE, AS
LONG OR AS
SH ORT AS Y OU

/ /
FEE L. B UT RID E .”
EDDY MERCKX S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

8
CHAPTER 2
WHICH BIKE TO CHOOSE?
This might seem like an extremely open ended question, but this will determine which bike is right for you.
Will you be riding on trails, commuting, climbs, gravel, mountains? What type of rider do you think you will
be?

There has recently been an influx of new types of bike rather than the traditional road and mountain bike.
There are now gravel and adventure bikes which are great for multi-terrain riding. But for me I have loved
a regular road like. They can handle a lot more than you think. Mine has been great for commutes, great
for social rides with friends and also for smashing up mountains. There is a lot of choice out there so you
really need to determine what type of riding you want to be doing.

QUESTIONS TO ASK YOURSELF ///

- What will be my primary use for the bike?

- What are the conditions like where I will ride?
- Can I see myself wanting to progress on this bike?
- How often do I plan on riding?
- Do I need suspension?
- Will I want to commute and ride socially?
- Do I plant on carrying a lot on the bike?
- How big is my budget?
- Do I want comfort or to be aero?

T Y P E S O F B I K E S A N D T H E I R M A I N U S E S

ROAD: Road bikes are mainly used on the road but can handle canal paths for example. These are
generally light-weight.

/ /
But there are different styles of road bike including endurance, race, aero geometries.

S I M P L E
MOUNTAIN BIKE (MTB): These are used off-road on rough and rugged trails. They are heavier than
road bikes and have flat handlebars.
M A D E

HYBRID: These are a mixture between a mountain bike and road bike and are mainly used for
commuting or bridleways. They have flat handlebars.
C Y C L I N G

CROSS BIKE (CX): Cross bikes are a race geometry with clearance for wider tyres used in mud in
cyclocross races.

GRAVEL: Gravel bikes are a fairly new style of bike that are generally relaxed geometry and have
clearance for wide tyres, and in some cases mountain bike wheels and tyres.

9
CHAPTER 2
HOW MUCH TO SPEND?
So now you have determined which type of bike is right for you, there are a few variations of road bikes.
There are endurance, race and aero geometries. So to be clear if it’s your first road bike and you are
starting out my advice is an endurance bike. These have a more relaxed geometry and will be comfier to
ride. Don’t worry, if you look at different brands they will state what type of bike they are. So just go for an
endurance style - unless you are getting straight into racing. I have made a list of different brands offering
these on the next page.

Ok so now now we get on to cost. I will make this really simple - go for the best that you can afford. I was
travelling when I bought my road bike (after buying a second hand mountain bike for $10 that was not fun
to ride) and still to this day it was worth every single penny. It was worth making sacrifices in other areas to
be able to afford it. Years later it’s still a bike I ride.

Cheaper components don’t run as smoothly, they don't feel as good which in turn makes the ride less
enjoyable. This is not to say you need the most expensive bike out there, you don’t. Let me explain.

When a bike goes past entry level the rise in cost is all about weight saving. I have found that after
spending the initial £600-£700 on a bike for example, spending double on a carbon one doesn't necessarily
mean twice the comfort. However, the difference between a £200 and £600 bike makes a huge difference.
That’s because after the entry level alloy bike, it’s all about weight saving. The cost goes up as weight
saving for the bike goes down.
So I would say around £600 is a good starting point to ensure you get a bike that fits you perfectly and fits
your need. Think of this bike as an investment into your health. Save cash from unused gym memberships,
try eating out less, save until you get the bike that is going to be perfect for you and encourage you to ride
and explore.

WHAT MAKES A ‘GOOD’ BIKE?

/ /
For an entry level road bike, alloy is perfect. Robust, strong and pretty light. But what is going to make the
difference to how a bike feels while riding are the components. These are the moving parts of the bike.
S I M P L E
The shifters, brakes, cranks, rear mech, derailleur.

So go for the best components you can on the bike. Each brand has a top end groupset (name of all of the
M A D E

parts grouped together) that will be expensive but very light, and a lower-end. I have grouped each
manufacturer together so you can see from top downwards. There are so many other brands, but these
are the main three.
C Y C L I N G

SHIMANO: D u r a A c e , Ultegra , 1 0 5 , T i a gra , Sora, Claris.

SRAM: Red, Force , Rival , Apex.

CAMPAGNOLO: Super Record , Record , Chorus , Potenza , Centaur

10
CHAPTER 2
BIKES TO CHOOSE FROM
Now you have decided how much you want to spend, it’s time to actually find a bike. I personally wouldn’t
go for a carbon bike as a first bike. They are more expensive and yes they are generally lighter, but aren’t
as hard wearing as alloy. I have loved my alloy Liv Avail, and it’s stood the test of time and around 30
flights.

Also, rim or disc brakes are completely up to you. I have found that mechanical disc brakes aren’t as
responsive as hydraulic but hydraulic are more expensive. I do really like rim brakes too. But it’s personal
preference on what feels better for you.

One thing I would suggest making an ESSENTIAL is compact cranks (50/34) with a minimum of a 32
cassette on the back. If you don’t know what that means (as I didn’t) it’s the size of the front ring and the
largest cog at the back - meaning for easier riding. I will explain more in the next chapter.

Below are just some of the bikes I recommend. I have chosen these are they are big brands that are
going to available in a lot of countries across the world.

W O M E N ’ S R O A D B I K E S

Giant Avail 1, 2, 3 (£725 / £525/ £480) Cannondale Synapse Claris (£700)

Specialized Dolce (£575) Cannondale Synapse Sora (£800)
Specialized Dolce Sport (£750) Cube Axial WLS (£599)
Trek Lexa 2 (£625) Canyon Endurace (£800)
Trek Lexa 3 (£750)
Trek Lexa 4 (£900)

M E N ’ S R O A D B I K E S / /
S I M P L E

Giant Contend 1 (£725) Cannondale Synapse Claris (£700)

M A D E

Giant Contend 2 (£575) Cannondale Synapse Sora (£800)

Giant Contend SL 1 (£999) Trek 1.1 (£625) Needs 32 cassette
Giant Contend SL 2 (£849) Trek 1.2 (£750) Needs 32 cassette
C Y C L I N G

Specialized Allez (£575)

Specialized Allez Sport (£750) .

.
.

11
.
CHAPTER 2
ESSENTIAL ACCESSORIES
H E L M E T

Helmets are not compulsory in the UK compared to Australia where they are required by law. But my advice
has been and always will be; WEAR A HELMET. What would you rather your son, daughter, mum, dad,
boyfriend, girlfriend did? If you can give yourself some protection IF you come off your bike, why wouldn’t
you?
I actually came off my bike on some black ice in the UK and hit my head on the floor and thankfully I had a
helmet on so just came away with a sore wrist. I don’t ever ride without a helmet - even if it’s a short ride.
Buying a helmet is totally down to personal preference and would suggest you try on at least three or more
on to see which fit your head the best. Also, I see so many people riding around with a helmet on and the
clip unfastened or the helmet is so far back on the head it’s not actually fully protecting your skull. So make
sure it fits, and it worn securely.

W A T E R B O T T L E

This probably sounds so basic but when I first started riding I didn’t take water with me. It wasn’t until a
much more experienced rider told me it was essential to always have water. The number one rule is drink
before you’re thirsty. Hydration is key to being able to ride efficiently. Studies have shown a drop in
hydration, as little as 5% from sweating, can cause heat exhaustion. Even if you’re in a cooler climate your
body is still working and losing fluid. So drink up.

P U N C T U R E R E P A I R K I T

Always carry a puncture repair kit and a hand pump and be able to know how to use them all. Honestly
when I first started riding I dreaded getting flats as it used to take me so long to repair them. So I would
suggest practicing taking your wheel off, taking off the tyre and taking the tube out and then putting them
back together. It can seem really frustrating at first but honestly it gets easier the more you do it. I have

/ /
filmed quite a few videos on my YouTube channel of how to do this if you are unsure. Always take a
puncture repair kit - no matter how short the ride it. You will thank me for it for one day. S I M P L E

M U L T I T O O L ( W I T H C H A I N B R E A K E R A N D S P L I T L I N K )
M A D E

This will be talked about more in the Roadside Repairs chapter.

C Y C L I N G

12
CHAPTER 2
SAD DLE C OMFOR T
This definitely needs mentioning from the minute you buy your first road bike; saddle comfort is so
important but also so subjective. Comfort in the saddle is important (goes without saying really) but so
many people just put up with the pain and they don’t need to as there are so many saddles out there to suit
us all. Ensuring saddle comfort means you will ride further and for longer, and find it way more enjoyable.

But here is the difficult part; there is not a single saddle that works for everybody as we are all different and
ride in different positions.

One bit of advice in finding a saddle that is comfortable is try out as many as you can. There are ones that
have channels cut out of the centre of the saddle, ones with more padding, ones with less padding, curved
saddles, flat saddles. There is one that will work for you but it’s just about finding it.

W A Y S T O N A R R O W D O W N F I N D I N G Y O U R P E R F E C T S A D D L E

- Go for gender specific. This isn’t a hard and fast rule but generally women’s saddles have been tested
and created for women and the same for men’s saddles. So try out a few different ones for your gender. I
personally find cut out saddles work really well for me.

- Use a saddle for your cycling discipline. This means using a road saddle on a road bike. Again this isn’t a
hard and fast rule but saddle designed for time trials are designed for an aggressive riding position.

- Select the correct width. It’s still disputed whether or not sit bone width is important while choosing a
saddle (some studies have shown a person with wide sit bones are comfiest on the narrowest saddle where
it would be assumed they would prefer the widest). I had my sit bones measured and was offered a saddle
and that is the saddle I still use and find it incredibly comfortable - even on rides of 300km+. So sit bone
width is a good place to start. Most good bike shops offer this or you can do it yourself with some foil (have
a search how to do this). Basically place the foil on a chair and sit onto it. Measure the two deepest

/ /
indentation points and that is your sit bone width.
S I M P L E
- Many bike fitters now have saddle pressure mapping and can find a saddle that will suit you. The
pressure mapping is a way of showing where the pressure is while you’re in the saddle. The saddle’s
position can be moved to distribute weight better or a new saddle can be tested to find a better position.
M A D E

This can be quite expensive but it is an option. This is how I found my saddle that I currently use.
C Y C L I N G

13
CHAPTER 2
QUESTION AND ANSWER
S H O U L D I B U Y S E C O N D H A N D ?
Q:
I am all for recycling and trying to be resourceful but unless it’s the right size and
you know the person well and know they haven’t crashed the bike, then it would
be ok to do that. But personally for your first road bike it’s worth the extra cash to
A: be able to get set up on it properly in the bike shop, and also be able to go back
and ask questions and get advice.

S H O U L D I G O F O R C A R B O N ?

Q:
Ahhhh carbon. There is absolutely nothing wrong with buying and riding a carbon
bike but my opinion is you are probably best to go for alloy for your first bike. You
are bound to knock the bike, maybe fall off and it’s not worth the expense having
A: to repair it if it fractures or cracks. I am a huge alloy fan and they are definitely
more robust than carbon. Also alloy is considerably cheaper.

D O I N E E D G E N D E R S P E C I F I C ?

Q:
I would say yes. The only reason I say this is from experience of looking at men’s
bikes for me the bars are way too wide and the stem too long. I think female
specific bikes are great, but it you can fit comfortably on a male bike, or a male on
A: a female then go for it. Try before you buy - always!

/ /
S I M P L E

W H A T I F I ’ M I N B E T W E E N F R A M E S I Z E S ?

Q: This is a problem I have and it’s a difficult one to answer without seeing you and
M A D E

the bike. Sometimes you can lengthen out a smaller frame with a longer stem, but
if reach is too long there’s only so much you can do to shorten it. It would be best
A: to speak to the bike shop, or your local bike fitter. I have videos on my channel
C Y C L I N G

about this with a professional bike fitter if you would like more detail.

14
 /// CY CL I NG MADE SI MPL E

CLOTHING
CYCLING
CHAPTER 3
I S LY C R A E S S E N T I A L ?

C Y C L I N G C L O T H I N G A N D W H A T I S B E S T F O R Y O U

Now for the fun part… LYCRA! I had the exact thought you are having right now. “It’s tight, it shows off
every lump and bump, I will look ridiculous!”

We all think that at first and to be honest, for the first year of having a bike not one piece of Lycra entered
my wardrobe. Fast forward to today and it makes up the majority of my clothing. There are no rules that
say you have to wear Lycra to be a cyclist. Mountain bikers actually have some great, looser fitting gear if
that’s what you prefer.

But… once you get into a properly fitted, and I stress properly fitted, set of bib shorts and jersey, you just
feel a lot more comfortable and they make riding much more enjoyable. I found that bibs are great as they
don’t dig in like some leggings do and they don’t ride up or down.

The chamois or foam section of the bib shorts will make sitting in the saddle more comfortable on longer
rides so give them a try. You don’t have to spend a lot on a pair but this is one area where I would say to
invest your money. Try on a few different brands and see how you get on. Another aspect of cycling kit I
love is that the jerseys have pockets. I love pockets. They are perfect to carry your phone, keys, snacks,
a rain jacket. One thing to point out is you don’t need to wear underwear with bib shorts. A question we all
ask when we start out.

/ /
W E A R W H A T I S C O M F O R T A B L E

S I M P L E
Having said all of that, I actually didn’t feel comfortable wearing tight lycra at the start of my cycling
journey as I was carrying a lot of extra weight. So leggings and a t-shirt did me really well for the first year
of riding. What is most important is that you’re comfortable. Whether that’s shorts, leggings, bibs, hoody,
loose t-shirt, whatever. If you’re comfortable you will want to ride more so wear what you like.
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

16
CHAPTER 3
CLEAT S VS TRAINERS
WHICH IS RIGHT FOR YOU?

Cleats are basically attachments on the bottom of cycling shoes

that clip you into your pedals (you will need specific pedals to
“LIFE IS LIKE
match the type of cleat you choose). Just to note, the attachments
RIDING A
for your shoes come with the pedals - not the shoes.
BICYCLE. TO KEEP
YOUR BALANCE
The benefits of these mean you are able to utilise more of your leg YOU MUST KEEP
muscles through each leg stroke and an added benefit is they can MOVING.”
be actually safer in wet weather (your foot won’t slip off the pedals). -ALBERT EINSTEIN

I started off wearing trainers and flat pedals for around nine
months. But then I found the incredible world of cleats and never
went back. Even on short rides I prefer wearing cleats.

I was reluctant to use them (as most people initially are) for fear of
not being able to clip out at traffic lights, junctions etc. But to
practice, I would suggest wearing one trainer and one clipped in
shoe. Cycle up and down your drive, or alongside a wall and
practice. Wear the trainer on the foot you instinctively put on the
ground when stopping (for me it’s my left). So I wore the clipped in
shoe on my right foot just get a feel for how it felt to ride clipped in.
I would start and stop and then clip in and out as I was riding
steadily.

Keep doing that until you have done it a good 50-100 times. It
sounds a lot but it’s just practice and it then becomes as second
nature as riding a bike. Then when you feel you have got the hang

/ /
of it move on to using both clipped in. If you are really nervous ride
along a wall in case you need to prop yourself up if you can’t S I M P L E
unclip. But I can honestly say I don’t ever ride without clipped in
shoes now as it feels safer to be clipped in. I again have videos
from the time I learned how to do this - all on my channel.
M A D E

WORD OF WARNING!
C Y C L I N G

Don’t do what I did when I first got the pedals and shoes. I clipped the shoe onto the pedal while they were
in my hands. It’s almost impossible to get them unclipped with your hands as you need the weight of your
leg muscles to unclip. It took me a while and a pair of scissors to eventually get them prized apart.

17
CHAPTER 3
TYPES OF CLEATS
If you have decided that you want to give cleats a try - and I recommend that you do in time - there is still
one more choice you need to make; road or MTB cleats? There are types that protrude out from the shoe
and others that sit flush within the shoe. Whichever you choose they will help you utilise more muscles as
you are riding through the pedal stroke as you are able to pull up as well as push down.

I think it’s important to say here that toe clips, generally the plastic ‘cages’ that come on entry level road
bike pedals should be taken off. I personally think they are dangerous as your foot is literally strapped into
place. By having either types of these cleats and pedals you will be able to unclip and it will become
second nature. So let’s look at two of the main options…

R O A D ( S P D - S L / L O O K / S P E E D P L A Y )

These are the most common type of cleat worn by road riders. They have
an external plastic section that is clipped onto the pedal. Popular brands of
these type of cleat are LOOK, Speedplay, Shimano SPD SLs - there are a
lot out there. It is has been said these give the optimum power output and
also offer more flexibility in cleat position. The downside to this type is that
they are difficult to walk in. Not the easiest when you take a wrong turn
down descent on a dirt track and have to scramble back up. This happened
These are Shimano SPD-SL on a trip to a friend. But they do offer more flexibility in cleat set up.

M T B ( S P D )

These type of cleat are traditionally used by mountain bikers as this gives you
the flexibly to walk around easily as the cleat is actually flush with the shoe.
But recently many endurance riders such as audaxers, and those riding long
multi-day events have opted for these. I personally rode with with these for

/ /
the first 4 years of riding and found them really comfortable and practical.
S I M P L E
The only type of these out there are Shimano SPDs. The pedals can also be
adjusted as to how tight you are clipped in. So for example my pedals on my
commuter bike are very loose so I can clip out really easily while riding in
M A D E

traffic.
C Y C L I N G

The pictures are both my pairs of (well worn) shoes.

18
CHAPTER 3
ROAD VS MTB CLEATS
After riding in trainers for the first year of riding I switched over to MTB cleats and used them for the
following four years. I have since switched over to road cleats - specifically the Shimano SPD-SL system
so I wanted to share the pros and cons of both.

There are plenty of shoe options for both type of set up so you can really choose what is going to be right
for you. Personally, I tend to use MTB for commutes and rides where I might be walking around such as a
short tour over a few days where they will be my only pair of shoes. But for club rides and sportives I will
wear SPD-SL. To help you decide, let’s talk about the pros and cons of each.

M T B C L E A T S
P R O S C O N S

- Easier to clip in and out as you can - They are heavier than road shoes.
clip into each side of the pedal. - There are fewer options for the cleat
- Can walk around easily off the bike - position.
and why many use these type of - Cleat is smaller so more pressure on
shoes for cycle touring. one part of your foot.
- Long lasting. The cleats last for - Potentially less power transfer
years. (many tests have been done but
- Can adjust the tension of the pedal. nothing seems to be conclusive).

R O A D C L E A T S
P R O S C O N S

/ /
- Cleats generally have a wider - Cleats need replacing more
surface area so creates less frequently.
S I M P L E
pressure on your foot. - Harder to walk around while off the
- Lightweight bike.
- It has been said you get better - More difficult to clip in as you can
M A D E

power transfer with road shoes. only clip in on one side of the pedal
- More control over cleat position. (Speedplay are road cleats but you
can clip in both sides).
C Y C L I N G

- Can’t adjust the tension of the pedal.

19
CHAPTER 3
QUESTION AND ANSWER

I ’ M W O R R I E D A B O U T B E I N G C L I P P E D I N

Q: Don’t worry, we all are when we first try them out. But honestly just try one side
clipped in at first and get used to the feeling of clipping in and out. Most cyclists
have pulled up to a café stop when they first try cleats and forget to unclip and
A: wobble over. But now it’s so ingrained I automatically do it without thinking. Take
your time, ease into it and try those cleats.

H O W D O I S E T U P M Y C L E A T P O S I T I O N ?

Q: I found it was a case of trial and error. But further back is a general rule of thumb
(not just my advice but the advice of the physio / bike fitter to Team Sky and Team
GB). This is because if you think of stomping on an object you have more power
A: from the middle part of your foot than say the ball of your foot. You want the cleat
where the most power is coming from. If you are unsure head to your local bike
shop or better yet get a bike fit where this is part of the set-up.

W H I C H T Y P E O F R O A D C L E A T S H O U L D I G E T ?
Q:
With MTB there are only one type, Shimano SPD. But with road shoes there are
many different types; SPD SL, Speedplay, and Look. Each have their own pros
and cons so have a look into each and see which works best for you. The most
A:
common type of road shoe is Shimano SPD-SL, which is the one I currently use.

/ /
S I M P L E

W H I C H I S B E S T F O R C O M M U T I N G ?

Q: I personally prefer MTB for commutes as you can set the tension really loose on
M A D E

the pedal - which means it takes hardly any effort to clip out. I do this so that if I’m
in traffic and need to stop suddenly I can be clipped out much more easily. Again,
A: it’s personal preference.
C Y C L I N G

Q&A 20
 /// CY CL I NG MADE SI MPL E

TO RIDE
LEARNING
CHAPTER 4
A NEW ADVENTURE
Having a chapter on ‘Learning to Ride’ might seem a strange thing to explain because once you learn how
to ride a bike, you never forget, or so the saying goes. But when I first got my road bike it felt so alien to
the mountain bikes I had been used to before. This might seem basic for some people but if you’re not
sure, then read on.

GEARING: Changing gear is done depending on the gradient of the road. The steeper the road the lower
the gear, the flatter the road the higher the gear. This is done by using the shifters.

So the best way to get to know how this all works is get on the bike on a flat section of path or road
(obviously be careful if there are people walking by or cars on the road).

Start with the right shifter as this makes small adjustments to your cassette. Click the shifter to the left or
right and you will start to feel how this affects how hard it is to pedal. Move up and down the gears so you
can get used to it.

Then try the left shifter. Because this is creating a larger change in gear it takes a bit more effort to get
onto the big ring (which you would use on the flat or downhill).

It seems a bit skewed but:

Small chainring at the front and largest cassette cog = lowest gear for hills and other inclines.
Big chainring at the front and smallest cassette cog at the back = highest gearing for when you’re
on the flat or downhill.

“A BICYC LE RID E
AROUND TH E
WORLD BEGINS

/ /
WITH A SINGLE
S I M P L E
PEDAL STROKE.”
SC O TT STOL L
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

22
CHAPTER 4
RIDING IN TRAFFIC
I wanted to create a section on this before anything else. Riding in traffic at first can be for some people
(myself included) be incredibly daunting. It’s only normal to feel like that - we are riding on roads with cars
and trucks and it can be busy. But… personally I knew I couldn’t let this put me off riding. There are
definitely some suggestions I can give you to help, where to position yourself in the road for example, but
the best thing is just build up your confidence.

For example, ride around roads that you know and can prepare to signal - so you aren’t going to be
caught out if there’s a big junction you weren’t expecting. So stay on the roads around where you live and
get used to taking one hand off the handlebars to be able to signal left and right. Then just go further as
your confidence grows.

I have always been particularly cautious when it comes to my cycling journey - but one of the first rides I
did on a road bike was riding to Sydney airport with a friend. He was taking a flight and I said I would
head there with him. I had no idea how to get back so was using Google maps as navigation. But it
showed me that if I did jump in at the deep end - I could handle it.

But here are a few pointers that will make riding on the road a little easier.

D O N ’ T R I D E R I G H T N E X T T O T H E C U R B

This is for a couple of reasons. You don’t want to be riding over all of the debris that collects there - it’s a
puncture waiting to happen. Also you want to give yourself some room to manoeuvre if there’s a pothole
for example. Also, by positioning yourself around 0.5-1m from the curb you are part of traffic and other
vehicles will see you as that and will wait to drive around you.

If you try and tuck right next to the curb drivers will try and squeeze past you. By law (in the UK), the
Highway Code Rule 163 says vehicles must give ‘at least as much room as a car’ when overtaking which
is 1.5m.

/ /
S I M P L E
S I G N A L Y O U R I N T E N T I O N S

If you’re going to turn right, signal you’re going to turn right. It sounds really simple but if we want to be
part of traffic we have to signal to other road users what we are going to do. I see so many cyclists not
M A D E

doing this. We need to show other road users where we are going.
C Y C L I N G

H A V E C O N F I D E N C E

This is one that takes a little time but if we are on the road, we have to be confident. We have a right to
be on the road - we are looking after our health, reducing emissions and also are one less car on the road
creating traffic.
So don’t feel you are a pain to other road users - just be confident that you do have a right to be cycling.
23
CHAPTER 4
B E I NG A S L O W R I D E R
If you are coming to cycling as cross training and already have a
strong cardio background such as from running / swimming, this may
not apply to you. But if cycling is going to be your main form of
movement, at times you may feel frustrated, fed up, feel you’re too
“ S UC K I NG A T
slow, etc. But advice from a cartoon dog can help, ‘you have to suck
SO M ET H IN G IS T H E
at something before you become good at something’. Unless you are
F I R ST S TE P T O
that tiny 0.1 per cent of the population who are flying up climbs the
BECOMING SORT
first time you ride. For most of us, it’s not that easy.
OF GOOD AT
SO M ET H IN G. ”
As you start riding, chances are you are going to be fairly slow. There
are times you are going to feel like why are you even bothering, and JAKE THE DOG.
will it ever get easier? I had those EXACT thoughts. I have been at a
cycling festival for the past four years and the first year (and second
to be honest) I was always the very last rider on rides out. Honestly.
There were times I felt like giving up. But I knew that to be good at
something, you have to be kind of bad at it first.
So I want to share some tips on how to keep that motivation going
when you have those times when you may feel like quitting.

• Grab a blank notebook. This is going to be your Cycling Journey notebook. Or if you are more
digitally minded, open up Notes or Word on your computer. (I love computers but nothing beats a
little notepad for me).

• On the first page write down a list of all of the things that have made you want to start cycling. For
example, get fitter, lose weight, spend less money on public transport, look after my body, ride with
my family / friends / partner.

• Then write a list of goals you would like to achieve cycling. For example, ‘My goal is to be able to ride

/ /
to work three days a week’ or ‘My aim is to be able to ride up (insert a hill near you)’.
S I M P L E

• When you first start cycling keep a journal of how far you rode and how long it took you. Or you can
use Strava or Komoot for this - but more on that in a later chapter.
M A D E

• On days you really enjoy your ride out, write in detail about it and how it made you feel. For example,
‘I rode to work for the second time this week. It made me feel really strong. I am getting used to
C Y C L I N G

being on the roads and in traffic and am becoming more confident.’

• Then I want you to look at the pages of the notebook every morning before you start your day and
keep that in mind throughout your day. It will remind and inspire you why you took up cycling.

24
CHAPTER 4
H I L L S O R F L AT S ?
One of my favourite things to talk about. To start off with it’s best to get used to riding on comfortable flat
roads. Get used to traffic, navigating your way around, and maybe even get used to wearing cleats on your
shoes.

But as your confidence grows, or if you are coming to cycling for cross training reasons and are relatively
fit, then hills are incredible training. So many people will tell you that the effort you put out on a hill is the
same that you can put out on the flat - which in theory is true. But, if you want to push yourself and go as
hard as you can, doing this on a flat busy road with lots of side streets can be dangerous. You will be going
much faster in comparison to the same effort on a hill/climb.

So once you are comfortable on your bike and feel ready to attempt some hills, then give it a go. I promise
that in a few months you will ride with ease up roads you thought were huge hills. I did this exact thing.

Near where I grew up there is THE hill. It was my nemesis when I first started cycling. It’s so short but
because it was the steepest hill I knew, it seemed impossible. But the more I climbed, the better I got, and
when I went back I saw the hill in a whole different light. It’s not really a hill at all. That’s another reason I
love hills - because that is a direct way to see how much you are improving. Yes, flat riding can do that too
but for me it’s harder to see how I’m doing. Whereas completing a hill / climb for the first time and then
again a minute or two faster is so much more fun. Also, by climbing hills you get to see some amazing
views. That is one of the main reasons I love riding hills - the reward of seeing how far you have travelled.

“BE YOND PAI N

THERE IS A WHOLE
UNIVERSE OF
MORE PAIN.”

/ /
JENS VOIGT
S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

25
CHAPTER 4 H O W T O R I D E H I L L S

What I would say is try not to listen to too much to those around you when it comes to hills and what you
want to achieve. I remember being in Adelaide and had recently purchased my first road bike. I really
wanted to ride a popular climb - one that pro riders ride in the Tour Down Under; Norton Summit. In my
head I thought I can give that a go, no worries. But the people I told about it - local people - tried to put me
off saying ‘it’s so steep’ and ‘such a long and winding road’ etc. But that was THEIR perception of the road.
It did put me off - but I did it anyway. It took me around 90 minutes - or round about that and one of the
women who told me it was really hard actually drive past me and offered me a lift to the top (remember this
climb was just 5km).

I refused and was determined to prove them wrong so up I went. That climb now is something I could
easily do in 20 mins or so. (I need to go back soon and do it again!).

In comparison, a local cyclist told me I could do it no problem. He had done this climb hundreds of times
and said it would be easy to do.

The reason for telling you this is to not let people’s perceptions put you off riding your bike or pushing your
limits. We only get better by pushing our own boundaries and limits. This doesn't just apply to cycling, but
anything in life - let yourself be the judge and also listen to those who have ridden that road before you.

T I P S F O R R I D I N G H I L L S

- Keep a steady pace.

- Spin the gears by being in the lowest gear rather than grinding a high gear.
- Keep your pace as relaxed as possible and try to keep it at a talking pace. (Some hills you will have to
give it everything you have but for longer and shallower hills take it easy.)

/ /
- Try different gradients (start with small gradual and build to steeper sections).
- Get out of the saddle regularly to use different muscle groups and ease pressure from your saddle.
S I M P L E
- Enjoy the views!
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

26
 /// CY CL I NG MADE SI MPL E

REPAIRS
ROADSIDE
CHAPTER 5
ROADSIDE REPAIRS
I promise, this isn’t as daunting as it sounds. When I first got my bike I struggled changing an inner tube but
practice definitely helped. So I want you to be prepared for each of the following scenarios while out on your
bike so you don’t panic, and can get yourself home safely. While I want to help you prepare for these
roadside repairs, I always advise people to take £20 / $20 (insert your own currency here) for a taxi home
just in case you can’t fix your issue. I have only ever had to do this once.

So onto the three main issues that can be solved easily at the roadside; a flat tyre, skipping gears and a
snapped chain.

F L A T T Y R E

This WILL happen to you at some point so it’s best to practice at home a few times so you know what to
expect on the road. Learn from my mistake - I tried to change my first flat while on my way to work in the
rain. It made it pretty stressful to say the least and it shouldn’t have been. Now I can change one in just a
few minutes. So here’s what to do…

1. Start by letting out all of the remaining air from the tyre (if there is
any left) by unscrewing the nozzle on the valve. Then using plastic
tyre levers hook the end under one side of the tyre and hook onto a
spoke.

2. Then using a second tyre lever poke this into a gap made by the
first tyre level and pull out so the tyre becomes free from the wheel.
This might take a few attempts so just be patient. There’s definitely

/ /
a knack to this part.

S I M P L E

3. Then pull out the inner tube and then take off the tyre completely.
M A D E

Carefully inspect the tyre tread as well as running your fingers

inside the tyre to feel for any pieces of glass / metal that have
C Y C L I N G

caused the puncture. Take your time with this as just replacing the
inner tube while leaving in the culprit for the flat will result in another
flat. (Yes it’s happened to me many times - and I learned the hard
way!).

28
CHAPTER 5 F L A T T Y R E C O N T I N U E D …

4. When you have found the piece of glass / metal (assuming it

wasn’t just a pinch flat where they inner tube just pinches and
causes its own flat - this can happen if riding through a deep pot
hole or off a curb) then place your tyre onto the wheel on one side.

5. Pump your inner tube literally once or twice just to put a small
amount of air into it and then place the valve into the wheel hole
and put it into the tyre and around the wheel.

6. Once the inner tube is inside of the tyre hold the wheel
horizontally in front of you and then start pushing the tyre back on.
This needs to start with your hands together at 6 o’clock and then
separate them while pushing the tyre in until they meet at 12
o’clock. The very last section can be tight so you might need tyre
levers to push the final part of the tyre into place.

7. Then ensure that the inner tube isn’t pinched by working around
the tyre each side and looking if it is tucked into the tyre. Once

/ /
that’s done, just pump it up. This can be quite difficult with a hand
pump but you just need enough in there to get you home. Then you S I M P L E

can pump it up properly with a floor pump.

M A D E
C Y C L I N G

29
CHAPTER 5 F I X I N G T H E P U N C T U R E

Some cyclists prefer to just use a brand new inner tube each time, but… it’s cheaper and better for the
environment if we just repair the puncture. I promise it’s really simple to do and you can buy the repair kits
for around £1-3 and there will be around 6 patches in each.

Also, I would say unless you absolutely have to do this at the side of the road, then wait until you're in the
comfort of your own home to do the repair.

1. Pump up the inner tube a fair few times to get air into it, then
tighten up the valve screw.

2. Then, put the inner tube close to your ear and move it around
until you hear where the air is coming out. If your hearing isn’t
great, or can’t find the puncture by sound put it into a sink full of
water and you will see the air bubbles rise to the surface from the
puncture.

3. Once you have found the puncture, mark it with the crayon that
generally comes in the puncture repair kit. Then, and this is where I
went wrong, put the glue onto and around the puncture on the inner
tube. TIP: Don’t put the glue on the back of the patch. It won’t stick.
I learned this the hard way. Several times.

/ /
S I M P L E

3. After leaving the glue to dry for a minute or two until it’s tacky,
M A D E

peel the back off the patch and stick it onto the glued inner tube.
Press firmly onto the inner tube and hold for a minute. Then gently
peel off the plastic sheet from the patch. That’s it, it’s ready for
C Y C L I N G

when you next need it.

30
CHAPTER 5 S K I P P I N G G E A R S

Skipping gears means that when you’re trying to change gear - either higher or lower - the chain will just not
sit into that cog on the cassette and keeps ‘jumping’. You will get a loud rattling type sound and it can also
cause the chain to lift over the lowest gear and into the wheel. So if you notice the chain won’t sit right onto
one of the cogs then this is a simple fix while you’re out on the road.

Follow the steps below.

1. Find the barrel adjuster at the rear of your gear cable. It looks like
the one in the picture.

2. Move the barrel adjuster slightly - and I mean very slightly.

Twisting it upwards will allow the chain to move into a higher gear
(onto a smaller cog) and twisting it down will do the opposite. So
adjust slightly until it sits onto the chosen gear.

3. Spin the pedal around and move up and down gears while still
spinning the pedals to ensure it is no longer skipping. Simple as
that.

/ /
S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

31
CHAPTER 5 S N A P P E D C H A I N

A snapped chain is another simple fix that can be done if you have the correct tools. So you need to ensure
that you have a chain breaker (on most good quality multi-tools) as well as a quick link / speed link / master
link (different names for the same thing). This is essentially a link that joins the chain back together.

1. Use a chain hook (also part of a good multi-tool) to temporarily

connect the chain so it’s easier to work with. It’s basically holding it
in place while you work on actually reconnecting the chain.

2. Line up the chain breaker with a pin and hold it in place. Then
turn the handle on the chain tool to make a clean break into the
chain. This is basically removing the damaged part of the chain.

3. Then insert the two separate pieces of the quick link hooking
them onto the chain and then to each other. Some quick links have
arrows on them to show you the direction they should travel so
make sure these align with the rest of the chain and its direction.

/ /
S I M P L E

4. Then to ensure it’s fully connected, hold the rear brake and apply
force to the pedal. This then ‘snaps’ the quick link into place. The
M A D E

chain has been repaired and you can get on your merry way.
C Y C L I N G

32
CHAPTER 5
QUESTION AND ANSWER

C A N ’ T I T A K E I T T O A B I K E M E C H A N I C ?

Q:
Yes absolutely, for things you can’t physically do yourself then of course take it to
your local bike shop. However, there are so many things that we can do ourselves
and when you’re on the road and something happens we sometimes have no
A:
choice than fix it ourself.

S H O U L D I R E P A I R M Y I N N E R T U B E S ?
Q:
Yes. Absolutely yes. For two mains reasons - the first being that it’s way cheaper
to buy a repair kit for around £1 that can repair four to five tubes compared with

A: paying £3-5 per inner tube. Also, it’s way better for the environment to re-use inner
tubes as much as possible.

I D O N ’ T F E E L C O N F I D E N T D O I N G R E P A I R S !
Q:
I didn’t either and I’m still learning. But it’s better to learn via this guide, or videos
on YouTube than trying to figure it out while on the road. I had skipping gears on a
ride while on my own and had no idea what was going on so took some advice off
A:
a friend and now can sort it while out riding. Practice will give you confidence.

/ /
S I M P L E

W H A T I F I C A N ’ T F I X M Y I S S U E O N T H E R O A D ?
Q:
M A D E

This is where that handy £20 / $20 comes in. Use it for a taxi home or to a bike
shop. Don’t ride an unsafe or unstable bike.
A:
C Y C L I N G

33
 /// CY CL I NG MADE SI MPL E

WEIGHT
D R O P P I NG
CHAPTER 6
LOSING WEIGHT
I was able to drop 35kg+ but it takes time. I came from a background of running but when I gained
weight, pounding the pavement was no longer an option as it hurt my back and my joints. Cycling was
the perfect solution for me.

I gained weight after having an eating disorder for several years. Severely restricting calories, binging,
dieting, binging, dieting, and the vicious circle continued. I started eating a standard diet but due to the
past of severe restriction I was so hungry and sadly ate lots of processed animal products which packed
the weight on pretty fast. That was until I found the vegan way of life. Eating plant-based food in
abundance along with cycling worked wonders over time. None of this happened overnight. It took
literally years for the weight to drop off - but because it came off gradually, it has stayed off effortlessly.
That is what we want, gradual weight loss that lasts.

If you are overweight and looking for a fun and easy way to lose weight, cycling paired with a vegan
lifestyle in my opinion is the best thing you can do for your body.

Cycling is non-weight bearing so there is little to no pressure at all on your joints so realistically you could
do it all day, every day. You may feel embarrassed or self-conscious when you first start cycling, and
worry about what people are thinking of you and I used to think the exact same thing.

There was one time I was cycling back from the gym, and a group of men in a car shouted ‘Hey fatty!’ at
me. I was mortified. I wanted to cry. I wanted to hide. I desperately wanted to be slim. But now I am glad
that happened. It made me so determined to succeed. Not necessarily just lose weight - but to become a
fit cyclist. Another point to remember is, people are so wrapped up in their own lives they don’t think and
judge you as much as you think they do.

/ /
“IT NE V ER GET S S I M P L E
E ASIER, YO U JUST
GET FASTER.”
GREG LE MOND
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

35
CHAPTER 6
CHANGE YOUR THIN KI NG
It can be daunting but you just have to dive in. What is the
alternative? Be overweight and unfit your whole life? Care more
about what other people think about you than how you view yourself?
Let the judgement of other people stop you from achieving your “ W E C AN NO T
goals? I didn’t, and you shouldn’t either.
SO L VE O UR
PROBLEMS WITH
THE SAME
I spoke before about clothing, so if you are carrying a few extra
THINKING WE
pounds don’t feel like you have to wear skin tight lycra, wear what is
USED WHEN WE
comfortable for you. I wore leggings and a thin t-shirt for the longest
CREATED THEM.”
time until I felt ready to take the plunge into full cycling kit.
-ALBERT EINSTEIN

It doesn’t really matter what you are wearing, as long as you are
comfortable. I would say (again) though that if you are carrying a bit
of weight then padded shorts are great as it takes some pressure off
while you’re in the saddle.

So, how did I lose the weight? I actually have lost 35kg from my
heaviest weight of around 100kg. That I would say is mainly down to
cycling and eating simply.

What I did, and what I would recommend is literally just riding to work
and back. Riding to the shops and back. Riding to visit family and
friends. As soon as you use your body as your mode of transport -
you will lose weight. I don’t rate gyms in general. You have to pay
monthly fees, you have to get there, share a small space with a load
of sweaty people. If that’s your only option, then go for it. But I would
always advise people to save that monthly membership and put it

/ /
towards a bike. I find gyms harder to motivate myself to go to as well.
Not to mention boring - sat on a stationary bike is not my idea of fun.
S I M P L E
You will lose weight faster if you are using cycling as transport. You
have a purpose to the ride. It’s just what you do to get around - or as
much as you physically can.
M A D E

For me, when I did this something clicked. I no longer was exercising
to burn calories, I was exercising as a means of getting me around.
C Y C L I N G

This was great because I also saved a lot of money on petrol and I
mentally felt so much better.

36
CHAPTER 6 T A K E I T S T E A D Y !

I want to remind you though to take it steadily - you don’t have to start off doing 100km rides. Find
what makes cycling fun and enjoyable for you and it can be different for everyone. You might like to go
riding with your children, husband / wife, at the weekends. You might just enjoy having ‘me’ time on the
bike, or you might end up loving riding in groups once you get the hang of it. But take your time and
you will find what is your favourite way to ride. Then you will want to do it for life.

But as a rule of thumb, try and ride further every month. When you start riding have a goal of riding to
work. Then to the park that's further away from your work place. Then how about going out at the
weekend with a local club for a short and steady ride? Bit by bit you will increase how far you are able
to ride.

F U E L !

But to be able to fuel those rides you HAVE to eat sufficiently, and that includes an athlete's best friend
- carbohydrates. I used to think that the less I ate and the more I exercised I would be able to lose
weight and keep it off. That’s what we are told, right? Move more, eat less. But by doing that you will
burn yourself out. You need to be able to FUEL your body to be able to ride. Then while you are riding
you will burn through the fat. You can’t go out and ride without having enough fuel.

For me depending on how long I ride, I eat dates, simple table sugar mixed with water for a
homemade sports drink, or specially made sports formulations with electrolytes. What I’m trying to say
is do not be scared of eating carbohydrates. Some people will try and tell you that you should ride
fasted (i.e. with no sugar in your system) but for me I love to have breakfast of oats, sugar and apple,
then head out into the hills. I also find by eating very simply I can ride as long as I want to. But you
have to stay fuelled.

But I hear you asking, ‘how will I lose weight eating all of that sugar?’. I used to think the exact same
thing. I remember during the time I had an eating disorder, having an argument with my then-boyfriend
because he had bought us two drinks of Coca Cola - one diet and one normal. He couldn’t remember

/ /
which one was which and I said I wouldn't drink either because I wouldn’t want to risk eating any sugar

S I M P L E
at all.

Fast forward almost 10 years and simple sugars - such as pure organic cane sugar - is my preferred
fuel for rides and I’m fitter that I have ever been in my life and the healthiest my body has ever been.
M A D E

You need to have those simple sugars to keep you fuelled on the bike then as you are riding you are
burning fat as you ride. I’m not professing to be an expert on how this works - I’m just sharing what has
C Y C L I N G

worked for me and helped me lose 35kg+ sustainably. I could tell you to cut out all carbs and you will
lose weight rapidly, but you won’t have the energy to get out on the bike.

37
CHAPTER 6
RIDING TO BE HEALTHY
So how much do you need to eat? If you are just starting out cycling and are cycling to work for example,
just have your breakfast before you go and then have a steady spin to work. Then have a piece of fruit
when you arrive, or even a second breakfast if you have built up the appetite. Just make sure you always
have a few dates, a piece of fruit, or even a Clif Bar (the peanut butter ones are AMAZING) with you just
in case you feel you need an extra bit of fuel. Dried fruit such as raisins, sultanas also work well. Choose
the types of for that you enjoy to eat.

I have explained the two most important pillars of loosing weight below. Simple, straight-forward, anyone
can do it and there’s no need to spend thousands on supplements, gym memberships, or meet up groups.

F U E L A D V E N T U R E

▹ Eat to ride. ▹ Explore new roads.

▹ Fuel sufficiently on your rides. ▹ Travel by bike on holidays.
▹ Stick to plant-based fuel. ▹ Find a climb near you and try to
▹ Make sure you are always hydrated. improve your time up it weekly.
▹ NEVER restrict calories in order to lose ▹ Create a meet up group for cyclists
weight. around you to go on adventures.
▹ Eat until you are satiated at every meal ▹ Pick a place you have always wanted to
time. go near you, plot the route and ride
▹ Example snacks include dates, there. It will help your confidence and
bananas, raisins, energy bars, sugar also give you immense amounts of
mixed with water, fruit juice, chocolate pride.
oat milk, vegan wine gums, home made

/ /
energy bars (receipe eBook is coming
out soon!). S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

38
CHAPTER 6
QUESTION AND ANSWER

H O W M A N Y C A L O R I E S S H O U L D I E A T ?
Q:
I can’t say exactly how many calories you should eat - but I can tell that you need
to be eating enough to fuel your riding, adventure, and lifestyle. For me, I eat
anywhere between 2,200 and 3,500 on any given day. If I’m doing a huge ride it
A:
may be more. I would say a minimum of 2,200 calories a day of high carb, low fat
plant foods though.

I D O N ’ T H A V E M U C H T I M E T O E X E R C I S E ?
Q:
Then incorporate it into your day as a means of commuting, or playing with your
children, or taking a dance class with your friends instead of going out to eat.

A: There are always ways to give yourself time to move your body - and in turn make
us into our happiest and healthiest selves.

H O W L O N G W I L L I T T A K E T O L O S E W E I G H T ?
Q:
Again, it’s so difficult to speak for every person but for me it’s been very gradual -
and I’m still dropping weight. If you have a lot of weight to lose it will come off
A: quicker at the start. But please be patient. Fad diets show weight loss on the
scales quicker - but this is a lifestyle so it will take more time come off. Give your
body time and be patient.

/ /
S I M P L E

H O W C A N I S P E E D U P T H E P R O C E S S ?
Q:
M A D E

You can speed it up healthily by eating more and doing more. But please don’t
count calories in order to under-eat. Under-eating is not a means to getting out
A:
C Y C L I N G

there, finding adventure and living to your fullest potential.

39
 /// CY CL I NG MADE SI MPL E

TO WORK
COMMUTE
CHAPTER 7
THE COMMUTE
H O W T O M A K E I T W O R K …

There are so many excuses NOT to commute - and I have used them all.
‘I need to carry my laptop.’
‘It’s too far.’
‘I will be too sweaty when I get there.’
‘What will co-wokrers think of me if I ride my bike to work?’
But nothing makes you feel better and actually more productive than cycling to work getting those
endorphins flowing, as opposed to getting irritated sitting in traffic. It’s also worth saying from the off - don’t
feel you have to commute every single day. Do what works for you. But commuting for me was where I
built all of my base miles as a beginner cyclist, and also where I dropped most of my weight so that is
worth bearing in mind.

So let’s get onto the practical side of the cycle commute.

Showering. Some workplaces have showers so take advantage of them if they do. Some cities also have
facilities to actually lock your bike and shower in a specifically designated hub for a monthly fee. But failing
that, how do you get ready for work?

I have ridden to countless jobs in different cities in different countries - none with showers. But this just
meant that I had to come up with my own tips and tricks to help make it as easy and seamless as possible.
It may seem easier at times to just get in the car, train or bus, but remember the reason you want to ride
your bike to work. For me, it’s a way to get in some training before work, it’s free, and is way better for the
environment. Oh and the main reason, I hated sitting in traffic. It actually takes me less time to cycle to
work than drive during rush hour.

/ /
S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

41
CHAPTER 7 What do you do if you actually need your car for work? This was the case for me when I worked as a
reporter - I needed my car at work to drive to different jobs.

I got around this by actually driving my car to work with a week’s worth of clothes and some food for
snacks on the Monday morning and left my car there all week and drove it home on the Friday night. Yes,
there are two commutes I don’t get in but at least it means I get eight out of ten rides, which is much better
than none at all.

If you live inside of 15 miles to work, riding is definitely do-able - even if you are just starting out cycling. If
you live further than that, get the train part of the way to work and ride the rest.

This is how I started upping my miles - I literally cycled 13 miles to work and back. It wasn’t even every day
at the start. Start off riding one day a week, then after a month try two days and keep increasing it until you
are a fully-fledged cycling commuter.

One major benefit I didn’t mention, other than saving money, getting fitter, is how a ride mentally makes
you feel. I always felt more productive after cycling into to work. It also gives you that endorphin rush, who
wouldn’t want that first thing in the morning?

Also, if you live really close to where your work, why not extend a route to make it worth riding to work?
This is a great way to actually get in your ‘exercise’ for the day before most people have even got out of
bed. I also put quote marks around the word exercise because even though it is exercise, I don’t ever
really think of it as that. Think of it as the way you get to work.

It’s important to remember though that if you live someone with really cold / icy weather in winter, then
commute when you can. It doesn’t have to be an all or nothing approach.

Commute to work when you can and it’s safe to do so. But also be honest if you’re making excuses when
you could actually be getting in a workout.

/ /
We will always come up with a mountain of excuses when we don’t want to do something. Coming up with
solutions though is where we set ourselves apart and get fitter for life.
S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

42
CHAPTER 7
TOP TIPS
• Do a trial run of your route. You may have driven it 200 times, but it always feels different being on a
bike so just give it a trial run and see how long it takes you to comfortably get to work. Then you
know how long to give yourself - and also add in more time if you are commuting during rush hour.

• Once you know how long it takes - give yourself breathing space when you arrive. The last thing you
want is to be running around in a panic trying to lock your bike, eat your breakfast and get changed
in ten minutes. Slow down. Breathe. Have five minutes to relax with your favourite song, few pages
of a book you’re reading before you dash into work.

• Don’t ride too hard. Take your time and take it steady. Riding as though you are in the final meters of
a Tour de France stage is going to mean you are sweaty and out of breath when you arrive at work.
No no no. Save the efforts for the weekends and days you aren’t working. Commute steadily so that
when you arrive you are hardly even out of breath. If you are riding and couldn’t hold a conversation,
you are going too hard so slow it down a tad.

• When you’ve locked your bike with your D-lock, head straight to the toilets to get ready. Yes it may
not seem glamorous getting ready in the toilets, but neither is sitting in traffic for an hour sucking in
all of the toxic fumes. If you feel a little shy, try and find an unused office to get ready in. I have
always used toilets and it’s worked fine for me.

• I have used the hand-dryer and a hairbrush in the past to just freshen up my hair if it has gotten
slightly damp. If you’re male, or female with shorter hair you could always rinse your hair in the sink
and dry with a towel.

/ /
S I M P L E

• Take a flannel, muslin cloth, wet wipes etc, are all great options to refresh yourself too.
M A D E

• Finally, if you want to commute bad enough you will make it happen. Come up with your own
solutions and ways of doing things. Let me know on YouTube or Instagram of any great hacks you
C Y C L I N G

have come up with.

43
CHAPTER 7 F A M I L Y , F R I E N D S & C O L L E A G U E S W H O D O N ’ T R I D E

I felt it was important to include this part as there will be some people in your life who potentially may try
and warn you off of cycling - saying it’s ‘dangerous’. These could be family members, close friends or
colleagues.

I was lucky enough to have family and friends that really supported my new found love of bikes. But for
some people it may be a concern due to traffic, ‘idiots on the road’ and phrases like, ‘I’m not worried
about you but more about other people on the road’.

It made me a lot more wary than maybe I would have been otherwise. But, you have to choose what is
right for you and not let others influence your decision. Being on a road as a driver, cyclist or pedestrian
all have risks.

You might read in newspapers and online news websites about people being knocked off their bikes and
injured, and yes it does happen, but you knew that already. What I am saying is that publications report
on one incident, not the thousands and thousands of people who are riding each and every day.

Your loved ones mean well, they really do, but sometimes you have to do what is right for you and what
makes you happy.

But there are things we can do to ensure that we are seen by other road users. These include wearing
high visibility and reflective clothing, have daylight running lights, and also following the rules of the road -
this is to give other road users an indication of your intentions.

/ /
“DO N’T BUY
UPGRADES, RIDE S I M P L E
UP GRADES.”
EDDY MERCKX
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

44
CHAPTER 7
QUESTION AND ANSWER

H O W F A R I S T O O F A R T O C O M M U T E ?
Q:
This is totally up to you. I used to ride 13 miles (21km) each way when I first got
my bike so anything is possible. You don’t have to go full gas, take it steady and
make it part of your day that you enjoy. Also, if it’s a long commute just try doing it
A:
once or twice a week and build it up from there.

I ’ M W O R R I E D A B O U T T R A F F I C I N R U S H H O U R ?
Q:
I find that rush hour traffic is generally at a stand still so much easier to cycle in as
no cars are moving. But if you are concerned could you cycle into work earlier and

A: start work earlier? Or could you cycle to work and do other things before your shift
start, such as do some yoga or have breakfast. There’s always a way.

H O W D O I C A R R Y M Y C L O T H E S ?
Q:

A few options that I have used in the past. The first is to carry them every day in a
backpack or panniers. Or drive once a week and leave all of your clothes for the
A:
week in the office.

/ /
S I M P L E

I N E E D M Y C A R F O R M Y J O B !
Q:
M A D E

I used to have to have my car for my job as a reporter so I would leave my car in

A: the office car park and then cycle every day. Simple.
C Y C L I N G

45
 /// CY CL I NG MADE SI MPL E

YOUR BIKE
LOCKING
CHAPTER 8
LOCKING YOUR BIKE
This might seem pretty straight forward but after my first (VERY clumsy) experience of locking my bike, I
had to create a section just for this.

I had ridden my bike to Rundle Mall in Adelaide, Australia. If you’re not familiar with it, it’s the main high
street in the city. Loads of shops either side and walkway in the middle with a fair few bike racks to lock up
your bike. I had a D-lock with cable and felt I had done a pretty good job locking it up. Went about my
business and came back a few hours later to realise I had locked the cable to my frame only, and NOT to
the bike rack (?!). What an idiot!! So from then I realised - as you already do - to make sure it’s locked TO
something. I say this to you not because I think you’re daft enough to do what I did, but to show that from
that I have now become - I would say - a bike locking ninja! Nobody is taking my bike away without a huge
fight (and chainsaw) on their hands.

So let’s get into the different types of lock you can buy and what scenario they are good for.

Yes, you can go out and buy the cheapest lock you can find, but would you really want to chain your pride
and joy with something that cost a few pounds / dollars?

CAFE LOCK: (£10-20) These are the lightest lock you can buy and they
are used for, as the name suggests, locking your bike while you nip into
a café on rides when you are away from your bike for a few minutes. The
cable is made out of steel - and the same kind of material your brake
cables are made from. Super light, but not tamper proof. This is literally
just to stop opportunist thieves.

CABLE LOCK: (£3-£20) These are the locks you see that have the
plastic cover around them and they can come in all shapes, lengths,
weight and widths. These are slightly stronger than the café lock but
again, are only good for leaving your bikes a few minutes. The reason

/ /
for this is that bike thieves can chop through these with a pair of bolt
S I M P L E
cutters in seconds. Again, like the café lock, only to be used for short
amounts of time away from your bike.
M A D E

D-LOCK: (£20-£100) These are the BEST kind of lock you can possibly
buy to keep your bike safe. The only downside to these is that they can
C Y C L I N G

be quite heavy. Thieves would struggle to cut through these unless they
had angle grinders. The ‘D’ lock should be used to lock your frame and
back wheel and the cable (which are supplied with some D-locks) should
be put through removable items such as your front wheel.

47
CHAPTER 8 H O W T O A C T U A L L Y L O C K Y O U R B I K E …

The best way to ensure your bike is not stolen is to ensure the lock and cable go through as many parts of
the bike frame and wheel as possible. So with a D-lock and cable, the D-lock should be used on your seat
tube and back wheel against the bike rack. Then the cable is used to go through your front wheel and
attach through the D-lock. That way your bike and wheels are all protected. I have seen some people also
attach their helmet with the cable - but seeing as my helmet it protecting my head I want to ensure it isn’t
being bashed around so always keep it with me.

Have a look at the pics below to see how I lock my bike.

/ /
S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

Make sure that your back wheel, seat tube and the post you’re locking your bike to are all in the D-lock.
Simple as that.

48
CHAPTER 8
QUESTION AND ANSWER

Q U I E T O R B U S Y A R E A T O L O C K ?
Q:

As much as it seems better for your bike to be out of sight, I actually prefer locking
mine in a busier area because there are more people around if anyone does try
A:
and steal it. I would hope someone would step in but you never know.

A N Y W A Y A R O U N D H A V I N G T O C A R R Y L O C K S ?
Q:

If you are locking your bike the same place each day just leave your lock at the
bike rack. I leave my d-lock at work to save me having to carry it when I commute.
A:

Q: A N Y O T H E R S A F E T Y T I P S ?

It sounds very simple, but I forgot to do this last week - make sure you take
everything off your bike. I left my Garmin on the handlebars when I went to get
A:
some food. Luckily it was still there when I went back outside.

/ /
S I M P L E

M Y D - L O C K W O N ’ T F I T !
Q:
M A D E

Some d-locks aren’t long enough to fit around the seat tube, post and back wheel
unfortunately. So lock part of the frame to the post and take extra small café locks
A:
C Y C L I N G

to chain the wheels to the frame.

49
 /// CY CL I NG MADE SI MPL E

RECORDING
RIDES
CHAPTER 9
RECORDING RIDES
Now you’re on the road and riding you want to be able to record your rides and also be able to create
routes so you can venture further afield.

SMART PHONE:
Strava and Komoot are both great apps for recording your rides. They are both free to download with
added paid extras (but this may have changed depending when you are reading this book). They give
metrics such as distance, speed, elevation climbed as well as a few others.
Strava and Komoot also both offer turn by turn voice navigation if you have created a route to follow.
Google Maps is also a good one to follow on short routes.

GPS / BIKE COMPUTER:

This is the way I record and also follow directions. You can create a route on Strava or RideWithGPS and
export the route file (.GPX file) and add that onto your device. This then gives you turn by turn directions
and a line to follow while riding. It’s basically a SatNav for your bike. This also records your metrics such as
speed, distance, elevation climbed, and power (if you have a power metre on your bike). I prefer this
method for longer rides so it’s not using my phone battery. These devices are also generally waterproof so

/ /
good to use in all weathers.

S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

51
CHAPTER 9
ROUTE PLANNING
This is an example using Strava but this can be done on other websites such as RideWithGPS, or Komoot,
which work in a similar way. It’s so easy and straight-forward to use. This can then be transferred onto your
bike computer to follow while riding. Strava also offers the option of using a route via the app - but it does
not offer turn by turn navigation whereas Komoot does. This example below is for creating a route or a GPX
file as they are know, to be transferred onto your bike computer such as Wahoo or Garmin.

1. Create an account on Strava and then click on the ‘Create Route’

section on the top right of the screen.

2. Find your start point (you can input your post code). Then click on
the roads you want to ride.

3. You can also search for a second point using a post code also. Or
freely plot the route you want to go to. Just literally click a point and it
will direct you there. If you decided you want to use a different road
to the one plotted, just hover over that part of the route and drag and
drop it onto the road you prefer to ride on.

/ /
S I M P L E

4. Then hit save in the top right hand corner. Name your route and
then hit save again.
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

52
CHAPTER 9
ROUTE PLANNING CONT…

4. Your route has now been saved to Strava.

4. Then export the GPX file onto your computer if you are
wanting to add it to your bike computer. (The way it is
transferred onto the device is different for each brand so just
have a quick search for how to get the file directly onto your
device.)

4. The GPX file of the route has now been saved to my downloads.
This will vary depending on your computer settings on a Mac or a
PC. Then you can drag and drop onto your desktop and add onto
your device. Again, this will vary for your device.

/ /
4. Extra tip: If you click on the left hand side of the webpage to the
S I M P L E
Strava button while plotting a route, it will bring up popular
segments in that area. This is great if you want to include specific
segments into a route. If you use the slider on the top of that
M A D E

section you can find harder segments.

C Y C L I N G

53
 /// C YC L ING MAD E SI MPLE

YOUR BIKE
MAINTAIN
CHAPTER 10
MAINTENANCE

TYRES

Check over tyres as often as possible after rides. This is to look for pieces
of glass and debris that could be lodged in the tyres and have potential to
cause punctures. Also keep a check on how worn the tyres are and when
you start to see any canvas on the tyre - that’s when it’s time to replace
them.

BRAKES

Brakes, whether rim or disc they should be checked regularly. This can be
done by feel and / or by eye. If the brakes start to feel they don’t have as
much stopping power, cables may need to be tightened or new brake pads
may need to in inserted. There is no set time period for this - as it
completely depends how often you ride and how much you brake.

CABLES

/ /
S I M P L E

It is essential that you check gear and brake cables to look for any fraying. It
could be that one of the tiny threads is becoming unravelled from the rest.
M A D E

This means you need to replace the cable to prevent it from snapping on a
ride. They are cheap to replace and are easy to do.
C Y C L I N G

55
CHAPTER 10
MAINTENANCE

WHEELS

Make sure wheels remain true - this means ensuring they are perfectly
straight when rotating and also perfectly round. This relies on equal tension
from all of the spokes on the wheel. If the wheel wobbles or rubs on the
brakes you need to get this checked over by your local bike shop.
Also, if you are using rim brakes, keep a check on the braking surface of the
wheel to ensure there are no dents or cracks.

CHAIN

Make sure your chain is always well lubricated. This is going to increase its
life as well as the rest of the drive chain. But don’t overload the chain with
too much oil as this will attract more dirt and grime onto the chain. There
are also specific lubes for wet and dry riding conditions so use them
accordingly. Clean and re-lube the chain regularly. But when cleaning make
sure to use a de-greaser to get ride of leftover oil. An old rag also works

/ /
best when de-greasing.
S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

56
 /// CY CL I NG MADE SI MPL E

TO RIDE
MINDSET
CHAPTER 11
MINDSET
It’s so easy to talk ourselves out of doing the things we really want to.
I still do it to this day and it takes daily practice to keep yourself on
the right track - or at least the track you want to be on.
“ C H AM P IO NS A R E
NOT TH E ONES
That is why mentality is so important. It’s great for me to say to you, WHO ALWAYS WIN
get this bike, wear this kit, ride to this place, etc etc but all of it is RACES -
worthless without having the right mentality. CHAMPIONS ARE
THE ONES WHO
What I’ve learned is paramount to cycling and getting fitter and GET OUT THERE
slimmer, is MINDSET. AND TRY.”
S I M O N S I N EK ,
At the start of my cycling journey I would sometimes feel I was too AUTHOR
slow, too fat, or some other really negative thought about myself and
it would really slow down my progress.

But for the most part, I think it was the positive way I thought about
my abilities that really helped me break through that transitional
point.

Don’t get me wrong, some days I wanted to throw my bike in a bush.

Sorry bike!

Some days I wanted to give up. We will all have those days but it’s
how we react to them that determines whether we achieve what we
set out to. Negative thoughts are just thoughts and we get to
determine them. These might seem familiar…

“I’m too old for this.”

/ /
“I’m too fat for this.”
S I M P L E
“I’m too slow to be a good cyclist.”
“Everyone is looking at me!”
“Why did I think this was a good idea?”
M A D E

“I hate hills!”
“I won’t ever lose weight doing this, it’s pointless! “
“It’s just too hard!”
C Y C L I N G

58
CHAPTER 10 T A L K Y O U R S E L F U P !

Instead practice saying motivational things to yourself as you would to a loved one who was just starting
out.

“I’m doing great.”

“I’m improving every day/ week.”
“I’ve getting more confident riding bikes.”
“I’m able to ride 5km.”
“I’m able to ride 5km further than I did last week."
“Riding is making me fitter."
“I love challenging myself to ride further.”
“I love the challenge of a new hill to conquer.”

That way we are looking at what we are doing right, rather than focusing on our insecurities. It’s so simple
and I now you know to do this, but it takes practice, especially when trying something new.

I felt it was so important to include this chapter in this book because for me like you have read, I was VERY
slow. But did it stop me? No. Did it sometimes get frustrating? Yes. Did I want to quit sometimes? Yes. But,
the overriding question I constantly asked my self was, do I want to get better? And the answer to that was
yes. So I kept on riding and finding enjoyment on my bike riding at a slower pace. It just meant lies took
longer so I could enjoy the views for a longer period. This was and still is, by far one of the biggest
obstacles I had to work on to overcome.

The moral of the story is we ALL have to start somewhere.

A C H I E V E M E N T S

That’s right - achievements. You might not think compared to someone else who may have been riding
for years, that you have achieved anything. But you have. By getting out of your comfort zone and trying
something new you are have made the change with also lead to many more achievements. Don’t ever

/ /
forget that and make sure you keep a record of your progress. They might seem like small steps week by
week, but they add up. S I M P L E
M A D E

One of the best ways I see myself motivated, and positive is looking back at
times where I was worried about a ride distance, or felt really honestly nervous.
C Y C L I N G

I remember that feeling, then I look at a picture that was taken afterwards and
realise we all feel like that sometimes so just go and do it anyway. This picture
was the first time I climb Holme Moss, a relatively short climb near me. I was
really worried beforehand but kept telling myself I could do it. And I did and so
can you.

59
CHAPTER 11
MINDSET
These thoughts - and believe me at some point I have thought some of those things about myself but they are
never constructive.

Consciously talk yourself up.

Be kind to yourself.
Be your own number one supporter.

You are learning a new skill and it does take time. You would never expect a child who is learning to walk to be
able to run a marathon in a week, just like you wouldn’t expect a teenager who is learning to cook to be able to
produce a gourmet three meal course after just a few days’ practice. Go easy on yourself. That’s definitely
something I have had to learn over the years.

Instead of those negative thoughts - think of new, positive ones.

“I’m doing great.”

“I’m improving every day.”
“I’m getting a lot more confident riding.”
“I’ve ridden my first 50km.”
“I can now ride further than I ever have done before.”
“Riding is making me so much fitter.”
“I love challenging myself to ride further.”
“I love the challenge on new hills.”
“I like mountains.”

That way we are looking the positives and reinforcing those, rather than concentrating on our insecurities.

I just want you to know that we all start somewhere and it’s a daily reminder to make sure you are being kind to
yourself and reinforcing all the positives in your life.

As I said before it can be so easy to compare yourself to others and the things they are achieving. But, you are

/ /
not them, and you have your own journey. So concentrate on you and pushing yourself forward and do the
things that make you happy. S I M P L E

I felt it was so important to include this chapter because for me, (as you have probably already realised) i was
M A D E

very slow at the start. But did it stop me? No. Did it sometimes get frustrating? Yes. Did I want to quit
sometimes? Absolutely. But the question that kept surfacing was ‘do I want to improve?’ and the answer of
course, was yes. So I kept on riding and finding enjoyment at a slower pace than everyone else I knew at the
C Y C L I N G

point. I just told myself I got the enjoy the views for longer! The moral of the story is we all start somewhere.

60
CHAPTER 11
MINDSET
One of the best ways I kept myself motivated, and positive is looking back at times where I was really worried
about riding a distance, and how I overcame each and every one of them. This photograph below is a prime
example and just want to talk about the day in a little more detail.

The image you see is me smiling so hard at the top of Holme Moss - a climb in the Peak District. It’s 4.7km
long, and averages at seven per cent gradient - with it topping out at 13 per cent. Now, that climb is one of my
favourites to do an effort on. But back in 2015 - when I first did the climb - it was a different story.

I got up that morning knowing myself and friend Jay were going to ride this climb. He had done it before so I was
constantly asking questions about how long it would last, how steep it got, were there hairpin bends? would it be
that steep I would fall off? But he answered them all and assured me I would be fine. So off we went.

The weather for October was incredible - bright sunshine and really warm. We were enjoying the ride out which
involved going up my all time favourite climb; Dovestones which is in Saddleworth (if you know the area you
know how lovely this area is). So that climb is just over 6km and felt comfortable riding that but the idea of the
unknown of Holme Moss felt daunting.

We got closer and could see it in the distance. It looked like ski slopes. I then started asking more and more
questions about the climb. ‘How long did you say it was? what’s the average gradient? I won’t fall off will i? WILL
I?’.

To cut this long story short we started climbing it. It felt fairly steep and I had to stop on one of the first bends.
But off we went again and then rode around the next bend and then the next one. Then we finally reached the
summit. The view was incredible and knowing I had faced my fear just was even more amazing than the view. I
actually filmed a video on the day that is still on my YouTube channel so go and have a watch.

From then on I always remembered that day, the fear, and then overcoming that. There are always new hills to
climb, but we have to remind ourselves that fear isn’t productive. Mindset is everything and we get a choice over
that - so do your best to keep it positive at all times. If we are out riding bikes, then we are pretty lucky.

/ /
S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

61
CHAPTER 10 T A L K Y O U R S E L F U P !

Instead practice saying motivational things to yourself as you would to a loved one who was just starting
out.

“I’m doing great.”

“I’m improving every day/ week.”
“I’ve getting more confident riding bikes.”
“I’m able to ride 5km.”
“I’m able to ride 5km further than I did last week."
“Riding is making me fitter."
“I love challenging myself to ride further.”
“I love the challenge of a new hill to conquer.”

That way we are looking at what we are doing right, rather than focusing on our insecurities. It’s so simple
and I now you know to do this, but it takes practice, especially when trying something new.

I felt it was so important to include this chapter in this book because for me like you have read, I was VERY
slow. But did it stop me? No. Did it sometimes get frustrating? Yes. Did I want to quit sometimes? Yes. But,
the overriding question I constantly asked my self was, do I want to get better? And the answer to that was
yes. So I kept on riding and finding enjoyment on my bike riding at a slower pace. It just meant lies took
longer so I could enjoy the views for a longer period. This was and still is, by far one of the biggest
obstacles I had to work on to overcome.

The moral of the story is we ALL have to start somewhere.

A C H I E V E M E N T S

That’s right - achievements. You might not think compared to someone else who may have been riding
for years, that you have achieved anything. But you have. By getting out of your comfort zone and trying
something new you are have made the change with also lead to many more achievements. Don’t ever

/ /
forget that and make sure you keep a record of your progress. They might seem like small steps week by
week, but they add up. S I M P L E
M A D E

One of the best ways I see myself motivated, and positive is looking back at
times where I was worried about a ride distance, or felt really honestly nervous.
C Y C L I N G

I remember that feeling, then I look at a picture that was taken afterwards and
realise we all feel like that sometimes so just go and do it anyway. This picture
was the first time I climb Holme Moss, a relatively short climb near me. I was
really worried beforehand but kept telling myself I could do it. And I did and so
can you.

62
CHAPTER 11
QUESTION AND ANSWER

Q: H O W D O I F I N D M Y O W N P O S I T I V E M A N T R A ?

This can and will vary from person to person but I chose the thing I found the

A: hardest - which was climbing hills - and told myself I loved hills and they were what
I needed to get fit. So choose the thing you find the hardest and learn to love it.

Q: C A N T H I S H E L P I F I W A N T T O R A C E B I K E S ?

Absolutely! Sir Chris Hoy put his Olympic gold medals down to mind management

A: after working with Professor Steve Peters, author of The Chimp Paradox.
Definitely a good read if you get the chance.

Q: B U T W H A T I F I D O N ’ T B E L I E V E I T ?

At first you might not believe the positive things you are saying to yourself, but
A: over time the things you constantly thinking will manifest positively in your life.

/ /
S I M P L E

A R E T H E R E A N Y B O O K S Y O U R E C O M M E N D ?
Q:
M A D E

The Chimp Paradox was written by Professor Steve Peters is a great read to help

A: you understand how your mind works and how we can use it to benefit us. Also,
C Y C L I N G

The Power by Rhonda Byrne is also a great book about the Law of Attraction.

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 /// CY CL I NG MADE SI MPL E

PLANS
TRAINING
CHAPTER 12
TRAINING
Without wanting to dodge the question of training plans, how much and how far really depends on you.
Where are you coming from? Are you completely new to any type of fitness or are you coming to cycling as
a form of cross training from another discipline? So I want you to take these plans and adjust where
necessary to help you progress. If you are really wanting to progress and improve your fitness I also think
having a coach can be really beneficial. But it’s definitely not necessary to become fit.

B E G I N N E R

If you have never ridden a bike before - or are coming back to it after riding as a child - then the best way
is start small and build on it. So take your bike to a local country park and get used to bike handling, or if
you are feeling more confident, ride on the roads around your home. Then once your confidence builds,
use your bikes as a means of transport; ride to work, ride to the shops, ride to visit friends and relatives.
Then when you are ready set yourself a target.

For me this was a 60km ride to the beach and back when I was living in Adelaide. I was so excited and had
built up to it over a number of week..When I got back I was shattered but so proud of my longest ever ride.
I can’t decide this for you, as each person is different and will start at a different fitness level. But you know
what is a goal for you. If you don’t manage your goal the first time, then set three quarters of the distance
as the goal and build up to it.

The main thing is building up your time in the saddle. Once you start increasing this just build and build
and ride as far as you want to. Remember to always stay hydrated and eat on rides longer than 60
minutes.

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S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

65
CHAPTER 12
COU CH TO 50KM
W H E R E T O S T A R T …

This is going to be an eight week plan to build up your distance to ride 50km. It will vary person to person
as it will be easier for someone who lives in a place that is completely flat - so choose routes accordingly to
whether you prefer flatter or slightly hillier routes. I am concentrating on building your endurance rides so
these are best done on a weekend when you have a day after to rest up, so ideally on a Saturday or
Sunday, or whenever you have a few days off. During the rest of the week, just commute, ride with friends,
ride to the shops. This is all about building your fitness base. So here is a very simplified eight week plan of
how to build up to 50km.

For some of you, you might ride 50km in the first few weeks, for others it might take a little more time to
build up to that distance. It took me around a month of riding before I rode my first 60km to it different for
everyone. As long as you feel happy, comfortable on the bike and are drinking and eating enough on the
bike then go as far as you feel like. This is as a rough guide so go with how you feel and what is working
for you.

Week 1 10km
Week 2 20km
Week 3 30km
Week 4 15km
Week 5 40km
Week 6 40km
Week 7 30km
Week 8 50km

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S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

66
CHAPTER 12
RIDING THE FIRST CENTURY
W H E R E T O S T A R T …

So you want to ride your first century - this can either be 100 miles or 100km. The training is pretty much
the same for both. I would first choose a route that you have roughly done before just so there are no
surprise hills. Plot out your route on Strava or RideWithGPS or Komoot and get it loaded onto your phone
or device.

For my longest rides I always look over the route and see where the hills are, where there is somewhere to
get a drink / food if I need one. So I would recommend you do that too - although this is just in case as you
want to be taking enough food and water with you to last the distance. But if you are doing the ride
somewhere that is extremely hot you might need to top up water.

Then this is how I would plan this into my riding schedule. I will work cover both 100 miles and 100km - just
choose which you prefer. You want to be able to ride 40km (for 100km) or 40 miles (for 100 miles)
comfortably.

Just to be clear, I am not a cycling coach but this is the way I have built up my endurance over time. I know
people who get a bike and a month later they are riding 100km. But for me I wanted a steadier approach to
give myself confidence that I would be able to ride that far. Please just use this as a guide, if you are
feeling great and want to ride further, go for it.

Week 1 40km / 40 miles

Week 2 55km / 55 miles
Week 3 60km / 60 miles
Week 4 30km / 30 miles
Week 5 70km / 70 miles
Week 6 60km / 70 miles
Week 7 90km / 90 miles

/ /
Week 8 100km / 100 miles

S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

67
CHAPTER 12 I N T E R M E D I A T E / C Y C L I N G A S C R O S S T R A I N I N G

If you’re coming from a background of running, swimming, football, netball… whatever your sport…
cycling is the perfect way to cross train without risk of injury.
The fact cycling is so low impact on the joints but you can build and push your cardiovascular system
makes it the perfect way to train.
If you have that strong base already you are going to be able to ride further and harder than someone
starting out into their fitness journey.
But as with any new sport your muscles are going to be used in a different way so always start off
steadily and build up as fast as your body allows.

It’s difficult to prescribe just one or two training plans without knowing where you are starting and what
you want to achieve.

So build as you go and just increase time in the saddle gradually. You can do so much more in cycling
than you can being new to say running as it’s such low impact.

I would just make sure you are hydrated, and have food with you on ride of more than 60 minutes.

I am working on a guide that will cover how to build your fitness to ride further. Until then head over to my
YouTube channel where I talk about this topic in depth.

“YO U CAN’ T GET

GOOD BY
/ /
S T AYING H OME. I F S I M P L E
YOU WANT TO GET
FAS T , YO U HAV E
TO GO WHERE THE
M A D E

FAS T G U YS ARE. ”
ST EV E LAR SEN
C Y C L I N G

68
CHAPTER 12
QUESTION AND ANSWER

H O W F A S T S H O U L D I I N C R E A S E D I S T A N C E ?
Q:
This is totally up to you but for me I would add on other 10-30km to my long rides
at a weekend. This is long enough to add sufficient distance but not enough for
A: you to notice a lot. As you progress and get used to riding this can increase. My
biggest jump was 200km to 300km. You will get there if you want it!

I S I T P O S S I B L E T O R I D E 1 0 0 K M A S A B E G I N N E R ?
Q:
Absolutely! As long as you are hydrated, have sufficient nutrition and are
comfortable on your bike, then go for it! It took me around a year before
A: completing my first 100km but I know of people doing it in their first few months as
a cyclist. Go for it!

H O W D O I G E T B E T T E R / F A S T E R O N H I L L S ? ?
Q:
You just ride them. The more you ride hills the better and faster you will get on on
them. I used to take so long riding up even short hills but I keep on going back for
A: more and eventually got faster. There’s no shortcut other than putting in the hard
work and sweat. Enjoy pushing yourself - it’s definitely worth it.

/ /
S I M P L E

H O W F A R I S T O O F A R T O R I D E A S A B E G I N N E R ?
Q:
M A D E

I honestly don’t think there is a limit - just go with what your body feels like. Cycling
is such an incredible sport as it’s so easy on the joints and muscles. Just ensure
A: you are hydrated and eat regularly on rides over 60 minutes.
C Y C L I N G

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RIDING AN
EVENT
CHAPTER 13
RIDING YOUR FIRST EVENT
This is more of a way of getting you thinking than actually asking the question and expecting a definitive
answer.

Sportives are a great way to focus your efforts, ride with loads of other cyclists and achieve a goal. There
are so many out there to suit every kind of cyclist and ability level.

So a sportive is basically an organised ride that is fully supported, I.e. food and water are given at points
along the route.

They can cost from around £10 - £100 depending on the distance and location of the event. I think they are
a great way of working towards something and you will meet lots of other like-minded people at the event.

I remember the first event I ever did it was around 85km and 1500m climbing. It was the shortest of two
routes. I was honestly terrified worrying ‘what if I don’t finish’ ‘what if I can’t get up all the hills’ ‘what if I’m
the last one back’ - none of those things were true which is why mindset (see the chapter on that) is so
important. So sign up, get training and get thinking what can go right instead of what might go wrong.

“I T I S THE
UNKNOWN
AROUND TH E
CORNER THAT

/ /
TURNS MY
WHEELS.” H E I N Z S I M P L E

S TÜCK E, LO NG -
DISTANCE
TOURING CYCLIST
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

71
CHAPTER 13
TOP TIPS
⁃ Pick an event that will be a challenge. There’s no point doing one you think will be super easy. Push
yourself and give yourself something to work towards. It definitely helps you get on the bike more
knowing you have an event coming up.

⁃ Train consistently. There’s no need to smash out 20 hours a week on the bike and then be that
exhausted you can’t train the week after. So just being consistent is the best thing you can do. Do a
few commutes in the week and then do a longer ride each weekend.

⁃ Train for the type of event you are doing. If it’s a hilly route there’s no point training on the flat. Get
yourself up some hills. I also think hills are great training for any ride so find the nearest ones and
enjoy. That’s how I became a good climber because even when I was carrying excess weight I would
love climbing hills.

⁃ Make sure you have food and drink you are used to eating on rides. This is one of the biggest
mistakes you can make; get used to using one brand of gel or energy bar and then use the sportive’s
offering on the day and it not agreeing with you. So check which brands will be available on the day
and try them out prior to the event. Or, just take you own supplies. I generally make sure I have at
least two bars and an emergency gel - just in case.

⁃ Get to the start of the event in plenty of time. There is nothing that causes more stress than rushing
to the start line of an event. Go early, sit and relax before you head to the start and imagine yourself
crossing the finish line. Think positively about all the fun you’re going to have and what you’re going
to achieve.

⁃ Ride to your own ability! There will be a small number of people at these events that think they are in
the Tour de France and will be descending all over the place. Don’t feel you have to keep up. Ride to
how you feel comfortable and don’t take unnecessary risks.

/ /
⁃ Enjoy it and remember…

S I M P L E

IT’S JUST RIDING A BIKE!

M A D E
C Y C L I N G

72
CHAPTER 13
QUESTION AND ANSWER

H O W S O O N S H O U L D Y O U T R Y A S P O R T I V E ?
Q:

As soon as you like. There are so many out there of varying lengths and terrain
there is absolutely something for everybody. It’s also great to have an event to
A: focus on to help build up your distances.

Q: S P O R T I V E V S A U D A X ?

So a sportive is a supported ride as in you get given food and drink along the way.
An audax is completely self supported - so you buy your own food and drink along
A:
the way. They are generally also further in distance.

Q: W H I C H A R E Y O U R F A V O U R I T E S ?

I’ve done a fair few sportives now and I really enjoyed the Fred Whitton, The
Struggle, Mallorca 312 and Ride London. But I also did one around Manchester
A:
when I first started that was around 50km and that was a great introduction to
them.

/ /
S I M P L E

W H I C H I S B E T T E R , S P O R T I V E O R A U D A X ?
Q:
M A D E

Ahhh that is a tough question but they are both quite different and depends if you
are happy to ride alone and sort your own food and drink or whether you prefer
A:
C Y C L I N G

being around others with a livelier atmosphere. I love both - so give them both a
go.

73
WHAT NEXT?
This, my friend, is entirely up to you. Do you want to ride bikes for commuting, riding across the country, or
racing around circuits. There are so many possibilities for you and your cycling journey.

For me it was all about increasing my distance and riding up bigger hills which then led to mountains. It’s
exciting to always be able to take cycling somewhere further.

I never imagined I would be riding the distances or climbs that I am now doing so there’s every option for
you to do the same.

I really hope this guide has helped you in your cycling journey and wish you so much happiness with every
bike ride you go on.

Cycling has completely transformed my life for the better and I hope it will do the same for you.

If you have any questions then head over to my YouTube channel, or my Instagram and connect with me
there.

Here’s to many safe kilometres travelled on two wheels.

I will catch you on YouTube, or my next eBooks.

Katie x

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S I M P L E
M A D E
C Y C L I N G

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 /// CY CL I NG MADE SI MPL E

GET IN TOUC

WHEN I FEEL A
RIDE OR
CHALLENGE IS
TOO BIG, I
REMIND MYSELF,
‘IT’S JUST RIDING
A BIKE!’

EMAIL: [email protected]
WEB: www.ilikemountains.cc
YOUTUBE: Katie Kookaburra
INSTAGRAM: @KatieKookaburra1