Incense and Tea - 2
Incense and Tea - 2
國際茶亭
Tea & Tao Magazine
March 2021
香
順
應
與
自
然
為
所
當
為
茶
Incense & Tea
Part II
Contents Issue 110 / March 2021
GLOBAL EA HUT
Tea & Tao Magazine
魔法水果
Magic Fruit
After a long hiatus, we finally return to the top-
ic of incense and tea, much beloved around here. Love is
Incense ceremony and tea ceremony have a lot in
common, and even in casual tea a nice stick of al-
oeswood can take the session up a notch. We have
changing the world
a very special tea to share this month as we all in-
hale slowly, calm down and find our bliss... bowl by bowl
特稿文章
Features 33
07 The Origin of Incense
by Dr. Incense (新加坡香博士)
25 A Cloud of Fragrance
25
by Zhao Mingming (趙明明)
33 Extracting Incense
by Er Fu Ju Zhu (而富居主) 39
39 Incense is Destiny
by Chen Yuting (陳郁婷)
Traditions
傳統文章
03 Tea of the Month
“Magic Fruit,” Aged Pomelo Tea,
Li Shan, Taiwan
13
49 TeaWayfarer
Neil Barrie, Australia/Japan
© 2021 by Global Tea Hut
All rights reserved.
魔
recycled & recyclable No part of this publication may be
眾 reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys-
神 tem or transmitted in any form or by
的
花
法 any means: electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording, or other-
蜜
水 Soy ink
wise, without prior written permis-
sion from the copyright owner.
果
From the editor
I
n March, things really start warming up in Taiwan. Along with the incense course, we also have a Seven
Our spring comes quite early. But it also is not Genres of Tea course coming to the online course website,
too hot. We love to take this time of year to drink which will be a deep dive into the seven types of tea, includ-
through the last couple of years of sheng tea and ing history, production, science, some preparation and even
periodically break into older teas to see how they are aging. five element theory. We are very excited to take a geeky deep
Taiwan ages puerh in cycle, absorbing water in the spring, dive into tea and together explore this vast world, hope-
then heating up to ferment strongly in the summer, fol- fully creating a better understanding for all of us. This is
lowed by a cool down and drying out in the winter, with a great way to get to know the types of tea in the world,
the autumn as a buffer. Before the teas swing up in mois- providing an excellent map for exploration. For beginners,
ture, it is a great time to see how they are aging, move them such maps can help start the journey with confidence, and
for those who have been practicing for a while, we hope to
around the warehouse or make any other adjustments we
ask many new questions that can change the way we think
need to. This also means we can use this standard to choose
about tea, opening up new avenues of understanding and
any puerh we’d like to press in the coming year when the
new journeys to take on the road to learning more about
tea samples start flowing in. Spring is wood element, so to
this wonderful leaf.
control that we drink white teas, puerh blends with mature We don’t use incense in every tea session, but aloeswood
leaves (huang pian) and lots of aged oolongs. Green teas and can make a session special. It calms us down and doesn’t
young sheng support wood, which helps the vibrancy of linger or interfere with the tea’s aromas. Recently, the two
spring grow stronger, creating more outward energy in our have started to intertwine more and more here in Taiwan.
lives. This is often great as long as it is not overdone. Usually We recently attended an event where every table had one
a balance of these types of tea does a great job, along with person brewing tea and another performing traditional in-
the perennial red teas that underly so many mornings. cense ceremony, so as the cups were poured the censer was
We are very excited this month to return to our second passed around. It was overwhelming, but fun.
installment of tea and incense. And to go with that we are This is an epic issue, with a return to a topic we love.
launching a whole new section on the website for incense We have some great articles from some very wise incense
and incense wares. Some of you know we have been taking makers and practitioners. Hopefully this will inspire you
traditional incense ceremony classes with Yuting, a student to include incense in some of your tea sessions, or even to
of Master Tsai Yizhe who wrote an article in this issue. She begin exploring traditional incense ceremony. We also have
is an excellent teacher and the way she serves incense is so a very unique type of tea to try this month, which should
inspiring to watch. We asked her to help us make some be a lot of fun and offer its own fragrance to go along with
great choices for all the tea and incense lovers in this com- an already aromatic issue!
munity. She chose five levels of high-end and very pure al-
e
oeswood incense, which you can purchase individually or as
a set. There are also some electric roasters for incense chips
and powders with a silver dish included for slow-roasting
incense, which creates a deeper, more textured and much Wu D
longer lasting aroma than burning sticks does. Eventually,
we will also release some tools for traditional incense cere-
mony as well. Yuting actually makes a lot of the necessary
tools herself, which is a great way for us to support her.
Also, we are planning to create an online course with
Yuting so that you can all learn traditional incense ceremo-
ny along with us. She is the kind of teacher who likes to
show more than tell, and is soft-spoken, so we think that we
can even translate in real time as opposed to using subtitles –Further Reading–
or another method. More of the learning will be watching
and then following along at home. Like tea, traditional in- This month, we recommend reading or rereading
cense ceremony can be a great way to cultivate mindfulness the first Incense & Tea issue, which is November
and also enjoy a deep opening of the senses, connecting to of 2016. (Time flies!) It has some great articles
the world in joy beyond thought, concept or category. It on aloeswood and even a guide to a few different
is also a reflection of our cultivation in that we can see the types of traditional incense ceremony to get you
state of our minds in the result, and it seamlessly integrates started in the practice if you want to. It is up on
into a meditative or contemplative life of tea. our website in the archive.
2
of the
ver the course of this month, we will be drink- organic pomelo tea, since the pomelos also must be or-
ing a very special tea, dear to our heart and ganic, of course. There aren’t too many around these
home, which we call “Magic Fruit.” This tea is days, but we know a few farmers who do make them.
literally made inside of pomelos, which ripen around Traditionally, this tea was something found in medicine
the mid-autumn festival in Taiwan and therefore have shops or given to you by farmers, but recently more is
all kinds of cultural and mythological associations with being sold as a healthy beverage, so varieties are pop-
the harvest moon and the holiday. Around that time, so ping up. In most cases, the tea is mixed with some of the
many pomelos are given and then re-gifted to others that pulp (often slightly dried) and then placed back into the
we all end up with big piles of them to eat. Fortunately, carefully hollowed-out pomelo skin. After that, the tea is
they are healthy and delicious. We thought this aromatic steamed and then dried. Traditionally, it is sun dried, but
tea would go well with this month’s theme. roasting is also used depending on the processor’s goals
The reason that this type of tea has a special place in and the weather. Magical Fruit is made with Li Shan (
our heart is that it is a traditional Hakka tea. As most of 梨山) oolong tea that is a bit more heavily oxidized and
you know, we have made a home in Miaoli for decades. then it was sun-dried in the traditional way. After that,
Miaoli is a big hub for Hakka culture. The Hakka (客家) pomelo tea is always aged, and many Hakka people think
are a Chinese ethnicity from the southern part of China, that the older the tea is, the more healing properties it
mostly Guangdong and Fujian. Many of them migrated will have. Typically, a farmer won’t sell the tea until it has
to Miaoli and Hsinchu long ago. Like many Chinese eth- sat for a few years. They often hang the stuffed pomelos
nicities, they have a special history, their own language, up as decoration as they age, since it is often hemp string
culture, cuisine and more. We love Hakka people. They holding the pomelo closed. Magical Fruit is from 2015,
are very down-to-earth and hospitable. They are a big which is a decent amount of time to settle, fully dry and
part of why we fell in love with Miaoli in the first place. develop complexity. The age also mellows it out.
Some of you may remember that our annual Food & When you brew the tea, you include a bit of the pom-
Tea issue from January 2017 mentioned leicha (擂茶), elo rind in with the leaves, which further enriches the
a ground blend of tea and various nuts, seeds and beans flavors, aromas and energy of this special medicine.
that changes house to house. The Hakka often serve it to You will most likely understand why this is often used
guests. Pomelo tea is a traditional medicine that Hakka for sore throats, as it coats the mouth and throat with a
people use to treat colds, coughs, sore throats and gen- thick, oily liquor. Inferior versions of pomelo tea taste
eral ill-ease, and they always suggest boiling some when like pomelo only, and you cannot taste the tea through
you don’t feel well. Of course, this may also have to do the fruit. Magical Fruit, however, shines through with
with the vitamin C in the pomelo, but there is more to it both tea and fruit. We can even taste the age as well, but
from a Traditional Chinese Medicine perspective. we have had several types of pomelo tea. The energy of
Like leicha, there are many different recipes for this tea is strong and we find it calming and Yin, which
Hakka pomelo tea. It is often made with oolong tea but means you can also drink this tea in the late afternoon
sometimes it is also made with red tea—more often re- or early evening. The citrus is also nice in the morning if
cently, as variety pomelo tea has gained a tiny bit of trac- you wish. There are special ways to brew this tea, which
tion in the market. It is a bit challenging to find a clean, we discuss on the next page.
3
Magic Fruit (魔法水果)
Li Shan, Taiwan 陳 傳
年 統
客
Brewing Tips
沖泡技巧 完成好茶
This month’s tea is a bit unique. It can be brewed gongfu. If you do that,
you can treat it as you would a shou puerh. It can also be brewed sidehandle
with similar results. However, traditionally, the best flavors, aromas and medicinal
qualities of this tea only come out in boiling. A Hakka friend would always boil this
tea for you, whether it was because you weren’t feeling well or as preventative medicine.
Nowadays, they also offer it as a beverage of hospitality sometimes, but this is still rare and
only at tea farmers’ houses or tea shops in our experience.
You can also brew this tea as “kitchen tea,” which we discussed in January, meaning just
very casually in large, glazed pots, using a long steeping time and straining it into mugs. This
is an excellent way to enjoy Magic Fruit. We often boil some and then strain it into a mug.
Holding a steaming mug of this tea on a cold afternoon or evening while you read a book or
chat with a loved one is an amazing way to spend some time—very comforting and relaxing, not
to mention the medicinal benefits. While it works so much better after it has been boiled, which
we will discuss more below, you can also steep it. If you are using a large pot, you may want to let
it steep for a while, especially for the second, third or fourth mug (or beyond).
One thing to keep in mind when preparing this tea is to be careful about your teaware. Of
course, glazed bowls or cups are fine, but you may not want to use your Yixing pot, unglazed si-
dehandle or cauldron for boiling. The flavor of the pomelo in this tea is strong and could linger,
affecting future sessions with that teaware. If you don’t mind that and choose to use such teaware, we
would recommend removing the tea immediately after the session. Leaving the tea in the pot could
amplify this effect and all your tea will taste like pomelo until you scour your teaware.
As we have repeated often, because it is important, you will get so much more out of Magic Fruit
if you boil it. We recommend a glass kettle. It will be easy to clean and won’t impact future sessions.
If you don’t have a glass kettle, you should consider getting one. They are cheap and they are great to
have around to learn from: you can see the changes in the water as it boils. Watching tea change at
different temperatures is a very useful lesson to improve our tea brewing skills. Also, they are perfect
for making kitchen tea as well. Many tea friends around the world use them to make kitchen tea
out of spent leaves, which is a great way to get so much more out of all the tea you order. If you
haven’t yet made a habit of re-boiling spent leaves, give it a try. It may change your life! We would
also recommend our boiled tea course, which covers all aspects of boiled tea.
If you don’t have a glass kettle and aren’t interested in getting one, don’t be afraid to boil this
tea in an ordinary sauce pan. You will need a good strainer if you are going to do this, but even an
ordinary kitchen one will do if you pour carefully over the sink, straining the liquor into mugs.
Also, let this tea boil for as long as you like. It will be slightly sour, of course, due to the pomelo
but it won’t overboil. It will just grow in terms of the Chinese herbal flavors, medicinal energy
and depth when drinking it. Have fun with this month’s tea, and take in the aroma deeply
before we light some incense together!
世
界
香
之
各
地
古
老
源
香
氣
8
Incense & Tea
10
Incense & Tea
Once the trees become the channels Aromatic plants are similar, but envoy from “Western countries (xi guo,
where Heaven and Earth meet (天地 more complicated. Once invaded by 西國)” to offer incense that looked like
合), life begins (萬物生). At this mo- bacteria or fungi, a large amount of ar- the eggs of the swallow or red dates.
ment, a wonderful Taichi diagram ap- omatic or unscented compounds will It was burned when an extremely se-
pears. If you understand the meaning be generated to resist the invasion or vere plague afflicted Chang’an. Within
of this diagram, you will discover the heal themselves. And some of these a very short time, those who were ill
biggest secret behind this ancient wis- substances are treasures that make recovered, and people within a radius
dom. This is also the highest state pur- people crazy. The myrrh mentioned of 100 li (50 km) could smell the fra-
sued by ancient sages, to be connected above is another good example. When grance of the incense. For nine months
with Heaven and Earth directly and the myrrh tree is injured, the magical the fragrance hung in the air and did
gain eternal life. resin, which has very strong healing not dissipate. This story sounds amaz-
As plants play such a unique role to power, will be accumulated. This is ing, but in fact, herbs and incense have
life on Earth, during the growth pro- why Queen Hatshepsut sent her navy been used as medicine for thousands of
cess, they have endless power to pro- to look for it along the Red Sea and years.
duce a variety of wonderful substances, burned Kyphi every day to vitalize her No matter which country or reli-
scientifically called “secondary metab- skin and hair. Meanwhile, the ancient gion, incense plays an important role
olites,” many of which can be used Egyptians also began to extract the es- in every part of our lives. It seems to
as medicines to fight against harmful sence of aromatics by using animal fat. be a holy thing from Heaven. For ex-
microbes, treat diseases or maintain Once heated up, the liquified fat was ample, it is recorded in a hadith col-
our health. A good example is tea, of used as a kind of solvent; the essence of lection, “The first group of people who
course, which was originally used as aromatic plants could be easily extract- will enter Paradise… their sweat will
an antidote, according to one of the ed if soaked in it and it would become smell like musk. Aloeswood will be
legends associated with Shennong and a healing cream when cooled. This is used in their centers.” More impor-
the discovery of tea (illustrated below). also the origin of modern cosmetics tantly, it is the way to keep us connect-
Tea was also described in Compendi- and skin care products. ed with Heaven and Earth all the time.
um of Materia Medica (本草纲目) as In ancient China, the system we But why have we modern people
promoting bowel functions, dispelling now call “Traditional Chinese Medi- lost our connection to Nature through
heat and dissolving phlegm. Modern cine” was established. In this system, aroma? Since the beginning of the In-
science has also proven that the cate- many herbs are considered or used as dustrial Revolution, synthetic materi-
chins from tea are natural antioxidants remedies, which is the homology of als and industrial products have greatly
that help prevent cell damage and pro- medicine and incense (香藥同源). changed our lives. The commodifica-
vide other benefits. Since tea has so There are even records of many magic tion theory has created a standardized
many functions, we cannot live with- incenses used to treat diseases. Accord- and cheapened world since before
out it. From another point of view, the ing to the Records of Diverse Matters we were born—day and night, from
tea tree has become a perfect carrier for (博物志), during the reign of Emperor the toothpaste and shower gel to our
us to connect with Heaven and Earth. Han Wu (141–87 BCE), there came an shampoo, and from laundry detergent
to the additives and colors in our food,
we have gradually adapted to the smell
of chemically synthesized aromatic
compounds. We have totally forgot-
神 ten the feeling of real fragrance or es-
sence from Nature. And more impor-
農 tantly, forgotten where we are from.
Our senses have also become dull and
藥
Therefore, I have insisted upon
making my own incense for more than
草
ten years. Everyone thinks I am only a
craftsman; they don’t realize that I am
皇
also a messenger from ancient times. I
am hiding an ancient story in every in-
cense stick I make. When you light it
后 up, the smoke is telling you this story
and trying to wake you up. The origin
of incense is the same origin of our-
selves.
13
Incense & Tea
they also used all manner of fragrances lighted by incense.” In Buddhism, in- essential elements of Zen Buddhism,
in their daily lives, and eventually this cense performs the functions of purify- whether it be during meditation ses-
craze for incense found its way into ing, making offerings and embodying sions where the head monk would
the lives of ordinary folk. Even today, spiritual practice. walk circuits with incense as a remind-
when people are praying to the gods During the Tang Dynasty, incense er for the monks to focus, or when the
or making offerings to their ancestors, used for religious purposes developed head monk would make rounds of all
they won’t forget to light a stick of in- and matured. Even just in the under- the dwellings in the temple area carry-
cense. ground palaces of Tang Dynasty Bud- ing incense and tea, or the offering of
Historical records of the develop- dhist temples, a great many different incense and tea when welcoming re-
ment of tea testify that tea drinking incense burners and implements have vered senior monks to the temple. To
was already widespread among the been discovered, including “smoky in- a Buddhist practitioner, incense and
general populace as early as the Han, cense” burners, long-handled burners, tea were standard elements of ritual
Wei and Jin dynasties and the Six Dy- perfume sachets and incense spoons. activities, but also an essential part of
nasties (222–589), and each region The traditional functions of incense a spiritual life. During the Tang Dy-
had its own tea-drinking tradition. began from the earliest uses of fragrant nasty, there were a great many different
Consequently, it was still very much a substances in dispelling bad odors, tea regions, harvesting and processing
regional drink, with each area having bathing, perfuming clothes, making methods, and tea-drinking methods,
its own localized customs. Classic tea offerings to gods and ancestors, ward- and evaluating the flavor of differ-
writings, from Du Yu’s Jin Dynasty ing off evil, medical treatments and ent teas was still mainly the purview
Essay on Tea to Lu Yu’s Tang Dynasty consumption as food and beverages; of scholars such as Lu Yu, who wrote
Tea Sutra, not only recorded tea histo- Buddhists later incorporated the sen- the classic Tea Sutra, including topics
ry and differentiated tea regions, but sory experiences of the nose (smell), such as the origins of tea, methods of
also established the use of various tea eyes (color), ears (sound), tongue tea drinking and tea implements, and
implements. The tea culture that arose (taste), body (touch) and mind (dhar- generally extolling the virtues of tea. In
from Lu Yu’s work was heavily influ- ma) into many different practices that the late Tang Dynasty, prime minister
enced by monks and hermits, creating they employed on their path toward Fei Wen wrote the following praise in
a focus on the harmonious interplay enlightenment. his book All About Tea: “its character
between the natural environment and One incense-related example of is fine and pure, its flavor grand and
the scholar’s state of mind. this is the aforementioned story of the clean; drinking it washes away all wor-
The central link between tea and youth who attained enlightenment ries and brings great harmony.”
incense is Buddhism. In Buddhist tra- after smelling incense. An example During the Tang and Song (960–
dition, tea is ascribed the three virtues involving tea is the rite of gathering 1279) dynasties, incense and tea cul-
of being able to ward off sleepiness, aid to drink tea and beat tea drums in ture had become widespread; burning
digestion and dispel lustful thoughts. Buddhist temples and monasteries. In incense and serving tea as part of spir-
Incense is said to have cleansing quali- the Tang Dynasty book Bai Zhang’s itual practice, as an aid in meditation
ties and is used for purification, prayer Monastic Rules, we find proof of the and spiritual understanding, was not
and spiritual practice; it is a sacred item convergence of tea and incense in the just limited to Buddhist monks in
used to make offerings to the Buddhas Zen (Chan) Buddhist tradition, in the temples. Rather, its influence grad-
and Bodhisattvas. Incense and tea have description of a “serving tea and burn- ually spread to scholars and ordinary
thus become essential elements of Bud- ing incense” ceremony. Bai Zhang’s folk. From this, we can get an idea of
dhist practice. There is a record in the Monastic Rules describes how at Bud- the profound artistic and philosophi-
Surangama Sutra that relates the story dhist temples, there were specialized cal insight achieved by incense and tea
of a young boy given the title “Pure attendants in charge of the complex masters, as well as the incomparable
Youth, Adorned with Fragrance” who duties related to tea and incense. For feeling of serenity and mystery that tea
attained enlightenment and became example, there was a tea attendant and incense can bring to us all.
an Arhat after smelling aloeswood in- who specialized in boiling the water to The fragrance of incense and the
cense. The Bodhidharma’s Doctrine of brew the tea, as well as serving tea and flavor of tea often begin as simply a
Understanding also contains the fol- attending to guests; there was also an way to satisfy the physical senses,and
lowing metaphor: “The Buddha is in incense attendant who was in charge later develop into something to be
the heart, just as the incense is in the of all things related to incense. These evaluated, distinguishing the fine from
tree. The Buddha comes from a heart high-status attendants carried out in- the crude; from this, they may evolve
freed of suffering, just as incense comes cense ceremonies at all the main ac- further into a way to quiet the mind
from a tree freed of decay. We know tivities that went on in the monastery, and seek spiritual understanding, to
that there is no incense outside of the such as large formal Buddhist teaching reach a spiritual state where virtue is
tree, just as there is no Buddha outside sessions by the masters, smaller infor- experienced via the nose and mouth.
of the heart. If there is incense outside mal teaching sessions, public teach- Just as all rivers flow to the sea, this
of the tree, it is not true incense; if ing sessions, ceremonies and prayer evolutionary “flow” flourished on all
there is a Buddha outside of the heart, sessions. Their duties also involved these levels in the Song Dynasty. The
it is not the true Buddha.” In the Jin transcribing the Buddhist teachings at influence of that era’s Tribute Tea
Dynasty, Ge Hong wrote that “there is these events. So, through the conver- (gong cha, 貢茶) affected every type
nary a human nose which is not de- gence of tea and incense, both became of tea in the realm, from low to high.
16
Incense & Tea
18
Incense & Tea
which contains the line “the beast- the shape of a dish. When placed atop teachers, perhaps out of a desire to dis-
shaped flame makes the mica glow a this sheet, the incense will not come play their skills, will do all of this at
subtle red.” This description refers to into contact with the flame, so it will the incense session itself: lighting the
the red glow of the animal-shaped burn at a leisurely pace without emit- incense charcoal with a lighter, slicing
incense cake on the mica plate. The ting any smoke.” This method was very the incense with a knife and so forth.
Incense Manual written in the Song popular in Japan and became a part of Personally, I don’t think this is as nice.
Dynasty by Chen Jing contains a the Japanese incense tradition. The good thing is that Taiwanese
quote from Yan’s History of Incense: Wherever there was a love for in- scholars of incense are still hard at work
Burning Incense that states, “The burn- cense, beautifully made incense im- on their research and have found a pas-
ing of incense should take place in a plements were bound to follow. In the sage on the partition incense method
quiet room tucked away deep in the Japanese incense tradition, there are in an ancient book called Superfluous
house. The burner should be set on a seven different tools: fire chopsticks, Things: “For the fire partition, clay
low table, about knee-height.” Silver an ash tamper, a feather brush, tongs fragments are the best choice, while
leaf—in other words, silver fashioned for holding the silver leaf, an incense Ding fragments are the second best
into a very fine leaf-like layer—is also a spoon, incense chopsticks and a thin, and jade is the third best. Gold and sil-
lovely material to use for the fire parti- needle-like tool called an oriole pin. ver cannot be used. An excellent choice
tion. Yang Tingxiu of the Jin Dynasty The seven tools are placed upright in is a piece of asbestos cloth about the
wrote these lines in his Incense Poem: the “incense chopstick jar,” a vessel size of a coin, with inlaid silver edges.”
“A three-legged porcelain stove, jade- made for holding them. The incense When I learned of the use of “Ding
green as water; silver leaf pared as fine chopsticks are made of wood and are fragments,” namely shards of broken
as paper. An even flame, not timid used for picking up any small frag- pottery from the Song Dynasty Ding
nor fierce; sealed beneath its cover, no ments of incense wood that may have kilns, for heating incense, I found this
breeze blows.” From this, we can see fallen onto the tatami mat, or to take quite eye-opening. The character ding
that the partition method of burning out small pieces of incense to test (定) is indeed a Song Dynasty kiln
incense has more than 1,200 years of them. When it comes to taking out the name, but it is also the same character
history. In my opinion, the person who incense wood to properly start using it, used in the context of Zen Buddhist
made the greatest contribution to in- this is a job for the incense spoon. As meditation, meaning “samadhi,” or a
cense traditions was Dong Ruoyu, who for the “oriole” (named for a species of state of meditative consciousness (its
popularized the “smoke-free incense bird), it is used for pinning in place the literal meaning in Chinese is some-
method” in the late Ming Dynasty small slips of paper that are used for thing like “fixedness”). In this sense,
and expounded extensively on the way evaluating the incense. Ding pottery fragments perfectly cap-
of incense. The “smoke-free” method The Japanese incense tradition, ture the spirit of the Way of Incense:
meant not lighting the incense direct- called “kōdō,” has two main schools: they lack the expensive aura of silver,
ly, but instead using any “roasting” Oie and Shino. The implements used they give a good result, and they en-
method that doesn’t produce smoke, in each school differ slightly; for ex- capsulate the values of appreciating the
hence the name. It is also referred to ample, the incense tamper in the Oie incense, seeking spiritual understand-
as “roasting the incense separate from tradition is tablet-shaped, while in ing, cultivating the mind and convey-
the flame.” the Shino tradition it is fan-shaped. ing a sense of culture and ceremony.
In the first chapter of The No-Smoke Taiwan has largely inherited the seven In terms of the choice of fragrance,
Incense Method, “Notes on No-Smoke fire-tending tools of the Japanese tradi- there are two main categories of in-
Incense,” Dong Ruoyu writes, “Burn- tion, though often with some adjust- cense: single-scent and blended. Sin-
ing mugwort instead of incense is too ments. For example, the wooden in- gle-scent incense means using a sin-
outdated a practice and should not be cense chopsticks and oriole pin are not gle type of raw material and slicing it
repeated. Burning incense instead of used much in mainstream Taiwanese into pieces; the most common type in
roasting it is too vulgar a custom and methods. On top of the core five tools, this category is wood incense such as
must be reformed.” So, the smoke-free these last two are often replaced by an aloeswood or sandalwood. The oth-
incense method was seen as more re- incense knife and cutting board, which er category is blended incense, which
fined. The partition placed on top of have become a common sight in Tai- is produced by grinding the fragrant
the flame in the smoke-free method wan. The biggest difference between raw materials into a fine powder and
could be made of various materials, the two traditions is that in Taiwan, then blending them according to a
such as fine sheets of pottery, mica, people often forego the Japanese-style recipe. The resulting incense can then
jade, silver, stone, porcelain or cop- “chopstick jar” used to store the uten- be burned as a powder or formed into
per. Pottery and porcelain are the best sils and instead lay all the tools out flat balls or discs. Single-scent incense has
choices for the partition in the smoke- in a row. This is a shame, as it tends to a pure aroma, with fewer diverse and
free incense method, as they result in a create a somewhat busy, messy feeling. interesting variations than blended
milder, purer fragrance, at once elegant In addition, the Japanese traditional incense. At a tea gathering, where in-
and relaxed. This choice of material is involves doing a lot of advance prepa- cense is secondary, it’s better to choose
recorded as early as the Song Dynasty, ration: for example, burning the in- stamped incense, incense balls or in-
as noted in Chen Jing’s Yan’s History cense charcoal and slicing the incense cense sticks. They are easy to burn and
of Incense: Burning Incense: “Atop the are all done beforehand. By contrast, you don’t have to mindfully attend to
flame, place a sheet of silver or mica in many Taiwanese incense students and them.
Stamped incense
Stamped incense is made by grinding various fragrant ma-
terials into a powder then blending them according to a recipe.
The incense powder can then be molded into all sorts of shapes
using an incense stamp or seal, such as Chinese characters
or decorative patterns, before being burned. In Chinese, this
method has various names, largely composed of different com-
binations of two characters: “stamp (yin, 印),” for the way in
which the pattern is created, and “seal (zhuan, 篆),” which also
refers to the ancient seal script style of calligraphy—the incense
is often stamped into Chinese characters in this script style. An-
other name sometimes used for this method is “winding water
incense,” or “qu shui xiang (曲水香).” There’s a Song Dynas-
ty poem by Liu Zihui that contains the line, “In a noontime
dream, I do not notice the edges smudging away; the stamped
incense has burned out, leaving a dish of smoky flowers.” This is
a vivid description of the traces of ash left behind once this type
of stamped incense has burned away. In fact, stamped incense
can also be used as a way to measure the passing of time—by
stamping a pattern into a dish of incense powder, you can then
observe how much of the pattern has burned away to mark the
passing time. At some point during the Song Dynasty, due to
a serious drought, stamped incense was used to mark the time
of day (they were using water clocks previously and switched to
the duration it took the incense to burn); there was also a spe-
cial design called “hundred-moments stamped incense” which
divided the twelve traditional Chinese time divisions of the day
into a total of one hundred marked sections, so that one dish of
incense could be burned for an entire day and night.
22
Incense & Tea
Thus concludes our quite lengthy (蟲漏), produced by the cracks formed From this, we learn that only pure,
discussion of tea and incense in ancient by insects.” Shu jie, literally “produced natural chen xiang can be used in med-
times. But how, then, can we incor- by ripening/maturing,” indicates that icine; aloeswood incense that is artifi-
porate traditional incense techniques the incense was naturally formed in cially removed and is not given enough
into a modern tea session? Here I have the tree, then when the tree eventual- time to form can be burned, but it is
briefly touched on three methods that ly died and fell over, it was buried in not worthy of use at an incense appre-
you can put into practice yourself. This the ground and the aloeswood incense ciation session, and it certainly can’t be
is the “Noble Incense & Tea Ceremo- was transformed by microorganisms used in medicine.
ny” that I have created together with over many years. Tuoluo, literally “fall- If you can make your own incense
Noble Incense teacher Chen Yuting. en off,” indicates that the incense was to use in your tea session, so much the
This method is based on the “trio and formed via a process of decay after the better. You could choose to use incense
duo” of incense implements that be- tree was infected by a fungus or bacte- powder to make stamped incense, or
came mainstream during the Ming ria. Not all types of aloeswood incense instead use naturally sticky powder to
and Qing dynasties. The “trio” consists can be used in medicines, as indicated make pure incense balls without the
of an incense burner, incense box and in this passage: “There are some kinds addition of honey or date juice. Or you
utensil jar (literally “incense bottle”), that are formed quickly and are ob- could roll it into long sticks instead—
while the “duo” refers to the incense tained by chopping them out; other the thickness is up to you—and after
chopsticks and ash tamper (literally kinds mature slowly and are obtained drying them in the shade, you can light
“incense spade”). These implements by a process of decay. Large pieces can them directly as incense sticks. These
are thoroughly emblematic of the be carved and are known as ‘water dish are all well suited to accompanying nat-
Ming and Qing dynasties. pieces.’ These cannot be used in med- ural teas. In his poem Burning Incense,
Just as we only choose organic, icine, though they can be burned.” Song Dynasty author Chen Yuyi wrote:
ecologically grown tea, we also only
use pure, natural aloeswood incense.
Aloeswood is also known in English
as Chinese eaglewood or agarwood; Beneath the bright window
the tree’s scientific name is Aquilariae I spread my book;
擺
lignum resinatum, and in Chinese it is
called “chen xiang (沉香).” Aloeswood I read in silence
incense is the dried wood of this resin- and drift away from earthly cares.
ous tree, which belongs to the Thyme- The boundless knowledge
laeaceae family of flowering plants and
脫
is closely related to another species of the scriptures
in the same genus, Aquilaria sinensis is contained within
(Lour.) Gilg. It is highly esteemed as a this column of smoke.
natural incense and a raw material for
In the moment, the threefold training
塵
handcrafted ornaments, as well as be-
ing a prized ingredient for Traditional brings a wondrous unity
Chinese Medicine. Ming Dynasty bot- of human and Heaven.
anist Li Shizhen summarized the his- Surely this is true peace and clarity of the soul?
torical classification of incense in his
My heart has awakened
世
Compendium of Medical Herbs: “There
are three grades of incense, which are to the moment.
called “chen (沉), zhan (棧) and huang- Smoke from the burner rises,
shu (黃熟).” In Chinese, the name
“chen xiang” literally means “sinking/
a graceful, lonely jade;
dispersing now
的
sunken incense,” because it sinks in
water; “zhan (stack)” incense will half into countless snowy wisps.
sink and half float, while “huangshu It climbs leisurely toward the sky,
(yellow ripened)” incense does not
sink. He goes on to say the following: drifting to haze,
煩
“Chen xiang sinks in water. It comes blown back into being by the wind.
in four varieties. Firstly, there is shu jie As life goes by,
(熟結), produced by coagulation in
the veins of the tree and the subsequent
past becomes present
rotting away of the surrounding wood. yet the smoke’s essence
惱̀
Then there is sheng jie (生結), which remains unchanged.
forms in the veins of the tree after it Like the moon in the water—
is chopped down. Next, there is tuoluo
(脫落), which is produced by rot from as ripples still,
water damage. Lastly, there is chonglou it becomes round once more.”
23/ The Noble Tea & Incense Ceremony
In the Yuan Dynasty, a Zen monk This is a small poem I wrote about hope that through promoting the No-
known as Liao’an Qingyu, who is fa- tea and incense in the modern day. ble Incense & Tea Ceremony, we can
mous for his paintings and calligraphy, Tea and incense are two of the purest once again find our way on the path of
wrote a poem that goes: “My life is a threads of Chinese culture; they were tea and incense. This means not sim-
peaceful one, unworthy of great com- not only traditionally beloved by no- ply indulging in sensory pleasures and
ment; a column of sweet fragrance bility and scholars, but also became using incense and tea ceremonies not
brings idle contentment. When I’m popular among ordinary people. They just to connect with friends, but also
sleepy, there is tea; when I’m hungry, are tools of religious and spiritual prac- to calm our minds, attain balance in
there is food. I walk and watch the tice, but also everyday, commonplace body and spirit and embark on a path
flowing brook; I sit and watch the things; they are symbols of cultured re- of harmony and meditation.
clouds.” For a feeling of serenity, sip- finement, yet also items that belong to
ping tea alone or in a pair is ideal; it ordinary folk. Tang Dynasty Buddhist
creates a lightness of atmosphere that scholar and calligrapher Pei Xiu once
is worthy of savoring. This does not made this profound comment upon
come from the tea, nor from the in- receiving a rotten mulberry tree root:
cense alone, but also from the feeling “if it were not for aloeswood incense,
of harmony between two good friends I would think no differently of it; even
sharing the present moment. if I thought of aloeswood incense as a
mulberry root, I would still not smell
At Long Cui Fang, its fragrance. The appearance of all
our hut apart from earthly clamor, things starts from the heart.” Today,
Tea and incense as incense and tea sessions have come
guide us in quiet meditation. back into vogue, people have turned
With no thought of praise, towards the pursuit of material desires
we dispel errant thoughts; and have forgotten the original inten-
Nothing is worth wasted worry tion behind tea and incense. I dearly
24
A Cloud
of
Fragrance
Incense Ceremony Accoutrements
25
香
繞
Incense & Tea
During the Song and Yuan (1279– the same since it was established in string-pattern two-handled gui-style
1368) dynasties, personal incense the Song and Yuan dynasties. Song burner and the gui-style burner with
burners that were lightweight, easily Dynasty burners have two notable two fish-shaped handles.
portable and simple in shape became characteristics: the first is that thanks Burners that are specially made for
increasingly common. Copper incense to progress in the porcelain industry, incense must be well insulated and
burners from the Xuande era (1426– porcelain incense burners began to be handy to use; the body of the burner
1435) of the Ming Dynasty are very produced in great numbers, with the should be light and easy to pass around.
famous and much sought after by col- five big official kilns (the Ru, Guan, The mouth of the burner directs the
lectors. The history of incense burners Ge, Ding and Jun kilns) producing fragrance toward the nose and doesn’t
is, in a sense, the history of incense use. many famous masterpieces. The sec- have any handles. The Japanese in-
Even after a piece of aloeswood ond was the discovery of some ancient cense tradition or kōdō uses a cylindri-
has burned away, the incense burner bronze implements dating to the very cal incense burner with straight sides,
is left behind and may endure a long, early Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties three feet and a smooth glaze, quite
long time. It’s no wonder that so many (around 2100–256 BCE) during this similar in style to the Northern Song
people like to collect these antique ar- period, which led to a major trend for Ding Kiln three-footed string-pattern
tifacts. Yet collecting incense burners “antique” shapes. The combined result burner and the Southern Song Longq-
without being discerning about what of these two factors was a proliferation uan Kiln pale green zun-style (gob-
you burn in them is akin to the fool- of porcelain incense burners made to let-shaped) burner. When the burner
ish action in the old saying, “buying a imitate the shapes of ancient vessels is passed around and it nestles in your
wooden box and returning the pearls such as a ge (鬲, a three-legged caul- hands while you smell the incense, it
inside.” In the early days, antique mer- dron), gui (簋, a round vessel with two feels wonderful to the touch. During
chants began selling aloeswood along or four handles on the sides) or ding the Ming and Qing dynasties, cylindri-
with their wares; their bargain prices (鼎, a three- or four-legged cauldron). cal incense burners became more and
disrupted the existing monopoly in Some famous examples of these Song more prolific; some typical examples
the aloeswood market, but also helped Dynasty burners are the Longquan are the Ming Dehua-era Ruyi-foot-
drive the trend for incense. Kiln celadon ge-style burner, the Ding ed cylindrical burner, the Ming Xu-
The shape of modern-day incense Kiln cream-colored string-pattern gui- ande-era blue-and-white porcelain
burners has remained more or less style burner, the Guan Kiln pale green vine-patterned zun-style three-footed
28
Incense & Tea
香
瓶
內
的
主
要
工
具̀
Main Tools in the “Chopstick Jar”
Incense jar itself called by the same name: “xiang bi (香 out and blending incense.” They are
(chopstick/utensil jar) 匕),” roughly meaning “incense ladle.” used for making a blend of incense and
The jar used to hold small incense The History of Incense contains this ref- grasping wood incense. However, to-
tools such as an incense ladle, scoop, erence: “When it comes to incense la- day some of their functions have been
tamper, spoon and tongs is heavier dles, flattening the ash and placing the delegated to other tools—the incense
on the bottom and lighter on the top fire source requires a round one, while poker and incense tongs.
so that it won’t fall over easily. This is scooping the incense powder requires a
called a “xiang ping (香瓶).” In Mr. pointed one.” So, we could say that in Incense poker:
Yan’s History of Incense, the author also modern times, the tasks of an “incense xiang tan (香探)
talks about a “Song Dynasty incense ladle” have now been divided between Once the incense ash has been
pot” (song ren xiang hu, 宋人香壺), three different tools: an incense scoop, spread out, this needle-like tool is used
which has the same function. Some- an incense spoon and an ash tamper. to poke a hole in the ash to ventilate
times the incense jar will have a closed the flame. Since it is similar in shape to
top with holes in it to insert each im- Ash tamper: a hairpin, some people also used one
plement, which looks much like a slice end of a silver hairpin for this purpose.
of lotus root. This type is called a cha
hui ya (灰押 or 灰壓)
Among the historical incense artifacts
Used for tidying the incense ash
tong (插筒), literally a “cylinder for that have been discovered, there are
and pressing it flat. In ancient China
sticking things in.” also some dual-purpose incense tools
incense tampers had flat surfaces, but
with a spoon on one end and a poker
in Japan, they often had cut-out de-
on the other.
Incense spoon: signs on them to stamp a pattern in the
xiang chi (香匙) incense while tamping it down. There’s
Used for scooping incense powder also another type of round incense Incense tongs:
or small incense fragments. tamper called a “flower-tipped tamper xiang jia (香夾)
(ding hua, 頂花),” which is specially These tongs are used for grasping
for making a decoratively shaped hole silver leaf or mica plates for the incense
Incense scoop: in the ash to ventilate the flame. partition. They can be used to grasp the
xiang chan (香鏟) plate from the top and bottom or from
Used for scooping up incense pow- two sides. The incense tongs used in
der or flattening and tidying up in- Chopsticks: xiang zhu (香箸) the Japanese tradition have a pointed
cense ash. Its name literally means “in- or xiang kuai (香筷) top prong and a flat bottom one, per-
cense spade.” In ancient times, incense According to the Compendium of fect for grasping the silver frames that
spoons and incense scoops were both Incense, these are “used for both taking go around the edges of mica plates.
These are also referred to as “silver leaf Wei Dynasty (386–534) containing also had a secret method of preserving
tongs.” These days, incense tongs come Buddhist art featuring the figures of a incense using purified honey (which is
in many different designs, but they are flying Feitian spirit and another per- treated through a boiling process and
all basically used in the same way. son making an offering, each holding often used as an ingredient in Chinese
an incense burner in one hand and an medicine). The incense boxes had two
incense box in the other. or three compartments inside—people
The Incense Box The literati of the Ming and Qing would put the purified honey on the
dynasties were fond of red lacquerware bottom layer and store the aloeswood
Xiang He (香盒) incense boxes. Eight Discourses on the incense on the upper layer with a mesh
or Xiang Cheng (香盛) Nurturing of Life and another Ming partition in between. Apparently when
Dynasty book, Notes on the Trimmings stored in this manner, the incense
This is a box for storing incense in. of Life, both make mention of carved would grow more and more fragrant
The Compendium of Incense contains red lacquerware. As described in Notes over time. For modern folk, however,
the following passage: “The container, on the Trimmings of Life, “these incense this is too much of a hassle—it’s suf-
or box, is for storing burners and oth- boxes are coral-red in color; they are ficient simply to store each different
er such items. Any material that does lined with tin on the inside, and the type of incense separately to ensure the
not dry out is acceptable, and it is im- outer layer is lacquerware. The beau- fragrances don’t muddle together.
portant not to use unsmelted copper tiful carvings on the outside of these The items stored in an incense box
vessels, as the items inside can easily boxes are a delight to behold, and they are as follows:
deteriorate and take on an unpleasant are decorated with great care accord-
odor.” Incense boxes should be made ing to the saying: ‘One, the sword-
from an airtight material that does not hilt ring; two, the flowers and foliage; Fine plates for separating
produce unwanted odors; copper and three, the figures of people.’” the incense from the flame
iron often give off a metallic smell, Porcelain incense boxes were also
so they are not suitable for storing al- very common, and China even im- Fine layers or plates of various ma-
oeswood incense. Aside from those, ported them from Vietnam and Japan terials are used to separate aloeswood
you can find incense boxes made from during that era, according to Eight Dis- incense from the fire source. These
all sorts of materials: silver or gold, tin, courses on the Nurturing of Life. How- can be made of silver leaf, mica, jade
ivory, enamel, jade, cowrie shells, pot- ever, from the artifacts that archae- or porcelain—all materials that are
tery, porcelain, lacquerware and even ologists have unearthed, nobles and flame-resistant and odorless. Some say
carved bamboo. Scholars have discov- aristocrats favored precious gold, silver that these materials have different ef-
ered a grotto dating to the Northern and jade incense boxes. The ancients fects and are suited to certain incense.
30
Incense & Tea
From the Tang Dynasty until today, Partitions made from thin sheets of sil- Incense dregs dish
Chinese people have been using these ver are the best, in my opinion; when A small dish for placing the leftover
sorts of “fire partitions” for smoky in- they get dirty you can simply wipe incense after you are done with your
cense for more than a thousand years. them clean with alcohol and they’ll incense session.
Eight Discourses on the Nurturing of Life be as good as new. These days, many
contains the following reference: “The people also use sheets of mica as fire
aim of burning incense is to produce partitions. Fire chopsticks
fragrance, not to produce smoke. If the A pair of chopsticks for picking up
incense is too smoky, the fragrance will Incense knives the incense charcoal. Metal ones are
burst forth unimpeded and exhaust These tools are used for cutting or superior to those made from wood or
itself in no time at all. To bring out paring off pieces of incense. The Jap- ivory.
the fragrance, to produce a serene and anese incense tradition involves some
long-lasting aroma that does not dissi- quite complex incense cutting tools Ash sweeper (or “feather broom”)
pate quickly, one must use a partition and cutting boards, but the Chinese Used to lightly sweep away the
to separate the incense from the flame. tradition doesn’t yet have any estab- incense ash from beside the burner.
Some people use silver coins or pieces lished custom as to the type of cut- In modern times, some people wipe
of semi-translucent tile (such as mica) ting tools used. That said, I find that the ash away with a silk cloth instead,
for this purpose; these are all crude incense knives with too large a blade which is called an ash cloth or incense
methods that do not give good results, are not very aesthetically appealing, so cloth.
as they become very hot and do not as long as the blade is fine enough and
insulate against the flame. Only jade the knife functions well and is easy to
flakes give a pleasing result, though hold and handle, it will do just fine. Incense seals (or incense stamps)
even they are not as good as the burnt- These are a type of openwork mold
out bottoms of earthenware pots; these used to stamp patterns for powdered
can be ground into very thin plates, Incense rack/rest incense. In the Catalogue of Incense,
which make excellent partitions to This is a rack for temporarily plac-
Hong Chu says, “Incense seals are
burn incense on.” Personally, I find ing tools such as the incense spoon,
carved out of wood and are used for
that earthenware plates made from the scoop or poker during the process of
making patterns with the incense pow-
bottoms of ruined cooking pots still burning the incense. (This can be a
der. The patterns are characters in the
have cooking smells lingering in them; stand or rest as well.)
zhuanwen seal script style. This type of
only pottery fragments fired in a kiln incense is often burned at banquets or
at a very high temperature are suitable Charcoal dish before a statue of the Buddha. Many of
to use as fire partitions for incense, A shallow dish for holding the in- these seals can reach two or three feet
as only after this will they be pure cense charcoal. It often has a layer of in diameter.” The “incense powder”
and odorless. As for jade, it tends to mesh at the bottom to better ventilate referred to in the passage means pow-
crack if the temperature gets too high. the hot charcoal. dered incense. It is sprinkled into the
32
Extracting
Incense
How to Cut Aloeswood for Incense Ceremony
33
Incense & Tea
The Paring Method
This method involves scraping the surface of the aloeswood with a knife in the same direction as the grain to pare off
thin slices of varying sizes. It is the most common method of extracting aloeswood incense; however, incense extracted using
this method doesn’t give off fragrance very effectively. This is because the ribbons of aloeswood that are pared off using this
technique will be slightly curled, with a curved surface. When a piece of incense in this shape is placed on the incense plate
and heated, only part of its surface will be in contact with the incense plate—it’s not possible to lay it flat so that it heats
evenly, so you don’t get the full effect of the fragrance.
Pros:
香 An easy and convenient method of incense extraction.
Cons:
香 Less effective at releasing the fragrance of the incense.
削取法
Pros:
香 Only a small amount is needed
If using high-quality incense like aloeswood, qinan or similar, each use only requires as little as 0.02 grams of incense.
When activated using the heated incense method, even such a small quantity of incense will release a strong enough
fragrance for the participants to enjoy. In other words, using the scraping extraction technique and the heating method,
a one-gram piece of qinan can provide about fifty incense sessions!
Cons:
香 The incense fragments are extremely light
This means that in the process of enjoying the incense, if you are not careful enough when smelling it or there is a wind
or draft in your surroundings, the incense fragments can easily be blown off the incense plate and scattered onto the
ash of the burner.
36
Incense & Tea
The Slicing Method
This incense extraction method is quite common in Japan. It involves using a knife or small saw to cut aloeswood or
sandalwood incense into thin slices of less than a square centimeter in size. When you’re ready to use them, you can simply
place a slice of incense onto the incense plate using an incense spoon and heat it.
Pros:
香 It’s easy to use
Some incense shops in Japan will have specialized artisans slice up the aloeswood incense before putting it in bags to
sell. People can simply go and buy some pre-sliced aloeswood incense and use it straight away.
Cons:
香. A larger quantity of incense is needed
Compared to the other two methods outlined above, larger quantities are needed when using incense prepared using
the slicing method.
切片法
38
Incense is
Destiny
茶人: Chen Yuting (陳郁婷)
39
Incense & Tea
身
淨
的
心
反
靈
映
在
香
氣
Incense & Tea
With these steps, you have com- to make sure that the charcoal flame My teacher, Tsai Yizhe, once point-
pleted one “smelling” action. Each is well ventilated once it is placed into ed out to me that the words “burner,
time the incense is passed round, you the burner and doesn’t go out. bottle and box” (lu, ping, he; 爐瓶盒)
may smell it a maximum of three times Another example is tending the in Chinese sound almost the same as
before passing it along to the next per- flame once you have lit the charcoal. a phrase that approximately means
son. Depending on the host’s skill with It’s important to have a good grasp of “peaceful” or “gentle” (ru pinghe, 如
the incense and the time available, you this; if you place the charcoal in the 平和). What this tells us is that when
may be able to pass the incense around burner too early, before the flame has we are preparing for an incense session,
several times, appreciating the way the had the chance to mature, it’s likely to we must use our tools to remind our-
fragrance evolves throughout the ses- be extinguished. If you put it in too selves that our heart must be calm, our
sion. late, it can mean that you only have a movements slow and steady; we must
The process of offering and smell- very short time to smell the incense, or let go of any irritability so that both
ing the incense looks more or less sim- even that the charcoal burns out com- body and mind are smooth and steady.
ilar to the way it’s done at streetside pletely before you’ve had time to place Thus we can influence those around
stalls; this is because the basic princi- the incense on the burner. us, helping them enter a state of seren-
ples remain the same. Much like a tea Every step in the process is very ity and harmony.
session, you cannot truly understand important. The method I use, which A slight mistake in any of the move-
the finer details of the whole process involves placing the incense on a fine ments throughout the incense session,
until you’ve experienced it for yourself. plate above the flame, makes use of as one sequence follows after another,
There is a practical element beyond “the trio and the duo” or “san shi li- will render the whole session not quite
theory that can be touched but not ang jian (三事两件)” that have been satisfactory. This is why, before an in-
understood. mainstream since the Ming (1368– cense session, I always make sure that
For example, the process of arrang- 1644) and Qing (1644–1911) dynas- both I and the incense tools are clean
ing the ash is a bit like a farmer tilling ties: the “trio” is composed of an in- and tidy, and that I’ve prepared a suit-
the fields. The farmer must carefully cense burner, incense “bottle” (a sort able incense that does not contain any
remove any stones or weeds from the of jar for holding utensils) and incense overly strong perfumes or essences.
field in order to have a successful har- box, while the “duo” denotes the in- Everything must be ready and in its
vest after the crops are planted; simi- cense chopsticks and incense sweeper proper place. This way, I know I won’t
larly, the ash must be loosened evenly that are stuck into the incense “bottle.” be flustered or unsettled due to insuffi-
cient preparation.
Good incense is just like a person:
when you come upon each other, a
smile will rise from the depths of your
heart—words are unnecessary. When
you find a good incense, you will be
able to smell it several times. When ap-
preciating incense, I divide the session
into three phases: “initial exploration,”
“taking another look” and “third ex-
amination.” This is called “three-step
incense smelling.” The basic point of
these three phases is to analyze and un-
derstand the scent families and charac-
teristics of different types of incense,
but the deeper meaning is self-reflec-
tion and self-awareness. These three
stages of smelling incense can be re-
alized within one incense session, or
across three separate sessions. Many of
the specifics of each session are things
that must be put into practice in real
life, so I won’t go into unnecessary de-
tail here.
It’s important to find the right per-
son to buy your incense from, too—
come across the wrong person and you
might get taken for a ride. This what
we call “the destiny of incense.” May
every one of you come across the in-
cense that is truly suited for you!
Watch all the videos at your own pace, in your own home.
There is no schedule:
pause and take notes, pick up later, learning in your own way!
Head to teahutcourses.com
to sign up & start a more fragrant life
香
道
Voices from the Hut
For this month, we have a special article offering some tea background and then beautiful tea
poetry. We love the poetry submissions when they come in. They are inspiring to read during
or after tea sessions. We would like to encourage all of you to put pen to paper and submit your
ideas, musings, travels with tea or even poems!
If you would like to contribute some writing to Voices from the Hut or have an idea for an in-
teresting topic, you can reach Matthew on the Global Tea Hut app (in the “Voices from the
Hut” section), on Instagram (IG: foldedleaves) or email: [email protected].
We cannot wait to read all the exciting articles to come!
Steeping Poetry
茶人: Evan Meulemans
45
Voices from the Hut
Begin
Pale light of dawn.
A cascade of backlit clouds.
Breath made visible
Life made real;
Full and authentic,
aware and determined.
Creating chance after chance;
countless new beginnings.
Wandering, unhurried
through the vastness
of all that is.
Getting lost and starting over,
time and time again,
The reward of winter.
茶
詩
Soften
I love how you change.
Every passing year
brings about something new.
We soften.
We grow.
We learn to live
in the quiet of our hearts,
in the space of this soul.
From dusk until dawn,
and dawn till dusk,
we rearrange,
shape-shift,
blend,
and come into being.
I am who I am,
and I am always
changing.
48
TeaWayfarer
Each month, we introduce one of the Global Tea Hut members to you in order to help you get to know more people
in this growing international community. It’s also to pay homage to the many manifestations that all this wonder-
ful spirit and Tea are becoming as the Tea is drunk and becomes human. The energy of Tea fuels some great work
in this world, and we are so honored to share glimpses of such beautiful people and their Tea. This month, we would
like to introduce Neil Barrie.
I have been drinking tea for more than half my life, with my
tea journey forming much of who I am today. From an early
age, I drank tea with my family in the English style, but this
quickly developed into a deeper, lasting interest in the beauty
and depth of tea. This culminated in growing tea plants when I
was sixteen, alongside exploring the many varieties of tea that I
could find in local tea shops in Sydney, Australia. Two key events
occurred around this time that significantly influenced my tea
journey—the receiving of two tea gifts.
The first of these was from a Chinese homestay student who
was living with us. She mentioned to her father that I was inter-
ested in tea, and upon his next visit, he surprised me with a gift of
a puerh cake. Prior to this, I had never had the opportunity to see
or feel, let alone taste puerh tea. The qualities of this tea were in
stark contrast to the white, green and oolong teas I had gathered
on my local tea shop adventures. This opened a whole new world
of tea to me, which motivated me to pursue a tea-filled trip across
China shortly after finishing high school.
My aunt gifted me the Book of Tea by Okakura Kakuzō when
I was seventeen, which was my first exposure to the possibility
of a deeper conception of tea and its potential ceremonial as-
pects, beyond just being an enjoyable beverage. This sowed the
seeds that grew and flourished in subsequent years as I began to
cultivate myself and my tea practice. Since then, my connection 茶人: Neil Barrie, Australia/Japan
with tea has grown and developed from a beverage I enjoyed into
a key part of my life, infusing every aspect of my being and my Meeting part of the tea community on two of the Global Tea
approach to all components of my life. Hut Annual Trips, in 2016 and 2017, I experienced some of my
This growing connection was spurred by the realization and favorite tea moments and got to know many amazing tea people.
appreciation of the meditative space that could be created during I had never seen so many people interested in tea in one place.
a tea session. At the time, I found that I needed such a space for On the trips, I was able to create connections with people that
self-reflection and cultivation of mindfulness, and tea was con- share my passion for tea and forge bonds over bowls of tea.
ducive to this environment. Coincidentally, this was also when I Over the course of these years, the practice of tea has slowly
began my physics journey, intertwining my tea practice with the infused into all parts of my life. I am now a particle physicist
mindset with which I explore physics. working to uncover the mysteries of the first few seconds after
At that time, I knew no one particularly interested in tea; the Big Bang, so inevitably most days I spend my time think-
this was a purely solo endeavor. In late 2014, I became aware of ing about aspects of the world well beyond my direct experience.
Global Tea Hut and discovered that we shared similarities in our The tea table provides a touchstone bringing me to the present
approaches to tea, becoming a member shortly after. Through moment, reminding me not to neglect the worldly aspects of my
meeting people from Global Tea Hut and reading the magazine, I mind. Every morning I have tea to align myself for the day, which
realized the importance of service in a tea practice. Having never helps prime my mind for this work, putting me in the receptive
served tea to anyone but my mum some years prior, the idea of mental state conducive to good physics insight and communi-
service was a daunting proposition, but necessary for furthering cation.
my learning. Fate led me to discover that the tea society at my Three years ago, I moved to Japan for work and have since
university had fallen into significant decline, with no apparent di- returned to solo practice. Despite this, I always relish the oppor-
rection or leadership. Seeing this as an opportunity to teach oth- tunity to meet and share tea with fellow members around the
ers and myself, I rebuilt the tea society with new goals of learning world. To all those I have shared these tea moments with in the
and community and began serving, gifting, and sharing tea with past, and all those with whom I will in the future, thank you.
anyone who was interested. This was a wonderful experience that Until we next meet, I will drink another bowl of tea with you all
taught me so much. in mind!
49/ TeaWayfarer
Inside the Hut
Coming Soon to Global Tea Hut Magazine
We continue to update our YouTube channel We have already started planning some events
regularly. We try to only post videos that have edu- and retreats for the end of the year, including a return to
cational value, even if a new product is the launching Casa Cuadrau and hopefully some events at Mountain
point. We would love to hear from you regarding topics Gate tea house in Colorado. Of course, we will have
that you would like to see. Any ideas? Also, we try to do to see what happens. This may all get postponed until
some live broadcasts as well, where we can have a con- 2022. However, it is nice to even think about meeting,
versation about tea with all of you guys. We have many sharing tea and hugs and love with you guys. We have
videos planned, but time and manpower are always a a lot of hugs saved up! Do you guys feel optimistic? Is
constraint on the amount of content we can put out at there light at the end of the tunnel? We certainly feel
one time. that way and try to stay optimistic!
We have some new kettles. We have a beauti- We hope you stay excited for Light Meets
ful Cloudstone kettle with a special clay that softens Life. We want to involve you in the planning
the water and a smaller gongfu kettle created by Deng of what we hope you feel is your Center. The
Ding Sou. We also have revamped the brazier to func- more form Light Meets Life takes, the more real
tion better as well. it becomes. Please contact us with ideas about
what you envision for the property and for the
experience at ten-day courses. Perhaps you have
an idea for a type of course you would like to
March Affirmation see when we open. Please share your ideas with
us. We hope to create a whole new calendar and
curriculum for Light Meets Life. And it is your
I forgive Center, after all!
Do I hold grudges? Do I need forgiveness? We hope to make a video soon so you guys
If I do, I should avoid a stance of no re- can come along with us as we explore the area
and look for the future home of our tea Center.
demption for others, offering what I also If we return to any property, we will be sure to
seek. That way, I release and am released. take you with us.
www.globalteahut.org GLOBAL EA HUT
The most aromatic tea magazine in the world! Tea & Tao Magazine
Sharing rare organic teas, a magazine full of tea his-
tory, lore, translations, processing techniques and
heritage, as well as the spiritual aspects of Cha Dao.
And through it all, we make friends with fellow tea
lovers from around the world.