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DARTS

The document discusses different types of darts and sleeves used in garment construction. It describes single, double, empire and cut-away darts, and provides examples. It also outlines the steps to make a dart. The document then discusses set-in and cut-on sleeves, providing examples and descriptions of plain, gathered, pleated, raglan, butterfly/kimono, and kaftan sleeves.

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lalainejimenez235
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157 views4 pages

DARTS

The document discusses different types of darts and sleeves used in garment construction. It describes single, double, empire and cut-away darts, and provides examples. It also outlines the steps to make a dart. The document then discusses set-in and cut-on sleeves, providing examples and descriptions of plain, gathered, pleated, raglan, butterfly/kimono, and kaftan sleeves.

Uploaded by

lalainejimenez235
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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DARTS

A dart is a V-shaped wedge formed into the fabric by sewing from the wide end and tapering toward one
end. It is placed in the garment to give shape to the body. Darts can either be single, double, empire and
cut away.

1. Single Dart is wide open on one side and closed to point on the other side. Darts are usually applied
on shoulder lines, necklines, bust lines, side bodice, sleeves, and waistlines.

Example:

2. Double Dart is wide in the middle and tapers on both ends. It is usually found in dresses, coats,
Jackets, blazers and vest

Example:

3. Empire Dart one end is rectangular in shape from under the bust to the waist and comes to a point on
the hips.

Example:

4.Cut-Away or Separating Darts is used in garments with long darts, with the arm hole passing by the
bust by the bust line to the waist extending to the hip line. This dart reduces bulks in the finisheddart
area.

Example:

There are three simple steps in making a dart

1. Mark the dart

2. Pin

3. Stitch

Make a dart by following these steps:

1. Fold the fabric with right sides together along the line indicating the dart.

2. Pin to help keep the line in place.

3.Cease to flatten the fabric and then baste.


4. Sew dart by following the lines, starting at the wide end and finishing at the point end stitching.

5. Cut the thread.

How to make Collars

1. Place Pelon on top of the wrong side of fabric.

2. Enclose seam the lower portion of pelon (E to E).

3. Start sewing from B to D.

4. Pace threads in between the tip of the collar and stitch twice then pivot, leaving the needle. Then
insert the other half of the thread. Rotate the thread together.

5. Continue sewing until C. Do the same on the other side.

6. Pull out the right sides of the collar.

7 Pull the thread to produce a pointed tip edge of collar

SLEEVES

Sleeves are used to cover the arms. The sleeves for women's garments have different styles and cut.
There are two classifications of sleeves.

A) The set in sleeves. They are sleeves attached to the armhole.

The following are examples:

1. Plain sleeve - eased on the sleeve cap and attached to the armhole but shows no fullness.

Example:

Side View Front View

2. Gathered sleeve this has more gathers on the sleeve cap. This is popular among children's dresses and
formal dresses especially among the youth.

Three Variations

1. Gathered on Top

Example :

Side View Front View


2. Gathered at the Bottom

Example:

Side View Front View

3. Gathered at Top & Bottom

Example:

Side View Front View

3. Pleated sleeve - Box pleats are done in the sleeve cap center and single fold follows on both sides on
the sleeve.

Example:

Single Fold Box Pleats

Side View Single Fold

Front View

B) Sleeve cut in one part of the bodice. Examples, are the following

1. Raglan sleeve- cut from the neckline and cut diagonal,under the armpit. There is no shoulded seam.

Example:

Side View Front

2. Butterfly or Kimono sleeve this has the sleeve cut with the front and back bodice continuously cut
and sewn.

Example:

Front Back

6.Kaftan sleeve - this is a rectangular or straight cut pattern wherein the fabric is folded with selvaged
together and is sewn following the bust and hips measurement only. The shoulder measurement is
disregarded.

Example:
PREPARING THE SLEEVE

1. Cut 1/4 inch of the upper part of sleeve and mark F. This portion will go to the frost armhole of the
blouse.

Example:

Recut the front part only

2. Spread to see the difference.

Example:

3. Make two lines of running stitches and draw the threads to ease the sleeve cap.

Example:

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