Rado Programming Cables
Rado Programming Cables
Notice: This is perhaps NOT the proper FT-7900 cable. If I connect it to the radio and I switch
the transceiver on, the radio transmits. But if I switch the transceiver on while pressing the keys
to enter the setup mode, so to go to setup mode at power on immediately, the cable works
perfectly.
In one of his articles, VK4GHZ described how to make an adapter between the Icom CV-I USB
interface and the Yaesu FT-7800R and other transceivers adopting the same program cable.
Here is the schematic of a Yaesu FT-7800-7900-8100-8800-8900 program cable using a simple and
cheap CP2102.
The VK4GHZ picture shows beautifully how to solder the data and the gnd lead
to the mini-din plug (view from the solderings side).
One specimen of cable built exactly as specified worked perfectly and allowed CHIRP to read from
and to write to a FT-8900R without any trouble.
Another specimen built using a 22 K resistor instead of the proper 10 K one, when plugged to the
radio let it transmit. Nevertheless, if the radio was off when the cable was plugged in and then it was
switched on holding the key to enter in the clone mode, the undesired transmission did not happen,
and the data were read and written perfectly. So, the cable works also using other resistors than 10K,
but with a flaw requiring attention.
This project may be realized also using a Prolific 2303, of course running the risk of encountering
drivers troubles with latest releases of Windows.
Please let me know if this cable works also with other transceivers than those mentioned above.
Build your Own Programming Cable
Let's See...
You purchased a Leixen Mobile and now your ready to start programming it using software. You
now need to make a simple choice. Buy or Build. Here's a simple project that will not only save
you a few dollars, but give you the satisfaction of building it yourself.
You've probably heard the horror stories of the cables with the 'counterfeit' chips that require
backdated drivers, but that doesn't apply here. The solution is to start using a USB to TTL UART
board with a CP2102 SiLabs chip. These boards are available on eBay for around $2.
or
- CP2102 USB UART Board - CP2102 USB UART Board
- 3' piece of 3 conductor wire - 3' Cat-5 Network Patch Cable
- RJ-45 modular plug (8 pin) with 8 pin RJ-45 modular plug
The Project
Let's first take a look at a typical CP2102 board. It's pretty straight forward. USB on one end, a
few connection points on the other.
The diagram below shows the required pin positions. Pin 6 is always the Ground connection.
If you don't have the connector or a crimping tool, another possibility is to acquire a standard 3'
Cat-5 network patch cable, and remove the connector from one end. (or as Eric, G1SLP did, buy a
6' cable, cut it in half and make two).
Trace the wires by color and continuity from pins 2, 5, 6 of the RJ-45 plug, and connect them to
the appropriate pins on the CP2102 board.
If you use the CP2102 in the metal case shown below, you can solder directly to the pins.
Driver
When you insert the new board into the USB port, give Windows a chance to find and load the
new driver. This should take about 30 seconds. When it says Driver Found, you're done.
If Windows is setup to block automatic updates, SiLabs drivers can be found at SiLabs. All
drivers seem to work fine.
That's it...
Three wires from the board, three wires to the connector. The key is knowing proper pin
assignment.
Cosmetic Retrofit
Now, let's say you want to get fancy. Maybe you have an old programming cable in the drawer
that doesn't work, but like most hobbyists, you just couldn't bring yourself to throw it away. Or,
maybe to make it cosmetically pleasing, you decide to buy one of the $3 specials, just to have the
USB case and wire. Here's how you would mount it.
Take a small screw driver and carefully pry the case open from the back where the cable
enters. Once the back is opened, pry the case open evenly around the sides.
Clip off the old connector and insert the wires in the RJ45 shown above.
Retrofit
Due to the slightly larger size, the board shown above may require a Dremel tool, X-Acto knife,
Glue, and some patience, but it can be done.
For a dollar more, I very highly recommend using the 5 pin CP2102 board shown below. It still
has the needed GND, TxD and RxD, but is a bit shorter, narrower, and fits with no issue. It may
cost a few pennies more, but well worth it.
Some come protected with a piece of clear heat shrink over the board so you can see the cool
blinking lights. This plastic can easily be removed.
eBay
- First and Foremost, it works. Now you can program using software.
- Next, it only cost around $2. Add $3 for a cable and case
- Very Important - Bragging Rights. Now, when you go to a club meeting and tell them they can
build their own, just as you did.
I hope you had fun with this project. It's super simple and very rewarding. I've made several and
never had a failure.
Let's See...
You purchased a BTech or QYT Mobile and now your ready to start programming it using
software. You now need to make a simple choice. Buy or Build. Here's a simple project that
will not only save you a few dollars, but give you the satisfaction of building it yourself.
This project uses a USB to TTL UART board with a CP2102 SiLabs chip. These boards are
available on Amazon and eBay for around $2.
The Project
Let's first take a look at a typical CP2102 board. It's pretty straight forward. USB on one end,
a few connection points on the other.
Now it's just a matter of connecting to the proper pins to the 3 Pin Stereo plug.
Ezequiel Welcomme LU9MWE (Argentina) brought to my attention that some models only
work with the original cable (Chinese). Using an aftermarket or homemade cable may result
in the radio cycling or pulsing when trying to communicate with the software. (Pulsing
VIDEO).
The solution is to place a reference to GND in the communication lines. This is done by
adding two 10K ohm resistors. One between GND - RX, and the other between GND - TX.
click to enlarge
Driver
When you insert the new board into the USB port, give Windows a chance to find and load
the new driver. This should take about 30 seconds. When it says Driver Found, you're done.
If Windows is setup to block automatic updates, SiLabs drivers can be found at SiLabs. All
drivers seem to work fine.
That's it...
Three wires from the board, three wires to the connector. The key is knowing proper pin
assignment.
Cosmetic Retrofit
Now, let's say you want to get fancy. Maybe you have an old programming cable in the
drawer that doesn't work, but like most hobbyists, you just couldn't bring yourself to throw it
away. Or, maybe to make it cosmetically pleasing, you decide to buy one of the $3 specials,
just to have the USB case and wire. Here's how you would mount it.
Take a small screw driver and carefully pry the case open from the back where the cable
enters. Once the back is opened, pry the case open evenly around the sides.
Clip off the old connector and insert the wires in the RJ45 shown above.
Retrofit
Due to the slightly larger size, the board shown above may require a Dremel tool, XActo
knife, Glue, and some patience, but it can be done.
For a dollar more, I very highly recommend using the 5 pin CP2102 board shown below. It
still has the needed GND, TxD and RxD, but is a bit shorter, narrower, and fits with no issue.
It may cost a few pennies more, but well worth it.
Some come protected with a piece of clear heat shrink over the board so you can see the cool
blinking lights. This plastic can easily be removed.
Amazon eBay
- First and Foremost, it works. Now you can program using software.
- Next, it only cost around $2. Add $3 for a cable and case
- Very Important - Bragging Rights. Now, when you go to a club meeting and tell them they
can build their own, just as you did.
I hope you had fun with this project. It's super simple and very rewarding. I've made several
and never had a failure.
Let's See...
You purchased a radio and programming cable, loaded the software, and that's as far as you've
gotten. You're fighting with error messages:
- Radio did not respond
- Could not open COM port
- Run Time Error
and Windows (TM) 10 keeps changing your drivers.
Now you do what many owners do. Put the radio in the drawer to be worked on later. This is like
buying a rollaway treadmill and putting it in the closet until the next time you want to exercise.
(NOT gonna happen)
But wait, yours has the company name and logo right on the cable.
- It doesn't matter. Keep reading.
There are a few options available, such as an FTDI cable. It's truly Plug 'n Play, and costs about
$20.
But here's a project that just might solve the issue for around $2. All you need is a small flat blade
screwdriver, a soldering pencil, and a CP2102 board.
CP2102
CP2102 boards can be found on eBay for around $2 and also on Amazon.
Some CP2102 are 5 pin while others are 6 pin. Either will work, but the 5 pin boards are slightly
narrower and may fit better.
Here's How
You will more than likely want to insert the new board inside the original plastic housing. Using
the board shown above, it may require a Dremel tool, X-Acto knife, Glue, and some patience, but
it can be done.
I very highly recommend using the 5 pin CP2102 board shown below. It still has the needed
GND, TxD and RxD, but is a bit shorter and fits with no issue. It may cost a few pennies more,
but well worth it.
Some come protected with a piece of clear heat shrink over the board so you can see the cool
blinking lights. This plastic can easily be removed.
Amazon eBay
For a dollar or so more, you can find the same boards in a metal case.
Driver
When you insert the new board into the USB port, give Windows a chance to find and load the
new driver. This should take about 30 seconds. When it says Driver Found, you're done.
If the driver is labeled CH340 instead of CP210x in Device Manager, that's not a problem. Both
chips are designed to do the same thing.
If Windows is setup to block automatic updates, the SiLabs drivers can be found at SiLabs. All
drivers seem to work fine. The CH340 driver can be found at ChipHead.
If you don't have a generic cable, you can use 2.5 and 3.5mm stereo jacks. Here are the pin outs,
and what Jim's (KC9HI) cable looks like.
- First and Foremost, it works. Take the radio out of the drawer, program it and have some fun.
- Next, it only cost around $2 to save the generic cable from the trash.
- Very Important - Bragging Rights. Now, when you go to a club meeting and someone says they
can't get their cable to work, tell them they can build their own, just as you did.
I hope you had fun with this project. It's super simple and very rewarding. I've made several and
never had a failure. Say goodbye to driver issues.
I am currently building a project that utilises two Tait 8105 UHF radios. I needed to
upgrade the firmware and configure the radios, but couldn't find a programming lead in
the UK for sensible money. After a bit of research, I managed to build my own using
a FTDI TTL-232RL USB adapter and a DB9 Breakout board.
Disclaimer
The DIY cable worked for me without any issues, however anything DIY increases the
chances of something going wrong. I will not be held responsible if you cook your radios.
If in doubt, please contact an Authorised Tait Service Centre or Dealer.
Required Parts
Note- This requires a genuine FTDI USB adapter, as the process requires editing the
settings which seems to be impossible on the clones. I purchased mine from Ebay a long
time ago, and it's since disappeared. I believe it's one of these. Unfortunately the
majority on Ebay today seem to be counterfeit clones.
You can find the FT_PROG utility on the FTDI website. Its for Windows only, however
there's an untested version for Linux here
Once you have installed tool, plug in the adapter into a PC and open the tool. You should
see the following screen-
Hit F5 on your keyboard to scan for devices. Once your device is found, you should see
the following-
In the Device Tree, click Hardware Specific > Invert RS232 Signals, and check the boxes
for TXD and RXD so it looks like this-
Press Ctrl + P to flash the updated configuration to the FTDI chip. To confirm its worked,
press F5 to refresh the programmer and check that the Invert boxes are still checked. If
they are unchecked, you may have a counterfeit FTDI chip that doesn't correctly save
the settings.
Acknowledgements
Thanks to G8KLC for the hint about inverting the signal!