i) Please add the following Exercises and solutions “in page 368 onwards” in chapter 13

(Small amplitude Ocean waves):

Exercise 13.45:
A storm was generated offshore of Visakhapatnam on the East coast of India. The energy
spectrum of surface gravity waves was measured on October 1 at noon and then again on
October 3 at noon. (A) If the peak energy occurs at a period of 12s on October 1, and 6 s on
October 3, What is the wavelength for each of those waves? (B) What is the phase velocity and
group velocity for each of the waves found in A? (C) Estimate when the storm occurred
assuming ‘D’ be the offshore distance same for both cases.

Solution:

gT 2
A) We know from equation (13.31) L  ……(13.45.1)
2
gT 2
So for T = 12S, L  = 1.56 × (12)2 = 224.64𝑚
2
gT 2
For T = 6S, L  = 1.56 × (6)2 = 56.16𝑚
2
𝑔𝑇
B) The phase velocity for deep water waves is 𝐶 = = 1.56 × 12 = 18.72 𝑚/𝑠
2𝜋
𝑔𝑇
For 12 s wave 𝐶 = 2𝜋 = 1.56 × 12 = 18.72 𝑚/𝑠…..(13.45.2)
𝑔𝑇
For 6 s wave 𝐶 = 2𝜋 = 1.56 × 6 = 9.36 𝑚/𝑠
The group velocity is half that of the phase velocities: 9.35 m/s and 4.68 m/s respectively
for 12 and 6 S waves.

C) Given 𝐷 = 𝐶1 𝑡1 = 𝐶2 𝑡2 …..(13.45.3)
Here 𝐶1 and 𝐶2 are the group velocities for 12 and 6 S respectively.
and 𝑡2 = 𝑡1 + 48 ℎ𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠…….(13.45.4)
From equation s (13.45.3) and (13.45.4) we can write: 𝐶1 𝑡1 = 𝐶2 ( 𝑡1 + 48 ℎ𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠)
(𝐶1 − 𝐶2 )𝑡1 = 𝐶2 ( 48 ℎ𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠)
𝐶2 ( 48 ℎ𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠)
∴ 𝑡1 = (𝐶 −𝐶 ) …….(13.45.5)
1 2
𝑆ubstituting the values of 𝐶1 𝑎𝑛𝑑 𝐶2 in equation (13.45.5)
𝐶2 ( 48 ℎ𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠) 9.36 × 48
𝑡1 = = = 48ℎ𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠
(𝐶1 − 𝐶2 ) 18.72 − 9.36
From equation (13.45.3) 𝐷 = 𝐶1 𝑡1 = 9.35 × 48 × 60 × 60𝑆 = 1615680 𝑚 ≈ 1616𝑘𝑚
Exercise 13.46:

A straight coastline borders a uniformly sloping sea bed. Regular waves are observed to cross
the 8m depth contour at an angle of 14° to the coastline-normal, with wave length 45m. Find:
(a) the wave period; (b) the wave length in deep water; (c) the direction in deep water.
Solution:

i) In shallow water ( In shore):

Given 𝑑 = 8 𝑚; 𝜃 = 140 ; 𝐿 = 45𝑚
We know 𝜎 2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘𝑑 …………..(13.46.1)
2𝜋 2𝜋
and 𝑘 = 𝐿 = 45𝑚 = 0.1396 𝑚−1……(13.46.2)
Substituting (13.46.2) in (13.46.1) and using the constant values
𝜎 2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘𝑑 = 9.8𝑚𝑠 −2 × 0.1396𝑚−1 tanh(0.1396𝑚−1 × 8𝑚)
𝜎 = 1.051 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑠 −1
2𝜋 2𝜋 2𝜋 𝑟𝑎𝑑
We know 𝜎 = 𝑇  𝑇 = 𝜎 = 1.051 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑠−1 = 5.978 𝑠
𝑔𝑇 2 9.8×5.978 𝑆
ii) In deep water: 𝐿0 = = = 55.8 𝑚
2𝜋 2𝜋
iii) For the direction in deep water: use Snell’s law
(𝑘 𝑆𝑖𝑛 𝜃)0 = (𝑘 𝑆𝑖𝑛 𝜃)8𝑚  𝑘0 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜃0 = 𝑘8𝑚 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜃8𝑚 ……….(13.46.3)
2𝜋 2𝜋
𝑘0 = 𝐿 = 55.8 = 0.1126 𝑚−1; 𝑘8𝑚 = 0.1396 𝑚−1 …..(13.46.4)
0
Substitutting values of eqn (13.46.4) in eqn (13.46.3): 0.1126 𝑚−1 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜃0 =
0.1396 𝑚−1 𝑠𝑖𝑛14
0.1396 𝑚−1 𝑠𝑖𝑛14
∴ 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜃0 = 0.1126 𝑚−1 = 1.228142  𝜃0 = 17.450
Please note here d is water depth, L is wave length and suffix zero indicates for the deep water
and H is wave height.
Exercise 13.47:

Waves propagate towards along straight coastline that has a very gradual bed slope normal to
the coast. In water depth of 20m, regular waves propagate at heading θ=40° relative to the bed
slope.
(a)For a wave with period 𝑇=8s and height 1.2m at 20m depth, calculate the wave heading and
wave height at the 5m depth contour.
Solution:
Given T = 8 s at both the depths of 20 m and 5 m
2𝜋 2𝜋 𝑟𝑎𝑑
We also know 𝜎 = 𝑇 = 8𝑠 = 0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆−1

Dispersion:
𝜎2 𝑑
We know 𝜎 2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘𝑑  = 𝑘𝑑 tanh 𝑘𝑑 ……(13.47.1)
𝑔
𝜎2 𝑑 𝜎2 𝑑
𝑔 1 𝑔
 𝑘𝑑 = or 𝑘𝑑 = 2 {𝑘𝑑 + }
tanh 𝑘𝑑 tanh 𝑘𝑑

Wave number (k): according to Fenton & McKee (1990).

3/2 2/3
𝜎2
𝑘= 𝑔
[𝑐𝑜𝑡ℎ { (𝜎√𝑑𝑔 ) }] …….(13.47.2)
𝜎2
𝑘 tanh 𝑘𝑑 = 𝑔
= 𝑘0 ………………. (13.47.3)
Refraction (Snell’s Law):
(𝑘 𝑆𝑖𝑛 𝜃)5𝑚 = (𝑘 𝑆𝑖𝑛 𝜃)20𝑚 ….(13.47.4)
Shoaling:
From equation (13.55) we can write: (𝐻 2 𝑛𝑐 cos 𝜃)5𝑚 = (𝐻 2 𝑛𝑐 cos 𝜃)20𝑚 ………(13.47.5)
For calculation of refraction and shoaling the following values are calculated and tabulated
below at first.
𝜎 = 0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1 d = 5m d=20m
2
𝜎 𝑑 0.3144 1.258
𝑔
Iteration 𝜎 2𝑑 𝜎 2𝑑
𝑘= 1 𝑔 𝑔
2/3 𝑘𝑑 = {𝑘𝑑 + } 𝑘𝑑 =
3/2 2 tanh 𝑘𝑑 tanh 𝑘𝑑
𝜎2 1.258
[𝑐𝑜𝑡ℎ { (𝜎√𝑑𝑔 ) }] …….(13.47.2) =
𝑔
1 tanh 𝑘𝑑
= {𝑘𝑑
2
0.3144
+ }
tanh 𝑘𝑑
Kd 0.5918 1.416
−1
K 𝑘 = 0.1184 𝑚 𝑘0 = 0.07080 𝑚−1
𝜎 6.633 𝑚𝑠 −1 11.09𝑚𝑠 −1
𝐶=
𝑘
1 2𝑘𝑑 0.8999 0.6674
𝑛 = {1 + }
2 sinh 2𝑘𝑑
𝜃 -- 400
H - 1.2m
Note: K from eqn 13.47.2 can also be calculated. Also note from equation 13.47.3 𝑘0 can be
obtained
Using the above table refraction and shoaling can be calculated from equations 13.47.4 and
13.47.5 as below:

Refraction: From eqn 13.47.4

(𝑘 𝑆𝑖𝑛 𝜃)5𝑚 = (𝑘 𝑆𝑖𝑛 𝜃)20𝑚  0.1184 𝑆𝑖𝑛( 𝜃)5𝑚 = 0.07080 𝑆𝑖𝑛( 𝜃)20𝑚 
( 𝜃)5𝑚 = 22.60

Shoaling: from equation 13.47.5

(𝐻 2 𝑛𝑐 cos 𝜃)5𝑚 = (𝐻 2 𝑛𝑐 cos 𝜃)20𝑚
(𝐻 2 )5𝑚 × 0.8999 × 6.633 × 𝑐𝑜𝑠22.60 = (1.22 × 0.6674 × 11.09 × 𝑐𝑜𝑠400 )20𝑚 
(𝐻)5𝑚 = 1.217𝑚
Exercise 13.48:
𝐶0
If the wave period is 8 seconds, calculate kd and 𝐶
at 1 and 3 meters depths.
Solution:
2𝜋 2𝜋 𝑟𝑎𝑑
First calculate 𝜎 = = = 0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1
𝑇 8𝑠
Using Wave number (k) equation (13.47.2) according to Fenton & McKee (1990)
 3/2 2/3
𝜎2 𝑑
𝑘= [𝑐𝑜𝑡ℎ { (𝜎 √𝑔 ) }]
𝑔
For d=1 m:
2 3/2 2/3
0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1 −1 1𝑚
𝑘= [𝑐𝑜𝑡ℎ { (0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 √ 𝑔 ) }]
𝑔
2
0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1 2/3
𝑘= [𝑐𝑜𝑡ℎ{ (0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1 × 0.319)3/2 }]
𝑔

2
0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1 2/3
𝑘= [𝑐𝑜𝑡ℎ{ (0.251)3/2 }]
𝑔
2
0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1
𝑘= [𝑐𝑜𝑡ℎ{ 0.126}]2/3
𝑔
2
0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1
𝑘= [7.98]2/3
𝑔

−1 2 −1 2
0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆
𝑘= [63.69]1/3 = × 3.99 = 0.3197
𝑔 𝑔

𝑘𝑑1 = 0.3197𝑚−1 × 1𝑚 = 0.3197

Similarly for d=3 m

2 3/2 2/3
0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1 −1 3𝑚
𝑘= [𝑐𝑜𝑡ℎ { (0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 √ 𝑔 ) }]
𝑔
2
0.6169 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1 2/3
𝑘= [𝑐𝑜𝑡ℎ{ (0.7854 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1 × 0.5533)3/2 }]
9.8
2/3
0.0629[𝑐𝑜𝑡ℎ{ (0.4345) }] = 0.0629[𝑐𝑜𝑡ℎ{ 0.2864}]2/3 =
3/2
1
0.0629[3.586]2/3 =0.0629[12.86]3 = 0.0629 × 2.343 = 0.1473𝑚−1
𝑘𝑑3 = 0.1473𝑚−1 × 3𝑚 = 0.4419

𝐶0
Calculation of :
𝐶
𝑔𝑇
We know 𝐶 = 2𝜋 𝑇𝑎𝑛ℎ 𝑘𝑑 = 1.56 × 𝑇 × tanh 𝑘𝑑
𝑔𝑇
and for deep water velocity as : 𝐶0 = 2𝜋 = 1.56𝑇
So𝐶0 = 1.56𝑇 = 1.56 × 8 = 12.48 𝑚𝑠 −1
𝑔𝑇
𝐶𝑑1 = 2𝜋 𝑇𝑎𝑛ℎ 𝑘𝑑1 = 1.56 × 8 × tanh(0.3197) = 3.859
𝐶 12.48
∴ 𝐶𝑑0 = 3.859 = 3.23
1
𝑔𝑇
Similarly, 𝐶𝑑3 = 2𝜋 𝑇𝑎𝑛ℎ 𝑘𝑑3 = 1.56 × 8 × tanh(0.4419) = 5.18𝑚𝑠 −1
𝐶0 12.48
𝐶𝑑3
= = 2.41
5.18
Refer Exercise 13.36 for another method of computation.

Exercise 13.49:

Describe with relevant equations on i) breaking criterion,ii) breaking condition in deep and
shallow waters,iii) breaker height index, iv)breaker depth index and v)classification of breaker
types basing on irribaren number and figures.
Solution:
𝐻
i) Breaking criterion: ( ) = 0.14 tanh(𝑘𝑑)𝑏 …………(13.48.1)
𝐿 𝑏
𝑈𝑚𝑎𝑥
Breaking occurs when exceeds a critical value
𝐶
𝑈𝑚𝑎𝑥 𝐴𝑔𝑘 ⁄𝜎 𝐴𝑔𝑘 2 𝐴𝑘 𝜋𝐻 ⁄𝐿
= = = =
𝐶 𝜎⁄𝑘 𝜎2 tanh 𝑘𝑑 tanh 𝑘𝑑
𝐻
At breaking : 𝐿 = 𝑐𝑜𝑛𝑠𝑡𝑎𝑛𝑡 × tanh(𝑘𝑑)
𝐻 1
ii) The breaking condition: for deep water : ( ) = 0.14 ≈
𝐿 𝑏 7
iii) The breaking condition in shallow water:
𝐻 2𝜋𝑑 𝐻
( 𝐿 ) = 0.14 𝐿
and ( 𝑑 ) = 0.88…………(13.48.2)
𝑏 𝑏

Where H is wave height, d is water depth and L is wave length

𝐻𝑏 𝐻 −1⁄5
iv) Breaker height index: Ω𝑏 = , Ω𝑏 = 0.56 ( 𝐿 0 ) …………(13.48.3)
𝐻0 0

where 𝐻𝑏 is wave height at breaking and 𝐻0 is deep water wave height.

Deep water quantities extrapolated from height and period measured at one point:
𝐻0 from shoaling:
(𝐻2 𝑛𝑐 cos 𝜃)0 = (𝐻2 𝑛𝑐 cos 𝜃)𝑚𝑒𝑎𝑠𝑢𝑟𝑒𝑑 …………(13.48.4)

𝑔𝑇 2
𝐿0 from: 𝐿0 =
2𝜋
𝐻
v) Breaker Depth Index: 𝛾𝑏 = ( ) …………(13.48.5)
𝑑 𝑏

where H and d are wave height and depth respectively at breaking.

On a mild slope: 𝛾𝑏 = 0.78
𝐻𝑏 𝐻
On a beach slope of m : 𝛾𝑏 = {𝑏 − 𝑎
𝑔𝑇 2
} = {𝑏 − 𝑎 2𝜋𝐿𝑏 }…………(13.48.6)
0
−19𝑚 1.56
Where 𝑎 = 43.8(1 − 𝑒 ) and 𝑏 =
(1+𝑒 −19.5𝑚 )
 vi) Types of Breakers: See Figure 13.12 for details
The Irribarren Number (Aka surf-similarity parameter) is given as:
𝐵𝑒𝑎𝑐ℎ 𝑠𝑙𝑜𝑝𝑒
𝜉 = 𝑤𝑎𝑣𝑒 𝑠𝑡𝑒𝑒𝑝𝑛𝑒𝑠𝑠…………(13.48.7)
√
𝑚
The Irribarren number for deep water is given as: 𝜉0 =
√𝐻0 ⁄𝐿0
𝑚
The Irribarren number at breaking is given as: 𝜉𝑏 =
√𝐻𝑏 ⁄𝐿0
The classification of breakers basing on irribarren number is as below:
Irribarren number Type of Breaker
𝜉0 < 0.5 Spilling breaker
0.5 < 𝜉0 < 3.3 Plunging breaker
3.3 < 𝜉0 Surging or collapsing breaker

Exercise 13.50:
Waves propagate towards a long straight coastline that has a constant bed slope (m) of 1 in
100. Consider the x-axis to be normal to the coastline and the y-axis parallel to the coastline.
Waves propagate at an angle θ to the x-axis. If a wave with period 7s and height 1.2m crosses
the 36m depth contour at angle θ=22°,(i) determine the direction, height and power per metre
width of wave crest at the 4m depth contour.(ii) Explain how height changes between these
depths.
Solution:

Given wave period 7s and height 1.2m crosses the 36m depth contour at angle θ=22°.
Referring Exercise 13.47:
Given T = 7 s at both the depths of 4m and 36 m.
2𝜋 2𝜋 𝑟𝑎𝑑
We also know 𝜎 = = = 0.8976 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1
𝑇 7𝑠

Dispersion:
𝜎2 𝑑
We know from exercise (eqn 13.47.1), 𝜎 2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘𝑑  = 𝑘𝑑 tanh 𝑘𝑑
𝑔
 𝜎2 𝑑 𝜎2 𝑑
𝑔 1 𝑔
 𝑘𝑑 = tanh 𝑘𝑑
or 𝑘𝑑 = 2 {𝑘𝑑 + tanh 𝑘𝑑
}…………..(13.49.1)

Refraction (Snell’s Law): From exercise 13.47 of equation 13.47.4)

(𝑘 𝑆𝑖𝑛 𝜃)4𝑚 = (𝑘 𝑆𝑖𝑛 𝜃)36𝑚 ….(13.49.2)
Shoaling:
From equation (13.47.5) we can write: (𝐻 2 𝑛𝑐 cos 𝜃)4𝑚 = (𝐻 2 𝑛𝑐 cos 𝜃)36𝑚 ………(13.49.3)
Power:
1
𝑃 = 𝐸𝐶𝑔 𝐸 = 𝜌𝑔𝐻2 𝐶𝑔 = 𝑛𝐶
8
1
𝑃 = 𝜌𝑔𝐻2 𝑛𝐶 ……(13.49.4)
8
For calculation of refraction and shoaling the following values are calculated and tabulated
below at first.

𝜎 = 0.8976 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1 d = 4m d=36m

2
𝜎 𝑑 0.3285 2.957
𝑔
Iteration 𝜎2𝑑 𝜎2𝑑
1 𝑔 𝑔
𝑘𝑑 = {𝑘𝑑 + } 𝑘𝑑 =
2 tanh 𝑘𝑑 tanh 𝑘𝑑
2.957
1 0.3285 =
tanh 𝑘𝑑
= {𝑘𝑑 + }
2 tanh 𝑘𝑑
Kd 0.6065 2.973
−1
K 𝑘 = 0.1516 𝑚 𝑘0 = 0.08258 𝑚−1
𝜎 5.921 𝑚𝑠 −1
10.87𝑚𝑠 −1
𝐶=
𝑘
𝑛 0.8956 0.5156
1 2𝑘𝑑
= {1 + }
2 sinh 2𝑘𝑑
𝜃 -- 220
H - 1.2m
Note: K from eqn 13.47.2 can also be calculated or From SPM tables can be obtained. . Also
note 𝑘 tanh 𝑘𝑑 = 𝑘0 from equation 13.47.3

Using the above table refraction and shoaling can be calculated from equations 2 and 3 as
below:

i) Refraction: direction at 4m depth contour (from equation 13.47.4):

(𝑘 𝑆𝑖𝑛 𝜃)4𝑚 = (𝑘 𝑆𝑖𝑛 𝜃)36𝑚  0.1516 𝑆𝑖𝑛( 𝜃)4𝑚 = 0.08258 𝑆𝑖𝑛( 220 )36𝑚 
( 𝜃)4𝑚 = 11.770

ii) Shoaling: height at 4m depth contour (from equation 13.47.5)::

(𝐻 2 𝑛𝑐 cos 𝜃)4𝑚 = (𝐻 2 𝑛𝑐 cos 𝜃)36𝑚
(𝐻 2 )4𝑚 × 0.8956 × 5.921 × 𝑐𝑜𝑠11.770 = (1.22 × 0.5156 × 10.87 × 𝑐𝑜𝑠220 )36𝑚 
(𝐻)4𝑚 = 1.201𝑚

iii) Power at 4m depth (from equation 13.49.4):

1 1
𝜌𝑔𝐻2 𝑛𝐶 = { × 1.025 × 103 𝑘𝑔𝑚−3 × (1.2𝑚)2 × (0.5156 × 10.87𝑚𝑠−1 )} =
8 8
9614 𝑊 𝑚−1

Exercise 13.51:

In continuation of exercise 13.50, if a wave with period 7s and height 1.0m crosses the 4m
depth contour at angle θ=0°, determine the breaking wave height and breaking depth from
their corresponding indices and identify the type of breaker expected.
Solution:

We know from Breaker height index from exercise 13.48 of equation (13.48.3)
𝐻𝑏 𝐻 −1⁄5 𝐻 −1⁄5
Ω𝑏 = 𝐻0
= 0.56 ( 𝐿 0 )  𝐻𝑏 = 0.56𝐻0 ( 𝐿 0 ) and from equation (13.48.6)
0 0
𝐻 𝐻 1.56
𝛾𝑏 = ( ) = {𝑏 − 𝑎 𝑏2} where 𝑎 = 43.8(1 − 𝑒 −19𝑚 ) and 𝑏 =
𝑑 𝑔𝑇
𝑏 (1+𝑒 −19.5𝑚 )
From shoaling we know from equation (13.47.5):
(𝐻2 𝑛𝑐 cos 𝜃)0 = (𝐻2 𝑛𝑐 cos 𝜃)𝑚𝑒𝑎𝑠𝑢𝑟𝑒𝑑
As θ=0°, cos 0°= 1, So (𝐻2 𝑛𝑐)0 = (𝐻2 𝑛𝑐)4𝑚 and given T = 7 seconds
Depth 4m Deep water
H=1.0 m ?
n=0.8956 n=0.5
C=5.921m𝑠 −1 𝑔𝑇
𝐶 = = 1.56 × 7𝑠 = 10.93𝑚𝑠 −1
0
2𝜋
𝑔𝑇 2
𝐿0 = = 1.56 × 49𝑠 = 76.5𝑚
2𝜋

Calculation of Wave height in deep water:

Shoaling :
(𝐻2 𝑛𝑐)0 = (𝐻2 𝑛𝑐)4𝑚  (𝐻2 )0 × 0.5 × 10.93 = (12 × 0.8956 × 5.921)4𝑚
(12 × 0.8956 × 5.921)4𝑚
𝐻0 = = 0.9851 𝑚
0.5 × 10.93
A wave with period 7s and height 1.0m crosses the 4m depth contour at angle θ=0°. Determine
the breaking wave height and breaking depth from their corresponding indices and identify the
type of breaker expected.
 1
It was given constant bed slope of 1 in 100. This means 𝑚 = 100 = 0.01
𝐻𝑏 𝐻 −1⁄5 𝐻 −1⁄5
Breaking height: Ω𝑏 = = 0.56 ( 0 )  𝐻𝑏 = 0.56𝐻0 ( 0 )
𝐻0 𝐿0 𝐿0
Substituting the values:
⁄5
𝐻0 −1⁄5 0.9851 −1
𝐻𝑏 = 0.56𝐻0 ( ) = 0.56 × 0.9851 ( ) = 1.317 𝑚
𝐿0 76.51
Calculation of 𝜸𝒃 :
𝐻𝑏 𝐻𝑏
𝛾𝑏 = {𝑏 − 𝑎
} = {𝑏 − 𝑎 }
𝑔𝑇 2 2𝜋𝐿0
1.56
Where 𝑎 = 43.8(1 − 𝑒 −19𝑚 ) and 𝑏 = −19.5𝑚 (1+𝑒 )
−19×0.01 )
𝑎 = 43.8(1 − 𝑒 = 7.579
1.56
𝑏= = 0.8558
(1 + 𝑒 −19.5×0.01 )
1.317𝑚
𝛾𝑏 = {0.8558 − 7.579 } = 0.8350
9.8𝑚𝑠 −2 × 72
Calculation of db:
𝐻 𝐻𝑏 1.317𝑚
We know 𝛾𝑏 = ( ) or 𝑑𝑏 = = = 1.577𝑚
𝑑 𝑏 𝛾𝑏 0.8350
Calculation of breaker type:
𝑚 0.01
The Irribarren number for deep water is given as: 𝜉0 = = =
√𝐻0 ⁄𝐿0 √0.9851⁄76.5
0.0881 ≈ 0.08
𝑚 0.01
The Irribarren number at breaking is given as: 𝜉𝑏 = = = 0.076 ≈
√𝐻𝑏 ⁄𝐿0 √1.317⁄76.5
0.08
In both cases as 0.08 is less than 0.5 , so it is spilling breaker.
Exercise 13.52:

In continuation of exercises 13.50 and 13.51, further along the coast, waves propagate over the
outflow of a river. In water depth of 14m, measurements indicate a period of 7s and depth-
averaged flow velocity of 0.8 ms–1 against the wave direction. Determine the wavelength.
Solution:
Given d= 14m, Ta = 7 s and 𝑈 = −0.8 𝑚𝑠 −1 (since depth averaged flow velocity is
against the wave direction).
2𝜋 2𝜋
We know 𝜎𝑎 = = = 0.8976 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑠 −1
𝑇𝑎 7𝑠
(𝜎𝑎 −𝑘𝑈)2
We also know (𝜎𝑎 − 𝑘𝑈)2 = 𝜎𝑡2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘𝑑 𝑘 =
𝑔 tanh 𝑘𝑑
 (𝜎𝑎 −𝑘𝑈)2 (0.8976−(−0.8𝑘))2
∴𝑘= =  on solving 𝑘 = 0.1087 𝑚−1
𝑔 tanh 𝑘𝑑 9.8 tanh(14𝑘)
2𝜋 2𝜋
As 𝐿 = = = 57.8 𝑚
𝑘 0.1087 𝑚−1

Exercise 13.53:
Explain diffraction and diffraction coefficient with illustration?
Solution:
Diffraction is the spreading of waves into a region of geometric shadow.
It occurs because there cannot be discontinuities at the boundary of the illuminated zone as
shown in Fig.13.52.1.
𝐻(𝑥)
Diffraction coefficient : 𝐾𝐷 (𝑥 ) =
𝐻0

Fig.13.52.1.

Exercise 13.54:
A harbor is to be protected by an L-shaped break water as sketched. Determine the length 𝑋 of
the outer arm necessary for the wave height at point P to be 0.3m when incident waves have a
height of 3m and a period of 5 s. Assume the depth is everywhere uniform at 5m. Neglect
reflections within the harbour.
Solution:
0.3
The value of diffraction coefficient K is 𝐾= = 0.1…………….(13.52.1)
3
The diffraction diagram for the appropriate approach angle is as shown below
𝑥
From the diffraction diagram for the value of 0.1, the value of = 4. Hence x is:
𝐿
𝑥
= 4.0 𝑥 = 4𝐿
𝐿

The total arm length in meters is : 𝑋 = 𝑥 + 90 = 4𝐿 + 90………..(13.52.2)

Given d = 5 m; T = 5 s and we know
2𝜋 2𝜋 𝑟𝑎𝑑
𝜎= = = 1.257 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 −1
𝑇 5𝑠
3/2 2/3
𝜎2
We know From equation 13.47.2: 𝑘 = [𝑐𝑜𝑡ℎ { (𝜎√𝑑𝑔 ) }]
𝑔
Substituting the values in 13.47.2:
2
−1 2 3 3
(1.257 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 ) −1 5𝑚 2
𝑘= [𝑐𝑜𝑡ℎ {1.257 𝑟𝑎𝑑 𝑆 (√ ) }] = 0.128 × 1.747
9.8𝑚 𝑠 −2 9.8

= 0.224 𝑚−1
2𝜋 2𝜋
We know 𝐿 = 𝐿= = 28.05 ≈ 28.1𝑚
𝑘 0.224𝑚−1
Hence arm length from equation 13.52.2= 𝑋 = 4𝐿 + 90 = 4 × 28.1 +
90=202.4 m.
Exercise 13.55:
What is reflection of a wave, standing wave and seiching? Explain with relevant equations and
figures.
Solution:
Standing waves:
Standing waves occur when two progressive waves moving in the opposite direction in a
impermeable basin as shown in the figure:
The superposition of the two wave profiles is :
𝜂 = 𝐴 cos(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜎𝑡) + 𝐴 cos(−𝑘𝑥 − 𝜎𝑡)
= A[cos(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜎𝑡) + cos(𝑘𝑥 + 𝜎𝑡)] = 2𝐴𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡
This is the equation of a standing wave with twice the amplitude and nodes at every half
wavelength.

The wave velocity is given as:

2𝐴𝑔𝑘 cosh 𝑘(𝑑 + 𝑧)
𝑢= sin 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜎𝑡
𝜎 cosh 𝑘𝑑
Thus Reflection can be represented by the superposition of two equal and opposite progressive
waves to form a standing wave. The standing wave has the same wavelength and frequency but
twice the amplitude. There are surface nodes (i.e. zeroes of η) separated by half a wavelength,
with velocity nodes intermediate between. The point of reflection corresponds to a point of
zero velocity and double-amplitude displacement.
Seiches:
Seiches are resonant standing waves set up in enclosed basins (lakes, harbours, ...). The basin length is a
whole number of half-wavelengths:

1 2𝐵 𝑤𝑎𝑣𝑒 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ 2𝐵
𝐵 = 𝑛𝑆 ( ); 𝐿 = ; 𝑝𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑜𝑑 = 𝑇 =
2 𝑛𝑆 𝑆𝑝𝑒𝑒𝑑 𝑛𝑆 √𝑔𝑑
Exercise 13.56:
Lake Baikal in Siberia contains about one fifth of the world’s fresh-water resources. It is 636km
long, with an average depth of 744m. Calculate length, velocity and fundamental period of
seiching.

Solution:
As per the above figure the fundamental mode of seiching is

The wave length of the seiche is twice the length of the lake : So
𝐿 = 2 × 636 𝑘𝑚 = 1272 𝑘𝑚 = 1.272 × 106 𝑚
Seiche velocity : Shallow water wave velocity = 𝐶 = √𝑔𝑑 = √9.8 × 744𝑚 = 85.4 𝑚 𝑠 −1

𝐿 1.272×106 𝑚
Period of the seiche: 𝑇 = = = 14894.6 𝑠 ≈ 4.1 ℎ𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠
𝐶 85.4 𝑚 𝑠 −1

Exercise 13.57:
What is significant wave height explain with illustration.
Solution:
The significant wave Height is traditionally defined as the average of the highest one third of
the individual wave heihgts (trough-to-crest heights Hi) (i=1,2,3,…), and is denoted by H1/3.

𝐻1 + 𝐻2 + 𝐻3 + ⋯ … . +𝐻𝑁/3
𝐻1/3 =
𝑁/3
Exercise 13.58:

What is average zero up-crossing period?

The individual zero up-cross time Ti is the time interval between two consecutive instants
where the wave elevation crosses the zero level in the upward direction. An average of these
over a certain time provides a useful measure of the real-sea wave period.

𝑇1 + 𝑇2 + 𝑇3 + ⋯ … . +𝑇𝑁
𝑇𝑍 =
𝑁

ii) Please add this reference in page 333 under references after Jeffreys, H (1925).

John Fenton (2020): Coastal and ocean engineering, Institute of Hydraulic Engineering and
Water Resources Management Vienna University of Technology, Karlsplatz 13/222, 1040
Vienna, Austria.
http://johndfenton.com/Lectures/Coastal-and-Ocean-Engineering/Coastal-and-Ocean.pdf