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    FineScale - Modeler - 2010 04 20 22

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    zio_nano
    FineScale Modeler

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    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

    FineScale - Modeler - 2010 04 20 22

    Uploaded by

    zio_nano
    18 views3 pages
    FineScale Modeler

    Original Title

    FineScale_Modeler_2010-04-20-22

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    © © All Rights Reserved

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    FineScale Modeler

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    18 views3 pages

    FineScale - Modeler - 2010 04 20 22

    Uploaded by

    zio_nano
    FineScale Modeler

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    of 3

    Skill Builde..

    by Rick Lawler

    DE
    ASI S,
    step by step

    Getting the most out of photoetched


    metal means turning up the heat

    F
    or some modelers, photoetched metal is the scourge of the Tinning
    hobby. Others embrace the delicate brass bits. Most seem Tinning is the process of adding a thin layer of solder to the parts
    to fall somewhere in between, with a sort of reluctant being joined prior to actually sticking them together.
    acceptance that, at some point, they will use photoetched Begin by applying flux to the surfaces to be joined. Flux dictates
    .
    metal on a model. where solder will stick. I use a small brush to apply flux to the area
    I was one of the latter: Although I could see the potential of where I want the solder to flow, 2.
    using the thin .metal accessories, I could not seem to get over some Next, I cut small chips of solder (a new hobby knife works well)
    of the technical hurdles. . and position them on the flux-coated areas, 3.
    Starting slowly, I built up my experience with photoetched­ Finally, I touch the tip of the soldering iron to the flux near the
    metal parts. Moving on to complex assemblies, I quickly came to solder chips. Soon, the flux will sizzle and bubble. Then, as the sur­
    realize super glue had its limitations. And these shortcomings face temperature rises, the solder chips liquefY. Keeping the iron's
    would make it difficult to take my work to the next level. tip in contact with the molten solder, I spread it over the fluxed
    IfI was to truly embrace photoetched metal, I needed to come area, 4.
    to grips with the soldering iron. Boy, was I apprehensive! In my
    mind, soldering was an advanced technique reserved only for a Assembly
    select few who had "traveled to the crossroads." To join the parts, I apply a little flux to the tinned areas of each
    Turns out, it's not that hard if you take it step by step and prac­ piece. Then, holding the parts together, usually with tweezers, I
    tice. Start with scrap photoetched metal, not a key project. apply heat. The flux sizzles as the solder liquefies and sweats
    between the parts, 5. Removing the hot iron stops the process. The
    What you need result is a tight bond.
    There are a bunch of soldering tools available, some with more fea­ Simple cleaning of the area may be required if the solder has
    tures, but they all serve the same purpose: Melting the solder for a oozed from between the parts. Light sanding with fine-grit paper
    strong, durable join between two metal parts. or steel wool is usually all that's necessary, 6.
    My tools are basic: An inexpensive 40-watt soldering iron, sol­ If small gaps remain, squeezing the parts together while heating
    der, flux, pliers, tweezers, single-edge razor blades, sandpaper, steel the join will eliminate them, 7.
    wool, and an Etch Mate folding tool, 1. To add small parts, tin the attachment point of the detail, 8,

    20 nneScale Modeler April 2010


    SAFETY
    Soldering involves heat, molten metal,
    and chemicals, so there are potential haz­
    ards. It's a good idea to wear eye protec­
    tion. Cotton clothing that covers arms and
    legs, as well as closed-toe shoes, can pre­
    vent burns from runaway solder, which
    melts at more than 350 degrees Fahren­
    heit. It goes without saying that the iron's
    tip is hot. Don't touch it, don't leave it on
    while not working, and use a stand - don't
    lay it down on your workbench. Also, Tools of the trade: Rick's soldering arsenal includes a 4O-walt soldering
    work in a well-ventilated area. iron, solder, and flux, as well as sandpaper, files, an old paintbrush, a
    hobby knife, and tweezers. A folding tool, such as Mission Models' Etch
    Mate, is great for working with photoetched metal.

    Rick paints flux along the mating edges of Aber's Panzer IV turret stowage Rick cuts chips or slices of the soft solder and places them in the flux on the
    _bin. Precise flux placement keeps solder where it belongs and minimizes part.
    cleanup.

    Tinning: Heating the metal part with a soldering iron, Rick melts the solder, The moment of truth: Holding the tinned parts together, Rick heats the join
    then spreads it over the mating surfaces. with the iron, liquefying the solder on both parts and bonding them.

    April2010 W1N1N.FineScale.coln 21
    I ,..,
    !\
    !
    I
    ;I

    Cleanup is easy. Most joins require only simple To take care of gaps, Rick squeezes the joint To add ribs inside a stowage box lid, Rick tins
    sanding to smooth the solder and blend the com­ closed, then heats it to liquefy the solder. the attachment side ...
    ponents.

    ,
    :"
    . J

    !
    .<

    ... then points flux onto the larger port where the rib will attach. After placing the part, Rick touches the iron to the back side of the detail,
    melting the solder and binding it to the lid.

    and brush flux onto the larger part, 9. Using tweezers, position the
    detail solder-side down. Touch the iron to the part; the heat will
    Glossary transfer through the thin brass, liquefYing the solder on the under­
    ANNEALING: Heat treatment that alters the microstructure of a side and attaching the part, 10.
    material, causing changes in properties such as strength and
    hardness. This technique is especially helpful in softening the Practice, practice, practice
    brass to ease bending. There you have it: Soldering in a few easy steps. As with any mod­
    FLUX: Chemical cleaner that removes oxidation from surfaces eling technique, practice makes perfect. Don't train on shiny new
    to be soldered, seals out air (thus preventing further oxidation), kit parts - find some unused or spare parts. Scraps are great sources
    and improves the wetting characteristics of liquid solder. of material to practice every aspect ofworking with photoetched
    SOLDER: Fusible metal alloy; easy to find at electronic, hard­ metal, from bending to soldering.
    ware, and home improvement stores. It is the material that If there is one point to remember, it is to be restrained with the
    joins metallic surfaces. amount of solder you use. The thinnest coating yields more than
    TINNING: The process of adding solder to mating surfaces enough holding power for modeling. Using too much solder results
    before joining them. in buildup, less definition, tougher cleanup, and, worst of all,
    destroyed parts. .
    The good news: If you make a mistake, you can unsolder parts.
    Just add a little flux to the area, heat it, and pu:ll the pieces apart.
    This is especially handy if you should happen to attach a part
    incorrectly or it becomes crooked during soldering.
    I hope I've taken a little of the mystery out of soldering by
    describing these simple techniques. Enjoy the brass bits, and happy
    modeling! FSM

    22 FineScale Modele.. April 2010

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